US1142741A - Method of making turn-shoes. - Google Patents

Description

P. l. WENTWORTH.

METHOD 0F MAKING TURN SHOES- APPLICATION FILED sEPT.a,1914.'

Patented June 8,1915.

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mssacnusnnrs, assrenon To UNITED suon MACHINERY COMPANY, 0F PAIEMEN, NEW JERSEY, A I(lORP0RAI'I01\T 0F NEWQ JERSEY.

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State of lllassaohusettsJ have invented een' tain new 'and useful Improvements in Methods of Making Turn-Shoes; 'and l ydo hereby declare the following Ito be a full,

clear,and exact description of the invention, such as vwill enable others skilied in the art to which it appertains'to maite and use .the same.

The present invention relates to an improved method of making 'turn shoes and more particularly to improvements in the method of imparting the desired shape 'to the shoe sole.

In the manufacture of turn shoes -as ordinarily ractised, the-shoes are irst vlasted and sew from the last and turned While in temper, and are finally re-'lasted to enable the sole to be beaten out to 'the-shape of the last and the various finishing operations to be properly performed. t'will be obvious tothose skilled in the art that after 'the shoe is turned and rc-lasted the margins of the sole will stand 'out from the Ilastand more particularly in Shanks having a pronounced transverse curvature, and as the last completely lls the shoe the margins .of the sole must be pulled down to the last in order to permit the opposite 'edges of 'the vamp to be x'brought into the proper relation to one'another. This causes a considerable strain to be exerted upon the upper when the shoe isre-lasted, and frequently the upper stock is .unable to withstand the strain of pulling the margins of the sole into place, causing the upper to stretch and distort the shoe. This is especially true in the case of shoes having high, arched Shanks in Which a greater transverse curvature is imparted to the sole, and if the sole is later beaten out or leveled by hand or machine to impart the proper transverse curvature, a slack is produced in the upper at the'points of ,greatest strain, which seriously impairs the ln isliod appez'xrauce of the shoe. It has been attempted to remedy this condition by molding the sole after the shoe has been turned and partially or Wholly dried out, but thls method is objectionable as the heavy pressure necessary to mold the sole frequently without stretching Wrong side out, arenext removedv breaks the grain :of thesole, weakenir'rg it,v andmarringthe iinishedzappearance.

'The object 'of .the .present inventiony listo provide `an .improved turn shoes which enables the sole :to conform closely to the lines of the last sit all points the upper or A'otherwise distorting 'the true lines ofthe shoe.

With ofbyect in view a feature of the invention consistsin makingthe shoe Wron -vside out upon a last, turning the shoe o the 'lasumolding-the sole of theshoe-tothe -nished shape while the shoe is in temper,

and dually rte-lasting the shoe.

In the accompanying drawings illustrating the @prefer-red form of apparatus for practising the-improved method; Figure 1. represents a section in elevation .of the ycooperating sole .molding Ifomns with a shoe inserted etween them at'the commencement of the pressing operation; 2 is :a view similar to lshowing ythe forms in a position of premure with the sole clamped between them and illustrating 'the manner in which the sole is'molded; yand Fig.' 3 'is a side elevation of `the forms with the shoe supported between them and illustrating 'the manner in which ythe forms bear upon the sole longitudinally.

With the usual methods of manufact/,ure employed the upper l is first lasted kto the sole 2 in the usual manner and secured by aline of inseam stitches indicated at A3. 'The shoe is then removed from the last and tempered with Water to :render the soles flexible and permit the shoe to be turned with facility.

It Will be obvious to those skilled in the art that the initial transverse curvature of the sole is the reverse of that in the finished shoe and in thefordinary method of manufacture the sole is Shaped to a proximatelyl the final curvature by placing t the last after the turning operation has been completed and drawing the opposite edges of the upper together to pull the margins of e shoe upon the sole down to the last. This causes a conf the sole is still in temper it is positive molded to the desired curvature thus enabling the shoe to be later re-lasted and upper fastened properly without the nece' ot straining upon the upper to pull oplace. ln the preferred method` stiliening member is inserted in rid the sole is positively molded stiffening member between two are designed to engage the sole hem and impart the desired curva- 'the stiiening member in position oe. To this end after the shoe has been turned and a shank stidener 5 inserted, Sie shoe is placed upon a supporting,` form 6, and a cooperating pressing form 7 is actuated to engage with the opposite face or' the sole and cause the sole to be molded between the two forms, as shown clearly in Fig. 2. will be observed from an inspection of l 'that the pressing form 7 irst engages with the margins of the sole and as the movement of the pressing form continues toward the supporting form the margins of the sole are pressed downwardly'and the entire sole is stretched transversely, the `pressing form gradually contacting with an increasing area of the sole until it reaches the pressing position shown in Fig. 2. ln order to prevent the breaking of the stitches when the two forms are in pressing position th supporting form 6 is arranged to engage and support the s roe between the two opposite lines of inseam stitches, as shown clearly in llig. 2, thus avoiding the application of a direct .sure upon the lastenings. By moldjg the sole in this manner while in temper the proper curvature may be imparted to\it` without breaking the grain oit' the soie sind, furthermore, the sole is irinly set 4without any tendency to straighten out durthe redasting operationE aaai is claimed is:

l. A method of making turn d shoes which shoe wrong side out comprises lasting the the shoe from the `last upon a last, removing and turning the shoewith the sole in tem the shoe to the iinper, molding the sole of ished shape While the sole is in temper, and inally1 re-lasting the shoe.

2. A method of making' turned shoes which lcomprises making' the sho/'e wrong side out upon a last, removing the shoe from the last and turning the shoe with the sole in temper, insert-ing a stiioiening member and molding,I the sole to the inal shape While vthe sole is in temper, and iinally re-lasting the shoe.

S. A method of making turned shoes which comprises lasting the shoe, turning the shoe While oil the last and with the sole in temper, applying pressure to the sole in a manner to stretch it transversely and impart the final curvature while the sole is in temper, and iinally re-lasting the shoe.

e. A method of making turned shoes which comprises lasting` and sewing the shoe wrong side out upon a last, turning the shoe while oli the last and with the sole in temper, molding the sole while still in temper to the desired curvature by a direct pressure applied between, the lines of inseam stitches-5 and finally reflasting the shoe.

' PEARL J. EVENTWORTH.

lVitnesses z BURTON W. CARY, MAY A. HURLEY.

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