US1656565A - Beaded welting - Google Patents

Description

Jan. 17, 1928. 1,656,565

H. LYON BEADED WELTING,

Filed April 26. 1924 Patented Jan. 17, 1928.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

HARRY LYON, OF BROCKTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO JOHN A. HARBOUR, 01H

BROOKLINE, MASSACHUSETTS, AND PERLEY E. BARIBOUR, OF QUINCY, MASSA- CHUSETTS, A COPARTNERSHIP UNDER PANY, OF BROCKTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

.THE NAME 01? BARBOUR WELTING COM- IBEADED WELTING.

Application filed April 26,

This invention relates to welting of that type known as cork-sole which comprises a rib or head, usually formed of material other than that of the welt body, upstanding from its upper face and lying, in the completed shoe. in a position closely engaging the outer face of the upper adjacent to its attachment to the insole and welt.

It is some times desirable that this head shall match the appearance of the upper rather than that of the upper face of the welt. V

This invention, therefore, provides a construction in which the exposed face of the bead may be formed of upper material or a simultation thereof.

It is also desirable that the rib or head =hall lie flat against the upper face of the welt and be held tightly thereto especially at its outer edge or the exposed end of its meeting plane with the welt body, there being a strong tendency for the rib to raise therefrom, particularly where the welt is sharply curved as where it passes about the toe portion of the shoe.

In the construction of this invention the bead is held down tightly along its outer edge to the upper face of the welt body.

For a more complete understanding of this invention reference may be had to the accompanying drawings in which Figure 1 is a cross section through a blank welt strip.

Figure 2 is a similar view showing the strip shaped in cross section for attachment thereto of the bead.

Figure 3 is a transverse section of a strip of core covering material of which the exposed face of the head is composed.

Figure 4 is a similar view showing the covering material strip stitched to the shaped blank.

Figure 5 is a cross section of a core or filler strip.

Figure 6 is a cross section of the completed welt.

Figure 7 is a fragmentary cross section through the edgeportion of a welt shoe showing the melt in position.

Figure 8 is a cross section of a partially beveled as at 2, a groove 3 being formed in 1924. Serial No. 709,224.

completed welt of a slightly modified construction.

Figure 9 is a cross section through the completed welt made according to this construction.

In Figure 1 is indicated a strip 1 rectan-' gular in cross. section. This strip may then be formed as in Figure 2, its inner edge being its lower face to receive the inseam stitches when the welt is sewed in place on the shoe. The upper face of the strip 1 may be cut away adjacent to its inner edge, as by the rabbet 4, to produce a shoulder 5, this being on the base portion of the welt. A strip which may be of upper material as leather 6, shown detached in Figure 3, is then superposed on the base strip with its grain or finished side overlying the face of the base strip and one edge portion passing down over the shoulder 5, if present, and overlying a portion of the upper face of the cut away portion 4' as shown in Figure 4:. This strip 6 is made fast to the base strip by means of a line of stitching 7 passing through both strips outwardly of the groove 3 and closely adjacent to the shoulder 5. Next a length of filler strip material 8, preferably of triangular cross section, shown detached in Figure 5, is placed on the strip 6 and overlying the cut away edge 4 inwardly of the stitch line 7 forming a core over which the strip 6 is then brought as a cover with its inner edge 9 brought down against the upper face of the base strip at its inner edge portion 4, this covering strip being preferably cemented both to the filler strip and against the base strip, this forming the completed beaded welt, as shown in Figure 6 with the bead lying substantially wholly within the cut away portion of the base strip inwardly of and bearing against the shoulder 5. By turning the covering strip over in this manner its prepared or grain side is presented outwardly and it isv held down 9 againstthe base strip outwardly of the inseam stitch line and adjacent to the outer edge of the bead by the line of stitching 7. This is shown particularly in Figure 7 in which the welt is shown in position on the shoe. By this construction the formation of an space between the bead and the upr ace of the strip due to the upward ending of the bead portion is entirely prevented. There is a strong tendency for separation of the bead and the base strip at the outer edge of the bead particularly where the welt is sharply curved as about the toe of the shoe. This is prevented by the present construction.

It will be noted that the inseam stitch line 10 passes through the stitching rib 11 of the innersole, the lining 12 and upper 13 of the shoe, through the inner edge of the strip material 6 as at 14, and through the base strip lying within the stitch receiving groove 3 thereof. The cementing of the strip 6 over the filler strip and against the upper face of the base is therefore not relied upon to hold the strip 6 in the finished shoe, but only until it is placed in position for the innerseam stitching to pass therethrough.

By this construction a head fitting firmly -between the upper face of the welt and the upper of the shoe is produced and by cutting away the foundation strip, as at 4, to substantially the thickness of the strip 6, the inner portion of the welt as applied to the shoe is of the same thickness as that out-' The outer wardly of the stitch receiving rib.

the usual sole 15 is attached to the welt by line of outsole stitching 16.

. If desired the filler stri may be united to the other parts by stitc ing, as shown in Figures 8 and 9. Where this is done the filler strip 8 and the covering strip 6 are stitched to the base strip in superposed relation by a line of stitching passing through the base outwardly of theinseam stitch receiving rib 3. The outer edge of the covering strip 6 is then turned over the filler strip, as indicated in Figure 9, and cemented thereto and to the upper face of the cut away portion 4. When the welt is made in this manner the inseam stitching passes through the inner edge portion of the covering strip 6 and lies within the groove 3 in the manner above described substantially along the dotted line 21, as shown in Figure 9, so that the bead is held firmly by stitching both at its outer and inner edges to the upper face of the welt.

