US1735172A - Necktie - Google Patents

Description

Nov. 12-, 1929. J. E. LANGSDORF iIECKTIE Filed Aug. 10 1925 Patented Nov. 12, 1929 UNITED STATES JESSE E. LANGSDORF OF WOODMERE, NEW YORK NECKTIE Applicationflled August 1o 1925] Serial N0. 49,349.

My inventioxi relates to certain new and usefulimprovements in neckties, and especially to that dass of ties generally known as hat 01 bow ties. It h21s for its object the 5 production of a tie having greater'durability tha1'1 those heretofore in use, one Which can be more readily und attractively tied; und, in addition, a tie Which, within limits, isadjustable with respect 130 its length, so

that the stock required to be cmried by the dealer, to supply various sizes of ties, need not be so great as heretof0rc. Other objects '01? my invcntion will appear from the following de scription.

5 Bat wing tics, as heretoforc madc, usually consisted of a silk cover, und an interlining cf such character as wouid furnish the neccs sary body 01 stiffness to the finished tie. In l'.h8 ma1 1ufacturc 'of such ties, it has been aus- 2 tomary to takc two pieces cf silk, cut to the V shape of the tic but a triflc wider, placc the faces of the si1k togethiar, 1ay the intcrlining upo1i the'silk, und machinestitch the three picces together along the edgeshxceptfor a space cf about one inch near thc center 0f one sidc ofthe tie, which small Portion was 1eft open; Through this aperture the tie was turned, und this opening being then closed, 1he tie was press6d into shape, andfoi-med a fairly satisfactory article. It Will be apparent, however, that in such tics, the portions 0'f the lining, extending outsidc of the machine stitching, will be turned ovcr upon turnmg the tie; und the'se portions, even if pTessed fiat after the tur1iing Operation, Will form a double thickness 0f material 0r ridgc entirely aroimd the edgcsof the tie. If the lining material is fairly heavy as comparcd to the silk used the ridge is Ivery perccptible 40 und unsightly, 2uid should the linin'g material be 0f such a character that itdoes not readily crease, the turned ovcr. edge will not1ie flat, but Will forin a diStinct and unsight1y ribor ridge 'along the edges cf the tie, sc-

riously impairingits appearance.

f 'lhe lining'sheretofore generally used in such ties have beer'1 made cf canton flannel,

1riuslin, canvas 0r other cotton mate'rial; und,

While such materials are creasable und may stflyflat;after presSing, theyare for :that

reasonreadily subjectfo being wrinkled; ai1d tics having such linings soon get mit of shape und become unsightly.

I havc found that four-in-hand ties h:iving a linii1g made from a fabiic not subject to pe1'- niancnt distortion, such, for instance, as a wovcn woolen fabric, When cut and incorporatcd in 21 spccial way, posscss very substantial advantages. An important object, thereforc, 0f thc prescnt invntion is the construction cf a tie of the'hait 01 bow typc, employmg a lining which is not easily'distortable.

jlii addition, my tie possesses othcr substant1ul Qdvan tages in that 1t can be reachly1and attrcctively tied, und easily i1ntied; und, 05 Wiihin limits, is adjustable with respect to its length.

In the manufacture cf ncckties thc silk 11mterial 'is frequently cut u pon the bias, chicfly for artistic rcasons. Strips of si1k, howcver, Whcn cut on thcbias, are stretchable, and, t0 a limited exteht, elastic. That is, a strip of silksay thirty inches long,may' be pulled und elongate'd an inch 0r more without physically disPlacing the adja0ent th1cads of the inaterizil; und when the pul1 is released, thc

ma'trial will spring back to substantially its original condition and dimension. T0 this exten it is elastic. If, howcvcr, such a stirip cf silk is subjectcd to an cxcesSive strain 01 89 pull-one suflicient to physically displacc some 0f the adjaccnt threads-the strip will b( peimanently distortcd, Will hztve permancnt longitudinal crcases, und, when the strainiis removed, will oniy spring back partially. It Will ncver return t0 its original dimcnsion, unless restored by sinne extrancous means.

This limit 0f clasticity 01 yieldability without distortion varies, ofcourse,with silks of 90 different weights und characters 0f weave, but the pu lling strain to Which ties are subjected in adjusting them between ehe folds cf the collar is usually beyond the elastic limit cf all silks generally 'used in necktie manufucture und is fur beyondthe elastic limit of light weight silks, such aus foulards, crcpes, 01 the 1ike.

