US1506074A

US1506074A - Method of making rubber footwear

Info

Publication number: US1506074A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1924-08-26
Anticipated expiration: 1941-08-26

Description

Aug. 26. 1924. 1,506,074

C. H. MORRILL IIBTHOD OF MAKING RUBBER FOOTWEAR Filed Jan. 16. 1919 2 Shoots-453190; J.

Aug. 26 1924. 1,506,074

C. H. MORRILL METHOD OF MAKING RUBBER FOOTWEAR Filed Jan. 16, 1919 2 Shasta-Shoot 2 Patented Aug. 26, 1924.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

CHARLES snon macnnmnv new JERSEY.

H. HOBEILL, OF BWAIIPSCOTT, MASSACHUSETTS, LBSIGHOB TO UNITED CORPORATION, OF PATEBSOH, NEW JERSEY, A. CORPORATION 01' METHOD OF MAKING RUBBER FOOTWEAR.

Application filed January m, 1919. Serial in. main,

To all whom may concern:

Be it known that I, CHARLES H. MORRILL, a citizen of the United States residing at Swampscott, in the county of Essex and 5 State of Massachusetts, have invented cer "tain Improvements in Methods of Making "Rubber Footwear, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like -0 reference characters on the drawings indieating like parts in the several figures.

The present invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of rubber foot wear and for convenience will be described in connection with the manufacture of that type of such footwear which is known as overshoes or artics.

The upper or top of an artic ordinarily comprises two parts, a vamp constituting the fore art portion and a quarter constitutingl the heel and side portions of the arctic an each of these parts is made up of a number of pieces ofdifl'erent materials such as an inner fleece lining, an intermediate reinforcing la er known as a collarette, and an outer fa ric piece called cashmerette. These top pieces vary according to the rade of the artic to be made. In making t e arctic, the top has been produced by a building-up process in which the various top pieces are separately and successively relatively positioned and a plied to a wooden form or last, the ma er fitting and lapping the pieces as the process progresses. Thereafter the shoe bottoming materials, including the insole, filler, foxing and outersole, are applied to the form to build up the arctic to the sole vulcaniz ing stage. By reason of the character of the operations performed, the arctic, as heretofore made, is built entirely by hand makers who are necessarily skilled laborers. It will be ap reciated that the procedure thus followe in makin arctics and similar t pes of shoes is depen ent entirely upon tlie skill of the makers and that, even if skilled makers are employed, both the quality of the workmanship and the. shoe production varies considerably. Poor workmanship is of great consequence in making rubber shoes since it is diflicult to detect until after'the shoe is com leted where it invariably appears in a de ective vulcanization at some place on the shoe. Indeed, even under-the bestlconditions, a.

labor and, theskilled o rations heretofore attendant upon the ma "ng of such shoes and enable a more accurate and uniform production to be obtained at low manufacturing cost. 7

With thisobject in mind, the invention contemplates in one of its aspects, the preparation of a top for an arctic WhiOhCOHSIStS in cutting out pieces to constitute the vamp of an erotic, including an inner fleece line mg, one or more collarettes, and an outer 'cashmerette, and finally assembling? them together, similarly pre aring the quarter for the arctic, unltin t e assembled vamp and quarter, preferab y, on opposite} sides of the arctic, to form a umtary top, bling the said. top and an insole on the form or last on wh1ch the arctic is to be made and then prefornn'ng subsequent operations to complete the manufacture of the shoe.

In the practice of the invention the to will conveniently be repared and assembles as a unit in the cutting and stitching room and then sent to the making room to be assembled witlr'the insole on the, arctic form or last for subsequent operatiomst asince the will lessen the hand j constituent pieces of the vanip aiidthe pieces of the quartet may is flat and all parts of it are entirelyaccessible and may be readilyI mani ulatedg greater speed and accuracy in assem ing the parts may be obtained, andalso'the top parts may be more readil and more uniformly secured together, as y rolling the over-1a ed cement coated ortions into ion. ur thermore the tting and assambling of -the vamp and quarter into a-unit'in'thib manner makes it feasible to employ unskilled labor without in any respect diminishing the quality of the produ r As herein set forth,the parts of the vamp and the uarter preferably will be so shaped and fitte that the vamp and quarter will overlap at opposite sides of the shoe at the shank, these overlapped portions being perbe assembled and that vamp and quarter united while the'shoe top manently secured together as by stitching.

