US1497220A

US1497220A - Attachment for sewing machines

Info

Publication number: US1497220A
Application number: US336256A
Authority: US
Inventors: Albertus B Mattingly
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1919-11-07
Filing date: 1919-11-07
Publication date: 1924-06-10
Anticipated expiration: 1941-06-10

Description

June 10 1924. 1,497,220

A. B. MATTINGLY ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed Nov- 7. 1919 s sheds-sheep 2 June 10, 1924. 7 1,497,220

' A. B. MATTINGLY ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed Nov. 7, 1919 6 Sheets-Sheet I5 llllllll'l-lllll I June 10 1924. 1,497,220

' A. B. MATTINGLFY I 4 ATTACHMENT 'FOR SEWING MACHINES 6 SheetsSheet 4 Filed Nov. '7, 191.9

Inventor:

June 10, 1924. 1,497,220

A. B. MATTINGLY ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed Nov. 7 1919 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 Juhe 10, 1924. 1,497,220.

' A. B. MATTINGLY ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed Nov. 7. 1919 6 Sheets-Shet e m9 nap r;

Patented June 10, 1924-.

warren stares LQFLZZQ PATENT @FFEQE.

ALBERTUS B. MATTINGLY, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

ATTACHMENT FGB- MACHINES.

Application filed November a nature similar to that disclosed in British Letters Patent No. 17,153 of 1905, to Hills, and United States Patents No. 412,081, to Fletcher, No. 446,7 36, to Fletcher, No. 990, 601, to Seward, and No. 990,610, to Turck, and the object is to overcome some of the objectionable features of these devices and to further improve the same.

The principal objects are to provide a device of this character to automatically cut or slit the cloth just in advance of the stitching or binding of the button-hole so that the needle may pass alternately through the cloth and then through the slit or cut, thus causing the thread to be brought through the out and make a perfect binding of the raw edges of the work, and to provide a means for positively actuating the knife with a quick and decisive action at the proper periods to make the cut the proper length according to the length of the button-holes, and to have the length of cut automatically adjust itself with the adjusting of the device for the length of the button-hole.

The further objects are to provide a device of this character which will provide a means for more evenly distributing the stitches around the contour of the buttonhole than has heretofore been accomplished, and to provide a means whereby a more perfect adjustment of the cutting device as regards its alinement relative to the needle of the sewing machine is obtained.

The still further objects are to provide a device of this character which by its construction is considerably reduced in height and thereby doing away with the necessity of removing the face plate of the sewing machine to adjust the presser bar, and by the construction of the base plate obviating the necessity of removing the feed dogs of the sewing machine.

The still further objects are to provide an improved ratchet device for effecting the 7, 1919. Serial No. 336,256.

lateral vibration of the work clamp,'to produce the overstitch of the edge of the button-hole, and to form other parts of the device by the stamping process, screw machines, which is the cheapest method ofmanufacturing devices of this class.

A still further objectis to provide a de vice of this kind in which the knife can be ad usted to cut a line or slit in which the needle will follow with its inside lines ofits vibrating motion on its forward movement and also perform thesame function on its backward movement in forming or stitching the button-hole.

With these and other objects in view, it

will be seen that I accomplish the foregoing,

by referring to the accompanying drawings forming a part of this specification; but I do not wish to confine myself to the exact construction shown, as I have, for'the sake of clear illustration, exaggerated some of the parts, especially in the side elevations, and the cam faces of the yoke upon which the eccentric cam works. i

In the accompanying drawings, showing one'embodiment of my invention, Figure 1 is a plan view of the device; Fig.2 is a similar view to Fig. 1, partly broken away to show the revolving disk and the cam for moving the work clamp; Fig. 3 isa similar view to Fig. 2, with the revolving disk removed; Fig. 4 is a similar view to Fig. 3 and a section taken on line lt of Fig. 5; Fig. 5 is a side elevation; Fig. 6 is a sectional view taken on the line 66 of Fig.

