US1360287A - Dressmaking - Google Patents

Description

H. M. GREIST.

DRESSMAKING.

APPLICATION FILED JUNE 11, 1920.

Patented N 0v.. 30, 1920.

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H. M.-GRE1ST.

DRESSMAKING.

APPLICATION men JUNE 11, 1920.

1,360,2 7,, Patented Nov. 30, 1920.

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

HUBER/I M. GREIST, OF NEW HAVEN, CONNECTICUT, ASS-IGNOR 'IO JUST SEW READY- CUT GARMENT COMPANY, OF NEW HAVEN,

CONNECTICUT.

CONNECTICUT, A CORPORATION OF DRESSMAKING.

Specification of Letters Patent. Patent d N 30 1920 Application filed June 11, 1920. Serial No. 388,176.

- ing, of which the following is a full, clear,

and exact description.

This invention relates to certain improvements in the art of dressmaking and more specifically to an article of manufacture which comprises dress materials, that is, the elements of a garment, cut out to the size and shape desired, and furnished complete to make the garment, together with suitable directions, for securing said elements together and for completing the garment.

It is a matter of common knowledge that comparatively few women are sufiiciently conversant with the art of dressmaking to make their own clothing, and the result is that garments are either purchased readymade at a relatively high cost, considering the value of the material and labor, or else such garments are made by professional dress-makers which iseven more costly, as a rule. It is well known that a woman who understands sewing and dressmaking can save approximately fifty per cent. of the cost of ready-made clothes, and hence if this knowledge was possessed by the average woman it would result in great economy.

Among the principal reasons why women do not make their clothing at home are the following:

The difiiculty of estimating the amount of material required for a given garment. This involves considerable arithmetic, and is frequently beyond the knowledge of the average person, besides requiring considerable time and mental effort. It is also necessary to estimate the accessories required, such as binding, trimmings, findings, etc, and furthermore, it is necessary to study out the color combinations of the garment, which requires likewise time and thought. In addition to these items, the maker must purch ase and get together all of the above items,

therebyrequiring further time. It is furbraiding, etc, on the differentelements of the garment before assembling said elements.

In addition to the foregoing matters, the dressmaker must understand how to alter the garment in order to make it fit the person for whom it is being made, which requires further skill and experience.

The present invention has for its objects the elimination of the various matters of knowledge required in ordinary dressmaking and also to eliminate from the construction of a garment the necessity of estimating, purchasing the materials, according to such estimates, cutting the materials to pattern, fitting the garment, and like procedures. To this end such invention consists, in its broadest aspect, of a garment, the elements of which are cut out, complete, and of the necessary sizes as well as quality and kinds of material, including color combinations, as shall be selected by the purchaser. The different elements of the garment which have been so previously cut out ready for assemblage, are provided with certain letters or numerals, or both, which are printed either on the edge of the element where they will be folded under out of sight, or trimmed away, or in such manner as to be readily removed by washing and which indicate the points upon the goods where certain operations are to be performed. Accompanying the elements or parts of the garment are the necessary accessories to complete the garment, and also printed and illustrated directions which will refer to the letters and numerals of reference on the various parts explaining the operations to be performed at these points. together with complete illustrated instructions, all of which may be fastened to each element, and which will show precisely the things which are necessary to be done to make up the separate elements into a finished garment.

A garment when furnished in the form above pointed out may, as will be obvious, he made up in large quantities, and each complete garment will embody not only the elements of the garment already cut out, but all of the necessary accessories, such as binding, tape, hooks and eyes, snap fasteners, buttons, ribbons, etc., together with the complete illustrated instructions. lVhen thus furnished the; garment may be ,com-

practically nothing of dressmaking in its engineering or constructive sense, and yet may be able with very little trouble to completely assemble and fit the garment from the material which is furnished as a complete article of nninufacture.

Referring to the accompanying drawings, which illustrate, by way of example, the elements of a blouse or shirt waist, and the accompanying instructions for assembling such elements to complete the garment as contemplated by the present invention:

Figure 1 represents the garment com pleted;

Fig. 2 shows a collar cut from the material for such garment;

Fig. 3 shows the collar facing;

Fig. 4 shows a cuff cut from the material for the garment;

Fig. 5 shows the cuff facing;

Fig. 6 shows one-half of the front;

Fig. 7 shows the back;

Fig. 8 shows the sleeve;

Fig. 9 shows a strip of material which is to be plaited, and

Fig. 10 the printed directions which refer to the letters of reference which are applied to the parts of the garment.

The shirt waist or blouse illustrated in Fig. 1 is made up of the various parts shown in Figs. 2 to 9, inclusive, said parts being cut from the material and furnished complete, as an article of manufacture to the purchaser, together with the directions for assembling said parts.

