US1339732A - Btjttowhoue-sewibra machine - Google Patents

Description

. 43. KLIEN.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICAHOH FILED SEPT. 23. 1916.

1,339,732, rmnmllayil, 1920.

IN VE N TOR WITNESS E. 8. ALiEN. BUITONHOLE sawms MACHiNE.

APPLWHQN "Lib SEPT. 23 I916.

2 9 Z 1 H um. s mm w .36 M 8 km E m Run, P

a .QN R m at m MEN nmnusr I E. B. ALLEN. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION HLED SEPT.23, 1915- 8 SHEETS--5HEET INVENTOR M /J fla BY fwa Patehted May 11,1920.

A ITORNEY E. B. ALLEN.

BUTTONHOLE SEWlNG MACHINE.

APPLICAHDN HLED SEPT. 23, I915.

Patented May 11,1920.

8 SHEETS-SHEET 5- E. B. ALLEN.

BUTTONHOL E sewmc MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 23, 19l6.

1,339,732. Patented May 11,1920.

8 $HEETS-SHEET I.

WITHE88= INVEMTOR A TTOIi'NE Y E. B. ALLEN.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION mm SEPT. 23,

"'' Patented May 11, 1920.

8 SHEETS-SHEET 8.

ATTORNEY UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

EDWARD B.

MANUFACTURING COMPANY,--A CORBO AlLLEN, OF BRIDGEPOB-T, CQNNECTICUT, ASSIGNOR TO THE SINGER }ATION OF NEW JERSEY.

Bu'rToNHonE-snwmc MACHINE.

7'0 alt whom it may comma;

Be it known that I, Enhcme B ALfJZN, a citizeniof the United States residing at Bridgeport, in the county of Fairheld' and State of Connecticut, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in ButtonholeSewing Macliines,of which the following is a specification, reference being lied therein to the accompanying drawings.

Sewing machines, as heretofore; con structed for producing buttonholes textile fabrics, have been customarily provided with adjusting means for determining the periodof cooperation of the stitch forming and feeding mechanisms and the. length of travel ofthe work for production of difierent sized buttonholes, and variationflin the traverse of the work has usually affected its speed-of movement in. spacing thestitches so as to require readjustment to1 cause the groper laying of the stitches around the uttonhole. These adjustments required an intimate knowledge of the mechanism of a degree not possessed by the ordinary sewing machine operator, and therefore neces- "sitated the care of the machine under such condition by a special machinist.

The present invention has for an object to so construct machines of this class that they are susceptible of such changes with quickness and precision, so as to insure the greatest economy in the operators time in changing from one to a different class of work and avoid the employment of an experienced machinist in connection with the ordinary use of a sewing machine under normal working conditions. The invention has for a further object to provide me ns for changing the spacing of the stitches not only independently of'the means for con- 1, trolling therange of movement of the work but in such manner that th'rsgnav he quickly and accurately efl'pcted regardless of the skill of the operator..

The invention has for a further object to Jrovide a machine which shall be effective in operation and shall have the necessary safe-guards to insure precision in the sequence of operation of its several trains of mechanism.

While the present invention is not limited to embodiment in machines of any particular type or construction, it is especially adapted for buttonhole cutting and stitchspecification of Lettersfatent Patentgd M ay 11, 1920, Monica filed sebum-Ber 23, 1915;. Serial, No. 121,733. a

holder and a feed-wheel connected there-- with and adapted to impart to it traveling movements suitable for production of the longest buttonhole for which the machine is designed. liemovably mounted upon the machine and detachably connectednvith the feed-wheel, with which it is normally maintained in driving relation, is a controlling wheel provided with a camrack engaged by a follower connected with the stop-motion whereby both the starting and stopping of the machine shaft is effected. The controlling wheel is further provided with turning means which are active while the main-shaft is at rest, during which period its propulsion of the feed-wheel acts through various connections to perform certain operations auxiliary to the production and spacing apart of the stitches around the buttonhole.

"The machine preferably contains buttonhole cutting mechanism comprising traveling coiiperative cutting elements actuated by a cutter-shaft independent of the mainshaft and adapted to be automatically conplcd to and uncoupled from a. continuously running driving element connected .with the source of power. Means are preferably provided, which are periodically connected with said driving element, for initially closing the work-holder upon the work and spreadinn the same and then setting in motion the controlling' wheel actuating means in the perfornian eoi' a luittonhole";iroducing cycle.

The invention will be understood by reference to-the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 15 a front side view of a.

machine embodying the present improvements, and Fig. 2 a plan of the same with the bracket-arm standard in section and the parts above the section plane removed. Fig.

3 is a rear side elevation of the machine and Fig. 1 :1 bottom plan of the same. Fig. 5 is a front end elevation of the machine and Fig. 6 a rear end elevation thereof with the l..-racln t-arm standard in transverse section to expose partswithin the same. Fig. 6- is a perspective view representing a portion of the stop-motion device. Fig. 7 is a perspective view representing various operative parts of the machine with the frame represented in dotted lines. Fig. 8 is a perspective view representing the controlling wheel and its actuatin and controlling means, and Fig. 9 is a are view of a different controlhng wheel detached. Fi 10 is a perspective view of a portion 01 the Stop-motioncontrolling mechanism.

Figs. 11 and 12 are perspective views of the lower work-clamping elements and their rrier, respectively, with certain accessories. Figs. 13 and 14 are perspective views and Fig. 15 a sectional plan of parts of the work-clamp side-shifting means. Fi 16 is a perspective view of a portion of the clamp' preading means. Fig. 17 is a perspective view of the feed-wheel and the means for imparting turning movements to the stitch-forming mechanism. Figs. 18 to 21, inclusive, are perspective ions, and Fig, 2 a sectional plan, representing detache certain coiiperating elements of the starting mechanism. Fig. 23 is a perspective view representing portions of the clamp-opening and tension-releasing means. Fi .Z-i is a sectional elevation representing the needle-jogging means, and Figs. 25, 26 and are perspective views of certain of its parts detached. Fig. 28 is a transverse sectional elevation of the overhanging member of the bracket-arm and the take-up device. Fig. 29 is a. perspective view of the buttonhole cutting device and its actuating means. and Fig. 30 a transverse section representing the cutter-carrier and replaceable cutters sustained thereby.

As represented in the drawings the frame of the machine is constructed with the hollow base 1 from which risesdhe bracket-arm composed of the standard 2 and tubular overhanging arm 3 terminating in the ho]- low head 4. Journaled within and longitudinally of the base 1 is the maitushaft 5 carrying near its rearward end the bevel gear 6 meshing with a similar gear 7 secured upon the lower end of the 'i1prigl1t.shaft 8. Secured upon the upper end of the shaft 8 is the hub 9 of a bevel gear 10 beneath which and upon the hub 9 is secured the similar bevel gear 11. Meshing with the gears 10 and 11 are the smaller and larger bevelgears 12 and 13, respectively, the one being fixed upon the upper needle driving shaft 14 journaled in the mer her 3 of the bracketarm and the other fixed upon the rearward end of th tubular shaft or sleeve 15 surroundin the shaft 14 and adapted to rotate independently thereof. As represented in Fig. 1, the intermeshing gears 11 and 13 are of the same diameter to transmit o erative movements from the shaft 8 to the s eeve 15 in unison, While the driven bevel-gear or pinion 12 is of one-half the diameter of the driving bevel-gear 10, whereby the needledriving shaft 14 is driven at double the speed of the upright shaft 8.

