US1195967A

US1195967A - Preliminary former for foreparts of shoe-uppers

Info

Publication number: US1195967A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1916-08-29
Anticipated expiration: 1933-08-29

Description

M. BROCK.

PRELIMINARY FORMER FOR FOREPARTS 0F SHOE UPPERS.

APPLICATION FILED AUG-10,1912.

Patented Aug. 29, 1916.

3 SHEETSSHEET I.

Illllll IT lllll m 1.. n 1 1 31 I J A .J n 1 w II. l

M. BROOK.

PRELIMINARY FORMER FOR FOBEP ARTS 0F SHOE UPPERS.

APPLICATION FILED AUG- 10. 1912.

I 0 i, ZFIgZ Fig.3.

Fig.4.

Patented Aug. 29, 1916.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

M. BR OCK.

PRELIMINARY FORMER FOR FOREPARTS 0F SHOE UPPERS.

APPLICATION FILED AUG. 10, I912.

Patented Aug. 29, 1916.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3- 4 UNITED STATES PATENT omen.

MATTHIAS BROCK, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIG-NOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

Specification of Letters Patent.

' Patented Aug. 29. 1916.

Application filed August 10, 1912. Serial No. 714,452.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, MAI'IHIAS citizen of the United States, residin at Boston, in the county of Suffolk and tate of Massachusetts, have invented certain Improvements in Preliminary Formers for Foreparts of Shoe-Uppers, of which the following description, in connection W1tl'1 the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures. r

This invention relates to shoe upper shaping machines and has for one object to provide certain improvements upon the machine shown in my earlier application Serial No. 663,393 filed December 1, 1911 for machine for preliminarily molding toe portions of shoe uppers.

An important feature of this present invention consists in novel provision for sub jecting the work to the action of heat, or of heat and moisture, during the shaping operation. By heating the lining, the toe stiffening and the vamp, the upper is rendered more responsive to the shaping action of the machine. By moistening the stock while it is being shaped it is softened so that it stretches and is molded with less straining and with less danger of rupturing the fibers of the stock than would otherwise occur. Advantageously, but not necessarily,

BRooK, a

- both heat and moisture are used and when so used the heating and the moistening operations are closely related and although the heating may well begin in advance of the moistening, it preferably continues during the application of moisture and it may well continue after the delivery of moisture,

thereby facilitating the distribution of the moisture and also setting the stock in its shaped condition or causing the stock to acquire more or less permanently the contour of the form over which it has been shaped. \Vith these ends in view the inside shaping member or forepart former is formed with apertures through which steam is delivered to the shoe lining through which it passes to the toe stiffening material and to the vamp which is being shaped. For this purpose the forepart former may conveniently .be constructed and can be operated substantially as hereinafter described. The supply of steam may advantageously be'non-continuous and be'n'iade to occur only during the time, ora portion of the time, when the upper is being shaped. The former will be heated by the steam so that during the anra-ngement of the work over the former preliminary to the operation of the machine, as well as while the work remainson the machine to set, heat will be imparted by the forepart former to the work.

In accordance with another feature of this invention the shaping of the work is made more effective by compression upon that face of the upper materials which is opposed to the forepart former. Preferably also, this compression member is heated so that the stock, after having been stretched and shaped over a former, is caused to set, or acquire more or less permanently the shape of the former, by standing under pressure between two heated members. Provision is made for maintaining the compression member out of engagement with the work while the stretching of the vamp for shaping it is in progress, so that said member will offer no resistance or retardation to the free stretching of the vamp, for alternatively the pressure member may be brought into use in time to prevent forward displacement of the stock from the direction of the toe tip seam while the'vamp is being stretched over the top face of the forepart form.

An important feature of this invention consists in means for shaping the margin of the vamp. The marginal portion of a shoe vamp, cut as the vamp is 'from sheet stock and stitched'to-the quarters, etc;, of

the upper, flares outwardly from the side of the last at an angle of something like 45, on the average. In this position it is inconvenient to engage the grippersof the pulling-over and the lasting machines with the vamp in the operations of those machines,

and the operator has to place the upper in each of the pulling-over machine grippers,

Moreover, the edge line of the margin is much longer than the edge line of the last bottom and the margin presents a quantity of surplus stock to be plaited and otherwise disposed of in'lasting it over upon the last bottom, and in the heavier grades of shoes it is necessary to cut away thesurplus in order to form a face level enough tolay the outsole upon. It is an object of this feature of the invention to reduce these difficulties,

and further objects of this portion of the invention are to efiect economies .in vamp stock and toimprove the shoe. To these ends this feature of the invention provides means for shaping the margin of the vamp, so that it will stand parallel or more nearly parallel to the side faces of the last than itv the means shown comprises a table upon.

which the vamp is clamped on'a line at the inner edge of its margin by a U-shaped upupward thrust of the forepart former -;through an opening in the table and into; the U-shaped clampingmember, all as in' my earlier machine. Instead. of releasing the work-at the end of the toe shaping op- -e'ration the forepart'former is herein, forced; fifarther upwardly simultaneously with a slight relief of the pressure with which the" ill-shaped member clamps the inner edge of the margin. 7 The marginal portion of the vamp is drawn, under tension, under and upwardly within the U-shaped clamp member. This action shapes the'margin to a position more nearly parallel with the sides of the last so that pulling-over and lasting of the shoe is facilitated. It also stretches the margin widthwise in away to extend it so that a smaller pattern of vamp will afford stockenough to be conveniently seized by the grippers of the pulling-over machine and the lasting machine and drawn over upon the shoe bottom far enough to fasten-,-

thereby=.;.aahling an economy. in stock to be effected. The operation of drawing the flan ing margin of the vamp inwardly under the edge of the U-shaped clamping member reduces the thickness of the vamp margin so that the stock lies more closely to the last at and over the edge of the shoe. Also the shoes herein disclosed are not claimed in this application but form the subject-matter of a divisional application, Ser. No. 50,680,

filed Sept. 14, 1915.