. 5; Fig. 7 is a similar view to Fig. 6; Fig. 8

12 is a detail plan of the vibrator; Fig. 13

is an end elevation of the vibrator; Fig. 1 1 is a side elevation of the vibrator; Fig. 15 is a perspective view of the vibrator-carrier; Fig. 16 is a plan of the supporting plate; Fig. 17 is a bottom plan of the revolving disk; Fig. 18 is a central. section of the revolving disk; Fig. 19 is a plan of. the camming plate; Fig. 20 is a sideelevation of the camming plate; Fig. 21 is a plan of the knife carrier; Fig. 22 is a side elevation of the knife carrier; Fig. 23 is a plan of the knife shield and, integral therewith the stripper plate for the needle and the guide p for the work clamp; Fig. 24 is a side elevation of Fig. 23; Fig. 25 is a plan of the work clamp; Fig. 26 is a plan of the ratchet cam; Fig. 27 is a section of the ratchet cam; Fig. 28 is a plan of the pawl plate of the vibrator; Fig. 29 is a plan of the spring pawl for operating the ratchet cam; Fig. 30 is a bottom plan of the cam member showing the cam for operating the knife and the race cam for controlling the work clamp; Fig. 31 is a plan of the upper portion of the assembling stud carrying the brake springs; Fig. 32 is a side elevation of Fig. 31; Fig. 33 is a plan of the lower portion of the assembling stud and Fig. 34 is a side elevation of Fig. 33; Fig. 35 is a plan of the linkage for alining the work clamp and knife with the needle; Fig. 36 is a diagrammatic view showing the movement of the work clamp and cam when the operating cam moves in a circular motion; Fig. 37 is a view similar to Fig. 36, but showing the cam moving in an elliptical path.

I provide a suitable base plate 1, which is secured to a rear throat plate 2 of the sewing machine in any suitable manner, but preferably screwed thereto as shown in Fig. 1 of the drawings.

The base plate 1 is provided with an ear 3, which is upwardly turned and carries the operating lever 4, which. rocks on pivot formed of a large screw, the lever at being provided with a bifurcated end 6, which engages the shank of the screw of the tightening collar of the needle bar of the sewing machine. The lever 41- is further :provided with an arc-shaped slot 7, through which passes the arm of the friction clutch, which receives its movement from the screw 8 in the ear 9 and the rear end 10 of the slot 7. The screw 8 is frictionally held from turning by the pressure of the spring 11 against 7 its head and the ear 9. The lever further provided with an arm of downward extension which has a bifurcated end 12 which operates the pawl 13 and the pawl plate 1 1 by the lever 15, which is mounted on the throat plate 2- by means of a body screw forming a pivot 16. In the forward end of the lever 15 is a pin 17 (see Figs. 9, 28 and 29) which operates the pawl 13 and the pawl plate letthrough the

slots

18 and 19.

The base plate 1 is further provided with a pivot or stud 20 made up of two

parts

21 and 22. The lower portion 21 of the stud is hollow and has its upper and lower ends turned down. leaving a body portion 23 which is slotted on opposite sides forming grooves 2% for the reception of the extensions 25 of the part 22, and a washer 26 is forced on to thelower part of the part 21. The washer 26 forms a substantial base for holding the stud in a vertical position on the base plate, which is done by the screw 27 passing through the washer and the base plate 1 and the hollow part 21 and being screwed into the part 22, which locks all of the several parts assembled on the stud in position by its head 28, in which are secured two springs 29 which act as friction brakes in connection with the cam member 30, which is driven by a friction device (see Figs. at and 10) composed of a friction ring 31 supported by a flange 32 on the cam member in the recess 33 of the ring is pivoted a friction dog 3st, which is normally held in contact with cam member 30 by a spring 35. The lever 36 of the dog passes through an opening or slot 7 in the operating lever 1 and is operated by the screw and the rear end of the slot 7, the screw 8 forcing the dog and ring backwards and relieving the pressure on the cam member. The springs 29 bearing against the surface 37 prevent the cam member from turning, and the rear end of the slot forces the dog forward and causes the nose 38 to bite or grip the surface 39 of the cam member 30 and revolve the same a predetermined amount, which is regulated by the screw 8. The plate a0 secured to the cam 30 keeps the ring in position.

Rotatably mounted upon the stud 20 and supported by the washer 26 are the pawl 13 and the pawl plate 14 (which are swung in an are by the end 12 of the lever 4: through the lever 15 and its pin 17, in a forward and backward movement). Rotatably mounted upon the stud 20 and resting upon the pawl plate :ltl: is ratchet cam il which receives a step by step rotary movement from the upturned end 138 of pawl 13 extending through a slot in plate 141-, and engaging in turn the notches 137 of ratchet cam 41, and which operates the vibrator 56, which has its support on the pawl plate and is pivoted on the pin 51 of the L-shaped member 52.

