US1864629A - Manufacture of shoes - Google Patents

Manufacture of shoes Download PDF

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Publication number
US1864629A
US1864629A US420251A US42025130A US1864629A US 1864629 A US1864629 A US 1864629A US 420251 A US420251 A US 420251A US 42025130 A US42025130 A US 42025130A US 1864629 A US1864629 A US 1864629A
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US
United States
Prior art keywords
toe
shoe
last
margin
lasting
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
US420251A
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English (en)
Inventor
Bates Arthur
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
United Shoe Machinery Corp
Original Assignee
United Shoe Machinery Corp
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by United Shoe Machinery Corp filed Critical United Shoe Machinery Corp
Priority to US542853A priority Critical patent/US1864630A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of US1864629A publication Critical patent/US1864629A/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43DMACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D21/00Lasting machines
    • A43D21/16Lasting machines with lasting pincers and toe- or heel-embracing wipers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43DMACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D11/00Machines for preliminary treatment or assembling of upper-parts, counters, or insoles on their lasts preparatory to the pulling-over or lasting operations; Applying or removing protective coverings
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43DMACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D21/00Lasting machines
    • A43D21/12Lasting machines with lasting clamps, shoe-shaped clamps, pincers, wipers, stretching straps or the like for forming the toe or heel parts of the last
    • A43D21/125Lasting machines with lasting clamps, shoe-shaped clamps, pincers, wipers, stretching straps or the like for forming the toe or heel parts of the last with a plurality of pincers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43DMACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D21/00Lasting machines
    • A43D21/18Lasting machines with lasting pincers and straight-acting wipers, also for forming the shank portions of shoes

