US1360262A

US1360262A - Kent s

Info

Publication number: US1360262A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1920-11-30
Anticipated expiration: 1937-11-30

Description

F. E. BERTRAND.

SEWING MACHINE.

. APPLICATION man sEPLH. 1914. RENEWED APR. 12. 1920. 1,360,262.

Patented Nov. 30, 1920.

5 SHEETSSHEET I- F. E. BERTRAND.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 11. 1914. RENEWED APR. 12.1920.

1 60,262. Patented Nov. 30, 1920.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 2- gma mblesses i en F ZwE AE EW m Z M 4m "Xv/Wm I "ZZZQQX F. E. BEHTRAND.

- v SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILEDYSEPT. I1, 1914. RENEWED APR. 12. 1920.

.1 ,360,262, Patented Nov. 30, 1920.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 3- five/mien M 4 Z Z Wi F. E. BERTRAND.

SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION man SEPT. I1,1914. RENEWED APR. 12.1920.

1 ,360,262, Patented Nov. 30, 1920.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

F. E. BERTRAND.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 11. 1914. RENEWED APR. 12, :920.

1,360,262. Patented Nov. 30, 1920..

5 SHEETS-SHEET 5- UNITED STATES PATENT orrics.

FREDERIC E. BERTRAND, OF LYNN. MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOB. BY MESNE ASSIGN- MENTS, TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATEBSON, JERSEY,

A CGRPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

SEWING-MACHINE.

Application filed September 11, 1914, Serial No. 861,215. Renewed April 12, 1920.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I,'FREDERIO E. BER- TRAND, a citizen of the United States, residing at Lynn, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

This invention relates to shoe sewing machines and more particularly to machines for sewing the inseams of shoes.

In the usual commercial process of manufacture of welted and turn shoes the insole and upper are assembled on the last and the upper is lasted by drawing the lower margin of the same over the marginal portion of the insole and is secured in place by temporary fastenings. After the inseam is sewed. there is a considerable portion of the upper in excess of hat which is essential to hold the seam left projecting beyond the inseam and this surplus portion of the upper is trimmed off in the inseam trimming operation. It is necessary in this method of making shoes in cutting the upper to pro vide this excess or surplus at the lower margin of the upper in order to enable the lasting pinchers to secure a grip upon the man gin of the upper. Upper leather is expen 'sive and the excess portion of the upper.

which is afterward trimmed off and wasted adds considerably to the expense of the shoe. It is obviously desirable in order to save expense that the upper before it is attached to the insole be cut to the exact size which it is to have in the finished shoe. In the commercial process of making welted. and turn shoes the parts of the shoe remain on the last from the time when the upper and insole are assembled upon the last until the shoe is finished, which usually takes several days. It is necessary for the manufacturer to keep on hand large number of lasts of various sizes, inasmuch as the lasts must be made of carefully selected material the cost of the lasts is a large item in shoe manufacture. It is evident that the number of lasts which must be kept in stock maybe reduced by reducing the time during which each shoe remains on the last.

The primary ObjBCl) of the present1nven- Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Nov. 30, 1920.

Serial No. 373,390.

which will be obvious to those skilled in the art.

The features of the invention will be readily understood from an inspection of the accompanying drawings and the following detailed description of the same.

The invention has been illustrated as embodied in a machine which comprises a curved hook needle and devices cooperating therewith to form a lock-stitch seam which is designed particularly for sewing the inseams of welted shoes. It is to be understood, however, that the invention may be applied to machines for sewing turned shoes and that except as defined in the claims, the invention is not limited to any particular machine or type of machine.

In the drawings illustrating a machine embodying the various features of the invention in their preferred forms; Figure 1 is a view in front elevation of the machine; Fig. 2 is a view in side elevation of the machine looking from the right Fig. 3 is a View in side elevation of a portion of the machine illustrating the parts in the positions which they occupy when the shoe is to be inserted in the machine or removed from the ma chine, and showing the shoe in section; Fig. 4 is a view similar to Fig. 8 showing the parts in the positions which they assume at a certain point in each cycle of operations; Fig. 5 is a view in front elevation illustrating certain of the parts at the. front of the machine; Fig. 6 is a detail view partly in side elevation and partly in vertical section, illustrating particularly certain of the devices for positioning and guiding the parts of the shoe; Fig. 7 is a detail view partly in front elevation and partly in section illustrating particularly certain of the devices for positioning and guiding the parts of the shoe; Fig. 8 is a detail view in side elevation illustrating a support upon whlch certain of the devices for guiding and posi-.

tioning the parts of the shoe are mounted; Fig. 9 is a detail view in front elevation of the member shown in Fig. 8; Fig. 10 is a detail View of the member which carries the upper edge guide, looking in the direction 0f the arrow a, Fig. 6; Fig. 11 is a detail view of the member shown in Fig. 10, looking in the direction of the arrow 6, Fig. 6; Fig. 12 is a detail view in plan illustrating the presser foot and welt guide and showing the manner in which the welt is presented to the upper and insole; Fig. 13 is a detail view in vertical section illustrating the presser foot, welt guide, aWl and needle, and the parts of the shoe, and showing the relative positions in which the parts of the shoe are located at the sewing point; Fig. 14 is a diagrammatic view illustrating the parts of a shoe and certain of the devices for positioning and guiding said parts in the positions which they assume at one point during each cycle of operations; Fig. 15 is a view similar to Fig. 14 but illustrating the devices for positioning and guiding the parts of a shoe in the positions which they assume at another point in a cycle of operations.

