US1761278A - Woman's undergarment - Google Patents

Description

June 3, 1930. H, EDMOND 1,761,278

WOMAN S UNDERGARMENT Filed Jan. 20, 1950 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 Inveaaion- Harrzielyomflednwnd H M B 1 June 3, 1930. H. 1.7 REDMOND 1,761,278

WOMANS UNDERGARMENT Filed Jan. 20, 1930 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Izweniqr:

y M 30%, Y a/ June 3, 1930. H. REDMOND WOMANS UNDERGARMENT Filed Jan. 20, 1930 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 Patented June 3, 1930 I UNITED STATES vrri'rulq r OFFICE HARRIET LYONS BEDMOND, OF NEEDHAM, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNQR TO THE. 'WII;-

LIAM CARTER COMPANY, .OF NEEDHAM HEIGHTS, MASSACHUSETTS, ACORPORA- TION or MASSACHUSETTS WOMAN'S UNDERGARMENT,

. Application filed January 20; 1930. Serial No. 421,902.-

My invention relates to womens undergarments, and, more particularly, aims to provide a soft, pliant undergarment which is adapted to serve both as a shirt" or vest and as a corset, corselet, or sustaining garment, to confine and mould the figure 1n 9.

- manner heretofore obtained only with a plurality of heavier bulkier garments, or by a garment of garments of relatively firm,

non-yielding fabric.v J

My invention further relates to and embodies a shaped, sustaining soft, pliant undergarment so constructed both in point of form or shape, and in nature of fabric employed that the desired figure-moulding characteristics primarily accomplished by the form or shape and construction, are further accentuated'and enhanced by the constant presence or existence during. wear of a downward vertical pull produced or delivered between the top and bottom parts of the garment. The means by which this pull is produced is also provided, in accordance with my invention, and obviously can be widely varied withinthe scope thereof.

In the drawings illustrating one embodiment of'the invention, by way of example,-

Fig. 1 shows the garment as laid out flatwlse;

Fig. 2-is a plan of a fabricblank which maybe used in forming the arment front; Figs. 3 and 4, on a smal er scale, show the garment in position as worn, Fig.,3 being a three-quarter front view and -Fi 4a right side view with the left le positioned slightly to the rear, of the rig t le Fig; 5 is a sectional detailed view on thd line 5-5'of Fig; 1; g

Fig. 6 is a view similar to Fig. 2 of a slightly modified but equally effective. form v I of fabric blank; and

Fig. 7 is a sectional detail View of the preferred elastic stitching at the seams.

The garment as a whole comprises a front portion (Sand a rear portion or back 7 suitably secured together preferably by elastic stitching, one type of which is shown in Fi to he slipped on over the wearers head. Various materials or combinatlons of materials may be employed in forming the garment, desirably of a soft, pliant character and light in weight as compared, for example, with elastic webbing made of woven "material and the like such as used in corsets,

girdles and similar garments, the desired fabrichaving but limited or markedly restrained elasticity. Preferably I employ, and have illustrated, a knitted fabric, here- 'in disposed with the knitting wales 8 extending vertically, and being so knittedas to have but slight elasticity even in the direction cross-wise of the wales, as contrasted, for example, with rib-knitted fabrics and others commonly used in underwear. I may employ a flat-knit fabric. In some cases I may employ. rib-knitted fabric provided however the feature of constant vertical pull during wear is preserved. It is to be noted that irrespective of the natural characteristics of the particular fibres or yarns used, the construction of the fabric, whether flat knltted, circular knitted or otherwise,

.is of such a nature as to permit a certain amount of lateral contraction when expanded lengthwise. The knitted looped construction illustrated is preferred but other suitable constructions might be used, as for example rib knitting undercertain conditions. 4

.A fabric blank from which the front of the garment maybe formed is shown in Fig. 2. As there illustrated, itis an integral piece of fabric, of the character above referred to, comprising amain or body portion 9 and an upper portion. or bandeau section 10. The main portion 9 is fashioned at its sides to provide'the set-in waist-con- [fining portion 11 which leads downwardly into the portion 12 for moulding and restraining the lower abdomen; and the hips. The lower edge of the garment is desirably formed substantially in themann'er illustrated to provide tab- like extensions 13, 13,

- one at each side of the vertical centre line and connected by the arcuate central portion 14. As shown in Fig. 6, the upp er portion or bandeau section maybe formed as a separate piece-.

The upper or bandeau portion 10 of the garment front, 'in the form as in Fig. 2,is somewhat wider than the main portion 9.