In general construction and arrangement of parts, the needle mechanism of the resent improvement is similar to that a? my Patent No. 1,161.277, of November 23, 1915, the tubular needle-bar 16 being journaled in upper and lower bearings afforded respectively by the boss 17 and the rotary sleeve 18, and deriving its reciproQtqi-y movements from connections cluding the pitman 19 and the crank-e merit 20 secured upon the forward end of the needle-actuating shaft 14.

he needle-bar sustains at its lower end a yoke 21 upon which is slidingly mounted the laterally jogging needle-holding block 22 in which is secured the shank of the needle 23. The block 22 is provided with a leterally adjustable section 22' secured thereto by a clamp-screw 22 by means of which the lateral working position of the needle may be determined. In the present needlejogging mechanism. the forked arm 24 of the angular switch-lever embraces a lateral -pin 25 of an intermediate lever 26 fulcrumed upon the needle-bar yoke 21 and carrying a shouldered stud 27 entering a slot of the needle-holding block. The stud 27 is adjustable in a slot extending lengthwise of the lever 26, so as to provide for adjustment of the amplitude of lateral jogging movements of the needle.

The loop-taking echanism cooperating with the reciprocating and joggin needle is preferably constructed substantia ly in accordance with that of my Patent No. 1,030,046. of June 18. 1912, and comprises the eyed looper 28 and opposed non-threaded looper 29 with overlying spreader 30, all mounted upon the rocking looper-carrier 31 which is sustained by the rotary turret 32 journaled in a bearing bracket 33 sustained within the base 1. Cooperating with the threaded looper 29 and working transversely thereof is the loop-detainer 34. The looger mechanism coiiperates with the latent jogging needle 23 in the production of a. chain-stitch over-seam.

The work-holder and its operating means are constructed in substantial accordance with my Patent No. 1.136388, of Apr-i120, 1915. although differing therefrom in certain important features. It is mounted upon the cross slide-plate 35 having at its forward end the depending apertured lugs 36 fitted upon the cross-rod 37 which is sustained by the longitudinally traveling shrieplate 19* mounted in a suitable slideway in the top ol' the bed 1. The slidc-plate 555 has in its forward end the closclv spaced notches ll) entered by the, bond d pivotal stud 40 depending from the :uljaccnt forward corners of the, swinging clamp-plates ill. The studs l are detachaldy confined within their respective notches 155) by means oi the angular spring-plates 40 secured upon the under side oi the cross slide-plate 35 and notched in their adjacent edges to embrace and engage the heads of the respective studs 4) below which they may be |-n'esscd to release the studs for removal of tho clamp-plates 41.

lincb of the clamp-plates has secured upon its rearward end a ln'aring brncket comprising the spaced upwardly extending plates 42 formed at opposite ends with apertures 43 and H to receive respe tively the clamp-arm l'ulcrmn-pin 45 will the clamp-closing: rock- I shall; 46.

Upon the fulcrum-[nus 45 are mounted by suitable .ureans the rear ends of the cln|up-nru1s 47 each carrying the pivotally mounted clamping foot 48 with serrated lower face opposed to" the rorrcs )On'd ingly serrated faces of the work-clan ping iorticns t!) of the clamp-plates 41, whose; ad iaccnt edges are recessed as usual toalford clearance for the stitrlrforining mechanism in thc ,titching ot buttonholes. The rocksbal't it? is provided with the usual depending ram projectimis 5 acting upon wearing plates 51 overlying the clamp-arms 47 and serving;' to depress the latter in opposition to tl eir lifting springs 52. An adjustable r-rtop-scrcw 5d sustained by the rock-shaft 46 engages one of the wearing plates 51 to limit the closing movement of the shaft and tappct-arn s 54 also carried by said rockshat'ts and engaging: stop-lugs, 55 adjustably secured -to the bracket members 4). serve to limit thc clamp-opening movements 01" these rock-shafts.

Upon the adjacent ends of the rock-shafts 46 are secured the upwardly extending arms 56 and 57 which are Pl'UVh d with pin-andslot connections for; insuring the clampopcning and closing movements of said roclo shafts in unison. Suitably journaled within the bcd l is u transverse feed-shaft 58 upon which is lixed the teed-wheel 59 formed with the rcarwardly extending tubular hub (EU. The wheel 59 has in its forward face the work-feuding cam-groove (H which is entcrod by a stud (32 intermediate the ends of a lever 63 having; its hub (34 journaled upon the fixed fulcrum'stud (i5 and connected at its opposite end by means of the link 66 with :1 lug 67 depending from tbiwork-bolder sustaining slide-plate 38. 'lhrough the dcsrribed connections, the feedwvheel imparts to the work-holder longitudinal traveline movements having a range which is uniforni' slide-plate 35. Through the described con- 7 nections, the work-holder derives from the feedwheel uniform side-shift movements in each buttonholc producing cycle.

The boss 72 has in one siden longitudinal slot 77 with countersunk recesses 78 at the ends to receive the head of the clamp-screw 79 whose shank passes through the slot 77 and enters a threaded aperture 80 in the pin 73. By retracting the screw Til sufliciently for its head to emerge from either of the cavities "(8, it mav be used to shift the roller stud 75 upwardly or downwardly, respectively, into or out of the guideway 76 of the cross slidoplnte 35, the. turning of the screw ineither of the extreme positions of the pin 73 serving to lock its head within the respective rarity 78.

When the roller-stud 75 is retracted from its normal position in the guidewny 76', the rock-lever 70 is adapted to move idly without'cti'ert upon the work-holder, and the machine is adapted for stitching straight but}- tonholes. l-nder this condition of adjustment, the set-screw 8L, normally screwed into a holding aperture 82 of .the boss 72, is introduced into a threaded aperture 83, Fig. 4, in one of the lugs 2&6 and serves to clamp the same to the cross-rod 37 so as to prevent the accidental lateral shifting of the workholdcr during the operation of the machine.

Similarly to the machine represented in any said Tatcnt No. 1,030,046, the needlebar bearing sleeve 18 has fixed thereon the pinion H4 engaged bythn rack 85 which is" 11: turn connected for reciprocation with the slidcbnr Rf; journaled in the machine frame. The tubular spindle 87 ot' the notary turret 32 has fixed thereon the piniorfBP-l meshing with the rack 54!) secured in the forward end of the slide-bar on which is mounted in bearings Within the base I. The bars 81) and 90 {are rigidly,connected by means of a frame member 91 secured upon the bar 90 and having an upwardly and forwardly projecting arm 92 carrying the coupling plate 93 embraced by the spaced collars 94 upon the bar 86 and formed with a notch 93 embracing the bar 86.

The frame 91 is connected by means of thelink 95 with the upper end of a swinging: lever 96 having its opposite end the aperturcd boss 97 journaled upon the fixed stud-pin 98 and having intermediate its ends a laterally projecting boss 99 carrying the roller-stud 100 which enters the cam-groove 101 in the forward face of the feed-wheel 59. In the rotation of the feed wheel, the bars 86 and 90 are moved first rearward] and then returned to initial position for e footing first a semi-rotation of the stitchformi mechanism in the stitching of the eye of t e buttonhole and then turned in the opposite direction to restore the stitching mechanism to initial position, in a manner well known.