Referring to Fig. 2, the same. represents the material from which the garment is made out to form a collar 3. It will be seen that a dotted line indicated by the letter P follows the front, sides and back, and said line indicates, as shown in the printed directions, where plaiting is to be applied. The facing for the collar, 5, and said collar are to be provided, as indicated by the letter G, with marks which are placed in juxtaposition so that the collar and facing may be assembled in proper relative position before being joined by stitching. The letter B indicates that binding of the collar is to be performed in the direction indicated by the arrow, around the collar opening, by a binder, which is a well known attachment for sewing machines and the use of which will be explained by the printed directions.

The material which is cut out for the cuff in the form which in Fig. 4;. as indicated by 7 and the cuff facing 8, as illustrated in Flg.

5, are provided with indications at their.

edges and designating numerals as 1, to aid in assembling the same properly. The cufi' material is also provided with a dotted line and arrows, as indicated by the letter P, to show where the plaiting is to be applied.

The front of the garment comprises two halves, cut from the material of which the garment is being made, one of said halves means? being represented by the numeral 10. and having the outline shown in Fig. (i. This piece is for the right hand front, and has indications A, F, U; A. for the right shoulder seam; F for the sleeve position in arm hole, and C for the right under arm seam. II indicates the position for a. hem at the bottom of the waist, and by referring to the printed directions it will be seen that the size one hemmer is to be used at this point. Lines in the directions of the arrows between the letters 1 at the top and bottom edges of the garment, indicate where plaiting is to be applied down the front of the waist. Arrows leading from letters T to T in each instance, indicate pin tucks, while the letter 1 between letters indicating pin tucks, and beyond such letters, indicates where plaiting is to be applied, so that the plaiting and pin tucks will alternate, as shown in the finished garment in Fig. 1.

The same procedure is followed with regard to the tucking in the back 12, illustrated in Fig. 7, where lines of pin tucks are to be made between the points at the upper and lower edges of the garment indicated by the letters T to T inclusive, while the letters A, B, C and D, indicate positions for the right shoulder seam, left shoulder seam, right under arm seam and left under arm seam, respectively.

The material which is cut in the shape of the sleeve, 14, as shown in Fig. 8, has applied to it the letter G at the lower edge, with an arrow, indicating a gather made with rufller, as shown by printed directions, and the points indicated by the letters E, E, and F, indicate respectively the sleeve seam and the sleeve position in arm hole.

The strip of material 16, shown in Fig. 9, is to be formed into plaiting and may have the letters P. S. to show, by reference to printed directions, such use, and also may have the letters H-Z indicating, with an arrow, that a narrow hem with the foot hemmer is to be made along this line.

As before remarked, the directions which accompany the parts of the garment which have been previously cut to pattern and size and applied with the indicating characters, explain fully the treatment of each part before the final assembling of the several parts, and also how the parts are to be assembled. Such directions additionally explain how the sewing machine attachments, which are to be used to perform the various operations indicated, are to be used. From such directions, therefore, in connection with the parts of the garment which have been accurately cut before they are delivered to the purchaser, the latter may with a very limited knowledge previously acquired, successfully perform the several operations on the several parts, and finally secure these parts together, fit them to the person, and do all other acts necessary to make the garment complete, and with a minimum amount of trouble, labor, and expense, as compared with all methods her tofore known, whether they be the readymade garment plan or the home made plan, which latter as is well known r uires the exercise of a large amount of skil and experience.

While the invention has herein been illustrated as applied to a shirt waist or blouse, it is obvious that it is not confined to this garment, but may be employed for any kinds of womens or even mens wearing apparel.

Having described the invention what is claimed is:

1. An article of manufacture comprising the parts of a garment cut from the material from which said garment is to be made, said parts being provided at predetermined po sitions thereon with characters to indicate where certain operations are to be performed in making up said garment.

2. An article of manufacture comprising the elements of a garment cutfrom the ma; terial from which said garment is to be made, and having at definite positions near their edges marks indicating the position for tucks, plalts, hems, binding, or other necessary sewing operations.

3. An article of manufacture comprising the elements of a garment cut from the material from which said garment is to be made, and having lines at certain positions on their edges to indicate seams, and having other lines to indicate tucks or plaits, said indications being of a nature to be easily removed from 'the material of the garment.

4. An article of manufacture comprising the elements of a garment previously cut from the material as selected and of the desired size and shape, and provided with characters of reference and lines at the points on said pieces where tucks, rufiles, plaits, hems, or binding are to be applied, and with other characters of reference to indicate where seams are to be made.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand this 7th day June A. D. 1920.

HUBERT M. GR-EIST.

Witnesses ANNA M. CYLKowsKI, H. W. RUSSELL.

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