The several features of the invention above outlined and others, including certain more and will then be pointed outin'the claims at the end of the description.

tion of a machine embodying this invention; Fig. 2 is a central vertical section, from front to rear, of the upperportion of the" machine showing the work spread over the heated jfo'repart former which'with the table has been, raised to clamp the stock against 'theU-sha'ped upper clamp member, and, in this v1ew-I have, illustrated the upper compression member. as lowered, into engage- .ment with the work although this may not per clamping member. The work is held'by." these members while being shaped bythe 'springs associated with the valve the valve maybe made to open in response to avery light pressure on the forepart former. Fig. 3 shows the forepart former further raised and thrust through the table and into the U-shaped clamp member to stretch the stock and shape it to the contour of said forepart form. It maybe noted that under this pres sure the steam valve has been opened. Fig. 4 shows, in a similar view, the position as sumed while the vamp margin is being drawn from between the upper clamping members to stretch and to shape it. Fig. 5- 1s a detail showing means for gathering the marginv of the stock'from the ball portionof the vamp forwardly toward the toeas the margin is being shaped. Fig. 6 is a perspective view further illustrating the same. F ig.-7 is a perspective view of one formation of forepart former in accordance with this invention. Fig. 8 shows, by dotted and full lines, the toe of a vamp before and after being operated upon. Fig. 9 is'a detail of the treadle control.

The machine, which is shown as operated by foot power, comprises a column in which is guided a vertically sliding head 2 upon a top face 4- of which a table 6 is supported by a wedge 8 in a position conveniently inclined forwardly to facilitate the presentation of the work. The table is apertured to permit the movement of the forepart former l0 upwardly through it, said former being conveniently made double ended for shaping Vamps for right and left shoes. The former is supported at a similar inclination to that '70 In the drawings,-Figure '1 is a side elevaof the table and u on a plunger 12 which,

extends through guides 13, 14in the head 2 to a link 15 by which it is connected to the short arm of a bell crank 16 operated by the treadle 18. A spring 20 is confined on the plunger between the guide 13 on the vertically movable head and a collar 21 which serves as a step the bearing 14: to limit the downward movement of the former relatively to the head 2. WVhen the plunger is raised by the treadle, it acts through the spring to raise the head 2 with the former -10 from the position, Fig. 1, until the margin of the vamp is clamped between the table and a clamp member 25, as in Fig. 2, whereupon the spring 20 begins to compress while the plunger and the former continue to rise and the former to be thrust upwardly against and into the unconfined portion of the vamp.-

The clamp member 25 is of approximately U-shape in that it is open at its rear end and at its front end is curved to conform to the edge line of the cooperating portion of the former 10. It is detachably secured by spring pins'2 7 to the frame with itsupper edge abutted against a lower face of the top portion of the machine frame. As thus far described, this machine resembles that shown in my earlier application except that the wedge 8 is new as is also the position of the table 6, 'etc., at an inclination to the horizontal.

The forepart former is herein shown as containing a steam chamber by which it is heated and the upper, spread over it preparatory to being clamped and stretched, is heated. The former has numerous perforations through its vamp, or lining, engaging walls by which steam, is conducted to the work for further heating the work and moistening it. The plunger 12 is made tu-' bular in its upper portion to receive, steam from a pipe 26 and in the upper endof the plunger is a valve 30 normally held closed by a spring 28. The forepart form 10 has a tubular locating stud 11 which is-adapted to be pressed down upon the valve head,

Figs. 2 and 7, and springs 32 sustainflnormally the weight of the forepart former 10 as in Fig. 2. The valve is therefore responsive to pressure, which may be applied by the hands of the operator, or by the member 40 later described, to the former 10 after the forepart of the vamp is spread over it.

Vhen thevalve is opened. the apparatus operates to inject steam or heated vapor between the former and the side of the vamp which istoward it to soften the upper materials. This may be effected to any desired extent preparatory to the shaping operation. However, the upper stretching force applied in raising the plunger 12 and former 10 overcomes the springs 32 and opens the valve and holds it open so that steam is appliedcontinuously while the vamp is being stretched.

Above the forepart former 10 is an upper compression member 40 having a lower vamp engaging face of the same contour as the top face of the former 10.

up and down in a. vertically adjustable This is. 'mounted on a sleeve stem 42 that can slide bearing 43 in the top of the frame and has a pawl 44 for engagement with the teeth of a pivoted ratchet lever 45 acted on by a spring 46. The compression member is forced downwardly by its own weight and a spring 48. The end of each operation of the machine leaves it upraised as in Fig. 1 Where it is held by the ratchet lever 45 out of the way during the removal of the molded vamp and the arrangement of the next vamp in position to be operated upon. Vhen the vamp has been spread over the former 10 with its margin between the

members

25, 6 and at any selected time after that,. as for example, at the beginning of the stretching movement illustrated in Fig. 2, or at the end of the main stretching movement, illustrated in Fig. 3, the lever 45 can be pulled away from the pawl to allow member 40 to descend into compressing engagement with the vamp and assist in shaping the vamp. The weight of member 40 and the force of its spring 48 is enough to overcome springs 32 and open valve 30. Steam is supplied to said member i0 by a pipe 50 leading down through the stem 42 and from said member the steam is led by a pipe and a flexible tube 52 which connects with the pipe 26 and the plunger 12, by

which arrangement steam is supplied to the temperature to cause the desired moistening and heating of the work without injury to the stock. The member 40 may obviously be heated electrically as in Fig. 5.

