US1655124A

US1655124A - Assiotor to

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Publication number: US1655124A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1928-01-03
Anticipated expiration: 1945-01-03

Description

Jan. 3, 1928. 1,655,124

H. A. BALLARD UPPER CREAS I NG Filed Aug. 9. 1923 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Jz/Fx Jan. 3, 1928.

H. A. BALLARD UPPER CREASING Filed Auz. 9, 1923 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Jan. 3, 1928 'UITED STATES PATENT OFFICE HARRIE A. BALLARD, F BOFJION, MAS SAOH'USETTS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE IMACHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATTERSON, NEW JERSEY, A. CORPURATION OF NEW JERSEY.

UPPER CREASING.

Application filed August 9, 1923.

This invention relates to upper creasing and more particularlyto the forming of an upstanding crease longitudinally of the toe oi a shoe.

In certain classes of shoes, especially those wherein a one-piece tip is used, it is desired to provide an upstanding crease extending longitudinally of the toe of the ewe as a.

decoration. This crease is known as a trouser crease, and it may extend as far forward as the welt crease of the shoe and as far rearward as the very top of the tongue. According to the dictates of fashion and the desires of the manufacturer, the

length of the crease will be varied between these limits. it such a crease is made in the upper before it is made up into a shoe, then it is iikely to become distorted and perhaps eliminated or entirely smoothed out in the lasting operation. rlccordingly, it is de sirable to provide some way ct creasing the upper after it has been incorporated in a finished shoe. In endeavoring to secure an upstanding crease of this character, various 2 arrangements have been suggested which have been unsatistactory for the reason that 7 they have always involved a rubbing action tending to burnish or glaze the surface of the upper adjacent the crease, thereby detracting from the desired appearance.

To avoid the disadvantagesresulting from the arrangements heretofore proposed, one object of the invention isto provide an improved method of producing a crease in the *upper of a shoe whereby said rease may be rendered permanent and any glazing or burnishing of the adjacent parts of the up per avoided. y

According to this novel method a section of the upper along the line of the desired crease is pinched together, and, according to the preferred procedure, a portion of the upper is first raised by pressure from within the shoe as by means of a supporting rib above the level of the remainder of the upper, is then pressed closely against the sides of the rib, and is thenseparated from the rib and pinched still more closely togetl'ier.

v Another object of the invention is to providc an improved machine for! forming a crease in the upper of a finishedshoe, such that the crease will stay permanently raised above the adjacent surface.

lVith this object in view, an important Serial No. 658,471.

feature of the invention comprises an arrangement. in which a supporting tree is provided with a thin rib 01' blade, whose longitudinal curvature corresponds to the curvature of the portion of the shoe which is to be creased, and a co-operating presser having a complementary curvature and adapted to press the upper over the blade and then against its sides. Preferably the presser member will be grooved to receive a part of the blade.

Another important: feature of the invention relates to the arrangement of an improved creasing tool whereby a rubbing action between it and the outer surface of the upper is avoided. tratedin the drawings and herein described, this result is secured by dividing the grooved creasingtool or presser member longitudi nally through the center of the groove and providing means for separating the parts of the grooved tool prior to the time when it is pressed against the shoe, or the leather of the shoe is forced up into the groove of the tool. Means are also provided for bringing together the co-operating partsof the pressermembers to pinch a strip of the leather into an upstanding crease which will be. permanent.

For a more complete understanding of the novel method and one form of apparatus bymeans of Winch it may be earned out, reference is bad to the following specification taken-in connection with the accom the line form of presser member;

Fig. 7 s a vertlcal section on the line 7-7 Fig. 8 1s anenlarged section showing the parts of thepresser member gripping a piece of Work against the upstanding rib or blade on the supporting tree; 7

In the construction illus- Fig. 9 is a similar view showing the parts of the presser member pinching a strip of the upper into an upstanding crease; and

Fig. 10 shows one type of shoe in which a trouser crease has been formed.

it supporting frame 10 is provided with an overhanging arm 12, Whose outer end 1% constitutes a vertical bearing for a sliding plunger 16 which is provided with a roller 18 at its upper end and wnich supports a presser member 20 at its lower end.

