US1288366A - Machine for stitching shoe-uppers to sole-lips. - Google Patents

Machine for stitching shoe-uppers to sole-lips. Download PDF

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US1288366A
US1288366A US128215A US128215A US1288366A US 1288366 A US1288366 A US 1288366A US 128215 A US128215 A US 128215A US 128215 A US128215 A US 128215A US 1288366 A US1288366 A US 1288366A
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needle
instruments
thread
stitching
work
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US128215A
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Frank Zaleski
August R Schoenky
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REECE SHOE MACHINERY Co
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REECE SHOE MACHINERY CO
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B15/00Machines for sewing leather goods

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  • ZALESK a A. a. scHoENKY'. MACHINE FOR STHCHING SHOE UPPERS T0 SOLE LIPS.
  • This invention is an improved machine for stitching shoe upper to sole lip; this heing a very special class of machine employed for reducing a chain stitch, by the ald of a hoo ed, curved needle. and coperating movable stitching instruments, ⁇ namely, thread looper, take-up and Work feed device, and usually also, thread hook, channel guide, welt feed device, ,and locking means for the latter, and for the yielding work support.
  • Such machines are usually designed to serve' for either of two purposes, firstly, to stitch theupper and a strip of .welt to the downwardly projecting lip of the insole of a welt shoe, or, secondly, to stitch the reversed upper to the npstanding lip of 'the sole of a turn slice; whence this class of machine is generally known as a welt and turn stitching machine.
  • the main object of the present improvement is to afford sewing machines of the kinds to .which the invention is applicable, having a more effective and durable construction than heretofore known machines and capable of a higher rate of speed.
  • Another object ⁇ especially in shoe sewing machines, is to afford a lighter and the'refore faster running machine by dispensing with the ordinary construction of heavy rotating cams and using instead mechanism composed of comparatively light mechanical parts eapable. of high rapidity of action.
  • Another object is to afford harmonic actuation for such sewing machines, thus giving smoothness and ease ofA motion of the needle, looper, take-up, feed device and other stitching instruments, which may be over five or six or seven in number, some having rapid oscillating and changing motions.
  • Another object is to afford such a machine having an actuating mechanism substantially free from the qualities of imbalance and fly-wheel effect involved in the old cam drivenmachines, and Without the excessive noise and vibration thereof, and therefore capable of largely increased speed and output. with actually reduced strain on the workman, and without sacrificing the benefits of the appropriate cycle of stitching movements.
  • Another object conducing to the same results, is compactness by condensation and elimination of mechanism, so that relatively few connecting parts may drive all the stitching instruments, and be accommodated in a small space behind the stitching point, at which the various actions converge, so leaving the workman free to do his part in manipulating the Work.
  • Another object is to render less expensive as well as more durable such machines not only by the great reduction in machine puts, bri in their simplicity of form and ease of nianufacture and assembling.
  • the preferred plan of this improvement is in an actuating mechanism which commences with an operating crank shaft having several, for example four, pitmen driven by it, for actuation of a substantially larger number, (e. g., seven) stitching instruments, and from such smaller number of pitmen operating a system of rocking levers and llnks, arranged and extending generally in planes perpendicular to the shaft, and transversely iuxtaposed for compactness, to actuate the greater number of instruments, in the harmonic manner mentioned, and to Secure theappropriate cycle of motions.
  • a substantially larger number e. g., seven stitching instruments
  • Figure 1 is a diagrammatic representation of the preferred operation of a .weltng machine embodying the present. invention. although obviously the invention could be applied to machines having other and different modes of operation.
  • Fig. '2 is a plan view of a welting machine embodying the present improvements.
  • Fig. 3 is a partial front elevation part-lv in section. on the plane 3-3 of Fig. 7.
  • Fig. l is likewise a part plan viewed pa rtl v in section. taken on the plane -l--l of Fig. 7.
  • Fig. 5 isa left elevation partly in section. on the plane 5--5 of Fig. 2.
  • Fig. 6 is a section on the plane 6--6 of Fig. 7.
  • Fig. T is a left elevation of the entire machine. excepting that the supporting post is broken off and the base portion. eontrol ling pedals. etc.. are omitted.
  • Fig. 8 is a partial left elevation showing some of the active instruments at or near the .sewing point.
  • Fig. 9 is a front view of the parts shown in Fig. 8.
  • Fig. 10 is a horizontal section on the plane io-io nf Fig. 1i.
  • Fig. 11 is a right-hand elevation of some of the parts seen in Fig. 9.
  • Fig. l2 is a left elevation showing the connections which attuate the worlt support dog lock A'.
  • Fig. 13 is a plan of certain parts in Fig. 12.
  • Fig. 14 is a left elevation showing the connections which aetuate the channel guide B.
  • Fig. 15 is a left elevation showing the connections which a-'ftuate the needle C.
  • Fig. 16 is a left elevation showing the connections which actuate the looper D.
  • Fig. 17 a left elevation showing the connections which actnate the thread hook E.
  • Fig. 1S is a left'elevation showing the connections which actuate the take-up F.
  • Figs. V19Y and 2l are left elevations showing the connections which actuate the feed point.
  • FIG. 20 is a plan view of certain parts thereof.
  • Fig. 22 is a left elevation showing the connections which act-nate the welt feed and guide H.
  • the active instruments which perform operations upon or coperate with the work will be designated by a s vstem of reference letters. while the mechanical connections for causing the instruments to perform their respective functions at the proper point in the cycle of operation will be designated by numerals.
  • a work support A having a sliding shank a presents an upright front surface against which the upper of the shoe bears during the stitching.
  • a spring ai tends to hold the worksupport forward.
  • the work support has to be locked and released at certain points in the c vcle of operations, and a locking dog device A having a swinging shank a is utilized for the purpose.
  • the locking dog A serves when operative to lock in forward position not only the work support A but the welt guide and feed member H hereinafter to be referred to, so that the instruments A and H serve elfoc'tually to oppose the force of the feed point G hereinafter mentioned, when the latter strikes the work.
  • a guide B having a shank b is so positioned above the work that the extremity of the guide. enters the channelwhich has been previousl)r formed around the outer margin of the insole of the shoe. thus giving additional guidance to the shoe and insuring the proper positioning of the stitches.
  • the channel of the insole forms a lip which is turned out b v the chan nel guide and which lip is Stitched to the shoe upper and the welt thereby connecting the three. preparatory to the subsequent attachment of an outsole to the welt.
  • the channel guide is required to be moved slightly during ever ⁇ v cycle of operations.
  • An oecillating curved needle C is carried upon a block c in a general forward and rearward direction, the needle penetrating lirst the welt, then the upper and then the insole. and returning during each stitch, the thread being suitabl;v manipulated to pgpducc a continuous line of chain stitching.
  • Co erating with the looper is a ⁇ thread hooi( F3 shank or arm e.
  • thread hook is a take-up F located at.
  • a feed point G ormed withan upwardly extending shank or carrying arm g is located to engage with the lip of the Vshoe insole and in fact is caused to pass through an aperture provided in the channel gulde B for that purpose; the feed point having a movement to and from the work for engaging and disengaging, and a movement longitudinally of the work for feeding the work between stitches.
  • a to G is a of a Welt guide and a. welt feeder, it being carried on its sliding shank hand having a certain movement during each cycle for feeding the strip of leather or welt to the stitchlng point in harmony with theadvance of the shoe during the stitching operation.
  • the diagram Fig. 1 need not be explained in detail as it is suitably labeled and is therefore/self-explanatory.
  • the length of the diagram horizontally indicates one cycle of operations of the various instruments A to H, and it will be understood that such cycle will be repeated stitch after stitch.
  • the reference' A for the work support locking dog, and the references B, C, D, E, F, G, H, for the channel guide, needle, thread looper, thread hook, take-up, feed point, and combined welt guide and feed respectively, have been applied to the eight curves' or lines of the diagram.
  • the head 50 carrying the various mechanical' parts hereinafter to be described. It will be understood that any convenient shaft driving and stopping means can be employed, and any convenient pedals, control levers, and thelike.
  • the disclosure herein is directed more particularly to the mechanisms for securing through stitch after stitch the proper cycle of operations for each of the active instruments A to H of the machine.
  • the main shaft 53 of the machine In the upper part of the head, suitably supported in a bearing standard 51 and one of the two vertical walls or plates 52-5Q, is the main shaft 53 of the machine. from which in the present embodiment all of the operations to be described are effected.
  • the shaft 53 is a crank shaft having two cranks or pins which actuate four crank rods.
  • the first or left-hand crank. 56 is between the standard 51 and the left-hand wall 52 of the head, while the second or right-hand crank isinside or between the walls 52.
  • the outside crank 5G operates through a first crank rod 01, while the inside crank 57 operates through a second crank rod 03 and a third crank rod '65 and a fourth crank roll '64; the four crank rods being arranged from arm extends a link 72 to a large and important oscillating lever 73.
  • This lever 73 effects or infiuences the operation of the work support locking dog A', the needle C, the thread hook E, the feed oint G, and the welt guide and feed H.
  • he parts 63, 71, 72, 7'3 are seen in Fig. 12.
  • the shank a of the locking dog A' which locks in their forward position both the work support A and the welt feed and guide H, is horizontally swingable for applying its two dogs to the two members, to lock and unlock them.
  • the actuation is effected by means of an arm 74 downwardly extending from the lever 73 and having a. roller at its extremity which strikes a sharp blow upon the slanted rear end of the shank a', to unlock the dogs, against ⁇ the resistance of a leaf spring n.2 which tends to force th dogs' into locking position. See Figs. 12 and 13.
  • the channel guide B is actuated from a rock shaft 76 which in turn is actuated by the crank rod 61 through a link 62 which is directly pivoted to the arm of the rock shaftJ 76, the rock shaft having a second or downward arm 77 ⁇ which through a link 78 causes the reciprocation of a slide 79 which in turn connects with the swinging shank b of the channel guide.
  • the shank for convenience swings loosely on the feed point shaft 101. See Fig. 14.
  • the shank b surrounds the shaft 101 between the same collars 102 which include the feed point hub, so that, when the shaft moves axially to operate the feed point. the channel guide is caused to move along with the shaft and feed point.
  • the needle C carried on the block c is operated directly from the large lever 73A through a floating link 80 directly connecting the extremity of the lever with the needle block. See Fig. 15.
  • the thread looper D is caused to swin around with its screw spindle d by a vertica ⁇ sliding nut d engaging the screw spindle, the nut bein actuated from the crank rod 61 by the fo lowing connections.
  • the free end of the crank rod is guided in its movements by a swinging arm 81.
  • the arm 81 is fulcrumed at one end and at an intermediate point has connected to it another link 82 extending to an intermediate point on another lever 83 which swings about one end and at the other end is connected by a link 86 directly to the sliding nut d for causing the lip-and-down movements of the latter. See Fig. 16.
