US1076878A - Sewing-machine. - Google Patents

Description

A.BPPLER. SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 27, 1911.

1,076,878. Patented 00t.28,1913.

6 SHEETS-SHEET l.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 27, 1911.

v o I I .i /0 3 19 0 2/ 7\ /7 wines-ses- (O X Inventor.- m

K-WWOM COLUMBIA pLANounAPn cm,

Patented 001128, 1913.

6 BHEETS-SHBET 2.

iffy. 2.

A. EPPLER.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLIUATION FILED JULY 27, 1911.

1,076,878. Patented Oct.28,1913.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

wLUMBIA PLANOGRAPH 60.. WASHINGTON. D c,

A; 'EPPLER.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION IILED JULY 27, 1911.

1,076,878. Patented 0015.28, 1913.

e SHEETEr-SHEET 4.

haven/ton.-

A. EPPLER.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 27, 1911.

Patented Oct. 28, 1913.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 5.

COLUMBIA PLANOCIRAPH 60., WASHINGTON. D, c.

A. BPPLER.

SEWING MACHINE. APPLIUATION rnmn JULY 27, 1911.

1,076,878. Patented Oct. 28, 1913.

hfiinesses: Inventor ha WA) m @z 2 Kin. M0M 4 'nivirnn sTArEs PATENT OFFICE.

ANDREW EPPILER, OF LYNN, MASSACHUSET TS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE IVEAGHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JEBfiEY, A GOrBPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

SEWING-MAUHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Oct. 28, 1913.

Application filed July 27, 18. Serial 1%. 640,836.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that l, ,hninnnv EPPLER, a

citizen of the United States, residing at Lynn, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new d useful Improvements in Sewing- Mechines; and do hereby declare the following to he a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it apperta-ins. to make and use the same.

'lhe invention relates to welt sewing 111achines such as are used the manufacture of boo-ts and shoes, and more particularly to devices for severing the welt at the comple tion of the sewing operation, and holding the severed end in proper position for attachment to a shoe at the beginning of the next sewing operation, and to devices. cooperating therewith.

lllelt severing end holding devices as heretofore constructed have been arranged to sever the welt a; predetermined point beyond the-welt guide, and have been operated to release the severed end of the welt the needle has drawn the first loop of thread through the work, and before the initial feed oi the work takes place. With this construction. and mode of operation the welt is liable to be drawn away from the shoe when the welt guide is Withdrawn preparatory to the feed of the shoe, and especially in machines like the Goodyear turn and welt machine, in "which the welt guide is; withdrawn after the needle has been retracted and. is held in its. rearward position during the feed 7 it is accordingly one object of the invention to provide welt severing and holding devices haw-ring anovel and improved construction and mode of operation wherehy the proper attachment of the end of the welt to the shoe is insured.

To this end one feature of the invention contemplates the provision in o welt sewing machine oi welt severing and holding devices which continueto hold the end of the welt clearing est the machine so that the welt is held against displaeei-nent in e uniformly reliable nianner until its end has been secured to the shoe. In this construction the welt holding devices remain in engagement with the weltdnring at least the initial teed of the shoe,

end they are so mounted that they movewith the shoe din-111g its feeding movement and nmintein the welt in proper position with re lation to the shoe, and insure the proper drawing of the welt through the welt guide when the guide is retracted and during the teed of the shoe.

Further feetures of the invention relate to theconstruction and mode of operation oil the devices which determine the extent to. which the welt may be drown forward in reinowing the shoe preparetory to severing and holding the welt, and to the construetion of the devices for severing and holding the thread.

The. various features of the invention will be: nnderstood from an inspection of the accompanying drewings and the following doteiled description of the mechanism illustrated therein.

In the drewings Figure 1 is a. left-hand side elevation of o welt and torn sewing niachine embodying the various features of the invention in their preferred forms; Fi 2 is: at front elevation of the machine; Fi 3 is a. detail sectional elevation showing a part of the welt severing and holding devices; Fig. 4: is a plan view showing the welt severing on" holding devices, parts of the machine being broken away or omitted for the sake of clearness; Fig. 5 is a. detail plan view showing the mechanism for rendering active the devices for determining the extent to which the welt is withdrawn in removing the shoe Fig. 6 is: a plan view partly in section showing the welt holding and seven devices in advanced position; Fig. 7 is e sectional elevation on line 7 4", Fig. 6; Fig. 8 a vertical sectional view on line 8-8, Fig. ill; Fig. 9 is a vertical sectional view tllirough the devices for determining the forwrn'd niovcniei'rt oi the welt; Fig. 9 is a deteil: sectional View on line 9--9, Fig. 7 Fig. 10 is a sectional view on. line 1:0--16), Fig. 9; Fig. 11 is a detail front view of the devices: for severing and heldthe thread; and Fig. 152 is a sectional f elevation online 12-l2, Fig. 11, looking in jthe direction of the arrow.