The base plate 1 is further provided with a cut-away portion 13 in which is located a linked member 4a having a slot and a circular opening 16 which fits the head of the screw 27 which acts as a pivot. Secured to the forward end of the linked member i l by a pivot is a link a7 with an upturned end 48, which is tapped for the screw 49 which passes through a hole in the ear 3 and it provided with a lock nut 50. By turning the screw 49 to pull or push the link l-T, the

slot can be made to line up perfectly with the needle and the stud 20 and held in this position by the lock nut 50. The slot 21-5 is for receiving the bottom end of the pin 51 of the L-shaped member 52 which is provided with a slot 53 for adjusting it upon the base plate 1 by the screw 54-, and it is provided with an upturned car 55 for adjusting it while the screw 54 is loose. The pin 51 is tight in the member 52 and its upper end forms a pivot for the vibrator 56,

which is connected thereto by the hole 57 in the ear 58, and when assembled the car 58 is capable of passing under the pawl 13 and pawl plate 14, while the yoke 59 straddles the ratchet cam and rests upon the pawl plate '14.

The vibrator 56 is provided with a pivoted block 60 which fits the inner faces of the rear yoke 62 of the work clamp 63, which straddles the stud 20 and rests on the supporting plate 01, which, working in conjunction with the cam member 30, keeps the forward part 64 of the work clamp in proper contact with the base plate 1 and prevents the bottom stripper plate 65 from leaving the slotted way 66 in the base as it is oscillated by the work clamp in connection with the ears 67. I

The supporting plate 61 is. held in position by resting on the shoulders 68 of the bottom part of the stud 21, which fits the hole 69 provided with slots through which pass the extensions 25 of the upper part 22 of the stud 20 and prevent it from turning and causing the springs 29 to act as friction brakes on the cam member 30, for which the upper part acts as a journal. The screw 27 pulling down on the part 22 pinches the plate 61 between the shoulder 68 and the part 70 of the upper part 22 of the stud.

Mounted upon the yoke 62 is the guide or shield 71 for the knife carrier 72, having its front end 7 8 in the form of a stripping plate which slides in a groove or space 74 formed by a plate 7 5, which is forced into the upper jaw 7 6 of the Workclamp. The rear end of the shield 71 is enlarged, forming a yoke 77 which rests on the yoke 62. The yoke 77 is provided with an ear 77 by which it is pivotally connected to a sliding member 78, which is provided with a rectangular opening 7 9 (see Fig. 6). The sides of the upper part 22 of the stud 20 are flattened so as to fit the sides of the opening 79 and form a guide or bearing for the member 78 and cause it to move in a straight right angle line relative to the stud and needle when operated by the pin 80 working in the cam groove 81 of the cam 30 formed by the cams 82 and 83, thus causing the vibrator to vibrate or oscillate the work clamp in the contour of a button-hole while the revolving disk is moving the work clamp back and forth the length of the button-hole. It will be noted that the pivot 78 passes through the ear 77 and the member 78 and into a rectangular block 79, which fits the inside 62 of the yoke 62 and forms a bearing upon which the work clamp is vibrated. Thus it will be seen that when the pin 80 moves the member 7 8 the pivot 78 will be on one side of a supposed line running through the stud 20 and the needle while one side of the button-hole is being formed and on the other the button-hole is being finished, thus giving a, more even are relative to the button-hole for the work clamp to swing on than has heretofore been accomplished, as the pivot has always been to one, side of the stud and i the are which the work clamp has to swing on is from difierent angles for each side of the button-hole, and this makes a difference in the lay of the stitches on the two sides of the button-hole.

Mounted upon the guide or shield 77 is the knife carrier 72, which has its spring portion 84 passing through the openings'85 and 86 of the shield 71 which act as guides for the carrier. The spring portion 84 has its outer end bent upward, with two ears 87 forming a pair of jaws for the knife 88, which is held by a pin or screw 89. The rear end of the springportion 84 is enlarged and bent upward, forming a flange 91 which forms a cam face 92 against which the cam 93 secured to cam member 30 works. In order to keep the cam face 92 and the cam 93 in contact, I provide a spring 90, which is secured to the shield by the hook 94 formed thereon and to a screw 94 on the knife carrier. The spring has a tendency to always draw the knife back from under the needle bar. At a predetermined point the flange 91 forming the cam face 92 is cut away or ends at 95, and is so formed at this point as to have a clearance space 96 to prevent hitting the cam 98 when the spring 90 causes the knife to move quickly back between the strokes of the needle and thus prevent the needle bar from striking the knife several times while it is being moved back from under the needle bar. This quick movement is caused by the cam 93, which holds the knife forward for the proper time, having an abruptdrop 97, so that-while it is revolving on the stud 20 the point 98 passes the point on the cam 92. The point 98 is so formed as to not interfere with the point 95, and this allows the carrier 72 to move back its full stroke at this point, which is accomplished on one of the upward strokes of the needle bar.

