US1469831A - Shoe - Google Patents

Description

HENRY NJAMINGoBMAm-QF QAEBBiIDGE, rzrsssjecr usisirr's, AssiG goR I010 UNIT-ED SHOE MACHINERY CORPOBATZON; or PA'rsRsoN, rmwmusuma ooRro Tlo (ZZZ/whom it inaiy condern Patented Oct. 9, 19 23.

NEWJERSEY; 1

" agppli fcationi filed August 1:5, 1

Be it known that I, HENRY;

GORMA'N, a citizen ofithe United States'; re: siding atCarhhridge, i thecountylof Middlesexand State of -Massachusetts, have in- Yented certain Improvementsin Shoes;

which [the-following description; ii connectibnf withithe accompanying -drawings, 1's; I A

1 stronger anchorage of the 011's V 10 y. lthe hianufacture; or; soles for boots 1 and I shoes 'and--more especially-1toimproyeinerits; insoles of the type having a margiiialcrib or shoulder; to receiiice the gstitches for ah} -taching,a shoe hppergfto thefsolek herein sho iin and' de j scribed for conveniencegir fillustratiomi but" by Way of limitatiom as embodied}: in solesrforfus'e in the manufiacture of turn The invention s a specification, like reference characters on the I drawings 1 indicating like parts the several figures. 7 A 5 I -This:1n ve1 t1on relates. to improvements m not atlall J V shoesfaiid particularly turn soles of the type disclosed in,-United' States -Patentz No.

sewing ribs'such as heretofore usedQbecaiISe T the sewing rihnterminates abruptly ats b heel breast liue of-the s oleand f 7 therefore does not offer the same resistance lf h war lyidire edstra r he' b. upper, that "t' does fthroughout other'poiw i stantially the 1,286,176,. :granted 7 on a an -alpp1icationf of e v V,

' sent they ho -to th e se I goodshoemaking. 'is to produce a-"pro-per fitting andr stroiigv,

' connectionof; the constituentlfparts of :the

. h s diflicult to secure With, soles ha ving George Ferguson; 7. i

shoe at or. near theiheel breast liiie.

is .very

tions of the r jThisdifficidty s is: further Z increasedibecause,ofthe additional thickness i of the 11 1mm i f hateri aLfat. the ,heeljhreaSt --4 -1i1'1e whiehfmakes necessary touse a; 11inch stronger seam; in;or der to bring the counter and upper materials 'into proper relation to:

the sewingribqf 'ainoldd-fcounterin la shoeforrth'e reason sho that the forwal fdtportion of the molded i.

A at TQSEQ;

fsole'anid tips it backward the r'e'sult that the" up e loose particularly a'djacerit m me-leave ed of the co11uter.-,,;; i

of V

of the shoe atpr nearft e h fm%rbeiqbtained;

' sh0 upp ei. hi c sewingrib {alo gion r heh e reai tfj i 'herein' illustrated; thi providingiobal depressions f eo' t eadja ent'towh ties at I such f 'an' an g as di fi-ng' shed;

eh c en of t s 'e: torthegls -sewing-. through t dlejgis' forced ides Moreover; in the manufacture 50f turn; s in whichvheisoie isiprovidedg-with a sewing rib Iwhich "terminates abruptly at or hear the he'el-b-reastxline ofthe fshoe fu rther v difficulties are experienced in incorporatifig The present iniveiition has for fa l ome produce angiihprf ved 19 oconstructed nd" i arraii'ged with" respect; that, a more accurate a a contemplates improved h v g a m r i a ly tolreceive the 'sti't' V its lnne tior f than at other. .p'ortion f es win ri -i @By; lease. pressions in; jthe ;s'o1 iti? Wi -D hat"- iiiwardlyoyerj the shoe bott o n against the sewing ribQ-ifO-fcou hich "th irie ntali'tie's controls {the piss stitch is; to be forifieHbutf-W shQgfiS ap se 1 m stani ny e depressions and causes the st H i 1m n per" materials, m forexample, iri theriand th hejtterfad'va rita gei Inaccoroiajlice I the invention the s 111 15 piqg l s vely ee Sflid' w d y 1 fr intsepiim m te 'ofithe shankipq t p Ofjt ole; ably, lsel-i 'dep ion nggr p re ives, sms- 1 'mination of the sewing rib as heretofore constructed isieliinin-ated, so that in practice the sole and-forward:portionof the heel for the shoe may'be seated solidly upon the sole proper,

structed as described is particularly applicable to the manufacture or turn shoes of the type in) which a previously molded counter is incorporated in" the shoe, whichi method .01 Inakingturn shoes is nowbcing extensively practised. In the mold d counterinrethod of making turn shoes the'molded counter. is seated upon the upper side of the sole after the upper has'been sewed t o the sole, and inasmuch as the'counter usually tends a: distance beyondfthe'heel breast line of t e she h i rwar p r o f t e counter has to be seated u'pon'the s'ewing rib.