A work supporting tree 22 is detachably secured to the overhanging arm 12, and this tree is provided with a longitudinal rib or blade 24 having substantially parallel sides. The tree is preferably made with a triangular cross section, as shown in Fig. 4, to reduc its height while securing the necessary strength. Preferably the rib is formed by means of a separate blade inserted in a slot in the tree 22. This blade is slightly tapered alongits top edge, as shown in Pi 8, so that .it may be separated easily from the leather and is formed with a rounded edge in order that it may not cut the leather.

Vertical movement of the plunger 16 to cause the presser member 20 to approach and recede from the W01"; may be secured by means of any suitable apparatus such as that illustrated in Patent No. 1,002,393, issued September .5, 1911, upon the application of John S. Hansen; Briefly this comprises a three-arm actuating lever 29 pivoted at 30 in the frame of the machine and having its lower arm 32 provided with a depending bar 84 to which is adjustably secured a foot treadle To the upper arm 88 of said lever there is pivotally attached a horizontal member 4.0 supported upon links 42 and pro- .vided with an extension 44: having a rounded end adapted to co-operate With the roller 18 todepress the plunger. Springs 46 are 'ar ranged to retract the actuating member 40, and by'reason of the connection of this me1nher with the upstanding arm 88, they Will rotate said lever in a counter-clockwise di rection, as viewed in Fig. 1. The third arm 50-01 said lever projects forwardly and cooperates with a projection 52 extending inwardly from the plunger 16 and overlying the end of the arm 50. i

Any suitable means may be provided for heating the presser member, and such means is indicated as comprising a metal piece 5% detachably secured at 56 to the bearing 1% and provided with a vertical face 58 resting against the face of the plunger 16. Electric cartridge heating units 60 may be utilized to supply heat to this member.

The presser member preferably comprises a bearing member 62 having a vertical flange (Fig. 5) designed to be received in a slot in the plunger 16 and secured thereto by a set screw-'66. "The grippers and 72 of the presser memberare provided with ears T4 and 76 by means of which they are pivotally mounted upon a longitudinal pivot 78 traversing said bearing member (32. Recesses or notches are cut in the eo-operating meeting edges of the lower side of said grippers to term a groove 80 running throughout the length ot the lower edge of said presser member to receive and crease the fold oi an upper. 'lhese recessed grippers are designed to do press a portion of the upper over the rib and grip it there againstas indicated in hi 8. it should be noted that the longitudinal curvature of the rib 2-1.- is substantially the some as the curvature of the rabbeted edges of the presser member, and that the extent of the presscr member will vary in accordance with the type of shoe to be handled and the distance along the toe of the shoe over which it is intendeo to erm a crease.

in order iroreibly to urge the grippers to nether,

studs

82 and 84; are mounted in corresponding apertures in said grippers and are provided with springs 86 bearing at one end age inst the nuts 88 on suit studs and at the other end against the side of the gripper. desired, set screws 90 may be used for intaining the position of the heads oil? d s uds.

When the presser member is being lowered to push the major portion oi the upper below the top of the upstanding rib 24', it is desirable to separate the grippers in order to avoid any rubbing action and consequent burnishing of the leather, and for this purpose there is provided a headed stud or button 2, (Fig. 5) the shank oit' which passes through the gripper 70 and is arranged with its head bearing against the gripper T2. 11 hand lever 9% is pivot-ally mounted 9b formed on exterior of the T0 and is arranged with a latu'al portion 98 2) bearing again 1; nl: of the button 92 and another lateral portion 100 bearing against the face of the gripper C 0. The deflection of said lever 713; toward the t of the machine will cause sepairont ration the grippers.

