US1059698A - Process of forming welting. - Google Patents

Description

W. B. ARNOLD.

PROCESS OF FORMING WELTING. APPLICATION FILED NOV. 22, 1912.

1,059,698. Patented Apr. 22, 1913 messes: Imaveiwiio 7 To cilllfw hiom z't may concern WILLIAM B. ARNOLD, OF NORTH ABINGTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

p ;B'c it known that I, l l ILLILUE Bi ARNOLD,

afcitizen of the United States, and a resident orth Abington, iin, the. county of l lymouth' and, State of Massachusetts, have nvented an "Improvement in Processes t 'Forming elting,. o'f which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like characters on the drawings representing like p r s- Y This invention relates to the process of forming and applying welting to boots and shoes. i i

In order that the principle of the in vention may, be. readily understood, I shall set? forth the steps constituting the process and the best lnode known to me for carrying the processv into effect.

In thefaceompanying drawing, I have 'shown'the. welts produced by my process and have therein indicated the steps invOlved in applying the same to boots or shoes and infinishing the welt when so applied. I v Referring more particularly to the draw ing; Figure 1 isla plan view of a portion of a ,duplexwelting strip constructed in accordance \vithmy invention; Fig. 2 is a transverse section taken through said strip, the, 1ine of seve 'ancc being indicated; Fig.

3 is a view similar to. Fig. 2, but represent ing the" two iwelting strips segregated; and Figs. at, and 5 are partial transverse sections taken through a shoe and representing the manner of applying thereto the two welting strips produced in accordance with my inv ention. p

p 'The high cost of leather renders necessary the saving of all. possible material. It istliercfore extremely desirable that the \velts of boots and shoes be out with the least possible waste. \Velts are usually cut as strips of indeterminate length from a blank by cuts which are normal to the :laces of the blank, so tl at the welt is rectangular in cross section when cut from the blank.

In order that the welt may beproperly applied'to the boot or shoe, it is desirable that educed thickness or usually given to tapered. This ta per the welt, after the fivelting has been cut from the blank, though in some cases a strip wide-enough for two welts is cut from a blank, as shown, for examplqin Figs-3 and 6- of the patent to Hadaway, No..744,752,

rnoonss or FORMING WE-LTING.

Specificationof Letters Patent. a Ap plicat'ion filed November 22,1912. Serial No. 732,803.

Patented Apr. 22', 1913.

the said strip-being cut into two welts by a cut .ineli'nedto the faces of the strip, as there indicated. VVelts vary in width, but are custon'iarily from one-half to threequartcrs of an inch in Width. Assuining'the normalavelt to be about one-half inch in width, I am enabled inthe practice of my invention to save a portion of the leather depending upon and substantially equaling the inclination of the beveled inner edge of the Welt. Assuming that the extreme width of a welt is to be one-half inch, and assummg that each welt sho 'ild have a tapered lnner edge to permlt It to be secured in more effective manner to the shoe, instead of cutting the leather blank into strips each rectangular in cross SGCUOH and onehalf inch in width along .each face, I cut the blank,

in order to form a. duplex welt, into two strips by three continuous longitudinal cuts,

two of which are normal to the surface of I the blank and are spaced apart a distance equaling the width of two Welting strips,. that is, the width of the duplex strip,- thereby to form the outeredges of such duplex strips, and by an intermediate longitudinal cut extending entirely through the blank at an inclination to the surfaces thereof to form the inner edges of said strips. Either previous to, simultaneously wither subsequent to the cutting of the duplex Welting strips, I groove the flesh face of the material along lines adjacent to the inner edges of the said strips. These grooves are comparatively shallow, and therefore each groove is spaced from the extreme inner edge of each strip by .a continuous or unbroken ridge formed by the flesh surface of thewelt 111g strip, such ridge being of the full, unimpaired thickness or the \velting strip, and hence providing a most eliicient stitch anchoring shoulder. Moreover,.l save a step in' the manufacture of one of the welting strips, because heretofore it has been custernary to cut the welt-into a rectangular form in cross section and thereafter to bevel the inner edge. I am enabled to dispense with said beveling as aseparate operation, and after the welting strip has been applied to the boot orqshoe, I then remove from the inner edge of thevwelting strip by one operation all the material required to be severed at any time from the inner edge of such melting, strip subsequent to the separationof such welting strip from the stock.

Referring more particularly to the drawing, I have in 'Figspl, 2 and 3 represented at 1, 2 a du lex welt, the flesh face wheneof is indicate at 3, 3 and the rain face whereof is indicated at 4, 4'. T is duplex Welting strip has been severed from the stock by two continuous longitudinal cuts normal"i 'to;the surface of the blank and pagfil apart a distance equalin the width f ts 0.. two Welting strips, there y to form the outerpedges of said twowelting strips or duplex'welting strip, said two cuts being in- ,dicated at 5, 6. The duplex strip is severed into two welting strips by an intermedi- .ate longitudinal cut 7 extending entirely through the blank at an unvarying an le,- that is, by a single cutting operation e ected by a single severing blade inclined to the surface of. the strip. In this manner, the inner edge 8' 59 f each strip is inclined. It will be noted that in the case of the welting strip 1', the grain face extends inwardly beyond the flesh face, While the converse is true of the welting strip 2. Each of the welti-ng, strips possesses advantages flowing fronileach characteristic, as will be set forth 'morei-ij'ully with respect to Figs. 4 and 5.

