US1215919A - Border-forming mechanism for fabrics. - Google Patents

Description

K W. P. DRUIVIHELLEH. BORQR FORIVIIING IVIECHANISIVI FOR FABRICS.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. 9. I9I5.

Patented Feb. 13, 191?.

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APPLICATlON FILED MAR. 9, 1915.

Patented Feb. 13, 1917.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

W. P. DRUMHELLER. BORDER FORMING MECHANISM FOR FABRICS.

APPLICATION FIL'ED MAR. 9, 1915- Patented Feb. 13, 1917.

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WILLIAM P. DRUMHELLER, OF SPRINGF IELD, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO THE WILLIAM CARTER COMPANY, OF NEEDI-IAM HEIGHTS, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPO- RATION OF MASSACHUSETTS.

BORDER-FORMIN G MECHANISM FOR FABRIC-S.

Application led March 9, 1915.

To all whom t may concern:

Be it known that I, VILLIAM P. DRUM- HELLER, a` citizen of the United States, and a resident of Springeld, in the county of Hampden and State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Border-Forming Mechanism for Fabrics, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like characters on the drawings representing like parts.

rllhis invention relates to border forming mechanism for fabrics, and in certain aspects thereof is an improvement on the invention disclosed in the patent to William i. Carter, No. 1,020,944, dated March 19, 1912.

In order that the principle of the invention may be readily understood, I vhave disclosed a single embodiment thereof in the accompanying drawings, wherein- Figure 1 is a side elevation, with parts in section, of one type of border forming mechanism embodying my invention;

Fig. 2 is a horizontal, longitudinal section upon the line 2-2 of Fig. l; y

Fig. 3 is a plan View of a portion ofthe mechanism shown in Fig. l;

Fig. 4 is a vertical, transverse section upon the line 4-4 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 5 is a vertical transverse section upon the line 5&5 of Fig. 1;

Figs. 6 and 7 are respectively an edge view and a plan view of the nger about which the loops or stitches are formed;

Fig. 8 is a detail representing in plan view a portion of the fabric with a cluster or shell of loops or stitches secured thereto and a portion of the tape o r ribbon inserted in position; and

Figs. 9 to 13 are Views somewhat diagrammatic indicating the various steps in the formation of the loops or stitches of the border, Fig. 13 being upon an enlarged scale.

Ornamental borders for knitted or other fabrics, such as undergarments, are well known. The patents to Merrow, No. 413,077, October 15, 1889, and No. 414,233, N0- vember 5, 1889, clearly disclose the same. The said borders are therein represented as composed of a series of clusters or shells, each consisting of a series of radiating or generally fan-shaped stitches formed by an Specification of Letters Patent.

`stitches or loops forming the ribs of Patented Feb. 13, 1917. Serial No. 13,255.

eye-pointed machine needle, a crochet hook or knitting needle and a hook for a supplemental thread. The clusters or shells are formed n Serienr/712, and the main and supplemental threads thereof are preferably continuous throughout the border. The the clusters or shells shown in said Merrow patent are laid along substantially true ra dial lines and extend in fan shape both to the right and left of a median line drawn from the center of the cluster to the edge of the fabric at right angles to said edge. In the patents to lVilliam H. Carter, No. 1,020,944,31211011 19, 1912, and N0.1,o72,3s0, September 2, 1913, is disclosed mechanism for producing a shell or cluster as a fabric border wherein the stitches or loops all tend in the same general directiom-that is, toward the right or toward the left as the observer looks toward the fabric; or wherein the threads or loops are so laid that the impression gained by the observer is that of a series of loops extending to the right or to the left, as stated.

Although the invention is of general application so far as certain features thereof are concerned, it particularly relates to the type of border forming mechanism disclosed in said Merrow patents, and more particularly relates to the type of border forming mechanism shown in said Carter patents, although in no wisc restricted thereto.

It has heretofore been proposed in forming ornamental borders forknitted or other fabrics, as shown in the patent to Bellis, No. 431,161, July 1, 1890, in the patent to Morrow, No. 542,830, July 16, 1895, and in the patent to North No. 965,001, July 19, 1910, to introduce a tape or ribbon into or with relation to the ornamental border, but so far as I am aware without practical success, owing to the fact that the tape or ribbon and the border fabric do not move through the stitch forming instrumentalities at the same speed, thus causing puckering or gathering of the goods. At the present time so far as I am aware, the tape. or ribbon is always inserted by hand after the formation of the ornamental border.

An important object of my invention is to provide means whereby the tape or ribbon may be successfully introduced and whereby after insertion the body fabric with its ornamental border' and the inserted tape or ribbon may be fed evenly past or away from the stitch forming instrumentalities.

