US1735399A - Attached collar and method of making same - Google Patents

Description

Nov. 12, 1929, R. HUNTER ATTACHED COLLAR AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Jan. 10, 1928 2 Sheets-Shee Nov! 12, 1929. R. HUNTER 1,735,399

ATTACHED COLLAR AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed 1928 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Pat nted Nov. 12,1929

UNI-Ten STATES PATENT OFFICE RALPH HUNTER, 0! NEW YORK, N. Y., ASSIGNOR TO HALL, H ARTWELL & CO. HQ, 0! TROY, NEW YORK, A CORPORATION 01 NEW YORK ATTACHED COLLAR AND METHOD OI MAKING am *The present invention relates to collars,

and more particularly to collars of the soft shirt-attached type. K

One objection to attached collars, notwith- 5 standing their popularity, has been their tendency to shrink when laundered, with the result that a shirt having an attached collar, after being laundered a few times, is often useless because the size of the neckband is reduced by shrinkage.

In the manufacture of attached collars, the usual procedure has been to manufacture the collars over-size, and as an additional safeguard, to recommend the purchase of a shirt aving a collar at least a half-size larger than one is accustomed to wear, so that afterlaundering, the collar will be of approximately the proper size.

This is objectionable, however, for the reason that when first worn, the collar is unsightly because of its excessive size, and for the additional reason that very frequently the necessity for purchasing a larger size than is ordinarily required in a detached collar, is overlooked.

An object of the present invention is to provide an improved attached collar which will be substantially shrinkage-proof because of the method employed in its manufacture, and

A further object of the invention is to ro- 5 vide an improved attached collar in w ich the band and fold-over top are made u of a plurality of separately cut plies of fa ric,

preferably three or more, but have the ap-.

pearance of a collar made of a single-ply fabric, or a multiple pl inter-woven fabric.

A still further ob ect of the invention is to provide an improved method of making an attached collar which will facilitate its attachment to the shirt, and which when ap plied, will be inherently capable in a substantially unstarched condition of receiving and maintaining a curvilinear state.

I am aware of the fact that it is customary in the manufacture of detached collars to subject the same to a laundering which neces- Application filed January 10, m8. Serial in. 245,753.

which therefore need not be manufactured in sarily results in shrinkage, and I am further aware that some manufacturers subject the entire shirt and attached collar to a laundering process for the pur ose of minimizing shrinkage after the purc ase. This ex ed1- ent has not been generally resorted to, owever, for various reasons such as the expense, and the likelihood of destroying the finish and lustre of the shirt fabrics particularly of mercerized fabrics.

Notwithstanding these practices, however, to my knowledge no one has suggested or considered it practicable in the manufacture of attached collars to subject the same to a laundering shrinkage during the manufacturing process and before the collar is at-- tached to the shirt. This practice has been considered impracticable for numerous reasons, among these being 1) the difliculty of laundering or shrinking the collar with raw exposed edges, such as are necessarily present and (3) the danger of discoloring the collar material, producing therein a different appearance than that of the shirt material.

These and other objections have forced manufacturers generally toresort to the expedients heretofore mentioned, namely, of manufacturing attached collars oversize, and of endeavoring to teach the users to purchase larger sizes than required in the detached collars.

Although the invention in its broader aspects is not limited to a collar of any particular construct-ion, it preferably has to do with a collar, which in construction, is similar to that disclosed inmy Patent No. 1,642 858, granted Sept. 20, 1927, in connection with the manufacture of which the present invention has been extensively employed.

In carrying out the method, the materials from which the collar is formed are first tested with a great deal of care to determine with substantial exactness their action when laundered, and, more particularly, to deterother, substantially the exact or metric relation between their shrinkages is determined over, it is preferre by comparative tests. After the action of the materials when --laundered has been determined, the collar is formed, preferably both as to its band and fold-over top, of a plurality of plies, usually three plies, including an intermediate sti ening ply and two outer plies. This construction is used not only in the fold-over top, but also in the band, and for an intermediate ply a material having a lower coeflicient of shrinkage than the outer lies is employed. More- 3 .that both the band and top shall be of corresponding construction i. e. their interliners have substantially the same coefiicients of shrinkage and the outer plies have the same shrinkage coefficients, and, as to the outer plies, identity of Weight and appearance is also preferred. In select- 'ing these materials, it will ordinarily be practicable to employ for an intermediate'stilfening ply, what is known as commercially shrunk fabric, and for the outer plies, commercially unshrunk fabric, although the coeflicient of shrinkage of each material, as above described, should be accurately predetermined. Under laundering treatment, the outer. plies will, when selected from material having the proper degree of shrinkage as compared to the interlining or intermediate ply, shrink closely and be tensioned upon the inner stiffening ply or interliner, and form a fold-over top in which the outer plies constitute in appearance the surfaces of a mutiple ply interwoven fabric, although they are separate and distinct plies so far as the weaving is concerned. At the same time, in

' the band this result will take place and the precaution of selecting materials having proper relative coefficients of shrinkage will prevent-mis-shaping and maintain the parts in their proper relative position, by causing a uniform shrinkage throughout both the top and band. With some materials it is possible to obtain satisfactory results in the subsequent shrinking process if all of the plies are of unshrunk material and, in other instances, if all of the plies are of shrunk material.

