US1068143A - Chart for cutting garments. - Google Patents

Description

T..'LA MAIDA.

CHART FOR CUTTING GARMENTS.

' 1 APPLICATION FILED-M1231, i912.

' K mm Patented m 22, 19 13.

2 SHEETS SHBET 1.

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THOMAS LA MAIDA, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

CHART FOB CUTTING GABMEN'IS.

Specification of Letters latent.

Patented July 22,1913.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, THoMAs LA MAIDA, a subject of the Province of Salerno, Italy, residing at- New York city, in the county of New York and State of New York, have invented new and useful Improvements in Charts for Cutting Garments, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to a chart designed to serve as a guide in cutting skirt patterns, and has for its object to render the art of cutting skirt patterns so plain and simple that any person unacquainted with pattern cutting may, by conforming to the directions, prepare patterns for skirts of any style and size.

With this object in view the device consists of a sheet of suitable material on which are outlined several separate diagrams for as many'diclferent kinds of skirts such as the narrow style, the wide or full style, the cir enlar style, etc. Onea'ch diagram are lines of perforations and scales of measurements following said lines, by means of which perforations and scales certain fundamental guide marks may be made on the material from which the pattern is to be cut, and by means of which guide marks the remaining outlines of the pattern may be laid out.

In the accompanying drawing, Figure 1 is a viewio f the chart complete; Fig. 2 is a diagrammatic View illustrating the use of the chart; Fig. 3 is a view of a sheet of paper or other material with a complete pat tern drawn thereon'jFig. l is a view of the pattern cut out.

In the drawings, A indicates a chart which may be of card board or other material, on one side of- Which are printed or otherwise applied the" diagrams which serve as guides for laying off the patterns, three of these diagrams being shown and are lettered B, C and l) for narrow, wide and circular skirts respectively. Each diagram comprises a straight line a marked Front as this line coincides with the front of the skirt, and from each end thereof extends indefinitely two. substantially parallel curved lines I) and 6 about six inches apart, the former being the waist line. antlthe latter the hip line. To prevent confusion bet-ween these lines, they are marked in an appropriate manner as by the letter lV for the waist line and the letter H for the hi 1 line. On the line b is a scaled reading rom the straight line a" and divided into inches and quarter inches.

A perforation e is made through the chart A on the line at each inch graduation, and continued to the line a for a purpose to be described hereinafter. A similar scale f divides the line a and perforations g similarly disposed as the perforations e are made throughthe chart. Perforations l1. spaced apart also follow the line a from endto end. To use the chart the following measure 'ments of the person to be fitted are first taken. From the waist line down as far as I desired in front, at the side and at the back.

to get the necessary length; then measure around the waist and hips as usual. The width around the bottom will depend on the particular style of skirt desired, whether narrow, full or medium, plain br plaited. With these measurements known, let it be assumed that a pattern for a narrow skirt is desired. The chart A is placed on a sulficiently large sheet of suitable material E which may be paper, with the line a of the diagram B or Form No. 1, near one long edge as shown in Fig. 2. Then with chalk, crayon, pencil or other material mark through perforations h, e, g on to the sheet E the full length of line a and from said line along waist and hip lines Z1, 0 for a distance measured by the scale equal to onehalf the waist and hip measurements in the manner indicated on Fig. 3. Foninstance, if the waist measures 26 and the hip measures 40 inches, stop at the perforations numbered 13 and 20 on the respective lines. Then remove the chart and with the chalk or other marking material draw lines 2', 7c and.Z.

through the three rows of dots made on the sheet I), as in said Fig. 3. \Vith a straightedge continue the line i indefinitely at z" and mark oll' thereon the length of the skirt in front as given by the measure previously taken, if the length be 38 inches make a mark or 38 inches from the waist line is. Next, draw from the point m a line a at a right angle to the line a" and extending backwardly indefinitely under the waist and hip lines, on which line 12, make a mark 0 distant from the line 2" equal to one-half the circumference of the skirt around the bottom. Ifthis measurement be inches the mark 0 will be 30 inches from the line 2". Now from the point 0 draw a straight'line 7) through the extreme end of the hip line 1 and continue it as far as the waist line is. The pattern being thus outlined, it only remains to be cut out and present the appearance shown in Fig. 4C. In this style of skirt the line pmay not touch the waist line it as in Fig. 3.

the waist line. A pattern cut by this particular diagram can be used only for .a narrow, plaited or plain skirt, the width of said pattern at the bottom being not less than three-fourths of the hip measure. For eX- ample, if the hip measure be 40 inches, the

I width of the pattern at thebottom should bottom should be about one-fourth greater than the hip measure, so that a pattern for a person measuring 40 inches around the hips would require a pattern about 40 or inches wide at the bottom. Diagram D of Form No. 3 is to be used if a wider skirt than that of diagram O is to be desired, such as a circular skirt Without darts at the waist line and having full width at the bottom.

To cut a pattern by this diagram proceed as heretofore described, the marking through the perforations of the front line and the waist and hip lines from a distance thereon equal to one-half the measurements of the waist and hip. Then remove the chart, mark waist, hip and front lines as before and draw the line 2". Then mark on the pattern sheet the front and side lengths and draw a line shaped to these measurements for the bottom of the pattern. If a plait be desirr l in the same allow for same. Before laying out the pattern observe closely the figure of the person for whom the pattern is designed, and hear in mind the fact that every person is built differently. For this reason additional lines 1-, s, and twith suitable perforations have been placed on the front of each diagram above the waist line to makc allowance for the difference in figures. These lines are spaced about a half inch apart at the front line a curving to the rear, and gradually merge into the waist line. For a person with a large or protruding abdomen, one of the lines 7', s, t, is to be This fullness, however, may be taken up by making darts in the goods at followed in marking out the pattern, lowering the same amount at the back but make no change at the side.

What I claim is,-

1. A pattern chaft for cutting skirt patterns comprising a sheet of suitable mate? rial having on one side a diagram formed of two curved substantially parallel lines spaced apart and connected each atone end by a straight line, each of said curved lines having thereon a single scale of like'measurements, beginning at said straight line and continuing throughout its length said sheet having spaced perforations following said curved lines and the straight line through which marks may be made for the foundation lines of a pat-tern, and a num-- ber of other curved lines and perforations on said sheet running from an extension of said straight line and equally spaced thereon to different points onthe waistline, whereby v on one of said first-named curved lines the waist measure and on the other the hip measure of the person for whom the pattern is being cut will be lald ofl".

2. A pattern chart comprising a sheet of suitable material having applied on one side a plurality of diagrammatic figures, each figure comprising a straight line and a curved line extending laterally from-each end of a straight line, the two curved lines of each diagrammatic figure differing in direction and curvature from corresponding lines of the other figures, said curved lines connected to each straight line being substautially parallel and each having a single scale of like measurements extending from the straight line, said sheet having spaced perforations following the straight lines and the curved lines whereby guide marks for laying ott' patterns can be made through said perforations, and a number of curved lines and perforations thereon running from an extension of each of said straight lines and equally spaced thereon to different points on each waist line.

THOMAS LA MAIDA. Signed in the presence of- GABRIEL ARAMANno, Tnvme LIGHT.

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