US1406337A - Art of making shoes - Google Patents

Description

IVI. BROCK.

ART OF MAKING SHOES.

APPLICATION FlLiD Aue. 17, 1918.

Patented Feb. 14, 1922.

3 SHEETSSHEET l.

M. BROCK.

ART .0F MAKING SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED AuG.17,1918.

1,406,337, Y 135061113611 Feb. 14, 1922.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

Fig. 8.

M. BROCK.

'ART 0F MAKING SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED AUG.I7| I9I8.

Patented Feb. 14, 1922.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

/A/I/f/Vm ww. v m A UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

MATTHIAS BROCK, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A. CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

ART OF MAKING SHOES.

raoaesr.

Specification of Letters Patent. Patented Feb. 14 1922.

Application led August 17, 1918. Serial No. 250,267.

To all whom it may concern.'

Be it known that I, MATTHIAS BROCK, a citizen of the United States, residin at Boston, in the county of Suffolk and tate of Massachusetts, have invented certain lmprovements in the Art of Making Shoes, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

.This invention relates to the art of making shoes and more specifically to the earlier stages in the process of the manufacture of a shoe during which the upper is both given the shape of the last upon which the shoe is largely manufactured and is also secu red to the insole.

Although the invention may be utilized in the manufacture of various types of shoes, which term is herein intended to include boots, slippers and other footwear, it is herein described particularly with reference to the manufacture of Goodyear welt shoes which, according to the prevailing practice, remain upon the last throughout substantially the entire bottoming operation. More specifically, in making a Goodyear welt shoe, an insole is usually tacked to the bottom of the last and then the upper, including the lining and end stiffeners, is assembled upon the last and the upper is pulled over and lasted, thereby' imparting to the shoe the shape of the last and, indeed, the shape -which the finished shoe is to have. After this shaping, the bottoming of the shoe proceeds.

While, on the one hand, the superior appearance and fit of a Goodyear welt shoe is largely due to the fact that the last remains continuously therein from the time when it is first inserted until the shoe is virtually completed, yet, on the other hand, the direct and indirect expense of providing and maintaining a full equipment of lasts is an increasingly heavy burden for the shoe manufacturer.- Hence, it is a primary object of the present invention to reduce the number of operations in the manufacture of a Shoe which are performed while it is mounted on the last and, in general, to increase the oliiciency of the process of making a shoe.

Accordingly, a very important feature of the present invention is that the upper and insole, or it may be the sole of a single soled shoe, are secured together before they are assembled upon the last. rllhus, the invention, 1n one aspect, comprises securing off the last a relatively small section of an upper tol a sole, whether it be an insole or a turn sole, thereafter mounting the upper and sole thus connected upon a last and thc-n drawing a further section of the upper to the last and securing it to the sole. Accordlng t0 the preferred method of practising the invention, a flange is produced on the heel of the upper and secured to and around one end of the insole and then these assembled parts are mounted, as a single unit, on and drawn to a last, as just described.

According to another feature of the invention, one or both of the ends of the upper are molded, shaped or formed to a shape corresponding to that of the last not only before the upper is mounted upon the last but also before the upper is secured to the insole.

In carrying out the invention in the particular manner hereinafter described in detail by way of illustration, the sides of the upper at the heel end of the shoe are molded or shaped and the heel flange formed over metal or metalfaced forms, which may be heated and then the flange is permanently and firmly secured to and around the heel of the insole, all as one continuous operation, after which the last is inserted within the upper and insole unit and then the remainder of the upper is drawn to the last and secured to the insole, for example, in a manner similar to that now carried on in A conveniently be seized by grippers such as those commonly used in hand lasting or in pulling over machines.

According to one feature of the invention, after the last has been inserted within the assembled upper and sole, a portion of the margin of the sole is accurately positioned in predetermined relation to the edge of the last and then the upper is drawn to the last and secured to the sole.

While the invention preferably comprises all of the steps herein described, yet obviously many of the advantages of the invention will be obtained even although some of1 the steps are modified, omitted or replaced by other corresponding steps now commonly performed. It will be understood,therefore, that the inventioncomprises not only the complete method herein described but also various novel and useful steps or combinations of steps in the art of making shoes also the article of manufacture, all of which, as well as the scope of the invention, will be defined in the appended claims.