In carrying out the shrinkage process, particular care is exercised to avoid discoloring of the fabric, and such mis-shaping as would render the subsequent attachment of the collar to a shirt somewhat difficult. Preferably, the collars. are shrunk in substantially fiat condition, and thereafter thoroughly dried. Collars made of certain fabrics after the drying step are dampened, and thereafter left to stand or age .for an extended period,

preferably at least twelve hours. After the dr ing period, the collars made of these fabrics are given a preliminary ironing. Thereafter, along with collars which may be attached to the shirt after the drying opera tion, they areattached to the shirt in the manner to be later described, and the final collar ironing is thereafter given, particular care being exercised to iron in such a manner and to leave the collar material substantially the same in appearance as that of the shirt.

In addition to-the method which has been above outlined, the invention also relates to the collar construction, and this phase of the invention, together with the method, will be more clearly understood as the description proceeds in connection with the explanation of the preferred embodiment of the collar which is shown in the accompanying drawings, wherein:

Figure 1 is a perspective of the fold-over top partially completed.

Figure 2 is a cross-sectional view on the line 22 of Figure 1.

Figure 3 is a perspective of the fold-over top completed, and ready for attachment to the band.

Figure 4: is a cross-sectional view on the line H of Figure 3.

Figure 5 is a perspective view showing the first step in attaching the band and fold-over top.

Figure 6 is a view showing the band par tially folded down after its attachment to the top.

Figure 7 is a cross-sectional view on the line 77 of Figure 6.

' Figure 8 is a perspective'view showng the completed collar ready for the shrinkage process.

Figure 9 is a fragmentary perspective view sfiowing the collar partially attached to the s irt.

Figure 8 is a perspective view showing the collar completely attached to the shirt.

' The fold-over top of the collar comprises at least three plies, namely, an interlining ply 10 of comparatively heavy fabric flatly interposed between two outer plies 11 and 12. The interlining ply isformed from material having a relatively lower coefiicient of shrinkage than the outer plies 11 and 12. Ordinarily, theinterliner will be formed of what is known as commercially shrunk fabric, and the outer plies of commercially unshrunk fabric, although in some instances all of the plies determined with substantial exactness, since it has been found that it is not sufficient to proceed with the mere knowledge that the outer bring the outer plies in flat tensioned contact with the inner 1y, will result in wrinkling; and an insufficient diiference between their shrinkages will not produce the desired result. Consequently, it has been found important to employ fabrics having almost exactly predetermined coefiicients of shrinkage. These plies are superimposed with their edges substantially coincident and united by stitching 13 along or following the edges. The three -plies of the top, when thus superimposed and united along their edges, are then turnedto fold over the stitched-together edges, as indicated at 14, on Fi ures 3 and 4. The inturned edges and the b0 ies of the plies are then secured together by a line of stitching 15.

The top member is secured to a band of somewhat similar construction, and which is shown most clearly in Figures 6 and 7 The band comprises an interliner or stiffening ply 16, and outer wider plies 17, 18. As in the top, the interliner 16 is preferably formed of material, such as commercially shrunk fabric, having a lower coefficient of shrinkage than the outer plies 17, 18 and materials are employed having almost exactly predetermined coefiicients of shrinkage in order that the outer plies ma when shrunk, be suitably tensioned upon t e inner play and shrunk into close contact therewith.

The bottom edge 1 9 of the ply 17 is folded over the bottom edge of the band interliner or intermediate ply 16 to envelop the latter, and the two plies are united by" a line of stitching 20. The band and top are united by interposing the top between the upper edges 21 of the-outer band plies 17, 18, and the top and outer band plies in this overlapping relation are sewed together by two lines of stitching 22, 23, the former extendin only through the inturned edges of the ban lies 17 18, and the latter being passed throug all of the plies after the plies 17 18 are moved from the position illustrated in Figure 5 to that of Figure 7. It will be observed that the band interliner 16 is sufficientlynarrowerthan the outer plies 17,18, so that it does not overlap the edges of the top plies, its upper edge being thereby spaced downwardly from the top.

In Figure 5 the to and band are shown as united-by the stitching 22, and in Figure 7, the band plies 17 18 are shown as folded downwardly to receive the stitching 23.

