US1195825A

US1195825A - Moccasijj

Info

Publication number: US1195825A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1916-08-22
Anticipated expiration: 1933-08-22

Description

E. A. LLEWELLYN.

MOCCASIN.

APPLICATION nun MAR. 24. 1915.

Patented Aug. 22, 1916.

have invented certain new ERNEST A. LLEWELLYN, OF WILTON, MAINE.

MOCCASIN.

To all whom it may concern: 7

Be it known that I, Eaivnsr A. LLEwELLvn, a citizen of the Dominion of Canada, and a subject of the King of Great Britain, residing at Wilton, in the county of Franklin and State of Maine, United States of America,

I and useful Improvements in Moccasins; and I hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description thereof, reference be ng had to the accompanying drawings, which form part of this specification.

This invention relates to shoes or the like, and more particularly to moccasins; and the objects are to provide a moccasin or shoe of superior quality having a neat a nd attractive appearance and embodying In its construction a vamp including the composed of a single piece of leather or other suitable material secured to the sole of the shoe with its upper edge freeand continuous from heel to toe, and having an upper and toe-piece secured thereto by a seam, preferably a raised seam, extending around the shoe in such manner as to produce in the finished article a pliable shoe or moccasin that will be easy on the foot and comfortable to wear and will have an attractive and finished appearance, without the objectionable features which are incident to the gathering of the leather according to present methods of construction, which tend to make the shoe stiff and cause the raised seam around the toe to rip; these objectionable features being eliminated by my improved method of forming and sewing the vamp and other parts of the shoe or moccasin together.

The invention will first be hereinafter more particularly described. with reference to the accompanying drawings, which are to be taken as a part of this specification, and then pointed out in the claims at the end of the description.

In said drawings, Figure 1 is a perspective view of a moccasin embodying my invention Fig. 2 is a longitudinal sectional plan view of the same; the section being taken on a line below the seam which connects the vamp with the upper and toe-piece shown in Fig. 2,- Fig. 3 iepreseiits a plan view of a blank for a shoe or moccasin vamp and lower portion of the quarters of a shoe embodying my invention.

Referring to said drawings, in which the Specification of Letters iatent.

Application filed March 24, 1915.

quarters I Patented Aug. 22, 1916. Serial No. 16,627.

same reference letters corresponding parts in different views, the letter A may denote the vamp of a shoe or moccasin formed in one piece with the lower portion of the quarters, and B the upper in one or more sections extending around the shoe from the heel to a point in front of the usual ankle seam, where it is joined to a toepieee C having a tongue D secured thereto. Said parts B, C and D may be of the form shown, or of any suitable form and are secured to the upper free edge of the vamp and lower portion of the quarters preferably by a raised seam a extending entirely around the shoe, as shown. The vamp A consists of a single piece of leather or other suitable material extending completely around the shoe; the ends of said piece meeting at the rear of the heel where they may be sewed or otherwise secured together, and the joint or heel seam may be covered by a back strap E, suitably stitched to give a neat and finished appearance.

A blank for the singlepiece vamp is shown in Fig. 3 of the drawings, being cut from a piece of leather in approximately U-shapcd form and having the outer edge thereof cut away at several points, as shown to adapt the cut away portions to be sewed together and theblank to be bent upon itself and its outer edge turned in or under the foot and secured to the sole of the shoe in the manner illustrated in Fig. 2 of the draw ings, and to this end said outer edge has a V- cut f in each wing, the edges of which cut are to be sewed together and from this point said edge of one wing preferably extends in a straight line, as at to near the free end of the wing while the corresponding part f of the other wing is preferably concave, and at the other termini of these straight and concave edges a portion of the blank is cut away, as at f, in both wings, so as to leave a flap f, and a free end of reduced width.

The outer edge of the blank at the junction of the two wings is cut away so as to leave a preferably rounded portion or tip f to which, when the blank is bent upon itself, the adjacent edges of the cut-away portions 7" are sewed, while the edges of the two wings are brought together and secured by a seam or stitches along a line extending lengtlnvise of the shoe, as shown in Fig. 2, while the inner edge of the blank is left free for the attachment thereto of an upper are used to denote seetion or sections B and toe-piece whieh may be united by a raised seam a, said seam extending entirely around the shoe as shown. .\s will be seen, the in-turned edge of the blank is so formed that there is no gathering of the leather. or no leather to take in. as in the usual method of eonstruetion. in which there is usually a lot of leather to be gathered in. which makes the shoe stitl' and eauses the raised seam around the toe to rip, whereas my improvement. obviates the necessity for gathering the leather around the upper edge of the vamp as is usually neeessary in the manufacture of shoes or moceasins aeeording to methods in eonnnon use. The V-eut in each wing of the blank and the eut-away portions at each side of the tip f adapt the lather to he gathered so as to lit. over the sole and to lie smoothly under the foot. As will be seen the wing F of the blank. whieh forms the outside of the vamp of the shoe and eomes on the outside of the last is a little wider than the wing I and has a straight edge f where there is no leather to be taken in on the outside. exeept sueh as is taken in by the V-eut at that side from which point said straight edge slants toward the heel. while the eont'ronting eoneave edge ot the other wing F permits a gathering or taking in of the leather at that side so as to form an approximately straight seam from a point about midway ot the shoe to the tip f and makes the blank tit snug to the last. The outer edge of the blank is eut a 'ay at f to allow the heel to he lasted in without the gathering of too mueh leather in or around the heel. and is eut away at f" on both sides of the tip to adapt said edge to eome in on the bottom of the last, so that when the sole is sewed on the vamp the meeting line of these edges will eome inside of the line of l'astening that holds the sole on the vamp.