The preferred mode of practicing the invention will now be described in detail in connection with the accompanying drawings, whereinig. 1 is a side elevation, partly in section, of the toe of a partially molded upper and certain portions of an apparatus which may be conveniently used in shaping it;

Fig. 3 is a similar view of the heel of the upper and of a-portion of apparatus which may be used in molding and Hanging it;

Figs. 4 to 6, inclusive, are longitudinal sectional views, partly in elevation, showing successive steps in the shaping of the heel;

Fig. 7 is a. view similar to Fig. 6, showing the stage in the manufactureof the shoe when the fianging of the heel is substatially completed and the insole is about to be ap-V plied thereto;

Fig. 8 is a similar view showing the insole secured to the heel fiange by an adhesive;

Fig. 9 is a similar view showing the step of inserting lasting tacks for further securing the flange to the insole;

Fig. 10 is a similar view of the shoe after the last has been partially inserted;

Fig. 1l is a perspective view of the shoe as it is being pulled over and toe lasted, and

Fig. l12 is a similar view of the shoe after these operations hme been completed.

ln carrying out the invention, there is provided, according to the illustrative method, an upper 2 which may comprise the usual elements, such as the leather, or perha-ps cloth, upper itself, including a toe cap 4, a lining 5 and toe and heel stifi'eners of any suitable type, the heel stifener being shown at 6 in Fig. 2. This upper may be cut more closely to its final size than is the customary practice. After the parts of the upper have been securedtogether, the toe is molded or formed to give it substantially the sha-pe of the last upon which the shoe is to beilargely manufactured. As a result of this operation, as herein illustrated, the marner mold or former l0, an outer mold or cooperating member 12, the two molds being movable both relatively to each other and also movable together with respect to a table 14. and a U-shaped clamp 16 between which the margin of the upper will be yieldingly held. As set forth in the prior patent just mentioned, the toe of the upper, particularly if a certain commonly used type of selfhardening toe stiffener is employed, will be softened by heat or moisture or both before the molding pressure is applied. The inner mold 10 having been drawn away from the l outer mold 12 and the clamping members 14 Fig.`2 is a perspective view of the complete upper after the toe has been molded;

and 16 having been sufficiently separated, the toe of the upper is inserted and properly located, by appropriate gages or otherwise, between the respective molds and clamping members. The latter are then relatively actuated t0 stretch the toe of. the upper and to give it approximately its final shape, as indicated in Fig. 1. After the upper has suiliciently set, the wedge 18 supporting the table 14-L is retracted slightly whereupon both molds are raised further relatively to the clamping members with the .result that the margin of the upper is gradually withdrawn from these members against frictional resistance and, being drawn over the inner lower edge of the member 16, the margin of the upper isshaped as an upright flange 8 (Figs. 2 and 10).

The heel of the upper is next molded. As in the case of the toe, the heel is preferably formed substantially to the ,shape of the last upon which the shoe is to be manufactured but, as is elsewhere herein more fully explained, it is really overmolded to compensate for whatever reaction takes place. As shown in Fig. 3, 'the heel molding apparatus com rises an inner mold or form 20, the upper ace, or the whole of which, is of metal and which is preferably heated as by an electrical unit 22. Suitable mechanism, a portion of which only is shown, is provided for raisin and lowering the mold as required. o-operating with this inner mold is an outer mold 26 which is shown as sectional and provided with a. continuous. lining of leather or the like 28. Above the outer mold are wiper plates 30 for breaking down and shaping-'the heel flange. Preferably, also a neck presser 32 is provided to engage the upper preliminarily adjacent to als the lower edge of the heel stiffener, as shown i fdr example 1n Fig. 4, and to force the upper forwardly and to tilt theends of the heel stiffener upwardly in'the vicinity of the shank of the shoe. The inner mold is movable ,longitudinally relatively to the outer molding parts 26, 30, 32, thus facilitating the placing of the heel of the upper about the inner mold. The location ofthe edge of the upper with relation to the face of the mold 2() and laterally may be determined by the eye or by suitable gages, whereupon the upper is drawn to fit snugly about the mold, as shown in-F ig. '3. Thereafter, the mold 20 is moved relatively backward to the position indicated in Fig. 4 where the neck presser 32 is shown clamping the upper between itself and the lower portion of the face of the mold, thus, as just described, tilting the ends of the heel stiffener 6 and also the overlying upper materials and forming-a pocket to fit the ball of the heel of the wearer.

