US1603246A - Method and apparatus for attaching separable fastener tapes - Google Patents

Description

Oct. 12, 1926;

L. ROCKE METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR ATTACHING SEPARABLE FASTENER TAPES Filed Nov. 17, 1921." 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR.

Zozzzls aavfe ATTORNEY5 ROCKE METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR ATTACHING SEPARABLE FASTENER TAPES F iled Ndv. 17,- 1921 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVERTER.

fiarie Patented Oct. 12, 1926.

I omen srATE f PJNOF 1,63,24e F I E.

LOUIS ROOKIE, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK, .ASSIGNOR '10 LOUIS M. RABINOW ITZ, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK.

METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR ATTACHING SEPARABLE FASTENER TAPES.

- Application filed November 17, 1921. Serial No. 515,853,

This invention has for its principal object the provision of a new and improved method and apparatus for sewing tapes provided with fastening devices upon articles of wearing apparel.

In the garment trade it is the common practice to use a tape upon which is secured at suitable intervals hooks or eyes, or other suitable fastening devices, which tape is sewed by machine directly upon the garment thus obviating the necessity of sewing each fastener separately to the garment.

The method now in use by which these tapes are sewed .to the garment involves the necessity for two operations, namely first sewing one edge of the tape to the edge of the garment and then by a separate operation sewing the other edge of the garment thus finishing the operation of securing the tape in place. It is the purpose of this invention to devise a method which will dispense with one of these operations and to fasten both edges of thetape to the garment at the one operation, and to simultaneously hem the edge of the garment.

Another object of the invention is to provide an apparatus which can be readily attached to any standard'type of sewingmachine to adapt the machine for carrying out the method.

A further object is to provide-an appa ratus which will effectively guide the tape to and through thesewing machine without requiring any specialefiiort or attention on the part of the operator.

A further object is to provide a convenient attachment for mounting the cardboar'ds upon whichthe fastener tapes are usually sold upona rotary support from which they will be automatically fed to the sewing ma chine.

\Vith these andsuch further objects in view as will be apparent 'to those skilled 1n the art to which this appertains, the invention consists in the method as disclosed in the followingspecification andvas shown in thedrawings, a preferred embodiment of an apparatus tor carrying out the method being also described and shown.

' It is to be understood that changes, variations and modifications in the apparatus for carrying out the method may be resorted to, and that the embodiment of the apparatus herein disclosed is to be construed as illustrative and not limitativc, and that such changes, variations and modifications may be resorted to as fall within the scope of the appended claims.

In the drawings forming a portion of this specification,

Figure 1 is a front view of a sewing machine equipped with an embodiment of an apparatus adapted to carry out the improved method.

Figure 2 is a detail plan view-of the feed plate of the machine shown in Fig. '1 showing the hemmer attachment in place.

Figure 3 is a sectional detail taken on the line 33 of Figure 5. I

' Figure 4 is a sectional detail taken on the line H of Figures 2 and 5.

Figure 5 is 'a sectional detail on theline 5-5 of Figure 2 with the hemmer attachment removed.

Figure 6 is a perspective detail of the reel upon which the tape card is mounted.

Figure 7 isa diagrammatic view of a garment showing a fastener tape secured therebeing partly ripped away.

Figure 8 isa diagrammatic view showing a garment upon which the first operation of to by my improved method, one of the seams sewing the tape to the garment'by the old a method has been completed, and

Figure 9 is a view similar to' Fig. 8 showin the completed second operation of the 01 method. Referring to the drawings, 10 indicates generally 'a-two needle sewing machine of the usual'well known type having the usual work table 11 and a pair of needles 12, which pass through the usual apertures13 'provided in the presser foot 14. The pressv er foot 14, when the machine is in operation is spring pressed in the common and well known way downwardly in contact with the feed plate 15 which is provided with the usual serrations 16 to engage the fabric passing through the machine. provided with the customary slotted openings through which project the serrated jaws 17 of the usual reciprocating feeder.

Due to the presence of the presser foot between the needles 12 and the pressure between the prcsser foot and feed plate it has heretofore been impossible to feed a tape upon which a number of fastening devices were secured under the presser foot, so that both sides of the tape could be sewed simultaneously as it is obvious that the fasten- The feed plate 15 is i by two separate ers could not pass between the presser foot and feed plate. Therefore it has been the common practice to sew these fastener tapes upon corsets, brassieres and other garments operations, in a single needle machine. The first-operation by the old method as indicated in Fig. 8 consisted Fig. 9 and with the fasteners facing upwardly and to completing the operation.

one side of the presser foot, the row of stitching 21 is then sewed thus The foregoing method of securing the tape requires the utmost amount of. care and diligence on the part of the operator as the stitching must be run as evenly as possible, the overlapping edges of the tape and garment must be carefully guided by hand to insure an even overlapping of the pieces and the seam obviously can not be run too close to the fasteners.