The machine illustrated in the drawings is a curved hook needle lock-stitch machine of the same general type as the machine for sewing outsoles illustrated in the patent to French and Meyer, No. d73,8?0, dated April 26, 1892. lVith the exception of the pull-off, the stitch forming devices and feed slide of the machine illustrated, and the mechanism for actuating the same have substantially the same construction, arrangement and mode of operation as the corresponding parts of the machine illustrated in the above patent. In the drawings, 2 indicates the curved hook needle. -.l: the needle guide, 6 the awl, 8 the looper, 10 the thread finger, 12 the shuttle, 14 the thread lifter, 16 the take-up,

18 the auxiliary takeaip, 20 the tension and 22 the feed slide.

The pull-off comprises a thread roll mounted upon the end of an arm 22 fixed 'to a rock shaft 24 mounted in bearings in the frame of the machine. An arm 26 is fixed to the opposite end of the rock shaft and is connected by a link 28 with the downwardly extending arm of a bell crank 30 pivoted upon a stud 32, the horizontally extending arm of which carries a cam roll 34 engaging'a cam groove in a cam disk fixed to the main shaft of the machine. By the oscillation of the bell-crank 30 a constant throw is imparted to the pull-off through the mechanism described. An adjustable connection is provided between the downwardly extending arm of the bell crank 30 and the rear end of the link 28, as shown in Fig. 2 so that the rear end of the link may be adjusted toward and from the axis of the bell crank to vary the throw of the pull-off. The reason for employing a pull-off having a constant throw instead of a pull-off in which the throw varies with changes in the thickness of the work as in the machine illustrated and described in the above patent will be hereinafter explained.

In preparing the parts of a shoe for presentation to the machine illustrated, the upper of the shoe is cut to the exact size which it is to have in the finished shoe, neglecting the stretching or lasting of the upper which is performed after the inseam is sewed. Be-

fore the upper and insole are assembled, the

upper is molded at the toe so as to give it substantially the form of a lasted upper. In this molding operation the portion of the upper, above the line of the inseam which is to form the toe of the shoe, is molded into the proper shape and the marginal portion of the toe of the upper is molded inwardly so that it will lie properly over the marginal portion of the sole and is then turned outwardly so as to form a crease in which the inner margin of the welt is laid as the inseam is sewed, the extreme marginal portion of the upper being formed in folds or plaits in this operation just as in the lasting operation of the ordinary process of manufacture of welted shoes. The molding of the toe of the upper into shape is preferably performed after the toe box is inserted between the upperjand the lining, and, in order to cause the upper to hold its shape, particularly along the margin where the folds are formed therein, size or cement is applied between the upper and the lining before the molding operation and the molding operation is performed by heated forms. The marginal portion of the upper at the heel is also preferably molded. inwardly at an angle to the upper portion thereof, so

that it will lie properly over the heel of the insole. The insole employed is preferably provided with a slit near its margin, forming what is ordinarily termed a channel or channel lip, and with a shoulder formed by cutting away the marginal portion of the insole along the outer face thereof leaving a comparatively flexible portion of the insole at the upper margin which is usually termedthe feather. It is not, however, es-

sential that the insole have this particular with the awl during the feeding of the shoe. The inner face of the outer margin of the insole is supported bya sole support or guide 40 and the outer face of the feather is engaged and supported by a shoulder or crease guide 42, the lower edge of'which is arranged to engage the shoulder at the outer portion of the between substance of the insole. The marginal portion of the insole is thus supported particularly three points by the channel guide, sole guide. at l shoulder or crease guide. In the construction illustrated the sole guide and the crease guide are both formed upon member 44 which embraces the feather of the insole and is pivoted co-axially \Viththe awl upon the feed slide, and is mounted on the feed slide so that it moves therewith during the movements of the feed slide. The member 44 is secured by means of a screw 46 to a forwardly projecting portion of a pivoted support 48 which support is loosely mounted upon a boss 50 projecting laterally from the left hand side of the post 38. The support 48 is held in place by the awl segment 52 which is mounted upon a pivot stud 54. The member 44 is yieldingly depressed so as to engage the creaseguide and the sole support carried thereby lightly with the work by means of a light compression spring 56 mounted in an are shaped recess 58 in the support 48 and engaging at its rear end the rear face of the recess 58, and at its forward end a pin 60 fixed in the post 88. The movement of the support 48 in a direction to depress the member 44 is limited by the engagement of a stop 62 formed on the sup port 48 with the pin 60.

During each cycle of operations, starting at a point 'ust after the feed slide has been brought back to its initial retracted position after the work has been fed, the member 44 is depressed lightly by the spring 56 to engage the crease guide with the shoulder of the insole and to press the sole guide against the sole, is then subjected to a heavy spring pressure through the agency of the presser foot in a manner to be hereinafter described, so as to tightly clamp or grip the between substance of the sole between the channel guide and the crease guide, and to press the sole guide firmly against the inner face of the sole, and is then looked in position until after the feed slide has advanced to feed the work. Before the feed slide retracts the member 44 is lifted slightly so as to relieve the sole from the clamping pressure between the channel guide and the crease guide and to relieve the pressure of the sole guide against the inner face of the sole so that the guides will not have any appreciable drag or friction against the sole when the feed slide retracts.

