US1063253A - Sewing-machine. - Google Patents

Sewing-machine. Download PDF

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Publication number
US1063253A
US1063253A US64586211A US1911645862A US1063253A US 1063253 A US1063253 A US 1063253A US 64586211 A US64586211 A US 64586211A US 1911645862 A US1911645862 A US 1911645862A US 1063253 A US1063253 A US 1063253A
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Prior art keywords
awl
hat
leather
machine
rod
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Expired - Lifetime
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US64586211A
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Welcome P Gammons Jr
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B21/00Sewing machines with devices for automatically controlling movement of work-carrier relative to stitch-forming mechanism in order to obtain particular configuration of seam, e.g. programme-controlled for sewing collars, for attaching pockets

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a sewing machine which is designed to provide a ma chine which punctures the material which is to be sewed at a place where the needle will enter the material and from the opp0 site side to the side from which the needle enters, the puncturing being done by an awl which does not lnterfere in anyway wlth the sewing operation and is so adjusted that it punctures the material before the needle penetrates the material and directly after the material has been fed for the next stitch.
  • the sewing machine is further designed to be used on material of a soft nature, and material of a somewhat less pliable nature, for instance as in sewing hats where it is used through the felt and through the leather sweat band.
  • the awl is constructed to enter through the sweat band first whereby when the hat rests on the feeding means it provides aresilient backing, that is, a backing that yields slightly against the entrance of the awl, and any bur or ridge around the hole is caused to projecton the side toward the material of the hat so that it is not evident when the hat is finished.
  • the needle enters from the soft side, that is, through the hat-body or the material of'the hat, and having a hole punched for it in the lea her band of the hat, it does not push out the material of the leather, and the sewing has a good finished appearance on the inside and the sweat band is not marred by the row of minute raised particles around the holes of' the stitches.
  • the invention is designed to provide a machine to perform this which is provided with an awl that can be swung out of line with the needle or quickly placed in line with the needle, as it is desired to be used Specification of Letters Patent. Application filed August 24, 1911.
  • the machine further provides a ,presser-roller mounted on a swinging arm, said ,presser-roller being in turn provided with an improved guide for holding a cord when a cord is used in connection with the juncture of the leather band and the hatbody, andwhen such cord is not used, said guide acts to hold the material down on the feeding means to insure its being fed properly and steadily.
  • FIG. 1 is a side view of the machine ready to sew, but being illustrated without -material to be sewed therein.
  • FIG. 2 is a 1 Fig. 1.
  • Fig. 4 is a view taken from the front of the machine with the feeding-wheel removed and the front plate partly broken away to show the mechanism to better advantage.
  • Figs. 5, 6 and 7 are side views of the detail for holding the awl.
  • Fig. 8 is a view of the presser-roller with an improved form of cord guide secured thereto and also showing a portion of the feeding-wheel with the hat-body and the leather in place to be sewed.
  • Fig. 9 is a topview of Fig. 8.
  • I have illustrated a general type of machine, said machine being illustrated -as a hat sewing machine in which the hat leather is stitched to the hat-body on the inside of the bottom of the crown.
  • the machine casing 10 is provided with a driving pulley 11 which is adapted to receive a belt and is mounted on theshaft 12 which is bar 14, the needle-bar 14 carrying the nee-, I
  • the looper 17 acting to form the'loop for the stitches as is usually done in thistype .of machine.
  • the operating means for the looper 17 is not shown, since it is ndta part of this invention.