In the preVious manufacture 0f neckties, efiorts have beten made to prevcnt 01 mini 18 mixe this tendency to distortion, and tl1e method generally adopted was the provision of a longitudinally rigid lining, to which the siik was fir1nly 'secured. On die otl1er band, I have pointed out in a previous Patent, N0. 1,447090, granted February 27, 1923, a diffe1enl; method of construction whereby stretchability Within the elastic limits of the fabric was permissible, employing in my 0011* struction a lining of limited elasticitj but one sufiiciently strong to witliscand, Withou distortion, all pulling strains likely to be n et with in service. In the form of tie disclosed in said invention, I emplyed, as a preferable lining material, a piece of biaS cut woven fab- 1ig of a material such as W001, Wl1ich would st 1eteh t o a ee rtain extent without having its elastic limit exceeded by {ehe pulling strain, an d such ties in the ;f01;ni of fourmhands haue gone into extensive use. Such a lining, when in corporated {che novel manner devised by n e, pennits the si lk to stretch witl1- in its elastic limit, and not on!y permits, but assis if n e sery in r e i s Silk i t s original condiipion, whe n -the pulling strain is ren1oved, In addition, suoh a lining posi g fib r rsifi@l. y e W difii@ult to presse, and there fore -1fes isted the wrinkling tendenCies-, and produced a cie l1aving great 'dumbility and wearing qualities.

In the manufaeture of bat; wing or turned ties, however, it Will be appreciated that the use f such a lining was practically impossible, if tl1e previous manufacturing methods were einployed. The lining-material was of such a oha raeter {hat it interfered seriously With tl1e turniiig operation, the edges of the materi al eatching in the threads of tl1e Sill duriigg tl 1e turning operation anal, in addition, it was diflicult, if not impossible, to press down tl1e lining along the machine sfiitching so that it would lie fla1'; aiter-the tie Was tu"rne d.

- By. 1ny, present inven tion I hav e overcome these difiiculties, and am able to produee -a tiev of tl1e now type, having a lining not read- Qi ly subjec t to distortion and, in addition, one possessing grez1t durability as weil as other advantages.

One f0rin ofmy invention is elearly illustra'ted in othe accompanying drawings, whereinf Fig. 1 is a plan view of a finished tie made in aecordanee with my invention;

Fig. 2 is a longitudinal se ':tion aaken 1tlnongh th e Center of Fig. l;

Fig. 8 is ;a plan view f a ne c ktie sewed up,

ready for turnixig (tl1e end 0'f one lining anen'1ber kein-g broken away) Fig. 4 is a similar laut enlrged fragmentary view sl1owing-the n1ethod 025 fastening th'e li ningto one end of izh'e tie;

5 is a longitudinal seetiona l vieW, taken ap'p'roxiniatel'y through the enter 0f 4; an'd Fig. 6 is a view of' a tie end, showing t-he turning operation already begun.

Similar numerals indicate like parts throughout all the drawings.

In t-he manufacture cf 1ny tie, I prefer to proceed as follows: A pair of similar blanks oi silk l, and 2, are cut to shape, but slightly larger than tli e intended hie. The silk is preir'erably cut on tl1e bias 'f0r artistie reasons and fo1 purposes to be hereinafter pointed ou. These blanks a1e then superposed and a1e tnen united by stitehing 3, 3, extending along tl1e longitudinal edges thereof except for a small space 4:, usually about an inch, which is left unstitclied to for1n an aperture tlnol1gli which t l1e tie may be tunned. In addition t,o the longitudinal st- itel1ing 3, 3, the ende a re stit ched aeross a1; 5, which la ter sticching forme tl1e ends of tll6 tie 'l fi e {111d rn l T s stching nmy be oI" any desi1ed charaeter, althouglyl prefe1 to nse a machine stiteh whic h Will have a cexaain degree of longitudinal st-retchabilily. This is not absolutely essenial, however, as it is apparent thac as tlgis strefeehing does not follow astraightline, but cnrves as it extends fpom tl1e neckband to the wider portions of the tie ends, a certai i1 a1nount f stretchability Will be possessed by a tie wherein the stiching is a substantially rigid maehine stitcl1.

The blanks thus united are now ready for tlie insertion 01 ntrachrnent ofthe lining, und in the preferred form of my invention I e1nploy two lining 1nexnbers 6 und 7, 00m prising strips of material hav;ing limited longitudinal elastieity or resiliency. such, for instance, as a bias cuo woven W001 mbric, oi su h weight and character that it will not be permanently distorted by an reasonable pullio which it.may be subjected in adjusting the tie around tne neck of the user.

