US1434686A

US1434686A - Apparatus for reenforcing buttonholes

Info

Publication number: US1434686A
Application number: US526231A
Authority: US
Inventors: Duesler Walter
Original assignee: DIANA KNITTING Co
Current assignee: DIANA KNITTING Co
Priority date: 1921-12-31
Filing date: 1921-12-31
Publication date: 1922-11-07
Anticipated expiration: 1939-11-07

Description

r W. DUESLER.

APPARATUS FOR REENFORCING BUTTONHOLES.

APPLICATION FILED DEC. 31, I92]- w N d m w B1 IN V EN TOR HJATTORNEY Patented Nov. 7, 1922.

UNETE STATES PATENT OFFICE.

"WALTER DUESLER, OF JOHNSTOWN, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR TO DIANA KNITTING COMPANY, OF JOHNSTOWN, NEW YORK, A CORPORATION OF NEW YORK,

APPARATUS FOR REENFORCING BUTTONHOLES.

Application filed December 31, 1921. Serial No. 526,231.

['0 (LE whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, \VALrnRDUEsLER, a citizen of the United States, residing at Johnstown, in the county of Fulton and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Apparatus for Reenfor-cing Buttonholes; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make. and use the same.

My invention consists in the novel features hereinafter described, reference being had to the accompanying drawing which shows one embodiment of my invention, selected by me for purposes of illustration, and the said invention is fully disclosed in the following description and claims.

The object of my present invention is to ro\'ide means for forming and reinforcing button holes in cloth, leather, or in any other suitable material in which the button hole may be stitched, and the apparatus herein described is especially adapted for carrying into effect my improved process for forming and reenforcing button holes, set forth in United States Letters Patent No. 1,416,801, granted May 23rd, 1922.

' According to my said invention disclosed in my said application above referred to, I provide a reenforcing stay comprising a narrow strip of cloth, tape, or other material, of one or more thicknesses and substantially double the width of the bights of the rows ofstitches surroundingthe button hole, which is applied to one face of the base material in which the button hole is to be formed, the incision for the button hole being formed either before or after stitching, through the base material and centrally and longitudinally of the reenforcing stay, the portions of the stay at opposite sides of the incision being united to the base fabric by a row of stitches entirely surrounding the button hole aperture, and enclosing the marginal portions of the base fabric and the portions of the stay on opposite sides of the incision, the stitching also preferably uniting integral portions of the stay at opposite ends of the incision to the base material, after which the end portions of the stay beyond the rows of stitches are cut off, leaving the button hole thoroughly reinforced and the stay entirely enclosed and concealed by the rows of stitchmg.

In carrying out my present invention I employ the essential elements of the well known button hole sewing machine comprising a button hole forming knife, blade or cutting mechanism, button hole stitch producing means and feed mechanism for formm the button hole, that is to say, the usual stitch forming and feeding mechanisms for producing button holes. These means may be of any usual or desired character, and as my invention does not involve any specific change in the ordinary button hole stitch producing means, or feeding mechanism, the specific mechanism for producing the button hole stitches to form the button hole will not be herein illustrated or described in detail. In combination with the button hole stitch producing means, and feeding mechanism, and preferably also in combination with the button hole serving knife, blade or cutter, I employ means for guiding and positioning a flat narrow reenforcing stay, in the form of a tape or strip of one or more thicknesses, and substantially twice the width of the row of button hole stitches on opposite sides of the button hole aperture, so as to guide and maintain the said reenforcing stay at all times in a position longitudinally and centrally of the button hole aperture to be formed, so that as the button hole is formed,

the portions of the stay on opposite sides of the center thereof, and on opposite sides of the button hole aperture, formed or to be formed, will be entirely enclosed within the button hole stitches bordering the button hole aperture, the stay being preferably left integral at each end of the button hole aperture, and the button hole aperture itself may be formed by the operation of a knife or cutting mechanism, automatically operated by and being a part of the button hole machine, as is usually the case, and being brought into operation either before or after the stitching of the button hole, or the button hole aperture may be made by other means if desired after the removal of the base material from the machine, if the button hole machine is not provided with an automatically operated knife or cutter.

