US1827716A - Detachable shirt bosom - Google Patents

Description

Oct. 13, 1931. w. B. SNOW DETACHABLE SHIRT BOSOM Filed Dec. 22, 1930 Patented Oct. 13, 1931 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE, p

WILLIAM B.,S1\T W, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO REVERSIBLE COIILAR COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MASSACHUSETTS DETACHABLE SHIRT BOSOM Application filed December 22, 1930. Serial No. 503,990.

This invention relates to. detachable or false shirt bosom fronts of the so-called dickey type and consists in a bosom structure designed to be rendered more adaptable in its capacity-to fit and lie smoothly on the person of the wearer with an improved external appearance and resembling in its fit and appearance a bosom which forms an integral part of a full shirt garment.

In the illustrated embodiment of the invention thebosom is made from a blank cut from a composite sheet of material. The latter may be formed of a paper or cardboard backing having a measure of inherent stiffness, to the face of which there has been affixed a facing of cotton or other cloth. After the sheetis formed it is subsequently treated to impart a certain measure of flexibility, so that when formed intothecompleted bosom the latter tends normally to assume a flat and smoothposition on the chest of the wearer,

7 but if forced out of its normal fiat condition, dueto the shape of'the wearer'to whom it must be fitted, it still-preserves a smooth conas tour without any substantial tendency to buckle, crease or fold, and readily yields to adapt itself to the required contour. The adaptability of the bosom to different shapes of wearers, while still preserving a smooth,

3o pleasing appearance, 'may be" further increased by forming a longitudinal pleat or fold inthe bosom as completed, and may be further'increased by providing a longitudinal slit' or opening within and concealed by thepleat or fold, both of which factors further permit the bosom to yield transversely Without, however, destroying its smooth appearance. I I

This and other objects of the invention will be best understood by reference to the following description when taken in connection with the accompanying illustration of one specifi'cjembodiment thereof, while its scope will be more particularly pointed out in" the appended claims. 1

In the drawings:

Fig.1:isa' front View of a-flat blank as it is cutifromthe composite sheet;

F ig.12 is- .azfront viewof the completed bosomqformedFfromtheblanksheet in Fig. 1,

having a neckband permanently attached thereto;

Fig. 3 is a side elevation of the completed bosom shown in Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 is a cross section taken transversely through the bosom;

Fig. 5 is a detail showing the neckband Fig. 6 is an enlarged detail showing a portion of the bosom front formed from the composite sheet after the latter has been treated, the cloth facing beingremoved froma portion of the sheet to show the underlying backing; and

Fig. 7 is a section on an enlarged. and exaggerated scale, taken on the line 7-7 in Fig. 6, transversely to the scorings or indentations which are formed in thecloth facing and underlying paper backing.

Referringcto the drawings and to the illustrative embodiment of the invention, for the composite sheet a backing 11 is em loyed which I refer to as paper, but is pre erably: relatively heavy paper or light cardboard.- That is tosay, the backing should be relatively thin but with a certain measure ofinherent stiffness. For this purpose I have found a paper, sold under the trade name of Index Bristol, well suited. For the cloth facing 13 a plain, medium grade of whiteunpatterned cotton cloth is preferably selected and the cloth then permanently affixed to the paper sheetwith the aid of a starch or other adhesive. This operation: may be performed manually or may be carried out in any one of the ordinary coating machines.

The composite sheet thus formed having a paper backing and a plain, unpatterned white cloth facing, is then subjected to an operation which produces on the outer. face of the cloth I a distinctive pattern butat the same time impresses into the inner or cloth-faced surface of the papera series ofclosely arranged indentations, herein in the form of sets of transverse parallelscoring marks. Any suitable pattern may be adopted 'forthis purpose, such as that shown in Fig. 6 (and shown in part in smaller scale on the bosom in Fig. 2) where there is imparted to the cloth facing a series of transverse, parallel depressions 15, these f jner face of the underlying backing.

7 each by longitudinal areas 17 or strips without such indentations. The efiect of these depressions is to give to the face of the sheet the appearance of having apercale or similar pattern. The pattern, however, is so applied that the depressions forming the pattern in the cloth facing are carried down into placed over the I out-turned slitted areas of the neck portion of the bosom toembrace the the inner or cloth-faced surface of the paper producing corresponding indentations 19', so that the latter, while having a measure of inherent stiifnesmthereby has its structure so modified that it is also given a certain measure of flexibility ,and'capacit'y to bend lengthwise but without the tendency to buckle, crease of fold. This condition isrepresented in somewhat exaggerated form in Fig. 7 where it will be seen that the depressions 15 produce the effect of scoringthein- The desired longitudinal flexibility may be imparted to'thecomposite sheet by running the latter between rollers which are forced together under heavy pressure, the roller conlower depressions therein.