It will be observed that in both forms of the beaded welt the securement of the bead along its outer edge to the base strip is wholly concealed from view. The shoulder 5 formed by cutting away the inner margin of the welt body will, when used, provide double insurance against an exposure of the bead securing seam under the strains tending to lift the head from the welt body, because the shoulder provides for sinking the fastening below the level of the face of the welt body. D Having thus described certain embodiof upper material stitch ments of this invention it should be evident to those skilled in the art that many changes and modifications might be made therein without departing from its spirit or scope as defined by the appended claims.

I claim:

1. A welt comprising a base strip and a bead fixed to one face thereof, said head comprisin a core and a covering of material separate rom said basestrip, and fixed to said base adjacent to its outer edge.

. 2. A. welt comprising a base strip having a bead fixed to one face thereof, said bead comprising a core and a covering strip of edge to said base outwardly of the inseam stitch line of the welt and adjacent to the I outer edge of said bead, the other edge of said covering strip being turned up and inwardl in osition for the inseam stitches to pass teret rough.

3. A welt comprisinga base strip having a cut away portion on its upper face forming a shoulder, and a strip of thin material stitched along one edge to said strip at the shoulder of said cut away portion, the opposite edge being turned up and inwardly and overlying the inneredge of said cut away portion and fixed thereto to form a -bead lying substantially wholly within said cutaway portion, the upper face of said opposite edge being in substantial alinement with the upper face of said base strip outwardl of said cut away portion.

4. g welt comprising a base strip having a cut away portion on its upper face, a strip of upper material stitched along one edge adjacent to the outer edge of said cut away portion, the opposite edge being turned up and inwardly and overlying the inner edge of said cut away portion and fixed thereto, the upper face of said opposite edge being in substantial alinement with the upper face of said base strip outwardly of said cut away portion, and a filler strip overlying the stitched edge of said upper material strip and wrapped about by said upper material strip said filler strip and upper ma 5. A welt comprising a base stri having a cut away portion on its upper co, and a strip ofupper material stitched alon one edge adjacent to the outer edge of sai cut away ortion and outwardly of the inseam stitch ine, the opposite edge bei turned up and inwardly and overlying t e inner e ge of said cut away portion and fixed thereto, the u per face of said opposite edge being in su stantial alinement with t 8 upper face of said base strip outwardly of saidcut away portion.

6. A welt comprising a base strip having a cut away portion on its eipper face, a strip along one edge ll adjacent to the outer edge of said cut away ortion and outwardly of the inseam stitch ine, the opposite edge being turned up and inwardly and overlying the inner edge of said cut away portion and fixed thereto, the upper face of said opposite edge being in substantial alinement with the 11 per face of said blank strip outwardly 0 said cutaway portion, and a filler strip overlying the stltched edge of said upper material strip and wrapped about by sa1d upper ma-. terial strip.

7. A welt comprising a base strip and a bead fixed to one face thereof, said bead com rising a strip of upper materialtand a fi er strip covered over thereby fixed to said blank strip by a line of stitching passed through the upper material and filler strip along the outer edge of said bead.

8. A welt comprising a base strip and a, bead fixed to one face thereof, said'bead comprising a strip of upper material and a filler strip covered over thereby fixed to said blank strip by a line of stitching passed through the upper material and filler strip outwardly of the inseam stitch line.

9. A welt comprising a base strip and a bead fixed to one face thereof, said bead comprising a strip of upper material and a filler strip covered over thereby fixed to said base strip by a line of stitching passed through the filler strip and one edge of the u per material strip along the outer edge of said bead and overlaid by the upper ma- .terial strip.

10. A welt comprising a base stri and a bead fixed to one face thereof, sald bead comprising a strip of upper material and a filler strip covered over thereby fixed to said base strip by a line of stitching passed through the filler strip and one edge of the upper material strip outwardly of the in,- seam stitch line and overlaid by the upper material strip.

11. A welt comprising a base strip having a cut away portion on its upper face along its inner edge, a strip of upper materiaLhaving its inner edge overlying the cut away portion of said base strip, a filler strip overlying said inner edge of said upper material strip, and a line of stitching passing through said filler, the upper material strip and base strip adjacent to the outer edge of said cut away portion and outwardly of the inseam stitch line, the opposite edge of said upper material strip being turned up and inward over said filler strip and cemented thereto and to said base strip, its upper face at the inner edge of said base stnp being in substantial alinement with the upper face of said base strip outwardly of said cut away portion.

12. 'A welt comprising a base strip and a bead, said head comprising a core and a covering strip fixed to said base strip at the outer edge of the bead by a fastening through said covering and base strips.

13. Welting of the cork-sole type comprising a body portion having a core and a folded covering-strip therefor forming a bead at the inner margin of the body portion, and bead-securing means through the under fold of said covering-strip adjacent the outer face of said bead and entering the body portion. I

14. Welting of the cork-sole type comprising a body portion having a bead at its inner margin, and stitching covered by material forming the bead for securing said bead adjacent its outer face to the body portion.

15. Welting comprising a base strip having a bead fixed to one face thereof, said bead comprising flexible strip material having one edge stitched to said base strip along a line outward of the inseam stitch line'of the welt and its other edge folded over said stitching toward the inner edge of the base strip.

16. Welting comprising a basestrip having a bead along its inner margin the outer face of which forms a shoulder, said bead being united to said base strip by a fastening passing through a portion of the bead at the base of and inside said shoulder and into the base stri ii e In testimony w ereof I have aflixed my signature. p

\ HARRY LY ON.

Images