Mounted fixedly on the top of the stud 20 and held in place by dowel pins 99 is a camming plate 100, which works in conjunction with the driving plate 101 secured to the cam member 30 and which causes the revolving disk 102 to revolve in the path of an ellipse relative to the stud 20 and having its major axisin line with the work clamp and its m1nor axis transverse therewith and the intersection of its axes to the rear of the stud 20. The revolving of the disk inan elliptical path is caused by its pivot pin 103 shifting its position in the slot 104 as it revolves. The shifting of the pin is caused by the pivoted cam 105 sliding in the shallow slot 106. It will be noted that the slot 104 is deeper than the slot 106'; this is to prevent the pin 103 from entering the slot 106 at the critical point when the disk 102 is being driven by the driving plate 101, which is connected to the disk 102 by the pivoted cam or block 107, which is free to slide in the slot 108 of the driving plate.

The foregoing movement will be more clearly understoot by referring to Fig. 3, where 1 have indicated by dotted linesthe position of the pivoted cams and pins and the starting: position of the driving plate for each cycle. To make a button-hole, with the driving plate in the position indicated in dotted lines 109, the cam will be at 110 and the pivot pin 103 at 111 and cam 105 at 112. \l 'hen the driving plate reaches the position indicated at 113 the cam 10'? will be at 11 1 and its center will represent the end of the minor radius of the ellipse and the cam 105 will be at 115 and the pivot pin 103 will be in the center of the canning plate. lVhile the driving plate is moving to the position shown in full lines the pivot pin 103 moves along the slot 104: to 110 and the cam 105 returns to the center of the camming plate and as the driving plate continues its circular moven'ient to the position 109 the cam 105 moves over to 117 and back to the center of camming plate. Mounted upon the revolving disk is an adjustable cam 118 held in position by a stud 110 having a rectangular head 120 which fits the recess 121 and which guides it in its movement. The stud passes through a slot 122 and the cam into a screw cap 123, which causes the cam 118 to bind against the disk 102. This cam moves in an elliptical path,

and the lengths of the axes are changed by the adjustment of the cam on the disk 102 relative to thepin 103. The earn 118 performs the function of the eccentric cam of r the patents mentioned in this specification and produces a more satisfactory result.

he cam 118 moves the work clamp forward and back from the stud and in line with the needle through the yoke member 124e, which is secured to the work clamp and is provided with a slot 125 in which the cam 113 is located, and as the cam revolves it works against the face 126 first to drive the clamp forward and against the face 127 to draw the clamp back. The yoke member 121- is secured to the work clamp 62 by means of screws 128, and the forward end is bifurcated and bent so as to form bear ings for the locking; member 129, which is formed of a bent wire having a central portion 130 which acts in the capacity of a hand lever to operate the two end portions 131 which act upon the spring extensions 132 of the upper jaw 63 and which are riveted to the rear yoke 62 of the work clamp.

Mounted on the underside of the base plate 1 (see Figs. 8 and 9) is a spring member 133, which is held in position by the rivets 13-41 and has an upwardly extending portion 135 which extends through the open ing 136 of the pawl plate 14: and into the holes 13? of the ratchet cam 11. This prevents the ratchet cam from being turner backwards by friction of the end 138 of the pawl slipping out of any one of the holes 137 upon its backward movement after it has revolved the ratchet cam one-tenth of a turn.

The base plate is further bent 0r formed so as to have a raised portion 139 through the center thereof, upon which the bottom of the work clamp slides and on which is cut the channel or groove 66 for the stripper plate 65, which has an opening" 1410 somewhat in the shape of a T. Beneath the stripper plate in the base plate is an opening 1 11 to allow the needle to perform its functions. The raised portion 139 forms a channel or groove 1612 (see Fig. 10), which allows the free action of the feed dogs of the sewingmachine and raises the device enough to permit the cutting of the cloth without the knife hitting the dogs on its downward stroke.