In carrying ont my invention, I preferably employ a crochet or overseaming machine of the general type disclosed in the patent to Carter No. 1,020,944, although it is obvious that other means may be employed for producing the border referred to. The mechanism preferably employed includes an eye-pointed sewing machine needle, a crochet hook or knitting needle and a supplemental thread feeding hook.

Referring more particularly to the drawings, the f ame thereof is indicated at 1, the eye-pointed sewing machine needle herein represented as vertically reciprocable is indicated at 2, the crochet hook or 1Knitting needle at 3, and the feeding hook for the supplemental thread, preferably but not necessarily employed, is indicated at 4. These parts may be positioned substantially as indicated in the said Carter patents or as indicated in the said Merrow patents and may be operated as therein disclosed or in any other suitable manner. The presser foot is indicated at 5, is preferably spring pressed against the upper face of the fabric and is provided with the customary recess or opening for .the passage of the needle 2. The fabric to which the ornamental border is to be applied is introduced at the front of the machine or from the right, viewing Fig. 1, and is passed preferably in a step by step manner beneath the presser foot 5, the under face of which may be recessed from front to rear for the more free reciprocation of the fabric therebeneath as hereinafter described.

Vv hile in order suitably to feed the fabric to which the border is to be applied, I may employ any suitable mechanism, I preferably provide a feed slide 6 having a serrated or toothed edge T, the teeth whereof are inclined to the left as indicated in Fig. 1. The said feed slide G is attached to or forms a portion of the reciprocatory slide 8, indicated most clearly in Figs. 1 and 4 as mounted for reciprocation within a guide member 9 herein shown as substantially U-shaped in cross section. The said guide member 9 is pivoted at 10 to the framing of the machine, as indicated most clearly in Figs. 1 2 and 4. ln order to reciprocate the slide 8, I herein provide it with a. laterally extending pin 11 received in the forked upper end 12 of a feed arm 13 pivoted at 14 upon the framing of the machine.

I have herein represented my invention as applied to a type of ornamental border forming mechanism wherein a step-by-step forward feeding movement is imparted to the fabric and a comparatively slight rearward movement is imparted to the fabric followlng each forward movement, without, however, in any sense limitingthe invention toV such type of mechanism. This adjunctive rearward movement preferably employed is for the purpose of positioning the stitches of the shells or clusters in the manner already indicated. It is evident that any suitable means may be employed to this end. Preferably, however, I employ a gear wheel 15 loosely mounted upon a screw 16 tapped into the framing 1 of the machine as indicated at 17 in Fig. 4. Upon a shaft 1S is fast a pinion 19 meshing with and driving the said gear wheel 15. VFast upon said shaft 18 is an eccentric20 receiving an eccentric strap 21 of an arm 22 having a slotted pivotal connection 23 with the feed arm 13, whereby the latter is oscillated. In this manner, the feed arm and consequently the feed slide 6 are reciprocated in both directions. The extent of each forward feeding Amovement is herein indicated asV materially in excess of the extent of the adjunetive or rearward feeding movement. Upon a face of the gear wheel 15, I suitably secure or form a cani 24, shown in dotted lines in Fig. 1, adapted to underride and elevate periodically a roll 25 loosely mounted upon a lever26 pivoted at 27 upon the framing of the machine. rEhe free end of the guide member 9 has formed therewith or attached thereto a plate 28 adapted to rest upon the roll 25, and the periodic elevation of said roll therefore periodically elevates the feed slide to which is simultaneously imparted a feeding movement to fard the left, viewing Fig. 1 by the said eccentric 20 and arm 22. lVithin the scope of my invention any suitable number of cams 24 may be employed.

In order to eect the rearward feed of the fabric, whichV is done in the type of machine to which I have herein represented my invention as applied, Iprovide the gear wheel 15- witha cam 29, shown in dotted lines in Fig. 1, and having a thin edge or portion 30 which, inthe rotation of the gear wheel 15 in a clockwisedirection viewing Fig. 1, is periodically brought beneath the roll 25, and thereby momentarily elevates the same to effect the rearward feeding of the fabric,- that is, in a direction toward the right viewing Fig. 1.

