US1301084A - Welt-shoe and method of making same. - Google Patents

Description

APPLICATION FILED NOV, 10. 1917.

Pafented Apr. 15,1919.

2 SHEETS-SHEET I.

' Fig.3;

G. H. BLACK.

WELT SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME.

APPLICATION FILED NOV, 10. 1917.

1,301,084; I PatentedApr. 15,1919.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

w /xaz UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

GEORGE H.- BLACK, ROCHESTER, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR, BY MESNE ASS IGNMENTS, TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORA- TION on NEW JERSEY.

'WELT-SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME.

Specification of Letters Patent. P t t 15, 1919 Application filed November 10, 1917. Serial No. 201;372.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, GEORGE H. BLACK, acitizen of the United States, residing at Rochester, in the county of Monroe and. State of New York, have invented certain Improvements in lVelt-Shoes and Methods of Making Same, of which the following description, in. connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

This invention relates to the manufacture of welt shoes and to a method and means for securing close shanks.

In the manufacture of welt shoes there are two conditions which tend to produce fullness in that portion of the shank of the the portions of the rib farther removed from its end. The two conditions work together because the extra thickness and stiffness produced by the wings of the counter render it difficult to sew this portion of the shoe as close down to the base or root of the sewing rib as it is practical to sew the portions in the forward portion of the shank.

In effortsto overcome these difiiculties and produce close shank shoes, which are desirable because of their more pleasing appearance and better fit, various inventions have been made by which the counters have been especially shaped at this portion of the shoe; lasting machines have been equipped with special mechanism for preparing the shoe for sewing at the shanks; and special machines have been devised for forcing inwardly and fa tening the shoe stock at and adjacent to the ends of the inseam afterthe shoe was welted, so as to narrow the shank.

An object of this invention is to provide a method of obtaining-close shanks by the practice of Which the shoe upper materials may be drawn snugly about the last in the shank during the attachment of the shoe upper materials to the insole and maintained in said position. Another object of the invention is to provide an improved insole having characteristics which facilitate the practice of tllisIIlGtllOCl and contribute to the production of close shanks.

In one of its aspects the method of this invention consists in producing an insole with a sewing rib to provide an anchorage for inseam stitches in attaching a shoe upper to the insole providing additional anchorage for the sewing rib at the rear part of the shank relatively to other portions of the sewing rib, and then sewing theshoe upper materials to the insole'and utilizing said anchored portion of the rib. at the rear part of the shank to pull the upper materials snugly about the last and against the rib. In another of its aspects the invention consists in bending the rear end portion of the sewing rib inwardly away from the adjacent edge of the insole and fastening said portion in its inwardly bent position to hold it for the operation of sewing the upper materials to the rib while it occupies said inwardly bent position. By the method'of this invention the portions of material in the shank which are rendered bulky by the presence of the wings of the heel stiffener are carried farther inwardly from the edge of the insole during the sewing operation than are the portions of upper material in the forward part of the shank, and by reason of the additional anchorage provided for the inseam stitches at the rear part of the hank the upper materials are secured in said inward position by the inseam. Thebending of the sewing rib inwardly not only locates it and the inseam of which it forms a part farther from the inward edge of the insole and holds the end of the rib from being pulled outwardly, but also facilitates the sewing of the inseam close to the root or base of the rib. This reduces or eliminates the chance for the upper materials to be forced outwardly, by the outward tipping of the rib, as for example under the pressure applied to the shoein the heel attaching operation.

An important feature of this invention consists in a welt shoe insole having a sewing rib the rear end portion of which is formed and arranged to provide additional anchor age for the inseam stitches relatively to other portions of the sewing rib. Another which is bent inwardly away from the adj a-' cent edge of the insole and fastened in wardly bent position. A machine which may be successfully used in the practice of;

the present invention is shown and described in a co-pending application Serial No.

201,371, filed by me on even date herewith. Other features of the invention includ ng certain details of construction will appear from the following description and W111 then be pointed out in theclaims.

Figure 1 of the drawings shows an insole having a sewing rib of a usual construct on.

Fig. 2, partly in transverse section, 1llus trates the step of bending the rear end portion of the sewing rib inwardlyaway from the adjacent edge of the insole.

Fig. 3 is a similar view showlng the steps of setting the sewing rib in its inwardly bent position by pressure exerted substantially perpendicular to the face of the msole, and by a blow applied in a similar d1rect1on,and further illustrates the step of fastening the sewing rib in its inwardly bent'and set position. 7

Fig. 4. is a perspective view of an insole made in accordance with this invention.