Also, if desired, a reinforcing tab may be stitched to the joint or overlap to provide the desired strength at these places.

A further characteristic advantage is that 6 the present invention for the first time makes it not only possible but entirely practicable to stretch and shape the shoe top into conformation to its last end under tension, as by power operated lasting machinery.

In another aspect, therefore. the invention comprises assembling the prepared top, together with an insole, one. last, conforming the top, to the last under tension as by applying a forward tension to the toe end of the top and a tension simultaneously to 0pposite sides of the top, securing the margin of the top to the insole at the pulled over points, Working the remaining portions of the last over on the insole to complete the shaping of the top to the last, and thereafter applying a sole and performing subsequent operations in the usual manner. The ap lication-of forward tension to the toe on of the top and a tension simultaneously to opposite sidesof the top at the toe, is of especial advantage since thereby the top is first pro erly set lengthwise of the shoe form and then the vamp is pulled laterally into conformation to the form without undue distortion of the top materials or dis placement of the foot opening of the arctic. The side tension applied to the vamp also pulls the vamp into the concaved instep ortion of the form or last so that it an all parts of the shoe are tensioned on the form and are brought into a sufficiently compact body to insure subsequent vulcanization of the shoe in the proper manner. In another aspect, the invention provides for applying the foxing to the top prior to its being assembled on the last instead of applying the foxing to the sides of the top and overlapping it on the bottom of the arctic as heretofore. This foxing extends between the fabric upper and the outersole to insure proper vulcanization of the outersole to the fabric upper and for this reason it necessarily consists of high grade rubber. By applying the foxing to the ramp as the constituent parts are being assembled together, the foxin'g'nfaybe readily rolled to insure its adhesion to t e underlying portion of the vamp because the vamp at this time may be laid flat whereas under the present practice, the foxing can not he rolled \sgithout considerable difiiculty owing to the fact that as it is applied, it must he conformed to the various curvatures of the shoe form. As herein set forth, the foxing is only applied 50 to the vamp of the arctic top, the foxing for the quarter being applied after the shoe 1S lasted. In practice, this is found most convenient inasmuch as it enables the ends of the quarter foxing to cover the joining between the vamp and the quarter. It desired, however, the overlap may be covered by a separate piece.

Other objects, and novel characteristics of the present invention will now be described in connection'with the accompanying drawings which illustrate the preferred method of practising the invention and the invention will then be pointed out in the appended claims,

Fig. 1 is a perspective view showing the preparation of various pieces to constitute the vamp of an arctic shoe in accordance with one ste in the preferred practice of the resent invention;

F 1g. 2 is a perspective view showing a simiiar preparation of the various pieces to constitute-the quarter of the arctic;

Fig. 3 is a perspective view showing the vamp and the quarter of the top assembled and ready for application to a shoe form; Fig. 4 is a. pers ective view illustrating the step of assembling the unitary top and an insole on the last; i Fig. 5 is a perspective view illustratin the step of shaping the prepared to to the orm and attaching it in its shape position to the :insole Fig. 6 is a perspective view showing the arctic witli the sole applied and finally prepared for vulcanization. t In carrying out. the invention in one man .ner in which it has'been successfully practised, a. blank 2 of suitable shape to oorrel s ond to this vamp 'of the arctic is first pro= vided, this blank being preferably made of fleece lining such as is now ordinarily used for the inner lining of artic shoes. A quar ter shaped blank 4 of fleece lining or simi: lar material is also cut out to constitute thfi inner lining of the quarter.