As will be observed by; reference more particularly to Fig. 4:, the use 1 has a housing recess in its forward side formed between the forward and rearward transverse framemembers 1' and 1" and the longitudinally extending member 1" having a rearwardly offset portion 1"" sustaining the fulcrum-stud 98 and formed with a suit able clearance aperture for passage of the roller-stud 100 entering the cam-groove in,

the adjacent face of the feed-wheel 59 disposed in the said framerecess.

The mechanism for actuating the feedwheel for producing relative feeding movements between the work-holder and the stitch-forming mechanism in each stitching period is similar in general construction to that of my Patent No. 1,234,252, dated July 21, 1917, although diilering therefrom in detail. Secured upon the upright shaft 8 ,is a bevel pinion 102 meshing with a similar pinion 102) fixed upon the transverse shaft 104 which is journaled in the bearing boss 105 of the frame-member 1" and carries upon its outer end the driving disk 106 car rying the two diametrically opposite and eccentrically disposed stud-pins 107. The stud-pins 107 are adapted to enter the radial spaces 108 intermediate the peripheral teeth 1020i the driven disk or member mounted upon the hearing stud 110 sustained by the basemember 1" As indicated in Fig. 3, the periphery of the driven member embraces the axis of the driving shaft 104 the peripheral teeth 109 differing in form rom those of my saidpatent in the provision of radial interdental spaces, thereby reducing the nterval of dwell in the initial engagement of each of the driving pins 107 therewith while in practice .providing a suilicient dwell for interruption of the travel of the work .while the needle is descending through it and rising sulliciently to present its loop for seizure by the loop-taker. The driven wheel has secured thereto the gear-wheel 111 meshing with a lar r gear wheel 112 which is mounted upon t e hearing stud 113 carried by a lateral arm 114 of an angle lever fulcrumed concentrically with the stud 110 and having :1 depending arm 115 formed with a segmental slot 116 concentric with the stud 110 and entered by the clampscrew 117 tapped into the frame member 1 and adapted to secure the angle-lever in anyI position of circular adjustment.

pon the hub 112 of the gear 112 is loosely mounted the ratchet-wheel 118 having a tubular hub 11S upon which is loosely fitted the change-wheel 119 formed with an eccentrically disposed aperture entered by the pin 120 projecting from the adjacent face of the ratchet-wheel 118 to cause them to rotate in unison while permitting the replacement of one change-wheel by another of different size. The head of a cap-screw 121 tapped into the end of the stud 113 serves to confine the gears 112 and 119 and the intermediate ratchet-wheel 118 in operative relation.

The ratchet wheel 118 and the gear 112 are connected to rotate in unison in oils irection by means of the clutch-pawls 1 2,

which are mounted upon diametrically (fpposite studs 123 sustained upon the rearward face of the gear 112 and pressed into operative relation with the peripheral teeth of the ratchet-wheel by means of springs 124. The pawls are spaced apart circumferentially in multiples of a ratchet-tooth length, less a half-tooth length, in a manner well known in connection with ratchet mechanism.

The change-heel 119 is maintained in mesh with the larger gear-wheel 125 having its hub 125' fitted upon the hub 60 of the feed-wheel and secured thereon by means of the cross-pin 126 passin through both hubs and the feed-wheel sha t to insure their r0 tation in unison. By the means described, the driven wheel 108 109 receives two forward impulses for each rotation of the mainshaft throughout a stitching period, these impulses being transmitted through the described train of gearing to the feed-wheel shaft and through it the feed-wheel fixed thereon, and hence relative feeding diurements are produced through the operation of the feed-wheel between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-holder throughout each stitching period. The wheel which carries the teeth 109 and which partal'res of a progressive step-by-ste movement in one direction, may be consi ered as a driving member for the feed-wheel 59. The ratchet wheel 118 and clutch-pawls 122 thus constitute one-way acting connecting means be tween the driving member and the feedwheel.

The gear-wheel 125 has upon its rearward face the laterally projecting pin 127 entering an aperture 128 in the controlling wheel 129 which is formed with two segmaital series of ratchet teeth 130 separated by a larger ratchet-tooth 131 extending out .30 The pri '40 rock-shaft 145.

-'iivardly beyond the points of the adjacent teeth and m circumfereptial alinement with the smootliperipheral portion 132 of the wheel. -Between the peripheral portion 132 v 5 and the last ratchet-tooth of the preceding series there is a pawl-lifting incline 133, and between the opposite end of said smooth per1pheralport1on and the first tooth of the succeeding series of ratchetteeth there is man abrupt should er 134. The controlling wheel129 has upon its rearward face a stopinotion controlling annular rib 135 cut away upon one side to forri a segmental recess terminating at one'end in the inclined shoulder 136 and at the other end in anabrupt forked to embrace the gear-wheel hub 125' which is formed with diametrically opposite slits to receive the same .(Fi 3 and 4). Within'said recess the controfiing wheel is shown provided with thumb-screws 139 whose heads afi'ord handles by which one controlling wheel of a set may be retracted,- after wi drawal of the spring locking late 1313 for. lacemcnt by another whichunay be similarly locked in place.

here} teeth 130 of the controlling wheel' or e ement are adapted for eng'age ment by the chisel-pointed block 140 adjustably secured upon the reciprocating awl-bar 141 formed upon its loweredge mtermediate its ends with the flat seat 142 and having its downwardly inclined rearward end pivotally connected by mea'ns of the stud-pin 143 with a crankarm 144 sea cured upon the adjacent end of atransverse The rock shaft 145has secured thereon intermediate its ends the crank-arm 146 (Fig. 7) pivotally connected by means of the link 1 17 to the strap 148 embracing an actuating eccentric 149 formed upon the hub 150. (Fig. 1) of the loose beltwheel 151 mounted upon the main-shaft 5 and constantly driven by a belt connection with the source of power in a manner wellknown.

Q The pawl-bar 1-11 thus performs constant reciprocating movements and'operates, when in engagement with the ratchet-teeth of the controlling wheel, to impart to the feed wheel shaft, and hence to the feed-wheel,

' 5 two step-by'step partial rotations at a comthe feed-wheel for each buttonholc producinq cycle.

he pawl-bar 141 is normally maintained 'lifted out of operative relation with the periphery of the controlling wheel by means of 15* the anti-friction roller 1532 (Figs. 7 and Q) i 129 constitute tripping means carrie 'the screw-pin 164'. upon the wheel is formed in its inner mounted upon the stud 15-") projecting from the inner face of a depending holding arm 154- having its hub loosely jo'urnaled upon the fllll'l'lllll-Illl] 156 mounted ina hear ing brat-ketlS? sustained by the machine.

frame. The arm 15-1 has an extension 15 1' provided with an car 158 to which is attached one end of a spring 13!) havinp its ezppositc end attached to a fixed pin 160 igs. 4 and H) by means of which the roller-stud 152 is normally pressed against the side face of the [)1l\\'l-l)lll' 141 beneath which it snaps when the pawl-tooth at the end of the bar 141 rises sulliciently ,in' its engagement with the inclined face of the ratchet-tooth 131 or the inclined shoulder 1.33 adjacent the peri heral portion 132 of the controlling whceii 'l'l1c'roller-152 is preferably of slightly taper form toward its outer end so as to act as a wedge under the impulse of the spring 159 to give the pawlhar a supplemental lifting movement to retract its pawl-tooth clear of the periphery of the controlling wheel when disengaged therefrom. Motion for the rapid food of the work preparatory and subsequent to stitching is thusnlerived from the.pulley wheel 151 which constitutes a continuously rotatiug )otrer element. The tooth 131 and she (ler 133 on the teed-controllin wheel 5 by the feedeshaft 58 for elfecting the disconnectionof the latter from pawl 14-1 and its actuating connections with the pulley 151. he hub 155 of the arm 154 has a later ally extending arm 161 having an upturned tooth 162 with an upwardly and forwardly inclined operative face adapted foii'engagement with the similarly inclined face of a tripping pawl 163 fulcrumed by means of depending crank-arm 165 of a'transvcrse rock-shaft 166 journaled in the standard 2, said pawl being normally maintained pressed in contact with the head of the stop-screw 167 by means of a s ring 168 secured upon said crank-arm. he tripping pawl 163 has a lateral arm 169 by means of which it may be moved in opposition to the spring 168 to disengagethe flat nose of the pawl-tooth from that of the arm 161 at certain times.