Then, they outer mold 26 is closed around the upper co-operating with the inner mold 20 tor shape the sides of itsheel. The wipers 30 are then moved inward, and preferably are moved inward and outward several times as indicated by the diagram D in 'Fig 6, to break down, iron and shape the inturned heel flange 38 and to produce a sharp break or angle between it and the sides of the heel.`

hen, the upper is allowed to remain under pressure within the mold until it` has become sufliciently set, whereupon the molds are seperated somewhat as shown in Fig. 7 the inner mold 20 being lowered away from the fiange 38 a distance somewhat vgreater than the thickness of an insole and the pressure on the outer mold 26 being relaxed. However, the mold 20 may be moved also slightly forward if desired. lIt is believed it thereto'. f in Fig. 7 with a sewing ip or rib and with stifi'eners -to shoe bottoms.

that the upper will be sustained b the outer mold in the position shown in ig. 7 but other mechanical means or the hand of the operator mayl 'also assist in thus sustainingit. 'Y

The next step in the process is to locate the insole 40 within` the upper-and to secure The insole, rovided vas shown an adhesive 42 upon its upper face, is now slid into place between the lower face of the.

consolidate the insole firmly against the fiange 38, the pressure being resisted by the wipers 30. Instead of or in addition to the adhesive 42, tacks 44 may be driven through the heel fiange ..38 and the insole 40 and clinched upon the metal facev of the mold 20. As shownv in Fig. 9, any suitable'tool such as an ordinar hand tacker 46 may be employed for this purpose. Before the tacks' are driven, the wipers 30 will be withdrawn sufficiently to expose the inner margin of the upper.

It is contemplated that, under some circumstances; it may be considered preferable to locate the heel of the insole upon the inner mold, somewhat as shown' in Fig. 8, before'the heel flange is broken down and then to shape and iron the flange over the insole during the initial heel molding operation. In that case,.the upper face of the mold 20 may be provided with spurs which are pressedinto the inner face of the in sole and which prevent displacement of the insoleJ durin the heel molding and Hanging operation. loreover, in such case, a thin edged metallic plate may be held upon the end of the insole during this'operation so as to present a rigid edge over which'to form the sharp break or bend in the "upper, this plate .being` withdrawn before the'adhesive 42 is applied or the tacks 44 are driven.

In t-hemolding or shaping of the upper, both at the toe and heel, it will usuallybe preferable to over mold the materials, that is to say, the curves of the molds 10, 20 and of their complemental parts will be exaggerated, thus compensating for the elasticity or reaction ofthe upper materials after they are removed from lthe molds. Indeed, lobviously, if when the upper-is applied to the last, it is thus overmolded, ,less pull thereon Vis required to shape it finally to the lastthan would be the case if the upper were undermolded. On the other hand, even if the materials do react considerably after thay have been removed from the molds, yet, because they have once been stretched or overmolded as described, they can be more easily drawn down to the last again.

The shoe is now ready forsuch further pulling over and lasting as may be desired. A last 48 of an ordinary or suitable type is 'inserted Within the'assembled upper and insoleeither by being passed through the topofthe shoe or, the insole being bent back at the toe, through the bottom thereof. The heel end of the last. is forced well back into ythev molded heel of the upper and against the ficient to state that the machine employed may be generallyof a type now in use and 4 clamps` 54, toe and sidegrippers or pincers 56, tack blocks 58, tack drivers 60 and toe; wipers 61. Preferably, the machine will beprovided also with means for correctly locat ing the forepart of the insole with relation to the edge contour of the' last and also with means for holding down the margin of the insole as the upper is drawn to the last. In Fig. 11, this gaging and holding means is shown as fingers 62each provided with an extension 644` adapted to bear against and aline both the edge of the insole and the edge of the last at its bottom. The fingers are provided. also with lugs or shoulders 66 constructed and arranged to press down upon the feather of the insole outside the sewing rib, These fingers-may be supported in the machine and actuated in any known or suitable manner so as to be withdrawn'from engagement with the insole after the upper has been drawn to the last so as not tol interfere with the mechanisms which carry the upper over and secure it to the insole.