lhe gear wheel 15'is inthe form of my invention herein represented driven 1n a clockwise direction, viewing FigLl, and the relation of the parts is VsuchV that vwhen the cam 24 engages and lifts Vthe roll 25, the eccentric 20 is moving the feed slide 6 and slide 8 toward the left, viewing Fig. 1. Therefore, the feed slide G when elevated into feeding relation to the fabric moves the same by means of kits teeth 7 a suitable distance forward or to Ythe left viewing Fig. 1. The continued rotation of the gear wheel 15 brings the cam 29 beneath the roll 25,

leaY

thereby again elevating the toed slide G. lllhen the iced slide 6 is momentarily elerated by the cam the eccentric QOhas non' reached such a position that it imparts to the feed lido 6 a movement to the right, l. Therefore, the momentary engagemc t of the edge 30 ot the cam effects a slight rearward movement ol" the fabric. As clearly indicated in Fig. l, the ieed slide 5l is also provided With saw teeth i" oppositely inclined With respect to the teeth 7 to effect the rearward feeding inoi'einent of the fabric. rillierefore, the cains 2e, act ugon the feed slide respectively synchronously with the opposed feeding movement oit the eccentric 20. The shell or cluster formed by tac herein disclosed niechsnisni may o` vioii. ly have any suitable c esired number ot stitches or loops. y an adjustment of the cams cooperating with the leed slide or by the employment ot additional cams, may, for example. rt ni clusters ot four, six or eight stitches, or more. That 'torni ot my invention herein represented is adapted to produce ornamental borders each shell ivhereot is composed ot eight stitches. desired, l iuay provide the edge oit the fabric with a double rouv of shells or clusters, not herein necessary fully to disclose. ln such event, however, the outer overlying row ot shells or clusters is fashioned as herein described.

At the front of the machine and in the line of feed of the fabric, l provide a erably removable forming hnger 3l, shown in detail in lligs. 6 and T, the edge `Whereof acts as a former about or with respect to which the loops or stitches are laid. This linger is preferably slid into the ivorlr tace of the machine and may be readily removed. The inner end 33 ot said linger is shoivn as extending son'ieiyhat to the left oi the needle viewing Fig. l, so that as the stitches are positioned by the needle, they are received by tl e narrowed, inner end of said linger.

ln forming the ornamental border, i erably employ a main or sewing thread 34 carried by the seiving eedle 2 and a supplemental thread 35 fed by the hoolr or guide e, though, Within the scope of my in rent-ion, the supplemental. thread need not be employee. l also preferably provide the crochet hooior sewing machine needle to which is imparted a reciprocatory moveieiit above and then beneath the tace oi2 the fabric and in substantial parallelism thereii'ith. rllhe needles 2, 3 may be operated in any suitable manner to impart the desired movements thereto. ln Figs. 9 to i3 inclusive, l have diagraminatically indicated a. single cycle of moi/'ement oit the needles 2, 3, ii'hereby one of the stitches or" a shell or cluster is laid, it being understood that cach stitch is made up ot tivo lengths or portions of thread constituting` a bight or loop. The operation in forming the s is substantially that indicated in the patents to Carter, Nos. 1,920,9ell and rThe cycle of operations is repeated a suilicient number or' stitches to com- L,ie shell is formed. ii a double border shed then after the fabric has been run once through the machine and a single series of clusters has been loriied in or near its edge, the fabric is run again through the machine and an outer series of clusters is formed in or upon ne inner series or betiveen it and the extreme edge and extends outward therefrom in the manner herein described.

Although my invention may be employed in connection ivitli the vformation Aof' ornamental borders other than that herein iiidicated, l have herein represented each shell or cluster as composed of a series of stitches (herein shown as eight). a certain number -whereof. as for example three, are laid when th. fabric is statioiiai'vthat is, al'ter it has l into a nev.T position following Y CA ce CD CD c:

n hoven Y formation of the preceding shell or clusr. Thereupon the fabric is moied slightly the rear in the manner already described and the remaining stitches of the cluster are laid or positioned. ln applying my invention to the feeding oil a tape or ribbon in connection with an ornamental border of such type, l preferably employ a forming nger, such as indicated at Figs. 6 and 7. The edge 3G of the linger 3l, which is the edge overlying the fabric and adjacent the sewing machine needle 2, is substantially straight and is made oit the full thickness of the linger. rlfhe forward portion of the inger is narrowed as indicated in Fig. i

gradually tapering to the point 33. The tapering portion 37 is preferably not aight. but is provided ivith a slight swell and it desired the under race oi' the 'linger is beveled or tapered olif slightly as indicated at 39 in Fig. 6. so that Will not be interfered .vith by thehool 4l. and to give more room for the stitches constituting the As the mechanism herein represented is l, stitches of each hell. boing those lettereiil il.. B and C in D, laid 'lien the fabric las been ted the preceding cluster or shell. l 0W- hese three stitches do not slide forward, idw-L10 '4.'. LS1 fm f are nolo in tir position as Aaie. i iese i heeupon the fabric is moved to the rear .ightly as described. so that the succeedl?, tl and il, radiate or extend 'from a noir center 7), which is very slightly to the clusters or shells.

uiusted. the first three di tre orivard to a ne position immediately tolto tie de cribed shape or the tinge; 3l.

aree stitches are laid from the center a.

ing threads the shell herein designated l?,

rear of the center c. (lbviously, however,

my invention is not limited in its application to machines intended to form any particular type of ornamental border, though preferably I employ the same in the formation of the border of the type herein shown, to which my invention is peculiarly adapted.