As disclosed more fully in my said Patent 0. 1,136,388, the transverse cutter-actuating shaft 170 carries at its forward end a loose constantly driven belt-wheel 171 which is driven by means of an encircling belt connected with the source of power. The beltface with the cam-groove 172 having at one point in its periphery the eiecting block 173 with up posite'ly inclined ends. This cam'groove is adapted to he entered by the Spring-pressed and normally retracted plunger-pin 1T4 mounted within a socket in a boss 17 5 upon one of the arms 176Lof a plural-armed rock -nelway 184 of the base, Fig. .185 connected at opposite curls with an eye lever which is formed with a lateral clampolosin arm 177 and 2: depending clampsprea ing arm 178, and is fulcrumed at the junction of its arms upon the stud-screw 179 tapped into the arm standard 2. At the beginning of a buttonhole-prodiu:ing cycle, the plunger-pin 17 4 is permitted to enter the cam-groove 172. and in the continued rotation. of the belt-wheel 171. the plural-armed lever receives a single rocking movement, after which the plunger-pin is ejected by means of the block 173.

The leverairm 177 carries at its outer end the roller-stud 180 which is adapted to en gage the upper edge of the lateral crankarm 181 fixed u on the forward end of the rock-shaft 46 0 the adjacent work-clamp section whereby the connected roolcshafts are turned to effect the depression of the rcspective clamping feet 48 upon the work.

The depending lever-a rm 178 is connected beneath the top of the base 1 by means of the link 1532 with a depending lug 1825 of a slide-plate 183 mounted in a suitable chan- 7 A spring of the lug 183 and a stud of the basc 1 serves to draw the slide-plate n43 ar-l thc link 182 forwardly into normal position. The slide-plate 183 has a lateral lug 186 sustaining, the screw-pin is? which affords a fulcrum for one end of a swinging latchlever 188 having at its opposite end the up turned lug 189 normally pressed outwardly by means of a spring 191) secured at one end to the screw-pin 187 and having its opposite end resting against the lug 1H9.

When the machine is at rest. the lug 1 9 normally rests against the side face of thc depending portion of the transverse hcad 191 of a rook-lever 19; (Figs. 2 and 113) fulcrumed intermediate its ends upon thc stud-screw .193 and having connected with its oppositely extending arin onc cod of a link 194. The other end of said link is connected to one end of the rock-lever 195 which is fulorumed upon the stufhscrew 15 1i and is connected at its opposite ends \vithlthc tog gle links 197. The iulcruln-stiul 196 issue tained by a erossmelnher 35 of the cross slide-plate 35, and the fulcrulnstml 19:1 is similarly sustained liy one of the overlying plates 198 secured upon said cross slide-plate adjacent opposite edgcs thcrcol'. (Fig. 12).

overlying the plates 198 are the spreader slide-plates 199 to which the respective toggle links 197 are pi votallv connected by means of the screw-pins 200. The oppositely extending arms of the rock-lever 195 and the links 197 together constitute connected toggle devices for forcing apart and drawing together the spreading slide plates 1.99.

Each of the plates 199 carries a stud-pin 201 adapted to en age the head of a stoppin 202 sustained hy a lug; 203 having its foot 201 secured upon the outer side face of one of the hearing brackets 42 of the work-holder. The free ends of the clamp plates are pressed toward each other for such engagement of the stop-pins 2112 with the stud-pms 201 by means of springs 205 secured at. one end upon the respective clanip-plato by the fastening screws 2116 and having their opposite ends resting in contact with the grooved stuihpins 2417 upon the plates 198.

In the rocking of the plural-armed clampclosing lcvcr, the slide-plate 183 is first drawn hackwardly by the levenarm 175 to cnahlc the lug 189 to snap outwardly hrhind the head 191 of the lever 19:! after which in its return movement it turns the lever 19; upon. its fulcrum and thereby straighten the togglcs 19.1, 197 and forces apart the slidcilatcs 199 which correspondingly sprcads hc clamp-plates with. their cooperative work r-lamp elements. In this spreading movement. a stoppiu 2118 upon the. plate 199 serves to prcicnt the overthrow of the lever 19:2.

(ounccted with the spreading rock-lever 191") at its junction with the link 197 toward the rearward side of the machine is onc arm of a tappetlever 209 fulcrumed in tc'nncdiate'its ends upon the screw-stud 210 upon the cross slide-plate and having an oppositely extending arm whose outer end lichwithin the range of movement of one cud ot the trip rod 21.1 slidingly mounted wil hin the base of the bracket 1.57 and havin at its opposite end the upwardly extcnding lug 212. The lug 212 is normally disposed within the range of action of a cam projection 213 upon the rearward end of the cutter-shaft 179, and in the rotation of said cutter-shaft for actuation of the buttonhole cutting device at the completion of a stitching operation, the ram 213 advances the trip rod to engage the tappet-lever which causes the bending of the t ggles and the unspreading of the work-hol er.

Connected at one end with theilever-arm 17a is a link 21.4 pivotally connected at its oppositc end with a crank-arm 215 fixed upon the forward end of the rock-shaft 166. The actuation of the clamp -elosing lever acts through the described connections to rock the shaft 166 and to thereby impart o ierative movements to the crank-arm 165 carrying the tripping pawl 163 to effect the operative ei'igagement of the pawl-bar 141 with the controlling wheel.

Journaled upon the fulcrum-stud 216 tapped into the standard 2 is the hub 21.7 of the starting rock-lever having a depend ing arm 21S and a forwardly extending arm 219 formed at its free end with a lateral lug 290 having an elongated aperture to receive the upper end of the treadle rod 221 having at its upper end the spaced thrustnnts 222 and provided below the same with the thrust collar 223 intermediate which and a collar 224 sustained by the base is interposed the sprin 225 acting through the rod 221 to retain t e starting lever in stopping position. When actuated to start the machine, the edgeof the lever-arm 218 engages the round nose of the latch-arm 226 fulcrumed upon the fixed studscrew 227 and normally maintained in latching position by means of the spring 228 by which it is held yieldingly in contact with the stop-screw 229. The latcha-rm 226 has a lateral extension 226 by means of which it may he tripped to release the starting lever. v

The starting lever-arm 218 has upon its inner face a screw-stud 230 upon which is mounted the tripping arm 231 yieldingly maintained in contact with the stop-pin 232 by means of the spring 233 having one end secured by the screw 234 upon the arm 218 and'the other and r ting upon the edge of the tripping arm 1g. 19). Lying within the range of movement of the tripping arm is a lateral stud 235 llpOl'l one arm of a latchrelease lever 236 fulcrumed intermediate its ends upon the stud-pin 237 sustained by the swinging latch-lever 238 having its hub 23!) jom'naled upon the stud-screw 240 which is tapped in the standard 2. The latch-lever 238 carries a stoppin 241. to limit the movement of the lever 236 thereon, and

has 3. depending latch-tooth 242.