The last 48 having been inserted within the assembled upper and insole and the insole having been laid down upon. the bottom of the last, the shoe' is presented to thepulling over and toe lasting mechanism, the flange 8 being entered between the jaws of the grippers 56 and theinsole being'located on the last by the fingers 62. Because of the preliminary stretching and molding to which the upper has been subjected, very little stress is required to draw the forepart of ,Y the upper snugly to the surface of the last.l

After Athis step. has been accomplished through the action of grippers 56, the fingers 62 are withdrawn and the wiping and tack driving mechanisms are actuated to force the upper over the feather of the insole and into the angle between it and the sewing rib. The upper may then be secured in this position by tacks 68 or by both tacks anda toe binder such as thewire 70. This operation may be erformed as fully described -in said Patent o. 1,135,949. Both the toe and heel lasting having now been completed, the lsides may also be lasted, if desired, by hand or by machine,` although even for a welt shoe, it is contemplated that some shoe manufacturers vwill consider it unnecessary to side last a shoe made according to the above described process except as such lasting iseft'ected durin the attachment of .the welt.

from this point on, the manufacture of the shoe may be completed in any known or suitable manner, the bottom. including both sole and `heel being applied and secured to the lasted shoe and then iinished as may be desired.

While I have thus described in detail one method of practising my invention, it should be understood that my invention is not limited in its broader aspects to the inclusion of every step described because many of the advantages of the invention can be secured by carrying out a portion only of the several steps of the complete process.

Therefore, what is claimed as new and -what it is desired to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises securing a relatively small section only of an upper to a sole 0E the last, thereafter mounting the upper and sole thus connected upon the last, and then drawing a further section of the upper to the last and securing it to the sole.

2. That improvement in the art of making 'shoes which comprise flanging one end of an upper, securing theiiange to one end only of a sole but leaving the greater portion of the sole free, thereafter mounting the a'ssembled upper and sole upon a last and then drawing the upper to the last and securing it immediately thereafter directly to the sole.

3. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises assembling an upper and a sole off the last on which the shoe is to be manufactured, the sole having .approximately the shapeand size of the bottom of the last, securing a section of the margin of the upper to the sole, mounting the assembled upper and sole upon said last,then securing a further section of the upper directly at its margin tothe sole.

4. That improvement in the art of making welt shoes which comprises assembling .an upper and .an insole off the laston which the shoe is to be manufactured, Hanging the heel of the upper, permanently and firmly securing the heel flange to one end of the insole, thereafter mounting the assembled upper and insole upon said last and then drawing another section of the upper to the last and securing it to the insole.

5. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises molding the heel of an upper, including a counter, to a shape corresponding to that of the last on which the shoe is to be manufactured and. roducing therein a heelrflange, inserting t e heel of an insole within the upper and against the heel flange, fastening said flan e permanently to the insole, inserting said ast within the upper and insole thus assembled and then drawing the upper to the last and further securing it to the insole.

6. That improvement in the art of making welt shoes which comprises molding the heel ofan upper, including a counter, to a shape corresponding to that of the 11st on which the shoe is to be manufactured and yproducing therein an inturned heel flange,

inserting the heel of .an insole within the upper,lpressing the heel of the insole against the heel flange and securing them permaing down the margin of the end of an upper and wiping it over the metallic face of a form under heat yto produce an inturned flange, separating the form from the flange, inserting the end of an insole within the upper and against the flange, and then through the form pressing the insole against the flange and securing it permanently thereto. Y p

9. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprisesmolding the heel of an upper substantially to the shape of the last on which the shoe is to be manufactured, breaking down the margin of the upper and wiping it over the metallic face of a heel form to produce an inturned heel flange, separating the form from the flange, inserting the heel of an insole within the upper and against the heel flange, and then through the form pressing the insole against the flange and securing it thereto under pressure by an adhesive and tacks. n

10. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises providing the heel of anupper, including a counter, with an inturned flange, assembling the upper and a sole and securing the flange of theupper permanently to and around one end of the sole by a plurality of tacks, next mounting the assembled upper and sole upon a last and then roceeding with the further manufacture of) the shoe.

11. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises molding the heel of an upper, including a counter, substantially to the shape of the last on which the shoe is to be manufactured but with its curves overmolded and producing in the upper an inturned heel flange, assembling the molded upper and an insole on a metalfaced heel form, securing the flange of the upper to the insole by a plurality of permanent tacks, then removing the work from the form, inserting said last within the upper, and proceeding with the further manufacture of the shoe.

12. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises molding both the toe and heel of an upper to a shape corresponding to that of the last on which the shoe is to be manufactured, and with an inturned flange at one end, securing a sole to said flange off' the last, mounting the upper and sole thus connected upon said last, drawing the upper-to the last and securing it further directly to the sole.

13. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises molding an end of an upper substantially into lasted shape and while holding it in such shape permanently 'securing the margin of the molded end portion only to an end of an insole, all before applying the upper to the last on which the shoe is to be manufactured, then inserting the last, drawing the upper to the last and proceeding with the further manufacture of the shoe.

14. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises overmolding an end of an upper and forming the margin thereof under heat into lasted shape, then securing it under pressure in lasted relation to and around one end of an insole, next mounting the connected upper and insole on a last and proceeding with the further manufacture of the shoe.

15. That improvement in the art of making Welt shoes which comprises manufacturing, as one unit, aniupper having an inturned flange and molded to a shape corresponding to that of the last upon which" the shoe is to be manufactured and connected to a lipped insole having approximately the shape and size of the last bottom, said insole being secured to the flange of the upper, then inserting said last into said connected upper and insole, drawing the upper to the last and proceeding with the further manufacture of the shoe.

16. That improvement in the art of making welt shoes which comprises molding both the toe and the heel of an upper to a shape corresponding to that of the last on which the shoe is to be manufactured, assembling the upper andan insole off the last, securing a section of the margin of the upper to one end of the insole, mounting the assembled upper and insole upon said last and then drawing the upper to the last and securing the unsecured portion of its margin to the insole.

17. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises molding both the toe and the heel of an upper to a -shape corresponding to that of the last on which the shoe is to be manufactured and producing therein an inturned end flange, then while holding the upper in such shape erma- Iiently securing the flange to theend oan insole, next mounting the assembled upper and iplsole upon ay last and then completing the s oe. i

18. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises molding both the toe and the heel of an upper to a shape corresponding to that of the last on which the shoe is to be manufactured and producing therein an inturned heel flange, permanently and firmly securing the flange to the heel of an insole, then inserting said last within the assembled upper and insole with the toe of the insole within the toe of the upper, drawing the upper to the last and securing the remainder of its margin to the insole.

19. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises molding the toe of an upper substantially to the shape of the last on which the shoe is to be manufactured and with an upstanding margin, flanging the heel of the upper and securing the flange to the heel of an insole, inserting said last within the assembled upper and insole with the toe ofthe insole within the toe of the upper, gripping the upstanding flange and drawing the upper to the last and then securing the toe of the upper to the insole.

20. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises molding the toe of an upper substantially to the shape of the last on which the shoe is to be manufactured and with an upstanding flange, producing in the heel of the upper an inturned flange, securing said heel flange to the heel of an insole, inserting said last within the assembled upper and insole with the toe of the insole within thevtoe of the upper, the margin of the toe of the insole being positioned in predetermined relation with the contour of the last bottom, then with the parts so positioned gripping the upstanding flange and drawing the forepart of the upper to the last and securing its margin to the insole.

21. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises connecting together at one end only an upper and a sole off the last on which the shoe is to be manufactured, mounting the connected upper and sole as a unit upon said last, a portion of the margin of the sole being positioned in predetermined relation with the edge of the last bottom, such positioning being effected independently of the connection between the upper and the sole, then drawing the upper to the last and securing it to the sole.

22. That improvement in the art of making welt shoes which comprises producing an inturned flange in one end of an upper,

securing said flange to the end of a lippedinsole, mounting the assembled upper and insole upon a last with the free end of the insole within the upper, the margin of said end of the insole being positively alined with the edge of the last bottom, then drawing the upper to the last and securing the unsecured portion thereof to the insole.

