US1807552A - Machine for trimming and hemming fabric sections - Google Patents

Description

M -I 5, 1931'. A s. RIVIERE 1,807,552

MACHINE FOR TRIMMING AND HEMMING FABRIC SECTIONS Filed Juhe 20. 1929 SSheets-Sheet 1 May 26, 1931. A. s. RIVIERE 4 1,807,552

MACHINE FOR TRIMMING AND HEMMING FABRIC SECTIONS Filed Jun; 20. 1929 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 Iii M v 1.: .5 E: II. Ill! attomwl s A. S. RIVIERE May 26, 1931.

MACHINE FOR TRIMMING AND HEMMING FABRIC SECTIONS Filed June 20. 1929 5 Sheets-Sheet May 26, 1931.'

MACHINE FOR TRIMMING AND HEMMING FABRIC SECTIONS A. S. RIVIERE' Fil d Julie 20. 192 5 Sheets-Sheet 4 H r 1 4 mm Fm 14 ii 1 1a 6 E [I] 2 6 nHHHH I," I

May 26, 1931. A. s. RIVIERE 1,807,552

MACHINE FOR TRIMMING AND HEMMING FABRIC SECTIONS Filed June 20, 1929 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 Patented May 26, 1931 UNITED STATES PATENT oFFicE ALBERT S. RIVIERE, OF CHICAGO, ,ILIIINOIS, ASSIGNOB TO UNION SPECIAL MACHINE COMPANYyOF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION OF ILLINOIS MACHINE FOB. TRIMMING AND HEMMING- FABRIC SECTIONS Application filed June 20,

The invention relates to new and useful improvements in a'sewing machine for trimming and'hemming fabric sections, and more particularly to amachine for overedg'ing and joining the inturned trimmed edge of a fabric section to "the body portion thereof. It is a well known expedient to fold a fabric section along the line where an inturned edge portion is to be joined thereto "and present the same to astitching mechanism so as to secure the edge of the inturned edge portion'to the 'body fabricby stitches which. pass into and out of the body fabric on the same face thereof, and which cover the edge of the inturned portion.

In this machine of the prior art a trimming device is used for trimming the inturned edge portion which is to be joined to the body fabric. A guide is provided for '20 directing the folded portionto the needle.

An object of the present invention is to provide a machine of the above type with 7 means whereby the trimming devices and the guide associated therewith may be shifted laterally of the line of feed for the purpose of permitting cross seams to pass through the machine without forcing the folded portion'of the fabric sections out of the range of the needle.

A further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the .above type wherein the shifting ofthe trimming devicesand the guide may be accomplished quickly and without-stopping the stitchingmechanism.

These and other objects will in .part be obvious and will in part be hereinafter more fully disclosed.

- In thedrawings Fig. 1 is a front view of a portion of a machine embodying the improvements.

Fig. 2 is a view partly in section andpartly in plan showing the work support, presser foot, trimming devices and the guides and certain partsof the machine associatedthere- Fig. 3 is a view partly in section and part ly in front elevation showing the means for permitting thelater'al shift of the trimming devices andalso the means for accomplishing 1929. Serial No. 372,391.

the shifting of the trimming devices without stopping the machine.

Fig. 6: is a detail .partly in section showing thespring for moving the stationary trimming blade toward the line of feed and the stop for limiting the lateral shift of said blade. 1

Fig. 5 is a sectional view on the line 55 of Fig. 4. r

Fig. 6 is a View partly in section and part ly in side elevation showing the manner of supporting the stationary V-trimming blade and the guide on the shiftable member carrying the same.

Fig. 7 is a view in plan showing moreor less diagrammatically the relation of the guide for the folded fabric portion, the trimming devices and the needle, and in dotted lines the shiftingof the guide and trimming devices to permit the passing of a cross seam.

Fig. 8 is asectional view showing the manner of folding the fabric and directing the 7 a direction at right angles to the line of feed.