The blank, inthis embodiment of the invention, is' slitted inwardly from its opposite side edges, as indicated .at 15, 15, along gen- --erally horizontal but arcuate lines defining leaving substantially vertical cut-out for-' mations to assist in conforming the garment to the bust. In the form illustrated two such formations are let into each bust portion 17, one extending upwardly from the lower edge thereof about mid-length of the slit formation 15, as indicated at 18, and a the other, as indicated at 19, let in from the upper edge approximately vertically op posite the one first mentioned. It is to be understood, however, that the desired effect may be produced otherwise than by 'gores and that any suitable meansfor accomplishing this purpose is within the spirit and scope of my invention. In fact, the formation of the bust section can be accomplished in] so many different ways, that I wish itclearly to be understood that I have disclosed but a singlelillustrative em bodiment of my invention, to which, however, I am in nowise limited.

- In forming up the blank the edges ofthe respective cut-out formations 18, 18 and 19, 19 are brought together and secured by darts, or other shaping means, as seen at 20, 20 and 21, 21, Figs. 1, 3' and 4. The material of the bandeau section 10 is thus brought in laterally to correspond to the 'width of the upper part of the main portion 9, forming two cuppedor pocket-like members, also indicatedby the numerals'17 in Figs. 1, 3 and-4, the lower edges-of which are seamed to the main portion 9, as at 22, 22,Fig.1.- 'f I I The foregoing described construction provides two cupped or pocket-like members and the fabric of which the garment is composed and which receives the downward pullat the lower end (as hereinafter more fully referred to), cooperates with said cupped or pocket-like members by accentuating or emphasizing the'cupping action in that the downward pull insures the full effectiveness of the described construction by which cupped .or pocket-likemembers are provided. The same is'also accentuated by the upward pull or pull against the shoulder straps.

The lower edges and theinner side edges of these two members of-the bandeau section are further defined and given additional supporting ability by means of fabric strips, preferably of the same material as the garment as a whole and stitched in position over-lying the seams 22, 22. They may be flattened knitted tubes or fabricstrips having their side edges in-folded, as seen in 'Fig. 5, two lines of stitching being employed to retain the strip in that form and to secure it in position. One of these strips, herein the strip 23 at the right, extends from the side edge of the garment front in a curved.

manner across one-half of the bandeau section and thence-vertically upward to the garment top. The other and correspon ing strip 23a terminates at its point of meeting with the strip 23. It is clearly to be understood that I have here described and illustrated one only of many ways of accomplishing this desired object of my invention and that I am not limited to that disclosed; It will be understood from the foregoing description that 'I have provided in a gar-- ment of the character described, at the front thereof, transversely extending reenforcing means at the under-bust part of the bandeau portion to which means the downward pull is transmitted and cooperating. with said shoulder engaging supporting means to assist the bust-molding and uplifting. Obviously the invention is not limited to the construction herein shown for this purpose.

The back 7 of the garment as illustrated is likewise formed of a single piece of material of the character referred to. Its lower edge also desirably is scalloped to provide the tab- like portions 25, 25, Figs. 1 and 4,

preferably spaced at somewhat less distance than the similar tab- like extensions 13, 13 at the garment front. The garment back likewise is fashioned in conformity with the front 6 to providewaist and hip confining portions cooperating with those of the gar-. ment front to suppress and mould the entire figure. v

The garment so formed, in the nature of combined vest, corset and brassiere or bandeau, is closely form-fitting, as seen in Figs.

3 and 4. It (provides extreme trimness but without rigi 'ty, holding-the figure without loss of suppleness to clear-cut firm lines throughout but especially at the waist, the

hips and the bust, but at the latter point acting to uplift and round the bust while supporting it, rather than merel to flatten it. The described form-fitting s ape, whilev highly desirable in itself as co-operating toward the accomplishment of my invention, is one nly of several featursfall of which c'oa'ct together in effecting the entire purpose of iny invention. Particularly does the discal pull, which latter feature is of primary importance.

In order to increase the moulding effect of the garment still further and to aid in theeven distribution of the desired lengthwise pull, I desirably but not necessarily employ a plurality of vertical supporting and confining elements suitably disposed about the garment. In the present instance two such stay-like but pliant elements 26, 26 are located upon the garment front, extending upwardly along slightly convergent lines from the tab- like extensions 13, 13 to or substantially to -the bandeau' section,-

" meeting the latter substantially centrally of the two bust portions. These elements may be termed self-supports, being preferably of self-material with respect to the garment as a whole, that is, they are desirably but not necessarily formed of the same or substantially similar fabric as that of the body of the garment, illustrated as a fine-meshknitted fabric. These elements, similarly as the members 23, 23, may be formed as flattened tubes or substantial tubes, comprising strips having their side edges in turned and so secured, together with the stripsas a whole, by parallel lines of stitching as clearly shown in sectionin Fig. 7 Similar self-supports or confiners 27 27 are shown at the backof the garment extending from the rear tab-like extensions 25, 25.upwardly to or approximately to the garment top. Desirablyalso similar confining and supporting devices are placed at the arment sides, as at 28, 28, these overlying t e seam lines which join the sides of the garment front and back portions 6 and 7. I desire it clearly to be understood that the so-called stay-like elements may be applied in a great many ways and at many different angles, and in certain cases may be wholly omittedor omittedin part.