The plunger-pin 174 has a reduced ortion extending rearwardly through the ruttom of the socket 175 and provided with a lateral notch 174' with its farther extremity inclined for engagement with the latchtooth 242 of the latch-lever 238 which normally maintains the plungenpin 174 retract-ed in opposition to its sprin 174". The strength of the spring 243, which nor mally presses the lever 238into latching position is suilicient to overcome the tension of the spring 174" when the latch-tqoth 242 engages the inclined end of the notch. 174' to force the plunger-pin backwardly so as to maintain its head slightly retracted from the range of movement of the ejecting block 173 of the cam-groove 172.

\Vhen the treadle rod 221 is drawn downwardly, the starting lever is moved into starting position wherein it is held throughout a button]iole-producing cycle by the latch-arm 226. In this movement, the edge of the tripping arm 231 engages the stud 235 of the release-lever 236 and tilts the latter into engagement with the stop-pin 241, thereby retracting the latch-lever 238 in opposition to its spring to release the plunger pin 174. In case i the lunger-p1n should enter the cam-groove 1 2 in front of the ejecting block 173, it wonld he merely forced thereby interrupting the rigid connection between the starting lever and the latch lever and permitting the latter to return to operative engagement with the side of the plunger-pin under the action of its spring 243, the latch-lever following the lateral movements of such pin, and snapping into its holding notch 174 when next thrust backwardly b encounter with the ejecting block 173. l. pon the trippin r of the latch arm 226 at the completion 0 a bnttonhole producing cycle, the starting lever springs ack into starting position, the tripping arm 231 snapping ast the stud 235 without affecting the re ease lever 236.

While any suitable form of stop-motion may be employed in the present machine, one constructed in substantial accordance with that of the U. S. patent to E. B. Allen, Nd. 863,129, of August 13, 1907, is re re senbecl in the accompanying drawings. he driving pulley or belt-wheel 151 is provided in its forward face (Fig. 6) with asuhstantially cylindrical cavity 244 having a slightly prejecting segmental friction surface 245 at one side of a diameter dssing through the eccentric 149. Within t c cavity 24-1 is the body of the clutch-wheel 247 having its huh 248 fixed upon the rearward end .5 the main-shaft 5 and provided at one side with a stop-screw 249. The clutch-wheel is formed in its forward face with a segmental spring-cavity 250 having at one end a rectangular aperture 251 extending from the op osite face of the clutch-wheel, diametrica ly opposite which is a se I ental hearing cavity 202. At opposite sir es of the cavity 252 the clutch-wheel isformed with a depressed peripheral at 253 to receive a suitahl apertured clutch-plate 255.

pplied to the rearward face of the clutch-wheel 247 is the clutch-ring 256 having upon itsadjacent face/the projecting thrust-sustaining lug 254 entering the aperture 251 and diametrically opposite the same the cam projection 258 fitted within the bearing cavity 252 and having at one end of its flattened up )er face an inclined thrust shoulder 259 at apted to bear upon the inner face of the clutch-plate 255. The clutch-ring 256 is formed at one side with a peripheral notch 260 affording at one side a Jill stop-shoulder 261 and having led to thelever 266 is maintained portion of which the clutch-ring has a backwardly extending cam incline 262. A buffer-spring 263 is interposed between the lug 257 and the opposite end of the spring-cavity 250 and serves to maintain said lug seated against the end of the aperture 251 with the clutch-ring swung to one side to engage the shoulder 259 of the cam projection 258 pressed against the clutch'plate 2.35 and'the latter in. clutching engagement with the friction surface 245 of the driving wheel 151.

Fixed upon the rock-shaft 264 journaled in the bearing bracket 265 of the base 1 is the stopdever 266 having fitted within its lower portion the spring-pressed slide-block 267 formed with the lateral tooth 268. This tooth has a side face adapted to bear upon the adjacent face of the clutch'ring and a lower end face adapted to bear upon the cam rib 262, the clutch-lever being normally pressed toward the clutch-ring by means of a spring 269 interposed between the projection 266' of the stop-lever and the frame standard 2.

The rock-shaft 264 has :1 depending crankarm 270 carrying at its lower end the lateral stud-pin 271 embraced by the transversely notched end of the connecting rod 272 hav ing its opposite end pivotally connected with the swinging lever 273 which is fulcrumed upon the stud-screw 274 sustained by the machine bed. The lever 273 has secured thereon by means of the screw 27?: the tripblock 276 formed with the blunt-pointed laterally projecting nose 277 having a rear wardly and downwardly inclined side, the nose 277 being adopted under the action of the spring 269 to rest upon the outer periphery of the cam-rib 136 until it encounters the abrupt shoulder 13? when itentcrs and rests upon the bottom of the segmental cavity until forced outwardly again by on counter with the inclined shoulder 136. The connecting! rod is drawn upwardly and the pawl-bur ill drawn downwardly l) menus of an interposed spring 278 b whic 1 they are yieldingly connected toget ier.

The rearward end. oi: the rod 272 is supported in engagement with the studin 271 by means of the lateral lip 279 a flat spring 280 secured to the inner side of the cranlou'rm 270 and adapted to be pressed backwaidly to release the rod 272 by means of a push-pin 261 passing through the crank-arm and attached to said s ring.

By the means thus describe the stopnormally in stopping position under the action of its spring 269, with the nose 277 of the trip-block within the segmental cavity of the cam-ri 165, in which position of the stopdeyer the looking tooth 268 is within the peripheral notch 260 of the clutch-ring and the clutchwhcel is maintained disconnected from the driving wheel in which condition it remains until the rock-lever 266 is tilted by ngage ment of the trip-block with the cam incline 136, when the tooth 268 is retracted and the clutch-ring is permitted to swing laterally upon the cam projection 258 as a fulcrum into clutching position. The main-shaft 5 remains clutched to the driving wheel 151 until the nose of the tripblock rides oil the cam rib shoulder 13?, when under the action of the spring 269 upon the stop-lever 266 the side face of the tooth 268 rests against the rearward face of the clutch-disk and rides down the cam-incline 262' into operative relation with the eccentric cam-rib 262 which it first presses aside to force the wall of the segmental aperture therein against the stop-screw 249 to unclutch the driving and driven parts after which its further resistance to laterai yield while the driven parts continue to rotate under their mo mentum causes the lifting of the slide-block 267 until it returns to register with the notch 260 which it finally enters under the action of its spring to lock the main-shaft in initial osition.