The treadle 18 has a lost motion connection with the wedge 8 through a slotted link 60, a lever 62 and a link 64, the lever being fulcrumed upon an arm 65 of the head 2 that carries the wedge, etc., up and down. The wedgecarries, Figs. '5 and 6, teeth 66 which extend upwardly through an elongated slot in the table 6 and against which the margin of the vamp is gripped by the U-shaped clamping member 25 at about the location of the tip seam ends. The said member 25 may or may not be provided with cooperating teeth formed on the lower edge of a swinging plate 68, suspended from said member, 25 by parallel links 70 acted upon by a spring 72 to return the plate from the Fig. 5 position to the position shown in Fig. 6.

Through its connection with the treadle 18 the wedge 8 is retracted relatively to the table 8, which is leld from lengthwise movement by pins 74, a limited distance (compare Figs. 3 and 4) as the forepart former 10 reaches its position Fig. 4, of full insertion into the vamp. The eiiectof this retraction of the wedge is to cause the teeth 66, with or without the aid. of the plate 68,

to draw the ends of the tip seam forwardly. This compensates for any forward displacement of the tip seam over the top of the toe which the "tensionin of the u oer forwardly .over the toe may have, produced as the former l0 was'being thrust upwardly nto the vamp. It also forces the stoclglofthe vamp margin forwardly in the direption to-upset it or to reduce the length of its edge lihe around the toe. Furthermore it exerts on the vamp a draft tending to draw down to the last the portion that extends over the low part of the lastback of the toe.

A treadle catch 75 with ratchet teeth on itsedge is arranged to engage the treadle 18 and lock it in the partially depressed position corresponding to the positionof the parts in Fig. 3 while the vamp sets prior to the complete depression to bring the parts into the position shown in Fig. 4. The treadle 18 may carry'a stop 76 pivoted to it and adapted to be turned by a lateral movement of the foot from the dotted line position, in which it is normally ,held by a spring, into the full line position shown in the drawings where it will engage the floor before the treadle is fully depressed and thus enable the operator accurately to discontinue the initial treadle depression at the desired point. The stop willbe swung up again by its spring, when the spring is permitted to do so, and then the operator can complete the depression of the treadle.

In using the machine an operator spreads the forepart of anupper, including preferably the lining and it may be the toe stifiening material as well as the vamp, over the heated 'forepart former 10 while the parts are in the position, Fig. 1. For positioning the work,Y gaging devices such as those shown in my prior application, or

others, may or may not be used. If desired,

the vamp may be steamed to soften it before the margin is clamped. For this purpose the valve 30 may be opened by depressing the former 10 either by the hand of the operator or by releasing the compression member 40 from its catch 45 and allowing it to overcome the valve closing springs 32. When the treadle 18 is depressed the head 2 with the table 6 as well as the former 10 is raised until the margin .of the vamp is clamped against the lower edge of the U- shaped clamping member 25 after which the spring 20 yields while the former 10 proceeds upwardly to stretch and shape the work. During the movement of the former after the margin of the vamp has been gripped, if not before the resistance of passing through the lining to moisten the means? vamp. The valve preferably is held opex. while the work remains under tension, and the steam former and through the lining thor ughly moistens the vam while it is under tension and shaping strain over the former and thereby assists the stock to set, or acquire more or less former. The top compressor 40, which is latched up as in Fig. 1 when the work is inserted, is released after the margin of the vamp has been clamped, if it has not been released before, and is allowed to act by pressure upon the top of the toe to assist in shaping it. The top compressor also tends to prevent forward displacement of the vamp over the top of the former if it is brought into use during or prior to the stretching of the vamp by'the former 10. The extent of depression of the treadle required to bring the lower face of the former 10 flush with the table the treadle stop 76 and in a plurality of intermittent depressions, if desired, between which the treadle may be locked by the teeth on the ratchet bar 75. Before the final depression is completed the wedge 8 is withdrawn far enough to efl'ect the forward displacement of the tip seam ends by the teeth 66.

After the work has stood under tension and pressure until it is sufficiently set, the treadle is depr ssed to effect the shaping of the margin 80 of the vamp from the position it occupies in Fig. 3 to that which it occupies in Fig. 4. For this purpose a withdrawal of the wedge 8 by the treadle is made to relieve the force with which the margin of the vamp is clamped just sufiiciently so that the margin can pull out from under the edge of the U-shaped member 25 under vary substantial friction which will stretch the margin materially and reduce its thickness. Around the toe the length of the edge line of the vamp margin is also much reduced by drawing'it under and into the relatively smaller U-shaped member 25 so that the vamp comes out in the shape shown in Fig. 8 with the margin in position and condition to be operated upon by the pulling over and the lasting machine grippers much more conveniently than could have been done with the unshaped upper, as shown by the contrasting lines in Fig. 8. The spring 20 compels the head 2 and table to maintain the required degree of clamping action on the margin of the stock while the wedge is being withdrawn and the formeris being raised to the position shown in Fig. 4:. The pins 74 may engage the lower face oftheframe top against which clamping member 25 abuts in time relation with the withdrawal of the wedge 8 to prevent the spring 20 from applying excessive clamping pressure which would prevent the margin of the upper from passing through the holes 'n the.

permanently, the shape of the pulling between the clamp member 25 and the table 6 at the right time to prevent injury to the stock. It is within the contemplation of this invention to reduce the grip on the margin of the vamp only enough so that it will begin to pull between the

members

25 and 6 and then to discontinue further relief, or to increase the relief only slowly as may be required, to allow the margin to pull through with the requisite drawing out and shaping eifectwithout injuring the stock. Detail mechanism for accomplishing this purpose and governing the relative movement of the wedge 8 or the like and the former 10 will be shown and described in another application.

