US1788809A - Garment - Google Patents

Description

s. F. STEIN GARMENT Filed Jan. 21, 195o Jam.4 13, 1931.

ln/ventola 77 76 55511: atxaxzgw In un um' l Patented Jan. 13,*71931 `fAppinset-ibn eleafJ-enuary 21., reise. Seriali neglia'aaa."

My inventionreiates'- te garments suchias l Waist `sitze :of pants: or' :knickerbockers Itoftit trousers and .knickerbockers that-at the waist are :providedxlwitifi 'elastic Webbingf My obnject in making y.the Waist zen-eirclingnri*portion of. trousers' andlknickerboekers'of elastieweb.- hing.,` in whole or ,in para :is A'totA enjable one any one of seyerai-dierentsize WaistmeinsT ureifnents efadifierent persons-',and'with al1 those Waist sizes. .to `grip L'theji body of the 'i wearer 1 tol support '1t-heu garment fatthe waist y of the Wearer.. The difiiiculty. .fitting lthe garment is principally.- inthe Waist: n ieasurefV ,f

nient. 4Iithe Waist ineasurementof thergari inentfbe too large 'it makes a Very unsightly "ap pearance' and cannot be supported proper@ 'y` "1y and if' too small, of1fcours`e,tit ca nno't'be Wornat ail.` Then the Waist iselastie, as by i invention; all Vthe'difficL'ilat'ies` about.the

Waist *ineasureinents:l arey e1i1ninated.. There .iene-necessity tovrip theffback seam ofthegarin'entto makealterations.kv Indeedsometimes the Waist cannot be made zlar'ger for Want of suiiicientfcloth at the back seam; r g

. 'To enable the .Waistpo-rtionof trousers .Whenfniade Withxeiastic webbing) to talige-care .of `several yWaist measurements, it istneces- :garment .adjacent :the ioweipait ofthe waist .portion is of .non`stretchab'le;l material, and. so must ibesuflicien-tly largexi'n .-cireuinferencel toY utilizelthle largest size, ;to: which the elastic.. will allowtheiwaistfportion vto be:-eX-panded.

Y Thus, ythe vconflicting'requirements of theg' niininiuin circumference; of thee1astic.con taining'waist `portion yto suit` the smallest.

. Waist size. and `inaxin'iur'nenlargennentofthe y non-stretchable part adjacenttheflower edge? of the elastic-.Webbingjtosuitthe'largest Waist size,`v ycreate the problemsof adjustments fto L one another in-k a Way thatV iwi-ii lbe freefroni manufacturing disadyanta'gesiad'disadvanfai 'tages of looks andappearance ofthe Vfinished .pa-rt. the YWaist vportion 'ofthe garment, when sewed or stitched at/lits bottomfed'geto 'theig garment;producespuckers or ,folds orcreases-- -Y so..

These Sprl-chers yare' objectionable Jfori'fa .'nemr y fsight1y. When. the-igarinentif rnistoekfthe v .f

presence of .puckers providesipjociiets which ,dust zaecufmulates; Again,V 4the ipresence-iof 'y fpuciiers orf fdlzdfs isfad'isadvantagein' c L the garment.. It :requires stretching' .to elm-mr. i natethe'puckers or? \-.o'1ds,sothat fabric .er Cioni ,wai ,be egim smooth .de n aie. .ai

f pressir'igoperation..l v theueiect Y steam used Vin' `the" pressing entering t1 4ber'threadfoizering;.whenthe eiasti y 'bing Contains threads 'anjdfstrands oi'ubber,

is injurious .or rrharrnful to ytherubber,v when@ G5 i' i stretchedlfto reinofegthe 'oldsi ,'.By in.A vention; the: formationI or lexisten'ee of puek# ment of velastic webbing at'.the`lwairst.;r1portiion of "the garment is ,-avoided,ar1`d at ith'e Vsmue time all the advantages 'of-'fanrel'asticl'Waist j construction arefsemired,` and they are .secured in a. betteran-d more efficient Way Y;.:air1iil. 'ifnfee'rltain-embodiments'ofmy -..-invention` 'advantages and benefits aresecuredwhichi dolnotf ,f .comeflfronffthejordinary construetioirif L -And niyinventieri: "saves time fin. thesesewin'giv oper# `proceeds.y i x ,"It` .is indispensable `that )the webbing theV Waistshallf; have such. 'elasticitensile v f strength-thatit; may'exert 'suiieientloontracf @tile forcei as f tofgriip Vthe body of the, wearer with enough force Vto' securely. suspendf'the Ji'rn kerbool'ers, .which faire' faptfto slip# at thev Waist,