The sli e-block 267 carries a lateral stud 282 carrying an anti-friction roller entering the inclined slot 283 in the rearward arm of a rock-lever 28-1 fulcrumed intermediate its ends upon the fixed stud'screw 285 and hav ing a forked forwardly extending arm 2S6 embracing a stud-pin 28? upon a lateral crank-arm 28B of the rock-shaft 2R9 journaled within and transversely of the base 1. Fixed upon the rock-shalt 289 is an arm 290 formed with a segmental cross-member 291 having an inclined'cam face adapted for engagement with. the stud-screw 292 projecting from a plunger-pin 293 slidingly mounted within a socket 294 sustained by the frameanember 1' and normally pressed inwardly by a spring 2923 resting against the lateral pin 293" thereon. This plunger-pin is adapted to contact with the head of the contact )in 295 :uljnstahly secured within a threaded aperture in the extension 154' of the holding arm by means of the lock-nut 296. As the stoplever slide-block 267 rises in the stopping of the main-shaft, the shaft 289 is rocked and the holding arm 154 is thereby retracted by the connections above described so as to permit the pawl-bar 141 to drop under the action ofthe spring 278 for engagement with the longer series of ratchet'teeth 130 for resumption of the rapid movement of the feed-wheel to return the work from stitching to initial cutting position and efiect thereturn semi-rotation of the stitch-forming mechanism.

Secured upon the rearward end of the slide-plate 38 by means of screws 297 is the laterally extending plate 298 provided with the upstanding triangular-shaped cam-lug 299 having oonvergently inclined cam-faces upon the innor Side. In the travel of the )Sll'. tltlllilltil for ongagoiiiont with tho, latoral arm mam the. tripping pawl 163. To insuro against the inunotliato return of tho. stiul 13;! to holding position before the initial Ilosoont of tho pawl-liar 141 from its olovatoil position preparatory to the initia tion of tho quick motion of the foeil-oam. it is rotaiuoil tomporarily in retracted position h ongagomont ol' the flat noso of tho pawl tooth 163 with that of tho arm 16L .U'tor tho pawlhar has oomo into aotiou anrl whom the quirk motion of tho work-hohlor is in progross. tho onoountor of oithor ll'l('llfli?(t fare of tho (Mil-lug 29H hy tho arm 30H of the tripping: moiuhor insuros tho tripping of tho pawl 143 5 to roloaso tho hohliug arin 15 i so as to poruiit tho tHlVHIl 'P of tho stlul lfii honoath tho liar H1 whou tho lattor is noxt liftoil sullioiontly in its oporativo ongagomont with the oontrolliiu oloniout 125i.

'l'ho huttonholo outtin; ni vhauism of too prosont niar-hino is or may ho ooustruotoil substantially in am-orilam-o with that f th Y. S. patent to E. B. Allou. No. Ll lfijniitlmi' April 13. 191.1 Tho ruttor-shal't 1TH oarriostho usual rams 2303 and 304 for oll'ortiug tho olosing of the cutting olonionts upon th work and tho oam-ilislt 30.; formoil iu ouo l'aoo with tho oalu-groovo INN; lor otl'ooting tho trawling moronionts of tho outtor hotwoon i'otrartorl and outting positions. It has also tixoil upon its front oml tho disk 3 worrying a ."springqirosotl rarlially mov ahlo sliilo-hlook 303 having' a olutoh-ti'ioth PM!) For ongagomont with suitahlo rlutohtooth upon tho looso holt-whool 1T1. tho oon trol of this olut h-tuoth hoing oll'oottal hy moans of tho swinging lovor 2H0 l'ul rumotl upon the base at 311 and formotl at its froo onil with tho ram-plate 312 ooiiporating with said olutoh-lu; in ofl'ooting tho oonnootion and tlisoonneotion of tho outtor-shalt with tho holt-whool 171 for a singlo rotation olilv.

Tho oams 303 and 304 are adapted for onagomont with the upper and luwor cutterlorors 313 aotl 314 which are mounted upon tho fulorum pin 315 sustained by: the slideplate 316. said lovers being maintainod in ongzagzomont with their respective cams hy moans of thosprintr 317. Tho upper cuttorlovor has ilotaohahly socurorl in its forward arm ono outtor-hlook or anvil ill of an intorohangzoahlo sorios of suoh hlnoks of (lifforont longlths. and tho forwarrl arm of tho lowor outtonlovor oarrios a siilowiso shiftahlo holrlor H9 in whioh aro soourod the oyotl cutting knito 5120 and tho straight liltltlHl cutting knife 32] oat-h adapted to replaoo tho othor in cutting rolation with on: of tho ilmlts 31H. Tho fuloi'uiiomnyin; tillllt 'llllltt' ilo has oonnootoil thorouith ouo oiul of the link-liar 522 harin; its opposito oiul \'olto|l to onilu'aoo tho outtor-shal't E7 aiul proriiloel with a rollor-stuil ilzi l onto-n iug: tho oaui-groovo Pail of tho \lisk W3 fr m whirl] tho rotting ilovioo llorii'os its trawl ing movomonts tUWItl'tl and from rotting position. i

Fixwl upon tho loml-whool shaft in is a lisk fril proriiloil with a tripping point 325 allaptoil to ongago ouo oiul of tho tl'llrltHI 3:345 whioh is l'ulorunual iutoriuoiliato its oiuls upon tho sturl-sorow 322T aml has its opposito oml normally in trippin; rolation with :1 depending oxtonsion 31 1' of tho outtor-oontrollin; lovor 31". As tho food-whool shal't noars the owl of a ooiuploto rotation rorros onling with a luittonholo proiluoing o voh-.'tlio trippiu; point 125 ongagos tho lovor 32h aiul thorohy otloots tho lutt'h-roloasin; inovouiont of tho ronti'ollin loror Il whorohy tho outtor-sha ft is givou an oporatiro rotation l'or ollwting tho oporation of tho outtin; ilovioo to out tho proi'iously stit lu-(l huttonholo mill for a luatiu: rortain othor parts. Tho trippin; poiul IrJ-i harin; passoil tho loror 326. tho lattor rollll'lltll to initial position hr moan of tho spring: 32

'lho lmor 'Lti is shown proriiloil in its uppoi' l u uith a (ltillilltl\\tl in Wlllk'l! is littoil tho alhiiilg tripioil t hav ng its roarwaiwl oiui pivotallr ronuoototl with tho throw-out h-Yor W" whh'h' has its lath ilili t'uh-rmuwl upon zho l'ooil whool shalt amt lil'tliitliii with a poriphoral notoh 2 1; for ongagomont with th top-pin H33 sustainoil lvy tho haso to limit its movouu-nt.

To the throwout loror $53! is pivotaily ('Ullllttltti (mo 'lol ot' a link 1M4 having its opposito oiui t' liliit 'tl'll with tho upwardly oxtoniling arm H5 oi an anglo lovor fult'l'llfllt l upon tho rook-shaft ll?! aiul harin a haolcwarill aiul upwardly oiuw'oil arm .l ll'i whoso uppor illltl t ru'ariltv oxt iuiingg oxtroiuity is allaptml to ongago tho iau-ral. oxtousiou 12% of tho latolrariu 1: 3. Tho link 3134 is normally ilraa'u haoltwaoil r lay moans of tho spring: 32%? ooiuwotiiu: tho sumo with a stud upon tho lmso i whorl-lay tho throwout lovor 33H is iohliugly inainti-iino l with ono oml of its poriphoral non-h 11%; in on gagzomout with tho stoppin i13 ni -l (ho triorotl 32.). oonstitutiug: an ouilui morahe sot-lion of tho lovor 32 is in :ritiio relation with tho routrolling l w-r xto sion 31o (Fig.1). l

Whon it is ilosiroil to prop tho pornial operation of tho ruttiur l in-o. as in tho. oaso of lu'oaltagjo oi tho \hroail or other oonilitions uniior whioh tho outtin; of a huttonhol slit is not ilosiroil. tho throw-out lovor Wi is manually ilrawn forward,

fill

ltlt" with the operative-edge to"hjet-t?the;round-nosed tooth 360 thereby retracting the end of the trip-rod 329 from operative relation with the controlling lever extension 310', tripping of the lever 326 is effect the clutching of the cutting mechanism with the belt-wheel 171. At the same time, the lever-arm 336 is advaneettto trip the latch'arm 226, thereby permitting the restoration of the starting lever 218-219 to initial position in readiness for actuation to initiate a succeeding buttonholeproducmg operation.

