US1663488A

US1663488A - Overedge sewing machine

Info

Publication number: US1663488A
Application number: US729099A
Authority: US
Inventors: Berger Joseph
Original assignee: Union Special Machine Co
Current assignee: Union Special Machine Co
Priority date: 1924-07-30
Filing date: 1924-07-30
Publication date: 1928-03-20
Anticipated expiration: 1945-03-20
Also published as: US1663490A

Description

March 20, 1928.

J. BERGER OVEREDGE SEWING MACHINE Filed July 30. 1924 '7 Sheets-Sheet 1 March 20, 1928.

J. BERGER OVEREDGE SEWING MACHINE Filed July 30. 1924. 7 Sheets-Sheet 2 w am a W 336 Q Jf 0; #Am 1. a a H j i J '7 Sheets-Sheet 3 jiv ,lllllllu'ml mmu March 20, 1928.

J. BERGER OVEREDGE SEWING MACHINE Filed July 3a 1924 March 20, 1928. 1,663,488

J. BERGER OVEREDGE SEWING MACHINE Filed July 30. 1924 ,7 Sheets-Sheet 4 a 24/ Aw% (3/ L96 1 a i134 3m '7 Sheets-Sheet 7 March 20, 1 928.

J. BERGER OVEREDGE SEWING MACHINE Filed July 30. 1924 Patented Mar. 20, 1928.

name S TATES JOSEPHBERGER, OF U TICA, NEWYORK, ASSIGNOB, TO E'U'NION' SIPECIAL MAGHINE.COM-

-P'AZNY, 01" CHICAGO, ILLINOIS,

Application (filed July 30,

The invention relates'to new and useful improvements in sewing, machines, and more particularly .a .sewing 'machine which is adapted to form over-edge stitches. I I An object of the:inventionlis.to provide a machine of the above type with a reciproeating needle movable'in afixed path, a cooperating thread carrying element 1 beneath theplane of the worksi pport, and an oven edge thread carrying element .whi ch cooperates with said under thread carrying .element and in rear thereof beneath the plane of the worksupport, and .with the'needle, andinfront thereofiyzirb'ovethe planeot the work si pport. and wherein the .means for operating this thread carrying element is i I I I the machine as viewed from the left hand end very compactlyarranged, of few parts. and positive in theirkmovement,.so .that the machlne may be operated at lngh-speed and me; anyn aterial vibrations, I

A further ob ect of the invention s to provide a .machine of the. above type wherein theoveredge thread carrying implement A still further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above type wherein the work support isso constructed and, the .ieeding mechanismsoarranged that small; tubular articles can be readily stitched or overedged on the machine. II

Another object of the invention is to provide a trimming; i'necl'ianism which operates to trim the edge oi the fabric which is to be covered by over-edge stitches in advanoe of the placing of the overedge; stitches around the edge.

ihese and other objects will in part be obvious and .Wlll in part be hereinafter more fully-disclosed.

quicklvstopped or started without producw H r- 4- J .-l:0 lug. 6;

CORPORATION OF ILLINOIS.

.ovnnnnen SEWING MACHINE.

1924. semi *No. 729,099.

[Inthe drawings which show by way of illustration one embodiment of the invention+ Figure lis a 'front view of a machine em bodying; the improvements;

. is aniend view of said machine as viewed from the'left in Fig. 1; I

Fig. 3;is,a sectional view on the line 33 of'FigQQ; I I

Fig. 4 is a sectional view on the line 47".4: oi""lfig.f3; 7 i i I Fig. his a sectional. v'iewon the line 55 ofFigfiQ, with certain of theparts omitted and the coverplate swung so as" to expose the parts covered; I I

Fig. 6 detail of the lower portion of thereof and with the cover plate swung so [as to exposethe parts covered thereby;

Fi T is a detailsectionalview on the line 7 Fig. 8 is a detail sectional view on the line "Fig.9 is a detail in section on the line 9+9 ofF ig-S;

Fig'. ilOis aview showing the stitch forming elements whenthe needle on its downward movement is entering the overedge looper thread loop;

Fig. 11 is a view similar to Fig. 10, but

showingthe needle as having moved down to :a point where it .is penetrating thejedge portion 01": the fabric, the overedge .looper having been retracted tmaposition where it is about to shed theloop ofthe under thread carrying looper Fig. 12 is a view similar to Fig. 11, but I showing the needle as having moved 'down to a position near thelower end of its stroke, I

and a Fig. '13 is an enlarged plan view showing the presser Ltoot, the work supporting ,plate, the trimmer, and the. portion of fabric'havinn an edge coveringformed thereon.

In carrying out the invention, a sewing machine has been provided which includes an eye pointed thread carrying needle, an nnde'r thread carrying looper, whichpasses theloop of thread. into the needle thread loop tor -securing the same, and an overedge thread carrying looper which passes a loop of thread through the loop formed in the iowerlooper thread. and positions the loops in its own thread for the needle to enter above the work or material being stitched. It is not considered that there is anything new in this form of stitch; it is a well known form of overedge stitch.

The purpose of the invention is to provide a novel form of stitch forming mechanism wherein the parts for operating the loopers are few in number and very compactly arranged and positively operated so that the machine may be driven at high speed without skipping stitches or producing undue vibrations in the parts being operated. The eye-pointed thread carrying needle is carried by a needle bar which is reciprocated in a fixed vertical path, and said needle bar is posi tively reciprocated by an eccentric strap operated by an eccentric on the main shaft, which eccentric strap is connected to a lever which is relatively short and which in turn is connected to the needle bar. Cooperating with this needle beneath the work support is a thread carrying looper which moves back and forth in a single plane. Said thread carrying looper is oscillated twice for each reciprocation of the needle. As soon as the needle starts on its upward movement, a loop of thread is thrown out thereby, and the looper moves forward into the needle thread loop. Inasmuch as this looper moves a good deal faster than the needle, it will get into and out of the needle thread loop in a very short time so that when the work is fed along by the feed dogs, the looper is out of the needle thread loop and allows the feed to move the work without resistance from this under thread looper, and at the same time, the looper, by its quick movement into and out of the needle thread loop, will draw the least amount of needle thread possible,

that is, just enough to form a stitch. The

second reciprocation of the under thread carrying looper, which occurs while the needle is above the work support, is an idle movement.