As already stated, it has heretofore been attempted to introduce a. tapeoi ribboninto an ornamental border, but without success in practical operation. Inasmuch as the tape or ribbon being free to slide through or with respect to the ornamental border, has not been fed evenly or positively therewith, there has resulted a puckering or gathering of the knitted fabric, because of differential movements of the tape or ribbon and the body fabric.

To overcome this objection is an important object of my invention. I have indicated at 40 in Figs. 1, 3 and S a tape or ribbon introduced in any suitable manner, as through a guide 41 in which the tape is positioned horizontally, and a guide 42 in which the tape is positioned substantially vertically, and a guide 43 indicated in section in Fig. 4, and which is of general U-shape, whereby the tape or ribbon is folded longitudinally. If desired, however, the tape may be introduced in an unfolded condition. In Figs. 3 and 8, the tape 40 is represented as positioned beneath the shells or clusters; that is, beneath the portion thereof that overlies the upper face of the fabric.

In order to insure the movement in unison of the body fabric 44 and the tape or ribbon 40, I provide means suitably located, but preferably in advance of the sewing instrumentalities to engage the tape or ribbon and preferably also the body fabric, thereby to impart a positive feeding movement thereto. Preferably this feeding mcvementis an intermittent one, inasmuch as the fabric itself is intermittently fed during the application of the ornamental border thereto. Vhile in order to accomplish this result I may provide any suitable means, I have found the following mechanism efficient for the purpose.

I have represented in Figs. 1 and 3 a feeding device at 45, it being herein shown as having a serrated under surface 46 and as of sufficient width to engage not only the ornamental shell or border and the tape or ribbon 40, but also a portion of the body fabric 44. If desired, as shown in Fig. 3, I may provide a prolongation 47 to prevent the work overriding the feeding device. The feeding device 45 is mounted upon an zii-m48 carried by two posts or plungers 49, 50, the latter being employed to prevent rocking movement of the arm 4S. rIhe post 49 at its lower end is provided with a loosely mounted. roll 51 and with a coil. spring 52 positioned above a collar 53, whereby said thereto by a pin 61, as most clearly indicated Y in Fig. 1. rI`he said lever arm 59 is at the side of the gear wheel 15 opposite that whereto' are secured the cams24, 9.9. At

the side of said gear Vwheel at which the p lever arm 59 is positioned is secured a cam 62 preferably carried by or formed with a disk 63 providedV with circumferentially eX- tending slots 64,64, whereby it may be adiustablysecured'by screws 65, 65 to the face of the gear wheel 15 in any desired `position of circumferential adjustment.

'Ihe foot 60 of the lever 59 is positioned in the path of rotation of the cam 62, whereby the latter rocks the lever 55, 59 upon its pivot 56, thereby depressing the lever armV 55 and permitting the coil spring 52 to depress the post or plunger 49, thus bringing the feeding device 45 into contact with the upper face of the body fabric 44, the ornamental border thereof and the tape or ribbon 40. 'Ihe feeding device 45 remains in engagement with the work for a length of time depending upon the contour of the cam 62 and the rate of rotation of the gear 'wheel 15. These factors may be varied within the scope of my invention. The period of feeding engagement is,however, preferably brief and preferably substantially corresponds to the forward feeding of the body fabric by the feed slide 6. Viewing Fig. 1, it will be noted that the cams 24k and 62 are so arranged upon the gear wheel 15 that at the time when the feeding device 6 is brought into feeding relation with the under side of the body fabric and imparts forward feeding movement thereto, the feeding device 45 engages the upper face of the worlr including the tape or ribbon 40 and imparts a positive movement thereto, thus insuring the unison movement of all parts of the work. If desired and within the scope of my invention, the feeding device 45 may engage vmerely the tape or ribbon 40.

In order to effect the feeding movement of the feeding device 45, I may employ any suitable means. Preferably, however, I provide means whereby said feeding device 45 is constantly reciprocated along the line of feed of the work, so that when depressed into engagement with the upper face thereof through the agency of the spring 52, the desired feeding movement is thereby imparted to the work. For this purpose, I preferably provide the following means.