  • the main shaft is provided with a worm 18 which is shown more particularly in Fig. 3, the worm 18 being provided with spaced teeth which are without pitch for a part of their circumference, and provided with a pitch the remainder of the circumference so that the partial rotation of the shaft causes the worm 18 to feed the worm-gear 19.
  • a worm 18 which is shown more particularly in Fig. 3, the worm 18 being provided with spaced teeth which are without pitch for a part of their circumference, and provided with a pitch the remainder of the circumference so that the partial rotation of the shaft causes the worm 18 to feed the worm-gear 19.
  • This provides a step-by-step movement for the worm-gear 19 and the shaft 20 on which it is mounted (see Fig. 1), thus transmitting a step-by-step movement to the small gear ments surrounding it.
  • This presser-roller or wheel thereby insures the engagement of the edge of the feed-wheel 24 ,with the hat.
  • the hat is preferably supported by a shield 32 which is cut away as at- 33 (Fig. 3) to permit thepresser-wheel to press the hat close up against the feed -wheel.
  • the resser-arm and its wheel are normally forced against the hat by means of the bellcrank 34 and the s ring 35.
  • the feedwheel is provided with a back chamfered edge 36 which provides a pointed periphery over which the fold 37 of the hat is formed, and the sweat band or leather 38 of the hat is squeezed by the resser-roller 31 so that they are in position to have the needle pass through the fold 37 and through the leather near its top edge to sew the parts together. If the needle is'run throu h without any previous perforation, theeather,.'at the point where the needle comesthrough, is forced toward the inside of the hat, that is, the surface is pushed up and provides a small projection which, due 1 to the light color on the inside of the leather, is quickly noticeable, especially when there is a row of them, and they being close together, are well defined.
  • My invention provides. a means for perforating the leather of the hat first, the less pliable leather being forced by an awl against the softmateriallof the hat whereby a cushion is provided and the awl is forced through the leather into the fold of the hat if necessary, forcing the leather toward the hat where it can not be seen, and when the needle is forced through the perforation after the awl is withdrawn, the hole in the leather is clean and unmarred to the ob-
  • the awl 39 is mounted on a swinging lever 40, which lever swings on the pivot 41 on the rod 42, which rod is reciprocated by means of the yoke 43 and the eccentric 44 so that the awl-rod 42 is caused to reciprocate to force the awl into and out of the material between the pressenroller or wheel 31 and the feeding-wheel 24.
  • a sleeve 45 slides on'the rod 42 and also over the lever 40, and when slid forward to the position shown in Figs. 1 and 5, the lever 40 and the rod 42 are held in .alinementand the awl is in position for operation.
  • a pin 46 on the rod 42 and a slot- 47 in the sleeve 45 act to limit the movement of the sleeve.
  • the sleeve is preferably provided with knurled collars 48 to facilitate its movement.
  • the sleeve is slid back to the position shown in Fig. 6, the end 49 of the lever 40, which is within a slot in the end ofthe rod 42, is released and the lever 40 can be swung to the position shown in Figs. 2 and 7, that is, out of the way to facilitate the insertion and removal of material to be sewed.
  • the awl 39 is preferably made L- shaped or right-angled and is held by the screw,50 onto a plate 51 which is slotted as at 52, and working on the screw 53, provides an adjustment for the awl to regulate its penetration.
  • a sewing machine comprising a support for the material to be sewed, a reciprocating needle and its operating mechanism, an awl-rod, a lever swinging at the end of the awl-rod, a pin in the awl-rod; a sleeve sliding on the awl-I'od and having aslot to receive the pin, the sleeve being adapted to inclose both the rod and the lever to hold the 'lever'in its operative position, and an awl secured to the lever.
  • a sewing machine comprising a sup port for the material to be sewed, a reciproeating needle and its operating mechanism,