Cooperating with this under thread carrying looper and with the needle, is an overedge thread carrying looper. This overedge thread carrying looper is mounted on a. shaft which is capable of oscillation so as to move the looper from a point beneath the plane of the work support to a point above the same. The looper is mounted on this supporting shaft so that it may be swung during its oscillationfrom a point well underneath the edge of the work support and material being stitched to a point well over the same, where the needle may enter its thread loop. Means for supporting this overedge looper is also so disposed that the looper moves from a point in rear of the under thread carrying looper. to a point in front of the needle. This overedge thread carrying looper receives its movements from a single eccentric on the main shaft, but is assisted in its movements by a link which is pivoted at one end to the support for the looper and at its other end to a stationary member so arranged that as the looper is moved bodily, this link will cause the looper to dip underneath the work support or fabric at one end of its stroke and pass over the work support or fabric at the other end of its stroke, and also. to pass from a position .in rear of the looper beneath the work support to a position in front of the needle above the work support. The cloth plate for supporting the work during stitching terminates both a short distance in front of the needle and a short distance in rear thereof. The feed dogs are supported and operated by devices which have laterally projecting parts extending underneath the portion of the cloth supporting plate in the region of the stitching and the operating parts of the feed and the under thread carrying looper are covered by a cover plate which is shaped so that small tubular articles may be fed on to this cloth supporting plate, overedged, and then off from the cloth -sup porting plate, and in a downward direction so that this tubular fabric may be brought again to the front of the machine and led up on to the cloth supporting plate. This con struction of cloth plate is especially adapted for the hemming of stockings. In order to prepare the edge for the edge covering stitches, a trimming mechanism is provided whitch operates to trim the fabric in ad Vance of the needle.

The present invention is directed particularly to the stitch forming mechanism for forming the overedge stitches. This stitching mechanism, however, is particularly adapted for the hemming of articles such as stockings or the like, and therefore, the stitchingmechanism has been illustrated in a machine having a type of work support which permits this character of work to be accomplished. A suitable feeding mechanism has also been illustrated and will be described for handling the material, and a suitable trimming mechanism will likewise be illustrated and described for preparing the edge which is to be covered by the ove"- edge stitches. The feeding mechanism, how ever, and the trimming mechanism. will be pointed out later. per so. form the subject matter of divisional applications.

Needle operating m-eclumism.

. The stitch forming mechanism includes a needle 1 which is an eye-pointed needle. Said needle is carried by a needle bar 2. The sewing machine includes a bed plate 33 which is provided with a supporting standard 4 having an overhanging arm 5. which in turn is provided with spaced bearings (i and 7 in which the needle bar 2 reciprocates. This needle bar receives its reciprocations from a lever 8 which is connected to the needle bar by a link 9. Said lever 8 is pivoted at 10'- to a bracket 11 carried by the overhanging arm 5; Mounted in the lower portion of thestandard at and in the bearing adjacent the front end of the bed plate 3 is a main operating shaft 12. Said shaft 12 is driven by a belt pulley 13. Mounted on this shaft 12 is an eccentric 14: with which an eccentric strap 15 cooperates. The eccentric strap 15 is connected to a ball member 16 on the inner end of the lever 8. Thus it is that this lever 8 is reciprocated. The b 'acket ll carries spaced bearing members 17 and 18 (see Fig. 4i) in which is mounted a short shaft 19 which is fixed in these hearings. A sleeve 20 is mounted on this shaft and is connected to and supports the lever 8. Said sleeve also supports the ball member 16 and therefore, becomes in effect, a part of the lever 8. It is to be understood that this specilic means for operating the needle bar illustrated'in the drawings and briefly described above, is not apart of the present invention. and has been illustra-ted'solely for the purpose of illustrating a complete operating machine. Inthe commercial form of ma chine which is to be built, this overhanging arm and operating means for the needle bar will probably be inclosed and may be varied withoutdeparting from the spirit ot the invention as claimed in this application. As the main shaft rotates, the needlc'bar will be reciprocated and the needle willpenetrate the fabric a short distance back from the edge thereof, as shown more particularly in Fig. 13of the drawings.

Under thread carrying looper.

The material to be stitched is supported by a cloth plate 21 which will be described more in detail later. The under thread carrying looper is illustrated at 22 in the drawings. Said looper has a thread eye 23 adjacent the forward end thereof and also an eye at the heel thereof as indicated at 24;. The looperis carried by a shank 25 and this shank 25 is dove-tailed in cross section and engages a similar-shapedrecess formed in a supporting arm 26. This supporting arm 26 is split and the two sections thereof are capable of being drawn together by screw 27 and thereby the shank 25 of the looper firmly clamped to the arm.. The arm is rigidly secured to a shaft 28 mounted in a bearing bracket 29' secured to the bed, plate 3. On the rear end of this shaft 28 is an arm 30 whichis rigidly secured to the shaft. This bearing bracket 29 as clearly shown in Figures a and 7 of the drawings, also supports the main operating shaft 12, and extends upwardly above the same so as to form a support for the cloth plate 21 (see Fig. 1) and for other operating parts which will be hereinafter referred to. Among these other operating parts is a short shaft 31 which oscillates the under thread carrying looper.