It will be apparent that in the operation of this machine after the margin of the toe portion of a vamp has been clamped by the U-shap'ed member 25 on a line approximating the line on which the vamp will be folded over the edge of the last bottom in the lasting operation, the unconfined portion of the toe is engaged and the margin is drawn through the clamping means, under and into the smaller perimeter of the member 25, whereby it is stretched widthwise and its outer edge line is shortened and it isbent or reshaped into an upright flange adapted. to stand substantially perpendicular to the plane 'ofthe last bottom for the convenient engagement therewith of the grippers of a pulling-over machine. This operation resembles the sheet metal making operation of drawing between-dies to shape the margin of a blank into the upstanding flange of abox cover or the like with an accompanying widthwise stretching of the flange and a material shortening of edge line from the original circumference of the blank to the circumference of .the finished box cover. This operation has not, however, been attempted in shoe upper shaping so far as I am aware and I desire to be understood as claiming for this feature of the invention in shoe making the full protection to which I am entitled under the circumstances.

Full depression of the treadle may be maintained by a tooth on ratchet if desired, and such depression forcesthe several parts into the position, Fig. 4:, where the top compression member 40 is locked by its ratchet lever 45 until again released manually. Upon release of the treadle the expansion of spring 20 and the weight of the head 2 and the parts carried by it restores the machine to the condition shown in Fig. 1.

While the invention is shown as embodied in a machine for shaping uppers preparatory to lasting the shoes, some features of the invention are applicable tolasting machines, and such. use is to be protected by the an nexed claims.

Having explained this invention and fully described a preferred construction embodying the same, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States:

1. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means for confining the margin of the forepart of a shoe vamp, a forepart former arranged to engage the unconfined portion of the Vamp to stretch it, and means to apply moisture to the side of the vamp which is toward the former.

2. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means for confining the margin of the forepart of ashoe vamp, a forepart former arranged to engage the unconfined portion of the vamp to stretch it, and means to apply heat and moisture to the Vamp through said former.

3. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means for confining the margin of the forepart of a shoe vamp, and a forepart former arranged to engage the unconfined portion of the vamp to stretch it, said former being constructed and arranged to conduct steam to and distribute it over the surface of the work engaged by the former.

4. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means for confining the margin of the forepart of a shoe vamp, and

a forepart former arranged to engage the unconfined portion of the vamp to stretch it, said former having a steam chamber and a multitude of perforations through its work engaging face, and means arranged to deliver steam through said former to heat the former and'moisten the stock.

5. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means for confining the margin of the forepart of a shoe vamp, a forepart former arranged to engage the unconfined portion of the vamp to stretch it, and means operating automatically when the former is forced against the stock to apply moisture to the stock.

6. A machine of theclass described having, in combination, means for confining the margin of "the forepart of a shoe vamp, a forepart former arranged to engage thev unconfined portion of the vamp to stretch it, said former being constructed and arranged to conduct steam to and distribute it over the surface of the we k engagedby the former, and a valve arranged to be opened to admit steam to the former when the former is forced against the stock.

7. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means for confining the margin of the forepart of a shoe vamp, a forepart former arranged to engage the unconfined portion of the vamp tostretch it, atubl'ilar plunger upon which the former is supported, springs interposed between the plunger and'the former, and a valve in the plunger to admit steam to the former when come.

8. A machine of the class described-having, in combination, Indians for confining the margin of the forepart of a shoe vamp, a forepart former arranged to engage the unconfined portion of the vamp to stretch it, and pressure applying means for applying heat to the face of the vamp opposite the face engaged by the former. A machineof the class described having, in combination, means for confining the margin of the forepart of a shoe vamp, a forepart former arranged to engage the unconfined portion of the vamp to stretch it, and means arranged to apply heat and compression to the top face of the toe portion of the vamp while it is under tension over the former. I 10. A machine of the class described hav ing, in combination, means for confining the margin of the forepart of a shoe vamp, a vamp former arranged to engage the unconfined portion of the vamp to stretch it, and means movable to apply compression to the top face of the forepart of the vamp while it is under tension over the former. 11. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means for confining the margin of the forepart of a shoe upper, a forepart former arranged to be forced against the unconfined portion of the work to stretch it, and a compression member arranged for movement to engage a face of the Work opposed'to the former and shaped to fit over the toe end of the vamp in position to 'axist in molding the toe stiffening material of the shoe to he shape of the forepart former.

12. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means for confining the margin of the forepart of a shoe upper, a forepart former arranged to be forced against the unconfined portion of the Work to stretch it, a compression member arranged to engage a face of'the work opposed to the former, and means to heat the work through one of said engaging members.

13. A machine of the class described'having, in combination, means for confining the margin of the forepart of a shoe upper, a forepart former arranged to be forced against the unconfined portion of the Wdrk to stretch it, and an outer toe shaping member 40 arranged for movement to cooperate with the former, substantially as described, for imparting to the toe portion of the vamp preliminary to lasting a shape approximating that which the vamp is to have in the shoe of which it is to form a part.