The posts or plungers 49, are mounted for free sliding movement in sleeves 67 tightly fitting in a slide 68 mounted for reciprocating movement in the frame of the machine and confined in position by a plate 69 longitudinally slotted as indicated at 70 and held in position by screw 71. The upper portion of the frame of the machine is longitudinally slotte-d, as indicated at 72, to permit tie reciprocation of the arm 48 with the said slide 68.

The pin ll heretofore described as fixed in one end of the slide 8 and as engaged by the forked upper end l2 of the lever 13, also penetrates a link 73, the outer end of which is secured to the stud or post 74 fixed in the slide 68, as indicated most clearly in Fig. 2.

ln order to hold the guide member 9 and slide 8 in position to be engaged by the cams 24, 29, I preferably provide a coil spring 75, and in order to prevent the said parts from being unduly depressed when not acted upon by the cams 24, 29, I pref-- erably provide a lug or shoulder 76, as indicated in Fig. 4, to limit the downward movement of said parts and wherewith the roll may contact as indicated.

From the foregoing description, it will be evident that when the work is fed forward by reason of the engagement of the feed slide 6 with the under face thereof, the feedl ing device engages the upper surface thereof and particularly the tape or ribbon 40, thereby to impart an intermittent forward movement thereto. Thus, the body of the work and the tape or ribbon are fed or moved forward positively and in unison, thereby preventing any puclrering or gat-herin g of the work. When the cam 62 passes from beneath the foot of the lever 55, 59, the lever arm 55 is immediately lifted by the spring 57, thus elevating the plungers 49, 50 and lifting the feeding device 45 from engagement with the upper face of the work, as previously described, but permitting the constant reciprocation of said feeding device 45 to continue.

lNithin the scope of my invention any other suitable means may be employed to impart feeding movement to the feeding device 45, and l may substitute for the latter any other suitable device, whereby the object of my invention may be effected. Having thus described one illustrative embodiment of my invention, I desire it to be understood that although specific terms are employed, they are used in a generic and descriptive sense and not for purposes of limitation, the scope of the invention being set forth in the following claims.

Claims:

1l. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising, in combination, means to feed the body fabric, means including a forming finger extending longitudinally in the 'direction of feed of the body fabric and over and under which the loops forming a looped ornamental border are formed, means to apply a loose tape or ribbon adjacent said forming finger between the looped portion of said border and said fabric, tape or ribbon feeding means movable independently of said body fabric feeding means and positioned directly to engage the applied portion of said tape or ribbon between the loops of said ornamental border, and means so to operate said body fabric feeding means and said tape or ribbon feeding means as to cause the body fabric and the inserted tape or ribbon to move together without puclrering.

2. Border forming mechanism comprising in combination, means to feed a body fabric in one direction, means to feed the fabric in the opposite direction, means including a forming finger over and under which the loops are formed to apply a looped ornamental border thereto, means to position a loose tape or ribbon adjacent said forming finger between the looped portion of said border and said body fabric, whereby the positioned tape or ribbon has freedom of movement relative to the body fabric after positioning, and feeding means adapted directly to engage the positioned, loose tape or ribbon and thereby to feed the same.

3. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a sewing needle and a crochet hook, means to feed a body fabric, means including a forming nger located at the stitch forming instrumentalities and extending longitudinally in the direction of feed of the fabric and over and under which the loops forming a looped ornamental border are formed, means to position a loose tape or ribbon adjacent said forming linger between the 'looped portion of said border and said body fabric and positively acting tape or ribbon feeding means positioned posteriorly of said stitch forming instrumentalities and movable independently of said body fabric feeding means and adapted directly to engage the applied portion of said tape or ribbon between the loops of said ornamental border, and means so to operate said body fabric feeding means and said tape or ribbon feeding means as to cause the body fabric and the inserted tape or ribbon to move together without puckering.

4. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination, means to feed a body fabric intermittently in opposite directions, means to apply a looped ornamental border thereto, means to position a loose tape or ribbon between the looped portion of said border and said body fabric, and means to engage the positioned, loose tape or ribbon at a point beyond the stitching instrumentalitie's and to impart feeding movement thereto.

5. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising, in combination, stitch forming instrumentalities including a sewing needle and a crochet hook, means to feed a body fabric, a forming finger located at said stitch forming instrumentalities and over and under which the loops forming a looped ornamental border are formed in a series of clusters each composed of radiating loops, meansto position a loose tape or ribbon adjacent said forming finger between the looped portion of said border and said body fabric, and tape or ribbon feeding means positioned posteriorly of said stitch forming instrumentalities and movable independentlyY of said body fabric feedingy means, means to move said feeding means intermittently into engagement with the inserted tape or ribbon, and means so to operate said body fabric feeding means and said tape or ribbon feeding means as to cause the body fabric and the inserted tape or ribbon to move together without puckering.