Collarettes

6 and 8 for'the vamp and the quarter, re; spectively, are next cut out from frictior cloth or similar rubberized cloth, the semi material being used for the collarettes as with the prior methods. The outer cash 'merette

pfieces

10 and 12. for the} vamp ant thequarter respectively are also-cut out it substantially the same shape as heretofon except at the rear portion of the vamp, thl cashmerette piece 10 is extended a distano to enable it'to overlap a corresponding por tion provided atthe forward portions-o the quarter as indicated at 14. The

collar ettcs

6 and 8, which consist of semi-circu lar shaped bands of friction cloth, form th outer mar inal portion of the top, togethe with the eece linings 2 and 4, the cashmer ette pieces terminating -a considerable dis tanceaway from the edge of the top. Th quarter includes in addition to the fleec lin ng 4,.the cashmerette 12 and collarett 8 a. jlllliOT- 16 for stiffening the heel portioi of the quarter, this junior consisting of relatively thin. layer of cheap rubber com pound such as rag stock. In the next step 0 the process the constituent pieces of the vamp are fitted together, the inner fleece lining being arran ed with the fleece side toward the inside 0 the shoe, the collarette placed on the lining along its margin, and the cashmerette placed so as to constitute the outer layer of the top, the lower margin of the cashmerette piece overlap ing the upper margin of the collarettc. n aswmbling these pieces the are cemented to each other throughout an after the vamp is made up it is conveniently rolled or pressed together to bring the pieces into proper adhesion for vulcanization, this rolling operation being performed with greater facility and more uniformly and accurately than in the corresponding operation. with the prior practice by reason of the fact that the vamp can be laid flat upon a table. Preferably also, the foxing' 18 for the arctic is applied to the vamp before it is assembled on the form.

This foxing, which consists of a strip of high grade rubber, is readily applied to the upper surface of the vamp in the usual 'tion, that is, with its upper edge overapping the lower edge of the cashrnerette as shown in the drawings. This foxing is also rolled into perfect adhesion with the underlying vain materials, as by a small hand roller, or t e vamp including the foxing, may be rolled in asingle operation. The upper edge of the foxing is preferably wheeled to form a line of small indentations in th" foxing as illustrated in the drawin s,

i the wheeling operation acting to indent t is foxing in the cloth and insure vulcanization of the faxing to the underlying fabric. The width of the foxin is such as to extend to the outer edge of t e underlying vamp materials. The parts which are to constitute the quarter are assembled together in the same manner that is followed in making up the vamp, and in addition the junior or heel stiil'ener 16 is laced between the collarette and the eras Inerette as customary, and a separate junior covering layer of friction fabric is applied. The assembled quarter is rolled in the same manner as the vamp to bring the various parts into proper adhering relation. Preferably, however, a foxing is not applied to the quarter as in the vamp for a reason hereinafter to be mentioned.

In the next step in the process the assembled vamp and assembled quarter are secured together to constitute a unitary or onerpicce top for the arctic before it is applied to the form on which the arctic may )8 made. This is done by overlapping the portions 14 formed on the quarter parts on to the corresponding portions on the vamp and then securing the overlapped portions together with a sewed seam 22 by a sewing machine in any desirable manner, A rein forcing tab may be applied to the overlapping portions of the vamp and uarter prior to connecting them together y the stitches 22 in order to rein force the connection between the two parts. Alternatively, however, and as herein illustrated, the heel collarette is made so as to overlap at that place. Bv following the practice above described, it will be seen that the maker is able to match up the various pieces which constitute the top fiat, as distinguished from applying them to a heavy form as with the prior method, and conmquentl the two parts may be assembled by one illed help with considerable dexterity and accuracy. One of the most serious diiliculties encountered in the prior method is the rolling of the various pieces of the top into adhesion to insure perfect vulcanization. This is due to the fact that the building up process by which the pieces are assembled does not afford conditions for them to be rolled conveniently. The operator ordinarily uses an iron roller for this purpose; but, because the form on which the top is supported is so irregular, only comparatively small pertions of the top are treated Without the exercise of considerable care and the expenditure of considerable time. lVitlil the method herein involved, however, the finally assembled vamp and the quarter can be readily laid flat on a table and rolled or rolled by pissing between rolls of stsuitable machine.