  • the thread hook E is actuated jointly from the lever 8-1 already mentioned (actuated from the crank rod 61) and from the large lever 73 as follows:
  • An upwardly extending arm 87, rigid 'with the large lever 73, ⁇ is connected by a link 88 with another link 89, the latter pivoted to the middle part of the lever 81.
  • VThereby the movements of the two levers control the position of the juncture or pivot .between the two links 88 and 89, and from this pivot extends ⁇ a third link 90 to the extremity of the swin ing shank e of the thread hook. See Fig. 1%.
  • the take-up F at the extremit of its swinging shank f is actuated from t e crank rod 6l as follows., rlihe crank rod is guided in its movements .by a sw-inging arm 91, the extremities of th rod and arm being connected to eachother and to a link 92 which extends to the swinging shank or lever f.
  • the arm 91 for convenience swings loosely about the rock shaft 7 6. See Fig. 18. ⁇
  • the auxiliary take-up F and its connections are shown more particularly in Figs. 6 and 7 and will be separately explained hereinbelow.
  • T he feed point G has both rearward and forward movement for engaging and disengaging the work, and right and left move ment for feeding.
  • the forward and backward movement is effected from the large lever 73.
  • the feed movement is effected from the rock shaft 76 rocked by the crank rod 62.
  • the connections may be as follows. See Figs. 19, 20, 2l.
  • a link 93 extends from the upward arm 87 of the large lever 78 to one arm of a bell crank 91 whose other arm is connected by a link 95 to the swinging shank or arm g of the feed point, which fulcrums about its carrying shaft 101.
  • the feed point is swung in and out.
  • the rock -sha'ft 76 has a downward arm 96, which ir its rocking movements actuates a link 97, t nich extends to a feed slide 98, which by a link 99 actuates a bell crank 100, which longitudinally slides a slide rod or shaft 101, which carries two collars 102-102 between which is the hub of the feed point and also ,the hub ofthe channel guide shank I).
  • the feed point can be swung about the shaft 101 for engaging and disengaging the work, and can be shifted riglitward and leftward with the shaft 101 for feeding purposes.
  • the former is permitted to partake of the slidin movement by the sliding connection 84 ready described; and the feed point similarly is permitted to partake of the movement by a sliding connection be link 114 with a swingin tween its shank g and the link 95 which swlngs it.
  • the link has a rightwardly projecting stud 111, upon which, the shank g en ages and slides.
  • the welt member x(lv-I which both guides and. feeds the welt and is carried upon the sliding shank L, is actuated from the large lever 73 and from the crank rod 65 as follows:
  • a link 103, pivoted to the lever 73 at one end, is connected at the other end to the extremity of the crank rod 65, and at the juncture of the link and rod is pivoted another link 104 which extends to one arm of abell crank 105 whose other arm is connected by a link 106 to a swinging arm 107 pivoted at 109.
  • a second arm 108 iS also ivoted at 109, and its extremity connects irectl with link 110 which moves the sliding shan h of the welt member.
  • the relation between the two arms 107 and 108 is such that the arm 107 may swing the arm 108 backward only to retract the welt member H, while a spring h is relied upon to force the same forwardly, and the locking dog A' is relied upon to hold it forward for a suitable time. See Figs. 22 and 12.
  • the auxilia take-up F is a passive de vice of a resilient nature. This is a wellknown instrument and may be similar to the member b5 of Fig. 7 of expired U. S. Patent No. 412,704.
  • the device F comprises a thread wheel at the end of a swinging arm f mounted on the same fulcrum with the takeup.
  • the thread wheel of the main take-up F is slightly offset, as seen in plan view F ig. 2,y so that the thread wlieel F' is arranged in the same plane with the other and below and to the rear thereof.
  • the auxiliary take-up arm 7" has a rear extension 113 beyond its fulcrum, and this is connected bv a lever 115 fulcrumed at its top end, see igs. 7 and 6.
  • a spring 116 tends to move lever 115 forward and thereby lower the auxiliary take-up.
  • the lpurpose of the device is to maintain the thread taut at all times so as to avoid slack. being capable, however, of yielding when the stitch is set. To avoid an abrupt stoppage in yielding under the pressure of the thread and the consequent rebound the auxiliary take-up is cushioned although positively stopped.”
  • the main take-up F operates to set the stitch its rising movement lifts the auxiliary take-up because of the tension on the thread. This operates ⁇ yielding untillever 115 comes in contact with the frame part 52.
  • the buier has a. stem with a head 118 by which its normal forward position 1s predetermined.
  • the shaft looking at the machine from the left end, rotates counter-clockwise, andthe outside crank 56 is timed sixty degrees behiii'dthey inside crank 57.
  • the various crank rods extend in different direct-ions from the several cranks, and this arrangement in conjunction with the form, posltion, size and arrangement of the parts numbered 71 to 110 secures the recise movements desired for the various active instruments A to H of the machine.
  • the welt feed may be adjusted by the Set screw 120 interposed between the arms 1.07 and 108, Fig. 22.
  • the feed of the work or the amount of reciprocation of the feed slide and point may be adjusted by shifting the pivot of link 97 along the slot 121 of arm 96, Fig. 21.
  • the welt guide position is adjustable by the set screw 122, Fig. 22.
  • the channel guide may be adjusted to different operative positions and out of operative position, for example, by the stop screw 123 carried by the shank b, Fig. 14.
  • Other analogous adjustments are capable of being introduced into the described machine.
  • the continuously rotating shaft 53 operates a plurality of cranks, namely, its two cranks 56 and 57, which are differently timed. These cranks actuate the various mechanical connections to the needle and other instruments of the machine through a plurality of pitmen.
  • pitman 61 is on crank 56, while crank 57 drives a plurality of pitmen, namely, 63, 64 and 65 which, while mounted on the same crank, are differently timed because extendinfr in different directions.
  • rockers 70 and 76 are co-axially arranged, and the hub of rocker 70 loosel surrounds the shaft of rocker 76, this s aft constituting a sort of axle arranged parallel tothe operating shaft 53 near the extreme rear of the machine.
  • the third rocker is the lever 81 which actuates the links 62, 82 and 89.
  • crank, link and lever mechanisms The coperative action of the several instruments secured by the crank, link and lever mechanisms mentioned may be substantially as follows.
  • the needle C is a hooked, curved needle adapted, fitted and operated to penetrate the work, to then receive a loo of the sin le thread, to then return throng the work with the thread loop and to occupy such thread loop on the succeeding penetrating stroke; this cycle being repeated indefinitely to produce chainstitches.
  • the thread looper D is movably fitted and operated so as to place a thread loop upon the hook of the needle on each penetrating stroke of ⁇ the needle.
  • the take-up F is movably fitted and operated so aste take-up the slack thread during each penetrating'stroke of the needle and to ⁇ five thread on the return stroke.
  • the work feedy device or feed point G is morably fitted to enga e with the Work and to advance the work w ′′ the needle' is out of the work and to thereafter disenga the work and return for a repetition o feed movement. It thus has an 'advancing and receding movement along the directionof feed and a reciprocating movement toward and from the work.
  • the channel guide B is movably fitted to advance and recede in conjunction with the feed device and also to reciprocate to and from the work.
  • the movement of the feed device and channel guide along the direction 0f vthe work feed which. is substantially parallel to the crank shaft 53,1is at right angles the planes of movement or substantially all of the othei ⁇ connections.
  • the slide rod o r shaft 101 is shown parallel t'o the operating shaft, and the bell crank.
  • ⁇ 10 ⁇ () constitutes a contiivance which is adapted, when one arm 1s moved in a planeat right angles to the shaft, to produce motion in the other arm, and in the slide rod, feed device and channel guide, parallel to the shaft..
  • the connections for producing the other movements in the feed device and channel guide are shown as swinging wholly in the planes at right angles to the shaft. l
  • the thread hook E is movably fitted and operated so as t0 take the thread between the looper and the work so as to assist the engagement of the needle and thread, the hook operating to release the thread after the loop is safely on the needle, that is, until the needle issub'stlantially withdrawn.
  • the welt feeding guide H is movably fitted and operated to measure a predetermined length of leather strip which is to constitute the welt, this hobos done while the needle is engaged in the work, and this instrument subsequently laying ⁇ the welt against the work during the feed.
  • the work support A intermittently liecomes movable in alternation with the action ofV locking itforward. ⁇ lVlien locked the Work support holds the work firmly to the, channel guide during the retraction of the needle. i
  • A. chain-stitch welt sewing machine for attaching together shoe upper and solelip, the same having at least five movable stitching instruments inclusive of the hooked needle, threadn looper,4 takeup, channel guide, and feed devices for the work and welt, each mounted for its cooperative movement in relation to the others ⁇ and a harmonic actuating mechanism for said stitching instruments, comprising an operating crank shaft continuously rotatable dui'- ing stitching, a plurality of pitmen substantally fewer than the stitching instruments and crank driven by said crank shaft, and connections from such smaller number of pitmen to the larger number of stitching instruments, including rockin levers and links moving in planes perpen icular to thel shaft, at least one of said stitching instruments being actuated from a plurality of said pitmen, and at least one of said rockiner levers taking part in actuating a lurality of said instruments, said connections adapted to transmit motion to the stitching 'instruments to operate the same smoothly in proper timing to produce successive stitches.
  • a Wax-thread shoe sewing machine for attaching together shoe upper and sole lip, the same having at least six movable stitching instruments inclusive of the curved needle, thread looper, takeupand feed de vice, each mounted for its cooperative moveineiit in relation to the others, and a harmonic actuating mechanism for said stitching instruments, comprising a single crank shaft having less than four cranks for opi erating suchsix instruments, said shaft continuously iotatafblefduring stitching, a plurality of pitmen, A"crank-driven by ⁇ said cra-rik shaft, and fewer in number than such six instruments and greater in number than the, number of saidl cranks, and connections from such pitmen to such stitching instruments, includingfrockin ⁇ levers and links movyting i'nplanes perpen 'cular to the shaft, whereby the crank motion istransmitted to the stitching instruments to operate the same in proper timing. to produce successive stitches.
  • a wax-thread, chain-stitch welt sewing machine for attaching together shoe upper and sole lip, the saine having at least five movable stitching instruments inclusive of the hooked needle, thread looper, take-up, thread hook, and feed devices for the work and welt, each mounted for its cooperative movement in relation to the others, and a harmonie actuating mechanism for said stitching instruments, comprising an opei! ⁇ rating crank shaft continuously rotatable during stitching and having two differently timed cranks.
