US1307174A - Welt foe boots and shoes - Google Patents

Description

' W. B. ARNOLD. WELT FOR BOOTS AND SHOES. APPLICATION FILED DEC.26. 191s. RENEWED NOV. 15,1917.

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Patented June 17, 1919.

WILLIAM B. ARNOLD, OF NORTH ABINGTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

WELT FOR BOOTS AND SHOES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed December 26, 1916, Serial No. 138,719. Renewed November 15, 1917. Serial No. 202,243.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that 1, WILLIAM B. ARNOLD. a citizen of the United States, residing at North Abington, in the county of Plymouth and State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in lVelts for Boots and Shoes, of which the following description. in connection with the accompanying lrawings, is a specification, like characters on the drawings representing like parts.

The invention to be hereinafter described relates to welts for boots and shoes.

The welt is essentially in the form of a narrow strip and the inseam stitching must be closely adjacent the inner edge of the welt, but yet a sufficient distance from said edge to leave enough stock to prevent the stitching from pulling or tearing through the marginal leather. Consequently the leather used in making welts must be strong, tough, high grade material able reliably to bear heavy duty of holding the upper to the sole.

The high cost of the grade of leather used for welts renders it important to employ as small an amount of leather therein as practicable without sacrifice of necessary strength. Obviously, a slight saving in material in the welts for a pair of shoes multiplies into a big economy.

One of the objects of the present invention is to provide a welt requiring less material and having greater strength than welts heretofore used. Another object is to increase the amount of welt material between the inseam stitching and the inner edge of the welt, without increasing the material required in the welt. Another object is to greatly reduce, if not entirely eliminate the Waste of welt material in trimming the edges of the inn-er sole flange, the upper and its lining. And still another object of the invention is to so cut the welt from stock that the outer edge will have a chamfer prior to the rounding operation which will substantially reduce loss of welt stock in said operation.

The character of the invention may be best understood by reference to the following description of an embodiment illustrating, the same shown in the accompanying drawing, wherein.

Figure 1 is a transverse vertical section through a portion of an upper, its lining, inner sole and welt illustrating the inven tion, showing the parts as they appear prior to trimming of the upper and its lining;

Fig. 2 is a view similar to Fig. 1 showing the parts as they appear after the trimming and beating out operation;

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of a portion of a welt strip as it appears prior to formation of the stitch receiving groove therein;

Fig. 4 is a view similar to Fig. 3 of the welt strip as it appears after said groove has been formed therein;

Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the completed welt;

Fig. 6 is a transverse section through the welt shown in Fig. 5;

Fig. 7 is a similar transverse section of a modification of the welt; and

Fig. 8 is a vertical transverse section; through a completed shoe equipped with a welt embodying the invention.

Referring to the drawings the welt shown therein as illustrating the invention may be formed by slitting a strip 1 (Fig. 3) from stock obliquely to the face of the stock thereby producing inner and outer bevel edges 3 and 5. Then the inner seam stitch receiving groove may be formed therein. In the present instance of the invention to accomplish this a slit 7 (Fig. 4) of substantial depth may be out in the strip closely adj acent and if desired parallel to the inner bevel edge 3, thereby forming a lip 9. This lip may then be bent outward and backward (Figs. 5 and 6) so that its outer face 11 is turned over upon the bevel edge 3 of the strip.

Thus the width of welt stock between the groove and the inner edge of the welt is substantiallv doubled and a strong shoulder 15 is provided which will effectively resist tearin of the stitching through the stock. It Will be noted the groove is formed without removal of stock from the strip, and that the material which is spread outward to open the groove, instead of being lost, is utiFzed to contribute to the strength of the we t.

Having described the construction of the welt, its application to a shoe will now be described with more particular reference to Figs. 1 and 2, wherein is shown an inner sole 17 having a stitch receiving and retaining flange or shoulder 19 terminating in a lip 21 which forms a continuation of the feather edge 22 of said sole. The edge portions of the upper 23 and its lining 24: are laid in the recess formed by said lip and feather edge, and are bent inward to conform to said recess.

The welt is then presented to the upper with the margin 25 of its grain face against said upper, and the inner sole, upper, its lining and the welt are stitched securely together with the stitches 27 embracing the inner sole flange 19 and welt shoulder 15.

The slit in-the welt receiving the stitching permits the welt stock between the'stitching and the upper to readily bend laterally to allow the body of the welt to lie substantially in the same plane as the inner sole as will be noted in Fig. 1, but said stock will not project out materially from the face of the body of the welt. Consequently the edges of the upper its lining and the inner sole flange may be readily trimmed (Fig. 2) snbstantially without removal of stock from the welt.

After beating out the welt in the usual way a filler 29 (Fig. 8) is laid on the inner sole within the boundary of the welt, and the latter is stitched to the outer sole 31 as will be noted in Fig. 8. j

The narrow margin of the outer bevel or chamfer edge5 projecting slightly beyond the outer sole is then trimmed off-and the edges of the welt 1 and outer sole are rounded. Heretofore it has been necessary to skive off a portion of the outer edge of the Welt in the finishing operation; but since the welt strip is beveled in severing the same from stock, there is no loss of welt stock in producing this bevel, and again a further saving'in the welt stock is obtained.

In some cases in making the welt the lip 9 turned over against the outer bevel edge 5 may be cemented thereto as at 33 (Fig. 7) if desired, althoughthis is not in dispensable as the presence of the stitching in the groove and the engagement 'of the outer sole with said lip tend to maintain the latter in its proper turned over position.

The welt may-be easily manufactured in long strips which may be cut into appropriate lengths for the shoes as required.

The angle ofthe inner edge with respect to the faces of the welt may obviously be varied according to conditions as desired.

By the invention described it will be apparent that the eifective width of the welt is increased without increase inthe width of Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents eachyby addressing the Commissioner material required for making the welt As a result less material is required to produce a welt of the necessary strength than heretofore employecL-and'a valuable saving in the high grade expensive leather used for welts is obtained.

'It will be understood that the invention is not limited'to the specific forms'shown, but extensive deviations may be made therefrom without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined in the appended claims.

VVhat is claimed is:

1. A welt comprising a body having an inner bevel edge and a lip slitted from said body adjacent said edge turned over toward said edge and forming an inner seam groove and a stitch resisting shoulder.

2. A welt comprising a body'having inner and outer bevel edges and a lip adjacent said inner edge turned over toward the latter and forming an inner-seam groove and a stitch resisting shoulder.

3. A welt comprising a body having a lip adjacent the inner edge thereof turnedover toward said edge and forming a stitch receiving groove and a stitch resisting shoulder.

4. A welt comprising a body having a marginal portion doubled over and forming an inner seam groove and a substantial stitch resisting shoulder between said. groove and the inner edge of said body.

5. A welt comprising a body having a marginal portion turned over toward an edge thereof and forming an inner seam groove and a stitch resistingzshoulder sub stantially as thick as the body of the welt.

6. A welt comprising a body having a bevel edge with a longitudinal marginal portion turned over toward said edge for increasing the effective width. of the welt.

7. A welt comprising a body having a longitudinal lip adjacent an edge thereof turned over and secured to said edge and forming a stitch receiving groove.

8. A welt comprising a body having a longitudinal groove adjacent an edge thereof and a portion between said groove and edge turned over toward a face of said body to present a substantialshoulder between said groove and edge.

In testimony whereof, I have signed'my name to this specification.

WILLIAMB. ARNOLD.

of Patents,

Washington, D. G.

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