Eachwelting strip is grooved as indicated I provide a stitch anchorin shoulder, and it will be observed that in each case" the groove is at the same distance from Y the extreme inner edge of the welt ng strip, 1 measuring along a surface of said st rlps.

,Moreover, it will be observedthat in each case the cured to; the shoe inne'rjed'ge 8, 9 is of the full thickness of the welt; or in other words that each groove is spaced from the inner edge of the Welt by an ;unbroken longitudinal ridge 12, 12 'formedby the very or actual flesh face of the i-welting strip. Thus, between the inclin'ed edge and the 'st itch anchoring sho'lilde'r' o f each welting' strip there is preserved aired thickness. of the welting is of. efxtr'eme-importance, inasmuch asi'the stitnhf by which the welt is sethrough the base of the grooves,'iand" re the ridge between such groove andjthe inner edge of the Welt of less than the- 'fi'ill thickness of the welt, then said stitchirfg is exceedingly apt to and will in practice tear through the inner edge of the Welt. If, for example, a duplex welting strip be severed intotw'o \velting strips, each of the desired Width for use, by an irregular groove orsimilar-"cut, thereby t'ofurnish an lnner inclined edge of each welt, and at the Same time to furnish a stitch receiving groove, into which the inclined edge merges or froni which it is not separated by a ridge 'of the. full, unimpaired thickness of the welting, then the stitch is apt to and will in practice tear through the inner edge'of the portion of the welting strip that is' between'lts groove or 1l and its inclined longitl'ldinal portion thereof of the upper 13 by a line of through and through stltchin 14 extendinginto the channel 15 base of the groove 10 of the welt. twill be pbserved that the grain face of the welt 1 extends to the extreme inner edge ofsaid welt, so that the grain faces of the npper and the welt-contact to the extreme inner edge offthe welt and co-act toexclude moisture. After the welt 1 has been secured as described, the inner ed e of the welt is severed along 'substantiad however, be observed that this. removal 0' superfluous materialstill leaves the ridge separating the groove l0ifrom' the ,inner edge .ofthe welt of the actual or full thickness of the welt, and thus prevents tearing out: of the through and through'stitching. I The welt strip 2 is also secured to the u per 13 by a line of through and through stitching 14 extending into the channel 15' of the insole-16 and piercing the groove 11 of inclined at its inner edge as shown-1n Fig. A, or Whether it be beveled-or inclined at its beveling or inclination facilitates t e'flexin or bending of the strip in its own plane an especially does it assist the flexing or bendplgne'. when it is bent about the toe-of the t or shoe. In other words, the inner edge, whichever be the direction ofbeveling,

strip in'its own lane than does a square inner edge, Furt ermore when the strip is beveled in the direction indicated in Fig. 4- that is, as indicated at the left hand port-ions of Figs. 2 and 3it will be observ d that the grain face'of the welt. projects yond-the flesh face thereof at the inclined or beveled edge. The grain face is of greater st-ren h than the flesh face, and therefore there is essthrough the shoulder or ridge in that form of strip shown in Fig. 4 than there is in that form shown in Fig. 5, wherein the direction of beveling or inclination is such that the grain surface of the ridge or shoulder is of less lateral extent than the opposite or flesh face thereof.

It will .be observed that in accordance with my process, none of the material has been removed from the inner edge of the welt 2 at any time prior to the securing of said welt to'the upper 13'. Heretofore it clined cut the upper inner edge or shoulder of the welt strip prior to the securing of the welt to the shoe, and this has necessitated a distinct separate operation. I avoid the necessity of such operation because of the fact that theduplex welting strip is severed welt. The welting strip is secured to the of the insole 16 and passing throu h the ly .the line. m-w, thus removing superfluous material. It will% the welt.- VVhether'the strip be beveled-orv lends itself more readily to flexure of; the

tendency or danger of the stitches tearing inner edge as represented in Fi 5,' such .ing of the strip in or substantially in its own has been customary to remove by an ini more all superfluous material from the inner edge'ot' the welt and insole. Even after the removal of the superfluous inner edge of the welt 2, it will be observed that the groove 11 is separated from the extreme in- I ner edge of the welt by a ridge of the full such inner edge.

thickness of the welt strip, thus overcoming all. liability of the. through and through stitching to tear through the inner edge of the welt. The beveling of the inner edge of the welt so prepares the welt that when applied to the shoe, it is not only more elastic, but it is necessary to cut oil far less material beyond thellines of stitching wa: and y--y than in those welts which are rectangular in cross section In "fact, it is unnecessaryto remove a substantial amount of After the welts have been secured as described, and the extreme inner edges thereof have been removed as stated, all outer edges of the welt may be treated in any suitable manner.