Fig. 5 slhowsa welted shoe made by the practiceof the present method and'the use of the insole shown in Fig. 4.

The insole chosen for illustration is of the type known as an Economy insole comprising a leather body 2 relnforced by canvas 4: extending across the body of the insole and upwardly against the inner side of the leather-stock portion of the sewing rib 5.

e The first step in improving thisinsole in accordance with the present method is to engage the rear end portion of the. rib and bend it inwardly away from the adjacent edge of the insole and downwardly toward the body portion of the insole. This step is illustrated in Fig. 2 as effected by thrusting or wedging the insole laterally between a work table 8 and a resilient bending device 10. The inwardly and downwardly directed pressure effected in this manner while the inner face of the rib is unsupported tends to displace the rib inwardly and bend the constituent parts of the rib to a position more remote from the edge of the insole than that occupied by it in Fig. 1 and farther inwardly than the portions of the rib in the forward part of theshank of the insole. The effect of this is to give more room between the edge of the insole'and the outer face of the sewing rib within which to dispose'the upper material rendered, bulky in the rear portion of the shank by the presence of as wing- 12 (Fig. '5') of atti e stiffener.

The position of therearportion .ofthe sew ing rib secured bythe'above describedaction' ber 14; which may be thenoz zle of the tacking machine. The beating'is shown as effected by a blow from a hammer 16 shown as a tack driver operating from the nozzle.

The inwardly bent position of the end portion of the rib is made secure'bythe insertion of a tack 15 through said inwardly bent rib and into the body of the insole, the tack being inserted by the hammer 16 and preferably clenching its point on the work supporting table 8 to avoid a point projecting from the foot-engaging face of the insole. Some of the advantages of this invention may be obtained by treating only one of the end portions of the sewing rib of'an insole, but preferably both end portions aresimilarly treated as illustrated in Fig. 4.

When the insole thus produced and illus trated in Fig. 4. is incorporated in a shoe and the upper materials including the welt fastened to the rib by the inseam the positionof the end portion of the rib with relation to theedge of the insole gives increased-space 7 within which to dispose the relatively bulky upper materials overlasted and fastened at this portion of the'shoe, as compared with the less bulky upper materials in-the forward portion of the shank, see Fig. 5, and produces what is termed a close shank, that is, a shank presenting no bulge at its rear part caused by the extra thickness of the upper materials in that part of the shoe. f

I The inwardly forced and bent-over portion of the sewing rib at the rear end of the shank presents an undercut inner wall with which the channel guide of the inseam sewing machine engages. This formation has the effect of guiding the shoe bottom and the bottom face of the channel guide into close proximity as the end portions ofthe inseam are being sewed so that the inseaming machine is compelled to sew low or close to the root of the rib at the ends of the inseam. This is in marked contrast with the usual in sole condition wherein the sewing rib is more likely than not to be bent outward and present the most diflicult condition for sewing low.. By inserting a fastening in cooperative relation with the sewing rib at its rear end the sewing rib is held against outof the shoe during the heeling operation,

which pressure tendsto force the sides of the shoe outwardly, particularly if the sewing rib is inclined outwardly, is entirely avoided. fThe tack'is not regarded as absolutely essential but experience has indicated that it contributes to the benefits derived from this invention. Obviously other fastenings than tacks might be substituted. The tack 15 is preferably located immediately back of the point where the last inseam stitch shouldbe taken and as close as practicable to that point. By reason'of this location, the tack is not liable to be struck by the sewing needle, thereby disturbing-thetack or damaging the needle or the shoe and it serves its rib holding function with maximum e1? ficiency when so located. Furthermore, tacks so located-constitute gages or guides for indicating to the sewing machine operative the points at which to begin and end the inseam, these points being advantageously located at predetermined and uniform distances from the rear end of the shoe. It is considered good shoemaking practice to extend the inseam a uniform short distance back of the heel breast line or location and this invention contributes to the successful] carrying out of that practice.

Having explained the nature of this inventionand described how it may be practised, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States 1. That improvement in methods of obtainin g close shanks in welt shoes which consists in forcing the rear part of the sewing rib of the insole inwardly relatively to the forward part of the sewing rib and away from the edge of the insole and sewing the upper to said rib while maintaining the rib in that position.

2. That improvement in methods of obtaining close shanks in welt shoes which consists in bending the rear portion of the sewing rib of the insole in the shank inwardly relatively to the forward part of the sewing rib, securing the rear portion only of the rib in such inwardly bent position, and then welt-ing the shoe.