In the next step of the process the prepared top is assembled, together with an insole 24, upon a suitably-shaped wooden" form or last 26. the bottom face of which is yu-ovidd with a metal plate. This insole is made of a material of a texture which will receive lasting tacks driven into it, and at the same time Withstand the heatused in vnlcanizing the shoe as, for example, a comprhssed felt or a suitably Wfiif-pP00f8d layer of fibcroid. It is also preferable that the upper side of the insole be coated with cement in order that the insole may receive the overlasted margin of the top and become consolidated with the bottoming materials used in making the shoe.

To enable the puilingover and lasting operations which are to be performed to produce the best results and alsoto obtain the desired shape of the shoe bottom, this insoleis preferably molded to the conformation of the bottom of the form. For arctic work the insole, as iilust rated, has a decided break at the heel breast line 28 in order that the arctic may provide the necessary pocket toreccive the heel of the shoe when the arctic is being worn. The molded insole is secured to the last by two or three tacks in the fol-spurt, shank and heel and the shoe then presented to a machine which is adapted first to apply tension toil-1e toe porlion of the top and a tension simultaneously to opposite sides of the blank at the toe. A machine which can advantageously be used for this purpose is shown in United States Letters Patent No. 663.777, granted Dec. 1]. 1900 on application of Ronald F. lllt-Feely. lhis machine is provided with a set of grippers 29 arranged to seize the upper at the toe end of the last and another set of grippers 30 arranged to seize the blank at, opposite sides of the toe and in the first cycle of its operation a forward tension 15 applied to the toe end. of the upper so as to draw the upper firmly against, the heel of the last and draft. the upper longitudinally about the last and then exert a tension simultaneously on opposite sides of the upper to draw the blank into the conraved instep portion of the last. Snbsequent cycles of operation of the machine carry the seized marginal portions 5 of the lilank over on the insole and while under tension secure. the blank to the insole by a plurality of tacks driven at the pnlledover portions of the top along the sides and at the toe. By reason of the stitched connection between the vamp and the quarter it is possible in the pulling-over operation to exert a considerable tension on the upper and pull it down tightly to the conformation of the last without distorting or otherwise injuring the upper.

l ollovvirng the pulling-over O})Cl":stl0ll the remaining portions of the blank are worked over on the insole and secured in lasted position to com lete the shaping of the top to the form. .onveniently and advantageously these remaining portions of the blank are lasted by a ninrhine of the well-known hand method lusting machine type which operates by repeated progressive operations of the gripper 34 to seize the marginal portion of the top, tension it about the last and then carry the margin 5 over on the insole 2+ and secure it by the lasting tacks 32. Owing to the molded formation of the insole both the pullingmver and lasting operations on the arctic are facilitated and the margin of the upper tacked down on the insole firmly and accurately. The upper is, of course. held firmly in lasted position on the insole by the tacks which have been re ferred to. Both of these machine operations v on the shoe will be performed in such man nor that each shoe is shaped to the form 26 accurately and uniformly and at. a. speed which compares favorably with hand work without involving the element of variation in quality and quantity of work which isa frequent accompaniment of hand labor.

Preferably, and as herein illustrated, a

' joxing 35 is applied around the heel end of the shoe after the shoe has been lasted to the innersole or. as herein described, ulledover and lasted. inasnuich as it is found more convenient to apply the foxing to the narter at this time rather than to apply the foxing to the uarter before it. is assembl on the last. ll oreover, the forward ends oi the foxing may be carried over the stitches 22, connecting the quarter with the ramp at this time, and the foxing conformed more accurately and uniformly sumed by the quarter on the form. while it is preferable, as herein set. forth, to apply the vamp foxing 18 to the vam before the vamp and quarter are assemb ed together and the quarter foxing after the arctic is lasted to the insole, the invention is not limited to this procedure, but oomprehends any application of the foxing which may be found most desirable either before or after the prepared top is assembled on the form.