In the illustrative form of the invention provision is made for the attachment of.

garters at the lower portion of the garment. Herein for the purpose I have illu rated a series of button-holes or like formationstions of the side confiners 28, 28; see Fi s.

3 and 4. Thus arrangement is made or attaching three garters for each stocking, at front, back and sides, respectively, although a different number may be provided on the vertical members 26, 27 or 28, afl'ording adjustability in the point of garter suport. It will- 'be understood that other orms of garter attachment may be employed, depending upon the type of garter, as, for example, a reverse construction, the button-holes being in the garters and the cooperating securing devices such .as buttons, studs. or the like, being upon the garment. Garter-means constitute the preferred way of insuring the lengthwisepull on the garment to which I have repeatedly referred as a primary feature of my invention, while at the same time producing the desired lateral contraction and keeping the garment continually snug-fitting, etc.

Suitable shoulder straps 33 may be provided at the garment top, desirably having their respective ends secured in substantial alignment with the back supporting elements 27, 27 and the similar front'elements 26, 26. It will be noted that these vertical elements thus not only serve further to confine and firmly mould the diaphragm, waist and hip portions, but also act to distribute the garter strain over substantially the entire 'garment, and to carry the major portion thereof directly to the garment-supporting shoulder straps.- The shoulder straps, of whatever type employed need not bepermanentl seished in any suitable manner, as by a folding over and securin of the lower edge of the fabric itself, or by the application to the edge of a; similar fabric, or elastic inserts or any suitable binding. In the present instance I have represented a tape-like binder or edgelining at its inner face at 34, Fig. 1, which is somewhat or suificiently elastic. The binding may be and herein is a bias binding A similar edging 35 may be supplied or the arment top, further increasing the moulding and suppressing effect of the entire garment.

It will be observed that certain features of the invention are also applicable to circular-knit garments, also that the front and rear sections mi ht be formed from a different number 0 fabric pieces than as herein illustrated, the seam lines being conven-v iently located in the line of any one or more of the vertical self-supports, or even 'else- .where.

From the foregoing description taken in connection with the drawings it will be understood that I-have provided a foundation garment of firm pliant material giving roundness and uplift to the bust and sup- .pression or moulding tothe remainder of the figure, insuring to it definite trim lines x but without loss of suppleness and without resort to bulky materials, objectionable side snaps or other fasteners, or other objectionable features, and that a continually snug figure-moulding fit is insured, irrespective of ,the position the wearer normally assumes,

due to the give and take of the fabric. One of the numerous additional advantagesof the garment of my invention lies in the ease with which it may be cleansed, the arters being readily detachable, whereupon t e gar ment may be washed and'dried as'easily and quickly as the usual silk vest.

I desire it to be understood that I have illustrated one embodiment of the invention and have specifically described the same, but

that the invention may be embodied in garments otherwise shaped-and otherwise constructed than that shown, provided the features.of the invention be preserved. The garment illustrated and described is adapted to the present style of dress, but it is clearly to be understood that the garment of my invention may be adapted to other styles of dress without departure from my mvention, as, for example, by cutting down i the back, or in other ways not necessary to enumeratespecifically.

While I have specifically described a deslrable construction of bandeau section, it is to be'understood that the invention is not restricted thereto. Square orosub'stantially rectangular bandeau sections or parts may be employed and the bandeau part or section may itself be made of a plurality of pieces provided the purpose and principle of the invention are retained. The garment may be made without stays and is' so illustrated. 1

Furthermore, secondary additions may b applied to the garment, such, forexample, as skirts, bloomers, pants or the like. I Therefore, the invention is not limited to a garment of the length indicated in the drawings.

Furthermore, the garment may be further reinforced either by additional self-material or by other materlal, asby elastic suitably placedg-without altering the basic characteristics of the invention.