In the accompanying drawing, I have t-Jdied therein.

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the work supportand feeding plates of the machine, showw my invention applied thereto.

F 3 is a front elevation of the parts shown in Fig. 2.

ig. a is a sectional view on line a e of 5 is a similar view to Fig. 2 showing a modification of the means for supporting and guiding the tape in front of the needle.

Fig. 6 is a front elevation of the parts shown in Fig. 5.

Fig. 7 is a detail view illustrating a piece of base fabric having a button hole formed therein, in accordance with niiy invention, bet'ore clipping the reentorcing tape or strip.

Fig. 8 is a similar view after the clipping of the tape or strip, and illustrating the completed button hole.

Referring to the drawings, I have illustrated so mu h of the well known Singer button hole machine as is necessary for an understanding of my invention, the machine being illustrated herein with my invention applied thereto. 1 represents the base or main frame of the machine on which is set means for supporting and feeding the work, and sti ch forming mechanism adapted to produce stitching, extending entirely around the button hole, with barring stitches at each end the button hole, all of which may be of the usual or any preferred construction. In the present instance the frame 1 is provided with a transversely movable clamp carrier slide, indicated at 2, mounted in suitable guideways in the frame, and capable of a lateral sliding movement with respect to the base 1. Upon the clamp carrier slide 2 and disposed centrally thereol is a longitudinally movable clamp carrier 3 supported in a dovetail recess in the upper face of the clamp carrier slide, so that the clamp carrier itself may be moved l0ngitudinally to an extent slightly greater than the length of the button hole to be formed. The clamp carrier 3 is provided with a lon 'itudinal slot 4. in which is located the needle plate which may be, and in this instan'e is. shown-as secured to the clamp carrier slide 2 by screws 66, the slot 4 in the lamp carrier being of considerably greater length than the needle plate, so as to 1 ssess permit of the necessary longitudinal moveme" t of the ciamp tarrier. The needle plate provided with a transverse slot 1' for the needle of length at least twice the length or the button hole stitches, so as to permit oi the tormation of two parallel rows of such stitches on opposite sides of t re button hole, and the needle plate is also preferably provided; with a longitudinal slot 8, extending from the central portion of the slot tor the purpose of permitting the passage therethrough ot' the button hole forming knife or cutter. The longitudinally movable carrier is provided with a work supporting plate 9 which lies above the clamp carrier slide 2 and is secured to the clamp carrier 3 by means of screws 10 and the plate Sis provided with alarge slot indicated at through which the work may be brought into contact with the needle plate. The clamp carrier is also provided with a work clamp, indicated at 12, which is pivotally supported at 13 and held down upon the work by means of a suitable spring 14:, the work clamp being provided with an operating arm 15 by means of: which it may be raised and lowered. 16 represents the needle head carrying the needle bar 17 and needle 18, and also carrying the button hole forming knife or cutter 19, the needle 18 and knife 19 being supported in operative relationiwith respect to the slots 7 and 8 respectively in the needle plate 5. All of these parts are of the well known construction employed in the Singer button hole ma chine, and their specific construction and operation form no part of my present invention. It is to be understood that the machine is provided with button hole stitch forming mechanism and suitable mechanism for operating the button hole forming knife or cutter. in this machine the needle bar is provided with suitable means for imparting to it vertical reciprocating movements for the production of the button hole stitches and suitable mechanism is provided for moving the clamp carrier 3 with its work clamp longitudinally with respect to the needle plate from one end of the button hole to the other, and the clamp carrier slide is also provided with mechanism for shifting it transversely of the machine to produce a row oi button hole stitches, first on one side of the button hole and then on the other, in a well known way. As it is not neIesSary for the purpose of this invention to partitularly illustrate and describe these mechanism. for imparting movement to the work supporting devices and to the needle bar and cutter, I have not particularly illustrated' and will not describe the same in detail. In Fig. 2 I have shown the clamp carrier slide provided with a shifting lever, indicated at 20. forming part of the feed mechanism. in the Singer machine, and the clamp carrier 3 is shown connected to a link 21. forming part of the longitudinal fee ling mechanism therefor.