lea-st one cycle of operations In the drawings the invention is shown einbeched 1n the welt and turn sewing machine shown and described in my prior up 1- plieetion Serial No. 4.4%,;42, tiled ilrugust 8, "1908.. This machine 18 provided with the jcurved hoot needle 1. the leoper 2, the

thread liaiger 3, the feed point l, the channel 5 guide 5, the. welt guide 6, and the heck gage 1 a which are operated in the well known manner to unite the insole, upper and welt by a chain stitch seam.

The devices for severing and holding the welt comprise the welt gripping jaws 8 and 9 and the welt severing knife 10 which are held in retracted position during the sewing of the shoe, and are advanced to sever and hold the welt after the sewing operation has been completed and the machine has been brought to rest with the stitch forming devices in position for the removal of the shoe. The welt holding jaws are carried upon the front end of a bar 11 mounted to slide in a carrier arm 12 which is mounted to swing about a vertical shaft 13. The shaft 13 is mounted in a bearing in a fixed bracket 14, and the carrier arm 12 is held in normal position against a stop 15 by a spring 16. The upper jaw 8 of the welt holder is formed by the projecting front end of the bar 11, and the lower jaw 9 is formed on the front end of a lever 17 pivoted to the bar by means of an eccentric pivot 18 which may be turned to adjust the jaw 9 with relation to the jaw 8. The bar 11 is recessed to form a guide for the knife carrying bar 19, to the forward end of which the knife 10 is secured. The knife carrying bar is provided at its forward end with a cam surface 20 arranged to engage the rear end of the lever 12 and actuate the lever to close the welt holding jaws. The rear end of the lever 17 is slotted at 21 to form a spring arm 22 so that the jaw 9 is yieldingly forced against the welt.

The gripper carrying bar 11 is advanced and retracted through a gear segment 23 secured to the shaft 13 and engaging a rack 24 formed on the bar. The cutter carrying bar 19 is independently reciprocated by a pinion 25 secured to the shaft 13 and engaging a rack 26 formed on the bar. The shaft 13 is rocked to advance and retract the welt holding jaws and cutter through a reciprocating rack bar 27 arranged to engage a pinion 28 secured to the upper end of the shaft 13. The rack bar is actuated through a bell crank lever 29, one arm of which is connected through a rod 30 with a treadle (not shown), and the other arm of which is connected with the bar 27 by means of a pin 31 engaging a slot 32 in the arm. The gripper and cutter carrying bars are held in retracted position by a spring 33 connected with the bell crank lever 29. hen the bars are in this position the lower jaw of the welt gripper is held in open position by the engagement of the rear end of the lever 17 with a fixed cam lug 34.

\Vhen the welt is to be severed and held, the operator depresses the treadle connected with the rod 30, thereby raising the rod and rocking the shaft 13 in a direction to advance the gripper and cutter bars. The bars move forward in unison until the jaws of the welt holder have passed on opposite sides of the welt, and the guard 35 on the lower jaw has engaged the inner edge of the welt. When the gripper bar reaches this position the teeth of the gear se ment 23 pass from engagement wit-h the teeth of the rack 24, and the bar is neld locked in position by the engagement of a locking segment 36 formed on the gear with a locking segment 37 formed on the bar. During the continued movement of the shaft 13 the gear 25 continues to advance the cutter bar 19. During the first part of the advance movement of the cutter bar with relation to the gripper bar, the cam 20 on the front end of the cutter bar actuates the gripper lever 17 to close the jaws of the gripper, and then during the continued forward movement of the cutter bar the knife 10 acts to sever the welt. The parts are now in the position indicated in Fig. 6 and in dotted lines in Fig. 4, with the welt holding jaws firmly gripping the severed end of the welt supply beyond the welt guide and holding it in proper position for attachment to a shoe at the beginning of the next sewing operation. The parts are held in this position by a latch 38 pivoted to the bracket 14 and arranged to engage the front end of the actuating rack bar 27 when this bar is in its retracted position. The latch 38 is drawn yieldingly forward into position to'engage and hold the rack bar 27 by a spring 39. At the beginning of the sewing operation upon the next shoe, the