  • a hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of the cla for attaching together shoe upper and sole lip having at least lthe following movable stitching instruments, hooked needle, thread looper, take-up, and work feed device, each mounted for cooperative movement in relation to the others, and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an operating crank shaft laterally arranged behind the sewing point and continuously rotatable during stitching, the Same having a pluralityof diil'erently timed cranks, a plurality of pitmen crank-driven from said cranks, and connections from such pitmen to the stitching instrulnents, including rocking levers and links moving in fore and-aft planes perpendicular to 'the shaft, and constructed, arranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the needle with a harmonic motion to advance and penetrate the Work and retract with a new thread loop, and to actuate the looper to place a thread loop on the hook of the advanced needle on each stroke and to actuate the
  • a hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of the class for attaching together shoe upper and sole lip having at least the following movable stitching instruments, hooked needle, thread looper, take-np. and work feed device, each mounted for cooperative movement in relation to the others, and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments., comprising an operating crank shaft laterally, arranged behind the sewing point and continuously rotatable during stitching, the same having a plurality of differently timed cranks, a plurality of pitmen crank-driven from said cranks, and connections from such pitmen to the stitching instruments, including rocking levers and links moving in foreand-aft planes perpendicular to the shaft, and constructed, arranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the needle with a harmonic motion to advance and penetrate the work and retract with a new thread loop, and to actuate the looper to place a thread loop on the hook of the -advanced needle on each stroke and to actuate the take-up coperative
  • a hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of the class for attaching together shoe upper and sole lip having at least the following movable stitching istruments, hooked needle C, thread looper D, take-up F, and work feed device G, each mounted for coperative movement in relation to the others, and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an operatin crank shaft 53 laterally arran ed behind the sewing point and continuous y rotatable during stitching, a
  • a hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of the classfor attaching together shoe uplper and sole 11p having at least t e following movable stitching instruments, hooked needle C, thread looper D, take-up F, and work feed device G, each mounted for coperative movement in relation to the others, and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an o erating crank shaft 53 laterally arranged .be ind the sewing oint and continuously rotatable during stitching, a plurality of diiferently timed pitmen crankdriven from said crank shaft, and connections from such pitmen to the stitching instruments, including rocking levers and links moving in fore-and-a planes perpendicular to the shaft, and constructed, arranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the needle with a harmonic motion to advance and penetrate the work and retract with a new thread loop, and to actuate the looper with a harmonic motion to place a thread loop on the hook of the advanced needle on each stroke,
  • add mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments comprising an operatin crank shaft 53 continuously rotatable urin stitching, a pluralit of pitmen .crankriven from said cran shaft, and connections from such pitmen to the stitching instruments, including rocking levers and links moving in planes perpendicular to the shaft, and constructed, arranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the needle to make its advance and return strokes with a harmonic motion to penetrate the work and retract with a new thread loop, and to actuate the feed device to engage and advance the Work while the needle is out of the work and to disengage the work and return, and to actuate cooperatively the other instruments.
  • a hooked needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of the class for attaching together shoe u per and sole lip having at least t e following movable stitching instruments, hooked curved needle C, thread looper D, take-u F, thread hook E, channel guide B and eed device G, each mounted for coperative movement in relation to the others, and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an operating crank shaft 53 continuously rotatable during stitching, a pluralit of pitmen crank-driven from said crank s aft, and connections from such pitmen to the stitching instruments, including rockin levers and link movin in planes perpen icuconstructed, arranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the needle to make its advance and return strokes with a harmonic motion to penetrate the Work and retract with a new thread loop, and to actuate the feed device to engage and ⁇ advance the work while the needle is out of the work and to disengage the work and return. and to actuate coperatively the
  • a hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of the class for attachi together shoe upper and sole lip, the same aving at least the following movable stitching instruments, ,hooked needle, thread looper, take-up, and work feeddevice, each mounted for coperative movement in relation to the others. and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an operating crank shaft laterally arranged behind the Sewing point and continuously rotatable ⁇ during stitching, a plurali? of differently timed pitmen crank-driven om said crank shaft.
  • the workand retract ivitha'new thread loop,and to actnate the looper to place a4 thread loop on the hook ot' the advanced needle on each stroke, and to actuate the take-up coperativellv and with a harmonic motion to take up the slack thread during each advancing needle stroke and to give thread on the rcturn stroke, and to actuate the feed device to engage and advance the Work while the needle is cut of the work and to disengag'e the ivork and return, and coperatively to actuate the, other instruments.
  • a hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of the class for attaching together slice upper and sole lip having at least the following'movable stitching instruments, hooked curved needle.
  • thread looper D take-up F
  • thread hook E thread hook E
  • channel guide B and feed device G the feed device mounted to advanceand recede along the direction of feed and to reciprocate toivard and from the Work, and the other "instrumentil mounted for coperative movements.
  • mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments comprising an operating crank shaft continuouslvY rotatable during stitching. a plurality of pitmen crank-drlven from said crank Shaft. and connections from such pitmen to the stitching instruments, including rockin levers and links moving in planes perpenc icular to the shaft.
  • the feed device connections including separate trains, one derivin its motion from one shaft crank 56 for a vancing and returning the feed device, and the others from another crank 57 for reciprocating the feed device.
  • a hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of the class for attaching together shoe upper and sole lip,th,e same having at least the following movable'ptitching instruments, hooked curved needle, thread looper D, take-up F, thread hook E, channel guide B and feed device G, the feed device mounted to advance and recede along the direction of feed and to reciprocate toward and from the work, and the other instruments mounted for cooperative movements, and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an operating crank shaft 53 continuously rotatable during stitching, the same having a plurality of differently timed cranks, 56, 57, a plurality of pitmen crank-driven from said cranks.
  • pitmen to thfe stitchingr instruments including rocking levers and links moving in planes perpendicular to the shaft, and constructed, arranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the needle to make its advance and return strokes with a harmonic motion to"penetrate the work and retract with a new 105 thread loop. and to actuate the feed device, to engage the Work, and then advance the work while the needle is out of the Work, and then disengage the work and then recede. and to actuate coperatively the other instruments; the feed device connections including differently timed rockers 70, 76, coaxially arranged. each actuated by one of said cranks and the two rockers respectively connected for producing the advance and return movements and the reciprocating movements of the feed device.'
  • cranks, and connections from such pitmen to the stitching instruments including rockin'g levers and links moving in planes perpendicular to the shaft, and constructed, larranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the needle to make its advance and return strokes with a harmonic motion to penetrate the work and retract with a new thread loop, and to actuate the feed device to engage the work, and then advance the work while the needle is out of the work, and then disengage the work and then recede, and to actuate coperatively the other instruments;
  • the feed device connections including a bell crank contrivance 100 actuated .at right angles to the shaft and operating to produce feeding and return movements in said feed device parallel to the shaft, and connections for reciprocating the feed device.
  • the feed device connections including a slide rod 101 arranged parallel to said shaft and having the feed device G 4mounted thereon capable of reciprocation to and ,from the Work, and a bell crank 100 arranged with one arm capable vof sliding the rod for the feedand return movements and the other arm movable substantially at right angles to the movement of said rod.
  • a hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of the class for attaching together shoe upper and sole lip having at least the following movable Stitching instruments, hooked curved needle C, thread looper D, take-u F, thread hook E, channel guide B and eed device G, each mounted for coperative movement in relation to the others, and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an operating crank shaft 53 continuously rotatable during stitching, a plurality of pitmen 61, 63,V etc., crank-driven from said crank shaft, and connections from such pitmen to the stitching instruments.
  • rocking levers and links moving in planes perpendicular to the shaft, and constructed, arranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the needle to make its advance and return strokes with a harmonic motion to penetrate the work and retract with a new thread loop, and to actuate the loo er to place a thread loop on the hook of t e advanced needle on each stroke, and to actuate the thread hook with a harmonic motion to take the thread between the looper and work and release the same after the loop is safely on the needle hook.
  • channel guide B and feed device G each mounted for coperative movement in relation to the others, and for actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an operating crank shaft 53 continuously rotatable during stitching, a plurality of pitmen 61, 63, etc., crank-driven from said crank shaft, and connections from such pitmen to the stitching instruments, including rocking levers and links moving in planes perpendicular to the shaft, and constructed, arranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the needle to make its advance and return strokes ⁇ with a vharmonic motion to penetrate the work and retract with a new thread loop, and to actuate the looper to place a thread loop on the hook of the advanced needle on each stroke, and to actuate the thread hook with a harmonic motion to take the thread between the looper and work and release the same after the loop is safely on the needle hook, the needle and thread hook connections comprising a rocker driven by one pitman 63. a second rocker 81 driven by another pitman 61, link connections from both said rockers
  • the needle, looper and thread hook connections comprising a rocker 70 driven by one pitman 63, a second rocker S1 driven by another pitman 61, link connections from both said rockers to the thread hook, connections
  • thread looper D take-up F, thread hook E, channel guide B and feed device G, each mounted for cooperative movement in ref :lation to the others, and mechanism for in each cycle to actuate the needle to makeb its advance and return strokes with a harmonic motion to penetrate the work and reu tract with a new thread loop, and to actuate the looper to place a thread loop on the hook of the advanced needle on each stroke, and to actuate the thread hook with a har ironic motion to take the thread between the looper and work and release the same after the loop is safely on the needle hook, the looper and thread hook connections comprising a rocker 70 driven by one pitman 63, a second rocker 81 driven by another pitman 61, link connections from both said rockers to the thread hook, connections from rocker 81 to the looper.
  • a hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of the class for attaching together shoe upper and sole lip havingr at least the following movable stitching instruments, hooked curved needle C, thread looper D, take-up F, thread hook E, channel guide B and feed device G, each mounted for coperative movement in rela- ⁇ V tion to the others, and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an operating crank shaft 53 continuousl rotatable during stitching, a plurality o pitmen 61, 63, etc., crank-driven from said crank shaft, and connections from such pitmen to the stitching instruments, including rocking levers and links moving in planes perpendicular to the shaft, and constructed, arranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate th'e needle to make its advance and return strokes witlxa harmonic motion to penetrate the Work fnd retract with a new thread loop, and tqactuate the looper'with a harmonic motion to place a thread loop on the hook of the advanced needle
  • a hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of the class for attaching together shoe up er and sole lip having at least yt e following movable stitching instruments, hooked curved needle C, thread looper D, take-up F, and work feed device G, each mounted for ooperative Vmovement in relation to the others, and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an operating crank shaft 53 having diferently timed cranks 56, 57, said shaft arranged laterali.
  • a hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewing ⁇ machine of the class for attaching together shoe u per and sole lip having at least tile following movable stitchin instruments, hooked curved needle C, thread looper D, take-up F, and work feed device G, each mounted for cooperative movement in relation to the others, and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments, comprisingan operating crank shaft 53 having differently timed cranks, said shaft arranged laterally behind the sewing point and continuously rotatable during stitching, in com bination with differently timed crank driven pitmen 61, 63,64, 65 fewer in number than the number of stitching instruments actuated therefrom, and connections from such litmen to the stitching instruments, including rockers 70, 81, and connecting links moving in fore-and-aft planes perpendicular to the shaft, constructed, arranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the hooked needle with a harmonic motion to advance and penetrate the work and retract with a thread loop, and to actuate coperatively others of

Description

F. ZALESKI 6; A. R. SCHENKY.A MACHINE son smcHlNn snoe uPPEas To sole ms. PPLICATIN HLEU IAN-9, 15H5. 1,288,366. Patented Dec.17.1918.