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Description

W. P. GAMMONS, JR. 7
SEWING MACHINE.
APPLICATION nun AUG. 24, 1911.
1,063,,2531 v Patented June 3, 1913.
' 2 annnrs-snnm 1.
W. P. GAMMONS, JR. SEWING MACHINE.
APPLICATION FILED AUG. 24, 1911.
1,063,253.. Patented June 3, 1913.
2 SHEE-TSSHEET 2. F l i E:
QT onto.
SEWING-MACHINE.
To all whom it may concern Be itknown that I, WVELooME I GAM- MONS, J r., a citizen of the United States, residing at New York, in the county of New York and .State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same, reference being had tov the accompanying drawlugs, and to figures of reference marked thereon, which form a part of this specification.
This invention relates to a sewing machine which is designed to provide a ma chine which punctures the material which is to be sewed at a place where the needle will enter the material and from the opp0 site side to the side from which the needle enters, the puncturing being done by an awl which does not lnterfere in anyway wlth the sewing operation and is so adjusted that it punctures the material before the needle penetrates the material and directly after the material has been fed for the next stitch. The sewing machine is further designed to be used on material of a soft nature, and material of a somewhat less pliable nature, for instance as in sewing hats where it is used through the felt and through the leather sweat band. The awl is constructed to enter through the sweat band first whereby when the hat rests on the feeding means it provides aresilient backing, that is, a backing that yields slightly against the entrance of the awl, and any bur or ridge around the hole is caused to projecton the side toward the material of the hat so that it is not evident when the hat is finished. The needle enters from the soft side, that is, through the hat-body or the material of'the hat, and having a hole punched for it in the lea her band of the hat, it does not push out the material of the leather, and the sewing has a good finished appearance on the inside and the sweat band is not marred by the row of minute raised particles around the holes of' the stitches.
The invention is designed to provide a machine to perform this which is provided with an awl that can be swung out of line with the needle or quickly placed in line with the needle, as it is desired to be used Specification of Letters Patent. Application filed August 24, 1911.
Patented June 3, 1%13. Serial No. 645,862.
or not. The machine further provides a ,presser-roller mounted on a swinging arm, said ,presser-roller being in turn provided with an improved guide for holding a cord when a cord is used in connection with the juncture of the leather band and the hatbody, andwhen such cord is not used, said guide acts to hold the material down on the feeding means to insure its being fed properly and steadily. I
The invention is illustrated in theaccompanying drawings, in which- Figure 1,is a side view of the machine ready to sew, but being illustrated without -material to be sewed therein. similar view showing the Presser-arm with its roller raised and material inserted in Fig. 2 is a 1 Fig. 1. Fig. 4 is a view taken from the front of the machine with the feeding-wheel removed and the front plate partly broken away to show the mechanism to better advantage. Figs. 5, 6 and 7 are side views of the detail for holding the awl. Fig. 8 is a view of the presser-roller with an improved form of cord guide secured thereto and also showing a portion of the feeding-wheel with the hat-body and the leather in place to be sewed. Fig. 9 is a topview of Fig. 8.
In the drawings I have illustrated a general type of machine, said machine being illustrated -as a hat sewing machine in which the hat leather is stitched to the hat-body on the inside of the bottom of the crown. The machine casing 10 is provided with a driving pulley 11 which is adapted to receive a belt and is mounted on theshaft 12 which is bar 14, the needle-bar 14 carrying the nee-, I
dle 15 which is ada ted to'receive thread from a spool mounte on the spindle 16 on the top of the casing 10, the looper 17 acting to form the'loop for the stitches as is usually done in thistype .of machine. The operating means for the looper 17 is not shown, since it is ndta part of this invention.
The main shaft is provided with a worm 18 which is shown more particularly in Fig. 3, the worm 18 being provided with spaced teeth which are without pitch for a part of their circumference, and provided with a pitch the remainder of the circumference so that the partial rotation of the shaft causes the worm 18 to feed the worm-gear 19. The
remainder of the rotation of the worm 18 looks the worm-gear 19 against rotation.
This provides a step-by-step movement for the worm-gear 19 and the shaft 20 on which it is mounted (see Fig. 1), thus transmitting a step-by-step movement to the small gear ments surrounding it.
server.