The shaft 31 extends clear through the bracket 29 and is provided at one end with an arm 32 which is connected by a link 33 in the present illustrated embodiment of the invention to the lever 8 (see Figures 1 and 1-). On the other end of the shaft 31 is a depending arm 3st. A link 35 is connected at its lower end to the arm 30 and at its upper end to the arm 34. As the main shaft 12 rotates, it will vibrate the needle lever 8 and th is in turn, through the depending link 33 will oscillate the shaft 31 and the shaft 31 will swing the 21111134. The extent of movement of the arm 34 is such that the pivotal connection 36 between said arm and the link 35 swings from the position indicated by the broken line 9 (Fig. 7) to the position indicated. by the broken line m in said figure, and these two positions just referred to are .on opposite sides of a line passing through the center of the axis of the shaft 31 and the center of the pivotal connection'between the link 35 and the arm 30. In other words, the arm 34 and link 35 together form toggle links which'move' from one side'of a dead center to the other side thereof, and as a result, this arm 30'will receive two oscillations from each oscillation of the arm 34, which actuates the same, and likewise the looper 26 carried by the shaft 28will be reciprocated twice for each reciprocation of the link 33 which actuates the same. As the link 33 moves in timing with the needle bar, it will be noted that this under thread carrying looper reciprocates twice for each reciprocation of the needle. These reciprocations of the under thread carrying looper are so timed that the looper moves rapidly and quickly forward into the needle thread loop as soon as the needle rises suliiciently to permit the looper to enter the needle thread loop, and said loop is out of the needle-thread loop so as to allow the feed to take thework along as-soon as the point of the needle is above the work and without any resistance from the needle thread loop being held by the under looper. It is understood, of course, that the under thread looper has a positive movement back and forth with very little or no dwell at either end of its stroke. It also has a very short movement and therefore draws off very little of its own thread. It likewise draws the least amount of needle thread possible, or just enough to term the stitch. The next reciprocation of the looper occurs while the needle is above the work support and is really an idle movement. It will be noted that this under tl'iread carrying looper is positively moved by the eccentric strap 15. and moves back and'fm'th in the same path. As a consequence. there is little or no vibration in the operating parts for this looper, even though the n'iacbine be driven at excessively high speed, and as all the connections are positive iii!) connections, there is no chance for any lost motion which is liable to produce the SllP- ping of stitches.

Oreredge thread carry 2 21; looper. The over-edge thread carrying looper is indicated at 31. in the present embodiment of the invention, said looper has an eye 38 adjacent the point thereof and also an eye 39 adpicent the heel thereof. The looper is mounted in a looper carrier 4:0 and is seem-ed therein by screws ll, ell (see Fig. 8). This looper carrier is in turn rigidly secured to a shaft The shaft 42 is mounted in spaced'bearings 4:3, it between which the carrier is located, and said carrier a0 is secured to the shaft a2 by means of a set screw 45. The two spaced bearings 43 and td are carried by the outer end of a sleeve 46, which sleeve 46 is formed as a part of a shaft l7 mounted in the upper end of the bracket 29. The shaft t? extends through the bracket 29 and is provided with an arm 48 which is secured to the shaft by means of a set screw 49. This arm at] in turn carries a ball stud 50 with which the upper end of the eccentric strap 51 is connected. This eccentric strap 51 cooperates with an eccentric 52 on the main shaft 12. ()n the upper end of the shaft there is a laterally projecting arm 53. A. link 5% is provided with a ball head which is engaged by this arm 53. The other end of this link 54E is provided with a ball head 56 which engages a suitable socketformed in a member 56 carried by a plate 56" attached to the upper end of the bracket 29. he length of this 5st and the socket for the ball head 56 and also the socket for the ball head are such that when the supporting shaft- 47 for this overedge looper is oscillated, it will not only produce an oscillation of the looper carrier in a vertical plane, but through the link 54:, it will cause said carrier to oscillate with its supporting shaft d2 so as to move the looper toward and from the needle path. These two moven'ients in the looper are produced by the single eccentric strap on the main shaft. These two movements also cause the looper to more from a position beneath the work support to a position above the work support, and likewise from a position partly beneath the work support at the lower end of its stroke out around the edge of the material and to aposition over the work support above the material. The aris of he shaft a7 is well above the work support, and th refore, the oscillations of this shaft will carry the overedire looper from a position in rear of the under threaid looper beneath the work support, to a position in front of the needle above the work support.

From the above it will be noted that by a single eccentric and this link, and the positioning of the support for the looper, the

looper is given several movements which combine to produce the following path of movement in the point of the looper, that is, the movement into the looper thread loop by the point passing in rear of the lower thread looper,-out around the edge of the fabric, and to a position in front of the needle above the fabric so that the needle may enter the looper thread loop formed by this overedge thread carrying looper. It will be noted from the figures shown .in the drawings that the overede e thread -arrying looper is formed with a straight shank portion 57, a portion. 57" extending downwardly at right angles thereto, and a portion 57 which extends backwardly on the shank portion 57 and outwardly therefrom, so that the looper while mounted above the work support, has the effect of coming up from beneath the work support a it enters the loop of the lower thread carrying looper, as it passes over the edge of the material, and to a position for the needle to enter its thread loop.

Fabric supporting WIGLJLIH'LZSHI,

The fabric or material to be stitched is supported by means of a cloth plate 21. Said cloth plate is supported in part by the bracket 29 which carries a supporting ledge 59 and screws 60, 60 passing through the inner edge of the cloth plate and threaded into said ledge hold the cloth plate firmly 011 said ledge. It is also supported by means of a post 61 carried by the bed plate 3 and projecting vertically upward therefrom at the front of the bed plate and directly in front of the stitching point. Said post 61 has a cut away portion 82 so as to give room for the feed to act and an upwardly projecting lug 63 to which the cloth plate is secured by means of a screw 64. Said screw (it passesthrough a slot in the .cloth plate which extends in a direction at right angles to the line of feed and this permits the trimming mechanism to be shifted or adjusted for changing the width of the seam. This cloth plate 21 is provided with