SHEETS-SHEE l.
-F. ZALESKI R. SCHOENKY. MACHINE FOR STITCHING SHGE UPPERS T0 SOLE LIPS.
PPLICTUJN FILED IAN-9| |915- 1,28 8,366. Patented Dec.17.1918.
SHEETS-SHEET 2.
F. ZALESKI L A. R. SCHOENKY. MACHINE FOR STITCHING SHOE UPPERS T0 SOLE LIPS.
APPucnTloN man 1AN..9.19|5. 1 Patented D80. 17, 1918.
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F. ZALESKIV & A. R. SCHOENKY. MACHINE FOR S'ITCHING SHOE UPPERS T0 SOLE LIPS.
APPLICAT'ION FLED IMLB. 915.
Patented Dec. 17, 1918.
I SHEETS-SHED' 5.
F. ZALESK: a A. a. scHoENKY'. MACHINE FOR STHCHING SHOE UPPERS T0 SOLE LIPS.
APPLICATION FILED MILQ, |9I5 -4 mami B00111918.
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F. ZALESKI 6L A. R. SCHOENKY. MACHNE FOR STHCHING SHOE UFPEHS T0 SOLE LIPS. l
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1 ,288,366. Patented Dec. 17, 1918.
UNITED STATES PATENTQFFICE,
FRANK ZALESKI, OF CAMBRIDGE, AND AUGUST B. SCHOEN KY, OF SOMEBVILLE, MASSA- CHUSETTS, ASSIGNORS T0 BEECE SHOE MACHINERY COLIPANY.k OF BOSTON, MASSA- CHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF kMAINE.
Specification of Letters Patent.
Patented Dec. 17, 1918.
Application flied January 9, 1915. Serial No. 1,282.
To all whom, 'it 'may concern Be it known that we, FRANK ZALnsKI and AUGUST R. SCHOENKY, respectively subject of the German Emperor and citizen of the United States, residing at Cambridge and at Somerville, respectively, in the county of Middlesex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Machines for Stitching Shoe-Uppers to Sole-Lips, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawing.
This invention is an improved machine for stitching shoe upper to sole lip; this heing a very special class of machine employed for reducing a chain stitch, by the ald of a hoo ed, curved needle. and coperating movable stitching instruments,` namely, thread looper, take-up and Work feed device, and usually also, thread hook, channel guide, welt feed device, ,and locking means for the latter, and for the yielding work support.
Such machines are usually designed to serve' for either of two purposes, firstly, to stitch theupper and a strip of .welt to the downwardly projecting lip of the insole of a welt shoe, or, secondly, to stitch the reversed upper to the npstanding lip of 'the sole of a turn slice; whence this class of machine is generally known as a welt and turn stitching machine.
The main object of the present improvement is to afford sewing machines of the kinds to .which the invention is applicable, having a more effective and durable construction than heretofore known machines and capable of a higher rate of speed. Another object` especially in shoe sewing machines, is to afford a lighter and the'refore faster running machine by dispensing with the ordinary construction of heavy rotating cams and using instead mechanism composed of comparatively light mechanical parts eapable. of high rapidity of action.
Another object is to afford harmonic actuation for such sewing machines, thus giving smoothness and ease ofA motion of the needle, looper, take-up, feed device and other stitching instruments, which may be over five or six or seven in number, some having rapid oscillating and changing motions. Another object is to afford such a machine having an actuating mechanism substantially free from the qualities of imbalance and fly-wheel effect involved in the old cam drivenmachines, and Without the excessive noise and vibration thereof, and therefore capable of largely increased speed and output. with actually reduced strain on the workman, and without sacrificing the benefits of the appropriate cycle of stitching movements. Another object, conducing to the same results, is compactness by condensation and elimination of mechanism, so that relatively few connecting parts may drive all the stitching instruments, and be accommodated in a small space behind the stitching point, at which the various actions converge, so leaving the workman free to do his part in manipulating the Work. Another object is to render less expensive as well as more durable such machines not only by the great reduction in machine puts, bri in their simplicity of form and ease of nianufacture and assembling.
To the attainment of the above objects, the present invention consists in the novel devices, arrangements, combinations, mechanical movements and other features described in the following specification or illustrated in the accompanying drawings.
Particularly, the preferred plan of this improvement is in an actuating mechanism which commences with an operating crank shaft having several, for example four, pitmen driven by it, for actuation of a substantially larger number, (e. g., seven) stitching instruments, and from such smaller number of pitmen operating a system of rocking levers and llnks, arranged and extending generally in planes perpendicular to the shaft, and transversely iuxtaposed for compactness, to actuate the greater number of instruments, in the harmonic manner mentioned, and to Secure theappropriate cycle of motions.
We will first refer to the active instruments which perform the various operations on the shoe, and then describe a suitable mode of cooperative action therefor by a diagram, and will then describe a welting machine embodying the present improvements and possessing the operation illustrated in such diagram.
In the accompanying drawings forming a part hereof, Figure 1 is a diagrammatic representation of the preferred operation of a .weltng machine embodying the present. invention. although obviously the invention could be applied to machines having other and different modes of operation.
Fig. '2 is a plan view of a welting machine embodying the present improvements.
Fig. 3 is a partial front elevation part-lv in section. on the plane 3-3 of Fig. 7.
Fig. l is likewise a part plan viewed pa rtl v in section. taken on the plane -l--l of Fig. 7.
Fig. 5 isa left elevation partly in section. on the plane 5--5 of Fig. 2.
Fig. 6 is a section on the plane 6--6 of Fig. 7.
Fig. T is a left elevation of the entire machine. excepting that the supporting post is broken off and the base portion. eontrol ling pedals. etc.. are omitted.
Fig. 8 is a partial left elevation showing some of the active instruments at or near the .sewing point.
Fig. 9 is a front view of the parts shown in Fig. 8.
Fig. 10 is a horizontal section on the plane io-io nf Fig. 1i.
Fig. 11 is a right-hand elevation of some of the parts seen in Fig. 9.
Fig. l2 is a left elevation showing the connections which attuate the worlt support dog lock A'.
Fig. 13 is a plan of certain parts in Fig. 12.
Fig. 14; is a left elevation showing the connections which aetuate the channel guide B.
Fig. 15 is a left elevation showing the connections which a-'ftuate the needle C.
Fig. 16 is a left elevation showing the connections which actuate the looper D.
Fig. 17 a left elevation showing the connections which actnate the thread hook E.
Fig. 1S is a left'elevation showing the connections which actuate the take-up F.
Figs. V19Y and 2l are left elevations showing the connections which actuate the feed point.
(l, while Fig. 20 is a plan view of certain parts thereof.
Fig. 22 is a left elevation showing the connections which act-nate the welt feed and guide H.
For convenience. the active instruments which perform operations upon or coperate with the work will be designated by a s vstem of reference letters. while the mechanical connections for causing the instruments to perform their respective functions at the proper point in the cycle of operation will be designated by numerals.
It will be understood that the operator holds the inverted shoe in stitching position and performs any necessary turning or guiding as the feed operates and stitching progresses.
A work support A having a sliding shank a presents an upright front surface against which the upper of the shoe bears during the stitching. A spring ai tends to hold the worksupport forward. The work support has to be locked and released at certain points in the c vcle of operations, and a locking dog device A having a swinging shank a is utilized for the purpose. Incidentally,`
the locking dog A serves when operative to lock in forward position not only the work support A but the welt guide and feed member H hereinafter to be referred to, so that the instruments A and H serve elfoc'tually to oppose the force of the feed point G hereinafter mentioned, when the latter strikes the work.
A guide B having a shank b is so positioned above the work that the extremity of the guide. enters the channelwhich has been previousl)r formed around the outer margin of the insole of the shoe. thus giving additional guidance to the shoe and insuring the proper positioning of the stitches. It will be understood that the channel of the insole forms a lip which is turned out b v the chan nel guide and which lip is Stitched to the shoe upper and the welt thereby connecting the three. preparatory to the subsequent attachment of an outsole to the welt. The channel guide is required to be moved slightly during ever \v cycle of operations.
An oecillating curved needle C is carried upon a block c in a general forward and rearward direction, the needle penetrating lirst the welt, then the upper and then the insole. and returning during each stitch, the thread being suitabl;v manipulated to pgpducc a continuous line of chain stitching.
A thread looper D carried at the lower end ot' an upright screw-threaded spindle ci oscillates about one and one-eighth revolutions for manipulating the thread in the formation ot each stitch. T he spindle'is engaged by a vertically sliding nut d which turns it. Co erating with the looper is a` thread hooi( F3 shank or arm e.
Also "cooperating with the looper and.'
at the forward end of a carrying.
thread hook is a take-up F located at. the
forward end of its carrying arm or shank f. Associated with the take-up F is a resilient or auxiliary take-u F. K
A feed point G ormed withan upwardly extending shank or carrying arm g is located to engage with the lip of the Vshoe insole and in fact is caused to pass through an aperture provided in the channel gulde B for that purpose; the feed point having a movement to and from the work for engaging and disengaging, and a movement longitudinally of the work for feeding the work between stitches.
In addition to the above parts A to G is a of a Welt guide and a. welt feeder, it being carried on its sliding shank hand having a certain movement during each cycle for feeding the strip of leather or welt to the stitchlng point in harmony with theadvance of the shoe during the stitching operation.
The diagram Fig. 1 need not be explained in detail as it is suitably labeled and is therefore/self-explanatory. The length of the diagram horizontally indicates one cycle of operations of the various instruments A to H, and it will be understood that such cycle will be repeated stitch after stitch. The reference' A for the work support locking dog, and the references B, C, D, E, F, G, H, for the channel guide, needle, thread looper, thread hook, take-up, feed point, and combined welt guide and feed respectively, have been applied to the eight curves' or lines of the diagram.
The nature of the curves in the Fig. 1 diagram shows that the action or motion of all of the instruments is what may be termed harmonic; there is no such jerk or thrust as.
is involved in cam operated connections, the motion of each instrument. on the contrary beingr analogous tothat of a steam engine cross head which changes speed and direction without suggestion of shock.
At the top of the post of the machine. is the head 50 carrying the various mechanical' parts hereinafter to be described. It will be understood that any convenient shaft driving and stopping means can be employed, and any convenient pedals, control levers, and thelike. The disclosure herein is directed more particularly to the mechanisms for securing through stitch after stitch the proper cycle of operations for each of the active instruments A to H of the machine.
In the upper part of the head, suitably supported in a bearing standard 51 and one of the two vertical walls or plates 52-5Q, is the main shaft 53 of the machine. from which in the present embodiment all of the operations to be described are effected.