hands of the wearer thfr :rinff his pockets;l

. .l i, .i Y YTheggeiastie'webbing hayingif-thati force,

As commonly.Constructed,theeiastic band y.er webbing Whichnconstitutesj -infwholeorin puckersin [the garmentclothi to :which i attached; .unless i' that action: iss feontrolilged' 1" l Lprevented gas, byrlny- .inventiom Whi hiIf fsecresuieientgripping strength, in :the

ation when the stitching-'at the Waistfportion;

so fterfe're with the kconti'nuo'us sewingfpenation..

,When @puekerswarefrpresent they."`rnustI be 1 smoothed outbytheoperator asthegsewing l.

erase@and;.pretentiousqfpmkeengby i f .f l

strength'.V The elastic webbing shown in the drawing is the well-known strip of woven fabric which hasrunning through it in longitudinally extending tubes or sheaths,

`threads or strands of rubber. at spaced intervals crosswise of the strip.VV j

I achieve the elimination of puclers or folds or creases by attaching the elastic webbing to the garment cloth in a substantially normal condition, as it leaves the loom as a finished product, or in astate ineiectua'l'to contract said garment cloth at the place of attachment, which results in a construction"` Y j. edge thereorl downward and diminishingor substantially disappearing before the lower edge oftheelastic webbing is reached. My invention .consists in whatever is-describedby. orl is included within the terms orscopevo the appended claims... 'Y .nthe draw'ingsiY Y Y' x i I Fig'. 1 is an elevationof lthe upper or waist portion oit a pair of trousers showing an embodimentof my'inventionein which the elastic webbing is appliedonly to the'baclr part,

parts opened'out; Y

Fig. 2 is a view of the waistband and the garment cloth in a detached relation; Y F ig. Sis a side view of the garment from the outside; f Y .j l i Fig..4'is alike view'applied tothe person;

Figj is a viewvshowing, in an intermedif ateV stage, a. methodV of making the waist portion;

' .Figf is a view a modification; 1 l Fig. 7 isa view .in elevation of the waist Vportion of a pair of trousers on the-wearer in Whichthe entire waist band is of elastic g;

, Fig. 8 illustrates al pair ofkniclerbockers, in accordance with my" invention, andis shown as folded; i r 'Y Fig 1.

at the back part Yof the waistportion of the ltrousers is stretched from` itsvnorinalfposi-f f jtion, or the position'of such'webbing as is "shown inFigs. 2 and lThe illustration of Fig. 1, is Vdrawn Von Aa scale V.of lgth tothe inch. -Theupper waist Vportion-"of the` trousers,as sli'ownin Figs.'` 2 and 3, measures'in its normal position about twenty tive inches, and

as theelasticlis stretched, as` shown in Fig; 1, 675 .it expands to twentynine'inches, so that the and viewed from'the inside, with the front similar to Fig. 3, showing As illustrated in Fig. 1, the 'elastic webbing` variation between the minimum and maximum is approximately four inches. When the front parts of the trousers are brought down from their inclined position as shown in Fig. l, to approximate a horizontal line,

upper edge of the joined back parts is shown t;

in the drawing as a straight line but may vary therefrom slightly. Strips, 14, at their upper edges lextend higher than the upper edge of cachot` thel strips, 10, to allow for a seam by whichalining20, isattached thereto,