The operation of the device is very simple. The rear throat plate of the sewing machine is removed and the device is slipped in its place by the insertion of the throat plate 2 which. is screwed to the device, and the shank of the screw which holds the necdle in position passes into the bifurcated end 0 of the lever 1. When the attachment is first put on the machine the screw 5st and lock nut 50 are loosened and the screw 4;?) turned to bring the knife in line with the needle. The lock nut 50 is then tightened up. This holds the slot 4C5 in a perfect line with the needle and then the member 52 can be adjusted for any width of vibration for the work clamp. The screw 5-1 is then tightened and the attachment is ready for operation. It will be understood that after the knife has been once adjusted for the needle the attachment can be removed if desired and put back without the knife being readjusted, and the vibrating movement of the work clamp can also be changed to take more or less bite when the attachment is adjusted. to make a larger or smaller butt-onhole, without disturbing;- the adjustment of the knife. i

To make a button-hole, the work clamp is set by operating the sewing machine until the extreme back position is reached. The lever 130 of the locking member 129 is then pressed forward, (that is, in the direction of the needle), and forces the ends 131. back wards and thus relieves the pressure of the springs 132, which allows the jaws of the work clamp to open. The cloth is inserted between the jaws and the lever 130 pushed back to its original position, thus causing the upper jaw to force the cloth down into the concave opening in the lower jaw, and at the same time the flanges 143 of the upper jaw prevent the slipping of the cloth on the lower jaw and thus causes the cloth to be stretched like a drum head. With the work clamp in this position the knife is in the dotted position shown in Fig. 5, and upon running the machine the needle bar strikes the top of the knife and forces it through the cloth each time the needle descends, until the work clamp is almost at its extreme forward position, when the cam 93 is at the point where the point or nose 98 passes the point The spring 90 causes the carrier 72 to move swiftly back and draw the knife out of line with the needle bar before it'has time to descend and strike it again, (as shown in full lines in Fig. 5), thus preventing further cutting, and the knife remains in this position until the button-hole is finished.

The pivot 78 is the pivot center upon which the work clamp is oscillated by the vibrator 4-1. lVith each upward movement of the needle bar the lever 4 is raised, which in turn swings the pawl plate 14 sufficiently to have the pawl 138 act on one of the holes 137 of the ratchet cam and revolve it one-tenth of a revolution, which causes one of the pointed cam faces 143 to act on one side of the yoke 59 and cause the vibrator to swing to one side on its pivot 51. The face 144 prevents any overthrow of the vibrator. The next stroke of the needle causes one of the faces 143 to act on the opposite side of the yoke 59 and swing it in the opposite direction. This movement of the vibrator causes the work clamp to be oscillated on its pivot 78, such motion being transmitted through the block 60 of the vibrator. While the vibrator is oscillating the work clamp in one direction or the other with every stroke of the needle to make the needle pass first through the cloth and then through the cut, the elliptical cam is slowly shoving the work clamp forward the length of the button-hole, the speed of the forward movement being regulated by the screw 8, which strikes the arm or lever 36 of the friction clutch and forces the ring 31 back a predetermined amount, (upon the downward stroke of the needle). The rear end 10 of the slot 7, upon reaching the arm 36, (on the upward movement of the needle) forces the ring to move forward and the nose 38 to bite into the cam member 30 and cause it and the revolving disk to revolve, which causes the cam 118 to act upon the face 126 of the yoke member 124 and shove the work clamp forward, and when the cam, on the last half of the revolution of the revolving disk, works against the face 127 it causes the work clamp to be drawn backwards. The revolving of the cam member 30 causes the pin 80 to shift its position while the button-hole is being made. This is due to the pin 80 being held relative to the'stud 20 by the groove 81 and in the start is in the portion 145 which forms a part of the back end of the buttonhole, that is, the part which is furthest from the edge of the garment. The part 146 holds the pin in a position so that the vibrator will vibrate the work clamp up one side of the slit which is being made by the knife for the buttonhole. The part 147 then causes the pin 80 to move nearer to the stud 20, and this causes the first part of the loop or eyelet to be made, and the part 148 causes the pin 80 to move the farthest away from the stud,