14. A machine for shaping shoe uppers preliminary to lasting having, in combination, an inside forepart former over which the forepart of the upper is to be stretched, means cooperating with the inside former for stretching the upper, and an outside former constructed and arranged to engage the Work over the top of the end portion of the toe and adapted to be moved for compressing and shaping the stretched upperupon the inside formera 15. A machine for shaping shoe uppers preliminary to lasting having, in combina- .t1on, an inside former over which the forepart of the upper is to be stretched, an outside former constructed and arranged to engage the work over the'top of the end portion of the toe and adapted to *be moved for compressing and shaping the-stretched up-' per upon the inside former, means for holding the upper that is to be stretched, and operating means operatively connected with the inside former for effecting the upper stretching movement, the outside former being yieldingly mounted to be displaced by force transmitted fromsaid operating means through the coiiperating former.

16. A machine for shaping shoe Vamps preparatory to lasting having, in combination, means for seizing and holding the margin of a vamp, a forepart former, operating mechanism for producing upper shaping movement between the former and the vamp holding means, and a device cooperating with the forepart former to com press the vamp upon the former, said machine being constructed and arranged to holdthe compressing device in an inoperative position above the forepart former to provide clearance for the presentation of the work to the vamp holding means.

17. A machine for shaping shoe Vamps preparatory to lasting having, in combination, means for holding the margin of a vamp, a forepart former, operating mechanism for raising the former against the vamp for shaping the vamp, adevice arranged to compress the former while the former is being raised, and means for holding said device in an upraised position when the former descends whereby clearance is'provided between said device and former to facilitate the presentation of the work to the vamp holding means.

18. A machine for shaping shoe uppers preliminary to lasting having, in combination, means for clamping the margin of the upper, a former, means for moving the former relatively to the clamping means to shape the upper, and mea'ns controlled in time relation with the v movement of the former for directly heating the former While it is shaping the upper.

19. A machine for shaping shoe uppers preliminary to lasting having, incombination, means fOrclamping the margin of the upper, a former, means for 'moving the former relatively to the clamping means to shape the upper, and means active during the shaping operation and inactive during vamp upon the the intervals between shaping operations for heating the said former.

20. A machine for shaping shoe uppers having, in combination, upper holding means, an inside former adapted to engage the inner side of the upper materials, and means for moving said former into and out of position to effect the upper shaping operation, and means active during the shaping operation and inactive during the intervals between shaping operations for-heating the movable inside former to apply heat to the inner side of the upper materials.

21. A machine for shaping shoe uppers preliminary to lasting having, in combination, means for clamping the margin of the upper, a former, means for moving the former-relatively to the clamping means to shape the work, and means arranged to become automatically active during the shaping operation and inactive during intervals between shaping operations for heating and moistening the work. 4

22. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means for shaping the forepart of a shoe upper, and means for automatically subjecting the work to the action of heat and thereafter to the action of heat and moisture during the shaping operation.

23. A machine of theclass described having, in combination, means for shaping the forepart of a shoe upper, includingan inside former containing a steam chamber and having a reticulated work engaging surface communicating with the steam chamber for automatically subjecting the inner side of the work to the action of steam during the shaping operation. Y 24. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means for shaping the forepart of a shoe upper including an inside former containing a steam chamber and having a reticulated work engaging surface communicatingwith the steam chamber for automatically'forcing steam into the inside of the upper to moisten and heat it to facilitate the shaping operation. I

25. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means forshaping the" forepart of a shoe'upper comprising inside and outside shaping members, and means for applying steam to the work through one of said members and applying heat to the work through the other of said members.

28. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means for shaping a shoe upper comprising inside and outside shaping members, and a steam chamber in the shaping member which engages the lining side of the upper materials, said member having apertures leading from the chamber through the walls which engage the work to conduct steam to the lining side of the upper materials under treatment.

29. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means for shaping the forepart of a shoe upper comprising an inside shaping member over which the work can be spread preparatory to the operation of the machine, meansfor supplying said inside shaping member with steam to maintain it in condition to heat the work spread over it, apertures through the work engaging walls of said member for conducting steam to the lining side of the upper materials, means for operating the shaping member, and means for automatically starting and shutting off the steam in time relation to the operation of the machine.

30. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means for shaping the forepart of a shoe upper, comprising an inside toe shaping member and an outside compression member formed and arranged to engage the work over the top of the toe,

means for holding the outside member out of engagement with.the work during an operation of the inner member, and means for forcing the outside member against the work.

31. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means for shaping the forepart of a shoe upper, comprising an inside toe shaping member and an outside compression member formed and arranged to engage the Work over the top of the toe, and controlling and operating means for the outside member which maintains said member upraised to facilitate the introduction of the work and effects increasing pressure thereof upon the work as the inside former rises. I

32. In a machine for shaping shoe uppers, the combination with an inside former over which to spread upper materials with the lining side in contact with said former, and means cooperating therewith to effect shaping of the upper-materials, of means constructed and arranged to inject heated vapor between the inside former and the lining side of the upper materials to soften the upper materials.

33. In a machine for shaping shoe uppers,

' the combination with an inside former over which to spread upper materials with the lining-side in contact with said former, and means cooperatin therewith to effect shaping of the upper materials, of means constructed and arranged to m ect/heated vapor between the inside former and the lining the Combination with a former andv means cotiperating therewith to effect shaping of the upper, of means movable into position to cooperate with the former in shaping the upper to face of the former and operating to cause the delivery of steam to the vamp when in such position.