feed slots

65, 66 and 67. The main feed dog 68 is provided with feeding sections which project in part through the slot and in part through the slot 67. There is also an auxiliary feed doc; 69 with feeding' sections which project in part through the slot 65 and in part through the slot 66. This cloth plate also has a needle hole therethrougl'h indicated at 70. Alongside of the needle hole is a stitch finger 71 of the usual charactor in. overede'e machines over which the stitches are laid, and the feed moves the fabric, the stitches will slip off from the end of this stitch finger. There is also a slot 7 2 in the cloth plate 21 which is directly in front of the stitch finger and the lower blade 7 3 of the trimming mechanism pro jects up through vthis slot J-Said ,blade ,7 3

ismoiinted on thesiipporting 'p ostfil. 7 C- operating with the cloth plategis a pres'ser foot Tet earriedby a presserf barjjfi oflrthe usual type. This resser foot islhin-gedto the supporting shank '76 anc'lthis ehank'is ,1n turn seeuredto the lower end ,ef the bar 175. The fer-Ward end of the Presser jfo ot is held depressed? by L means of .aspring "'77 which is 'secnred' to the shmik rtiOII Said plate 78 The v lith plate assures that thefifabrjie will be rm'ly clamped the elotlr plate adjla een the place of opera0 n of the trim ning'bladeffil.

Assotzi'atedwith this elo'th p1ate21 is a cover plate 82Which i-s hinged mesaei'bme et 84; carried by thefbed, plate. @Sajdgwer plate has; a vertiealf po flti n 585' and a" horii; zontal portion-86. "The'vertiejal portion'jis provided with Sllflbdflugs 87 wglrijlefthe bracket 84: hasispaee lugs 88; and a hinge pin 89 extending through said 'l -gs snpport the cover pla'tean'd permit itto swing horizentally towarchan'clisfiro nfthe Cloth pilateQl. k'llhe horizontal portion 86' of the covepp'late the parts of the cloth plate '21; 'Salidfihorizontal .portion swings underneath this clo'th pilate'Ql and the purpose of the cover plate )is to cover theoperating parts beneath the cloth plate. 'Itgis notelfthat the Vertical sec- ,tion' s'l' of the eover plate is curvedfinwarq'lly at 87 a-nd'thence outwardly to give 3 1111118 space for the undefllooperf to operate. 'T'The purpose of this curvged in section is to per mitt a tubular article to be'passed yenthe cloth plate '21 and then directed "downwardly w into this recessed pertion of the coveri plate "87?;a11'd thence hroplght back to'theffront of thefmachine here it "may" be againiidirected its over the 'cloth p1ate21. Thisenables very smell tubular articles to ,be stitehe d. The cover. plate is held normally in elosed positi0n-covering the parts beneath thesanie and behind (the same by' neans of a v spring pressed" bolt 90, W'hi eh is mounted orr'the inner'faee iof this vertical section "87 "of the.

Feed opera/ting mmhamlsm.

The main feed 'dogi68 is carried byxumain "teed bar Said mainffeedbarjs pivotally supported et the rear en d thereof by rocking 5117111533. I Said rocking arms are freely carried yaesha' hy thehed late. The shaft 94;,is utilized "for imparting the back andfforward movements tobotlr'feed bars and osoillated forthis urpose'ihy' means ofyanieceentric strap 97 w iich is eo jneeted to an arm"96 mounted onrthe Shaft 9 1 and depending therefrom," Sai'dfee- "centric st'rapgQT cooperates with an eccentric 98 onthemain shaft. v "Rigidl yt mounted on this fshaft QA is a bracket 108. This bracket 3108 is provided with two upwardly projecting arms1Q9, 'eaeh ofwhieh is proyidedwith an areuate-shaped slot 110. The main feed bar "is, move back and forth "by fajllinjz 112 yvhiehf is cennec ted "to. a bolt afliiknstablein theslot"110byione of Said arms. hejmain feedbar has the laterally rojeetfling v eb "Hi5. I The auxiliary feed f arl03 isf'loeated above this web, aiid is i adaptedto sli clefbac'k and fforth'thereon, is heldfrol'n any niovement, npwardl relative 7 to said nia i n feed "bar: the p ate l06 secured-to said "niain feed {screws 107.v LThe ai lxi'liary feed "dog" 68 is carried :a shank U94 mounted in a;braoket -95:oarried w hieh' is "ac ljustably connected with the a 'liary ffee'd ibar by fa screw 1045. "The are ljiaryfeed barf'h as aflepending l'ug to which the link 111 is conneted. "The ether end of this'flink 111'isiconneetedto a belt whiehyis ustable'in' the slot 110 of the arm 10%). The oscillating shaft '9 through the :brackeft' 108 carried I thereby,: the upstanding aririsilt)? and "links l'll andll2 Will im art; feeding vrr nov ements to the, two feed 1b are, and the strdke of these feed bars may be varied j'by shifting' the connection of; the link with its respeetiveflbar." %l;he,ma;in feed --barj;is raised and lowered by means of a dependi egi,yeke *99 which. is secured. to the feed bar and whi'ehbooperates "with a iibllOCk 100.

"This bloek is made, in xtwo pieces and is proj\ ided witl'l aeone-sl'iaped recess "between the two pieces; "A cone-shaped eeeentrie se- 7 our-ed to theend of the mainshaft operates between these "two pieces and raises and lowers the yoke whicliwintturn raises and lowers'the main .feedbar. "The auxiliary "*Ifeedbar, as"l as*been stated inoves up and down, withthe main feedbar, This feeding "mechanism is shown, described 1 and claimed in lny co-pending application, Serial "N0:729510lffi1ed10f evendate herewith; I

m'mmiwme han 7 y The trimming mechanism includes a; mov able trimming blade 81. Said movable trimming ,blade 81 is carried by a rocking arm t' llg yfhicli in turn is mounted on a short shaft 115. "This shaft 115 also earries an arm "116,:a11d said arm 1'16 fis eonneeted to alink 1*I7 whic'h int-urn iseonne'etedto adependingflarrn 118 carried by angles atits forward end and 'ffenns-asupmovable trimming blade 81.

porting head 119. This head 119 is provided with a recess 121 in which is mounted a Said movable trimming blade is clamped inthe recess 121 by means of a clamping plate 123 which is engaged by the head of a bolt 120. As will clearly appear from Fig. 9 of the drawings, this movable trimming blade 81 is set at an incline to-a vertical plane. The extreme 1nner edge, however, iscut or ground so as to form a vertical face 12-1. The cutting blade moves up and down in a vertical plane, and the cutting edge 125 of this blade cooperates with a stationary blade 73 secured to the supportingpost 61 (seeFigures 6 and 9).