For some purposes i'nay be for factory to constriiact the device in the n .inner illustrated in (S and 7." in "which one gilppe 1.5.4 ()1 illG picsrcr 111G111) rOI'liiQCl integrally with the supportin while the other gripuer 1T0 is means or the headed studs Springs 188 and a. lever 19'- tunctiors flange 16% supported by 132 and 153i. perform their in a similar manner as fer-red lorm, and the :ncetin" grippers are grooved at 180 t are the meeting edges of the gripp of the preferred embodiment.

When the type of sho blucher such as is illusti 10, it may be desired to the extreme end of the to oeiug creased is a ted at in Fig. orm a crease from through the vamp inc and whole length of the tongue. In such a case the shoe will be mounted upon the supporting tree 22 in the position indicated in Fig. 1, and the operator will depress the treadle to cause a rotation of the three-way lever 29 and consequent depression of the forwardly extending member 50. This will allow the plunger 16 carrying; the presser member 20 to fall of its own weight and the operator will at the same time deflect the handle of the lever 94: toward the front so as to open by a substantial amount the groove 80 between the grippers and 72. As the operator continues to depress the treadle to cause a rotation of the actuating lever 29, the extension 44- will come in contact with the roller 18 on the plunger 16, as indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 1, and forcibly depress the separated grippers against the work at each sideo'f the rib 2a of the supporting tree. This will raise a strip of the work into the enlarged groove80, and whenthe operator then releases the handle of the lever 94, the springs 86 will cause the

grippers

70 and 72 to press the work tightly against the side edges of the rib or blade 24E whicu extends lengthwise of and is shaped complementarily to the groove in said presser member. After ashort interval, he will partially release the treadle of the machine and allow the springs 46 to retract the extension n and slightly to raise the plunger through the co action of the parts 50 and 52. Partially owing to the fact that the presser member 20 is heated, the tendency is for the work to be separated from the rib 2a and to remain in gether and thereby to pinch, together the raised strip of the upper and permanently to set the upstanding crease 112 in the shoe. After the work has remained within the groove of the presser members for the desired intervahthe operator will again dethe toe of a finished shoe, relatively sepashoe, and consequently there is no bur11ishi ing or streaking of the work. It will be obvious that the shape of the longitudinal curvature of the presser member and that of the rib 24 may be varied to suit the particular style of shoe to be treated. Minor changes may be made in the manner of carrying out the method or of constructing a machine without departing from the spirit of the in vention. i

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent oi the United States is 1. The method of producing a crease in the toe of a finished shoe which consists in raising a portion of the upper along the line of the desired crease by pressure from within the shoe and pinching together the raiser portion so that an upstanding ridge or crease will be formed.

2. The method oi producing a crease in the upper of a finished shoe which consists in raising a portion of the upper above the level of the remainder of the upper, and applying heated members to exert lateral pres sure against the sides of the raised portion to form an upstanding crease in the leather.

3. The method of producing a crease in the upper of a shoe which consists in supporting the upper upon a rib, pressing the upper closely against the sides of the rib, separating the upper from the rib, and pinching together the portion of the upper against which pressure has been exerted.

4. in a machine for forming an upstancb ing crease along the toe of a finished shoe, a supporting free adapted for insertion within the shoe, .aid tree being provided with a thin rib or blade whose longitudinal curvature corresponds to the curvature of the portion of the shoe which is to be creased, said rib having substantially parallel sides and being arranged lengthwise of the shoe, and opposed means disposed outside the shoe for pressing the upper over said blade and then against its sides, said means having a curvature which is complementary to the curvature of the blade.

In an upper creasing machine, a sup porting tree provided with a narrow rib, said tree being adapted for insertion in a finished shoe, a grooved presser member arranged ior cooperation ,with said ribbed tree, meansto enlarge the groove of said presser member, and means to bring the presser member-into co-operative relation with the tree.