36. In a machine for shaping shoe uppers,

' the combination with an inside former over which to arrange upper materials with the lining side of the materials in contact with the former, of, means constructed and arranged to inject steam between the former and the adjacent face of the liningmaterials to soften said materials for rendering them responsive to the upper shaping operation.

37 In a machine for shaping shoe uppers, the combination with a former over which to arrange a shoe upper, of means constructed and arranged to inject steam between the former and the adjacent face of the upper to soften the upper materials, means for operating the former, and means responsive to manual manipulation inclependently of the operation of the former to control the delivery of the steam.

38. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means to confine the margin of the forepart of a shoe vamp, an inside toe shaping member, means to force it into the unconfined portion of the vamp, an outside shaping member opposed thereto and slidingly mounted, a latch to lock the outside member away from the inside member, and means to actuate the outside member to cooperate with the inside member- 39. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means to confine the margin of a shoe vamp, an inside forepart former, means to raise the former into the unconfined portion of the vamp, an outside compression member slidingly mounted above the inside member for vertical move mcnt, a means to hold the said outside memher in upraised position, and a spring to force it downwardl upon the worln 40. A machine 0 the class described having, in combination, means to confine thev means? unconfined portiorfof the vamp, an outside former shaped to conform to the contour of the top face of the toe portion of the inside former, and means for effecting and maintaining yielding pressure upon the work by the outside former during the upward movement of the inside former.

41. A machineof the class described havng, in combination, means to confine the margin of the forepart of a shoe vamp, and means including an inside former operating to effect shaping of the unconfined portion to the contour of the former and to effect drawing out and shaping of the margin into an upstanding flange.

42. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means to confine the margin of the forepart of a shoe vamp, an inside former; and means operating to move the former and the confining means relatively to shape the unconfined portion of v the vamp, to relieve the grip of the confining means, and to further move said former and confining means relatively to draw the fiange through the confining means and shape it.

43. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means to confine the margin of the forepart of a shoe vamp, and an inside former; and operating mechanism for said parts constructed and arranged to move the former and the confining means relatively to stretch and shape the unconshape the forepart of the vamp substantially to thecontour of the forepart of a shoe, to actuate the confining means to allow the vamp margin to slip against strong frictional resistance and to further move the former in a direction substantially perpendicular to the plane of the confining means to cause the margin to draw through the con fining means and be reshaped into an up- 1 standing flange.

45. A machine for shaping shoe Vamps preparatory to lasting having, in combination, means for clamping the margin of the toe on a line approximating the line on which the vamp will be folded over the shoe bottom in lasting, and means for engaging the unconfined portion of the toe and drawing the margin through the clamping means and simultaneously bending it into a per manently upstanding flange for engagement by the grippers-of a pulling-over machine.

46. A machine for shaping shoe vamps preparatory to lasting having, in combination, means for clamping in a plane the margin of the toe on a substantially continuous line approximating the line on which the vamp will be folded over the shoe bottom in lasting, and means engaging the unconfined portion of the vamp'and between which and the clamping means there is relative movement in a direction substantially perpendicular to said plane for drawing the margin through the clamping means and shaping it into an upstanding flange.

4:7.A machine for shaping shoe vamps preparatory to lasting having, in combination, means for clamping in a plane the margin of the vamp around the toe on a line located at the inside of the margin and therefore shorter than the outer edge line of the vamp around the toe, and means for pulling the margin through the clamping means in wardly and upwardly to draw and reshape it into an upstanding flange having an outer edge line of substantially the length of the clamping line.

48. A machine for shaping shoe vamps preparatory to lasting having, in combination, means for clamping the margin of a vamp around the toe, means for forcing the vamp upwardly within the curvature of the clamping means to draw the margin from the clamping means for reshaping it, and connected means to control the clamping force variably during the action of said other means.

49. A machine for shaping shoe vamps preparatory to lasting having, in combination, means for clamping themargin of a vamp around the toe, a former engaging the inside of the toe, and connected means for raising the former and variably controlling -the pressure of the clamping means to allow 1 the margin to draw inwardly and upwardly for shaping it into an upstanding flange.

50. A machine for shaping shoe vamps preparatory to lasting having, in combination, means for clamping the margin of the vamp around the toe, a former engaging the inside of the toe, and connected means for advancing the former and first effecting the clamping of the margin, then shaping the toe a-nd'then relieving the clamping pressure sufliciently to allow the margin to slip and be drawn into an upstanding flange by continued movement of the former.

51. A machine for shaping shoe vamps preparatory to lasting having, in combination, means to shape the middle portion of the forepart of a vamp substantially to the contour of the corresponding portion of a last including the side faces of the toe of the last, and means to shape the margin of the vamp into a flange in substantial continuation of the upper shaped to: the side faces of the toe of the 1a.$t,-. 1.1bantial1y as described,

into a flange which extends in substantial continuation of the upper shaped to the side faces of the toe of the last and connected. mechanism for moving said two means in cooperative relation.

53. A machine for shaping shoe vamps preparatory to lasting having, in combination, means for confining the margin of the forepart' of a vamp, means for shaping the unconfined portion of the vamp, and operating mechanism therefor arranged to draw out and shape the margin of the vamp.

54. A machine for shaping shoe vamps preparatory to lasting having, in combination, means for confining the margin of the forepart of a vamp, means for-shaping the unconfined portion of the vamp, and operating mechanism cooperating with said means to stretch themargin throughout its extent in the direction of its width.