There is also a spring attached to the support which normally holds the support moved inward toward the line of feed to the full extent to which it may be moved controlledby an adjustable stop. The movable trimming blade is spring pressed into shearing contact with the stationary trimming blade. These trimming devices are located in front of the needle and are for the purpose of trimming the int-urned edge portion of the fabric section which is to be joined to the body portion of the fabric. In front of the trimming edvice is a guidewhich contacts with the fold in the fabric and directs the same to the needle so that tbc needle enters and emerges from the same face of the fabric section. This edge guide may be positioned so that the needle will pass into and out of the fabric section without going all the way through in which case blind stitches will be formed.

On the other hand it may be positioned so that the stitches will show slightly on the right face of the article.

Associated with this guide is a means for folding the fabric. The guide is mounted on the same support which carries the stationary trimming blade. Treadle controlled means is connected to this support so that the operator at any time during the running of the machine may shift the support for the stationary trimming blade and the guide. This shifting of the support for the stationary trimming blade will cause the movable trimming blade likewise to be shifted as it bears continuously against said stationary blade. Thus it is that when there is a cross seam approaching which would tend to force the foloed portion of the fabric section away from the guide and thus possibly position the parts which are being stitched so that the needle will escape the folded portion of the fabric, the operator shifts the guide to the right as viewed by the operator. This shifting of the support also shifts the trimming devices and it allows the cross seam to pass the guide and the trimming devices without causing the fabric section beyond the cross seam being deflected out of the path of the needle.

Referring more in detail to the drawings, the machine includes a supporting bed 1 carrying an overhanging arm 2 in which a needle bar 3 is mounted for reciprocation. The needle bar 3 carries a needle 4. Cooperating with the needle 4 are suitable complemcntal stitch forming elements for producing an overedge stitch. ()ne of the loopers is indicated at 5. The particular stitch forming mechanism forms no part of the present invention. The material is fed across the work support by the usual feeding mechanism which has not been shown. The line of feed is indicated by the arrow (1- in Fig. 2. In front of the needle are the trimming devices which include a, stationary trimming blade 6 and a movable trimming blade 7. The movable trimming blade 7 is carried by a lever 8" which is fixed to a shaft 8. This shaft 8 is mounted in suitable bearings at the rear of the machine. The shaft is moved endwise in its bearings by means of a spring 9 (see Fig. 3). An adjustable abutment collar 10 is provided for varying the tension on the spring. This spring moving the shaft endwise causes the movable blade to make a shearing contact with the stationary blade. The movable blade is provided with a finger which overlies and continuously makes contact with the stationary blade when said movable blade is in normal position for trimming.

The movable blade is actuated by means of a lever 11 to which it may be coupled by means of a coupling device indicated at 12. The manner of supporting and operating the movable member of the trimming mechanism forms no part of the present invention. The stationary trimming blade 6 is mounted on a support 13. This support extends in a direction at right angles to the line of feed and is attached to the apron 14 of the cloth plate 15 of the machine so that it is capable of a slight endwise movement.

The cloth plate is provided with a slot (see Fig. 5) and suitable screws 17, 17 passing through the slot are threaded into the support. They also pass through a plate 18 and this plate 18 overlies the slot, thus forming means for mounting the support 13 and permitting the endwise movement thereof referred to.

The stationary blade 6 is clamped to the support 13 by means of a clamping plate 19 and a clamping screw 20. This support 13 which carries the stationary trimming blade is moved in a direction toward the line of feed by a spring 21 which is attached to a suitable post 22 carried by the support at one end and attached to a suitable holding eye 23 at its other end. There is an adjustable stop screw 24 mounted in a bracket 25 carried by the depending apron 14 of the machine. There is also a screw 26 threaded into the end of the support which makes contact with this stop. screw 24. The spring will move the support endwise until it makes contact with this stop screw.

The trimming devices, as noted above, are located directly in front of the needle. Directly in front of the trimming devices is a guiding member 27. This guiding member 27 is carried by a bracket 28 which extends down alongside of the support 13 and is secured thereto by clamping screws 29. It is this bracket 28 which carries the post 22 to which the spring 21 is attached.