Having thus described one illustrative embodiinent of the invention, it is to be understood that although specific terms are employed, they are used in a generic and de Y scriptive sense and not for purposes of limitation, the scope of the invention beingset forth in the following claims. 7

Claims: Y 1. A fabric blank for the front portion of a womans undergarment compr'ismg a main section havin side edges fashioned to define the waist an hip areas and a bottom edge having tab-like extensions at opposite sides of its vertical center line, the upper section of the blank above said main section being wider than immediately lower porbody portion,

tion, the blank being slitted inwardly from its sides between sa1d two sections, vertical cut-outs in the upper section, at opposite sides of the vertical center line of the blank, one extending upwardly from the upper edge of each of said slitted formations, and others extending downwardly from the top edgev of the blank, in substantial opposition to those first mentioned.

2. A fabric blank for the front portion of a 'womans undergarment comprlsing a main or body section and a bandeau section having a width greater than the adjoining upper part of the main section, opposed slit formations extending in from the sides of the'blank between said two sections, and one or more substantially vertical wedgeshaped cut-out formations in the fabric bandeau section above each of said slit formations. J

3. An entire-body-molding knitted foun- 'dation undergarment for Women, to be worn next to the body and to provide a uniforml distributed molding and form-defining e fect from and includin the bust to and including the thighs; sa1d garment comprising a body portiondevoid of front opening and of materially less diameter at the waist region than at the thigh and bust regions, and being closely andclrcumferentially uniformly knitted throughout so that it is inherently and evenly of markedly restrained lateral expansibility, thus providing. an equal molding and suppressing effect for the entire body below the bust, and a formed shoulder-supported bandeau portion extending transversely across the front top of the of a fabric of similar markedly restrained expansibility as the latter, and including pocket-like sections roundingly to support'the bust, said garment having at the "base of the bandeau portion transversely extending strip-like reinforcements which receive the downward pull of the garment transmitted thereto from the lower garment end, and said garment having 'provisions whereby, during wear, it can be subjected to a constant downward pull, as'by the attachment of stockings thereto, which cooperates with said structure and shape of the garment to increase its said molding and suppressing effect.

4.. A knitted foundation garment for wom-.

Ill

" suppress and mold the entire body of the wearer from and including the thighs to the bust, a bust-uplifting and rounding brassiere section at the top of the garment portion, constructed of a fabric material of similar markedly restrained expansibility and and including two cupped bust portions for roundingly supporting the bust rather than" said" shoulder straps rather than directly through or across said portions, thereby'to' contribute to the roundingly supporting effect of the brassiere section, the said construction of the garment as a whole being such, both in point of said form or shape and of said fabric that said bust-uplifting and body-molding action will be accenuated during wear by a vertical downward pull as by the attachment of garters and stockings at the garment bottom.

5. A knitted garment for" women for wear next the flesh and to serve as shirt or vest, garter-supporting corset and bust-rounding and uplifting brassiere or bandeau; said garment being permanently closed at the front and providing a uniformly distributed, molding-and form-defining effect from and including thebust to and including the 6. A knitted foundation garment for women for wear next the flesh and to serve as shirt or vest, garter-supporting corset and bust-rounding and uplifting brassiere or bandeau; said garment being permanently closed at the front and providing a uniformly distributed, molding and form-defining effect from and including the bust to and including the upper thigh portions, and

for that purpose being of soft, pliant fabric that is of markedly restrained exparsibility lengthwise and transversely; said garment from and including its lower part to approximately the bust portion being so closely and circumferentially uniformly knitted that it is inherently and evenly of markedly restrained lateral expansibility, thus providing an equal molding and suppressing effect for the entire body below the bust; said bust-uplifting brassiere or bandeau portion extending transversely across and constituting the garment top front, being composed of a fabric of similar markedly restrained elasticity, and being provided with shoulderengaging supporting means; said garment having meansatitslower portion, whereby, during wear, it can be subjected to a constant downward pull, said means cooperating with the fabric structure of the garment to increase its molding and suppressing effect; and said garment including front transversely extending reenforcing means at the under-bust part of the bandeau portion to which means the said downward pull is transmitted and cooperating with said shoulder-engaging .supporting means to assist said bust molding and uplifting.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification.

HARRIET LYONS REDMOND.

upper thigh portions, and for that purpose i 1 being of soft, pliant fabric that is of markedly restrained expansibility lengthwise and transversely; said garment from and including its lower part to approximately the bust portion being so closely and circumferentially uniformly knitted that it is inherently and evenly of markedly restrained lateral expansibility, thus providing an equal molding and suppressing effect for the entire body below thebust; said; bust-uplifting brassiere or bandeau portion extending transversely across and constituting the garmenttop front, said brassiere or bandeau portion including two bust-uplifting fabric portions having substantially radial shaping formations extending in from their margins to give them a cupped or pocketlike form, said brassiere or bandeau por tion and the adjacent part of the main section of the garment front having transversely disposed reenforcing means to receive downward pull of the garment transmitted thereto from the lower garment end.

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