j tacting with the cloth facing having the required raised pattern on its periphery and the companion roller, which engages the-outer face, of the paper backing, havingasmooth surface'andcau'sing the raised surfaces on the first roller notonlyto depress the fabric] butto bite down into. the backing material and to form similar though somewhat shal- From a sheet formed in this manner blanks, such asthe blank20 shown in Fig. 1, are cut outby a-dieor by any other suitable means. In its formation-eachblank is provided with two longitudinal creases or scorings at 21 and 23,=the scoringor crease 23 having an opening in the form of a longitudinal slit 25 of substantial length extending fora portion only of the length of the bosom, herein the scoring and the edge of the neck portion 7 over the upper mid portion of the blank. The

neck portionof the blank is further scored along the curved line 27 and the areabetween isprovided witha plurality of inwardly directed slits 29, the neck portion being further cut away at31'to prevent the forming of a thickened portion at the neckband when the pleat is subsequently formed by folding over thegblank. I

The blank thus formed, and as shown in Fig.1 1, is then creased and folded "on the scorings 21 and 23, the right-hand side of the blank being caused to overlap the left- "handside by the distance between the scorings, forming a pleat as shown in Fig.4, the

' and beneath the overlap, as indicated in Fig. 2. I

overlapping portion being pressed flat, causing theslit, to lie concealed within the pleat .With the tank a thiscondition, the slittecl areasrof the neck portion are bent outwardly and to them is. applied :a :neckband 33, such band.

as shown in Fig. 5. The latter comprises a composite strip of cloth-faced paper, the latter being preferably of somewhat lighter weight than that from which the material of the bosom is composed. This strip is folded along a central line of scoring and is perforated-to form a buttonhole 35. The two sides of the folded neckband strip are sameand' are then permanently secured to those areas and to the bosom, as by stitching,

tionof the bosom, including the 'folded or pleated part, tends normally to assume a substantially fiat conditiomwith the upper I pcrtion curving slightlyinwarddue to the drawin or atherin action or" the attached necla 1 I. V c

Tue structure of the bosom, however,

provides for imparting; a measure of flexibility thereto, longitudinally, due tothe presence of the indentatlonsin the underlying.

backing, and transversely, due to the presence of the pleat and the underlying slit, so that, while normally flat'and. affording the appearance of a bosom attached. to a completeshirt garment, it readily yieldsxwithout breaking, creasing or buckling to adapt itself to. the shape of any'wearerfl,

WhileI have'herein shown and that extensive deviationsand departures may out departing. from the spirit'thereof."

Claims:

described for lllustrative purposes one specific embodiment of the invention, 1t;1s tobe understood be made, from the form hereindisclosed with- 1. A detachable shirt bosom formed of paper ,havinga cloth facing and having im-,

pressed into it a series of closely arranged indentations forming depressions in the cloth I facing and the sub-surface of paper thereunder and arranged toimpart longitudinal flexibility as well asornamentation to the bosom,'one side of the bosom being folded over the opposite side to form a longitudinal .pleat and having an opening or slit extending longitudinally for a portion only of the length' of the bosom thereby to'impart transverse yieldability to the bosom, the slit being within and concealed by the'pleat, and a neckband folded over-and permanently secured to the neck portion of the bosom and holding the latter in a substantially flattened,

pleated condition. l v

2. A detachable shirt bosom formed of paper having a cloth facing and-having impressed into itia series .of closely p'arallelly arranged indentations forming depressions 'in the cloth facing" and the sub-surface of paper-[thereunder and imparting a design and measure of flexibility to the bosom, one side of, the bosom being folded over the opposite side to form a longitudinal pleat.

3. A detachable shirt bosom formed of sheet material folded on oppositely directed,

spaced, front overlapping and underlapping creases forming a longitudinal pleat, the underlapping crease of said pleat having a longitudinal opening extending for a portion 10 only of the length of the bosom and said pleat having stud openings extending through its overlapping and underlapping folds to receive a stud for preventing unfolding of said pleat or gapping of the longi- 15 tudinal opening in its underlapping portion, 4. A detachable shirt bosom formed of sheet material folded on oppositely directed, spaced, front overlapping and underlapping creases forming a longitudinal pleat, the

20 underlying crease of said pleat being slit for a. portion only of the length of said bosom and said pleat being permanently secured in folded position at its neckband end only.

5. A detachable shirt bosom formed of 9:, sheet material folded on oppositely directed, spaced, front overlapping and underlapping creases forming a longitudinal pleat, the underlapping portion of said pleat between said creases being cutaway at the neckband .zo end of said pleat to reduce the thickness and V stiffness thereof, and a neckband attached to and permanently securing the underlapping and overlapping portions of said bosom adjacent said cut-away portion between said jj, creases.

6. A detachable shirt bosom formed of paper having a cloth facing and having impressed into it a series of substantially parallel closely arranged depressions indenting the cloth facing and the sub-surface of paper thereunder and imparting a design and measure of flexibility to the bosom.

7. A detachable shirt bosom formed of paper having a cloth facing and having im- 45 pressed into it a. series of transversely parallelly arranged depressions indenting the cloth facing and the sub-surface of paper thereunder and imparting a design and measure of longitudinal flexibility to the bosom.

so 8. VA detachable shirt bosom formed of paper having a cloth facing and having impressed into it a series of closely arranged,

- parallel, elongated depressions indenting the cloth facing and the sub-surface of paper e5 thereunder and imparting a percale-like design and measure of flexibility to the bosom.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification.

WILLIAM B. SNOW. co

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