In placing the upper of the insole 1n the machine in position to be sewed, the upper is positioned over the outer end of the member 44 so that said member extends within the shoe as shown particularly in Figs. 4, and 15. The machine is provided with a presser foot indicated at 64 which engages the outer face of the marginal portion of the upper above the member 44. In the present embodiment of the invention the presser foot carries a welt guide for guiding the welt to the sewing point, a portion of the shield of the welt guide forming the upper engaging portion of the presser foot. As shown particularly in Fig. 5, the forward upper corner 65 of the member 44 is rounded or beveled off and the upper engaging portion of the presser foot extends at an angle to the horizontal, so that when the presser foot is depressed, the opposite faces of the mar in of the upper are clamped between the forward upper corner of the member 44 and the opposed portion of the presser foot. As will be noted from an inspection, particularly of Figs. 8, 4 and 5, the work engaging face of the presser foot is shaped to engage in the crease molded in the marginal portion of the upper at the toe and form a guide for the upper. The presser foot is mounted upon an arm 66 which is pivoted co-axially with the awl so that the presser foot may be lifted and depressed during each cycle of operations. In the illustrated construction the arm 66 is pivoted upon the awl stud 54 and is held. in place on said stud by the nuts 68 threaded on the end of the stud.

During each cycle of operations of the machine starting at a point just after the feed slide has retracted to starting position the presser foot is depressed with a heavy spring pressure so as to grip the upper between the opposed faces of the presser foot and the member 44, and is locked in position until after the feed slide has advanced to feed the work. The depressing of the presser foot serves not only to clamp the upper in position, but causes the member 44 to be depressed so as to grip the insole firmly be tween the channel guide, the crease guide and the sole guide. It is to be noted that during the feeding movement of the parts of the shoe the upper and insole are thus securely clamped in their proper relative positions so that neither of these parts can be rela tively displaced. After the work has been fed and the needle has advanced through the work the presser foot is lifted out of engagement with the upper so that there will not be any drag upon the marginal portion of the upper as the feed slide retracts. The

lifting of the presser foot relieves the member 44 from the depressing action of the presser foot thereon and after the presser foot has been lifted some distance from the work the member 44 is lifted slightly as hereinbefore described so as to relieve the &

insole from even the light spring pressure occasioned by the action of the spring 56. The feed slide then retracts without exert ing any appreciable friction or drag upon either the upper or insole, which might tend to displace relatively the same. In order to lift the member 4A when the presser foot is raised out of engagement with the upper a forwardly projecting lug is formed on the hub of the arm 66 and carries an abutment screw 72, the upper end of which engages an abutment 74. formed upon a forwardly projecting portion of the support 48, as the presser foot is lifted, and raises the member 44.

To gui le the edge of the upper in correct relation to the insole and to the stitch forming devices the machine is provided with an upper edge guide indicated at 76. The construction of this guide is shown particularly in Figs. 6 10 and 11. The upper edge guide is formed with a guiding face 78 located adjacent the sewing point and at the proper distance to the rear of the paths of the needle and awl and is cut away at an angle to the line of feed in advance of the sewing point as indicated at 80 forming an inclined face leading 'fOlVillClly toward the face 78. The guide is also provided with an overhanging lip 82 located above the inclined face formed at the cut away portion of the guide. The upper edge guide is immovable in the direction of feed. and is pivoted coaxially with the needle so that it will move vertically with the member 44 as said member is raised and depressed. In the illustrated construction the upper guide is formed with a laterally projecting pivot stud 84: which is journaled within a sleeve 86 formed integral with the plate 88 upon which sleeve the needle segment and needle guide seg :ient are pivoted, a screw 90 threaded into the stud 84 acting to hold the parts in position in the bracket 92 in the frame of the machine. In order to cause the upper edge guide to move vertically with the member a l the forward portion of the edge guide rests on said member and said member is formed with an overhanging ledge 9st (see Figs. 6 and 7) which engages above a portion 96 of the upper edge guide. During the sewing operation, the portion of the upper in advance of the sewing point is held by the hand of the operator with its edge extending rearwardly at an angle to the guiding face 7 8 of the upper edge guide beneath the lip 82'so that the edge of the upper is led forwardly at an angle to the guiding face 7 8 and is constantly crowded against the right hand portion of said face. This insures that the edge of the upper will be brought to the proper position with relation to the stitch forming devices at the sewing point and prevents the seam from being formed too closeto or from running off the edge of the upper. The overhanging lip 82 on the upper edge guide prevents the upper from being drawn back over the top of the guide.

To enable the presser foot to be actuated in the manner described the hub of the arm 6 is formed with series of gear teeth 98 which mesh with a series of corresponding teeth 100 formed on the end of the forwardly projecting arm of a lever 192 pivoted upon a shaft 104.. The end of the rearwardly projecting of the lever 102 is pivotally connected to the lower end of a rod 106 the upper end of which passes through a collar 08 pivoted by means of a stud 110 to the forward end of a cam lever 112 which carries a cam roll 112 engaging in a cam groove in a cam disk mounted on the main shaft of the machine. t compression spring 114 surrounding the rod1 1H5 engages at its respective extremities a stop nut 116 on the rod and the collar 108 and acts normally to main tain the collar in engagement with a stop nut 118 on the upper end of the rod. The presser foot is lifted from the work by the upward movement of the forward end of the cam lever 112. During the downward movenent of he forward end of the cam lever 112 the presser foot is depressed into engagement with the work and when it has been brought into engagement with the work further downward movement of the forward end of the cam lever acts to compress the heavy spring 114i, thereby subjecting the presser foot to a heavy spring pressure. 1 :1: construction of the actuating mechanism for the presser foot allows the presser foot to accommodate itself to differences in the thickness of the material between the l-h uide and the crease guide and to ciilerences in the thickness of the upper. The mechanism for locking the presser foot after it has been depressed during each cycle of operations comprises a pair of pawls 120 pivoted side by side upon a stud 122 secured a bracket 12% attached to the frame of the machine, the toothed lower ends of said pawis being arranged to engage a series of teeth 126 formed on the end of the rearwardly projecting arm of the lever 102. The pawls are actuated to engage tne toothed ends thereof with the teeth 126 by means of compression springs 128, mounted in the bracket 12a and engaging the rear sides of the pawls. To release the pawls so that the presser foot may be lifted during each cycle of operations of the machine the pawls are each provided witha tail. 130 which projects upwardly in position to be engaged by a peripheral cam formed on a cam disk attached to the main shaft of the machine.