Where the sewing rib terminates abruptly and forms a Sl oul l fS wi h p f construe, E tionsi'itfis obviousfthatl the jl'iQiWElIiICl end of a "thecounterisjrai T soleby these'wilig r14) d fir-om" the surface the beveledg terminalsof the sewing rib construe den pr vid br h sk a nt en t is di sed:

: invention will a'p '3earfrmn the fol-lowingxde el edj Fig; 315a cross-section llustratingthe at-g vantage isfq il ij afi tl it v Other obgects and j features of the present scription whe lgf bnsidered in connection with v the'accolnpanying drawing which: illustrates a preferred embodiment of thein'venti'on and 1 e n elieamre f he n ht will th n pa ed tin th ppe d cla ms- Eig l is a perspective view sole made i p v r i tage i taken of the depressions hand in accordance with the present invent-ion Fig, 2 is sectional view on. the lin 2 2' zof Fig. Land llustrat ng the use of the; sole 1 of aturn" shoe having in} the m a'ctu' pper to the sole on ra g ment o the st t en sho Pa le i i t shoe isjturnedj he regi n. of h h l w s. l ne a ter he L when is of were 7 ing rib terminating at substantially the heel ta t'il 'neefth $0 n her de. o s th sgeneral'character'either for lwelt or a turn work'and madeof leather con' posiaches heretofore constructed provide ase'w A solefhaving a sewing 'rib coni a t v v. whiaihlfimlt f a 1- factory attachment of the counterinposition on the 'sole, EHOw ver Qby: reason of the along the inside rib 0-5 the rib 4 ing rib structure inwhich the base or root 01 the rib along its inner side occupies substan tially the same plane throughout and'which the present invention the upper surface of the-sole acent to'theinner walls 5 of the sewing rib t is provided with depressionsfl extending fronra point forwardly of the heel breast'line and about midway of the "sh'ankportion to the termination of the sewing'rib at the heel seat portion of the sole These depressions 6 preferably increase in depth rearwardly and are of sufiicient width to give clearance to the sewing needle of a sewing niachineas it emerges from the inner wall ofthe rib during the sewing operation.

By reason of these depressions it will be seen that'the base or root f the'rib adjacent to the depressions is located in a lower plane; than is'the base of the/rib throughout other portionsofthe sole. Consequently when a shoe upper is beingv attached to the sole'the sewingj nachine operator, when'jsewing in the region of the heel breast line, is enabledto 'manipulateor tip the shoe as" illustrated I in, Figi i-S- so that the sewing instrumentalitiescan formthe stitchin a lower plane than through the are;

partoi the sole.

of sewing machine needle, relatively to thesole wl en,isewing through thevforepart of the shoeff 9flies in'a: plane'substantially parallel to'the tread plane' of the sole and the tension of i i v7 1 The"line"a c6 indicates the) pathf It will beinote d that-the stitch the stitch 9 is in a direction nearly at 3;

right angle to the perpendicular walls of thelsewinpf rib l. The'l inebstf(Figfii) indicates th e path of the. needle when"advan; the

shoe tipped so that the stitch 9 is. format I along the base theinnerwal'l 8 of therijb, llhe st tch" 9 at 'thi'sj pointllies in a plane] which is i n'c linecl inwardlyand downwardly relatively to the tread plane ofithe sole in stead substantially parallel as. u e tread plane as in the forepaitffAlso, the. strain stitch on the upper rnateriajls isat a more acute an le'to theirierp en'dic'ul'arwalls shown i'n Fig. 3.

needle when sewing In the" region of the breast line sii'bstantiallylbisects th e fa ngle formed by the feather 190i the and the outer wan of the rib 'whichinsures the uppern aterials being drawn bylth'e stitches 'le. The result of:

gh y" a t thir b, th s t k g up any eicess, fullness upper niaterials about I It; Wlll be appreciated that iii in stances Where the heavy aumerjteriminas V the last.

@1311? the-"forepg t s 111 f e h -Pat f the of a shoe are included with the upper ma; terials at the breast line. the above described construction and arrangement of the stitches is particularly advantageous; laying the inner termination of'the. stitches deeper into the body of the sole 3) not only is the holding power of the stitch increased but there is little,if any, opportunity for the tensioned upperto pull the ends of the sewing rib outwardly and thus allow the upper to slacken andrpresent a loose and bulged appearance at the heel breast line of the shoe- This latter-advantage is of considerable practical importance, "particularly with the manufactured type of insoles for welt shoes inasmuch as the heavy counter.

material, in addition to the upper "stock, places the terminals a Continuous outward strain which, unless counteracted, as by the attachment of the heel to the shoe, results in a bulky and undesirable appearance of'the shoe upper along the shank.

