US1447229A - Device for cutting out women's garments - Google Patents

Description

Mar. 6, 1923. 1,447,229

PPPPPPPP TE Filed May 26, 1921 Mar. 6, 1923.

P. VIOLANTE DEVICE FOR CUTTING OUT WOMEN'S GARMENTS Filed May 26, 1921 4 sheets-sheet 2 Mar. 6, 1923.

P. VIOLANTE DEVI-CE FOR CUTTING OUT WOMEN'S GRMENTS Filed May 26, 1921 4 sheets-sheet 3 Mar. 6, 1923.'

P. V IOLANTE DEvIc FOR cU'TTING OUT WOMEN'S GARMENTS 4 sheets-sheet 4 Filed May 26, l92l Patented Mar. 6, 1923.

man -m es y 'Application filed Meye s,

To all whom it may cmwern:

Be 1t known that I, 'PAS UALE-VIOLANTE,

a subject of the King of Italy, and residngat Galleria Vittoria, Naples, Italy ,have invented certain new and useful Improve-- ments in'Devlces for Cuttmg Out VVomeIfs Garments, of Which the following is' a' speci fication. a

The invention'relates to a device adapted to be drawn on ga'rment.

Up to" now the operations for eutting out' women@ garments required a series* of 'Calculations on the -measures taken on* the pel son-'and 'the' patterns had first of'all 'to jbe. cut out'onpap'er and'th'en to be copied 'on the cloth, Which Was conducive to a' great loss of time and required many case the Work of a person experienced m the art.

* It has already been proposedto construct apparatus intended to aVoid the .drawbacks of the known' methods for cutting out Women s garments, but these apparatus had to be' applied to the body oft'he person Whose measu res had to be taken and a model-of the garment had to'be shaped onthe person; the

results obtained however have not been satis-- factor-y.

based on a quite differentprinciple. 'Accordmg to the .1nvent1on, measures are'taken on the person by handjas heretofore and these measures of Which only a *quite limited number are required With this method, are

used' to' adjust-'the device Which Will'then show the lines thatmustbe followed for out ting out the component parte of. the garment.

The device accordingto. the invention comprises a series of straight and'of curved arms or leverswhich are 'slidabl'e' in a longitudinal direction respecting a central or body part on' Which they are; mounted, this* sliding motion being imparted to' them .preferably by means'of 'gears carried by the said-:central or. body part. The slidable arms ..or levers carry suitably shaped templates intendedto define the "lines to be folloWedfor the.. cutting operations. When the gears are turned, the slidable arms or' 'levers in engagement theretvith are brought to slide forward or backward'on the central or .bodypart so that plates; a r v l is aschematicflview ?of the control The devce according to theinventlon is, r

mreNTomCE. J V

. rAsQUA VIOL NT or ALE IA vrrronr-g NALESIALY i DE ICE EDE comme 'our WOME sG-ARM NS the lines defined by the 'templates ill "be" shaped in "accor'dance With the extent .to

Which the'gears' have been rotated As the rotary] movements of the gears are j made dep'endent on the measures taken on' the perfr son, it is evident that the lines set up by the: x i

Various templates WillfVary-'n' accordance.

With these measures and they may. thus be used for tracing out the' component parts of' a Well-fitting garment'on 'the cloth.

' 'n'o'rde r that the inventionmay be readily y understo'o'd5 the' same Will be described With' reference to the' 'accompanying drawings Which shows adevlce that .may be used for cutting 'skrts', 'jackets 'and otherliketgar'- ments. In these draWings- W Fi'g. *1' isi an 'upper plan VieW- of 'the 2 de Vice, Q V v Fig; -Qisfla part rear view 'showing the upper' arms or levers With the respective. gears, but without the templates,: 4

, 'Fig.'3 is a similar vieWof-the lower. arms also: Without* the V templates r and With? their y gears,'While-' i A Fig 4' shows an: example of :the lines Which may be'. defined cutting .operationsf ,z Fig; *5 show a guiderpece for the'rack arms to' ho'ld them in mesh' With .the nions.: mg. 6 shows on a 'larger Scale the connec'- by the'ap-paratus for tion'between' 'some of the arms 'andthe tem- I;

Fig. 7

mech'anism;

The device I shown in the drawing 3 comprises a' plurality of' arrhshrlevers indi? v cated With the letters from a toh'and l to "q,z=which a re 'all mounted on' a central body member? A" and are slidable thereon in 'a :longitu'din-aldrection. Some of these'arms or levers are 'stralght and Wlll therefore* r :quand 'these racks engage :With pinionszcar- 'ried by the bodyimember A the 'rack arms being arranged in slotted: guides (Figure. 5) secured 'to the central or'body member A,

so as to be held in mesh-With their respecav gears With vhich they 'are held in en.-

ga'gement by means of the straps' w and'the 'springs mx' Of- Course, instead *of rack ana 'pinioin gears' other: 'suitable means may be employed to impart a slidin'g' motion' to the arms or levers.