The lining members are preferably ein; t0 shape so as to substantialljr fill the pockets fornied by the stitChing 3 anal 5 when the sill: members are turned, and the sn1aller ends 8 and 9 01 the lining are of such lengt-h that when adj usted in tl1e turned tie, as sh0wn in Fig. 2, they Wlll slightly overlap. YVhen the silk 1nen1bers have been united by tl1e s-iitel1ing 3 and 5, as above described, the lining 1ne1nbeis a1e inserted by: slipping the lai'gel ends tl1ereof into the shallow outer pockets formed in the ends of tlie silk by tl1e stitching3 and Tl1e langer ends ol the lining members may be pushed to the botiom of tl1ese shallow pockets against tl1e siitfil1ing in whicl1 esse tl1e stitching serves 'as an aligning means for 'insuring the proper placement of tl1e inembers.

InFig. 4 the end of thelining member is shown as inserted co slightly lesser degree, but it -is so illustratedto m01e clearly indicate the parts therei n sliown. When t-he wider ends of the lining members are insertecl ancl properly clisposed belzween the folds of silk, a further IOW of stitching 10 is provicled, thereby securly uniting Ehe encls of the silk und ehe ends 0'f the lining member together. The tie is tl1en reacly f0r the turning operation. This Inay be accomplishecl by any suitable metliocl, although I prefer t0 use that generally employed in tl1e manufactuxe of turnecl ties, namely, tulning upon a blunt hearlecl stick.

F ig. 6 shows the disposition of the parts after the turning operation lms been startecl, Wl1ile Fig. 2 Shows tl1e relation of the parts alter the tie l1as been compleiely turnecl. In the latcer figure lt Will be notecl that the lining members 6 und 7 lie perfectly flat throughout tlie entire length of the finisl1ed tie, und l3ll'tthese members zue not turned and have 110 c1ease even at tl1e outer ends where it is stitched to tl1e silk. The inner encls 0f the lining members overl-ap, as shown; and alter they lmve be-an disposel in tl1e overlapped position sl1own in Fig. 2, the aperture 4 is then sewecl up. I prefer t0 secure tl1e arts together by stitching 11, 11, passing through the silk as Wall. A label 12 may also be stitcl1ecl upon the back 0 1' ahe tie, as shwn where clesirecl. 'Ihe tie um then be pressecl, ancl is reacly f0i use.

It Will be notecl that in be construction above describecl, a lining of limited &asticiy is provicled, whicl1 is secured t0 lhe body only at tl1e encls ancl in tlie neckband; and as it substantially fills tl1e inside 0f tl1 e ie und .is not creasgxble, it tends t-0 resist any tendency to wrinkle 01 crease, which tho tying of tl1e tie tends t0 procluce. At the Same "cime, the lining is substantially flat und. without creases throughout the entire length ancl breaclrh of the tie, anal so procluces unsightly l.lbS 01 ridges. In adclition, tlie lining possesses limitecl longitudinal elasticitY 01 re siliency, und will stretch clu1ing the tyin operation 01 in responseto a moderate PHIL, say, an incl1 t0 an incl1 an l 21 half 01 1nore i a thirty incl1 tie. 'This stretch, however, substuntially lass than the elaslvic limia 01 practically all silks used in tl1e nmnufacture of such ties, so tlmcthc limitecl yielding 0f tl1e lining will n0t be sulficient t0 permit the silk be permanently clistorted, 21ml irf proper stitcl1ing is employ cl in the conzstrucfion 0:E alle tie, tlie elasticii1y o1 yiel l 0f the lining Will not 0e sufliciont l:o put any 1U1(lue straiu upon the tlueacls us(ed in the stitching. This ability t0 yielcl 033 stretch m1 :l return to its original shape, is an excedingly valuable characteristic in bow 01 bat tieS. F01 instance, a satislactory length Of a bat tie 'f01' a 14 inch Collar is about twentynine inches while a satisiactory length im a 15% inch col- 1:11 is about thirty inches. When it .is appraciated that collnrs in common use range f'i01ii 13% 130 17 inches 01 more lt Will be seen that to supply any reasonable clomand,