To enable the presser foot to be lifted by the op erator with the parts of the machine in any position which they assume during a cycle of operations an arm 134 is pivotedon the stud 122 and carries a pin 136 which projects laterally in front of both the pawls 120. The end of the arm 1.3-1 projects forwardly into position to be engaged by the rear ei'. l of an arm 138 of a lever 138-14O pivoted on stud 142 carried by the lower end of a bracket ill. The arm 138 of the lever 13814t-O is connected by a treadle rod 1&6 with a treadle not shown. The arm 140 of the lever 138-1 l0 is arranged to engage a pin. 1.48 carried by a downwardly project ing arm on the lever 102 to lift the presser toot when the arm 138 is depressed. The relation of the parts are such that the arm 140 will not engage the pin until the pawls 120 have been disengaged from the teeth 126 by the movement of the arm 134 produced by depressing the arm 138. The rear end of the arm 138 formed so as to maintain the pawls 120 out of engagement with the teeth 126 on the end of the rearwai'dly projecting arm of lever 102 until the presser foot is engaged with the work upon the upward. movement of the arm 138. The arm 138 is normally held in upward position by means of a spring 150, the upward movement of the arm 138 being limited by the engagement of a stop 152 with a suitable stop on the frame.

The welt guide by which the welt. is con ducted to the sewing point comprises the usual frame 156 and a sheetmetal shield 158 secured to the frame by means of bolt 160. The welt edge guide 1.62 which engages the forward edge of the welt between the shield and frame is secured to the frame by means of a screw 164 and is adjustable to suit welts of different widths. T 0 enable the welt guide and presser foot to be adjusted. for wardly and rearwardly on the-arm 66 the shank of the presser foot is secured to the arm 66 by means of a screw 168 passing through a slot in the arm 66 and screwed into the shank of the presser foot, a tongue and groove connection being provided between the shank of the presser foot and the arm to prevent the turning of the presser foot on the screw ,68.

It is to be noted that the shuttle is located on the side of the work adjacent the welt and upper, and that the lock between the needle and shuttle threads is pulled down into the work from the side thereof opposite the channel of the insole. The stroke of the pull off is regulated so that the lock between the needle and shuttle threads will be drawn completely through the welt and upper into the between substance by the action of the take-up in setting the stitch. The channel guide, being vertically fixed, causes the bottom of the channel. of the insole that is adjacent the point of operation always to assume the same vertical position relative to the stitch forming devices and pull of? having'a constant throw is em ployed so that the lock between the threads will be positioned substantially the same distance from the bottom of the channel in each stitch formation regardless of the thickness of the work.

Fig. 14 of the drawings illustrates the manner in which the insole is gripped by the channel guide, sole guide, and shoulder or crease guide during the feeding movement of the feed slide, the parts being represented period in the cycle of operations, the marginal portion of the insole is held from displacement in a direction transverse to the plane of the insole by the guides, during the retracting movement of the feed slide, the channel guide being engaged in the channel and the outer portion or feather of the insole being guided or positioned by the sole guide and the forward face of the shoulder or crease guide.

The welt guide is inclined upwardly at an angle from the sewing point, as shown in Fig. and is also slightly inclined to the plane of the insole, as shown in Fig. 4:, the welt being presented by the welt guide to the upper and insole as shown particularly in Figs. 1, 12 and 13. The welt guide and sink slightly into the stock, par aicularly if the stock is thoroughly tempered. This sinking of the channel guide into the stock has a tendency to cause the right hand upper corner of the channel guide to catch in the stock as the feed slide retracts. This tendency is obviated, however, in the present machine by the action of the take-up, which as it executes its loop-drawing stroke to set the stitch tends to swing the insole about the forward upper corner of the channel guide and thereby lift the insole from the right hand upper corner of the channel. guide. The lower edge or face of the crease guide which engages the shoulder of the insole and the upper edge of the channel guide which engages with the bottom of the channel are constructed substantially perpendicular to the paths of the needle and awl, thereby causing the between substance of the insole which is gripped between them to assume a position substantially perpendicular to the needle and awl during each stitch formation. By the cooperative action of these guides as the presser-foot is depressed to clamp the work between them the insole is swung to bring the between substance thereof into the proper position relative to the needle and awl for the formation of each stitch. The construction, arrangement and mode of operation of the channel guides, sole guide and crease guide, are such in the illustrated embodiment of the invention that these guides in connection with the awl and needle take care of the insole Without the assistance of the operator during the entire operation of sewing the inseam of the shoe. the insole being manipulated and positioned automatically by the guides to bring the between substance at the point of operation into the proper position with relation to the stitch forming devices.