In carrying out my orosent invention, ll provide means for su porting, guiding, and maintaining a narrow strip or tape of substantially double the width of a single row of button hole stitches longitudinally of the needle plate and centrally disposed with respect to the needle, the button hole sinite the slots in the needle plate cooperating therewith. To this end l'pi ferably provide, adjacent to the rear e 1 of the plate 9 a tape holding and positioning guide, indicated at 22, which cooperates with tape holding and positioning guide adjacent to the forward end of this plate, as hereinafter more fully explained. As before stated, the rcenforcin tape which I employ may be used in a single thicl; ess or in a plurality of thicknesses. Preferably, I. employ a tape, indicated at 23, which double the winth desired, and provide means for folding it longitudinally and centrally upon itself. I prefer, therefore, in making the holdiii w positioning- 'de to maize it in the of tape fol 1g guide. the rear portion irdicated at 24: being in the form of. a flattened tube of the full width of the tape, which tube is gradually folded upon itself 'tOi the forwaid end of ti e holding and positioning; .q'uide so tl'zat the tape will be folded lo]i tudinally and centrally upon itself. The inne face of the list ued tubular guide is prefera y slotted longitudinally, as indicated at 25 in t, to decrease friction in the tube and facilitate the folding ac ion of. the guide. This guide is provided with an attaching bracket, indicated at 26, which is secured to the work supporting plate 9 3y means screws 27. The friction exerted by the folding guide on the tape enables .i

tto

hold one end of the tape very firmly, while permitting the tape to no drawn forward by hand whenever desired, between the formation of successive button holes. shown in Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 4., tie forward end of the clamp carrier 3 is provided with a pc guiding and positionin notch or recess 23 in line with and dispo: d centrally with respect to the longitudinal axis of the needle plate 5, or in other words, in line with the central portions of the slots 7 and 8 of the needle plate. The top plate or work supporting plate 9 is preferably provided with an inclined slot 29 e ncinp' laterally with respect to and connnunicatir with the notch or recess 28, so {as to facilitate the insertion of the tape from above down through the inclined slot 29 and into the guiding and positioning recess E28, wi houtthe neces ity of threading the tape through said recess. The recess 28 is of such width as to the tape snugly and hold the forward end fricticnally when it is forcibly pulled down into the barring stitches.

In the form the recess, as it is shown in Fig. 1, thus holding the forward end of the tape while the rear end is firmly held frictionally and positioned by the guide 22 before described.

In the operation of the machine, assuming that the tape is held and positioned in the machine at the front and at the rear of the plate 9, and in line centrally with respect to the needle plate 5, the base material in which the button hole is to be formed, which may be a piece of fabric or the edge of a garment, is placed in contact with the tape and is clamped down by the work clamp 12 in the usual manner, thus holding it in contact with the tape, so that the tape will extend equally on opposite sides of a line coincident with the button hole aperture to be made. A row of button hole stitches is then made along one side of the proposed button hole, which will extend substantially from the centre of the tape to one exterior edge thereof, so as to enclose a marginal portion of the base raterial and one half of the tape or strip. ii second row of button hole stitches is made on the opposite side of the proposed button hole in the same manner and preferably certain barring stitches will be madeat each end of the button hole in a well known way, which also pass through the strip or stay. The incision is then made in the stay and base material centrally of the two rows of stitches, by depressing the knife or cutter 19, if the machine is provided with such a cutting mechanism, thus forming a button hole having its edges reinforced throughout by the concealed portions of the stay, the stay itself being left integral at each end of the button hole aperture, at which points it will be firmly united to the base material at the op posite ends of thebutton hole aperture by The stay is then severed adjacent to each end of the button hole aperture close to the barring stitches, but without severing any of the same.