The pinions-are rotatechforexample, by means of a key intended to be applied to the shaft B of the driving pinion F of a train of gears for the upper set of arms or levers and successively to the sha'iit C of the driving, pinion G ot the trains et gears tor the lower set of arms or lerers, asis indicated in figure 7, or arrangements may be made to rotate both trains of gears simultaneously to cause the arms or levers to .move respecting thecentral oi' body' part.

The movements of the upper and lower setf' gears may be controlled, 'for example, by meansof two ndicating derices D, E, marked with .numbers and connected, for example, with wheels H 1 on the shatts'of the driving-pinions, these indicating *ClGVCBS showing in the' constructional form here illustrated one the measures' et the chest and" the other those of the waist to which the positions of thearms or' le-Vers respectively correspond. v

A ,cover platc K i provided at the base of'the device and has the shaft B rotatably mounted on it.

Each of the arms carries one or more templates 3,, e s and so on, which in some cases' are interconnected by spiralsprings as show-n, and these templates define each a part of one of the lines to be followed for the cutting operations, the. templates being suitablyshaped forrthis purpose and they are interchangeable so as to adapt'themto the Various fashions or ways in which the garments are to be cut. In order to be able to adjust the device, these templates are slidably arranged on the arms or levers, a suitable interconnection being ohtained, for example; by-a slot as shown in t, and the templates may' be Secured in their adjusted position by the aid of pressure screws such as .shown in Figure 6 'orthe like.

In order that the device should be 'able to take care of. any de formities or irregrb larities of the body, the armsn, 0 are not provided with the usual straight slots t, butthese arms are enlarged towards their outer end and a curved slot is formed there in" which. allows the respective templates being displaced in accordance with these deformities. For the same purpose, ,the arms-.c and (l *are provided with cross-shaped slots (Figure 6) which allow the templates being displaced in cross-wise directions.

The lines to be followed for cutting out a garment are defined by combinations of theoutlnes of two or more templates, while the brief intervening. spaces between the templates may easily be filled in by hand, as it will be readily understood. For each number shown by .the indicating device a difi'erent series of lines will be obtained and 'all the component parts eta. garment may thus be suitably outlined by the device and be reproduced on the cloth.

arms or levers will have 'been displaced -to such an eXtent that the templates deine the ,lines to be tollowed for cutting out a garment corresponding withzthe two measures taken on the person.

For example, the templates s e s s s 8,, define thefull-line. I in Fig. which corresponds to the. front, part or' the garment to* be out, the: templates 8 s s s;-

deine the full line II which correspondsto the rear part, the templates 8 8 together' with the templates e s -defi-ne thedotted line III for the part, above thesleeve, and so on. In the constructional form shown a part ot' theline for a dcolletageis always indicated by the recessed pieces u, 0). secured on the central part.

It is evident that when the keys are op-. erated so as to bring'new numbers in View on the indicating devices, allthe templates will be displaced and thus all, the lines will be altered to correspond-now with the new breast andwaistmeasures The relation between the Various :transmissions and between the successive movements of the arms or levers and of the templates: will he; calculated so as tocorrespondflto the measure ments of a person of regular build, and for such a person the. operationof the key is suilicient to bringall' the ten'iplates-in the required position for definng a well-,fitting garment, while anydeformities are taken care or" in the Way above described. The shape of'the templates, the size of the gears, the cu-iwature :of the curved armsand all the other particulars are further cal'culated'in accordance With the. rules of fash on; it is possible to out with the aid 'of'the same apparatus garments of different kind, forinstance both long jackets and blouses. x For this latter purpose, the lower-templatesare all ointed at .a and'the lineawhich connects these joints e represents the waist' lneIV (Fig. 45) of' the garment, so thatuby prolonging the lines to a-larger or smaller. eX- tent below this waist line, jacketszor blou-ses of dilerent length 'be outlined.

It' will be eVident t-hat the device. is here llustrated only by way ofexample and that But Varous modifications may be *made therein y vention. For example, the number of the arms and templates may be ncreased or diminished according to requrements, 01- the apparatus may require more than tWo measures to be taken on the person, and SO on.

XVhat I claim is:

Apparatus for cutting Won1en s garments comprising a central or body member, a plurality of arms arranged on the body member, these, arms being some straight and some curved and all of rack formation on one side, trans of gears arranged to be operated from a shaft or shafts extending through the body member, and in engagement With the racks, ndicating devces controlled ,from the said shaft or shafts, inter 7 changeable templates on the arms or levers to define the lines to be followed for the cutting operatons When the arms or levers 'are dsplaced respectively along straight or curved lines through the operation of the gears. v In testmony Whereof I have signed at Naples this 27th day of April., in the'pres

Images