US1327191A - Method of sewing on garment-hooks - Google Patents

Description

J. BLASI. METHOD FOR SEWING 0N GARMENT HOOKS.

APPLICATION FILED MAY .8. 1918.

Patented Jan. 6', 1920.

2 SHEETSSHEET l,

WITN ESSES ATTORNEY J/BLASIQ METHOD FOR SE W|NG 0N GARMENT HOOKS.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 8. l9l8.'

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JOSEPH BLASI, OF BROOKLYN, NEVI YORK, ASSIGNOR TO THE SINGER MANUFACTURING COMPANY, A GORPORALION OF NEW JERSEY.

METHOD OF SEWING ON GARMENT-HOOKS.

Patented Jane, 1920.

Application filed May 8, 1918. Serial No. 233,307.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, J osnrrr BLASI, a citizen of the United States, residing at Brooklyn, in the county of Kings and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Methods of Sewing on Garment-Hooks, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

This invention relates to hook-and-eye closures for garments or other articles made of fabric material and has for an object to provide an improved method of attaching garment-hooks to fabric material in which the necessity for hand-sewing operations has been eliminated and which will produce a closure having a neat and finished appearance in much less time than is required to produce similar closures heretofore known.

In producing hook-and-eye closures for military coat collars for example, it has heretofore been the practice to sew a pair of hooks to the face of the neck-contacting ply at one end of the collar and subsequently sew on a piece of tape by hand to cover or conceal the shanks of the hooks. In some cases the shanks of the hooks have been inserted between the plies constituting the collar with the bills of the hooks overhanging the end of the inner ply. When this is done, however, it is necessary to close the end of the collar by a hand stitching operation for the reason that the inwardly directed hookbills interfere with the formation by a sewing machine of a line of stitches closing the end of the collar. The necessity for hand stitching in producing finished closures of the class described greatly slows up production and adds to the cost of manufacture.

The present invention overcomes the necessity for hand sewing by utilizing unbent garment-hooks, that is, hook-blanks the bill-forming portions of which have not been bent into the usual position overhanging the hook-shanks. In practising the invention in connection with the production of military coat-collars, the shank or eyed end of an unbent garment-hook is first positioned between two superposed plies of body-fabric material at one end of the collar with the bill-forming end of the unbent hook projecting beyond the end of the inner or neckcontacting ply. In so positioning the unbent hook it may first be stitched to one of the plies on a sewing machine adapted to form a group of tacking stitches; a machine of this type being disclosed for example in the application of W. L. Barron & W. D. Michener, Serial No. 233,302 filed herewith. The other ply of material going to make up the collar may then be folded or placed over the hook-shank so that the latter will be positioned between the outer and inner plies. The end of the collar is then presented to a sewing machine and a line of stitches preferably of a straightaway character is formed closing and neatly finishing the collar. After this operation the projecting or bill-forming portion of the hook is bent inwardly to final position overhanging the line of machine made stitches which closes the end of the collar. The usual eye complementary to the hook is secured between the plies at the opposite end of the collar.

In the accompanying drawings, Figures 1 and 2 illustrate a step preliminary to the positioning ment-hook between the superposed plies of fabric constituting a military coat collar. Figs. 3 and 4 illustrate the manner of attaching the complementary eyes. Fig. 5 shows the collar with one of its plies secured to the coat body. Fig. 6 illustrates the step of closing the end of the collar on an ordinary sewing machine. Fig. 7 shows the hook end of the collar after the hooks have been bent to final position. Fig. 8 illustrates the line of machine made stitches which closes the end of the collar; the shank of an unbent garment-hook being shown in section. Fig. finished collar; one corner of the outer ply having been ripped back to expose the shanks of the hooks. Fig 10 illustrates the invention in utilizing spaced groups of tacking stitches.

hile the present method is of value in the manufacture of various articles of wearing apparel, &c., it is disclosed herein as applied to the manufacture of military coatcollars, the ends of which are provided with a hook-and-eye closure. In the manufacture of such a collar the edges of a neck-contacting ply of material 1 are folded about and stitched to a reinforcing strip 2 and an outer ply of material 3 is secured along one infolded edge 4: to an edge 5 of the reinforced neck-contacting ply by a line of stitches 6.

of the shank of an unbent gar- 9 illustrates the At the ends of the collar the ply 1 is folded inwardly at 7 and stitched to position about the end of the stiffening strip.