After the margin 5 of the top has been lasted on to the inner-sole and secured in position by the tacks 32, subsequent. operations on the shoe to complete its manufacture are performed in the Usual manner. These operations ordinarily include apply ing a filler piece to the bottom ofthe shoe, the tiller ipiece fitting within the overlasted margin 0 the top. app'ying a binder to the shoe bottom and then an outsole 28 to the shoe, the entire shoe bottom thereafter being rolled or pressed to bring the bottoming materials into proper adhesion for vul canization. 'lhereafter the shoe is vulranized in any preferred manner. Owing to the steps followed in making the shoe, and particularly in preparing the top for application to the form. the shoe vulcanizes uniformly and completely and without producing: the number of defective shoes or seconds" which were incident to the prior methods of making shoes. It will be observed that by the practice of the method herein set forth the labor or production cost, of making arctic and similar rubber shoes is reduced and the product obtained superior to the hand-nmdc shoes both in up pezirnnce and in the lit and the Wearing qualities of the shoes.

It is to be understood that the herein described method is not limited to a Vulczmized shoe having a two-part top as a vamp and :1 quarter, but is of general applicuhility to all types of rubber footwear which have heretofore been made by separately applying to a form the various pieces of shoe parts which are to constitute the shoe.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in methods of malt ing; arctic shoes which consists in cutting out pieces to constitute the vamp of the arctic, including the lining. a cashmerette and a collarette; cuttin out pieces to constitute the quarter of tie arctic, including a lining, a collarctte, a cashmeretz e and a to the contour asjunior, assemblipp the pieces of the vamp and the pieces the quarter, uniting the vamp and. the quarter in'to an assembled top unit, subsequently amembiing the unimy top and an insole upona form, and

thereafter attaching the margin of the top t an insole and rforming subsequent operations to comp etc the shoe.

2. That improvement in methods of making arctic shoes. which consists in cutting out the pieces to constitute the vamp of the arctic including a lining, a cashmerette and acollarette; cutting out the ieces to constitute the quarter including a ining, a collarefize, cashmerette and 1unior; said pieces having adhesive coated portions, fittin together the said pieces of the vamp an the quarter into a single unitary top and pressing together the said pieces to secure uniform adhesion of the ieces in fitted positions, subsequently assem lin the unitary top with an insole upon :1. arm,

and thereafter attaching the margin of the top to the said insole and erforming subsequent operations to comp etc the shoe.

3. That improvement in methods of makarctie shoes which consists in cutting Sut pieces to constitute the vain of the irctic including a lining, 2. cas merette, and a collarettc; cutting out the pieces to constitute the quarter including a lining, a collarette, a cashmcrette and a junior, fitting the pieces of the vamp and the pieces of the quarter; overlapping ort-ions of the vamp and the quarter at eitl ier side of the shoe and stitching them together to constitute a unitary top, subsequently assembling the unitary top with an insole upon a form, and thereafter attaching the mar gin of the top to the insole and performing subsequent operations to complcte the shoe.

4. That improvement in methods of nmlo ing arctic shoes which consists in cutting out pieces to constitute the vamp of the shoe including a lining, a collarette and a cashmerette, said ieces having adhesive coated portions over apping the adhesive coated portions of the said pieces together in assembled relation and pressing said portions together to secure adhesion between the said pieces, similarly making up a quarter for the arctic, stitching together the made-up vamp and the made-up quarter to 01m a unitary top, subsequently assembling the unitary top with an insole upon a last, and thereafter attaching the margin of the top to the insole and performing subsequent op erations to complete the shoe.