welt holding jaws continue to hold the end of the welt until after the welt guide has been withdrawn from the shoe and until the initial feed of the shoe has been completed, and during the feed of the shoe the arm carrying the cutter and gripper bars is swung about the shaft 13, so that the welt holding jaws move forward with the shoe and hold the end of the welt in proper relation to the shoe, and also drawthe welt through the welt guide so that all danger of displacing the welt is avoided. In the construction shown, the carrier for the welt holding gripper is actuated to move the gripper with the shoe during the initial feed through connection with the feed slide 40 which carries the awl and channel guide. As shown, this connection comprises a bar 41, one end of which is adjustably secured to the feed slide through a split bearing and clamping bolt 42 (Fig. 1) and the other end of which is provided with a depending finger 43 arranged to cooperate with a yielding dog 44 carried by the gripper bar. The dog 44 is pivoted on the gripper bar and is held in normal position by a spring 45. This yielding dog is provided in order that the welt holding gripper may not be moved laterally by the slight forward movement of the feed slide which occurs upon starting the machine prior to the initial advance movement of the needle.

tweets when the intrelnne is *breu ie to at the completion "of thbltietti-t (in "with 1 the pa-its 'in positi-on *Eorthe removal er the 1 slice, thefteed slide "is mushy in siich p'ositieh tha t it will more femurs sligh the machine is started. t hth the y when is advanced th "bring the or of the finger. whentheimmme is started j testing 1 4 4. when the feed slide given its slight, l I l forward inoi' eiiie1it, ljiit hn t heret-rii iino'vey to the 1 er jja'sses 3 to the "right "oi the dog so that the dogsnaps up into position in front '0 "the fin ger. Now during the advahee increment oi the teed slide in giving the initial feed to 3 the shoe, the finger eShearsagainst the side Q the finger still rides on the top ment of the teed "slide, jire'parato initial feed of the sl1ti'e, tlie "ii 7 of the dog .1- and swingsttemm '12 about the shaft IS, thus 'hioying the welt holding release the actuating rack berg? The parts are soadiusted that thorelease of the rack berth-hes place as th effeed oi theshoe a completed, and the spring 33 acts to rock the shaft 13 and retract'th'e gripperand Clittter bars. During this inci ement of the rock I shaft 13 the Qear fZS first detracts the cutter independently otthe gripper bar, and then 1 the cutter and gripper bars are moved in unison. to their rearward position. The movement of the cutter bar with relation to the gripper bar causes the cam 20 to re" lease the jaw 9 of the gripper so that the gripper inay swingaway troni the welt, and during the return nieyenient'ot the gripper bar the end of the gripper lever 1'7 rides up the cam lug 34: so that the jawf) is positiyelyopened. The return lllOVQlliBIlt-Of the gripper bar also Withdraws'the dog 41 i "liroin engagement with the finger 43, mum the carrierarin 24 is free to bereturned to normal position against the stop 15 by the spring 16. This brings the parts into their edslide is posiftidn, the sheer is the qih th ett thec ldg Mwhenthetgfiiifier carrying bai' re Welt j holder into position to grip the dwelt, and Y the 44 yields "ttnd rides under the end 1 Jews with the shoe during its initial feed. L During this incvenient o'fthe'carrler arm 12 1 the lug onthefsid'e oftlie arinengages "an 1' usting screw ipcarried by the 'lateh lever 38, and swings the latch 38 in a -direction to g iihi-ni-ng or liin'i nigthe *forthe welt are rendered operati'en hy the rese niovemesrrm ted to the cam shaft (s? the mschiiie in i'reeing' the needle teeth the 16015 and bringing the parts in'th posi: tron ttdr t e removal oi the shoe, and are rendered at iv'e the forward movement (it the cahi shaft at the beginning 'ot the next sewing operation. The devices "are thus rendered active at the proper time n th'cut any attentien or care on the part he o 'aeratciigitnd "reinadtiveduring the leper-anon of the machine.