.andalso to allow strips, 14, to be foldedat their upper edges andextend above the up-L -per edge oit each of strips, 10. Y

twiiibe seen that the joined strips,f10, as

they extend from seam, 11, and joined at their ends withstrips, 14, iorm a waistband 4for the trousers composed of several obliquely ex-v tending or divergent portions, as shown in l Fig-2. :By comparing the Obliquity or upwarddivergence of the lower edge 'of this waistbandwitli the form ofthe upper edge oicloth A12, to which the'waistband is after- 'wards attached,itwill be Vseen that they differ in degree of Obliquity or divergence. W'hen the waistband is attached to the upper edge o-tlietrousers cloth, 12, the Obliquity of the waistband is reduced by being made to meet the form of the `upper edge of the trousers cloth, 12, andwheiithe job is done, the obliquity ostrips10, of the waistband, which originally. extendedupward is reduced to an approximate horizontal line as that of the upper edge ofthe back parts of the trousers 12, and the obliquity oit strips 14, ismade to coni'orin tothe Obliquity ofthe upper edge of n theiront'parts of the trouserscloth, v12. The diierence oi obliquityfor form of the lower edge-'ot the waistband and the upper edge ofi-the' cloth to whichit is attached, as explained above, results in the upward and inward inclination ofthe j oined'strips 10 of the Y ,Y .n -V waistband Vfrom a point in proximity to the Fig. S)y is a sectional -view on line 9 9 of place where-:they'are joined Yand thus the circumferential extento'f the waist portion of f the trousers is less'attli'e upper edge than at Dfi lili) renders this operation possible'. The edge of the strip second to be sewed on is then stitched along the upper edge ofthe trousers cloth, 12. This results in thetwo sections or strips, 10, being on the outer side of-the waist portion ofthe trousers on the completion of the sewing operation. Thereafter, such strips are turned through 180 so that they extend in proper position upward as a waistband forming extension of the trousers. It is desired that seam 11, of strips, V10,

register with the back seam, 18, ofthetrousers, to'facilitate the folding operation at that point. To assure this, with the least trouble to the operator, I make the combined length of the two strips, 10, shorterat their longer-edge, than the upper edge vof `the .trouserscloth, 12. Thus, in order to make theseams register, theustrip is stretched tof pull seam, 11, over in linewith seam, 18. The stretch occursin the portion of the elastic .covered by the triangles, V16. The bases, 17,

i lof the triangles 16,L at the adjacent portions of thetrouserscloth, 12, prevent contraction .of said cloth, which might otherwise result Vat that point'frorn, the tensionorpull of the stretched-edge of strips,10."-Theresult or effect in this caseis, that the bases, 17, ofthe triangles,16, inasmuch as they need notbe lstretched with the edge of strips, 10, and cannot contract, provide resistance -to the contractile forceof the stretched portions of the elastic strips, 10, and therefore the contiguous portion ofthe cloth, 12, will not be puckered. Vithout the `provision for alining Y seam, V11,

v,withthe center sea-m, 18, it may Voccur lthat the strip', be sewed, with seam 11, beyond the center seam, 18,? whichmay begcausedvby the action-,of the presser footof the-sewing ma- .chine pushingthe Vstrip from `under it.. forward, and the 'operatorwould have to do the work over to aline,the'twoseams.A l

The lining, 19, is stitched or sewed'inplace, so that it covers the vtriangle bases, 17,'and the bottom edges of strips, 10, (seeFig. 5)

v by placing the lining upon the strips, 10,;with

j show the positions ,of-theelastic lwebbings the personofthe wearer..i ,As shown vinF-igs. f .3 .ancl'8, `the elastic webbingextends. atl anV its upper edge rregistering with the Aupper Yedge of theV trousers cloth, 12, andA securing' the same by a line of stitching. Y The lining is then turnedover substantially 3609to place it 'on the inner side ofthe trousers, so it Yhangs downward fronitheupperedgethereof.; Then the strips, `10, are turnedlSOO, as'1before'exY plained, and the trousers clothiitself remain'- ing in effectat no degrees,'o'r-ze`ro.j` -V l VReference'.toFigs. 3,4, 6,4? and v8, will beforeand after the trousers are placed upon angle upward and rearward.V As shown in Figs. 4, 6l and?, asy a result of stretching ness properly fallsover the hips.

The triangles, 16, may also be provided at the side seam, 15. If the elastic webbing reaches to the side Vseam of the waist portion, one such triangle onY each side of the garmentV on the side of the seam towards the back part, lwould be provided, and if elastic strips are attached to the front of the garment as Well as to the back, as shown in Fig. 7, such triangles oneach side of each seam wouldl be present, and will serve the purpose of resisting the tendency of the wearers shirt to draw up and over the waistband, as do the triangles at the back seam, as before explained.