Zwisl1es his line complete, he is requirecl so carry all f tern. i

Ties macle accorcling to my present invention, however, have a strechability of from One to tw0 inches 0r even more; So that it Will 1*eafclily be seen that by their use the stock these sizes in evefy style 01 pat- 0fties requirecl t0 suPply the rea sonable clemands 0li' the Public Will be materially lessenezl, in fact, tWo 01: possibly th1ee si2es being Suflicient t0 accommoclale substant-ially the entire clemancl. In aclcliti0n, my im provecl tiepossess'es 110 tendency t0 Wrinkle,

ancl a Streng tendency to 1eturn t0 its origi nal sl1ape anrl conclition after being usecl, and thus constitultes an. article which has substan tially"greater clurability anal usefulness than those macle by previous methocls. Tl1e lining not only tencls to prevent wrinkling, but tends t0 smooth 0ut az1y wrinkls or creases which tl1e silk may have receivecl in use upon lhe wemer. 1

It Will be apparent tlmt my 1nventrwn 1s snsceptible of' embocliment invarious clifler ent ways an l in many moclifiecl forms, ancl I wishitwlistinctly unclerstoocl that the forni il.llustr atecl und cle scribecl is f0i' illustrative purposes only. F01 inslanae, in the illustratecl tie tl1e lining consists 01 two members,

whi ch am joined loy 0Verlapping at the cantel, bat, if prefezrecl,the lining may consist of butfsii1gle meinber Cf sufiicientsize ancl sliape t0 @xtencl thr0nghont such.portion of tl1e tie as is r'eiquirecl t0 accomplish th6 clesirecl result. Again, as shown, tl1e lining membei*s aresecured at their outer ends ii1 a pIGfOII'CCI 'WEI-y I-I0waver, otherwziys may be aclovted anclstill be witl1in the purview of mfy invontionQ So als0 the lining members am vetlap;jecl und stitChecl totl1e silk at the canter in the l;1e 1llustmleclbut th1s 1s n0t ossential, 13l1e linmg, whetlier 1n one 01 .more pieces may run freo through the center 0f the tie 1111Cl be unconnectecl to the s1lk Tl1e label 12 may also be at this point. omittecl, if desired.

In adclition, Wl1i.le I prefer t0 use 213 a lii1 ing material a woven woolen fabriccut 0n the bias, yet this not; essential t0 accomplish some of the purposes 01 my invenri0n. Other materials may be usxacl, und, up0n occasion, tl1e lining nmy be cut straight. As an instance, tl1e feature ofelastic stretchability may be acco'mplisherl by the use 0f certain woven lining fabr1cs WhlCl1 have a clegree of stretclmbility along the lins 0f tl13irwvary 0 1 W00f threacls by reason 0f the spec1al characemstic; 01: the weave. Kmtted fabr1cs are also stretchable, und 1night be used t0 0btain certain of ivl1e features of my invention.

Finally, f0r artistie reasons, und to take admntage of various palvterns, I prefer to cut tl1e sillz l0f which the de is made, on the bias,

butthis is not. absolutely necessary c 3000mpli sh s0me o:f the advantages attend1ng upon the use Cf my invention. The silk maybe cutstraight, 01 in 2uiy way; 0,1" the silk itself may consist 0f a woven 0r knitted fabric; in fact, of any material produce an attractive tie.

All 01 these changes are ment-ioned merely as illustrtions, however, and not as defining the only modifications whi ch it is possible to make; and I desi1e to have it clearly Understo0d that my ii1vention and patent protestion is t be limited only within the fair purporn 0f the appended claims.

Having thus described 0ne form 0f my invention, what I claim and desire t0 secure by Lttrs Patent is:

l. The method of manufacturing neckties consigting in cutting blanks 0f b0dy m1te'rial to tbe proper shape, uniting them by stitchfing, securing a resilient lining t0 said body p0rion near the ends tneyeof, tmning the zie, und securing the parts in assembl ed position. Q. A bow tiecom1risizdg a body portion and a resilient lining disposed therein in a fiat condition ih101igh0110 'its entire area, secured thereto near th6 opposite ends thereof, and being freg therefiom atall other places ex- Cept at the 11ckband ortion.

' 3. A tie including a sh eath pl senting infwardljz extending marginal portions forming 2; pocket ahd a lining strip disposed mithin said sh eath and ha'ving its e11d portion secufd t0 the same adjg1cent th'e 0uter end 0f the 1atter the encl edg'e 0f said strip being disposed within Said pocket.

4. A tie including asheath present-ing inwardly 'eXtending marginal portions' forming a pocket a nd a lining strip disposed withiii said sheath and having its end Portion dispo sed within said packet, the inwarclly extending marginal portions of the sheach und the strip end being secured t0 ea0h other and the strip being solely attachedto sziid sheath im p'oints be'yond t-hedis1alay portions Qf the atter.

JESSE E. LANGSDORF.

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