In sewing the tape to the garment by my improved method, it is only necessary to pass the garment through the machine a single time thus avoiding one of the operations set forth above and as I also provide suitable guiding means for the tape I overcome the necessity for the operator exerting such a great degree of care and attention whereby the output of a single operator-not only is greatly increased, but the tape is fastened more securely to the -garment as will be noted by referring to Fig. 7 of the drawing. As shown in this figure, the hem 22 of the garment, which is turned over by any suitable hemming attachment such as indicated by the numeral 23 in Figs. 1 and 2 as the goods are fed to theneedle, is fastened down by the stitching 24 which passes through two thicknesses of the garment and also through the adjacent edge of the tape 20 while the other edge of the tape is being fastened simultaneously by the-row of stitching 25.

A suitable embodiment of an apparatus for carrying out my improved method may as shown in Figs. 1 to 6 consist of the following construction and arrangement of parts. a

The work table of the machine is preferably slotted out to receive a channel plate 26, the top of which is flush withthe top-01f the table 11. The plate 26 isslotted to provide a guide way 27 for the tape 20 and midway between the edges of the guide way is slotted to a greater depth to provide a channel 28 of sufficient depth to permit the free passage of the fasteners 18 therean additional guloing means for the lower face of. the fasteners as clearly shown in Fig. 3.

" The channel plate 26 is placed into the table with its inner edge in abutment with the feed plate 15 which is provided at the end nearest the channel plate with a guideway and channel similar to and in alignment with the guideway and channel in the channel plate. A cover plate 33 covers this portion of the feed plate and terminates a short distance from the edge of the channel plate. At each side of the feed plate adjacent the ends of the cover plate 33 an adjustable guide block 34 is secured to the feed plate as by the screws 35 which pass through elongated slots 36 in the .guide block to permitthe blocks to compensate for different widths of tape. -RetI'Wl.1'(lly of the cover plate 33- the channel 37 is curved upwardly as at 38 to bring the tape above the top of the feed plate where it. will be engaged by the serrated jaws 17 of the feeder and urged beneath the presser foot 14. After the tape has passed the presser foot it encounters a second curvature 39 of the channel 37 and is thereby brought up to the top of the work table 11.

Suitable means for holding the" tape supply. may be provided in order that the tape maybe fed automatically to the machine and as shown a bracket 40 is bolted to the under side of the work table 10, said bracket being provided at its lower end with suitably spaced bearings 41 in which is rotatably journaled the reduced end 42 of a Shaft 43. Any desirable means such as the collar 44 to be adjusted may be provided to hold the shaft against under the cover plate 33 and lover t e serrations ofthe feed plate. The operator then introduces the edge of the garment into the hemmer 23 which turns the hem 22, the presser foot 14 is then lowered upon the goods which occupy the position shown' clearly in Fig. 4. The sewing machine is then started and the goods passed through the machine. The tape is accurately guided of the operator, the pull of the feeding de-' vice unwinding the tape from the card'45 as it is fed through the machine. As will be obvious from an inspection of Fig.4both sides of the tape and the hem of the garment is sewed by the needles 12 during its passage through the machine, the channel 28 providing a free passage for the tape beneath the hemmer while the channel 37 allows the free passage of the fasteners underneath the presser foot.

It is the usual practice by the old methods to measure and cut off the length of tape required for each garment before starting the operation of sewing.v This is unnecessary with'my improved method in which the tape supply being fed automatically to. the machine it is not necessary to measure the tape beforehand, but the tape may simply be cut off when the desired amount is sewed on to the garment. In sewing a tape containing eyes to the garment it is the usual practice to sew only one side of the tape which according to my method is fed through the machine with the eyes downwardly directly under the presser foot. Therefore for sewing on an eye tape it will be obvious that my method may be" carried out in a single needle machine.

It will be apparent that the improved method might be carried out by various different forms of apparatus and that various methods for holding the tape supply could be resorted to.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is 1. In a sewing machine having a pair .of spaced needles, a presser foot and a feed member, means adapted to permit the passage of a tape provided with projecting separable fasteners between said presser foot and feed member comprising a channel in find intermediate the sides of said feed memcr. 1

2. In-a sewing machine,5the combination .of a-feed plate, and means for guiding a fastener bearing tape to said feed plate, comprising a guide member arranged in advance of the feed plate, and slotted longitudinally to provide oppositely disposed guide ways to support the lateral margins of said tape, and slotted to a greater depth midway between said guide ways to form a channel permitting the free passage of fas teners secured to said tape.