In placing the upper and insole in the machine, the forward .end of the welt having been first passed through the welt guide, the treadle is depressed to lift the presser foot and the member 44 as shown in Fig. The insole is then positioned to engage the channel guide 36 in the channel and to locate the marginal portion or feather between the sole guide 40 and the crease or shoulder guide 42. The marginal portion of the up.- pcr is then laid over the upper face of the forward portion of the member 4A with its edge engaged with the guiding face 78 of the upper edge guide. As hereinbe ore stated the portion of the upper in advance of the sewing pointis held with its edge beneath the overhanging lip 82 on the upper edge guide and extending rearwardly or away from the operator at an angle to the line of feed Briefly described, the operation of the various parts of the machine during each cycle of operation is as follows: Starting at a point in a cycle of operations, after the feed slide has retracted, and just before the awl pierces the work, the presser foot'at that time being locked-in depressed position and gripping the upper between its lower face uLLx,

with the needle. The awl then retracts and.

the needle follows the awl through the work. a flvencing into position to receive th thread from the looper. During the piercing of the Work by the awl, the forward movement of the feed slide to feed the work, the retracting movement of the awl and the advance of the needle, the marginal portions of the upper and insole are held securely in position by the devices which grip the same so that they are prevented from relative displacement and are presented in the )roper )osition to the stitch formin de A 23 vices. After the needle has advanced through the work the presser foot is unlocked and lifted to release the marginal portion of the upper from the grip between the lower portion of the presser foot and the opposed portion of the member 44, after which the member A is lifted slightly so as to relieve the insole from the pressure of the sole guide and crease guide but not sufficiently to release the feather of the insole from between these guides. While the insole, upper and welt are held in position b the needle, the feed slide moves back to starting position, the upper running freely between the presser foot and the member L4 and the portion of the insole between the channel guide, sole guide and crease guide passing'through between the guides without any objectionable drag of these guides upon the same. When the feed slide has reached the limit of its retracting movement, the presser foot is again depressed to grip the marginal portion of the upper and cause the marginal portion of the insole to be gripped. by the channel guide, crease guide and sole guide, and is locked in de pressed position during the remainder of the cycle. The needle having received a loop of thread in its barb from the looper retracts from the work drawing the loop through the work which is then passed about the shuttle and drawn down into the work by the action of the take up to complete the stitch.

In each stitch formation at the time that the take-up executes its loop-drawing stroke the member 44 which lies between the margins of the insole and upper has moved back to retracted position allowing the upper to be drawn down close to the shoulder of the insole by the action of the take-up.

Having explained the nature and object of the invention and having specifically described a machine embodying the various features thereof in their preferred forms,

what is claimed is:

l. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, in combination,

through the between substance and to relieve T V the sole from the pressure of the guides during each cycle of operations, and a support for the sole arranged to extend within the shoe to engage the inner face of the sole.

2. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlastedshoes, having, incombination,

stitch forming mechanism including a needle, a channel guide, a sole guide arranged to engage the sole inside the margin of the upper, means for advancing said guides in the direction of feed and for retracting the guides, means for relatively moving the guides toward and from each other to cause them to grip the marginal portion of the sole and hold the same in proper position for the passage of the needle through the between substance and to relieve the sole from the pressure of the guides during each cycle of operations, and a support for the sole arranged to extend within the shoe and engage the inner face of the sole.

3. A sewing machine for sewing inseams 01E unlasted shoes, having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle, a channel guide, a shoulder guide for engaging a shoulder on the marginal portion of a sole within its edge having an unvarying operative position with relation to the path of the needle and cooperating with the channel guide to grip and hold the between sub stance of the sole in proper position for the passage of the needle therethrough, and support for the sole arranged to extend within the shoe andengage the inner face of the sole.

4:. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, in combination, stitch forming devicesincluding a needle,

' channel and shoulder guides, means for relatively moving said guides toward and from each other to cause them to grip the between substance of the sole to position and hold the same in proper position for the passage of the needle and to relieve the between substance from the pressure of the guides during each cycle of operations, and a support for the sole arranged to extend within the shoe and engage the inner face of the sole.

5. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, in combination, stitch forming devices including needle, channel and shoulder guides, means for advancing said guides in the direction of feed and for retracting the guides, and means for relatively moving the guides toward and from each other to cause them to grip the between substance of the sole to position and hold the same in proper position for the passage of the needle, and to relieve the sole from the pressure of the guides during each cycle of operations.

6. A sewing machine for sewing inseams 0t unlasted shoes. having, in combination, stitch formingmechanism inending a needle, a channel guide, sole guidearranged to engage the sole inside the margin of the upper, a support for the sole arranged to extend within the shoe and engage the in nor face of the sole, means for advancing said guides and said support in the direction of feed and for retracting the guides and the support, and'means for relatively moving the guides toward and from each other to cause them to grip the sole to position and hold the same in proper location for the passage of the needle through the be- 1 tween substance and to relieve the sole from the pressure of the guides during each cycle of operations. 7

7. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a neea channel guide, a sole guide arranged to the sole inside the margin of the upper and cooperating with the channel guide to position and hold the sole in properposition for the passage of the needle through the between substance, a support for the sole arranged to extend within the shoe and engage the inner face of the sole and means for advancing the guides and the support in the direction of feed and for retracting the guides and the support during each cycle of operations.