3. That improvement in methods of obtaining close shanks in welt shoes which consists in bending the rear portion of the sewing rib of the insole inwardly away from the edge of the insole and relatively to the part of the rib in the forward portion of the shank and downwardly toward'the body of theinsole, inserting afastening to hold it in" the position-thus secured,and sewlng the upper and welt to the rib along the shank.

4. That improvement in methods of obtaining close shanks in welt shoes which consists in disposing the sewing rib along the shank portion of-the'insole at an appropriately greater-distance from the'edge of the insole in the rear part of the shank than in the forepart to allow for the additional thickness'of theupp'er materials caused by the'stiffener wings in the'rear partjof the shank, and sewing the upper materials to the sewing rib so disposed.

taining close shanks in welt shoes which consists in bending'the rear portion of the sewing rib of the insole in the shank in wardly away from the edge of the insole and relatively to the forward part of'the sewing rib and beating said rear part of the sewing rib locally to set it in overbent posi: tion.

6. That improvement in methods of ob taining close shanks in welt shoes which consists in bending therear portion of the sewing rib of the'insole inwardly away from the edge of the insole and relatively to the forward part of the sewing rib and applying positioning-fixing pressure to said overbent portion in a direction substantially perpendicular to the plane of the insole.

7 That improvement in Welt shoe insoles which consists in a sewing rib located farther inwardly at the rear part of the shank than along the forepart of the shank to provide a width of feather along the shank substantially proportional to the thickness of upper in the rear part of the shank that includes the heel stiffener wings and the thickness of the upper materials in the forepart of the shank that do not include the stiffener wings.

8. That improvement in methods of making close shank welt shoes which consists in producing an insole with a sewing rib to provide an anchorage for inseam stitches in attaching a shoe upper to the insole, providing additional anchorage for the rib at the rear part of the shank relatively to other portions of the rib, sewing a shoe upper and a welt to the insole and utilizing said anchored portion of the rib at the rear part of the shank to pull the upper and the welt snugly against the insole rib, and thereafter sewing an outsole to the welt and completing its manufacture in the usual manner.

9. That improvement in methods of making close shank welt shoes which consists in producing an insole with a sewing rib to provide an anchorage for inseam stitches in attaching a shoe upper to the inseam, applying separate means to the sewing rib at the rear part of the shank to increase v *so 5. That improvement in methods of obthe anchorage ofiered by the sewing rib at this point, and thereafter sewing the out:

sole to the welt and completing its manu-i facture V 10. A welt shoe insole having a sewing rib to which inseam stitches are, anchored in attachinga shoe-upper to the insole, said sewing, rib at the rear part of the shank provide additional anchorage for inseam' stitches relatively to other portions of the sewing rib. V V

. 12. A welt shoe insole having a marginal sewing rib folded inwardly at its rear end,

relatively to other portions of the sewing rib, and a fastening holding the sewing rib in said folded position for it to resist outwardly directedstrain. I

A welt shoe insole having a sewing rib upstarntling around the forepart of the shoe and along the forepart of the shank, said rib being bent inwardly away from the adjacent edge of the insole and downwardly toward the body of the insole in the rear part of the shank. i

14. A welt sh insole having a sewing rib freely upstanding around the forepart Of h nsole n m ans r ho i g th ea endtportionof said rib in the shankv against outwardlyv directed strain.-

15. A iweltvshoe insole havinga sewing rib formed into position tending to locate theinse'am farther inwardly from the edge of theinsolein the rear part ofthe shank than in the forepart of the shank.

16. Areinforced welt shoe insole having a sewing rib including an upturned portion of the insole bodyand a portion of the reinforcing material, said rib beingrfolded inwardly and secured by a fastening atits' inforcing material, said rib being secured at its rear end against bending or being pulled outwardly. Y r r 18; That improvement in methods of 0b-' taining close shanks in welt shoes which consists in forming the insole with a sewing rib upstanding around the forepart and the forward portion of the shank of the shoe and in forming the rib to present an undercut inner wall at the rear end of theshank, and in engaging the channel guide of the inseam sewing machine with said undercut inner wall to sew the upper close to the root of the rib atthe rear end of the shank while inseaming the shoe.

In testimony name to thisspecification.

Gnonen H. BLACK.

Copies of this patent n a 'yi he min {qr five cents each, by addressing the Gomh11ssioner of Patents,

H pw z fi n V V whereof I have signed my

Images