US1291506A - Brilliant. - Google Patents

Description

S. HELLER.

BRILLIANT.

APPLICATION FILED MAR-2.1916.

Patented Jan. 14, 1919.

Inventor:

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"omen SAMUEL HELLER, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

BRILLIANT.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Jan. 14, 1919.

Application filed March 2. 1916. Serial No. 81.606.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, SAMUEL HELLER, a citizen of the United States, residing at the borough of Manhattan, in the city, county, and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Brilliants, of which the following a. specification, reference being had therein to the ac companying drawings, which form a part thereof.

My invention relates to brilliants having a special crown cutting and finish for the purpose of securing certain novel efiects and is applicable to precious, semi-precious, synthetic or imitation stones.

In the production of brilliants, and by this term transparent or semi-transparent gems, either genuine, synthetic or imitation are meant, the diamond cutters and lapidaries efforts have been limited heretofore to the cutting and polishing of the stone in a manner to secure the desired brilliancy, or the desired chromatic values. There are many well known styles of cuts, each of which has its particular value, or desirable characteristics, but all of these styles have for their object the production of the maximum scintillations or fiashings of light in particular stones. All cuttings have certain well defined desi ns, or geometrical forms, and the main ob ect of my invention is to produce a brilliant, the cutting of which may correspond with any of the well known styles of cutting, while the effect of this cutting will be modified by a special finish in the gem in a manner to combine brilliancy therein, with a certain novel effect which I have termed a dull finish.

In this specification the term brilliant is used in the sense in which it is employed in the art to which this invention relates, which is a precious or semi-precious stone, or imitation thereof, which is transparent,

' semi-transparent, or translucent, and which is so cut, ground and polished, or burnished, as to form a crown above and a pavilion be low a girdle, with facets so formed and arranged as to reflect and refract light rays, to secure brilliancy and chromatic values in the stone, and to cause the stone to scintillate and flash.

This effect is secured, by providing a gem having a crown and a pavilion wherein the pavilion facets are so cut and finished as to secure the desired brilliancy, and a portion of the crown facets are polished to render them transparent or semi-transparent, while other of the crown facets are so finished as to make them opaque or semi-opaque, such last named facets forming a design which will be embodied in the general design of the cutting of the gem in a manner to secure a most pleasing and novel .efiect.

The invention consists primarily in a brilliant having a pavilion, provided with facets so finished as to givebrilliancy to the gem and a crown provided with a group of bright facets and a group of dull facets whereby the said crown has therein two blended designs, oneof them formed of said bright facets, and the other of said dull facets; and in such other novel features and characteristics as are hereinafter set forth and described and more particularly pointed out in the claims hereto appended.

Referring to the drawings Figure 1 is a plan view of a gem embodying my invention shown on a very much enlarged scale; and

Fig. 2 is a side elevation thereof.

Like letters refer to like parts in both views.

I In the embodiment of my invention shown in the drawings, I have illustrated it in corn nection with a gem having a circulargirdle and a particular cutting both asto the crown and as to the pavilion. This showing, however, is merely for the purpose of illustrating a particular gem embodying-the invention, the invention itself being applicable to various cuttings both as to the crown and as to the pavilion, and is in no way limited to a gem having any particular shape of girdle.

In the form of the invention shown, the crown of the gem is indicated at a and the pavilion at b, the girdle being at c. The pavilion b is provided with a plurality of cut and polished facets d, the configuration of which will vary according to the depth or breadth of the stone, and with the configuration of the girdle. In fact, the size, number or arrangement of the pavilion cuttings is immaterial to this invention and it is also immaterial whether or not said pavilion is provided with a backing to add luster or brilliancy to the stone, which is a practice sometimes followed with imitation gems.

The crown a is provided with an ordinary table 6 about which, and extending toward the girdle c, is a group of bright (cut and polished) facets f cooperating with the pa vilion facets to lend brilliancy to the gem; by reason of the transparency or semi-transparency of these out and polished facets. In the form of the invention shown the table e is cut and polished.

. The crown a in addition to the polished table 6 and cut and polished facets f,'has formed thereon a group of facets g, the surfaces of which are so finished as to make said facets dull (opaque or semi-opaque). These facets are so grouped with relation to the tableand the other facets as to combine in the crown cutting, two designs one of which is bright and scintillating and the other of which is sufficiently dull to create such contrast in the exposed portion of the gem as to combine in a single design of crown cutting, two distinct but blended effects. The desired degree of opacity of the facets 9 may be secured by a rough grinding operation, these facets not being polished except in the event that it be desired to modify the degree of their opacity to secure the desired effect.

The design of the dull finished portion of the crown, may be varied to any desired extent according to the shape or depth of the stone or the style of the cutting used in connection with a gem made in accordance with my invention. Any of the well known styles of the crown, or pavilion, cutting may be employed and the dull design upon the crown may be varied according to the location and size of the facets selected for creating this design.

It is not my intention to in any way limit my invention to the crown or pavilion cutting such as is shown in the accompanying drawings, or to use upon a gem having a round, curved or any particular geometrical form of girdle. In fact the design which may be used to produce a stone made in accordance with my invention, is quite immaterial to the invention, the essential characteristic of which is to group both transparcut or semi-transparent and opaque or semiopaque facets in the crown cutting of a gem in a manner to secure the two blended designs, one bright and scintillating and the other dull.

Having described the invention, what I claim as new and desire to have protected by Letters Patent is 1. As an article of manufacture, a brilliant having a pavilion provided with cut and polished facets grouped about the axis of the stone, so as to give brilliancy to the gem, and a crown provided with a group of bright facets, and a group of dull facets, whereby said crown has therein two blended designs one of them formed of said bright facets, and the other of said dull facets.

2. As an article of manufacture, a brilliant having a pavilion provided with cut and polished facets grouped about the axis of the stone, so finished as to give brilliancy to the gem and a crown having both bright and dull facets so grouped with relation to each other as to produce two blended designs, one formed of said bright facets and the other of said dull facets.

3. As an article of manufacture, a brilliant having a pavilion having cut and polished facets, and a crown having both out and polished and cut and rough finished facets so grouped with relation to each other as to produce two blended designs, one formed of said out and polished facets and the other of said out and rough finished facets.

In witness whereof I have hereunto affixed my signature in the presence of two, subscribing witnesses, this 28th day of February, 1916. I

SAMUEL HELLER.

VVitnesses F. T. WENTwoR'rH, JUDITH PARDEE.

Gopies or thia patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing; the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. U.

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