'6. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination, two body fabric feeding means acting respectively at different times to feed a body fabric to different extents, means including a forming finger over and under which the loops forming a looped ornamental border are formed, means to position a loose tape or ribbon adjacent said forming finger between the looped portion of said border and said body fabric, and means adapted to engage the positioned, loose tape or ribbon and to feed the same in unison with the feed of the fabric thereby preventing puckering of said tape or ribbon.

7 Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination, feeding means to engage one face of a body fabric, means to apply a looped, ornamental border thereto, means to position a loose tape or ribbon between the looped portion of said border and said body fabric, and feeding means positioned at the other face of the fabric to engage the positioned. loose tane or ribbon between the parts of said border, and means so to operate both of said feeding means that said body fabric and positioned tape or ribbon are fed substantially in unison and without puckering of either.

8. Body forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination stitch-forming instrlnnentalities including a sewing needle and a crochet hook, feeding means to engage one face of a body fabric, means to apply a looped, ornamental border thereto, means to position a loose tape or ribbon between the looped portion of the border and the body fabric7 feeding means positioned at the Vother face of the fabric and positioned posteriorly of said stitch forming in-A strumentalities, means to cause the same intermittently to engage and to impart feeding movement to the tape or ribbon,V and means so to operate the feeding means of the body fabric that said body fabric and said tape or ribbon are fed together without puckerinff.

9. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination stitch-forming instrumentalities including a sewing needle and a crochet hook, feeding means inter` mittently to engage one face of a body fab- Y said body fabric and said tape or ribbon .y

are fed together without puclrering.

l0. Border feeding mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination, means to form upon a body fabric, an ornamental border consisting of a series of stitches in shell or cluster formation, means to impart an intermittent forward feeding movement to said body fabric, means to impart an intermittent rearward feeding movement thereto, means to position a loose tape or ribbon between said border and said body fabric, and means to engage and thereby to impart an intermittent forward feeding movement to said tape or ribbon.

ll. Border forming mechanism for fabrics vcomprisingin combination, means to feedka body fabric-in opposite directions to different extents. means to form thereon an ornamental border composed of a series of shells or clusters of stitches, said forming means including a forming finger over and under which said stitches are passed, means to position a loose tape or ribbon between said border and the body fabric, and'means to engage the positioned, loose tape or ribbon and to impart a positive feeding movement thereto.

l2. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination, means to form upon a body fabric an ornamental border consisting of a series of stitches in shell or cluster formation, means to impart an intermittent forward feeding movement to said body fabric, means normally to impart an intermittent, feeding movement of different extent thereto between said intermittent forward feeding movements, means to position a loose tape or ribbon between said border and said body fabric, and means to engage and thereby to impart an intermit- :comme tent, forward feeding movement to said tape or ribbon.

13. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination, means Vto form upon a body fabric an ornamental border' consisting of a series of stitches in shell or cluster formation, means to impart an intermittent forward feeding movement to said body fabric, means to impart an intermittent, return feeding movement thereto of lesser extent, means to position a loose tape or ribbon between said border and said body fabric, and means to engage the positioned tape or ribbon, and to feed the same intermittently with the intermittent, forward feed of the body fabric.

14. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination, means to form upon a body fabric an ornamental border consisting of a series of stitches in shell or cluster formation, means to impart an intermittent main feeding movement to said body fabric, means to impart an intermittent feeding movement thereto of an extent differing from that of said main feeding movement, means to position a loose tape or ribbon between said border and said body fabric and means periodically to engage the positioned, loose tape or ribbon and the adjacent portion of the body fabric and to feed the same forwardly.

15. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination, means to form upon a body fabric, an ornamental border consisting of a series of stitches in shell or cluster formation, said forming means including a forming finger over and under which said stitches are passed, means to position a loose tape or ribbon between said border and said body fabric, a feeding device for the positioned, loose tape or ribbon, means to move the same to and fro while out of engagement with the said tape or ribbon, and means periodically to move the said device into engagement with the positioned, loose, tape or ribbon whereby upon a movement of reciprocation it may .feed the tape or ribbon.

16. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination, means to form upon a body fabric, an ornamental border consisting of a series of stitches in shell or cluster formation, means to position a loose tape or ribbon between said border and said body fabric, a feeding device for the positioned, loose tape or ribbon, located above the body fabric, means to move said feeding device to and fro while out of engagement with said tape or ribbon, and means periodically to depress the same into feeding engagement with the positioned, loose tape or ribbon whereby upon a movement of reciprocation it may feed the tape or ribbon.

1i'. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination, means to form upon a body fabric, an ornamental border consisting of a series of stitches in shell or cluster formation, means to position a loose tape or ribbon between said border and said body fabric, a feeding device for the positioned, loose tape or ribbon, located above the body fabric, means to move the feeding device to and fro along the path of feed of the fabric while out of engagement with said tape or ribbon, and a cam to effect intermittent depression of said feeding device into feeding' relation to said positioned, loose tape or ribbon whereby upon a movement of reciprocation it may feed the tape or ribbon.

1S. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination, means to form upon a body fabric an ornamental border consisting of a series of stitches in shell or cluster formation, means to engage one face of the body fabric and to feed the same, means to position a loose tape or ribbon between said border and said body fabric, a feeding device for the positioned, loose tape or ribbon, means to reciprocate the same to and fro in unison with the feeding movements ofthebody fabric feeding means, means periodically only to move said device into eneagement with the said positioned, loose tape or ribbon at the face of the fabric opposite said fabric feeding device thereby to effect a feeding in unison of the body fabric and the inserted tape or ribbon.

19. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination, means to form upon a body fabric an ornamental border consisting of a series of stitches in shell or cluster formation, feeding means to engage the under side of said body fabric, means to position a loose tape or ribbon between said border and said body fabric, a feeding device for the positioned, loose tape or ribbon above the body fabric, means to move the same to and fro in unison with the feeding movements of the body fabric feeding means, means periodically only to depress the said feeding device into engagement with the positioned, loose tape or ribbon thereby to effect a feeding in unison of the body fabric and the inserted tape or ribbon.

20. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination, means to form upon a body fabric an ornamental border consisting of a series of stitches in shell or cluster formation, means to impart a forward feeding movement to said body fabric, means to impart an intermittent, subsidiary,

rearward movement to said body fabric,

means to position a loose tape or ribbon between said ornamental border and said bod v fabric, a feeding device for the positioned, loose tape or ribbon, means to reciprocate the same, and means periodically to move said feeding device into engagement with the positioned, loose tape or ribbon.

21.' Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination, means to form upon a body fabric an ornamental border consisting of a series of stitches in shell or cluster formation, inea s to impart a forward feeding movement to said body fabric, means to impart an intermittent, subsidia y, rearward movement to said body fabric, means to position a loose tape or ribbon between said ornamental border and said body fabric, a feeding device for the positioned, loose tape or ribbon, located above the body fabric, means to reciprocate the saune, and means to depress said feeding device into engagement with the positioncd, loose tape or ribbon at the periods of forward feed of the body fabric.

22. Border forming mechanism foi' fabrics comprising in combination, means to form upon body fabric an ornamental border consisting of a series of stitches in shell or cluster formation, means substantially at the stitch-forming mechanism to impart a feeding movement to the body fabric, means to position a loose tape or i'ibbon betiveen said ornamental border and said body fabiic, a feeding device for the positioned, loose, inserted tape lor ribbon located posteriorly of and relatively remote from the stitch forming mechanism, and distinct and separate from said feeding means at the stitch forming mechanism, means intermittently to move the same into engagement with the positioned, loose tape or ribbon, wherebyI the positioned, loose tape or ribbon is positively fed and means so to operate the body fabric feeding means and the tape or ribbon feeding means as to effect a substantially unison movement thereof.

23. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination, means to form upon a body fabric, an ornamental border consisting of a. series of stitches in shell or cluster formation, means substantially at the stitch forming mechanism t0 impart a forward feeding movement to the body fabric, means to position a loose tape or ribbon between said ornamental border and said body fabric, a feeding device for the inserted, loose tape or ribbon and the body fabric located posteriorly of and rela- .tively remote from the stitch forming mechanism, and distinct and separate from said feeding means at the stitch forming mechanism, means to nieve said feeding device intermittently into engagement with both the loosely positioned tape and the body fabric, whereby said positioned tape and the body fabric are positively fed and means so to operate the body fabric feeding means and the tape or ribbon feeding means as to effect a substantially unison movement thereof.

border consisting of a series of stitches in shell or cluster formation, means substan- J tially at the stitch forming mechanism'to impart a forward feeding movement to the body fabric, means substantially at the stitch forming mechanism to impart an intermittent, subsidiary, rearward movement to the body fabric, means toposition a loose tape or ribbon between said ornamental border and said body fabric, and a feeding device for the positioned, loose tape or ribbon and the bodyI fabric located in advance of and substantially remote from the stitch forming mechanism, and means intermittently to move said feeding device into engagement with the inserted, loose tape or ribbon and the body fabric.