Having thus described one illustrative. embodiment of my invention, I desire it to be understoodthat although specific terms are employed, they are used in a generic and descriptive senseand not forpurposes' of limitation, the scope of the invention being set forth in the following claims. Claims:

i v 1. That process of forming welting in intermediate lengths which consists in cutting aleather blank into two welting strips by two continuous longitudinal cuts normal to the surface of the blank and spaced apart a distance equaling the width of two welt- -ing strips, thereby to form the outer edges the Patent. Ollice.

[sun] of two welting strips, eaeh'of the desired width, and by an intermediate longitudinal cut extending entirely through the blank at an inclination to the surface thereof, thereby to form the inner edges of said strips,

and in grooving the flesh faceof each strip near the inclined edge, but spaced therefrom by an unbroken ridge formed by a flesh surface 'of the welting strip, thereby to provide a stitch anchoring shoulder.

2. That process of forming welting in indeterminate lengths which consists of. cutting a leather blank into two welting strips by two continuous longitudinal eutsjiormal to the surface of the blank and spaced apart a'distanee equaling the width of two welting strips,'thereby to form the outer edges of two welting strips each of the desired widthand by an intermediate longitudinal cut extending entirely through the blank at an unvarying angle, and which is inclined to the faces of said blank, thereby to form the inner edges of said strips and in grooving the flesh face of each strip near the inclinededge. but wholly spaced therefrom by an unbrokenlongitudinal ridge formed by a flesh face of the welt ing strip, of such width that between the inclined edge and the stitch anchoring shoulder of each Welting It is hereby certified that Letters Patent No.1,059,698, granted April 22, 1913, uponthe application of William B. Arnold, of North Abington, Massachusetts,-foi' an improvement in E -recesses of Forming Welt'ing, an error appears in the printed specification reduirjng correction as follows: Page 3, line 35, for the word intermediate read indeterminate, and that the said Letters Patent should be read with this correction therein that the same may conform to the record of the case in Sigued and sealed this 2nd day of September, A. l')., 1913.

THOMAS EWING,

Commissioner of Patents.

by an inclined out. After the welt 2 has been secured to the shoe, then by a single out along substantially the line YY, I re more all superfluous material from the inner edge'ot' the welt andinsole. Even after the removal of the superfluous inner edge of the welt 2, it will be observed that the groove 11 is separated from the extreme in- I ner edge of the welt by a ridge of the full such inner edge.

thickness of the welt strip, thus overcoming all. liability of the. through and through stitching to tear through the inner edge of the welt. The beveling of the inner edge of the welt so prepares the welt that when applied to the shoe, it is not only more elastic, but it is necessary to cut oil far less material beyond thellines of stitching wa: and y--y than in those welts which are rectangular in cross section In "fact, it is unnecessaryto remove a substantial amount of After the welts have been secured as described, and the extreme inner edges thereof have been removed as stated, all outer edges of the welt may be treated in any suitable manner.

Having thus described one illustrative.

embodiment of my invention, I desire it to be understoodthat although specific terms are employed, they are used in a generic and descriptive senseand not forpurposes' of limitation, the scope of the invention being set forth in the following claims. Claims:

i v 1. That process of forming welting in intermediate lengths which consists in cutting aleather blank into two welting strips by two continuous longitudinal cuts normal to the surface of the blank and spaced apart a distance equaling the width of two welt- -ing strips, thereby to form the outer edges the Patent. Ollice.

[sun] of two welting strips, eaeh'of the desired width, and by an intermediate longitudinal cut extending entirely through the blank at an inclination to the surface thereof, thereby to form the inner edges of said strips,

and in grooving the flesh faceof each strip near the inclined edge, but spaced therefrom by an unbroken ridge formed by a flesh surface 'of the welting strip, thereby to provide a stitch anchoring shoulder.

2. That process of forming welting in indeterminate lengths which consists of. cutting a leather blank into two welting strips by two continuous longitudinal eutsjiormal to the surface of the blank and spaced apart a'distanee equaling the width of two welting strips,'thereby to form the outer edges of two welting strips each of the desired widthand by an intermediate longitudinal cut extending entirely through the blank at an unvarying angle, and which is inclined to the faces of said blank, thereby to form the inner edges of said strips and in grooving the flesh face of each strip near the inclinededge. but wholly spaced therefrom by an unbrokenlongitudinal ridge formed by a flesh face of the welt ing strip, of such width that between the inclined edge and the stitch anchoring shoulder of each Welting It is hereby certified that Letters Patent No.1,059,698, granted April 22, 1913, uponthe application of William B. Arnold, of North Abington, Massachusetts,-foi' an improvement in E -recesses of Forming Welt'ing, an error appears in the printed specification reduirjng correction as follows: Page 3, line 35, for the word intermediate read indeterminate, and that the said Letters Patent should be read with this correction therein that the same may conform to the record of the case in Sigued and sealed this 2nd day of September, A. l')., 1913.

THOMAS EWING,

Commissioner of Patents.

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