The shaft 53 is a crank shaft having two cranks or pins which actuate four crank rods. The first or left-hand crank. 56 is between the standard 51 and the left-hand wall 52 of the head, while the second or right-hand crank isinside or between the walls 52.
The outside crank 5G operates through a first crank rod 01, while the inside crank 57 operates through a second crank rod 03 and a third crank rod '65 and a fourth crank roll '64; the four crank rods being arranged from arm extends a link 72 to a large and important oscillating lever 73. This lever 73 effects or infiuences the operation of the work support locking dog A', the needle C, the thread hook E, the feed oint G, and the welt guide and feed H. he parts 63, 71, 72, 7'3 are seen in Fig. 12.
The further connecting mechanism will now be described by considering in turn each of the instruments A to H and showing the actuating connections to it from the mechanisms already described.
The shank a of the locking dog A' which locks in their forward position both the work support A and the welt feed and guide H, is horizontally swingable for applying its two dogs to the two members, to lock and unlock them. The actuation is effected by means of an arm 74 downwardly extending from the lever 73 and having a. roller at its extremity which strikes a sharp blow upon the slanted rear end of the shank a', to unlock the dogs, against` the resistance of a leaf spring n.2 which tends to force th dogs' into locking position. See Figs. 12 and 13.
The channel guide B is actuated from a rock shaft 76 which in turn is actuated by the crank rod 61 through a link 62 which is directly pivoted to the arm of the rock shaftJ 76, the rock shaft having a second or downward arm 77`which through a link 78 causes the reciprocation of a slide 79 which in turn connects with the swinging shank b of the channel guide. The shank for convenience swings loosely on the feed point shaft 101. See Fig. 14. The shank b surrounds the shaft 101 between the same collars 102 which include the feed point hub, so that, when the shaft moves axially to operate the feed point. the channel guide is caused to move along with the shaft and feed point. This relative movement is permitted b v the illustrated sliding connection between the upper forward end of the slide 79 and the upward extremity of the channel guide shank b. the latter having a rightwardly projecting stud 84, (see Figs.2 and 3). which is pressed by spring 85 into contact with the concave end of the slide.
The needle C carried on the block c is operated directly from the large lever 73A through a floating link 80 directly connecting the extremity of the lever with the needle block. See Fig. 15.
The thread looper D is caused to swin around with its screw spindle d by a vertica` sliding nut d engaging the screw spindle, the nut bein actuated from the crank rod 61 by the fo lowing connections. The free end of the crank rod is guided in its movements by a swinging arm 81. The arm 81 is fulcrumed at one end and at an intermediate point has connected to it another link 82 extending to an intermediate point on another lever 83 which swings about one end and at the other end is connected by a link 86 directly to the sliding nut d for causing the lip-and-down movements of the latter. See Fig. 16.
The thread hook E is actuated jointly from the lever 8-1 already mentioned (actuated from the crank rod 61) and from the large lever 73 as follows: An upwardly extending arm 87, rigid 'with the large lever 73, `is connected by a link 88 with another link 89, the latter pivoted to the middle part of the lever 81. VThereby the movements of the two levers control the position of the juncture or pivot .between the two links 88 and 89, and from this pivot extends `a third link 90 to the extremity of the swin ing shank e of the thread hook. See Fig. 1%.
The take-up F at the extremit of its swinging shank f is actuated from t e crank rod 6l as follows., rlihe crank rod is guided in its movements .by a sw-inging arm 91, the extremities of th rod and arm being connected to eachother and to a link 92 which extends to the swinging shank or lever f. The arm 91 for convenience swings loosely about the rock shaft 7 6. See Fig. 18.` The auxiliary take-up F and its connections are shown more particularly in Figs. 6 and 7 and will be separately explained hereinbelow.
T he feed point G has both rearward and forward movement for engaging and disengaging the work, and right and left move ment for feeding. The forward and backward movement is effected from the large lever 73. The feed movement is effected from the rock shaft 76 rocked by the crank rod 62. The connections may be as follows. See Figs. 19, 20, 2l. A link 93 extends from the upward arm 87 of the large lever 78 to one arm of a bell crank 91 whose other arm is connected by a link 95 to the swinging shank or arm g of the feed point, which fulcrums about its carrying shaft 101. Thus the feed point is swung in and out. The rock -sha'ft 76 has a downward arm 96, which ir its rocking movements actuates a link 97, t nich extends to a feed slide 98, which by a link 99 actuates a bell crank 100, which longitudinally slides a slide rod or shaft 101, which carries two collars 102-102 between which is the hub of the feed point and also ,the hub ofthe channel guide shank I). Thereby the feed point can be swung about the shaft 101 for engaging and disengaging the work, and can be shifted riglitward and leftward with the shaft 101 for feeding purposes. As the shaft shifts leftward and ,tightward carrying the channel guide and feed point, with it, the former is permitted to partake of the slidin movement by the sliding connection 84 ready described; and the feed point similarly is permitted to partake of the movement by a sliding connection be link 114 with a swingin tween its shank g and the link 95 which swlngs it. Thus, as seen vin Fig. 2, the link has a rightwardly projecting stud 111, upon which, the shank g en ages and slides.
vThe welt member x(lv-I which both guides and. feeds the welt and is carried upon the sliding shank L, is actuated from the large lever 73 and from the crank rod 65 as follows: A link 103, pivoted to the lever 73 at one end, is connected at the other end to the extremity of the crank rod 65, and at the juncture of the link and rod is pivoted another link 104 which extends to one arm of abell crank 105 whose other arm is connected by a link 106 to a swinging arm 107 pivoted at 109. A second arm 108 iS also ivoted at 109, and its extremity connects irectl with link 110 which moves the sliding shan h of the welt member. The relation between the two arms 107 and 108 is such that the arm 107 may swing the arm 108 backward only to retract the welt member H, while a spring h is relied upon to force the same forwardly, and the locking dog A' is relied upon to hold it forward for a suitable time. See Figs. 22 and 12.
The auxilia take-up F is a passive de vice of a resilient nature. This is a wellknown instrument and may be similar to the member b5 of Fig. 7 of expired U. S. Patent No. 412,704. The device F comprises a thread wheel at the end of a swinging arm f mounted on the same fulcrum with the takeup. The thread wheel of the main take-up F is slightly offset, as seen in plan view F ig. 2,y so that the thread wlieel F' is arranged in the same plane with the other and below and to the rear thereof. The auxiliary take-up arm 7" has a rear extension 113 beyond its fulcrum, and this is connected bv a lever 115 fulcrumed at its top end, see igs. 7 and 6. A spring 116 tends to move lever 115 forward and thereby lower the auxiliary take-up.
The lpurpose of the device is to maintain the thread taut at all times so as to avoid slack. being capable, however, of yielding when the stitch is set. To avoid an abrupt stoppage in yielding under the pressure of the thread and the consequent rebound the auxiliary take-up is cushioned although positively stopped." When the main take-up F operates to set the stitch its rising movement lifts the auxiliary take-up because of the tension on the thread. This operates `yielding untillever 115 comes in contact with the frame part 52. The buier has a. stem with a head 118 by which its normal forward position 1s predetermined.
we have not 'tempted in the above description of the `parts to point out com` letely thel relation between the various inks, levers, etc. To so describe them would require great length of description, whereas the disclosure in the drawings speaks for itself and the explanatory diagram, Fig. 1, sufliciently shows the operation or the result of the actions of the mechanical connections when put through their motions by the rotation of the main shaft 53.
The shaft, looking at the machine from the left end, rotates counter-clockwise, andthe outside crank 56 is timed sixty degrees behiii'dthey inside crank 57. The various crank rods extend in different direct-ions from the several cranks, and this arrangement in conjunction with the form, posltion, size and arrangement of the parts numbered 71 to 110 secures the recise movements desired for the various active instruments A to H of the machine.
The following, among other adjustments, may be made on the described machine. The welt feed may be adjusted by the Set screw 120 interposed between the arms 1.07 and 108, Fig. 22. The feed of the work or the amount of reciprocation of the feed slide and point may be adjusted by shifting the pivot of link 97 along the slot 121 of arm 96, Fig. 21. The welt guide position is adjustable by the set screw 122, Fig. 22. The channel guide may be adjusted to different operative positions and out of operative position, for example, by the stop screw 123 carried by the shank b, Fig. 14. Other analogous adjustments are capable of being introduced into the described machine.
The hereinabove description is supple mentally explained as follows: The continuously rotating shaft 53 operates a plurality of cranks, namely, its two cranks 56 and 57, which are differently timed. These cranks actuate the various mechanical connections to the needle and other instruments of the machine through a plurality of pitmen. Thus pitman 61 is on crank 56, while crank 57 drives a plurality of pitmen, namely, 63, 64 and 65 which, while mounted on the same crank, are differently timed because extendinfr in different directions.
he various trains of connections to each of the instruments A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, all-commence with the shaft 53 and, in fact, with one or the other of the cranks 56 or 57 and, in fact, with one or another of the pitmen 61, 63, 64, 65. The actual link and lever connections between the pitmen and the instruments has been described and the action will be understood from the drawings. Among the mechanical parts may be mentioned three rockers or rock levers, each of which takes part in the actuation of two or more of theV instruments. The first rocker comprises the arms 73, 74 and 87 and the hub with which they are all rigidly formed. The second rocker 76 comprises the arms 75, 77
and 96 and the rock shaft with which they are rigidly formed. The rockers 70 and 76 are co-axially arranged, and the hub of rocker 70 loosel surrounds the shaft of rocker 76, this s aft constituting a sort of axle arranged parallel tothe operating shaft 53 near the extreme rear of the machine. The third rocker is the lever 81 which actuates the links 62, 82 and 89.
While the several instruments, particularly-the needle, feed device, channel guide, thread looper, take-up and Welt feeding guide, coperate generally in a Well-known manner to produce successive stitches, it will be observed that the to and fro movements of each instrument are of a harmonic nature, being, as before explained, free from the jolting action of cams. The harmonic motion is indicated in the Fig. 1 diagram in which it will beseen that each instrument passes through its cycle of action lin the smoothest possible manner without sudden changes of motion. According to this invention these motions are attained as to the I greater number or all of the instruments by trains of mechanisms consisting wholly of pitmen, links and levers, crank-actuated from the operating shaft.
The coperative action of the several instruments secured by the crank, link and lever mechanisms mentioned may be substantially as follows.
The needle C is a hooked, curved needle adapted, fitted and operated to penetrate the work, to then receive a loo of the sin le thread, to then return throng the work with the thread loop and to occupy such thread loop on the succeeding penetrating stroke; this cycle being repeated indefinitely to produce chainstitches. l
The thread looper D is movably fitted and operated so as to place a thread loop upon the hook of the needle on each penetrating stroke of `the needle.