Definitions

  • This invention relates to the manufacture of shoes, and more particularly to the Shaping of upper materials over lasts or other forms.
  • the invention is herein illustrated in its application to the manufacture of shoes of the welt type, but it is to be understood that in various novel and useful aspects it is not thus limited in its applicabilit While it is the more common practice in the manufacture of various kindsof shoes, including Welt shoes, to perform the side-lasting operation prior to the lasting of the toe and heel ends of the shoe, there have never theless been proposed and utilized heretofore to a considerable extent methods involving the shaping of at least the toe end portion of the upper materials (hereinafter referred to inclusively as the upper) to the contour required for the finished shoe prior to the lasting, of the sides at the rear of thetoe end.
  • the upper the toe end portion of the upper materials
  • the toe end portion of the upper is molded substantially in its final shape before the upper is mounted on a last.
  • the final shaping or lasting of the toe end portion of the upper is preferably effected prior to the lasting of the sides at the rearof the toe.
  • the forepart of the upper at the rear of the toe is positioned and held in close conformity to the contour of the upper-shaping'form or last during the shaping of the margin of the toe end portion of the upper as required for its permanent attachment to an insole, after which the forepart at the rear of the toe is released and the side-lasting operation per formedQIn accordance with the proc'edure I illustrated the upper at the rear ofthe toe 5;
  • Fig. 1 is a view partly in side elevation and partly in section, showing portions of a toer the last and the shaping of the margin'of the upper about the toe in lasted relation to the insole;
  • Fig. 3 is a plan view of the meansshown in Figs. 1 and 2 for pressing the upper at the rear of the toe closely about the last;
  • Fig. 4 is a view of a portion of the mechanism shown in Fig. 3 as it appears when viewed in the direction of the arrow shown on Fig. 1
  • Fig. 5 is a perspective viewof the toe portion of the shoe as it appears after it has been operated upon as illustrated in Figs. 1
  • Fig. 6 is aperspective view illustrating the later operation of lasting the opposite sides of the shoe and simultaneously sewing a welt to the upper and insole.
  • the machine illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2 for lasting the toe end of the shoe by the method of this invention is a machine of the same general character as that disclosed in Letters Patent No. 1,702,397 granted on February 19, 1929 upon an application of W. C. Baxter, and accordingly only such parts of the machine as it is necessary to refer to for an understanding of the invention are shown and will be described in detail.
  • the machine is adapted to operate upon the toe portion of an upper loosely mounted on a last which is supported at its heel end on a spindle 10 and is further controlled by means of a heel rest 12, the spindle and heel rest being movable with the last in directions: heightwise and lengthwise of the last, as more fully disclosed in the Letters Patent mentioned.
  • toeembracing wipers 14 For wiping the margin of the toe end portion of the upper inwardly into lasted relation to an insole a on the last, there are provided toeembracing wipers 14., only one ofwhic-h is seen in the drawings, and co-o-per'ating with these Wipers are clamp members 16 which clamp the marginof the upper upon the top face of the wipers forthe purpose of applying a pull to the toe end of the upper to tension the upper over the last.
  • the machine herein shown is alsoprovided-with grippers 17, only one of which is seen in the drawings, for gripping the upper at the opposite ends of the tip line in the manner disclosed in Letters Patent No. 1,706,474, granted on March 26,1929 upon an application of WV. C. Baxter.
  • FIG. 1 illustrates the positions of the parts at the end of this downward movement of the last, the toe end of the shoe at thistime being pressed downwardly upon a toe rest 22 which in the construction. herein shown is mounted in a fixed position upon a toe rest support'2e.
  • a fluid-pressure device comprising an inflatable rubber pad 26 supported upon a casing 28 which is mounted on the toe rest support at in a manner hereinafter described.
  • the casing 28 and the pad 26 are of'such form and dimensions as to embrace the upper and last at the rear of the toe and to extend rearwardly over the high part of the instep and along the sides of the last as far as the hail of the shoe.
  • the casing 28 is pivotally support-ed at its front end on a pin 30 mounted in a block 32 (Fig. 4:) which is mounted to turn about a pin 34 at right angles to the pin 30, so that a substantially universal joint is provided between the casing.
  • the casing 28 is permit- 4 ted to rock laterally about the pin 30 to adjust itself to the swing of different lasts, and for controlling such movement there are provided leaf springs 36 arranged to bear respectively on the opposite side portions of the casing to centralize it when there is no last in the machine.
  • leaf springs 36 arranged to bear respectively on the opposite side portions of the casing to centralize it when there is no last in the machine.
  • a member 38 having a ball-shaped end positioned in a socket formed in the casing, the member 38 being adjustable to vary the position of the casing, as may be required for shoes ofdifi'erent shapes or sizes.
  • a suitable pump and reservoir for compressed air (not herein shown), although it is to be understood that the utility of the upper-pressing means does not depend upon the use of fluid of that particular character.
  • a pipe l2 Leading from the compressed air supply to a valve 40 is a pipe l2, and leading from the valve to the pad 26 is a pipe i i.
  • the valve 40 herein shown is a hand-operated valve controlled by a hand le. ver 46 (Fig.3); It will be understood that when the valve 40 is inthe position illustrated in Fig. 2 the pipes42 and 44 are in communication with each other through a peripheral recess in the valve, and that when the valve is in the position shown in Fig. .1 this communication is interrupted and .the pipe 44 is connected to the atmosphere through an opening 48 in the valve. 1
  • Figs. 1 and 2 include a trimming knife movable to trim the margin of the upper flush with the upper face of the wipers 14 in the same manner as disclosed in Letters Patent No. 1,702,397. It will be understood that after removing the shoe from the machine the operator will'detach the opposite ends of the strip of waste material from the remainder of the upper,
  • the machine will come to a stop at the endof the upper-trimming operation, and the. operator may then, ifdesired, insert Adjuste Wirestaple s to fasten the upper to the lip of the insole at each end ofthe'tip line, although the invention is not limited to the fastening ofthe upper in this location or in this manner.
  • the forepart of the upper at the rear ofthe toe is left inan unfastened condition.
  • the pause in' the operation of the machine at this point will also enable the 0perator to release the air pressure from the pad 26, so that when the arm 20 is raised the pad will not be unduly expanded.
  • the upper has received-no previous shaping over the last prior to.
  • the heel-end portion of the shoe may next be lasted, for example by means of amachine of the type disclosed in Letters Patent No.
  • a machineof that type includes a gripper 52 for gripping and pulling the upper in each successive lasting location, a channel guide 54 for engaging the lip of the insole to position and guide the shoe, awelt guide 56, a Wiper 58, a needle and a looper 62, all operating in the manner disclosed in that application. It. will be understood that the operation of the machine on the shoe will begin in a locationadjacent to V the heel breast line at one side of the shoe, and