ln makiin the shoe. the edges of the V-euts are tirst stitehed together. then the heel seam is stitehed, then the bark strap E is stitehed on, and then a suitable eounter (l is stitehed in. The shoe is then stitehell up the bottom to the rut-away portions oil opposite sides of the tip 1" and then put on the last. and then the edges of the blank on opposite sides of the tip are drawn down and stitehed to the. tip, thus adapting that portion of the lower edge of the vamp to fit snugly and dispense with a seam and strap down the toe as heretofore employed. The toe-pieee G is then stitehed to the tongue 1), preferably by placing the lower edge of the tongue on top of the toe-piece so that the tongue will overlap the toe-piece, and the two parts may then be sewed together with lines of stitehiinf. as shown; the toe-piece, being laid on the last after the vamp is on, and then the upper B is laid on and these parts are sewed to the amp preferably by a raised seam extending eon'ipletel around the shoe. If desired, a sole of the (lomlyear type may he sewed on by sewing through the single sole pieee elose to the vamp. and a heel of about two lifts. thus making a low heel whieh will afford comfort to the wearer and lessen the danger of slipping.

In a moeeasin thus formed the leather along the upper edge of the vamp simply lays in the right place without the neeessity of forcing or gathering the same. and it has a tendeney to keep its shape more eorreotly and uniformly and to better advantage than in the ease of Vamps as heretofore construeted. and at the same time is more pliable than a moeeasin as ordinarily (7onstrueted. and also presents a more neat and finished app *aranee.

It will also be understood that in the manut'aeture of shoes or moeeasins embodying mv in\ention leather or any other suitable material may be employed. and in the appended elaims the word leather is intend d to inelude any suitable material.

llaving thus described my invention. what 1 elaim as new and desire to seeare by Letters latent is:

1. A. moeeasin or shoe eomprising a sole, a ramp including the lower part of the quarters eomposed of a single pieee of leather. said vamp having a tip with eut away por tions at each side thereof and a V-shaped eut at eaeh side of said cut away portions drawn and sewed together. said vamp extending eompletely around the shoe and having the lower edges thereof drawn and seeured together along a line extending from heel to toe lengthwise ot' the sole. and an upper together with a toe pieee seeured to the top edge of said vamp,

.2. A moeeasin or shoe eomprising a sole. and a vamp ineluding the lower part of the quarters eomposed of a single pieee of leather ut out in Ushaped form. a portion of the outer edge of one wing thereot' being straight and the eorrespomling portion of the outer edge of the other wing being eoneave, eaeh wing having a V-eut therein at the terminal of the strai ht or eoneaye edge fa 'thest away from the tree end ot the wing.

3. A blank for a moeeasin or shoe vamp eonsisting of a single piece of leather cut out in approximately U-shaped form. one wing being substantially a counter-part of the other and eaeh having a V-eut in the outer edge thereof, said edge being also slightly cut away at some distance from and between said V-euts to a point about midway of the blank so as to leave at said point a rounded portion or ti whereby said outer edge of the blank is adapted to he turned under and sewed to the so e ot the shoe. in such manner as to secure the edges of said wings together on a line extending lengthwise ot' the shoe with said tip turned.

under at the toe and secured to the adjacent cutaway portions or edges of said wings surrounding said tip.

4. A blank for a moccasin or shoe vamp consisting of a single piece of leather cut out in approximately Ushaped form, a portion of the outer edge of one wing being straight and the corresponding portion of the other wing being concave, each wing having a V-cut therein at the terminal of the straight or concave edge farthest away from the free end of the wing, said straight edge slanting from said V-cut toward the inner edge of the wing, each wing having the edge portion thereof at the other terminal of the straight orconcave edge cut away so as to leave the wing with a heel portion of reduced width; that portion of the blank between said V-cuts having its outer edge cut away so as to leave about midway thereof a rounded part or tip, adapting the edges of said cut-away portions to be gathered around said tip and sewed thereto by bending the blank upon itself, said tip being adapted .to be turned under and secured to the sole at the toe of the shoe;' the edges of the V-cuts being adapted to be sewed together and the outer edges of the two wings turned under and sewed together along'a line extending lengthwise of the shoe.

5. A blank for a shoe or moccasin con sisting ofa single piece of material of appr Ximately U-shaped form, each wing having a V-shaped cut in its outer margin and outer terminal cut away so as to leave a heel portion of reduced width.

(SXA blank for a moccasin or shoe vamp consisting of a single piece of material cut out in approximately U-shaped form, a portion of the outer edge of one wing being straight and slanting toward the inner edge of the wing in the direction of the free end of the wing and the corresponding portion of the other wing being concave.

7. A blank for a moccasin or shoe vam consisting of a single piece of material cut in approximately U-shaped form, a portion of the outer edge of one wing being straight and slanting toward the inner edge of the wing in the direction of the free end of the wing and the corresponding portion of the other wing being concave, each wing having the edge-portion cut away and slitted at its free end so as'to leave a short flap and a heel portion of reduced width.

8. A blank for a moccasin or shoe vamp consisting of a single piece of material cut out in approximately U-shaped form, the outer edge of one wing being straight for a portion thereof, and the outer edge of the other wing being concave for a portion thereof, each wing having a V-shaped cut therein at one terminal of said straight and concave portions, and having the edge portion cut away and slitted at the other terminal so as to leave a shortfiap and a heel portion of reduced width.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing as my. own, I affix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

E N ESTA. LLEWELLYN.

Witnesses:

C. N. BLANCHARD, GLADYS PARKER.