The take-up F is movably fitted and operated so aste take-up the slack thread during each penetrating'stroke of the needle and to `five thread on the return stroke.
The work feedy device or feed point G is morably fitted to enga e with the Work and to advance the work w iile the needle' is out of the work and to thereafter disenga the work and return for a repetition o feed movement. It thus has an 'advancing and receding movement along the directionof feed and a reciprocating movement toward and from the work.
The channel guide B is movably fitted to advance and recede in conjunction with the feed device and also to reciprocate to and from the work.
The movement of the feed device and channel guide along the direction 0f vthe work feed, which. is substantially parallel to the crank shaft 53,1is at right angles the planes of movement or substantially all of the othei` connections. The slide rod o r shaft 101 is shown parallel t'o the operating shaft, and the bell crank.` 10`() constitutes a contiivance which is adapted, when one arm 1s moved in a planeat right angles to the shaft, to produce motion in the other arm, and in the slide rod, feed device and channel guide, parallel to the shaft.. The connections for producing the other movements in the feed device and channel guide are shown as swinging wholly in the planes at right angles to the shaft. l
The thread hook E is movably fitted and operated so as t0 take the thread between the looper and the work so as to assist the engagement of the needle and thread, the hook operating to release the thread after the loop is safely on the needle, that is, until the needle issub'stlantially withdrawn.
The welt feeding guide H is movably fitted and operated to measure a predetermined length of leather strip which is to constitute the welt, this heilig done while the needle is engaged in the work, and this instrument subsequently laying` the welt against the work during the feed.
The work support A intermittently liecomes movable in alternation with the action ofV locking itforward.` lVlien locked the Work support holds the work firmly to the, channel guide during the retraction of the needle. i
It will thus be seen that we have described one kind of sewing machine, namely, a shoe welt sewing machine operating according to the principles and attaining'the objects and advantages hereiiibefore referred to, and ot er advantages will be apparent to those skilled in the art. Since many-matters of design, arrangement, form, combination. details and other features may be variously modified without departinor from the principles involved, no limitation to such features is intended excepting in so far as referred to in the appended claims.
What is claimed is:
1. A. chain-stitch welt sewing machine for attaching together shoe upper and solelip, the same having at least five movable stitching instruments inclusive of the hooked needle, threadn looper,4 takeup, channel guide, and feed devices for the work and welt, each mounted for its cooperative movement in relation to the others` and a harmonic actuating mechanism for said stitching instruments, comprising an operating crank shaft continuously rotatable dui'- ing stitching, a plurality of pitmen substantally fewer than the stitching instruments and crank driven by said crank shaft, and connections from such smaller number of pitmen to the larger number of stitching instruments, including rockin levers and links moving in planes perpen icular to thel shaft, at least one of said stitching instruments being actuated from a plurality of said pitmen, and at least one of said rockiner levers taking part in actuating a lurality of said instruments, said connections adapted to transmit motion to the stitching 'instruments to operate the same smoothly in proper timing to produce successive stitches.
2, A Wax-thread shoe sewing machine for attaching together shoe upper and sole lip, the same having at least six movable stitching instruments inclusive of the curved needle, thread looper, takeupand feed de vice, each mounted for its cooperative moveineiit in relation to the others, and a harmonic actuating mechanism for said stitching instruments, comprising a single crank shaft having less than four cranks for opi erating suchsix instruments, said shaft continuously iotatafblefduring stitching, a plurality of pitmen, A"crank-driven by `said cra-rik shaft, and fewer in number than such six instruments and greater in number than the, number of saidl cranks, and connections from such pitmen to such stitching instruments, includingfrockin `levers and links movyting i'nplanes perpen 'cular to the shaft, whereby the crank motion istransmitted to the stitching instruments to operate the same in proper timing. to produce successive stitches.
3. A wax-thread, chain-stitch welt sewing machine for attaching together shoe upper and sole lip, the saine having at least five movable stitching instruments inclusive of the hooked needle, thread looper, take-up, thread hook, and feed devices for the work and welt, each mounted for its cooperative movement in relation to the others, and a harmonie actuating mechanism for said stitching instruments, comprising an opei!` rating crank shaft continuously rotatable during stitching and having two differently timed cranks. four pitiiien engagiiig and driven by said cranks, and connections from such pitmen to such stitching instruments, including conipactly arranged rocking levers and links` whereby the crank motion is trans mitted to the stitching instruments to smoothly operate the saine in,proper timing to produce. successive stitches.
l. In a shoe sewing machine for attaching together the upper and sole lip, the combination with the curved, hooked needle and cooperating stitch-forming instruments, of an operating crank shaft continuously rotatable during stitching, pitmen actuated by said crank sha-ft, a rock lever (70) oscillated by one of said pitmen, and a needle block eonnectedfor oscillation by said rock lever, said itman, rock lever and needle block mova le in planes erpendicular to -said shaft andv constructed' and arranged to harmonically operate the needle to take part in producing successive stitches.
iso
5. In a shoe sewing machine for attaching together the upper and sole lip, the combination with the curved, hooked needle and coperating stitch-forming instruments, of an operating crank shaft continuously rota table during stitching, pit-men actuated by said crank shaft, a rock lever (70) oscillated by `one of said pitmen through a guided link (72) and a needle block link connected for oscillation by said rock lever, said pitman, rock lever, links, and needle block movable in planes perpendicular to said shaft and constructed and arranged to harmonically operate the needle to take part in producing successive stitches.
6. In a. shoe sewing machine for attaching together the upper and sole lip, the combination with the curved, hooked needle, looper, and coperating stitch-forming instruments, of an operatmg crank shaft continuously rotatable dluring stitching, pitmen actuated by said crank-shaft, a nut and screw actuator for rotating the lriper, and rock arm and link connections from one of said pitmen for relatively sliding the nut to operate the looper in harmony with the needle.
7 In a shoe sewing machine for attaching together the upper and sole lip, the combi nation with the curved, hooked needle, thread hook, and cooperating stitch-forming instruments,.-of an operating crank shaft continuously rotatable duringstitching, pitmen actuated by said crank shaft, a rock y arm (81) oscillated by one pitman, a rock arm (87 oscillated by a different pitman, and a t ree-link connection (S8, 89, 90) from said two arms to said thread hook to operate it in harmony with the needle.
8. In a shoe sewing machine for attaching together the upper and solelip, the combination with the curved, hooked needle, Welt feed and uide member, and cooperating stitch-forming instruments, of an operating crank shaft continuously rotatable during stitching, pitmen actuated by said crank shaft, a. rock arm (73) oscillatcd from one .pitman, a link (103) between said rock arm and a different pitman, a link (104) therefrom, a lever 105 oscillated by said link, and Connections from said lever to 'said member.
9. In a shoe Welt sewing machine for attaching together the upper and sole lip, the
A combination with the curved, hooked needle, 55 looper, thread hook, feed device, and cooperating stitcb-forming instruments, of an operating crank shaft continuously rotatable during stitching, pitmen actuated by said crank shaft, a rock lever (70)v oscillated by one of said pitmen, a needle block con` nected for oscillating by said rock lever, a second rock lever (81), and a link connection to said thread hook from both said rock levers, said pitmen, levers and links 65 movable in planes perpendicular to said shaft and constructed to operate the needle and thread hook to take part in producing successive stitches.
10. In a shoe welt sewing machine for attaching together the upper and sole lip, the combination with the curved, hooked needle, looper, thread hook, feed device, andy coperatin stitch-formin instruments, of an operating crank sha t continuously rotatable durin stitching, pitmen actuated by said cranks aft, a rock lever oscillated by' one of said nitmen, a needle block connected for oscillating by said rock lever, a second rock lever (81) a link connection to said thread hook from oth said rock levers; afthird rock lever (76), and connections to said feed device` from said third rock lever and another of said rock levers; said pitmen, levers and links movable in planes perpendicular to said shaft and constructed to operate the needle and thread hook and feed device to take part in producing successive stitches.
11. In a shoe welt sewing machine for at;4 taching together the upper and sole lip, the combination with the curved, hooked needle, looper, thread hook, feed device, and coperatin stitch-formino` instruments, of an operating crank shaft Continuously rotatable during stitching, pitmen actuated by said crank shaft, a rock lever (70) oscillated by one of said pitmen, a needle block connected for oscillatin by said rock lever, a second rock lever 6) and connections to said feed device from both said rock levers; 100 said pitmen, levers and links movable in planes perpendicular to said shaft and constructed to operate the needle and feed device to take part in producing successive stitches.
12. In a shoe Welt sewing machine for attaching together the upper and sole lip, the combination with the curved, hooked needle, looper, thread hook, feed device. and copcratin stitch-forming instruments, of au 110 operatlng crank shaft continuously notatable during stitching, pitmen actuated by said crank shaft, a rock lever (81') oscillated by one ofsaid pitmen. a second rock lever (87) oscillated by a different pitman, a link 115 connection to said thread hook from both said rock levers, and a link connection from one of said rock levers to said looper, said pitmen, levers and links movable in planes perpendicularfto said shaft and constructed 120 to operate thc looper and thread hook to take part in producing successive stitches.
13, In a shoe Welt sewing machine for attaching together the upper and sole lip, the combination with the curved, hooked needle, 125 looper, thread hook. feed device, and coperating stitch-forming instruments, of an operating crank shaft continuously rotatable during stitching, pitmen actuated by said crank shaft, a rock lever (8l) oscillated 130 by one of said pitmen, a second rock lever (87) oscillated by a different pitman, a link connection to said thread hook from both said rock levers, and a link connection from one of said rock levers to said looper, a third rock lever (76) oscillated from one of said other rock levers, and connections from said third rock lever for actuating said feed device, said pitmen, levers and links movable in planes perpendicular to said shaft and constructed to operate the looper and thread hook and feed device to take parl. in producing successive stitches.
14. In a shoe sewing machine for attaching together the upper and sole lip, the combination with the curved, hooked needle, looper, thread hook, feed device, and coperating stitch-formin instruments, of an operating crank shaft continuously rotatable during stitching, pitmen actuated by said crank shaft, a rock lever oscillated by one of said pitmen, a second rock lever 76) concentric with said rst rock lever, a third rock lever (81) oscillated from a dif ferent pitman, a lilik connection by which the third rock lever oscillates the second rock lever,- link connections from the first and third rock levers for actuating the thread hook, and connections from the first and second rock levers for actuatin the feed device; said pitmen, levers and inks movable in planes perpendicular t0 said shaft and constructed to operate the looper and feed device to take part in producing successive stitches.