Fixed uponone of the clamp-operatmg rock-shafts 46, and preferably formed 1ntegral 'with the tappet-arnrfii, is a second tappet-arm 338 which, when the workholder is closed upon the work, lies in the path of movement of the end of a springretracted trip-rod 339 having its ad acent end portion journaled in an apertured lug 340 upon a supporting arm 341 sustained by the frame. The 'oppositeend of this triprod 339 is pivotally connected with the up wardly extending arm 342 of a bell crank fulcrumed upon the fixed stud-screw 34-3 and having a rearwardly extending arm 344- sustaining the stud 345 oarrying the antitriction roller 346 adapted for engagement of a ram-plate 347 which is secured to the fare of the ram disk 305. v i Mounted upon a lateral arm 343 of a lug 349 risin from the arm rover-plate 350 is a tension evice of wellknown form, com prising the separable 351 normally pressed whereby the together by means of the 5 ring 352' whose tension is adapted to he re ieved from saidJlisks by means of the axial pin 3333. Overlying the free end of the pin 353 is the ram-fared head 3 54 ofa push-bar 355 slotted in its upper portion to embrace the guide screw-pin 3.10 and having an enlarged base 3.37 with ram-sha )ed lower and rearward edge. The bar 35- is normally drawn downwardly and forwardly by means of a spring 353 connecting it with a pin 35!) upon the standard '2, whereby it is normally maintained in (on tact with the side of the hub 165' of the wank-arm 165, and a tooth 3360 upon the. adjacent edge of the bar 355 is adapted to be introduced into a detent notch 165" of the hub 165 when the arm 165 isin normal position. '7'

'hen the stitch-forming mechanism is at re t. the 'head 354 of the bar 355 operailirely engages the end of the release-pin 353 and relieves the pressure of the spring 352 upon the tension disks, but in the initial 0peratireqnove ment of the"swinging arm 165, its detentsrieteh lfifi. arts as a cam element whereby the spring 358 is reused. to draw the release bar 355 into lower orreleasing position, wherein the notch in the inner or operative ineffective t0 threarlel=unping disks needle in ,pending arm 371 of face of its head 354 (Fig. (3) will come into register with the release pin 3353. lo the opening of the work-clamp by engagement of the trip-rod 335) with the tapprt-arrn 338, the rorking of the belh-rank H2 3-H muses the engagement of the stud 3+3 with the base 357 of the release bar 355, and lifts the name into operative engagement with. the release pin 353 in whivh position it is looked by entranse of the tooth 1W! into the deteut notrh 165".

Depending from the arm rover-plate 35H is a well 361 having in its bottom a transverse slot to rereiro the upper side of a ('()]Il])0llIHl take-up rain comprising spaced disks 3152 fixed upon the tubular shaft or sleeve 15. livotally mounted within a transverse rhaum-l ol' the rover-plate 350 by means of a pm 3433 is a t'l'()HS-lHll' 364 rarrying the depending arms 33? formed with tliroudryrs at their lower ends and embraring the lake-up ram-disks. The i'rossdml' sustains also a depending plate 366 entering the spare intermwlialu the take-up disks 362 and provided with llH rurred thread-guiding slot 367 of whirh the lower end terminates in register with the tlireadeyes ol' the arms 36?. The bar 364 is normally maintained in operative posi- (ion l) means of the spring 36 (l 'igs. l. 3 and 2 The take-up disks 3132 tour. uni-h being formed upon sides of ilsaxis of uioreuwnt with active edge portiousat dill'erent distanres from sin-h axis. The inner edges of these disks. or those nearest the axis, art upon the needle-thread passing through the guideivesoi' thearms ififi in the cooperation of the non-threadial looper and spreader with the needle in a greater degreethan the opposite edges ill the slu'rem'ling reoipl' r'atimi of the roiiperatiou with the threaded looper. Theobjeot of this is to :H'PUTIIHIU- date the takwup tothe slightly different (pnditions involved a: rnately arting loopt:1klng deviros oi dill'ereut rhararter. so as to sewure the at most ellieienry iu the control oi' the needle thread in its.manipulation by the looptaking elements under all conditions.

The tubular shaft 15 is shown having se- 311' of similar roua (aired thereon the cam-disk 36.) peripherally engaging the rollerst11d 3T0 upon the de- 7 a ['(K'k lever fuh-runied upon the pin 372 within a slot of the roverplate 350 and having an upwardly extend mg arm rarrylng a mutant sr-rew-pin 3Y3 adapted for engagement with aplunger-pin 374 of a needle-thrad nipping devmo1" welhknown form.

s indicated in Figs. 2, 4 and 6, the roan ward side of the housing recess in the base is iosed by means of a door 375 recessed upon its inner side and mounted at its lower opposite ill) Iii!

edge upon the pivotal stud-srrews 157i; 5 a\ to swing outwardly to expose the park within suoh reress. being held in closed position by means of the detent spring iii. laeeing lengthwise through thi door are the threadgniding tuhes 31 for iliir-iii ir ing lll'. tower stitching thread and the gimp to the forward end of the machine from whit-h the are led to the loop-taking met-in I arm beneath the hwhplate.

As represented in Figs. 1 to T of the dean age, the iarious operative parts of the nor rhine are in the positions which the) asau ne at the rompletion of a lmttonhoh: produeing (-yele and in. readiness for a sueeeeding ryrie. The drawing down of the treadle rod 2% rocks the starting lever 5315- 219. which retained in running position by HLQEU1 ol' the spring-pressed latch-arm 226. In its operative movement. the starting lever carries the tripping arm E231 against the, stud $235. thereby tilting the release lever into en gagement with the stop-pin 241 and ltwking the lateh-ierer to the still moving starting lever; whereby the lntrh-tooth 242 is disengigod from the plunger-pin iii and tin lat ter released for engagement with the elaniprinsing ram-groove 172. The several elements referred to remain lurked together in extreme position under the detaining aetion oi the latch-arm 226while the phiral-arnwd (lamp-closing lever performs. its operative movement, in the course of nhirh th em counter of the inwardly projecting artion of the plunger-pin 174 with the tail of the release lever 23f tilts the latter upon ila rasperrtire fuierutn and therehy shift the stud 235 beyond the outer extremity of the tripping .irm 2 3i and releases the lateh-lerer 2% whit-h. under the action of its spring.