55. A machine for shaping shoe vamps preparatory to lasting having, in combination, devices to engage the vamp, and operating mechanism to cause said devices to stretch the margin of the vamp widthwise throughout its width.

56. A machine for shaping shoe vamps preparatory to lasting having, in combina-- tion, devices to engage a vamp substantially margin in the direction of its length.

58. A machine for shaping shoe vamps preparatory to lasting having, in combination, a U-shaped clamplng member engaging .the margin of a. vamp around the toe, and

means for drawing the margin throughout its length, inwardly under'said U-shaped clamping member to stretch the margin widthwise and shorten its outer edge line.

59. A machine'for shaping shoe vamps preparatory to lasting having, in combination, means to shape the middle portion of the toe of the vamp substantially to the contour of the corresponding portion of a last,

and meansto shorten the outer edge line of the toe of the vamp approximately to the edge line of the bottom of the toe portion of the last.

60. A machine for shaping shoe vain-p6 operation.

preliminary to lasting having, in combination, means for engaging the margin of the vamp and shaping it to a fiange adapted to I stand approximately upright around the curved .toe end of a last, and operating mechanism for said flange shaping means.

61. A machine for shaping shoe Vamps preliminary to lasting having, in combination, shaping means for contracting the edge line of the curved toe end of a vamp to form a flange adapted to stand substantially up right around the toe of a'last to facilitate engagement therewith of pulling-over machine grippers, and operating mechanism for said shaping means.

62. A machine for shaping shoe Vamps preliminary to lasting having, in combination, a forepart former, a table apertured to permit the movement ofthe former into it, and means cooperating with the table for confining the margin of a vamp forepart for the action of the former on the vamp, said parts being supported with their plane of clamping action at an oblique angle to the horizontal as and for the purpose specified.

63. A-machine for shaping shoe Vamps preliminary to lasting having, in combination, a forepart former, a table aperturedto permit the movement of the former into it, 30; means cooperating with the table for confining the margin of a vamp forepart for the action of the former on the vamp, said parts being supported with their plane of clamping action at an oblique angle to the horizontal, and means for relatively moving said parts vertically to clamp and to shape the vamp.

I 6 L A machine for shaping shoe vamps preliminary to lasting having, in combination', means for clamping the margin of a vamp, a forepart former, and means for I guiding and moving the former in a plane at an oblique angle to the plane of its sole face.

' 65. A machine for shaping shoe Vamps preliminary to lasting having, in combination, means for clamping the margin of a vamp, a forepart former arranged with its .sole face substantially parallel with the general plane in which the margin is clamped, and means for guiding and moving the former into the vamp in a direction inclined forwardly and upwardly relatively to said.- plane. 1

66. A machine for; shaping shoe Vamps preliminary to lasting having, in combina tion, a forepart former, a table apertured to permit the -movement of the former upwardly through it, means cooperating with forepart for. the action of the former on the vamp, means for moving the former, said former having a steam chamber, and means for supplying it with steam in dif- .ferent positions whichit pccupies during the table for confining the margin of a vamp '67. A machine fo shaping shoe Vamps preparatory to lasting having, in combination, a forepart former having a steam chamber, means for confining the margin of a vamp for the action of the former on the vamp, a tubular plunger upon which the former rests and which communicates with a source of steam supply, springs yieldingly upholding the former on the plunger, and a valve operated automatically to deliver steam when the springs are forced to yield by the resistance of the stock to movement of the former.

68. A machine for shaping shoe Vamps preparatory to lasting having, in. combination, a forcpait former, means for confining the margin of a vamp for the action of the former on the vamp, means for moving the former upwardly intothe vamp, a compression member arranged to engage with the upper face of the vamp and he raised by the action of the former, and means to hold said member in upraised position while the former is moved down to work receiving position.

'69. A machine for shaping shoe Vamps preparatory to lasting having, in combination, a forepart former, means for confining the margin of a vamp for the action of the former on the vamp, a Wedge arranged to act on one of said confining members, and a treadle arranged to move the former and having a lost motion connection by which it moves the wedge during a portion of the former actuating stroke.

70. A machine for, shaping shoe Vamps preparatory to lasting having, in combination, a .forepart former, means for confining the margin of a vamp for the action of the former on the vamp, and means for operating the former to do its work and having an operative connection with the said confining means arranged to relieve the margin confining pressure and all-ow the margin to draw out. t

71. A machine for shaping shoe Vamps preparatory to lasting having, in combination, a forepart former, means for confining the margin of a vamp for the action of the former on the vamp, a wedge arranged to act on one ofsaid confining members, and a plunger for operating the former to do its Work and having a lost motion connection by which movement is transmitted to retract the wedge when a predetermined position of the former is passed wherebythe margin is released and is withdrawn by continued movement of the former.

72. In a machine for operating on shoes, means for confining the margin of a vamp and means for engaging the unconfined portion of the vamp and shaping said unconfined portion and then drawing the marginal portion out of the confining means and shaping it into an ups anding flange, combined with a treadle having operative connections with said confining and shaping means, and means arranged to stop the treadle when the shaping of the unconfined portion of the vamp has-been efi'ected, said stopping means being arranged for movement out of the way by the treadle-engaging foot of the operator to permit the further depression of the treadle for drawing the margin out of the confining means.

73. In a machine for operating on shoes, a foot treadle and devices connected therewith and adapted to be caused to perform a plurality of operations in succession during continued downward movement of the treadle, and means arranged to stop the treadle between two such operations and to.

be rendered inoperative by a movement of the treadle depressing foot. 2'0

74. In a machine for operating on shoes, a foot treadle and devices connected therewith and adapted to be caused to perform a plurality of operations in succession during continued downward movement of the treadle, and means which is adapted for stopping the treadle between two such operations and is arranged to be controlled by the treadle depressing limb of the operator.