A clamping bolt 127 secures the trimming blade in adjusted. positions It will be noted thatv the movable blade asshown m Figl 9,

, moves toa position well above the stationary blade 73. In order to insure that themov- ;able blade make proper cutting contact with the stationary blade, Ihave provideda guidling plate 128 which is mounted on the'trimmersupporting head 119, and secured thereto bya bolt 129 which passes through a slot ,in the guiding. member so that said guiding member can be. adjusted. This guiding member always maintains contact with the lower stationary blade 7 3. 'The shaft 115' is I. of the shaft.

may be varied by means of an adjustable mounted so as to have a limited movement in an endwise direction in a bracket 130 and is spring pressed in a direction toward the stationary blade by means of a spring 131 (see Fig. 3), which bears against the end The tension of this spring bolt 132. This spring pressure insures that the guide plate shall maintain contact with the stationary bladeland hold the trimmer supporting head a predetermined distance from said blade, and of course, the movable blade 81 is set in said movable head so as to have a proper shearing cooperation with the stationary blade.

Associated with the trimming mechanism is a hinged cover plate 133 mounted on suitable hinges 13 1 so that it may be swung toward and from the trimming mechanism (see Fig. 1). This cover plate is held in closed position by means of a suitable latch 135. Associated with the swinging cover plate 133 is a strip deflector 136, which extends in rearof the trimming point and serves to deflect the trimmed 01f portion .toward the front of the machine and away trimming mechanism trims the edge prior to I the stitching thereof, and the stitching mechanism will form overedge stitches about the trimmed edge of the fabric. The

feeding mechanism may be set so as to have a differential movement when operating upon knit goods, so to prevent'the undue stretching of. the same, as for example, in

the hemming of a stocking. The thread of the under thread carrying looper 1s 1nd1- cated at a. Very little thread controlling mechanism is required, as this looper has a very short quick movement, masmuch as it .reci 'nocates twice for each reciprocation of the needle. The thread, however, as it comes from the supply, in the present embodiment'of the invention, passes through a movable thread guide 138 and thence through a stationary thread guide 139 to a stationary thread guide 140 near the lower end of the looper carrier, and from this point, the thread passes to the heel of the looper. The thread for the looper moving over the edge of the fabric is indicated at b. Said thread passes from the supply through a thread guide 1411 and thence to a thread guide 142- carried by the needle bar, and from this thread guide 142 it passes to the heel ofthe overedge looper. The needle thread is indicated at c in the drawings. Said thread passes through the guide 1 1-1 and thence through theguide 1412 on the needle bar, and from this movable thread guide onthe needle bar it passes through an adjustable thread guide 1 13 and thence to the needle eye. These thread controllers form no part of the present invention, and may be greatly modified Without departing from the spirit of the invention, as set forth in the appended claims. I

Having thus described the invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. In a sewing machine, a cloth plate, a.

729,1 00,'filed of even upon itself so as to cause the point of the looper to extend in an upward direction, means for operating said looper whereby the point thereof is caused 'to move from a position substantially beneath the cloth lplate, around the edge of the cloth plate,

and to a position where a needle is adapted to enter the loop of thread formed by said overedge looper, said means for operating the looper including a looper carrier in which said overedge looper is mounted, a shaft on which said carrier is fixed, an arm carried by said shaft, means for supporting and swinging said shaft, and means connected with said arm for oscillating the shaftaduring the swinging thereof.

8. In a: sewing machine, a cloth plate and overedge stitching mechanism including an overedge looper mounted above the clothplate, said looper having a shank which is bent downwardly and substantially back upon itself so'as tocause the point of the looper to extend in an upward direction,

1 means for operating said looper whereby the point thereof is caused to move from a position substantially beneath the cloth plate,

around the edge of the cloth plate, and to ';a position where a needle is adapted to i enter the loop of thread formed by said overedge looper, said means for operating the overedge looper including a carrier for the looper, a shaft on which said carrier is fixed, spaced bearings supporting said shaft,

a head earrying'said spaced bearings and 'the oscillations of said head.

9. In a sewing machine. a cloth plate, a main shaft located beneath the plane of the cloth plate, an over-edge looper including a "looper carrier, a shank rigidly attached to said carriensaid shank being bent downwardly and thence upwardly so as to point man upward direction, a shafton which said carrier is fixed, an eccentric on the.

main shaft, and means operated thereby for swingi ng said shaft on which the looper carrier is mounted about an axis parallel with the axis of the main shaft, and for oscillat ing said shaft about its own axis during the swinging movements thereof.

10. In a sewing machine, a cloth plate. a reciprocating needle, an under looper cooperating with said needle beneath the cloth plate, an overedge looper cooperating with said under looper beneath the cloth plate a'nd'with the needle above the cloth plate, and means for oscillating said under looper whereby the same is caused to move into and out of the needle thread loop while the needle is on its upstroke, said means for oscillating the looper including toggle levers movable fromone side of a dead center line to the other side thereof.

11. In sewing machine, a clothplate, a reciprocating needle, an under thread carrying implement. movable back and forth in a single plane in rear of the needle, an overedge thread carrying implement, a main shaft, an eccentric mounted on said shaft, and devices actuated by said eccentric for oscillating the overedge thread carrying implement for moving the point thereof from below theplane of the cloth plate over the cloth plate and for shifting the plane of 0scillation of said implement whereby the point thereof moves from a position in rear of the under thread carrying implement to a position in front of the needle.