In a machine for forming a crease along rable grippers disposed outside the shoe and. means arranged for insertion within the shoe constructed and arranged to present a portion of the upper of theshoe in the space between said grippers. I

7. lln a machine for forming a creasein the toe of a finished shoe, a ribbed supporting member, and divided presser means disposed outside a shoe andhaving a pivoted jaw, said presser means being constructed and arranged to force a portion of the up per of the shoe over the rib of the support.

8. In an upper creasing machine, a di-" vided presser member the parts of which are notched to provide co-operating recesses of a limited depth. along their meeting edges arranged to receive and crease a fold of an upper.

9. In an upper creasing machine, a divided presser member having two parts the corners of which are each cut away to'provide co-operating recesses or" a limited vided presscr member having two parts the adjacent faces of which are rabbeted to provide co-operating recesses of a lin ited depth along their meeting edges arranged to receive and crease a told of an upper, means for urging the sections ot said presser men ber together, and means tor moving said sections apart.

12. In an upper creasing machine, a divided prcsser member the parts of which are provided with co-opera" recesses of a limited depth along their meeting edges arranged to receive and crease a told of an upper, and means for forcing the work into the groove formed by said recesses.

13. In an upper creasing machine, a presser member divided into grippers provided with copperatimr recesses along the meeting edges of said grippers, a rib for forcing the Work into the groove formed by the recesses in the adjacent edges of the grippers, means urging said grippers together, and means for removing the rib constructed and arranged to allow the work t remain in the groove termed in the grippers, whereby said-grippers will be allowed to approach closely together and firmly impress an upstanding crease in' the surf see of the Work.

14. In a machine for forming a crease in a finished shoe, creasing members arranged to be disposed outside the shoe and having rablooted. ed 'es shaoed to'conform to the currature of the portion of the wort: to be creased, and'means for moving said members apart to allow the introduction therebetween ot a portion of theworl; to be creased.

15. Ina machine for forming a crease in a finished shoe, creasing members arranged to be disposed outside the shoeand having rabbets along their cooperating edges shaped to conform to the curvature of the portion of the Work to be creased, means including a lever for separating saidinembers to allow the introduction therebetween of a portion of the Work to be creased, and'resilient means urgin said creasing members together.

' 16. In a machine for forming acrease in a finished. shoe, creasing members arranged outside a shoe and shaped to conform to the curvature of the portion of the work to be creased, means for separating said members to allow the introduction therobetwcen 0t tie work to be creased, and a similarly shaped ribbed member arranged to be inserted within the shoe and to UO-OPQl'Lll'C with said creasing members in introducing the work within the creasing members.

1?. 7 a much forming a crease Homily of the toe of a finished shoe, oved a gro creasing member shaped to con fo m to the curvature ot the toe oi the shoe,

.i H i bepillticGtr DUL JJ (v in the voile in an unpcr creasing machine, a press-er uremier comprising g3..lP 'PO1S plO min i'- recesses tiorming a,

:o operatio iove along; 1' e n'lecting edges of said grip pers, a "ud passing through said ssion spring surrounding red to force the grippers totoe passing through one grip- -ainst the inner taco ot' the pe id a hand lover pivoted to gripper constructed and arranged said button in order to separate 's to enlarge the groove.

20. in an upper creasing machine, a supporting frame provi ,c l with a tree adapted to support a. finished shoe, a plunger 1nov able said frame, a creas no member sup ported on said plunger, aid creasing member beirr provided with a movable part, means for moving e id 1 ter part away from the other part ot he creasing i'uember to 'llow the introduction of a piece of the worl; therebet veen, and means for urging the parts of said creasing men; ver to ard one another.

21. In an upper creas' hine, a supporting frame, tree on said i lapted said I for insertion in finished shoe, said tree being provided vi'ilh a blade shaped to form a tree conforming to the curvature do of HARE-IE A. KALLARD.

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