Border feeding mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination, means to secure a. looped, ornamentalborder to the body fabric, means to apply a loose tape or ribbon between the looped portion of said border and said body fabric, and means in cluding a rotatable element, two cams carried thereby, a body feeding means controlled by one of said cams, and an inserted tape or ribbon feeding means controlled by the other cam, whereby the body and the inserted tape or ribbon are fed.

2G. Border feeding mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination, means to secure a looped, ornamental border to the body fabric, means to apply a loose tapeV or ribbon between the looped portion of said border and said fabric, a rotatable element having cams 2li and 62 on opposite faces thereof, means controlled by one of said cams to feed the body fabric, and means controlled by the other of said cams to feed the inserted tape or ribbon,

27. Border feeding mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination, means to secure a looped ornamental border to the body fabric, means to apply a loose tape or ribbon between the looped portion of said border and said fabric, a rotatable element having cams thereon, body feeding means adapted to engage the body fabric, inserted tape or ribbon feeding means adapted to engage the looped ornamental border and the inserted tape or ribbon, and means whereby said cams effect the engagement of said feeding devices with the body fabric, the looped ornamental border and the tape or ribbon.V

Q8. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination, feeding means to engage one face of a body fabric, means to apply a looped ornamental border thereto including a forming finger extending forwardly in the direction of the adjacent edge of the fabric and over and under which the loops forming a. looped ornalil() lll):

mental border are formed, means to position a loose tape or ribbon between the looped portion of said border and said body fabric, and feeding means positioned at the other face of the fabric to engage the positioned, loose tape or ribbon between the parts of said border and movable independently of the body fabric feeding means, and means so to operate both of said feeding means that said body fabric and positioned tape or ribbon are fed substantially in unison without puckering.

29. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination, feeding means to engage one face of a body fabric, means to apply an ornamental border thereto consisting of spaced sets of loops arranged in clusters and including a forming Enger extending forwardly in the direction of the adjacent edge of the fabric and over and under which the loops forming a looped ornamental border are formed, means to position a loose tape or ribbon between the looped portion of said border and said body fabric, and feeding means positioned at the other face 0f the fabric to engage the positioned, loose tape or ribbon between the parts of the said border and movable independently of the bodyl fabric feeding means, and means so to operate both of said feeding means that said body fabric and positioned tape or ribbon are fed substantially in unison without puclering.

30. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising, in combination, stitching instrumentalities including a sewing machine needle and a crochet hook, means to feed the body fabric including a forming finger located at the said stitching instrumentalities and extending longitudinally in the direction of feed of the body fabric over and under which the loops forming a looped ornamental border are formed, means to apply a loose tape or ribbon adjacent said forming finger between the looped portions of said border and said fabric, tape or ribbon feeding means movable independently of said body fabric feeding means and positioned posteriorly of such stitching instrumentalities and also positioned directly to engage the applied portion of said tape or ribbon between the loops of said ornamental border, and means so to operate said body fabric feeding means and said tape or ribbon feeding means as to cause the body fabric and the inserted tape or ribbon to move together without puckering.

3l. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination, stitching instrumentalities, means to feed the body fabric, means including a forming finger located at the stitching instrumentalities and over and under which the loops forming a looped ornamental border are formed, means to apply a loose tape or ribbon adjacent said forming finger between the looped portions of said border and said fabric, tape or ribbon feeding means movable independently of said body fabric feeding means and positioned directly to engage the applied portion of said tape or ribbon between the loops of said ornamental border, and means so to operate said body fabric feeding means and said tape or ribbon feeding means as to cause the body fabric and the inserted tape or ribbon to move together without puclering.

32. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising, in combination, stitching instrumentalities including a sewing needle and a crochet hook feeding means to engage one face of a body fabric, means to apply a looped ornamental border thereto, means to position a loose tape or ribbon between the looped portions of said border and said body fabric and feeding means positioned at the other face of the fabric movable independently of said first mentioned feeding means and positioned posteriorly of said stitch forming instrumentalities to engage the positioned loose tape or ribbon between the parts of said border, and means so to operate both said feeding means that said body fabric and positioned tape or ribbon are fed substantially in unison and without puckering of either.

In testimony whereof7 I have signed my name to this specication, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

WILLIAM P. DRUMHELLER.

Witnesses:

HAROLD SMALL, HELEN T. TRANT.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. G.

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