12. In a sewing machine, a cloth plate, an overhanging arm, a needle, a needle lever for reciprocating said needle, an under thread carrying looper,a shaft on which said under looper is mounted, an arm rigid with said shaft, a rockshaft beneath the cloth plate, a link connectingsaid rock shaft with the needle lever whereby said shaft is oscillated with the needle lever, said rock shaft having a. depending arm, a link connecting said depending arm with the arm on the looper supporting shaft, said link and the arm on said rock shaft being so disposed as to move from one side of a dead center line to the other side thereof for oscillating said looper twice for eachreciprocation of the needle bar.

13. In a sewing machine, a cloth plate, an

overhanging arm, a needle, a needle lever for reciprocating said needle, 7 an under thread carrying looper, a shaft on which said under looper is mounted, an arm rigid with said shaft, a rock shaft beneath the cloth plate, a link connecting said rock shaft with the needle lever whereby said shaft is oscillated with the needle lever, said rock shaft having a. depending arm, a link connecting said depending arm with the arm of the looper supporting shaft, said link and the arm on said rock shaft being so disposed as to move from one side of a dead center line to the other side thereoffor oscillating said looper twice for each reciprocation of the needle bar, and for causing said under thread carrying looper to move into and out of the needle thread loop on the upstroke of the needle.

14. In a sewing machine, the combination of a cloth plate, a feeding mechanism for feeding the cloth across the cloth plate, an overhanging arm, a needle lever mounted thereon, a. needle bar reciprocated by said needle lever, a needle carried by said needle bar, an under thread carrying looper, a shaft on which said under looper ismounted, said shaft being disposed substantially in a plane parallel to the line of the feed, an arm carried by said shaft, and means connected to said arm for oscillating said shaft for mo ving the loop-er back and forth in a single plane and for causing said looper to enter and leave the needle thread loop before the cloth is moved on its feeding stroke.

In a sewing machine, the combination of a cloth plate, a feeding mechanism for feeding the cloth across the cloth plate, an overhangingarm, a needle lever mounted thereon, a needle bar reciprocated by said needle lever, a needle carried by said needle bar, an under thread carrying looper, a shaft on which said under looper is mounted, said shaft being disposed substantiallyina plane parallel to the line of feed, an arm carried by said shaft, and means connected to said arm for oscillatingsaid shaft for moving the looper back and forth in a single plane and for causing said looper to enter and leave the needle thread loop before the cloth is moved on its feeding stroke, said means connected to said armfor oscillating said shaft including toggle links movable across a dead center whereby said shaft .is oscillated twice for each feeding movement.

16. In a sewing machine, the combination of a cloth plate, a feeding mechanism for feeding the cloth across the cloth plate, an

overhanging arm, a needle lever mounted thereon, a needle bar reciprocated by said needle lever, a needle carried by said needle bar. an under thread carr in loo m a shaft on which said underlooper is mounted,said shaft being, disposed substantially in the plane of the feed, an arm carried by said shaft, means connected to said arm for oscillating said shaft for moving the looper back and forth in a singleplane and for causing said looper to enter and leave the needle thread loop before the cloth is moved on its feeding stroke, and an over'edge looper cooperating with said under looper beneath the plane of the cloth plate and with said needle above the plane of the cloth plate.

17. In a sewing machine, a bed plate, a bracket mounted on said bed plate and pro jecting upwardly therefrom, a cloth plate supported by said bracket, a reciprocating needle, an under thread carrying looper cooperating with said needle beneath the cloth plate, a shaft mounted in said bracket and located above thefplane of the cloth plate and having an armatone end thereof, an eccentric strap cooperating with an eccentric 011 the main shaft and connected tosa'id arm for positively oscillating said shaft,'spaced bearing sleeves carried by said shaft and oscillating therewith, a short shaft mounted in said bearing sleeves and extending at right angles to the of said first-named shaft, a looper carrier mounted, on said short shaft between said bearing sleeves, an overedge looper mounted in said carrier and havingits shank bent downwardly and thence upwardly so that the point of the "looper will move in an upward direction when the first-named shaft is oscillated to raise the looper, and means for oscillating the shaft on which the looper carrier is mounted in order to carry the looper around the edge of the cloth plate during the oscillations of the arm for positively oscillating said shaft, spaced bearing sleeves carried by said shaft and oscillating therewith, a short shaft mounted in said bearing sleeves and extending at right angles to theaxis of SillClllIfStnamed shaft, a looper carrier mounted on said short shaft between said bearin sleeves, I:

an overedge looper'inounted in said carrier and having its shank bent downwardly and thence upwardly so that the point ofthe looper will move in an upward direction when tllG-l'll'St-IlitlllGCl shaft is oscillated to r lOf' raise the looper, means for oscillating the shaft on whiclrtlie looper carrier is mounted in order to carry the looper around the edge of the cloth plateduring the oscillations of the first-named shaft, said lastnamed means including an arm rigidly connected to said shaft on which the looper carrier is mounted and having a ball socket, said bracket having a ball socket at the upper end thereof, and a link having ball heads at both ends, one of which engages the ball. socket on the arm and the other of which engagesfthe ball socket in the bracket,

said-ball sockets being so disposed and said link being of such length relative to the dis tance of the shaft carrying the looper from the, bracket that .aidshaft will be oscillated har during the oscillations of the first-named a sewing n'iacl'iine, a bed plate, a

bracket mounted on said bed plate and pro,-

jcfcting upwardly therefrom, a cloth plate supported by said bracket,;a reciprocating needle, an under thread carrying looper cooperating with said needle beneath the cloth platefa shaft mounted in said bracket and located above l the planeof the cloth plate and'having an arm at one end thereof, an eccentric strap cooperating withan eccentric on the main shaft and "connected to said arm for positively -osc'illatir'ig, Said shaft,