and this causes the semicircular end of the eyelet to be made. The part 149 causes the pin 80 to move near to the stud, and this causes the completion of the eyeletl, The pin is then held in position by the part 100 until the vibrating of thework clamp down the other side of the slit completes the buttonhole by the pin going to its original position in the portion 145. It will be understood that whatever distance the pin 80 moves the pivot 78 moves the same amount and at the start of the button-hole is in line with the stud and the needle and between the two. When the pin 80 is in the part 145 of the groove 81, the pivot 78 then moves to one side of the stud, while the pin 80 moves into 146, and still further to the side as the pin moves into 147, and when the pin 80 is passing from 147 to 148 the pivot 7 8 crosses the line of the stud and needle to the extreme opposite side and when the pin 80 enters the part 149 the pivot 78 draws nearer to the ly and at two different slants for the opposite sides. This operation forms what is known by the trade as the eyelet or looped buttonhole. It will be noted that the cam member 80 revolves an equal distance at each stroke of the needle, and if the cam 118 were attached directly to the cam member the cam would move in a circle and wouldpile up too many stitches at the end and make a defective button-hole; but by having the cam move in an elliptical path this is obviated. Of course it isdesirable to have the stitches a little closer at the back end than on the side, but not to the extent which would be produced if the circular movement were used.

By referring to the diagrammatic Figs. 36 and 37, it will be seen more clearly the advantages gained by the cam 118 moving in an elliptical path instead of the circular cam member 30 for every ten strokes of the needle or for every ten stitches, and the point where each dotted line 150 touches the semi-circle 151 indicates where the cam 118 would be; for instance, after the first ten stitches it would have moved from a to 7) and the second ten stitches from Z) to c and so on until after a hundred and twenty stitches it would be at m and the first half of the button-hole would be finished, and the reverse movement would under the same condition, while the cam 118 is completing the circle, complete the button-hole. The vertical lines represent the forward movement of the cam 118 and the horizontal lines 153 the work clamp, and the vertical lines 154 represent the forward movement of the Work clamp. It will be noted that all of the lines 153 are exactly the same length in both figures, and when the cam 118 moves from a to Z) ten stitches are crowded into the space between a and 0, and when it moves from b to 0 ten are made in the space from 0 to 37, and so on, and as the cam 118 moves from a to g each of the spaces 155 from n to 2/ increases in length and thus it vill be seen that entirely too many stitches are crowded into the space from n to 0 and 0 to p, while from 12) to Q the stitches would be normal and g to 1 would not have suflicient stitches, and 1" to s and s to t entirely too few, and the exact reverse condition would exist while the cam 118 is moving from g to m and the clamp from t to 2. Thus it will be seen that the circular movement gives a very uneven stitching ot the button-hole, by piling up too many stitches at the back end and entirely too few at the eyelet end, as the distance of travel or space is greatly increased by the curvature of the eyelet. It will be noted that the work clamp needs to be retarded at the eyelet end in order to allow more stitches to be made while the eyelet is being formed, and I accomplish this by having the cam 118 move in an elliptical path and by having the minor axis of the ellipse to the rear of the center of the stud 20, as will be seen by referring to Figs. 3, 19 and 37. It will be noted that the cam 118 follows an elliptical path, indicated by the line 156, and when the cam member 30 moves from a to Z the cam 118 moves from a to b, and when the cam member has moved to 0 the cam has moved to 0, and so on, and the clamp has moved from n to 0 while the cam member has moved from ato Z) and the earn from a: to b, and so on. It will be noted that the spaces n-0 are suitable for the back end and the space 0- 9 is almost normal and the spaces p'-q and g-r' are normal, and the spaces 1"s' to .2 are gradually shortened in order to compensate for the increased travel or lengthened space to be stitched while the eyelet is being formed,

and the work clamp at this point is moving in a line forming a compound curve instead of a straight line, and the retarding of forward movement allows the sewing machine to supply sutlicient stitches to make the eyelet have the proper number of stitches to compare with the sides of the button-hole. it is understood that the formation of the other side of the button-hole is the exact reverse of the movements shown in the diagrams and that the diagram in Fig. 37 shows the movement of the work clamp relative to the needle and the stud of the attachment, it being understood that the back end of the button-hole is the beginning of the operation and also the ending of the operation and that the back end is made while the work clamp is moving forward from n to 0 and the sides from 0' to t and the eyelet end from If to .2, or in other words, in the operation of making the button-hole the work on the button-hole is always in the reverse direction to the movement of the work clamp. It will be understood that 1 have stated for convenience of illustration that ten stitches are made between each of these divisions; but by regulating the screw 8 any number of stitches can be made between the divisions; and from the foregoing it will he clearly seen that the elliptical movement places the stitches very evenly along the sides of the button-hole and does not over-crowd the ends too much, as the space between 12 and 0 is greater than between nand 0.