In Fig. 7 I have shown an underside view of the button hole formed according to my invention, in which 23 represents the tape, 30 represents the base material or fabric, in which the button hole is to be formed, 3'l31 represent two rows of button hole stitches, and 32 represents the barring stitches, at the opposite ends of the rows 3l-31. Fig. 8 represents a completed button hole after the in cision is made, as indicated at 33, and the ends of the tape 23 have been cut of, all portions of the tape being entirely concealed by the stitching.

After the completion of one button hole, the tape is severed from the main body of tape passing through the guide 22 and the end of the main body is drawn forward a distance sufficient to provide the necessary amount for the next button hole, the forward end being held in the guiding and positioning recess 28, when the operation is repeated.

lOG

it will understood that if the button hole sewing machine with which my invention is employed is not provided with a cutting mechanism, the button hole may be formed in the manner indicated in 7, and the incision 33 may be made afterwards, or before the stitching, may be preferred, and in any desired manner.

In 5 and 6 l have illustrated a slight modification, in which the forward end of th needle plate herein indicated at 5 is proi neans for holding and positionthe forward end of the r enforcing tape or sta in the form of machine illustrate l in the figure, the needle plate is integral with the clamp carrier slide 2; but this is not essential, as the needle plate may be separately formed and secured to the clamp carrier slide if preferred.

in this modification, ll form in tne forward portion of the needle plate, and in the slide 2, beneath, a transversely disposed guiding and positioning slot 3 1, the central gular shoulders, indicated at 36, are formed at the junction of the slot and recess which prevent the escape of the tape from the slot when once inserted and assist in frictionally holding the forward end of the tape. In order to facilitate the insrtion of the tape in the recess 35 and slot 3%, the work supporting plate 9 is provided with an in clined slot 29, leading to a slot 37, extending entirely through the front portion of the clamp carrier 3, so that the operator may draw the forward end of the tape and pass it lown through the slots and 37, so as to pass it through the tapering slot 35, 35" enabling him to pull it quickly into posi ion in the transverse positioning and holding slot in the needle plate and clamp carrier slide 2 where it will be frictionally held. and retained. The other end of the tape will be held as hereinbefore described with reference to the other figures, in the rear positioning and holdin guide 22, as indicated in in the form of my inyention illustrated in Figures 5 and 6 the positioning slot 34rin, the needle plate serves to hold the for ward end of the tape so as to align it with the needle plate while the work is being placed upon the tape and clamped by the work clamp 12. After the machine is started the clamp, clamp carrier and Work supbllllS porting plate together with the material ano the portion of the stay or tape beneath .ie same move forward. The portion of the apo between the part beneath the clamp carrier, and slot (which is now of no use as the material and tape are now held together by the work clamp), will become loose and buckle, but will be drawn taut again when the clamp and carrier return to their original position, so that the slight relaxation or buckling of this portion of the tape which is not beneath the work clamp and does not become a part of the button hole is unimportant and does not interfere with the p operation of the machine.

be understood that my invention n iybe readily applied to any other type of button hole machine, although slight modifications in the specific construction of the holding and positioning guide for the tape, forward and in rear of, and centrally in a gnmentwith the button hole, may be required to adapt the invention to the diilerent types of button hole machines. In each case the operation of the mechanism will be s tantially identical with that herein desciioed in that a tape, and preferably a tape folded lengthwise and centrally upon itself will be held in front of and in rear of the button hole, and centrally with respect thereto during the formation of the button hole so as to secure the reinforcement of the button hole by means of the lateral portions of the tape which are entirely concealed within the opposite rows of button hole stitches, integral portions of the tape at each end of the button hole being preferably united. to the base fabric either by continuing the button hole stitches beyond the button hole aperture, or by means of the usual barring stitches.