spaced bearing sleeves carried by said shaft and oscillating therewith, a short shaft .mounted in said bearing sleeves and extending at right angles to the axis of said firstnamed shaft, a looper carrier mounted on said'short shaft between said bearing sleeves, an overedge looper mounted in said carrier and having its shank bent downwardly and thence upwardly so that the point of the looper will move in an upward direction when the first-named shaft is oscillated to raise the looper, means for oscillating the shaft on which the looper carrier is mounted in order to carry the looper around the edge of the cloth plate during the oscillations of the tirst-nan'ied shaft, said lastnamed means including an arm rigidly connected to said shaft on which the looper carrier is mounted and having a ball socket, said bracket having a ball socket at the upper end thereof, and a link having ball heads at both ends, one of which engages the ball socket on the arm and the other of which engages the ball socket in the bracket, said ball sockets being so disposed and said link being of such length relative to the distance of the shaft carrying the looper from the bracket that said shaft will be oscillated during the oscillations of the first-named shaft, said first-named shaft being disposed at such distance above the plane of the cloth plate that the overedge looper will move from a point in rear of the under looper to a point in front of the needle above the cloth plate.

20. In a sewing machine, a feeding mechanism, a bed plate, a bracket mounted thereon and extending upwardly from the bed plate, a cloth plate carried by the bracket, a needle, means for reciprocating said needle, an under looper, a shaft on which said under looper is mounted, a bearing sleeve attached to said bed plate and carrying said shaft, said shaft being located in a plane parallel with the line of feed, a second shaft mounted in the bracket and parallel with the shaft carrying the looper, means for oscillating said second shaft, an arm depending from said shaft, an arm on the end of the looper supporting shaft, and a link connecting said arms, aid arms being so disposed as to oscillate said looper back and forth twice for each reciprocation of the needle.

21. In a sewing machine, a cloth plate, a needle mounted to reciprocate in a line passing through the cloth plate adjacent the edge thereof, an under looper cooperating with the needle beneath the cloth plate, a supporting shaft for said under looper, means at the right of said shaft as viewed from the front of the machine for oscillating the same, an overedge looper cooperating with the under looper beneath the plane of the cloth plate and with the needle above the plane of the cloth plate, means for operating said overedge looper including devices located wholly at the right of the needle as viewed from the front of the machine, a feeding mechanism including feed dogs for feeding the material across said cloth plate, feed bars at the right of the needle as viewed from the front of the machine for supportand operating said feed dogs, a cover plate including a horizontal portion and a ver tical portion for covering the operating mechanism for the loopers and feed underneath the cloth plate and in rear thereof, said horizontal and vertical portions of the cover plate being shaped so as to provide a clearance space for the fabric being stitched as it passes off the rear end of the cloth plate so as to permit small tubular articles to be stitched.

22. In a sewing machine, a cloth plate, a needle mounted to reciprocate in a line passing through the cloth plate adjacent the edge thereof, an under looper cooperating with the needle beneath the cloth plate, a supporting shaft for said under looper, means at the right of said shaft as viewed from the front of the machine for oscillating the same, an overedge looper cooperating with the under looper beneath the plane of the cloth plate and with the needle above the plane of the cloth plate, means for operating said overedge looper including devices located wholly at the right of the needle as viewed from the front of the machine, a feeding mechanism including feed dogs for feeding the material across said cloth plate, feed bars at the right of the needle as viewed from the front of the machine for supporting and operating said feed dogs, a cover plate including'a horizontal portion and a vertical portion for covering the operating mechanism for the loopers and feed underneath the cloth plate and in rear thereof, said horizontal and verti'al portions of the cover plate being shaped so as to provide a clearance space for the fabric being stitched as it passes off the rear end of the cloth plate so as to permit small. tubuluar articles to be stitched, said cover plate being mounted so that it may be swung away from the parts covered thereby to give access thereto.

23. In a sewing machine, a cloth plate. a needle mounted to reciprocate in a line passing through the cloth plate adjacent the edge thereof, an under looper cooperating with the needle beneath the cloth plate, a supporting shaft for said under looper, means at the right of said shaft as viewed from the front of the machine for oscillating the same, an overedge looper cooperating with the under looper beneath the plane of the cloth plate and with the needle above the plane of the cloth plate, means for operating said overedge looper including devices located wholly at the right of the needle as viewed from the front of the machine, a

feeding mechanism including feed dogs for feeding the material across said cloth plate, feed bars at the right of the needle as viewed from the front of the'machine for supporting and operating said feed dogs, a cover plate including a horizontal portion and a vertical portion for covering the operating mechanism for the loopers and feed underneath the cloth plate and in rear thereof, said horizontal and vertical portions of the cove-r 7 plate being shaped so a to provide a clearance space for the fabric being stitched as it passes off the rear end of the cloth plate so as to permit small tubular articles to be stitched, said cover plate being mounted so that it may be swung away from the parts covered thereby to give access thereto, a trimming mechanism including a movable trimming blade, and means for supporting and operating said movable trimming blade located at the right of the needle as viewed from the front of the machine.

24. In a sewing machine, a clothplate, a needle mounted to reciprocate in a line passing through the cloth plate adjacent the edge thereof, an under looper cooperating with the needlebeneath the cloth plate, a supporting shaft for said under looper, means at the right of said shaft as viewed from the front of the machine for oscillating the same, an overedge looper cooperating wit-l the under looper beneath the plane'ofthe cloth plate and with the needle above the plane of the cloth plate, means for operating said overedge looper including devices located wholly at the right of the needle as viewed from the front of the machine, a feeding mechanism including feed dogs for feeding the material across said cloth plate, feed bars at the right of the needle as viewed from the front of the machine for supporting and operating said feed dogs, acoverplate including a horizontal portion and a vertical portion for covering the operating mechanism for the loopers and feed underneath the cloth plate and in rear thereof, said horizontal and vertical portions of the cover plate being shaped so as to provide a clearance space for the fabric being stitched as it passes off the rear end of the cloth plate so as to permit small tubular articles to be stitched, said cover plate being mounted so that it may be swung away from the parts covered thereby to giveaccess thereto, 'a trimming mechanism including a movable trimming blade, means for supporting and operating said movable trimming blade located at the right of the needle as viewed from the front of the machine, a cover plate at the front of the machine, and a strip guide carried by said cover plate.