7 5. A machine of the class'described having, in combination, a forepartformer, means for confining the margin of the forepart of a vamp to hold the Vamp for the shaping action of the former on the unconfined portion, and means engaging the lower face of the said margin at the tip seam and becoming operative during the last portion only of the action of the former to move the ends of thetip seam forwardly.

j? 6 -A machine of the class described having, in combination, a forepart former, rne'ans' for confining the margin of the fore- .part of a vamp to hold the vamp for the shaping action of the former on the unconfined portion, said confining means having slots, and devices movable within said slots in the confining means and engaging the said margin at the 'ends of the tip seam to move the tip seam ends forwardly relatively to the remainder of the margin. 4

77. A machine of the class described having, in combination, a forepart former, means for confining the margin of the forepart of a vamp to hold the vamp for the shaping action of the former on the unconfined portion, and devices engaging the upper and the lower sides of the said margin at the ends of the tip seam and movable relatively to said confining means to advance the ends of the tip seam.

7 8. A machine of the class described having, in combination, a forepart former, means for confining the margin of the forepart of a vamp to hold the vamp for the shaping action of the former on the unconfined portion, means for guiding and moving the former in a direction inclined forwardly and upwardly into the toe part of the upper, and means for imparting to the tip seam ends a compensating forward movement relatively to the remainder of the margin of the upper.

7 9. A machine of the class described having, in combination, a forepart former, means for confining the margin of the forepart of a vamp to hold the vamp for the shaping action of the former on the uncon fined portion, and means for relaxing the margin confining force and simultaneously advancing the tip seam ends.

80. A machine of the class described having, in combination, a forepart former, means for confining the margin'of the forepart of a vamp to hold the vamp for the shaping action of the former on the unconfined portion, a wedge underlying the lower margin confining member and having a portion extending into engagement with the tip seam ends, and means for retracting the wedge toward the toe near the end of the shaping action of the former. I

81. A machine of the class described having, in combination, a forepart former, and means for confining the margin of the forepart of a vamp to hold the vamp for the shaping action of the former on the unconfined portion, said confining means including a member having endwise movable toothed sections 68 adapted to engage the tip seam ends and advance them toward the toe.

82. A machine of the class described having, in combination, a forepart former, means for confining the margin of theforepart of a vamp to hold the vamp for the shaping action of the former on the unconfined portion; said confining means-includ ing a member having endwise movable sec tions to engage the tip seam ends on one side of the flange and a member engaging the reverse side of the flange at the seam ends; and means for moving said members to carry the seam ends forwardly during the opera tion of the former. i

83. In a machine of the class described, an upper clamping member having, as a portion only of its acting face, a movable device mounted to accompany the engaged surface of the work in a movement in one direction and also to recede from the adjacent work clamping surface of the said member after such work accompanying movement.

84. In a machine of the class described, an upper clampingmember 25 having, as a portion of its acting face, a movable block 68, parallel links 70 connecting said block to said member, and permitting movement, of the block lengthwise of the clamping surfaceof themember 25, and a spring 7 2 for restoring the block to normal relation to member 25.

' Y a 85. In a. machine of the class described, an

upper clamping member and a toothed device of relatively small area extending through the upper engaging surface of the clamping member and movable relatively thereto in approximately the plane of said engaging face while the upper is'clamped.

86. In a machine of the class described, an

- upper clamping member 6 and a device 8 having a toothed portion 66 projecting through a relatively large opening in the member 6 to engage the tip seam end and move it forwardly and means 64, 62, 60, 18 to move said device relatively to the clamping member 6.

87. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means for clamping the margin of a shoe vamp, a toe former, means for operating the former to stretch the vamp held by the clamp, a tip seam holder mounted to maintain clamping engagement with the tip seam during the vamp stretching operation, and means to heat the seam holder and thereby heat the upper upon the top face of the former. Y

88. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means for'manipulating an upper to shape it to the contour; of the" forepart of a shoe; including an inside former and upper margin engaging means; means to. press upon the outside of the upper and shape it to the former back of the high point of the toe, and means to heat said last named. means.

89. In a machine for shaping the toes of boot and shoe Vamps preparatory to lasting the said toes, the combination with an inside forming die movable against the vamp to stretch and shape the toe, of means to grip and hold the margin of the vamp from one side of the toe around the end of the toe to the other side, said means being formed with an opening at the rear to permit the die and the body part of the vamp to project rearwardly beyond the clamping means and being further constructed and arranged to give up the gripped marginal material under stress after the die has stretched the interior portion of the vamp.

90. In a machine for shaping the-toesof boot and shoe Vamps preparatory to lasting the said toes, the combination with an inside forming die movable against the vamp to stretch and shape the toe, of means to grip and hold the margins of the vamp from one side of the toe around the end of the toe to the other side, said means being formed with an opening at the rear to permit the die and the body part of the vamp to project rearwardly beyond the clamping means and being further constructed and arranged to give up the gripped marginal material under stress after the die has stretched the interior portion of the vamp, and a compression die formed to fit the upper shaping "faces ofthe inside die and between which and the inside die the vamp stock, while held in stretched condition, is subjected to pressure to set it in the new shape.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

' MATTHIAS BROCK.-

' Witnesses:

ARTHUR L. RUSSELL, HARLOW M. DAVIS.