US1191499A - Method of making turned shoes. - Google Patents

Description

O. C: DAVIS. METHOD OF MAKING TURNED SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED APR. 5, I9I6- Patented July 18, 1916.

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METHOD OF MAKING TURNED SHOES.

aison.

T all whom it may concern Be it known that 3', Oscar: C. DAVIS, a citizen of the United States, residing at Brockton, in the county of Plymouth and State of Massachusetts, have invented new and useful Improvements in Methods of Making Turned Shoes, of which the following is a specification.

This invention has for its objectto pro- 0 vide a'turned shoe having a sole composed of a normally pliable material enabling the shoe to be easily and conveniently turned after the sole and upper have been secured together inside out, and to be subse uently 5 stiflened and rendered operative arti cially. The ordinary method of making turned shoes having operatively stiff soles involves the assemblage and securing together by stitches or otherwise of an upper turned inside out and a leather sole which is normally or inherently stifi and is softened and rendered flexible by moisture (the sole bemg in temper), theturning of the assembled parts while the "sole is in temper, and the subsequent restoration of the sole to its inherently'stifi' condition by evaporation of the tempering moisture, the sole being there'- fore stiffened naturally and not artificially. This method requires the employment of a leather sole, the natural stiffening of which requires a considerable length of time.

'the employment of a sole of such normal or inherent flexibility that the assembled upper and sole may be freely turned when the sole is in its natural condition, said sole be ing either of flexible leather, or of a fibrous leather substitute such as felt, the turning of said parts while the sole is in its natural condition, and the artificial stiffening of the sole after the turning operation, such artificialstifi'ening requiring less time than the natural stiffening of a leather sole.

Of the accompanying drawings forming a part of this specification: Figure 1 represents a transverse section showing the upper and sole of :1 turned shoe assembled and united inside out; Fig. 2 represents a view similar to Fig. 1, showing the assembled sole and upper turned right side out; Figs. 3 and 4 represent views similar to Figs. 1 and 2, the sole being reinforced by a welt strip. a The same reference characters indicate the same or similar parts inall the views.

My invention includes a method involving Specification of Letters Eatent. Pat t J ly 1 ,1915, Application filed 5.19111 1916. Serial No. e'acis.

In the drawings, 12. represents the upper and 13 the outer sole of a turned shoe. ,The

upper may beof leather orany other suitable material, and the sole is of a material which 18 normally or inherently so flexible that the upper and sole assembled inside out and united by stitches 14 or otherwise, as shown by Fig. 1, may be freely turned right side out, as shown by Fig. 2.

-The sole is provided with .a stiffening agent, which under certain conditions renders the sole suitably stiff forthe performance of its function, and under other conditions is inoperative, or in other words, has no stiffening effect, so that the sole all of its inherent flexibility.

The assembled parts are turned right side POSSGSSBS out, as shown by Fig. 2, while the stiffening I agent is inoperative, and the said agent is subsequently rendered operative, so that the sole is artificially stiffened and becomes im mediately operative as a suitably stifi shoe bottom. The nature of the stiffening agent depends on the material of the-sole.

When the sole is made of a chrome-tanned leather split, which is inherently flexible and is also porous, the stiffening agent may be a composition containing as its essential components a solid bitumen, su as elater- 1te or mineral rubber, and a bitumen which when fused possesses marked penetrative powers, such as ozocerite, these ingredients being combined insuch proportions as to give the composition a relatively low melting point, enabling it to be softened by a degree of heat which will not be injurious to the leather, say 180 F. more or less. A flexible leather sole thus treated, in which the stiffening agent is'softened prior to the turning operation, possesses all of its inherent flexibility. While the sole is in its inherently flexible condition the assembled" and united- V sole and upper are turned right sideout- After this operation the sole is artificially stiffened by the cooling and hardening of the stiffening agent.

VVhen'the soleis made'of a fibrous leather substitute such as felt, it may be impregnated with a stiii'ening agent consisting of or containing a suitable hydro-carbon such as Montan wax, so called, having a melting point of approximately 180 F. more or less. The stiffening agent is softened before the turning-operation, the assembled parts are turned right side out while the agent 1s soft and inoperative, and the sole is then artificially stiffened by the cooling and hardening of the stiffening agent.

. v I- do not limit myself to the above specified materials for the sole,'and may employ any other suitable stiffening agent which is inoperative under certain conditions to permitthe easy turning of the assembled parts, and becomes operative under other conditions to stififen the sole. A Welt strip 16. of leather or other suitable material may be interposed between the upper and sole, as indicated by Figs. 3 and 4, said strip being arranged to receive the fastenings which connect the upper and sole, and not only reinforcing the sole, but also increasing the thickness of its outer edge.

Thestifiening agent may be a composition including a metallic resinate and nitrate of cellulose, combined with camphor, or castor oil, or other material capable of combining With nitrated cellulose.

Having described my invention, I claim:

1. That improvement in the method of making turned shoes which consists in assembling and securing together an upper turned inslde out and a sole of normally flexible material provided with a stiffening agent adapted under certain conditions to render the sole relatively stiff, and under other conditions to become inoperative and render the sole flexible, turning the assembled parts while the stiffening agent is inoperative and the sole. flexible, and then subjecting the stifl'ening agent to conditions rendering it operative and thereby stiffening the sole. v I

2. That improvement in the method of making turned shoes which consists in assembling and securing together an upper turned inside out and a sole of normally flexible material provided with a stiffening agent adapted when cold to render the sole relatively stiff, and when heated to become inoperative and render the sole flexible, heat ing the sole to render the stiffening agent inoperative, turning 1 the assembled parts right side out while the sole is flexible, and then cooling the stiffening agent and thereby stiffening the sole.

In testimony whereof I have afiiXed my signature.

OSCAR C. DAVIS.

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