hown, e Welt W led to the Welt guide ot er "L 1 e-pulley 5L8 which is mountedto t1 n "freely ens controlling or ineasun iir'g sleeve The sleeve 3:9 is mounted npon a fixed stud 50 and carries a clamping jaw adtt itfed to engage and clamp the welt agaihst he pulley 4:8. The clamping jaw 51 iscarriedbn tine arm ofa bell crank lever 52, he otherarni of which is arranged to be engaged by tlieend of a plunger 53 nieunted within *the stud 50. The clamp is held normallyout "of'engagelnent with the welt by a spring 5'4. The movement of the measuring sleeve lflonthe stud 50 is limited by a stop pin steeds-ed to the sleeve and Le-ranged to play within slot 56 formed in a stat-ieiiary disk 57. The disk is held in fixed pesitienbetween a shoulder on the stud 50'trndthesurfaced?the braokethS in which the stud is mounted. The stop pin is held normally in engagement withone'end oithe slot56 by atorsionalspring 59, one end of which is'connectedto a flange on the end of thestiid, and the other cnd or which is conne'cted with the measuring sleeve. The clanip actuating plunger 53 is formed in two sections separated by a spring 00 which may yield as the plunger is advanced in forcing;- the clamp against the Welt. The rear "end of "the plunger is engaged by a Cttin shoe 61 adjustably secured to the rear end of an arm 62 by a set screw 63. The EII'I lTGQ is carried by a rock shaft (54E which elso'carries an arm 65 arranged to be en i rag'edand operated by the lever 66 through which the tension is thrown off when the 111: chine is reversed at the end of the sewing; o ieration. The lever 66 carries an arm 67 provided "with bearing surfaces 68 and. 69 which are adapted to bear against a disk on the earn shaft 70 of the machine. The disk is provided with an actuating" notch 71 which en-ga ges the shoulder between the bean ing surfaces 68 and (39 when the inachine is reversed, and forces the arm 67 back, thus roclting the bell cra nk lever 66 to throw oil This movement of the plunger rocks the bell crank lever 52 and forces the clamp 51 against the welt, and thus connects the welt and pulley 48 with the measuring disk 49, so that these parts are held against relative movement. Now when the shoe is drawn forward to draw the welt through the welt guide, the measuring sleeve 49 is rotated against the tension of the spring 59 until the pin 55 engages the end of the slot 56,

when further advance movement of the welt is prevented. The length of the slot 56 therefore determines the extent to which the welt may be drawn forward in removing the shoe and bringing the welt into proper position for the operation of the welt severing and holding devices. hen the machine is started, the arm 67 is swung into normal position as indicated in Fig. 1, and the lever 61 is swung away from the end of the plunger 53 so that the welt clamp is released and is disengaged from the welt by the spring 54. The measuring sle vs 49 immediately returns to normal position under the influence of the spring 59, and the welt is free to pass over the pulley l8 and the pulley is free to rotate about the measuring sleeve during the sewing operation.

The devices for severing and holding the thread after the welt has been severed consist of a spring clamping plate 72 and a knife T3 projecting from the plate. The clamping plate is secured to the looper 2 and cooperates with the surface of the looper in clamping the thread, as indicated in Figs. 11 and 12. After the welt has been severed, the shoe is manipulated by the operator to carry the thread between the plate 72 and the surface of the looper, and then by a downward movement of the shoe the thread is carried across the edge of the knife 72 and severed. The knife 72 is so arranged that a short length of free thread is provided beyond the clamping plate. During the initial loop drawing stroke a part of this free thread will be drawn through the holding device, and the free end of the thread will therefore be held under tension during the drawing of the loop, and thus a tight initial stitch will be formed.

When the parts are in the proper position for the removal of the shoe, the thread finger is in substantially the position indicated in Figs. 11 and 12, and the thread is liable to pass up the shank of the thread finger when it is carried up into the thread holding device. If this should occur the thread finger would not operate properly upon the thread in forming the first stitch. In order to in sure the proper engagement of the thread finger with the thread, the finger is provided with a spur or projection 74 under which the thread passes, and which operates to retain the thread in proper position with relation to the thread finger, and insures the proper action of the thread handling devices when the machine is started.

lVhile it is preferred to employ the spe cific construction and arrangement of the parts shown and described, it will be understood that this construction and arrangement is not essential, and may be varied or modified without departing from the broader features of the invention.

Having explained the nature and object of the invention, and specifically described one form of machine in which it may be embodied, what I claim is l. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, devices for severing and holding the welt at the comple tion of the sewing, and means for maintaining the holding devices in engagement with the welt during at least one cycle of operations of the machine at the beginning of the sewing operation, substantially as described.

2. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, welt severing and holding devices, mechanism for actuating the devices to sever and hold the welt at the completion of the sewin operation and to hold the end of the welt diving at least the initial feed of the work at the beginning of the succeeding sewing operation, substantially as described.

3. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, welt seven ing means, welt holding devices for holding the end of the welt, mechanism for operating said means and devices to sever and hold the welt at the completion of the sewing, and means for moving the holding devices with. the shoe during the initial feed of the shoe and for disengaging the holding devices from the welt after the end of the welt has been secured to the shoe, substantially as de scribed.

4. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, welt'severing and holding devices mounted for movement with the shoe, and means for operating the devices to sever and hold the welt at the completion of the sewing operation, substantially as described.

5. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, welt severing and holding devices mounted for movement with the shoe, means for advancing and actuating the devices to sever and hold the welt at the completion of the sewing operation, and mechanism for automatically disengaging and retracting the devices after the end of the welt has been attached to the shoe, substantially as described.

6. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, welt severing and holding devices mounted for movement with the shoe, means for advancing and actuating the devices to sever and hold the welt at the completion of the sewing operation, and mechanism for disengaging and retracting the devices and returning them to initial position after the initial feed of the'shoe, substantially as described.

7. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a welt severing device, welt holding devices, mechanism for advancing and actuating the devices to sever and hold the welt, mechanism for moving the welt holding devices in the direction of the feed of the shoe, and mechanism for retracting the cutting and holding devices and returning them to initial position, substantially as described.

8. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, welt holding jaws, mechanism for advancing and retracting the jaws, a welt severing knife, and means operated by the advance of the knife to close the jaws on the welt, substantially as described.

9. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch. forming mechanism, a carrier mounted to move in the direction of the feed of the shoe, a reciprocating welt gripper mounted in the carrier, a reciprocating cutter also mounted in the carrier, mechanism for reciprocating the grippers and cutter, and mechanism for actuating the carrier, substantially as described.

10. A sewing machine, having, in combi nation, stitch forming mechanism, a reciprocating gripper bar carrying relatively movable welt gripping jaws, and a reciproeating cutter bar provided with means for closing and releasing the aws, substantially as described.

11. A'sewing machine, having, in combi nation, stitch forming mechanism, a gripper bar provided with relatively movable welt gripping jaws, a cutter bar provided with means to actuate the gripper jaws, and mechanism for advancing and retracting and relatively reciprocating the bars, substantially as described.

12. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a reciproeating gripper bar provided with relatively movable welt gripping jaws, a reciprocating cutter bar provided with a cam for closing the awe, and a fixed cam for opening the jaws, substantially as described.

13. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a reciprocating gripper bar provided with relatively movable welt gripping jaws, a rack and locking segment on the bar, a reciprocating cutter bar, a rack on the bar, and a rock shaft carrying a gear segment and locking segment engaging with the rack and segment on the gripper bar and also carrying a gear engaging rack on the cutter bar, substantially as described.

14. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a carrier mounted to swing in the direction of the feed of the shoe, a gripper bar mounted in the carrier, a cutter bar also mounted in the carrier, a rock shaft arranged concentric with the pivotal axis of the carrier, pinions car ried by the shaft engaging racks formed on the bars, and a locking segment on the shaft engaging a locking segment on the gripper bar, substantially as described.

15. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, and means for determining the amount of welt drawn forward in the removal of the shoe rendered active by the reversal of the machine, substantially as described.

16. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, means for limiting the withdrawal of the welt upon the removal of the work, and means operated by the reversal of the machine for rendering said limiting means active and operated by the forward movement of the machine for rendering said means inactive, substantially as described.

17. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a welt measuring device mounted for limited movement with the welt, means for connecting the device with the welt at the completion of the sewing and for disconnecting the device from the welt and returning it to initial position at the beginning of the sewing operation, substantially as described.

18. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a welt engaging device having a limited movement with the welt, means engaging the device with the welt at the completion of the sewing operation, and means for disengaging the device from the welt at the beginning of the sewing operation, substantially as described.

19. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a guide roll for the welt, a measuring sleeve having a limited forward movement, and means for connecting the welt, roll and sleeve at the completion of the sewing, substantially as described.

20. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a guide roll for the welt, a sleeve on which the roll is mounted, a welt clamp on the sleeve, a stop for limiting the forward rotation of the sleeve, and means for engaging the clamp with the welt at the completion of the sewing, substantially as described.

ANDREW EPPLER.

Witnesses:

Crrnsrnn E. Itoenns, MABEL ANNIE Swn'r'r.

Gopies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents,

Washington, D. 0.

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