5. That improvement in methods of making arctic shoes which consists in cutting out the pieces which are to constitute the vamp of the arctic including the lining, the collarettc, and the cnshn'icrcttc, matching the said pieces together ivith cement and rolling assembled pieces to effect adhesion,

a lin afoxin totheu ermar'alsii l ce of the assembled vali p, simild i ly cutting, out and matching together pieces to constitute a quarter of the arctic, securing the made-up vamp and the made-up gust-tel: together at o posits sides to reuce a unitary top, su sequently assemb mg the unitar ..top to ether with an insole upon a last, an therea ter attachin' the margin of the top to the insole an performing subsequent operations to complete the shoe.

6. That improvement in methods of making arctic shoes which consists in cutting out pieces to constitute the vamp of the arctic including a lining, a. cashmQ-atte, and a collarettepputting ,out pieces to onstitute the shoe quarter including-"a lining, a collarette, a cashmerette and a junior, assembling the pieces of the vamp and the pieces of the quarter; uniting the assembled vamp and the assembled quarter at opposite sides, subsequently assembling the unitary top with an insole upon a last and securing the top to the last at the heel and tensioni the toe end of the top forwardly, and simu taneously tensioning the top at opposite sides of the toe, securing the tcnsioncd top to the insole around the toe, conforming the remaining portions of the top to the last under tension and securing them to the insole, and thereafter applying an outsole to the shoe bottom and vulcanizing the shoe.

7. That improvement in methods of making arctic shoes which consists in cutting out pieces to constitute the vamp of the 100 arctic including a lining, a cashmerette and a collarette; cutting out the pieces to constitutc the quarter including a lining, a collarctte, a cashmerctle and. a junior; fitting together the said pieces of the vamp and 105 the said pieces of the quarter and uniting the vamp and the quarter at opposite sides of the shoe into a unitary top, subsequent-- ly assembling the unitary top and an insole upon a last, pulling-over the top to 110 shape it to the last and securing the top in pulled, over position to the insole, lasting the remaining portions of the to and securing them in lasted position on t e insole and tlicrcnftcr applying an outsole to i the shoe bottom and vulcanizing the shoe.

Thai lmprovcmcut in methods of making arctic shoes which consists in cutting out pieces to constitute the vamp of the arctic, including a lining, a cashmcrctte and a col iat'ctio; muting: out the pieces to constitute the quarter including a lining, a collarctte,

n iSllITlGI'QlliL and a junior; fitting together in Sillll pieces of the vamp and the'said pieces of the quarter, uniting the fitted vamp out the fiitcd quarter into a single top poriiou at opposite sidcs of the shoe, subsc uvniiy assembling the said top portion with an insole upon a last, seizing the toe port ion of the vamp at opposite sides of the vamp and pulling the top lengthwise of the insole and simultaneously at opposite sid'es of the insole to conform the top to the instep and toe portion of the lust and securing the tensioned portions to the insole, progressively lasting the remaining portions of the vamp and securing the lasted portion to the insole, leveling the bottom of the shoe, and thereafter applying shoe bottoming materials to the shoe and vulcanizing it in the usual manner.

9. That improvement in methods of making arctic shoes which consists in cutting out pieces constituting the vamp of the arctic including a lining, a collarette, and e cashmerette; cuttin out pieces to constitute the quarter 0 an erotic including a lining, a collarette, and cashmerette and a junior; fitting together the pieces of the vamp and the pieces of the quarter, uniting the vamp and the quarter into an assembled top unit, subsequently assembling the unitary top and an insole upon 3, form, shaping the top to the conformation of the form and working the marginal portion of the top into lasted position on the insole, and thereafter applying an outsole to the shoe bottom and vulcanizing the shoe.

10. That improvement in the art of making rubber or rubberized footwear which comprises cutting out a number of properly shaped pieces composed of or containing unvulcanized rubber including outer members and lining members, superposing such members as are designed to be superposed, pressing them to other while flat, uniting the members to orm the closed upper of a shoe, assembling the closed upper, to

gether with an insole, upon a, last, lasting the upper, laying an outsole and vfilfiiifiiz ing the shoe.

