US166257A - Improvement in tailors measures - Google Patents

Description

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No. 166,257. Tailors" Measure- Patented Aug. 3,1875.

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UNITED STATES;

NPACLHNTY OFFIOH iJoHnfs.` OHAnoH, OF; DAYTON, OHIO.

iMPR'ovEMENT |N 'rAlLoRs MEASURES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. [66,25% dated August 3, 1875; application .tiled February. 4, 1875.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, JOHN S. CHAROH, of the city of Dayton, in the State of Ohio, have invented a Coat-Measure, used by tailors in cutting coats, of which the following is a specification The nature of my invention consists lin constructing an apparatus `of metallic plates adapted to the person iii such manner that accurate measurements are obtained by which a perfectly-fitting garment may be produced with an absolute certainty, the apparatus having orifices and numbered lines thereon from which exact measurements can be accurately noted.

The accompanying drawing is an elevation of the apparatus for measuring.

G represents a metallic strip of brass, the surface being divided by marks. indicating inches and fractions thereof, the inch-marks being numbered. As different sizes of the apparatus are used the length is adapted to each size. At the left end of this measure or tape the button o is secured, and this enters slots in the opposite end of the measure, these slots corresponding to the inch-marks of the measure. Upon this measure are placed two slides, M, which embrace the front and rear shoulder-plates A and B. All of these parts move freely within the slides.' The measure C gives the length in inches about the breast. D is a measure constructed identically as that described, but has no direct connection with the other parts, and is used as a waist-measure. When used it is put on over the other parts of the apparatus, and the advantage over the ordinary tape is that it preserves a direct horizontal line. H is a metallic strip constructed as heretofore described for a back measure, and is placed vertically along the center of the back, beneath the' breast and waist measure, which stays it in position, and is the only connection between this and the other parts. A is a metallic plate of the forni shown in the drawing. Near the top are a series of orifices, E, arranged parallel and one-half inch apart, and the spaces between each of the series are about one-half inch apart. The lines of the oriices and the upper edge which correspond are indicated vby the numerals l 2 3 4 5. The lower part is simply a measure constructed as heretofore described, and passes between the slide and the breast-measure. B is of the form shown in the drawing. It has a series of four holes, F, being nearly vertical, having lines running across each parallel with the upper edge, and one-half inch apart, the edge and lines being indicated by the numerals 5 6 .7 S 9. Beneath are four horizontal lines, G, indicated by the numerals l 2 3 4. These indicate the measurement'from shoulder to shoulder across the back. The lower part of this plate is simply a measure, and is arranged with reference to the breast-lneasure, precisely as that of the front shoulder-plate.

Several sizes of the apparatus are necessary to adapt the same to persons of varying sizes.

The use' of the apparatus is to obtain correct measurements ot' the body, and theapplication of the measurements to the diagram made on the cloth is similar to the usualmodes adopted by skilled cutters.

The manner of applying the apparatus to the person and noting the sizes on measurements, may be described thus: The shoulderplates are bent'toward each other, so as to embrace the shoulder, the breast-measure being brought-close up under the arm and fastened .with the button directly in front. The front and rear shoulder-plates are brought up in contact with the arm at the shoulderjoint; then note the measure for the breast and the points of intersection of the, two plates with the breast-measure. The back shoulderplate is carried over the front plate, and where the holes of the one meet the other, and

where the point of the rear plate meets the divisions on that plate. These points being noted, the position of the top shoulder-seam is determined. The band or measure D is put around the natural Waist, and then is noted the measure of the waist and the two points of crossing the front and rear shoulder-plates. Beneath the measures C and D is placed the measure H on the'- central line of the back and extending from the lower part of the neck downward. The intersection of this with the breast and waist measure is noted, and this completes the measurement for the body of the coat. The sleeve and sk irt measure is taken with the ordinary measuring-tape.

In preparing the diagram by the cutter the shoulder-plates are placed on the cloth, as represented by the figure.

The ordinary tape-measure may be used, instead of the Waist and back measure, in connection With the other parts, but the metallic measures are preferable, as they maintain their position more rigidly and their edges preserve direct lines.

What I claim as my invention is 1. The front shoulder-plate A, having a series of holes, E, and numerals on lines, as described, the rear shoulder-plate B having a series of holes, F, and corresponding lines and C, the Waist-measure D, and back-measure H,

substantially as and for the purpose specified.

JOHN S. CHARGE.

Witnesses:

B. ProKERi-NG, W. H. CLARK.v

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