23. That improvement in the art of' making welt shoes which comprises molding an upper including its stiffening materials over a metallic heel form having a bottom face corresponding to the shape and size of the heel of the insole to be used and having exaggerated curvatures on its side faces to effect over-molding of the upper to compensate for its reaction from molded position after it has been freed from the molding means, and sha-ping the margin of the upper over the ed e of the metallic form into an insole attac ing flange, then producing a relative separation of the mold and said flange to provide between them a space within which toinsert the heel of the insole, inserting the heel of the insole next to the flange, clamping the insole and said flange together and while continuing to hold the molded upper around the heel form, securing the upper by said flange to the insole all around its heel end so that the upper is restrained from reacting from its molded shape after the upper is freed from the molding means, and then removing the upper and insole together and proceeding with the further manufacture of the shoe.

24. That improvement in the art of making welt shoes which comprises molding an upper over a heell form having a bottom face corresponding to the shape and size of the heel of the insole to be used and shaping the margin of the upper over the edge of the form into an insole attaching flange, then producing a relative separation of the mold and said flange to provide between them space within which to insert the heel of the insole, inserting the heelof the insole next to the flange, and securing the upper by said flange to the insole so that the upper is restrained from reacting from its` molded shape after the upper is freed from the molding means, and then removing the upper and insole together and proceeding with the further manufacture'of the shoe.

25. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises molding a portion of an upper to a shape corresponding to that of the last upon which the shoe is to be manufactured, relaxin the molding pressure and then, While stil retaining control of the upper, positioning a sole in assembled vrelation thereto off the last and securing the molded upper in lasted relation to the sole.

26. That improvement in the art of mak-v ing shoes which comprises molding an uper over a form and producing therein an inturned heel flange, somewhat relaxing the molding pressure, inserting the heel of an insole next to said flange, re-applying molding pressure and securing the flange of the molded upper permanently and in its final relation to the insole.

27. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises securing a relatively small section only of the lower marginal portion of an upper off the last to one end only of a sole, thereafter mounting the upper and sole thus connected upon a last, and then securing a further section of the margin of the upper to the sole.

28. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises molding one end of an upper off the last With an inturned flange, securing the flange permanently and firmly to and around one end only of a sole, thereafter mounting the upper and sole thus connected upona last, and securing a further section of the margin of the upper in lasted relation to the sole.

29. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises molding an inturned flange at one end of an upper, securing an end of a sole permanently to said flange While the upper is subjected to molding pressure, thereafter mounting the upper and sole thus connected upon a last, and proceeding with thev further manufacture of the shoe.

30. That improvement in the art of making shoes Which comprises molding the heel end of an upper to a shape corresponding to that of the last on which the shoe is to be manufactured and producing therein an inturned flange, securing the heel end of an insole permanently to said flange While the insole is firmly pressed thereagainst and While the upper remains under molding pressure, thereafter mounting the upper and insole thus connected upon a last and proceedirg With the further manufacture of the s oe.

31. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises molding one end of an upper over a form to a shape corresponding to that of the last on Which the shoe is to be manufactured and producing therein an inturned flange, securing an end of an insole permanently to said flange While the upper still remains around the form, thereafter mounting the upper and insole thus connected upon a last, and proceeding with the further manufacture of the shoe.

32. That improvementin the art of making shoes which comprises securing one end of an upper to and around one end only of an insole, thereafter mounting the upper and insole thus connected upon a last, gripping unsecured portions of the upper, stretching the upper over the last and securing such unsecured portions to the insole.

33. That improvement in the art of making shoes Which comprises securing one end of an upper to and around one end only of an insole, thereafter mounting the upperand insole thus connected upon a last, lasting unsecured portions of the upper along the sides of the shoe, and securing them to the insole.

34. As an article of manufacture, a separate shoe unit adapted for assemblage on a last with other separate shoe units to be connected therewith, comprising an upper molded at one end to substantially the shape which it is to have in the finished shoe and having an inturned end flange permanently and firmly secured to and around one end only of an insole. l

35. As an article of manufacture, a separate shoe unit comprising an upper having atone end an inturned flange permanently and firmly secured to and around one end only of an insole having its final shape.

36. As an article of manufacture, a separate shoe unit off the last, adapted for assemblage on the last with other separate shoe units to be connected therewith, comprising an upper molded at its end to substantially the shape which it is to have in the finished shoe and having at its heel end an inturned flange permanently and firmly secured by a plurality of tacks to and around the heel end only of a lipped insole having its final shape.

In testimony whereof I have signedmyl name to this specification. i

MATTHIAS BROCK.

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