- 2-5 r on either side of the sole about midway'of' sewing rib, luring I depressions 6 to enable the to be' drawn farther 1n As herein shown the sewing rib-4 is also decreased in height rearwardly from a polnt the shank portion tothe heel seat portion, this decrease preferably corresponding to the increased depth of the depressionsfi. These sloped terminal portions 10 of the the sewing operation, cooperate with the upper materials wardly on to the insole by the inseam stitches. Further, the edges of the upper materials and also the counter, if included in the inseam, being drawn inwardly and downwardly, are-caused to lie more flatly on the surface of the sole, thus reducing the shoulder heretofore produced by the abrupt termination of the ribs. 7 I By forming depressions '6 in the surf-ace of the sole adjacent to the sloped terminal portionslO of the rib in the: mannerabove described, the normal height of the inner I walls 5 of the rib is retained so that the strength of the between-substance of the sole is not impaired while the outer wall of the rib provides an adequate striking shoulder for the sewing needle because of the angular presentation of the shoe to the sewing needle. r A V In the use of this sole for the manufacture of turn shoes, and especially turn shoes -55 with molded counters, the described struc v ture of'the sewing ribwill be found par With the method of manufacturing turn shoes. illustrated in Fig. 20f the drawing and known asthe ticularly advantageous.

. Thissell method, amolded counter 14 is attached in upright position-on the heel end 15 of the sole after theupper 16 has been secured'to the sole and beforeturning the shoe right side out. The counters invariably extend a considerable distance forwardly of Moreover, by

ofthe sewing rib under sho upper wallof the the heel breastline of the shoeand into the shank. When such a counter is'appliedto 'a turn sole in which the sewing rib 4' terminates abruptly atthe heel breastline, its end portion is necessarily seated on the shoulder which inclines the counter and throws 1t. out of its correctrelative posit on in the.

shoe'avith aresulting distortionof the shoe n ni b ua ium in the use of a sale in whichthe sewing "r'ib' evenly seated on th sole and the shoe upper 1 attached to thesoleso that it will accurately conform to the molded-lines ofthe counter.

Although the invention has been illus-' trated and described as embodied in an outsole of the type used in the manufacture of turn shoes, it should be .understood that the invention is-not limited in the scope of its application to this particular article and that the wordsole as used in the claims'is 1 entitled, when nototherwise limited, to cover insoles as wellas outsoles.

Having thus described my invention, what 7 If claim as new and desire to secure byLet te rs Patent of the United States is: 1. As an article of manufacture, a

sole for shoes provided with a marginally! extending rib to receive the inner wall' of said, rib, those portions of stitchesflforthe attachment of a'shoe upper, and a depressionadjacent to H 1.

the sole being deeper than the remaining portions. v a 2. As'an article of manufacture, a sole for shoes provided with a marginally extending rib to receive stitches for the attachment of a shoe upper and having the base of the said rib at its inner Side in the region of the heel breast line in a lower plane than at other portions ofthe sole.

3. As an article of manufacture, a sole .for shoes provided with a'marginallyjextending sewing rib to receive stitches for the attachment of a shoe upper, said sewing rib decreasing inheight rearwardly at or near the heel breast line of the sole and having I depressions adjacent to the inner :wall of the sewing rib to maintain a uniformheight for the inner wall of the said rib.

4;, As an article of manufacture, a sole for shoes provided with a marginally extending 1 rib to receive stitches for theJattachment of a breast line, said sewing ribdecreasingln 5. As an article ofmanufacture, a sole for and having depressions increas- Sing in depth'rearwardly along the inner sewing rib at or'near the heel a shoes provided With arina-rginally extending rib to receive stitchesfor the attachment of a shoe upper "and having the innerwall of the said rib locally of the heel breast line uniforinljr increased in depth rearWardlyQ 6. As an article of maniifacture, a sole for shoes provided with a marginally extending rib to receive stitches for the attachment of a shoe 'upper and having the inner Wall of the said rib locally of the heel breast line uniformly increased in depth rearwardly therefrom and'th height of said rib above the uppersurfa ce of the sole decreased'corresponding to the increased depth of the inner Wall. i j

7. As an article of manufacture, a molded vulcanized sole provided With a marginally extending rib to receive stitches 'for th'e attachment of as'lioe upper, the inner Wall Of the'ri'b in the region of the heel breast line extending to a lower level than does the inner Wall of the rib throughout the remainder of its extent. I V In testimony whereof I name to this specification.

HENRY'BENJAMIN GORMAN.

have signed 11] y

Images