  • the forepart of the upper at the rear of the toe is thereafter positioned in such relation to the last and to the previously shaped toe that there is but little looseness to be taken up in the side-lasting of that portion of the upper and, therefore, no need in that operation for subjecting the upper to anything more than very localized and restricted ten- SlOIlS.
  • That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in pressing an upper at the rear of the toe in close conformity to the contour of a form in the hollow back of the toe and rearwardly along the instep and also rearwardly along the sides of the form as far as the ball of the shoe and while holding it thus under pressure shaping the margin of its toe end portion over the form, releasing the upper from the pressure thus applied, and thereafter lasting the sides of the shoe at the rear of the toe.
  • That improvement in the methods of making shoes which consists in pressing an upper at the rear of the toe in close conformity to the contour of a form over a substan ti ally continuous area extending over the top of the form in the hollow back of the toe and rearwardly along its opposite sides as far as the ball ofv the shoe and while holding it thus under pressure shaping the margin of its toe end portion over the form as required for permanent attachment to an insole, releasing theupper from the pressure thus applied, and thereafter lasting the sides of the shoe at the rear of the toe.
  • That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in applying a pull to the toe end of an upper to tension the upper over, a form and then while holding it under tension pressing the upper at the rear of the toe in close conformity to the contour of the form over a substantially continuous area extending over the top of the form in the hollow back of the toe and rearwardly along the opposite sides of the form,shaping the margin of the toe end portion of the upper over the form while maintaining-the pressure thus applied at the rear of the toe with the margin of the forepart at the rear of the toe in an unfastened condition, releasing the upper from said pressure with the margin of its forepart at the rear of the toe still unfastened, and thereafter lasting the sides of the shoe at the rear of the toe.
  • That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in applying a pull to the toe end of an upper to tension the upper over a form and then While holding it under tension conforming substantially the entire forepart of the upper at the rear of the toe to the contour of the form, shaping the margin of the toe end portion of the upper over the form as required for permanent attachment to an insole while maintaining the forepart at the rear of the toe in "conformity to the contour of the form with its margin in that location in an unfastened condition, releasing the forepart of the upper atthe rear of the toe with its margin still unfastened in that location, and thereafter lasting the sides of the shoe at the rear of the toe.
  • That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in applying a pull to the toe end of an upper to tension the upper over a form and then while holding it under tension conforming the fore art of the upper at the rear of the toe to tie contour of the form, thereafter without releasing the toe portion of the upper from the tension previously applied shaping its margin over the form while maintaining the forepart of the upper at the rear of the toe in conformity to the contour of the form with itsmargin in that location in an unfastenedcondition, releasing the forepart of the upper at ther-ear of the toe with its margin still unfastened in that location, and thereafter lasting the sides of the shoe at the rear of the toe.
  • That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in applying a'pull to the toe end of an upper to tension the upper over a form andthen while holding it under tensionpressing the upperat the rear of the toe .in'confofrmity. to the contour of the ,form in the hollow back of the toe and along the sides of the form, thereafter with-t out releasing the toe portion of the upper from the tension previously applied shaping its margin over the form as required for permanent attachment to an insole while main- I taining' the pressure on the upper at the rear of the toe, releasing the upper from the pressure thus applied afterthe shaping of the margin of its toe end portion, and thereafter lasting the sides of the shoe at the rear of the toe.
  • That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in conforming substantially the entire forepart of an upper at the rear of the toe tothe contour of a last and while holding it thus conformed with its margin in that location in an unfastened condition shaping the margin of its toe end portion in lasted relation to an insole on the last, releasing the forepart of the upper at the rear of the toe with its margin still unfastened in that location, and thereafter lasting the sides of the shoe at the rear of the toe.
  • That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in applying a pull to the toe end of an upper to tension the upper over a last and then while holding contour'of the last in the hollow back of the toe and along the instep and'also rearwardly along thesides of thelast as far as the ball of the shoe, lasting the toe end of the upper over an insole on the last while holdingit at thelrear of the toe under the pressure thus applied, releasing the vupper from said pressure after the lasting of the toe, and thereafter lasting the sides of the shoe at the rear of the toe.
  • That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in applying a pull to the toe end of an upper to tension the upper over a last and then while holding it under tension conforming the forepart of the upper at the rear of the toe tothe contour of the top and sides of the last with its T. margin in an unfastened condition, thereafter Withoutreleasing the toe portion of the upper from the tension previously applied shaping its margin in lasted relation to an 7 insole on the last while maintaining the fore-- part at the rear of the toe in conformity to the contour of the last, releasing the fore part'of the upper at the rear of the toe With its margin still unfastened in that location, and thereafter lasting the sides of the shoe m at the rear of the toe. 17.
  • That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in applying a pull to the toe end of an upper to tension the upper over a last and then While holding it under tension conforming substantially the entire forepart of the upper at the rear of the toe to the contour of the last, shaping the margin of the toe end of the upper in lasted relation to a Welt shoe insole on the last- While holding the forepart at the rear of the toe thus conformed to the last With its margin in an unfastened condition, releasing the forepart of the upper at the rear of the toe with its margin still unfastened in that location, and thereafter lasting the sides of the shoe at the rear of the toe progressively and in the same operation fastening a welt to the shoe.

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  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)
US420251A 1929-01-22 1930-01-11 Manufacture of shoes Expired - Lifetime US1864629A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US542853A US1864630A (en) 1930-01-11 1931-06-08 Machine for shaping shoe uppers

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB1864629X 1929-01-22

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
US1864629A true US1864629A (en) 1932-06-28

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Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
US420251A Expired - Lifetime US1864629A (en) 1929-01-22 1930-01-11 Manufacture of shoes

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US (1) US1864629A (de)
DE (1) DE531050C (de)
FR (1) FR688604A (de)

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Publication number Publication date
FR688604A (fr) 1930-08-27
DE531050C (de) 1931-08-05

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