15. A hooked-'needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of the class for attaching together shoe upper and sole lip, the same hav- `ing at least the following movable stitching instruments, hooked needle, thread. looper, take-up, and work feed device, each mounted for coperative movement in relation to the others, and mechanism fpr actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an operating crank shaft laterally arranged behind the sewing point and continuously rotatable during stitching, a plurality of differently timednpitmen crank-driven from said crank shaft, in'd connections from such pitmen to the stitching instruments, including rocking levers and links moving in foreand-aft planes perpendicular to the shaft, and constructed, arranged and' timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the needle with a harmonic motion to advance and penetrate the work and retract with a new thread loop. and to actuata the looper to place a thread looV en t'he hookpf the advanced needle on eaci stroke, and to actuate the take-up cooperatively and with a harmonic motion to take up the slack thread during each advancing needle stroke and to give thread on the return stroke.
16. A hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of the cla for attaching together shoe upper and sole lip, the same having at least lthe following movable stitching instruments, hooked needle, thread looper, take-up, and work feed device, each mounted for cooperative movement in relation to the others, and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an operating crank shaft laterally arranged behind the sewing point and continuously rotatable during stitching, the Same having a pluralityof diil'erently timed cranks, a plurality of pitmen crank-driven from said cranks, and connections from such pitmen to the stitching instrulnents, including rocking levers and links moving in fore and-aft planes perpendicular to 'the shaft, and constructed, arranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the needle with a harmonic motion to advance and penetrate the Work and retract with a new thread loop, and to actuate the looper to place a thread loop on the hook of the advanced needle on each stroke and to actuate the take-up cooperatively and with a harmonic motion to take up the slack thread during each advancing needle stroke and to give thread on the return stroke; said looper deriving its movements from one of said shaft cranks, and said needle and take-up both deriving motion from another of said cranks, through differently timed pitmen.
17. A hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of the class for attaching together shoe upper and sole lip, the same having at least the following movable stitching instruments, hooked needle, thread looper, take-np. and work feed device, each mounted for cooperative movement in relation to the others, and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments., comprising an operating crank shaft laterally, arranged behind the sewing point and continuously rotatable during stitching, the same having a plurality of differently timed cranks, a plurality of pitmen crank-driven from said cranks, and connections from such pitmen to the stitching instruments, including rocking levers and links moving in foreand-aft planes perpendicular to the shaft, and constructed, arranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the needle with a harmonic motion to advance and penetrate the work and retract with a new thread loop, and to actuate the looper to place a thread loop on the hook of the -advanced needle on each stroke and to actuate the take-up coperatively and with a harmonic motion to take up the slack thread during each adh vancing needle stroke and to give thread on the return stroke; anV axle to the rear ofand parallel to said shaft, a rocking lever included in the needle connections swinging on said axle, and a different rocking lever included in the take-up connections also swinging on said axle.
Lacasse 18. A hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of the class for attaching together shoe upper and sole lip, the same having at least the following movable stitching istruments, hooked needle C, thread looper D, take-up F, and work feed device G, each mounted for coperative movement in relation to the others, and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an operatin crank shaft 53 laterally arran ed behind the sewing point and continuous y rotatable during stitching, a
lurality of pitmen 61, 63, etc., crank-driven rom sald crank shaft, and connections from such pitmen to the stitching instruments, including rocking levers 70, 76, etc., and links 80, 82, etc., moving in fore-and-aft planes perpendicular to the shaft, and constructed, arranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the needle to make its advance and return strokes with a harmonic motion to penetrate the Work and retract with a new thread loop, and to actuate the looper to place a thread loop on the hook of the advanced needle on each stroke, and the takeu to take up the slack thread during each advancing needle stroke and to give thread on the return stroke, and cooperatively to actuate the other instruments.
19. A hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of the classfor attaching together shoe uplper and sole 11p, the same having at least t e following movable stitching instruments, hooked needle C, thread looper D, take-up F, and work feed device G, each mounted for coperative movement in relation to the others, and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an o erating crank shaft 53 laterally arranged .be ind the sewing oint and continuously rotatable during stitching, a plurality of diiferently timed pitmen crankdriven from said crank shaft, and connections from such pitmen to the stitching instruments, including rocking levers and links moving in fore-and-a planes perpendicular to the shaft, and constructed, arranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the needle with a harmonic motion to advance and penetrate the work and retract with a new thread loop, and to actuate the looper with a harmonic motion to place a thread loop on the hook of the advanced needle on each stroke, and to actuate the take-up coperatively to take up the slack thread during each advancing needle stroke and to give thread on the `return stroke.
20. A hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of the class for attaching together shoe u per and sole 11p, the same having at least t e following movable stitching instruments, hooked curved needle C, thread looper D take-u F,jthread hook E, channel guide and, eed dvwe G, each Alar to the shaft, an
mounted for co erative movement in relation to the ot ers, add mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an operatin crank shaft 53 continuously rotatable urin stitching, a pluralit of pitmen .crankriven from said cran shaft, and connections from such pitmen to the stitching instruments, including rocking levers and links moving in planes perpendicular to the shaft, and constructed, arranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the needle to make its advance and return strokes with a harmonic motion to penetrate the work and retract with a new thread loop, and to actuate the feed device to engage and advance the Work while the needle is out of the work and to disengage the work and return, and to actuate cooperatively the other instruments.
. 21. A hooked needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of the class for attaching together shoe u per and sole lip, the same having at least t e following movable stitching instruments, hooked curved needle C, thread looper D, take-u F, thread hook E, channel guide B and eed device G, each mounted for coperative movement in relation to the others, and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an operating crank shaft 53 continuously rotatable during stitching, a pluralit of pitmen crank-driven from said crank s aft, and connections from such pitmen to the stitching instruments, including rockin levers and link movin in planes perpen icuconstructed, arranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the needle to make its advance and return strokes with a harmonic motion to penetrate the Work and retract with a new thread loop, and to actuate the feed device to engage and `advance the work while the needle is out of the work and to disengage the work and return. and to actuate coperatively the other instruments; said connections 4including a sin le crank-actuated rocker 7 0 from which oth the needle and feed device derive their motions.
22. A hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of the class for attachi together shoe upper and sole lip, the same aving at least the following movable stitching instruments, ,hooked needle, thread looper, take-up, and work feeddevice, each mounted for coperative movement in relation to the others. and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an operating crank shaft laterally arranged behind the Sewing point and continuously rotatable `during stitching, a plurali? of differently timed pitmen crank-driven om said crank shaft. and connectio'ns from such pitmen to' the stitching instrumen-ts, including rockin levers and links movin in fore-and-a planes perpendicular to e shaft,- and constructed, arranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the needle with a harmonic motion to advance and penetrate. the workand retract ivitha'new thread loop,and to actnate the looper to place a4 thread loop on the hook ot' the advanced needle on each stroke, and to actuate the take-up coperativellv and with a harmonic motion to take up the slack thread during each advancing needle stroke and to give thread on the rcturn stroke, and to actuate the feed device to engage and advance the Work while the needle is cut of the work and to disengag'e the ivork and return, and coperatively to actuate the, other instruments.
A hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of the class for attaching together slice upper and sole lip, the same having at least the following'movable stitching instruments, hooked curved needle. thread looper D, take-up F, thread hook E, channel guide B and feed device G, the feed device mounted to advanceand recede along the direction of feed and to reciprocate toivard and from the Work, and the other "instrumentil mounted for coperative movements. and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an operating crank shaft continuouslvY rotatable during stitching. a plurality of pitmen crank-drlven from said crank Shaft. and connections from such pitmen to the stitching instruments, including rockin levers and links moving in planes perpenc icular to the shaft. and constructed, arranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the needle to make its advance and return strokes with a harmonic motion to penetrate the Work and retract With a nevy thread loop, and to actuate the feed device to engage the work. and then advance the work while the needle is ont of the Work, and then disengage the ivork and then recede, and to aetuate coperativeliY the other instruments.
24. A hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sea'- ing machine of the class for attaching together shoe upper and sole lip. the same having at least the following movable stitching instruments. hooked curved needle. th-read looper D. take-up F, thread hook E, channel guide ll. and feed device (i, the feed device mounted to advance and recede along the direction of feed and to reciprocate toward and from the work. and the other instruments mounted for coperative movements. and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments. comprising an operating crank shaft 53 continuouslyr rotatable durin stitching. the same having a plurality of di erently timed cranks, 56. 57. a pluralitiY of' pitmen eranl--driven from said cranks. and connections. from such pitmen to the stitching instruments. including rocking levers and links moving in planes perpendicular to the shaft, and constructed, ar-
ranged and timed to operate in each cycle t0 actuate the needle to make its advance and return strokes with a harmonic motion to penetrate the work and retract with a new thread loop, and to actuate the feed device to engage the Work, and then advance the work while the needle is out of the work, and then disengage the work and then recede, and to actuate coperatively the other instruments; the feed device connections including separate trains, one derivin its motion from one shaft crank 56 for a vancing and returning the feed device, and the others from another crank 57 for reciprocating the feed device.
25. A hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of the class for attaching together shoe upper and sole lip,th,e same having at least the following movable'ptitching instruments, hooked curved needle, thread looper D, take-up F, thread hook E, channel guide B and feed device G, the feed device mounted to advance and recede along the direction of feed and to reciprocate toward and from the work, and the other instruments mounted for cooperative movements, and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an operating crank shaft 53 continuously rotatable during stitching, the same having a plurality of differently timed cranks, 56, 57, a plurality of pitmen crank-driven from said cranks. and connections from such pitmen to thfe stitchingr instruments, including rocking levers and links moving in planes perpendicular to the shaft, and constructed, arranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the needle to make its advance and return strokes with a harmonic motion to"penetrate the work and retract with a new 105 thread loop. and to actuate the feed device, to engage the Work, and then advance the work while the needle is out of the Work, and then disengage the work and then recede. and to actuate coperatively the other instruments; the feed device connections including differently timed rockers 70, 76, coaxially arranged. each actuated by one of said cranks and the two rockers respectively connected for producing the advance and return movements and the reciprocating movements of the feed device.'
26. A hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of the class for attaching together shoe upper and sole lip, the same 12 ha ving at least the following movable stitching instruments, hooked curved needle, thread looper D, take-up F, thread hook E, channel guide B and feed device C, the feed device mounted to advance and recede along the direction of feed and to reciprocate toward and from th Work. and the other instruments mounted for coperative movements and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an oper- .ating crank shaft 53 continuously rotatable during stitching, the Vsame having a plurallty ofdft'erently timed cranks 56, 57, a
plurality of pitmen crank-driven from said.
cranks, and connections from such pitmen to the stitching instruments, including rockin'g levers and links moving in planes perpendicular to the shaft, and constructed, larranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the needle to make its advance and return strokes with a harmonic motion to penetrate the work and retract with a new thread loop, and to actuate the feed device to engage the work, and then advance the work while the needle is out of the work, and then disengage the work and then recede, and to actuate coperatively the other instruments; the feed device connections including a bell crank contrivance 100 actuated .at right angles to the shaft and operating to produce feeding and return movements in said feed device parallel to the shaft, and connections for reciprocating the feed device.
27. Ahooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of theclass for attaching together shoe4 up er and sole lip, the same having at least t e following movable stitching instruments, hooked curved needle, thread looper D, take-up F, thread hook E, channel guide B and feed device G, the feed device mounted to advance and recede along the direction of feed and to. reciprocate toward and from the work, and the other instruments mounted for coperative movements, and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an operating crank shaft 53 continuously rotatable during stitching, the same having a plurality of differently timed cranks, 56, 57, a plurality of pitmen crank-driven from said cranks, and connections from such pitmen to the stitching instruments, including rockL ing levers and links moving in planes perpendicuflar to the shaft. and constructedarranged and timed to operate in each"cycle to actuate the needle to make its advance and returnstrokes with a harmonic motion Vto penetrate the work and retract with a new thread loop, and to actuate the feed device to engage the work, and then advance vthe work while the needle is out of the work, and then disengage the Work and then recede, and to actuate coperatively the other instruments: the feed device connections including a slide rod 101 arranged parallel to said shaft and having the feed device G 4mounted thereon capable of reciprocation to and ,from the Work, and a bell crank 100 arranged with one arm capable vof sliding the rod for the feedand return movements and the other arm movable substantially at right angles to the movement of said rod.
28. A hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of the class for attaching together shoe upper and sole lip, the saine having at least the following movable stitching instruments, hooked curved' needle, thread looper D, take-up F, thread hook E, channel guide B and feed device G, the feed device and channel guide B both mounted to advance and recede along the direction of feed and to reciprocate toward and from the Work, and the other instruments mounted for coperative movements, and mechaanism for actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an operating crank shaft 53 continuousl rotatable during stitching, a plurality o pitmen crank-driven from said crank shaft, and connections from such pitmen to the stitching instruments, including rocking levers and links moving in planes perpendicular to the shaft, and constructed, arranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the needle to make its advance and return strokes with a harmonic motion to penetrate the work and retract with anew thread loop, and to actuate the feed device to en age the work, and then advance the work w ile the needle is out of the Work, and thendisengage the work and then recede, and to actuate coperatively the channel guide and other instruments.
29. A hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of the class for attaching together shoe upper and sole lip, the same having at least the following movable Stitching instruments, hooked curved needle C, thread looper D, take-u F, thread hook E, channel guide B and eed device G, each mounted for coperative movement in relation to the others, and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an operating crank shaft 53 continuously rotatable during stitching, a plurality of pitmen 61, 63,V etc., crank-driven from said crank shaft, and connections from such pitmen to the stitching instruments. including rocking levers and links moving in planes perpendicular to the shaft, and constructed, arranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the needle to make its advance and return strokes with a harmonic motion to penetrate the work and retract with a new thread loop, and to actuate the loo er to place a thread loop on the hook of t e advanced needle on each stroke, and to actuate the thread hook with a harmonic motion to take the thread between the looper and work and release the same after the loop is safely on the needle hook.
30. A hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sew.- ing machineof the class for attaching together shoe upper and sole lip, the same having at least the following movable stitching instruments, hooked curved needle C, thread looper D, take-up F, thread hook E. channel guide B and feed device G, each mounted for coperative movement in relation to the others, and for actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an operating crank shaft 53 continuously rotatable during stitching, a plurality of pitmen 61, 63, etc., crank-driven from said crank shaft, and connections from such pitmen to the stitching instruments, including rocking levers and links moving in planes perpendicular to the shaft, and constructed, arranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the needle to make its advance and return strokes`with a vharmonic motion to penetrate the work and retract with a new thread loop, and to actuate the looper to place a thread loop on the hook of the advanced needle on each stroke, and to actuate the thread hook with a harmonic motion to take the thread between the looper and work and release the same after the loop is safely on the needle hook, the needle and thread hook connections comprising a rocker driven by one pitman 63. a second rocker 81 driven by another pitman 61, link connections from both said rockers to the thread hook, and a connection from said rocker 70 to the needle.
31. A hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of the class for attaching toether shoe upper and sole lip, the same aving at least the following movable stitching instruments, hooked curved needle C, thread looper D, takeaip F, thread hook E, channel guide B and feed device G, each.
mounted for coperatve movement in relation to the others, and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments, compris` ing an operating crank shaft 53 continuously rotatable during stitching. a plurality of pitmen 61. 63, etc., crank-driven from said crank shaft, and connections from such pitmen to the stitching instruments, including rocking levers and links, moving in planes perpendicular to the shaft, and constructed arranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the needle to make its advance and return strokes with a harmonic motion to penetrate the work and retract with a new thread loop, and to actuate the looper to place a thread loop on the hook of the advanced needle on each stroke, and to actuate the thread hook with arharmonic motion to take the thread between the looper and work and release the same after the loop is safely on the needle look, the needle, looper and thread hook connections comprising a rocker 70 driven by one pitman 63, a second rocker S1 driven by another pitman 61, link connections from both said rockers to the thread hook, connections from rocker 81 to the looper, and a connection from said rocker 70 to the needle.
32. A hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of the class for attaching together shoe upper and sole lip, the saine having atleast the following movable stitching instruments, hooked curved needle C,
thread looper D, take-up F, thread hook E, channel guide B and feed device G, each mounted for cooperative movement in ref :lation to the others, and mechanism for in each cycle to actuate the needle to makeb its advance and return strokes with a harmonic motion to penetrate the work and reu tract with a new thread loop, and to actuate the looper to place a thread loop on the hook of the advanced needle on each stroke, and to actuate the thread hook with a har ironic motion to take the thread between the looper and work and release the same after the loop is safely on the needle hook, the looper and thread hook connections comprising a rocker 70 driven by one pitman 63, a second rocker 81 driven by another pitman 61, link connections from both said rockers to the thread hook, connections from rocker 81 to the looper.
33. A hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of the class for attaching together shoe upper and sole lip, the same havingr at least the following movable stitching instruments, hooked curved needle C, thread looper D, take-up F, thread hook E, channel guide B and feed device G, each mounted for coperative movement in rela-`V tion to the others, and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an operating crank shaft 53 continuousl rotatable during stitching, a plurality o pitmen 61, 63, etc., crank-driven from said crank shaft, and connections from such pitmen to the stitching instruments, including rocking levers and links moving in planes perpendicular to the shaft, and constructed, arranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate th'e needle to make its advance and return strokes witlxa harmonic motion to penetrate the Work fnd retract with a new thread loop, and tqactuate the looper'with a harmonic motion to place a thread loop on the hook of the advanced needle on each stroke, and to actuate the thread hook with a harmonic motion to take the thread between the looper and work and release the same after the loop is safelv' on the needle hook, and to actuate the take-up With a harmonic motion to take up the slack thread durin each advancing needle stroke and to give t read on the return stroke.
34. A hookcdmeedle chain-stitch shoe Welt sewing machine of the. class for attaching together the welt. upper and sole lip, the same having at least the following movable lil() stitching instruments, hooked curved needle C, thread looper D, take-up F, thread hook E, channel guide B, work feed device G. and Welt guide H, each mounted for coperative movement in relation to the others, and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an operating crank shaft 53 continuously7 rotatable during stitching, a plurality of pitmen 63, 65, etc., crankdriven from said crank shaft, and connections from such litmen to the stitching instruments, inclu ing rocking levers and links moving in planes perpendicular to the shaft, and constructed, arranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the needle to make its advance and vreturn strokes with a harmonic motion to penetrate the -Work and. retract with a new thread loop, and to actuate the welt ide to measure oil welt while the needle 1s in the work and to lay the measured welt against the work during the feed of the work, and to actuate coperatively the other instruments.
35. A hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe welt sewing machine of the class for attaching together the welt, upper and sole lip, the same having at least the following movable stitching instruments, hooked curved needle C, thread looper D, take-up'F, thread hook E, channel u1de B, work feed device G, and welt guide each mounted for 4cooperative movement in relation Ito the others, and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an operating crank shaft 53 continuously rotatable during stitching, a plurality of pitmen 63, 65, etc., crankdriven from said crank shaft, and connections from such pitmen to the stitching instruments, including rocking levers and links moving in planes perpendicular to the shaft, and constructed, arranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the needle to make its advance and return strokes with a harmonic motion to penetrate the work and retract with a new thread loop, and to actuate the welt ide to measure off welt while the needle 1s in the work and to lay theV measured welt against the work during the feed ofthe work, and to actuate coperatively the other instruments, such needle and welt guide connections comprising a rocker 7 O driven from pitman 63, connections from said rocker to the needle, and connections jointly from said rocker and pitman 65 to the welt guide. i
36. A hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewing machine of the class for attaching together shoe up er and sole lip, the same having at least yt e following movable stitching instruments, hooked curved needle C, thread looper D, take-up F, and work feed device G, each mounted for ooperative Vmovement in relation to the others, and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an operating crank shaft 53 having diferently timed cranks 56, 57, said shaft arranged laterali. behind the sewing point and continuous y rotatable during stitching, in combination with different'ly timed crank driven pitmen 61, 63, 64, 65,` fewer in number than the number of stitching instruments actuated therefrom, "and connections from such pitmen to the stitching instruments, including rockin levers and links moving in fore-and-a t planes perpendicular to the shaft, said pitmen, rocking levers and links being arranged in compact transverse juxtaposition, and constructed, arranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the hooked needle with a harmonic motion to advance and penetrate the work and retract with a thread loop, and to actuate the take-up with a, cooperating motion to take up the slack thread durin each advancing needle stroke and to give t read on the return stroke, and to actuate coperatively the other enumerated instruments.
37. A hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewing` machine of the class for attaching together shoe u per and sole lip, the same having at least tile following movable stitchin instruments, hooked curved needle C, thread looper D, take-up F, and work feed device G, each mounted for cooperative movement in relation to the others, and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments, comprisingan operating crank shaft 53 having differently timed cranks, said shaft arranged laterally behind the sewing point and continuously rotatable during stitching, in com bination with differently timed crank driven pitmen 61, 63,64, 65 fewer in number than the number of stitching instruments actuated therefrom, and connections from such litmen to the stitching instruments, including rockers 70, 81, and connecting links moving in fore-and-aft planes perpendicular to the shaft, constructed, arranged and timed to operate in each cycle to actuate the hooked needle with a harmonic motion to advance and penetrate the work and retract with a thread loop, and to actuate coperatively others of said instruments.
38. A hooked-needle chain-stitch shoe sewin machine of the class for attachin toher shoe upper and sole lip, the same aving at least the following movable stitching instruments, hooked curved needle C, thread looper D, take-up F, and work feed device G, each mounted for coperative movement in relation to the others, and mechanism for actuating said stitching instruments, comprising an operating crank shaft 53 having 'diferently timed cranks 56, 57, a rocker 70, a pitman` 63 on crank 57 for oscillating said rocker, a link connection from said rocker for actuating the needle with a harmonic motion to advance and penetrate the` work and retract with a
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