8. A sewing machine for sewing inseams oi unlasted shoes, having, in combination, stitch forming devices, including a needle, channel and shoulder guides, a support for the sole arranged to extend within the shoe and engage the inner face of the sole, means tor advancing the guides and the support in the direction of feed and for retracting the guides and the support, and means for relatively moving the channel guide and shoulder guide toward and from each other to cause them to grip the between substance of the sole to position and hold the same in proper position for the passage of the needle and for relieving the sole from the pressure of the guides during each cycle of operations. i

9. A sewing machine for sewing iii-seams of unlasted shoes, having. in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle, a channel guide, sole guide arranged to engage the sole in de the margin of the upper, means for relatively moving said guides toward and each other to grip the sole and hold the same in proper position for the of the needle through the between substance and to relieve the sole from the pressure of the guides during each cycle of operations, and means for gripping the margin of the upper and holding the same in proper position relative to the between substance of thesole for the passage "Oi the needle therethrougn.

'10. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, combination, stitch forming devices including a needle, channel guide, a sole guide arranged to engage the sole inside the margin of the upper, means for relatively moving said guides toward and from each other to grip the sole and hold the same in proper posh tion for the passage of the needle through the between substance and to relieve the sole "from the pressure or the guides during each cycle of operations, and upper gripping means for gripping and holding the marginal portion ot' the upper in proper position relative to the lxstween. substance of the sole arranged to engage the inner and outer faces of the margin of the upper.

11. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlast'ed shoes, having, in combination. stitch forming mechanism including a needle, guides for positioning and holding the marginal portion oi the sole in proper position for the passage of the needle through the between subs ance, an upper engaging device extending within the mar gin of the upper, and a presser toot for engaging the outer face of the upper to grip the upper against said device.

12. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, guides for posh tioning and holding the marginal portion of the sole in proper position for the passage of the needle through the between substance. upper gripping means for holding the upper in proper position relative to the between substance oi. the sole arranged to engage the inner and outer tacos of the margin of the upper, means tor'moving the guidesand the upper gripping means in the direction of feed, and for retracting the guides and said means, mechanism for actuating the upper gripping means to grip and release the upper.

13. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, in combination. stitch forming mechanism including needle, a channel guide, a member arranged to extend between the margin of the upper and the sole, a sole guide carried by said member cooperating with the channel guide to grip the marginal portion of the sole and hold the same in proper position tor the passage of the needle through the between substance and a support for engaging the inner face of the sole carriedby said member.

14. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, in combination. stitch forming mechanism including a needle, a channel guide, a member arranged to extend between the margin of the upper and the sole, a sole guide carried by said member cooperating with the channel guide to grip the marginal portion of the sole and hold the same in proper position for the passage of the needle through the between substance, a support for en agingthe nner face of the sole carried by said member, and

a presser foot for engaging the outer face of the upper to grip the upper against said member.

15. A sewing machine vtor-sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a needle, a channel guise, a member arranged to extend between the margin of the upper and the sole, a sole guide carried by said member coiiperating with the channel guide to, grip the marginal portion of the sole and hold the same in proper position for the passage of the needle through the between substance, support for engaging the inner face of the sole carried by said member, a presser foot for engaging the outer face of the upper to grip the upper against said member, and a welt guide carried by the presser foot.

16. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having. in combination, stitch forming mechanism, guides for positioning and holding the marginal portion of the sole in proper position for the passage of the needle through the between substance,

moving said guides toward and from each other to cause them to grip the marginal portion of the sole. and hold the same in proper position for thepassage of the needle through the between substance and to relieve the sole from the pressure of the guides during each cycle of operations,

means for gripping the margin of the upper and, holding the same in proper position relative to the between substance of the sole. and a guide for the welt.

18. A'sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle. guides for positioning and holding the marginal portion of the sole in proper position for the passage of the needle through the between substance, means for gripping the marginal portion of the upper and holding the same in proper position relative to the between substance'ot the sole and a guide for the edge or" the upper 19, A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having. in combination, stitch forming needle, a channel guide, a sole guide arranged to engage the sole inside the margin of the upper, means for relatively moving the guides to grip the marginal portion of mechanism including a for the passage of the needle through the between substance and to relieve the sole from the pressure of the guides during each cycle of operations, means for gripping the marginal portion of the upper in proper position relative to the between substance of the sole, and a guide for the edge off the upper.

20. A sewing machine for sewing inseams or" unlasted shoes, having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle, guides for positioning and holding the marginal portion of the sole in oroper position for the passage of the needle through the between substance, means for 3 pping the upper to hold the same in proper position relative to the between substance arranged to engage the inner and miter faces ot the upper and a guide for the ot the upper. i

21. A sewing machin tor sewing inseams ot unlasted shoes, having. in combination stitch forming devices including a needle, guides for positioning and holding the marginal portion of the solo in proper position for the passage of the needle through the between substance, means for gripping the upper and holding the same in proper positon relative to the between substance oi the sole, means for moving said guides upper gripping meansin the direction of teed in each cycle of operations and aguide the edge of the upper. fired in the dire tion or" feed.

22. sewing machine for sewing inf-seams or unlasted shoes, having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a eedle, a channel guide, a sole guide arranged to engage the sole inside the margin of the up; ver, a support for the sole arranged to extend within the shoe and engage the inner :tace of the sole, means for gripping the marginal portion of the upper arranged to engage the inner and outer faces of the upper, means for moving the sole guides and support and the upper gripping means in the direction of feed and for retracting the same during each cycle of operations, and means for relatively actuating the sole guides, and the upper gripping means to causethem to grip the sole and the margin of the upper and hold the same in proper position for the passage of the needle through the margin of the upper and the between substance of the sole as the guides and upper gripping means advance in the direction of feed and for releasing the sole and upper as they retract to starting position.