: Hlil!]t. woolen-t relation with the aide of the lunger-pin iii and snaps into the nutrh of ii. latt r upon its, eievtion from the rain- :nm n: or the hlo 'k 1. 5

The il-i'r int oi the lev r-arm i7? operate i-iiliillll, to rinse the (lamp Wililll is spread in the return movement of the depending lt'\ll-itl'!tl 17*. as before desrriiwri. l ver-arm 1T0 wrt'orms its brand-fro i-lamplosing and spreading movements. the cross- :'-thal't 1W3 i rorlted through the huh and wank-arm ronni-rtion 1H. 21:1. to impart to the tripping pawl hurrying arm to? its idle forward and p rative ha ltwtard movement a". the eomphi on of ihi h the pawl H3 retina-is and lW' F the holding arm 154 in its outer 'isition erein the stud 1-32 is disengagt-d from the fiflfitlllitl) reeiprorating pan har Hi whith is thus permitted to :1. WITH operative relation with the shorter ri i pawl-teeth I30.

I the controlling wheel 129 performs tin initial stage of its ii.L'})"lI V-5t[) rotary morn-ant in coinniunieating to the feedwheel its preliminary accelerated movement its the-V to shift the work-hohler from cutting In stitrhing position, the forward invlined far of the running 291' llit' lillliti'r and thrusts aside the arm :aoo, (ht-rah lifting the arm iitlfl whose engagement with the arm 1H2! ot the tripping pawl serves to disengage the hitter from the member 161 of the holding arm and permits the latter, under the action of its spring. to rarry the stud 152 into eontaet with the side fare of the pawl-bar lit and to snap heneath the same when the pawhhar is next lifted sutiieiently by en gagement of its nose with the incline 133 of the controlling wheel.

Just prior to this tlltltbn the nose 277 of the tripping hlock 2T6 rides up the inclined shoulder 13 of the ram-rib 135 for etl'erting aetuation of the stop-motion, thereby initiat ng the stitching and normal work-feeding perations which eontinne until the nUbt' 2T? rides off the shoulder 13? to terminate the stitching and \\'orl(-feedil]g operations. \s the slide-block 267 of the stop-motion devil-e rises under the action of die (ram 262. the ram element 291 acts through the elesvriiual (-onnet'tions to thrust outwardly the plungerpin 293 and thereby retract the holding arm no for disengagement of the roller-stud 15'. from the pawl-liar l-ll. therein permitting the hitter to resume engagement with the longer series of ratvlietieeth l il ot' the von troiiing wheel l2 whivh arts. as in the ini' tial stage of the rycle. to impart an ai'relerated movement to the feed-wheel in returning the work-holder to initial position. in the HHH'SE of whii'h the rearward fare of the running 299 eneounters the arm 301) and vausr-s the release of the holding arm 154 for final engagement of the pawl-haiunder the :u-tion of its spring at the vompletitpi of the hnttonholw]iro hwing ryi'h'.

Just as the l vediwln-el shaft is vomplet ing a rotation, the tripping point 325 of the disk 324' engages the trip leve-r Iiili whit-h f lliftfi the (Hit01rrmT 'uliihg lever il and initiates the roupling of the cutter-shaft with the ltuist halt-wheel 171 for effecting the cutting operation whit-h is produred hy the means he't'ore dearrihed. As the rutting elements retir a fter a huttonhole euttiiig artion. the ram Al i arts upon the triprod 211 to lire-ah the vianip-spreading toggha and at suhstantially.the same time the ramplate &4; enrounters the stud 345 which arts upon the Lappvbarm 3 in through the de i'rih d corm ions to open the work-holder, while tin engagement of the ml 345 with the tension release bar 355 acts to open the l1(.('fllt'-iltl't*tlll tension derive \Vllll'll remains open by engagement of the tooth 361') with the detent nott'h 165" until the starting mechanism is again operated.

One of the many practical advantages of the present machine. as thus deserihed, is the areeeaihility of the moving parts, and

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particularly those which are liable to require more or less. attention, substantially all of which are so disposed that they may be reached without turning over the machine frame. 'hile the various features of construction and arrangement are herein represented in their preferred embodiments, it will be readily understood that. they may be greatly modified within the scope of the present invention.

It will be observed that the function of the set of interchangeable pattern or controlling wheels, as hereinbefore described, is to adapt a given machine, without adjustments dependent upon theskill of an attendant, to produce buttonholes of different contours, which mav involve either variations in length or in the character of the ends (as by provision or omission of eyelet ends). or both; each of such interchangeable wheels being designed to effect the control of the machine to produce bnttonholes having one of the desired contours. It is evident that the present invention includes within its scope mechanism including a controlling wheel or element provided in itself with means acting directly to effect a variation in the normal relative travel between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work, as disclosed, for instance, in my pending application Serial No. 175L139, filed July 7, uni. 7

llaving thus set. forth the nature of the .nvention, what I claim herein is:-

l. In a buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitclrforming instrumentalities, a work-holder, a. sewing shaft and driving connections for actuating thestitcht'orming instrnnientalities and for relatively feeding the latter and the worlz-holder to sew around a buttonl'lolc. and a removable feed-controlling element distinct from and coiipcratiug with said driving connections for production of a buttonhole of a given contour and replaceable by a dilferent controlling element adapted to coact with said driving connections for production of a buttonholc of different contour.

2. In a buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work-holder, feeding mechanism including an actuating element and a follower therefor for producing between the stitcl'rforming mechanism and the worlcholder relative feeding movements in a defined path in cooperation of the work-holder with the stitcht'orming mechanism during a stitching period, and a controlling element normally connected with said feeding mechanism for determining the range of said relative feeding movements and replaceable by another controlling element without change of the cooperative relation of the actuating and follower element of the feeding for effecting variation in said range of mechanism 4 movement in the cooperation of the work? holder with the stitch-forming mechanism.

3. In a lmttonhole sewing machine, in combination, feeding feeding movements between the stitchforming mechanism and the work and com-- prising an actuating member and a follower sustained in permanent cooperative relation therewith and means for im arting to said member in consecutive periods relatively slow and rapid operative movements, and a removable controlling element for controlling the relative len and replaceable by a ifi'erent controlling element for changing the relative lengths of said periods.

4. In a huttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, ar mating means therefor, coupling means for effecting the connection and disconnection of the stitch-firming mechanism and its actuating means, and means including a removable controlling element for determining the timing of said connection and disconnection and replaceable by a different controlling element for changing said timing.

5. In a bnttonhole sewing machine. in

combination," stitch -forming mechanism, feeding meclfanism including a feed-Wheel, and a follower sustained in permanent cooperative relation therewith, and actuating means for said feed-wheel acting during the period of operation of the stitchforming mechanism, and a controlling element for said actuating means normally partaking of the movements of said feedwheel and replaceable by a different 'c'ontroL ling element for changing the period of action of said actuating means upon the feed-wheel.

6. In a huttonhole sewin a machine, in combination. stitch-forming mechanism, feeding mechanism including a feedovheel and a follower sustained in permanent cooperative relation therewith, actuating means for said feed-wheel,'and means ineluding a removable controlling element acting upon said actuating meansto determine the period of action of said mechanism and replaceable by a different controlling element for changing said period of action.

7. In a buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming" mechanism and feeding mechanism for producing relative feeding movements between the stitchforming mechanism and the .vork and comprising a feed-wheel and means permanently connected therewith for imparting thereto operative movements during stitching periods and means for imparting thereto further movements intbrmediate stitchin periods, and a removable. controlling element for determining "the relative periods ths of said periods.

stitch forming mechanism, mechamsm for producing relative

Images