A fabric section to be hemmed is indicated at F in Fig. 8. The edge portion thereof is inturned as indicated at f. The fabric is folded at f back on itself so that the extreme edge portion of the fabric overlies this fold The fabric thus folded is directed along the guide 27 with the extreme edge portion 7 overlying the guide. It is thus directed to the trimming mechanism. The line of trimming is substantially in alignment with the folded portion f in the fabric section so that the folded portionf will pass close to the moving trimming blade but will not be in any way cut. The overlying portion f. however, will be trimmed. This guide and the trimming devices are so positioned relative to the needle that the needle will pass through the edge portion close to'thetrimmed edge thereof and into and out of the fabric section to the foldf therein, as clearly shown in Fig. 9, wherein the needle threads are indicated at n and the overedge threads at 0.

This support 13 for the stationary trimming blade and the edge guide is also pro vided with a pin 30 which pr-ojectsthrough the plate 18 and is threaded into the support 13. Attached to the depending apron 1 1 is an elbow lever 31 pivoted at 32 to the apron. Said elbow lever has forked arms 33, 33 which straddle this pin 30. The elbow lever 31 is connected through a suitable flexible means 34. either to a treadle or knee shift. When this lever is depressed (see Fig. 3) the forked end will be moved to the right and this will move the support for the stationary trimming blade and the guide to the right away from the line of feed. The spring 9 permits thislateral movement of-the stationary trimming blade carrying with it the movable trimming blade.

When the treadle is released the spring 21 will, of course, immediately return the stationary trimming blade and the guide to their normal set position which is determined by the stop screw 24.

From the above it will beapparent that a means has been provided whereby the operator at will and without stopping the stitching mechanism can shift the trimming devices laterally of the line of feed and also the guide which engages the folded portion of 1 the fabric for directing the same to the stitching devices.

There is at the front of the machine a guide member. 35 carried by a supporting bracket 36. This guide member 35 extends over the fabric sections and underneath the folded back portion so as to continue to fold the fabric section. The bracket 36 is pivoted at 37 to a support 38. This support 38 is capable of adjustment. It is adjusted by meansof a shifting screw 39 and held in set position by a clamping screw 40. The machine is provided with the usual cover plates and guides for guiding the trimmed off strip. It is also provided with a Presser foot 41 which has a laterally projecting portion 42that aids in deflecting the trimmed off strip downward and away from the stitching mechanism. The details of the machine except as to the mounting and shifting of the trimming de- 6 vices and the guide form no part of the present invention'and have only been referred'to in a general way.

Referring to Fig. 7 of the drawings the needle, the trimming devices and the guide for the fold in the fabric have been indicated of the fabric to the left as viewed in this figure provided, of course,.the guide remains in a fixed set position. This shifting of the folded portion of the fabric to the left will tend'to move the folded portion beyond the cross seam out of the path of the needle so 3 that the needle will escape the fold and the inturned edge portion willnot be joined to the body fabric. The operator, however, can quickly without stopping the machine depress the treadle or knee shift which will shift the'guide and likewise the trimming de vices to the right as viewed in Fig. 7 to the dotted 'line position. This will allow the cross seam to pass without causing the portion of the fabric in advance thereof to be deflected out of the path of the needle.

As soon as the cross seam has passed the guide andtrimming devices, then the operator can release the treadle or knee shift and the spring will automatically restore the guide and trimming devices to their normal set position. 7

In forming'this type of seam for joining the inturned edge portion to the body fabric it is usually desired that the stitches shall show very little. if at all, on the right face of the goods. In order to accomplish this,

it is essential that the fold in the fabric shall be directed with considerable nicety to the needle. Ifthe fold is too far to the right, then the needle will go all the way through the fabric section and produce grinning stitches on the right face thereof. On the other hand if the fold is too far to the left,

then the needle will skip the folded portion of the fabric section and not join the inturned edge portion thereto. The normal position of the guide is determined by shifting the stop screw 24 and also the screw 26. When once set then the guide willbe so positioned s that the needle will with certainty enter th fold in thefabric section passing into and out of the same without going all the way through or to such an extent as to show excessive grinning stitches.

It will be apparent, however, that a cross seam. will crowd this fold in the fabric portion away from the guide if it remains in this set position and thus the fold in the fabric in advance of the cross seam will be deflected .i

out of the path of the needle.

By my improved means whereby the trim ming devices and the edge guide may at the.

will of the operator be quickly shifted to permit the cross seam to pass, the stitching of the inturned edge portion may be effected all the way up to the cross seam and across the same.