One or more unbent garment-hooks 8 are then secured in position against the exposed face of the stiffening strip at one end of the collar by a group or groups of fastening stitches 8; the bill-forming portion of the hook or hooks projecting beyond the end of the collar, as shown in Fig. 2. This operation is preferably performed on a suitable machine adapted for the purpose, as for example, the machine disclosed in the said Barron &. Michener application. The eyes 9 are similarly attached to the other end of the collar, except that the tip-ends of the eyes, project little, if any, beyond the end of the collar. The marginal portion 10 of the ply 3 is next stitched at 11 to the upper edge 12 of the coat body A and the collar is folded upwardly about the line of stitches 11 into the position shown in Fig. 5. The collar is then presented to an ordinary sewing machine having the usual presser-foot 13 and stitch-forming mechanism including the reciprocating needle 14 which is adapted to form along the dotted line 15 a series of keyed threadloop structures 16 constitutmg a line of preferably straightaway lockstitches 16, thus closing the end of the collar with a minimum loss of time. When the point 17 is reached the work is turned and the stitching continued along the dotted line 18 to secure the plies 1 and 3 together and to the coatbody, as shown in Fig. 7.

In stitching along the line 15 it will be noted that there are no overhanging hookbills to impede the passage of the work under the resser-foot or interfere with the correct formation of the stitches. In practice, it is desirable to stop the machine momentarily as each hook is'reached and by slight manual manipulation of the work to place a stitch between the two parallel wires forming the shank of the unbent hook it.

After the ends of the collar have been closed and the stitching completed, the projecting bills of the unbent-h0oks h are bent back into overhanging relation with the stitches 16, as shown in Fig. 7, thus c0mpleting the collar.

It will be noted that since the hooks and eyes are attached to that face of the fabric from which the needle emerges in its penetrative. thrust, those sides of the groups of tacking stitches at which the out thread ends,

' .burred needle-holes, &c., appear, are positioned adjacent the shanks of the hooks and eyes and are concealed by the outer ply 3 of the collar. Thus the groups 8 of fastening stitches present a neat and finished appearance at the neck-contacting face of the collar.

It will be understood that in positioning the: shank of an unbent garment-hook behook-bill or, in other tween the plies of fabric it is not necessary that it be first stitched to one of said plies. In addition to serving as means for securing the plies l and 3 together at the end of the collar, the stitches 16 serve as means for securing the shank of the garment-hook to body-fabric material at a point beneath the words, within the throat of the hook, thereby preventing twisting or turning of the hook about the stitches 8 which secure the stitch-receiving eyes of the hook to the fabric. Those stitches of the line 16 which span or embrace the shank of the hook may obviously be replaced by a group of superposed tacking stitches 16 as illustrated in Fig. 10 or by a succession of stitches embracing the hook-shank in any other suitable arrangement. The stitches 16, 16', or the like,-may be readily formed about the shank of the hook either by machine or by hand before the bill is bent to final position, whereas it is a difiicult and time consuming operation to form such stitches within the throat of a previously bent garment-hook on account of the interference of the overhanging hook-bill to the placing and drawing up of the stitches.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, What I claim herein is- 1. The method of attaching a garmenthook to body-fabri material which consists, in positioning the shank of an unbent garment-hook between superposed plies of fabric So that the bill-forming portion of the hook projects beyond anedge of at least one of said plies, presenting said superposed plies of fabric to a sewing machine to form a line of machine made stitches joining said plies along said edge, and lastly bending the bill-forming portion of the hook about the edge of one of said plies and into overhanging relation with said line of stitches.

2. The method of attaching garmenthooks to fabric material Which consists; first, in placing the shank of an unbent garment-hook against one face of a first ply of fabric material with the bill-forming portion of said hook projecting beyond an edge of said ply; second, in passing fastening stitches first through the material and then through the eyes of the hook, whereby the stitching will present a finished appearance at the face of the first ply of material opposite that to which the hook is attached; third, in covering the shank of the hook by a second ply of material and stitching said plies together along the edge of the first ply beyond which the hook-bill projects; and fourth, in bending the bill-forming portion of the hook about said edge and into overhanging relation with said first ply of material.

3. The'method of attaching hook and eye closures to military-coat collars which consists, first, in sewing unbent hooks and C0111? plemental eyes, respectively, to the outer surface at the opposite ends of a reinforced neck-contacting ply of material having a form of a collar-blank, second, in securing an outer collar-blank ply to position adjacent the outer face of the neck-contacting ply by straightaway stitching, and third, in bending the hook-bills inwardly to final position overhanging the inner face of the neck-contacting ply.

4. An article of wearing apparel comprising a plurality of superposed inner and outer plies of material, a garment-hook disposed hetween said plies of material and having its sewing eyes secured to the inner ply and free from attachment to the outer ply, the bill of said hook being disposed in overhanging relation with the edge-portion of the inner of said plies, and a line of stitches including a series of keyed threadloop structures securing said plies together along said edge-portions, said hook-bill overhanging said line of stitches.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

JOSEPH BLASI.

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