Certain parts of the present mechanism are not claimed herein, but are claimed in applications Serial Nos. 353,107; 353,108; 217,401; 218,076; 352,980; 336,257; M6335 and 346,236.

lVhat I claim is:

1. In an attachment of the character stated, the combination of stitching mechanism includin a needle, a work clamp, a fixed stud having flattened sides, slidable member having a rectangular slot therein to permit lateral movement of said member with respect to the stud, a shield the front of which forms a stripping plate and the rear of which is in the form of a yoke surrounding the slidable member, an ear for said yoke, pivotal means connecting said ear with said slidable member, which pivot is normally disposed between said stud and needle and means connecting said work clamp and said shield.

2. In an attachment of the character stated, the combination of stitching mechanism including a needle, a work clamp, a fixed stud having flattened sides, a member having a rectangular slot therein movable laterally with respect to the stud, a cam and pin connection for moving said member laterally with respect to the stud, a shield the front of which forms a stripping plate and the rear of which is in the form of a yoke surrounding said member, an ear for said yoke, plvotal means connectlng sald ear with said member, which pivot is nor-.

mally disposed between said stud and needle and means connecting the said work clamp with said shield.

3. A device as described in claim 2 characterized by said shield having openings therein, a leaf spring passing through said openings and a knife carried by the outer end of said spring.

4. A device as described in claim 3 characterized by said leaf spring being en larged and bent upward at its inner end to form a cam face and a cam for moving said spring toward the needle.

5. A device as described in claim 4 characterized by means for the rapid return of said spring from the path of travel of the needle.

6. A device as described in claim 5 characterized by said leaf spring having its forward end bent upwardly to form a pair of jaws to receive the knife in vertical position and means for clamping said knife to place. 7

7. In a button-hole stitching attachment, the combination of a base, a fixed stud; a work-holder mounted to reciprocate along the base to move the work along the path of a reciprocating needle, and a pivot member on which the work holder is mounted to vibrate on a pivot located normally in alinement with the longitudinal axis of the work-holder and means for moving said pivot between said stud and needle and holding said pivot a portion of the time to one side of the alinement of said stud and needle and then on the other side of the said alinement; whereby the work-holder 'will vibrate in a symmetrical path on each side of the buttonhole.

8. In a button-hole stitching attachment, the combination of a base, a fixed stud; a work-holder mounted to reciprocate along the base to move the work along the path of a reciprocating needle, and a pivot member on which the work-holder is mounted to vibrate on a pivot located normally in alinement with the longitudinal axis of the workholder and means for moving said pivot between said stud and needle and holding said pivot a portion of the time to one side of the alinement of said stud and needle and then on the other side of the said alinement; whereby the work-holder will vibrate in a symmetrical path on each side of the buttonhole in the normal reciprocation of the work-holder, means for shifting said pivot further to one side and then across said longitudinal axis at the latter part of the advance of the work-holder whereby to shift the path of the stitches at one end of the button-hole, said means being adapted to shift said pivot the same amount on the opposite side of said axis on retraction of the work-holder whereby to shift the path of movement of the stitches on vibration of the work-holder on the opposite'side of the button-hole at the initial part of the return movement.

9.. In a button-hole stitching attachment, the combination of a base, a post on the base, a work-holder mounted to'reciprocate to move the work along the path of a reciprocating needle, means on said post for reciprocating the work-holder, and a pivot member on which the work-holder is mounted to vibrate laterally on opposite sides of its path of movement, said pivot being lo cated normally in alinement with the longitudinal axis of the work-holder and normally between the said post and needle and having a transverse movement relative to said post and needle.

10. In a button-hole stitching attachment, the combination of a base, a post 011 the base, a work-holder mounted to reciprocate to move the work along the path of a reciprocating needle, means on said post for reciprocating the work-holder, and a pivot,

member on which the work-holder is mounted to vibrate laterally on opposite sides of its path of movement, said pivot being located normally in alinement with the longitudinal axis of the work-holder and between the post and the work-holder and normally between the said post and needle and having a transverse movement relative to said post and needle.

11. In a button-hole stitching attachment, the combination of a base, a post on the base, a work-holder mounted to reciprocate to move the work along the path. of a reciprocating needle, means on said post for reciprocating the work-holder, and a pivot member'on which the work-holder is mounted to'vibrate laterally on opposite sides of its path of movement, said pivot being located normally in alinement with the longitudinal axis of the work-holder and normally between the post and the work-holder and a cam on said post arranged to shift said pivot member and pivot first to one side of said post and then to the other side of said post whereby to vary the path of vibration of the work-holder, on the final portion of the advance, and on the initial portion of the return movement, respectively, to produce an eyelet button-hole efi'ect. e

12. In a button-hole stitching attachment, the combination of a base, a post on the base, a 'work-holder mounted to reciprocate, means: for reciprocating the work-holder, a pivot plate having a slotted portion engaging said post to slide laterally of the work-holder path, a pivot on said plate on which the work-holder is mounted to vibrate on an axis normally in aline-ment with the longitudinal axis of the work'- holder, a cam on said post co-operating with said pivot plate whereby to shift said pivot to opposite sides alternately of said post, whereby to vary the pat-h of vibration of the work-holder.