have terine l the stitches on opposite sides of the button hole, which are formed by the usual button hole stitching mechanism button hole stitches, and I desire it to be understood that the invention is not limited to any particular kind of machine for making; any particular kind of button hole stitches. The button hole stitches herein referred to are to be understood as including any kind of stitches for forming a button hole and enclosing portions of the marginal edges of the base fabric and portions of the tape on opposite sides of the button hole aperture and may be what are referred to in the trade whip stitches, purl stitches. covering stitches or any other form of button hole stitches.

l i hat l claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is 1,. In a sewing machine. the combination with means for producing button hole stitches, comprising stitch forming and feeding mechanism, of means for supporting a narrow tape of a width substantially double the length of the button hole stitches, in a position longitudinally of the button hole, and with the central portion of said tape in alignment with the button hole aperture to be formed.

2. In a button hole sewing machine, the combination with means for producing button hole stitches on opposite sides of the button hole, comprising stitch forming and feeding mechanisms, or means for holding and positioning a narrow tape of a width substantially double the length of the button hole stitches longitudinally and centrally with respect to the button hole to be formed.

3. In a button hole sewing machine, the combination with means for producing button hole stitches at opposite sides of the button hole, of tape guides located in rear of and forward of and in alignment centrally with respect to the button hole to be formed.

4. In a button hole sewing machine, the combination with means for producing button hole stitches at opposite sides of the button hole, of tape guides located in rear of and forward of and in alignment centrally with respect to the button hole to be formed, and tape folding means adjacent to one side 01" said guides.

5. lln a button hole sewing machine, the combination with means for producing but ton hole stitches at opposite sides of the button hole, of tape guides located in rear of and forward of and in alignment centrally with respect to the button hole to be formed, one of said guides being provided with means for receiving a tape of greater width than that desired, and having folding means for said tape, for "folding it as it is drawn through to the guides.

6. In a button hole sewing machine, the combination with means for producing but ton hole stitches on opposite sides of the button hole, comprising stitch forming and feeding mechanisms, of a tape folding and positioning guide adjacent to one end of the button hole to be formed, comprising a flattened tubular member bent upon itself longitudinally for receiving and folding a tape, and having its delivery end in alignment longitudinally with the button hole to be formed, and a tape holding and positioning guide adjacent to the other end of the button hole to be formed, for receiving the folded tape from the first mentioned guide.

7. In a button hole sewing machine, the combination with means for producing button hole stitches on opposite sides of the button hole, comprising stitch forming and feeding mechanisms, of a tape folding and positioning guide adjacent to one end of the button hole be formed, comprising a flattened tubular member bent upon itself longitudinally for receiving and folding a tape, and having its delivery end in alignment longitudinally with the button hole to be formed, and a tape holding and positioning guide adjacent to the other end of the button hole to be formed, for receiving the folded tape from the first mentioned guide, a work supporting plate extending over said second mentioned guide and provided. with an inclined slot communicating therewith, to permit the ready insertion of the tape in the guide below.

8.- itn a button hole sewing machine, the combination with means for producing a row of button hole stitches on opposite sides of the button hole to be formed and includ ing stitch forming and feeding mechanisms, and a needle plate, means for guiding and positioning a'tape located adjacent to the rear end of the needle plate and in line with the longitudinal central portion of the same, said needle plate being provided at its forward end with a centrally located tape holding and positioning aperture.

9. In a button hole sewing machine, the combination with means for producing a row of button hole stitches on opposite sides of the button hole to be formed and including stitch forming and "feeding mechanisms, and a needle plate, means for guiding and positioning a tape located at the rear end of the needle plate, and in line with the longitudinal central portion or" the same, said needle plate being provided at its forward end with a transversely disposed tape holding and positioning slot and having an inwardly tapered notch communicatin with the central portion of said slot an extending to the end of the needle plate.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature,

WALTER DUESLER.