' 23. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle, the operating mechanism theretpr, a wor'k support adapted to, enter theuniastedshoe and support'successiveportions of the sole margin, a guide for engaging the inside of the channel lip, an upper engaging device, and means for movingthe upper engaging device in the direction of feed during the feed of the work.

24. A sewing machine for sewinginseams of unlasted shoes, having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a curved needle, and operating mechanism therefor a channel. guide and a sole supporting guide arranged to engage progressively the sole within the unlasted shoe and permit the shoe to be moved with relation to the supporting guide and an upper engaging device movable toward and from the channel guide.

25. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a curved needle and operating mechanism therefor, a channel guide and a sole supporting'guide arranged to pro ressively engage the sole within the unlasted shoe, an upper engaging, device and a gage for the edge of the upper.

26. A sewing machine for'sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, work guiding and positioning devices for guiding and positioning the parts of the shoe in proper relation to the stitch forming mechanism at thepoint of operation comprising a support for the sole arranged to extend within the shoe and engage the inner face of the sole and means for moving said support in the direction of feed and for retracting said support in each cycle of operations.

27 A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a needle, sole guiding and gripping devices for positioning andv holding the marginal portion of the solo in proper position for the passage of the needle through the between substance, means for moving said devices in the direction of'feed with the shoe in each cycle of operations and for retracting said devices and means for relatively actuating saiddevices to cause them to grip the sole as they advance in the direction of feed and to relieve the sole from the pressure of said devices as they retract to their initial positions. Y

28. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a needle,'sole and upper guiding and gripping devices for positioning and holding the marginal portions of the sole and upper in proper position for the passage or" the needle through the marginof the upper and the between substance of the sole, means for moving said devices in the direction of feed in each cycle of operations and for retracting said devices, and means for relatively actuating said devices to cause them to grip the upper and sole and hold the same in position as they advance in the direction of feed and to release the upper and sole as they are retracted to starting positions.

29. A sewing machine for sewing inseanis of unlasted shoes, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, devices for positioning and guiding the parts of the shoe comprising an upper edge guide formed with a guiding face in advance of the sewing point inclined tothe direction of feed.

30. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, devices for positioning and guiding the parts or a shoe comprising an upper edge guide having a cut away portion and an overhanging lip in advance of the sewing point.

31. A sewing machine for sewing inseams ott' unlasted shoes, having. in combination, stitch forming mechanism, devices for gripping the marginal portions oi? the'u'pper'and sole and holding them in proper position during their presentation to the stitch forming mechanism for the passage of the needle t1 rough the margin of the upper and between substance of the sole com )risin a support for the sole arranged to extend within the shoe and engage the inner face of the sole, and a welt guide arranged to present the welt to the upper and'sole in proper position for the passage of the needle through the inner margin of the welt.

82. A. sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, in combination, stitch .iorming mechanism, guides for positioning and holding the marginal portion of the sole in proper position for the par?- sage of the needle through the between sub stance comprising a sole support arranged to engage progressively the sole withinthe unlasted shoe and permit the shoe to be moved with relation to the support, and means for gripping the marginal portion of the upper and holding the same in proper position relative to the betweensubstance of the sole, comprising a presserfoot'shaped to engage the crease in the molded upper and, form a guide for theupper.

A sewingmachine for sewing inseams or unlasted shoes,having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a needle, a channel guide, a member arranged to extend within the margin of the upper and embrace the marginal portion of the sole so as to form a support for the inner and outer faces of the margin of the sole, and means for relatively moving said member and the channel guide toward and from each other, to grip the marginal portion of the sole and hold it in proper iosition for the passage of the needle through the between substance and to relieve the sole of pressure duringeach cycle of operations,

34. A sewing machine for sewing inseams 1 same dle, a sole support arranged'to extend with in the shoe and engage the inner face of the sole, guides cooperatin with said support to hold the marginal portion of the sole in proper position for the passage of the needle through the between substance, and upper gripping means arranger. to engage the inner and outer races of themargin of the upper for holding the upper in proper position relative to the insole.

A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted. shoes, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a needle, guides for positioning and holding the marginal portion of the sole in proper position for the passage of the needle through it ie between substance comprising a sole support arranged to engage progressively the sole within the unlasted shoe and permit the shoe to be movedwith relation to the sup port, upper gripping means for holding the marginal portion of the upper in proper position relative to the sole, and means for moving the upper gripping means in the direction of feed during each cycle of operations.

36. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a needle, guides arranged to engage both the inside and the outside of the margin of the sole for positioning and holding the marginal portion of the sole in proper position tor the passage of the needle through the eon substance and means for moving and guides in the direction of feed during each cycle or operations.

3?. sewing machine for sewing mseams sole for positioning and holding the mar- V ginal portion of the sole in proper position for the passage of the needle through the 7 between substance, means for moving the guides in the direction of feed and torretracting the guides, and means for operating the guides to cause them to grip the marginal portion oi the'sole and to relieve the sole from the pressure of the guides during each cycle of operations.

38. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a needle, a channel guide, a member arranged to extend between the margin otthenpper and the sole, a shoulder guide carried by said member coiiperating with the channel guide to grip the marginal portion of the sole and hold the same in proper position for the passage of the needle through the between substance, and a support for engaging the inner face of the sole carried by said member.