The presser-arm 29 1s pivoted at 30 and is provided with a presser-roller 31 rotatably arranged at its lower edge and adapted to be swung down in engagement with the inner side of the hat-bodyto force it against the feeding-wheel 24. This presser-roller or wheel thereby insures the engagement of the edge of the feed-wheel 24 ,with the hat. The hat is preferably supported by a shield 32 which is cut away as at- 33 (Fig. 3) to permit thepresser-wheel to press the hat close up against the feed -wheel. The resser-arm and its wheel are normally forced against the hat by means of the bellcrank 34 and the s ring 35. The feedwheel is provided with a back chamfered edge 36 which provides a pointed periphery over which the fold 37 of the hat is formed, and the sweat band or leather 38 of the hat is squeezed by the resser-roller 31 so that they are in position to have the needle pass through the fold 37 and through the leather near its top edge to sew the parts together. If the needle is'run throu h without any previous perforation, theeather,.'at the point where the needle comesthrough, is forced toward the inside of the hat, that is, the surface is pushed up and provides a small projection which, due 1 to the light color on the inside of the leather, is quickly noticeable, especially when there is a row of them, and they being close together, are well defined.
My invention provides. a means for perforating the leather of the hat first, the less pliable leather being forced by an awl against the softmateriallof the hat whereby a cushion is provided and the awl is forced through the leather into the fold of the hat if necessary, forcing the leather toward the hat where it can not be seen, and when the needle is forced through the perforation after the awl is withdrawn, the hole in the leather is clean and unmarred to the ob- The awl 39 is mounted on a swinging lever 40, which lever swings on the pivot 41 on the rod 42, which rod is reciprocated by means of the yoke 43 and the eccentric 44 so that the awl-rod 42 is caused to reciprocate to force the awl into and out of the material between the pressenroller or wheel 31 and the feeding-wheel 24. A sleeve 45 slides on'the rod 42 and also over the lever 40, and when slid forward to the position shown in Figs. 1 and 5, the lever 40 and the rod 42 are held in .alinementand the awl is in position for operation. A pin 46 on the rod 42 and a slot- 47 in the sleeve 45 act to limit the movement of the sleeve. The sleeve is preferably provided with knurled collars 48 to facilitate its movement.
\Vhen the sleeve is slid back to the position shown in Fig. 6, the end 49 of the lever 40, which is within a slot in the end ofthe rod 42, is released and the lever 40 can be swung to the position shown in Figs. 2 and 7, that is, out of the way to facilitate the insertion and removal of material to be sewed. The awl 39 is preferably made L- shaped or right-angled and is held by the screw,50 onto a plate 51 which is slotted as at 52, and working on the screw 53, provides an adjustment for the awl to regulate its penetration.
The mechanism is timed so that the feeding of the material takes place first, then It is sometimes desirable to feed a cord 54 and embrace it in the loop of the stitch, the cord being shown in Figs. 8 and 9 as resting in the juncture of the hat-brim and the sweat band or leather. To properly feed this cord, and also to act as a cord or pressing means for guiding the leather to insure the proper elevation of its" top edge, I provide the foot 55 which is provided on one side with a lip 56 which extends. over the leather and keeps it from riding up, and is provided on its other side with an eye 57 through which the cord 54 is fed, the eye 57 also having a provision on its under surface for preventing the riding up of the hatband or the cord. The foot is provided with a slot 58 which provides a passageway for the needle 15.
Having thus described my invention, what I claim is 1. A sewing machine comprising a support for the material to be sewed, a reciprocating needle and its operating mechanism, an awl-rod, a lever swinging at the end of the awl-rod, a pin in the awl-rod; a sleeve sliding on the awl-I'od and having aslot to receive the pin, the sleeve being adapted to inclose both the rod and the lever to hold the 'lever'in its operative position, and an awl secured to the lever.
2. A sewing machine comprising a sup port for the material to be sewed, a reciproeating needle and its operating mechanism,
an a l-rod, a lever swinging at the end of the awl-rod, a pin in the aWl-rod, a sleevesliding on the awl-rod and having a slot to receive the pin, the sleeve being adapted to inclose both the rod and the lever to hold I have hereunto, set my thevlever in its operative-position, a plate adjustably secured on the lever, and an L- shaped awl adjustably secured to the plate,
WELCOME P. GAMMON S, JR.
Witnesses:
WM. H. CAMPIELD, M. A. JOHNSON.
US64586211A 1911-08-24 1911-08-24 Sewing-machine. Expired - Lifetime US1063253A (en)

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3933107A (en) * 1973-04-19 1976-01-20 Allbook & Hashfield Holdings Limited Sewing machines

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3933107A (en) * 1973-04-19 1976-01-20 Allbook & Hashfield Holdings Limited Sewing machines

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