I may Vaccomplish the object of my invention by graduating the tensionof the rubber threads which run longitudinally through v bottom, being progressivelylof less tension,

so that the stretch V in applying the waist'portion of the trousers to the person of the' wearer 'isgreatest lat the upper edge and the webbing to lit the body, it is made to approximate a horizontal .position and the fulgradually diminishes wholly or to an unob-Y Avjectio'nable.degree before'the4 pointof connection with the nonelastic cloth of the garment is reached. In such a case, the fabric portion of the elastic "webbing y'might if stretched'be of uniform width from end to end, and-when theV rubber threads contract such fabricV will be more or less puckered from the top downward. And in the finished garment Vthe actual circumference would be that -of the puckered stateand not the length ofthe stretched outrfabric. Invthis case, the shortening and lessenin'g of circumference of the waist portion'of'the trousers is ef fected by successive s'horteningfof rubber 'Y threads in the elastic Vwebbing. from bottom to top,v or otherwise graduating the tension of such threads from 'bottom to top, and leaving the cloth fabric of the strip without alteration of' its length from bottom to top.- The actual effect, however, is Vto enable stretch to conform to the body to ftake place in those parts ofthe band away from Ythe bottom edge,fvand to have the latter atv all times in a normally relaxed state. Such elastic webbingmay be fabricated, or woven `with severalthreads Lof rubber granulated longitudinal tension. The end Vportions-of such webbing, strip diverge or bend away from each other'froin midlength.

VThe knickerbockers shown infFig'. 8y embody. or comprise features describedY before.l

They comprise a waistband construction sini- `ilartothat showniinlligs. -1 to 1l. 'TliewaistbandV isY foldedl along the seams, 11 and 15,

which extend upward 4and* inward-and are coincident with theback seam, 18, and Vside seams, 13, respectively, Whichzare; the folding lines of the knickerbockers. i The circum- 'erential'extent vof the upper part of the waist portion, as shown intliis ligure, is less than the circumferentialextent of the lower A part thereof, and it may be seen that no puckersor wrinkles are` present lthereat, and a neat, flat state of the garment is secured.V

y Ifdesired, merely for appearance sake, a beltmay be worn with the trousers and the rcludes elastic; webbing having a ribbed sur.'-

ffaee, thefendportions of said webbing being foldedovery at anv vangle over saidV webbin Y theloweriedge of the elastic webbingan "folded over portions being stitchedk to the adjacent non-stretchable material.

In testimony whereof I hereunto, affix signature. Y, c

' customary loops or straps would be provided in this case. But, of course, the belt does notv serve any purpose as a means for holding the garment snugly to the body, because that is done entirely by the. gripping action of the i elastic webbing. v However, shouldv the webbing lose its elasticity or Wear out, then the presence of the loops or straps will.l serve for holding the garment by the belt.

WhatI claim'is: Y 1. A garment of substantially nonstretch-- able material having a waistband portion that is stretchable and sel-contractible, said waistband portion having anj edge attached to said non-stretchable material in a substantially non-stretched condition and havingy contractile Vforce away from the place of attachment suiiiciently far to prevent puckering of said nonstretchable material at the place of attachment.

2. A garment of substantially non-stretchable material having a Vwaistband portion K that is stretchable Aand self-contractible, said;

vwaistfprtion that comprises elastic Vwebbing and a member ldepending therefrom of substantially non-,stretchable material, which inl i cludes attaching the lower edge of said webl. hing to said non-stretchable material in a4, s"

substantially non-stretched condition, ineffectual to pucker the latter at the place `of at-V tachment, and providing in the webbing contractile force away Jfrom the place o-attach- `ment sufliciently far to prevent V.puckerin'g rsaid non-stretchable material `,at-.the place'o attachment.

4. A garment cludes providing elasticwebbing having end yportions that diverge upwardly from a point intermediate said end portions, joining the lowerr edge of said vwebbing in a substantially non-stretched condition tothe Vwaist portion v v*making method which in- K Yof the garment, and causing said webbing to K Y extend upwardly and inwardly.

v 5.l A garment of substantially non-stretch'-y able material havinga waist portion that in- A

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