39. A sewing machine for sewinginseams of unlasted shoes, having, in combination, stitch i'orming mechanism including a needle, sole guiding and gripping devices including a sole support arranged to extend within the unlasted shoe for positioning and holding the marginal portion of the sole in proper position for the passage of the needle through the between substance, means for moving said devices in the direction of feed in each cycle of operations, and for retracting said devices, and means for relatively actuating said devices to cause them to grip the sole as they advance in the direction of feed, and to relieve the sole from the pressure of said devices as they retract to their initial position.

40. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a sole support arranged to extend within a shoe to support successive portions of the sole margin, a channel guide, a device arranged in opposed relation to the channel guide and. cooperating therewith to grip the work, and means for advancing the channel guide and said device in the direction of feed and for retracting the same during each cycle of operations.

41. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, a sole support arranged to extend within a shoe to support successive portions of the sole margin, a device arranged to engage the outside of the shoe and cooperating with the sole support to hold the parts of the shoe in position, and means for advancing the sole support and said device in the direction of feed and for retracting the same during each, cycle of operations.

42. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a sole support arranged to extend within a shoe to support successive portions of the sole margin, a channel guide, and means for advancing the sole support and channel guide in the direction of feed and for retracting the same during each cycle of operations.

43. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a sole support arranged to extend within a shoe to support successive portions of the sole margin, a channel guide, a device arranged to engage the outside of the shoe and cooperating with the sole support and channel guide to hold the parts of the shoe in position, and means for advancing the sole support, channel guide and said device in the direction of feed, and for retracting the same during each cycle of operations.

44. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a sole support arranged to extend within a shoe to support successive portions of the sole margin, a channel guide, an upper engaging device cooperating with the sole support and channel guide to hold the parts of the shoe in position, and means for advancing the sole support, channel guide and upper engaging device in the direction of feed, and for retracting the same during each cycle of operations.

45. A wax thread sewing machine, having, in combination, a work support, a presser foot, a work penetrating tool, and means for moving the work support, presser foot and tool in the direction of feed and for retracting the same during each cycle of operations.

46. A wax thread sewing machine, having, in combination, a work support, a

resser foot, awork penetrating tool, means tor relatively moving the work support and presser foot toward and from each other during each cycle of operations, and means for moving the work support, presser toot and tool in the direction of feed and for retractirig the same during each cycle.

47. wax thread sewing machine, having, in combination, a work support, a presser foot, a workpenetrating tool, and means for moving the work support and presser foot in the direction of feed and for retracting the same while the tool is in the work.

48. A wax thread sewing machine, having, in combination, a work support, a presser foot, a work penetrating tool, means for relatively moving the work support and presser foot toward and from each other during each cycle of operations, and means for moving the work support and presser foot in the direction of feed and for retracting the same while the tool is in the work.

49. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, two work piercing tools, a work support, a presser foot, and means for moving the work support and presser foot and one of said tools in the direction of feed, and for retracting the same while the other tool is in the work during each cycle of operations.

50. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a needle, sole and upper guiding and gripping devices including a sole support arranged to extend within the unlasted shoe, for positioning and holding the marginal portions of the sole and upper in proper position for the passage of the needle through the between substance and margin of the upper, means for advancing said devices in the direction of feed and for retracting the same during each cycle of operations, and means for relatively actuating said devices to cause them to grip the sole and upper as they advance in the direction of feed and to relieve the sole and upper from the pressure of said devices as they retract to their initial positions.

51. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a needle, devices "for positioning and holding the parts of the shoe in proper position for the passage of the needle including a sole support arranged to extend within the un lasted shoe, means for advancing said devices in the direction of feed and for retracting the same during each cycle of operations, and means for relatively actuating said devices to cause them to grip the parts of the shoe as they advance in the direction of feed and to relieve the parts of the shoe from the pressure of said devices as they retract to their initial positions.

52. A sewing machine for sewinginseams of unlasted shoes, having, in combination, a work piercing tool, means for actuating'said tool to feed the work, devices for positioning and holding the parts of a shoe in proper position for the passage of the tool therethrough including a sole support arranged to extend within the unlasted shoe, means for moving said devices in the directionoi? :feed with the tool and for retracting the same during each cycle of operations, and

means for relatively actuating said" devices to cause them to grip and hold the parts of a shoe during the passage of the tool therethrough and during the advancing movement of said devices in the direction or" feed and to relieve the parts of the shoe from the pressure of said devices as they retract to their initial positions. a

53. A sewing machine for sewing inseams of unlasted shoes, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a needle, devices for positioning and holding the parts oi the shoe in proper position for the passage of the needle therethrough including a sole support arranged to extend within the unlasted shoe, means for advancing said devices in the direction of feed while the needle is out oi the work and for retracting the same while the needle is in the work, and means for relatively actuat ing said devices to cause them to grip and hold the parts of the shoe during their advancing movement in the direction of feed and during the work piercing movement of the needle and to relieve the parts of the shoe from the pressure of said devices as they retract to their initial positions.

5%. 5i sewingmachine for sewing inseams.

of unlasted shoes, having in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a needle, a work feeding awl, devices for positioning and holding the parts of the shoe in proper position for the passage of the needle and awl therethrough including a sole support arranged to extend within the unlasted shoe, means for advancing said devices in the direction of feed and for retracting the same with the awl during each cycle of operations, and means for relatively actuating said devices to grip and hold the parts of the shoe during the work piercing movement of the awl, the advancing movement of said devices in the direction of feed, and the work piercing movement of the needle, and to relieve the parts of the shoe from the pressure of said devices as they retract to their initial positions.

F REDERIU E. BERTRAND.

Vtitnesses (1. M. SINOERBEAUX, CHARLES E. GRUsH.