11. That improvement in the art of melt ing rubber or rubberized footwear which comprises cutting out the pieccs which are to constitute the vamp and those which are to constitute the quarter, building up the vamp by superposing the pieces thereof one upon another and pressing them together while flat, building up the quarter in the same manner, fastening the qlunrtcr and vamp together to form a closer upper, as sembling the closed upper together with an insole upon a last, lastingthe upper, lay ing an outsulc and vulcanizing the shoe.

12. A method of making footwear comprising vamp and quarter members each of a plurality of pieces of cloth and rubber cspable of union by vulcunizution, which consists in super-posing the pieces oi the vunip, superposing the pieces of the quarter, uniting the quarter and vamp thus formed to provide an upper, drawing the upper upon a last and securing it to u sole, and tinaliy subjecting the article to vulcanization.

13. A method of making footwear com.-

prising ramp and quarter members each of u plurality oi pieces of cioth and rubber, which consists in sumrposing and cementing together the pieces of the vamp, superposing and cementing together the pieces oi the quarter, securing together the quarter and vamp thus formed to provide an upper, lasting the upper and connecting it to a sole, and subjecting the article to vulcanization.

14. The method of making footwear comprising vamp and quarter members each of a plurality of pieces of cloth and rubber, which consists in superposing the pieces of the quarter in the tint and uniting them by adhesion, similarly superposing and uniting the pieces of the vamp, securing the quarter and vamp together to form an upper, lasting the upper and connecting it to a sole, and subjecting the article to vulcanization.

15. The method of making footwear comrising vamp and quarter members of a plurality of pieces of rubberized cloth and of rubber, capable of union by vulcanization, which pieces of the quarter, subjecting sembled quarter pieces to pressure the asthereby uniting them through adhesion; and sim1- lurly superposing end uniting the parts of the vamp, securing the quarter and vamp together to form an upper, drawing the upper upon a last and connecting it to a. sole, and subjecting the article to vulcanization.

16. In. a method of nmking footwear comprising vamp and quarter members each of a plurality of pieces of rubberized cloth and rubber capable of union by vulcanization, the step of super-posing the pieces of the quarter, subjecting the said pieces to pres sure whereby they are united through adhesion, and similarly superposing and uniting the parts oi the vamp, and securing the quarter and vamp together to form an upper for lusting to a sole.

1?, "ihe method of making footwear comprising! rump sud quarter members each 0 a plurality of pieces of cloth and rubber capable of union by vulcanization, which consists in supcrposing the pieces of the quarter with the omission of a heel losing, supcrposing the parts of the vamp, overlapping the aforesaid parts of the quarter upon the ramp and securing the vamp to the quarter by stitching, and covering the lines of, stitching! by a heel foxing.

consists in superposing the iii The method ofmuking footwear comsole, and subjecting the article to vulcanization.

19. As a new article of manufacture, an upper for lasting to a sole to form; footwear, comprisin vam and quarter members each of a plura ity 0 places of cloth and rubber united by adhesion and capable of per inanent union by vulcanization, the said vamp and quarter members being connected together.

20. As a new article of manufacture, an upper for lasting to a sole to form footwear, comprising a vamp lining, an inner waterproofing vamp member, a cloth Vamp and a rubber toe foxing, the said pieces being united together by vulcanizable adhesive and forming the ramp, and a quarter lining, a counter, a collar, 3 quarter member .md a rubber heel foxing united together by vulcanizable adhesive and forming a quarter, the vamp and quarter being connected together.

21. As a new article of manufacture, an upper for footwear, comprising vamp and quarter members each of a plurality of united pieces of cloth and rubber capable of union by vulcanization, and the two be ing connected together, the said upper being characterized by the fact that the superposed united pieccs of both quarter and vamp are disposed in assembled relationship without tension upon or distortion of the threads of the fabric incorporated therein.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

CHARLES H. MORRILL.