US128475A - Improvement in tuckers for sewing-machines - Google Patents

Description

UNITED STATEs PATENT OEEIcE.

THOMAS M. FARRAND, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

i IMPROVEMENT IN TUCKERS FOR SEWING-MACHINES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 128,475, dated July 2, 1872.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, THOMAS M. FAERAND, of Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improved Tuck-Folder and Guide for Sewing-Machines 5 and I do hereby declare that the following, taken in connection with the drawing which accompanies and forms part of this specication, is a description of my invention sufficient side elevation thereof'. C is an end view. D,

is a top view, showing the hemmer. E is an edge view of the hemmer. a denotes the main plate, the front edge b of which forms the shoulder, between which and the .folder the cloth is folded or turned. This plate is fastened to the sewing-machine top or work-supporting surface by a screw passing through a slot, c, said slot enabling the plate to be set at any requisite distance from the needle to determine the width of tuck. From this plate extends the tuck-folder bar or arm d, said bar being, preferably, narrower and thinnerthan the platea, and its bottom surface l[lush with the bottom surface of the plate. At the rear part of the arm it turns over and forms a bow,

e, its front end .fr bending down and lying against or nearly in contact with the part of the arm nearest the plate a, the end of the arm reaching nearly but not quite' to the edge, as seen at A. f denotes the tuck-gauge, the shank of which is fastened to the plate by a screw, g, passing through a slot, h, the slot permitting the lgauge to be set forward or back, in accordance with the width of the tuck om 'the edge of the cloth, (for the first tuck,) or

down, forming a guide-lip, ,which rests against the top surface of the arm a'. The cloth is rolled up and introduced into the bow e, and its edge is drawn through between the parts d w and out between the edge b and edge my, and is folded over the edge m and top w, during which operation the gauge f is not in place.

The edge having been thus folded over the gauge is drawn over the turned-over edge of the cloth; and the edge being carried forward to the proper extent for the distance of the tuck from the edge (the plate a having been previously set in accordance with the width of tuck required) the gauge is set so that the lip t' is in position against the edge of the cloth, and is fastened, and the cloth is then ready to be fed and the tuck stitched, the part of the fold nearest the edge m constituting the tuck. When one tuck is stitched the line of stitches or seam forms the guide which is held against the lip of the gauge f for the next tuck. If the successive tucks are to be of the same width, the

plate a is not moved, and if they are also to be equidistant an adjustable set-plate, n, may be employed, said platebeing moved up against the endo of the tuck-gauge f, and fastened before the gauge is moved, and the gauge being then moved in order to bring the .cloth into position for a new tuck the cloth is brought to such position, and the gauge is then set back into position; the sameposition and the consequent correctness of position of the new tuck being insured by simply bringing the end o against the set-plate n, no measurement being necessary. In tuckin g a piece tubular in form, as a skirt, it is very desirable to complete the stitching (or to stitch entirely around) without removing the work. The presence of the end m of the bar or arm 0o prevents this, and I therefore make the end of the bar as a slide or with a tongue, p, fitting and sliding into the plate a, as seen at C, the plate and bar being fastened together by a screw, k. When the piece is stitched, so that the first-made stitches reach the side of the bar opposite to the needle the screw k is loosened or removed, and the bar d is drawn out from the plate a far enough from the end b to clear the tuck fold. The stitching may then be completed, the guiding-edge m being in position, and also the lip t', if desirable. By wholly removing the bar d and retaining the spring-gaugef the plate c and gauge f may be used together as a self-sewer, the edge b being the guiding-Wall and the spring-gauge f serving to cause the edge of the Work to draw up toward and keep against the edge. In connection With the plate a and the bar d a hemming device7 q, may be used7 such device taking the place of the springgauge f. This hemmer is made With the slotted shank r, which is conned to the plate a by the screw g and with an edge-turning lip7 s, said lip being curled, so that the edge of the cloth is turned entirely under by it.

In using the hemmer, the edge of the cloth is drawn under the arm x and over its top, and the guide s is set at a distance from the edge equal to the Width of the hem to be made, the

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