It is obvious that minor changes in the details of construction may be made without departing from the spirit of the invention as set forth in the appended claims.

Having fully described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. A sewing machine including in combinalit tion a stitch forming mechanism, trimming lcviccs including a stationary trimming blade and a movable trimming blade, a guide for guiding the folded portion of a fabric section past the trimming devices and to the needle of the stitching mechanism whereby said needle enters and emerges from the same face of the folded fabric section, and means whereby said trimming devices and guide may be shifted laterally of the line of feed at the will of the operator without stopping the stitching mechanism to permit the passing of a cross seam without deflecting the advancing folded portion of the fabric out of the path of the needle.

2. A sewin machine including in combination a stitch forming mechanism, trimming devices including a stationary trimming blade and a movable trimming blade, a guide for guiding the folded portion of a fabric section past the trimming devices and to the needle of the stitching mechanism whereby said needle enters and emerges from the same face of the folded fabric section, means whereby the position of said guide and trimming devices may be adjusted late ally of the line of feed, and means whereby said guide and trimming devices may be moved laterally away from their set positions without stopping the stitching mechanism.

3. A sewin machine including in combination a stitch forming mechanism, trimming devices including a stationary trimming blade and a movable trimming blade, a guide for guiding the folded portion of a fabric section past the trimming devices and to the needle of the stitching mechanism whereby said needle enters and emerges from the same face of the folded fabric section, yielding means for holding said trimming devices and guide in set position relative to the line of fee and means for moving saic. trimming dew sees and guide laterally away from the line of feed at the will of the operator without stopping the stitching mechanism.

4. A sewing machine including in combinat on a stitch forming mechanism, trimming devices including a stationary trimming blade and a movable trimming blade, a guide '1' the folded portion of a fabric seethe trimming devices and to the the stitching mechanism whereby d needle enters and emerges from the same face o the folded fabric section, yielding means for holding said trimming devices and guide in set position relative to the line of feed, means for moving trimming devices and guide laterally away from the line of feed at the will of the operator without stopping the stitching mechanism, a stop associated with said yielding means for determining the set position of the trimming devices and guide. and means for adjusting said step to vary the set position thereof.

A. sewing machine including in combination a stitch forming mcchanisn'i, trimming devices including a stationary trimming blade and a movable trimming blade, a guide for guiding the folded portion of a fabric section past the trimming devices and to th needle of the stitching mechanism whereby said needle enters and emerges from the same face of the folded fabric section, a support on which said stationary trimming blade and said guide are mounted, yielding means for moving said support in a direction at right angles to the line of feed for holding said trimming devices and said guide in a set position relative to the line of feed, and manual means for shifting said trimming devices and said guide away from the line of feed at the will of the operator without stopping the stitching mechanism.

6. A sewing machine including in combination a stitch forming mechanism, trimming devices including a stationary trimming blade and a movable trimming blade, a guide for guiding the folded portion of a fabric section past the trimming devices and to the needle of the stitching mechanism whereby said needle enters ant. emerges from the same face of the folded fabric section, a support on nnich said stationary trimming blade and said guide are mounted, yielding means for moving said support in a direction at right angles to the line of feed for holding said trimming devices and said guide in a set position relative to the line of feed, manual means for shifting said trimming devices and said guide away from the line of feed at the will. of the operator without stopping the stitching mechanism, and an adjustable stop for limiting the movement of said support and determining the set position of said trimming devices and said guide.

7. A sewing machine including in comb nation a stitch forming mechanism, trimming devices including a stationary trimming blade and a movable trimming blade, a guide for guiding the folded portion of a fabric section past the trimming devices and to the needle of the stitching mechanism whereby said needle enters and emerges from the same face of the folded fabric section, a support movable at right angles to the line of feed for said stationary trimming blade and said guide, a spring attached to said support and to the machine frame for normally moving said support so as to position said. guide and trimming devices in set position relative to the line of feed, an adjustable stop for limit ing the movement of said support, a manually controlled lever having a forked. end adapted to engage a pin carried by said support for moving said support against the action of the spring to shift said trimming devices and said guide away from the line of feed.

In testimony whereof, I aliix my signature.

' ALBERT S. RIVIERE.

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