25. In a sewing machine, a cloth plate, overedge stitch forming mechanism, a trimmer for trimming the edge of the cloth in advance of the stitch forming mechanism a feeding mechanism including feed dogs operating through feed slots in the cloth plate, a presser foot cooperating with said feed d0gs,a main feed bar having a laterally offset'portion on which one of said feed dogs is bars for raising and lowering the same, a

cover plate having a horizontal portion and a vertical portion for covering the operating parts beneath the cloth plate, said vertical portion and said horizontal portion being shaped so as to provide a clearance space in rear of the cloth plate for the cloth being stitched, whereby said cloth may be led downwardlyand thence forwardly to the front of the machine and directed again over the. cloth plate, thereby trimming small tubular articles to be stitched.

26.- 'In a sewing machine, a work supporting plate, a rotating shaft, a reciprocating needle, a looper cooperating with said needle beneath the work supporting plate, a second looper alternately cooperating with said first named looper beneath the plane of said work supporting plate and with said needle above said i\ or'lrsiippoi'ting plate, means for actuating said needle and said second looper from said main shaft, themeans for actuating said second looper including a plurality of oscillating shafts arranged at substantially right angles to each other, one of said shafts supporting said looper and being mounted upon another of said shafts, and a single eccentric on said rotating shaft for actuating both of said oscillating shafts, the shaft supporting the looper deriving its movements from the shaft on which it is mounted. 27. In a sewing machine, the combination of a work supporting plate,'a main rotating shaft, a reciprocating needle, a thread carrying implement cooperating with said-needle beneath the, work support, an overedge thread carrying implement cooperating with said underthr'ead carrying implementbeneath the plane of the work support and withthe needle above the plane of the work support, andmeans forflmounting andv actuating said overedge thread carryingimplement including a shaft mounted for oscillation on a stationary part of the machine, means for oscillating said shaft, a second shaft mounted for oscillation on the first, named oscillating shaft, the longitudinal axis of said oscillating shafts being nonparallel, said second oscillating shaft deriving its oscillations from a link connected thereto and with a stationary partof the machine.

iUU

38. In a sewing machine, the combination of a work supporting plate, a main rotating shaft, a reciprocating needle, a looper cooperating with said needle beneath the work supporting plate and movable back and forth in a single plane substantially at right angles to the line of feed, an overedge car- -ying looper cooperating with said first named looper beneath the plane of the work supporting plate, and with the needle above the plane of the work supporting plate, means for mounting and actuating said overedge looper comprising a shaft mounted for oscillation on a stationary part of the machine, a second shaft mounted for oscillation on the first named shaft, the longitudinal axis of said oscillating shafts being substantially at right angles to each other, a single actuating member for oscillating said first named shaft, and devices whereby the oscillations of the first named shaft impart oscillations to the second named shaft, said overedge looper being carried by said second named oscillating shaft and moving from a point in rear of the looper cooperating with the needle beneath the work support to a point in front of the needle above the work support.

29. in a sewing machine the combination of a work supporting plate, a main rotating shaft, a reciprocating needle actuated by said main rotating shaft, a looper cooperating with. said needle beneath the work support and movable back and forth in a single plane substantially at right angles to the line of feed, means operated by said main rotating shaft for actuating said looper, an overedge looper cooperating with said first named looper beneath the plane of the work support and with the needle above the plane of the work support, a shaft mounted to oscillate in a stationary part of the machine about an axis parallel with the axis of said main rotating shaft, a second oscillating shaft'supporting said overedge looper and mounted on the first-named shaft to oscillate about an axis at right angles tosaid first named oscillating shaft, means actuated by said main shaft for oscillating said first named oscillating shaft and means whereby the oscillations of said shaft impart oscillations tothe shaft carrying said looper.

30. In a sewing machine the combination of a work support plate, a main rotating shaft, a reciprocating needle actuated by said main rotating shaft, a looper cooperatsees of the work support, a shaft mounted to oscillate in a stationary part of the machine about an axis parallel with the axis of said main rotating shaft, a second oscillating shaft supporting said overedge looper and mounted on the first named shaft to oscillate about an axis at right angles to said first named oscillating shaft, means actuated by said main shaft for oscillating said first named oscillating shaft, means whereby the oscillations of said shaft impart oscillations to the shaft carrying said looper, said oscillating shaft supporting the looper being located above the plane of the cloth plate.

31. In a sewing machine, the combination of a work supporting plate, a main rotating shaft, a reciprocating needle, a looper cooperating with said needle beneath the work supporting plate, an overedge looper cooperating with the first named looper beneath the plane of the work supporting plate and with the needle above the plane of the work supporting plate, and means for actuating said overedge looper whereby said looper is caused to move about axes at right angles to each other, whereby said looper is moved from a point in rear of the first named looper over the work plate to a point in front of the needle, and asingle eccentric for imparting the actuating movements to said overedge looper.

32. A sewing u'lachiue comprising a ro-- tating shaft, a. reciprocating needle bar, a needle carried thereby, an underthread carrying looper cooperating with said needle, means cooperating with said underthi'ead carrying looper beneath the cloth plate and with the needle above the cloth plate, a main shaft, an eccentrically located member carried thereby and devices actuated by said eccentrically located. member for reciproeating said needle and for oscillating said underthread carrying looper, said devices including means for giving said under thread carrying looper two reciprocations to each reciprocation of the needle.

In testimony whereof, I affix mysignature.

JOSEPH BERGER.