The band is then quilted (Fig. 8) by the stitching 24, thus uniting all the band plies intermediate their top and bottom edges, and after the formation of the-buttonhole 25, and the attachment of the button 26, the collar is ready for the shrinkage process. It will be noted that in this condition the band ply 18 has a raw bottom edge extending downwardly a substantial distance beyond the folded edge 19 of the otherouter plg, which envelo es the interliner. However, t e three band ies are united b the stitching 23, 24, and the band and to eing similarl formed of plies havmg di erent and re etermined coeflicients of shrinkage, wil similarly react to the shrinkage process.

When the entire collar has been completed, and is ready for attachment to the shirt, it is thensub'ected to a careful shrinking process, the res t of which is to cause the comparatively light and commercially unshrunk outer Elies to shrink tightl upon the interposed eavier plies 10 an 16 of commercially shrunk fabric, and to a predetermined extent because of the selection of fabrics whose shrinkaige under this treatment has been substantia y exactly predetermined. This operation tends not only to prevent or remove wrinkles from the outer lies and to cause the outer plies to closely em race and to be tensioned upon the heavier interlining ply, but also have a number of additional results.

The shape of the collar because of the use of fabrics having predetermined coefiicients of shrmkage, is maintained, and there is no distortion of the collar because of excessive shrinkage ofouter plies upon the inner ply. Moreover, there is a shrinkage only suflicient to tension the outer plies properly upon the interlining ply.

By the provision of a band similar in construction to the top, the desired relation between these parts is retained after the laundering treatment. As will be understood, the corresponding plies of the band and top, including the outer plies, are preferably made of the same fabrics or at least fabrics having the same predetermined coefficients of shrinkage to provide a uniform reaction to the pr0cess and so. that the effect of the shrinkage process will be substantially the same throughout the collar. In some instances the band interliner may be heavier than the top interliner but it should have the same coefficient of shrinkage.

This shrinkage process to which the completed collar ready for attachment to the shirt is subjected, will vary with different fabrics, since it has been found necessary for yarious reasons to exercise more care with certain fabrics, for instance, to prevent discoloration which would result in a collar and shirt unmatched in appearance.

The first step with collars of all fabrics is to thoroughly wet the entire collar, which is then subjected to a drying operation. This wetting and drying operation which eflects the shrinkage is preferably carried out in such a way as to leave the collars thereafter in flat or unmussed condition.

Collars of some fabrics will then be read for attachment to the shirt, but others which require more care may be subjected to a dampening, and thereafter to a seasoning period,

preferably of at least twelve hours. Following this seasoning, a preliminary .ironing is given the collars, and they are then ready for attachment to the shirt.

In attachin the collar, the neck edge 27 of the shirt cidence with the bottom edge 18' of the band ply 18, with the bodies of the ply 18 and the ody of the shirt material superimposed. A line of stitching 29 is then run through these plies. The band ply 18 and the collar are then folded over the stitching 19 to carry the interliner 16 and other band ply 17 to the opposite side of the shirt neck to which the interliner and band pl 17 are attached by a line of stitching 30. it will be observed that the folding of the edge 19 over the interliner provides a finished edge for final attachment to the shirt, and the greater width of the ply 18 with its edge 18 ositioned below the bottom of the edge of t e ply 17, facilitates initial attachment of the. ply 18 to one side of the shirt.

It will be understood, of course, that the invention is not limited to the details of the method or collar construction set forth, since numerous variations may be made without departing from the invention which is defined by the following claims.

I claim:

1. That improvement in the art of making fold collars of the shirt-attached type, which consists in making the collar top and band, the latter comprising a plurality of plies, uniting the top and band, subjecting the collar to a shrinkage process with the free edge of the band having the plies unsewed so that the band is open along said edge, and thereafter sewing the collar to the shirt.

2-. That improvement in the art of making fold collars of the shirt-attached type, which consists in making a collar top and band, having substantially the same predetermined coeiiicients of shrinkage, the band having a plurality of plies, uniting the top and band, subjecting the collar to a shrinkage process with the free edge of the band open, and thereafter sewing the collar to the shirt.

3. That improvement in the art of making fold collars which consists in uniting a band and top, each consisting of at least three plies including an intermediate and two outside plies, the material of the innerply and outer plies having different and substantially predetermined coeiiicients of shrinkage, with the outer plies having a relatively higher ooeflicient of shrinkage, and subjecting the collar to a shrinking process.

4. That improvement in the art of making fold collars of the shirt-attachedtype, which consists in uniting a band and top, the latter consisting of at least three plies, including an intermediate and two outside plies, the material of the inner ply and outer plies having different and substantially exactly preigure 9) is arranged in coindetermined coeiiicients of shrinkage, with the outer plies having a relatively higher coeflicient of shrinkage, subjecting the collar to eflicients of shrinkage, with the outer plies I having a relatively higher coefficient ofshrinkage, subjecting the collar to a shrinking process, and then sewing the band to a shirt.