3. In a sewing machine, the combination of a feed plate having one end slotted to provide oppositely disposed guide ways to support the lateral margins of a fastener bearing tape, and midway between said guide ways slotted to a greater depth to form a channel permitting the free passage of fasteners secured to said tape, and a guide member arranged in advance of said feed plate, and slotted longitudinally to form oppositely' disposed guideways for said tape and an intermediate channel for said fasteners similar to, and in alignment with, the

guide ways and channel of said end'of the feed plate. v

4. In a sewing machine, a presser foot, a feed plate, a feeding device projecting through the top thereof,'said feed plate provided with a slotted guideway to engage the side edgesofa tape having separable fastening devices secured thereto and said feed plate provided with a channel intermediate the. edges of said guide way to permit the passage of the fasteners beneath said presser foot, said guide way provided with means adjacent said presser foot to guide said tape upwardly to and over said feeding device.

5. A sewing machine having a presser foot, a feedplate provided with a slotted guideway to engage the side edges of a tape having separable fasteningdevices secured thereto, said guideway terminating adjacent said presser foot, serrated feeding jaws adjacent to and in alignment with the end of said guideway 'to engage and feed both edges of said tape, and said feed plate provided with a channel extending between said feeding jaws to permit the free unobstructed passage of the fasteners beneath said presser foot.

6. A sewing machine having a presser foot, a feed plate provided with a slotted guideway to engage the side edges of a tape having separable fastening devices secured thereto, said guideway curving upwardly and terminating adjacent said presser foot, serrated feeding jaws adjacent to and in alignment withthe end of said guideway to engage and feed both edges of said tape, and said feed plate provided with a channel ex tending between said feeding jaws to permit the free unobstructed passage of the fasteners beneath said presser foot.

7. A' sewing machine having a pair of spaced needles, spaced feeding jaws, a presser foot adapted to contact with said jaws, a

feed plate having a guideway adapted to] guide ways to support the lateral margins of a fastener bearing tape, and intermediate of said guide ways slotted to a greater depth to forma channel permltting the free passage of fasteners secured to said tape, said end of the feed plate being also provided with a cover plate.

9. In a fastener tape sewing machine, a feed plate, and a channel plate having its rear end in abutment with the forward end of said feed plate, said channel plate and the forward end of said feed plate being slotted longitudinally to form a channel in each of said plates for the free passage of fasteners secured to said tape, the channel of said channel plate being similar to and in uninterrupted connection with the channel of the feed plate.

10. In a sewing machine having a feed plate, a presser foot adapted to contact therewith and a channel plate adjacent said feed plate, means to permit the free unobstructed passage of a tape having separable fastening devices secured thereto between said presser foot and feed plate, said means comprising a channel in said feed plate, and means to guide said tape to the feed plate comprising a channel in alignment with said first mentioned channel located below the top of said channel plate -and a sliding plate adapted to cover said channel.

11. The combination with a sewing machine of means adapted to guide a tape provided with projecting separable fasteners between the presser foot and feed of the machine, comprising a. channel in the feed intermediate the sides thereof, whereby the feed will engage both side portions of the tape and permit the unobstructed passage of the fasteners through the machine.

12. In a sewing machine having a pair of spaced needles, a presser foot, a feed, guiding means adjacent said feed adapted to engage both sides ofatape provided with projecting separable fasteners, and said feed provided with a channel adapted to permit the unobstrueted passage of said fasteners between the presser foot and feed, said channel being intermediate the sides of said feed whereby both'side portions of the tape will be engaged by the feed adjacent the needles and the free and unobstructed passage of the fasteners is permitted through said channel between the presser foot and feed. 13. In a sewing machine having a work table, a pair of spaced needles, a presser foot, a feed plate, a feed projecting throi gh said feed plate, a channel plate adjacent said feed plate, said channel plate, feed plate and feed each provided with a channel to permit the unobstructed passage of tape provided with projecting separable fasteners beneath the work table and to the needles of the machine, said channel being located intermediate said needles.

14. In a sewing machine having a Work table, a pair of spaced needles, a presser foot, a feed plate, a feed projecting through said feed plate, a channel plate adjacent 1 channel plate,

said channel plate and feed plate provided with guiding means to engage both sides of a tape PlOVldGCl with projecting separable fasteners and said channel plate, feed plate and feed each provided said feed plate,

with a channel intermediate said guiding means to permit the unobstructed passage of the fasteners through said-machine.

15. In a sewing machine having a work table, a presser foot and a feed, means to permit the passage of a tape provided with projecting separable fasteners between said presser foot and feed and beneath said table comprising guiding means and a channel, said guiding means and channel located beneath said table, and said channel extending rearwardly abeyond the rear portions of said presser-foot and feed.