13. In a battonhole stitching attachment, the combination of a base, a post on the base, a work-holder mounted to reciprocate, means for reciprocating the work-holder, a pivot plate having a slotted portion engagingsaid post to slide laterally of the worl holder path, a pivot on said plate on which the Work-holder is mounted to vibrate on an axis normally in alinement with the 1011- gitudinal axis of the work-holder, between the post and the work-holder, a cam on said post co-operating with said pivot plate whereby to shift said pivot to opposite sides alternately of said post, whereby to vary the path of vibration of the work-holder.

let. in a button-hole stitching attachment, the combination of a base, a post on the base, a vibrating cam rotatable on said post, a cam frame engaged by said cam to be vibrated, a pivot on the base on which the said frame swings, a block pivoted on said cam frame, a work-holder slidable along said block to be reciprocated, a cam on said post for reciprocating the worlcholder, a guid ing frame, a second block pivoted on the guiding frame and slidable on the workholder, a slotted frame slidable on said post transversely of the work-holder, said guiding frame being pivoted to said slotted frame whereby the guiding frame at said pivot c0nnection will form a pivot for vibration of the work-holder by its said cam frame and cam, said guide frame having a slidable connec tion with the work-holder.

15. In a button-hole stitching attachment, the combination of a base, a post on the base, a vibrating cam rotatable on said post, a cam frame engaged by said cam to be vibrated, a pivot on the base on which the said frame swings, a block pivoted 011 said cam frame, a work-holder slidable along said block to be reciprocated, a cam on said post for reciprocating the work-holder, a guiding frame, a second block pivoted on the guiding frame and slidable on the worlcholder, a slotted frame slidable on said post transversely of the work-holder, said guiding frame being pivoted to said slotted frame whereby the guiding frame at said pivot connection will form a pivot for vibration of the work-holder by its said cam frame and cam, said guide frame having a slidable connection with the work-holder, said pivot of vibration of the work-holder being in alinemer t with the longitudinal axis of the Workholder and normally between the said post and needle and having a transverse movement relative to said post and needle.

16. In a buttondiole stitching attachment, the combination of a base, a post on the base, a vibrating cam rotatable on said post, a cam frame engaged by said cam to be vibrated, a pivot on the base on which the said frame swings, a block pivoted on said cam frame, a work-holder slidable along said block to be reciprocated, a cam on said post for reciprocating the work-holder, a guid ing frame, a second block pivoted on the guiding frame and slidable on the workholder, a slotted frame slidable on said post transversely of the work-holder, said guiding frame being pivoted to said slotted frame whereby the guiding frame at said pivot connection will form a pivot for vibration of the work-holder by its said cam frame and cam, said guide frame having a slidable connection with the work-holder, said pivot of vibration of the work-holder being normally in alinement with the longitudinal axis of the work-holder, a cam on the said post connected with said slotted plate to move the plate laterally and thereby shift said pivot of vibration of the work-holder alternately on each side of the said post.

17. In a button-hole stitching attachment, the combination of a base, a post on the base, a vibrating cam rotatable on said post, a cam frame engaged by said cam to be vibrated, a pivot on the base on which the said frame swings, a block pivoted on said. cam frame, a work-holder slidable along said block to be reciprocated, a cam onsaid post for reciprocating the work-holder, a guiding frame, a second block pivoted on the guiding frame and slidable on the workholder, a slotted frame slidable on said post transversely of the work-holder, said guiding frame being pivoted to said slotted frame whereby the guiding frame at said pivot connection will form a pivot for vibration of the wo-rkholder by its said cam frame and cam, said guide frame having slidable connection with the work-holder, said pivot of vibration of the work-holder being in alinement with the longitudinal axis of the workholder and normally between the said post and needle and having a transverse movement relative to said post and needle.

Signed at New York. in the county of New York and State of New York, this 5th day of November, A. D. 1919.

ALBERTUS B. lili-XTTINGLY. Witnesses:

CHAs. W. LA Ron, W'M. H. REID.