6. That improvement in the art of making fold collars of the shirt-attached type, which consists in uniting a band and top, the latter consisting ofat least three plies including an intermediate and two outside plies, the material of the inner ply and outer plies hav ing different and substantially predetermined coefficients of shrinkage, with the outer plies having a relatively higher coefficient of shrinkage,fsubjecting the collar to a shrinking process, giving the collar a preliminary ironing and then sewing the same to a shirt.

7. A collar comprising a band of at least three plies, including an intermediate stiffening ply and two wider outer plies, the bottom edge of one outer ply being folded over the bottom edge of the inner ply to envelope the same, stitching securing the inner ply and said outer ply together adjacent said fold, a fold-over top sewed to said outer band plies in overlapping relation and adjacent the upper edges of the outer band plies independently of the inner band ply.

8. A collar comprising a band of at least three plies, including an intermediate stiffening ply and two wider outer plies, the bottom edge of one outer ply being folded over the bottom edge of the inner ply to envelop the same, stitching securing the inner ply and said outer ply together adjacent said fold, a fold-over top sewed to said outer band plies inoverlapping relation and adjacent the upper edges of the outer band plies independently of the inner band ply, said inner ply having its upper edge spaced downwardly from the overlapping edges of the outer band plies and the top.

9. That improvement in the art of making collars of the shirt-attached type, which consists in forming a band of at least three plies, including an intermediate stiifening ply and two wider outer plies, folding the bottom edge of one outer ply over the inner ply to envelop the same, sewing the inner ply and said outer ply together adjacent said fold, forming a fold-over top, and sewing the same to said outer band plies in overlapping relation and adjacent the upper edges of the outer band plies without overlapping the inner band ply, subjecting the collar to a shrinking process, and then sewing thesanie to a shirt.

10. That improvement in the art of making collars of the shirt-attached type, which consists in forming a band of at least three plies, including an intermediate stifiening ply and two wider outer plies having substantially coinciding edges, folding the bottom edge of one outer ply over the inner ply to envelop the same, sewing the inner ply and said outer ply together adjacent said fold, forming a fold-over top, and sewing the same to said outer band plies in overlapping relation and adjacent the upper edges of the outer band plies without overlapping the inner band ply, said intermediate ply having its upper edge spaced downwardly from the overlapping edges of-the outer band plies and the top, subjecting the collar to a shrinking process, and then sewing the same to a shirt.

11. A laundered collar of the shirt-attached type comprising a fold-over top of multi-ply formation and a band having at leastthree plies,one anintermediate narrower ply, the other plies having substantially coincident edges, the fold-over top having one edge interposed between the outer band plies without overlapping the intermediate band ply, one of the outer band plies having its bottom edge folded over the edge of the inner ply and secured thereto, the material of said band plies and the plies of the top having substantially predetermined coeflicients of shrinkage, the coefiicients of shrinkage of the outer band plies and of the top ply of the fold-over top being higher than the shrinkage coeflicients of the remaining plies.

12. That improvement in the art of mak ing fold collars of the shirt-attached type, which consists in forming a band and a top, each having at least three plies, one an inner stifiening ply, and theothers Outer plies, the outer plies having higher coefficients of shrinkage than the inner ply, uniting all the superimposed plies of the top and band and sewing together the top and band, subjecting the collar to a shrinking process whereby the outer plies are tensioned by their relatively greater shrinkage upon their respective inner plies, and then sewing the collar to a shirt.

13. That improvement in the art of mak ing fold collars of the shirt-attached type, which consists in making the collar top and band, the latter comprising a plurality of plies, uniting the top and band, subjecting the collar while in a substantially fiat condi tion to a shrinkage process with the free edge of the band having the plies unsewcd so that the band is open along said edge, the shrinkage process involving wetting and drying of the collar and thereafter sewing the collar to the shirt.

14. That improvement in the art of making fold collars of the shirt-attached type, which consists in making the collar top and band, the latter comprising a plurality of plies, uniting the top and band, subjecting the collar to a shrinkage process with the free edge of the band having the plies unsewcd so that the band is open along said edge, said shrinkage process comprising (a) wetting and drying of the collar, and (b) dampening and aging, and thereafter sewing the collar to the shirt.

15. That improvement in the art of making fold collars of the shirt-attached type, which consists in making the collar top and band, the latter comprising a plurality of plies, uniting the top and band, subjecting the collar to a shrinkage process with the free edge of the band having the plies unsewcd so that the band is open along said edge, said shrinkage process comprising (a) wetting and drying of the collar, (1)) dampening and aging, and (c) a preliminary ironing, and thereafter sewing the collar to the shirt.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand.

RALPH HUNTER.

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