16. In a sewing machine having a work table, a pair of spaced needles, apresser foot, a feed plate, a feed projecting through said feed plate, a channel plate adjacent said feed plate, said channel plate and feed plate provided with guiding means to en-' sides of atape provided with separable fasteners and said feed plate and feed each progage both projecting vided with a channel intermediate said guiding means to permit the unobstructed passage of the fasteners through said machine, said channel and guiding means located beneath the top of said table.

17. In a sewing .machine having a work table, a pair of spaced needles, a presser foot, a feed plate, a feed projecting through said feed plate, a channel plate adjacent said feed plate, said channel plate and feed plate provided with guiding means to engage both sides of a tape provided with projecting separable fasteners and said channel plate, feed plate and feed each provided with a channel intermediate said guiding means to permit the unobstructed passage of the fasteners through said machine and a portion of said guiding means adjacent said needle being adjustable.

18. The method of sewing a tape provided with projecting metallic'separable fastening devices to a garment in a sewing machine which consists in folding over the edge of the garment, simultaneously feeding the tape and garment through the machine, engaging the side edges of the tape to guide it in a straight line through the machine and simultaneously and both edges of the tape to the garment and the hem while maintaining a free unob structed passage for the fasteners in their entire passage through the machine.

19. In a fastener tape sewing machine, a feed plate, a presser foot adapted to contact therewith, and a channel plate in endwise abutment with said feed plate, and slotted longitudinally to provide oppositelydisposed guide Ways to support the lateral mar- .dle sewing machine having spaced apart needl web and feed plate,

gins of a tape, and midway between-the edges of said guide we s slotted to'a greater depth to provide a c annel .to permit the free passage of fasteners therethrough, and

means to permit the free unobstructed passage of said tape between said presser foot said means comprising a channel in said feed plate intermediate the sides of and beneath said presser foot'.-. 20, The combination with a multiple-neees; a presser foot having'a needle hole for eachneedle; a goods and fastener-web,

feeding mechanism comprisinga pair of lat-i erally spaced apart" feed dogs of a fastenerand fastener, guiding devicehaving a guide way'between said feed dogsfor pas- Y sa e between the same of fasteners on the the guide wayand the thereto rated surfaces and feedzdoga 21. The combination with a multipleneesov face .surfaces and feed do We the said device having a serrated suroutwardly of each feeddog and a ser-' rated surface inwardly of each feed dog; and the presser foot having a Width spanning adjacent serdle sewing machine having spaced apart needles; a'p'resser' foot having a needle hole for each needle a goods and fastener-Web feeding mechanism comprising a pair of laterally spaced apart feed dogs of a'fastenerweb and fastener guidin guide Way between said eed dogs for passage between .the same of fasteners on the- -web the said device having a serrated surface outwardly ofeach feed dog anda serrated surface inwardly of'each feed dog; and the r'esser foot having a width spanning the gui e way and the thereto adjacent serrated the bottom of the rear end of said gui way having an up: wardl; 'slantin gfsurface. 4

22. n a fastener tape sewing machine, 'a work table, a feed plate, a presser foot y 1 adapted to contact therewith, means toip'ers mit the free iunobstructed p age of a tape having fasteners secured hereto between said presser foot and feed plate, said means comprising a channel infsald feed plate, and means to guide said tape to the eed plate 'the guide wa Y at the rear of t device having a.

- the rear \)f the feed-dogs being provided with needle comprising a channel plate in endwise abutment with said feed plate and slot'ted longitudinally to provide oppositely disposed guide ways to support the lateral margins 3 of atape, and midway between. the edges.

of said guide ways slotted to a greater depth first named channel, said -to provide a-channel in alignment with the guide ways and channel being located below the level ofithe top ofssaid feed plate, and'work table.

23. The combination with a-bed plate of a sewing machine having a plurality of spaced apart needles of a front fastener web and fastener guide provided with a guideway extending in the direction of the feed of the 'machineand openat its front and slidable into and out of place in the bed plate and at the rear'of said front guide a rear guide having a guide way alined with the guide way in the front guide and also having at each side of its guide way a feed dog and thereto ad acent, serrated surfaces,

and at the rear of said front guide, a rear guide'having a guide way, alined with the guide way in the front and th reto adjacent, serrated surfaces, the guide ay of the rear guide being open at presser foot; and ajpresser foot cooperating .with said feed dogs," the oint receiving apertures and the rear guide eingprovided with an elongated feed dog receivv ing slot longer than the feed dog mounted in. the slot. a

Signed at New York, in the county of New'York and State of New York this'10th 'day of November A. D. 1921. p

' LOUIS'ROCKE.

guide and also hav- I ing at each ideof its guide Way a feed dog

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