US1039233A - Pattern for coat-collars. - Google Patents

Description

H. R. WESTERN.

PATTERN FOR GOAT COLLARS.

APPLICATION FILED 133.17, 1911.

1,039,233. Patented 15611124.1912.

#www l @SSW Bf @www UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

PATTERN FOR COAT-COLLARS.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Sept. 24,1912.

Application led February 17, 1911. Serial No. 609,142.

To all whom t may concern:

i Be it known that I, HARRY Rouu'r VVns'r- ERN, tailor, of 71 Clive road, Fratton, Portsy mouth, England, have invented new and useful Improvements in Patterns for Coat- Collars; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description of the same, reference being had to the. accompanying drawings, forming a part hereof.

This.v invention has reference to patterns for cutting the collars of coats and similar garments,and in order that my invention may be readily understood and carried into effect I will now proceed to describe the same fully with reference to the accompanying drawings in which Figure l is a front plan view of my improved pattern. Fig... 2 is a rear plan view of the same.` Fig. 3 illustrates a fiat collar pattern for cutting the cloth as hereinafter described.

My improved pat-tern comprises a body portion a of linen, canvas or other appropriate material cut to the shape of that part of a coat or jacket collary known as the fall, that is, the original shape of the collar before it is shrunk or shaped to the requirements ofv the ligure. Extending from the bottom edge b ofthe body portion to within a short distance of' the top edge c I form a number of slits or cuts d. The back of the body portion a is provided with a number of loops e through which a tape, Wire or the like f is threaded and fastened centrally to the portion a as at t. The body portion a is provided with slots g behind which the tape or wire f passes and secured to said tape are indicators L passing through said slots g over a guide strip s, rigid with the portion a. At the back of the body portion a is secured, at or near its top edge, a piece z' of canvas or other appropriate material having slits or cuts y' therein similar to those in the body portion a but so arranged as to come between the slits or cuts d formed therein so that when the pattern is opened out in fitting, as hereinafter described, the bottom edge will form a continuous line; or I may dispense with the piece z' if de- Sired and form the pattern of a single body portion a of suitable material. The top edge o the slots g and the center are graduated with inches and parts of an inch or other appropriate standard of measurement, and a few inches along the base may if required, y be graduated.

It will be noted from the drawing that because of the securing means of the tape f to the body portion a, as at t, the portions `of thebody portion at both sides of the point of securing are movable with respect yto the tape, and because of this movement the pat-tern may be shaped about the neck `1 of the person to be fitted.

y In using my improved device the coator l'other garment is fitted in the usual way but k'without a collar. The pattern is then placed `in position on the figure and the ends of the pattern passed under or over the lapel of the coat thus registering the correct length from `the center of the back to where the lapel passes over the pattern at the top edge. At the same time the aforesaid slits (l and j 1l will permit the pattern to ybe curved and the l tape j will position the indicators h to reguilate the amount of shape required for the 'collar for any particular type of figure.

Fig. 3 illustrates a collar pattern` for marking the cloth and for use in conjunction with the above. It comprises a body -portion a with graduations c and g, and, as will subsequently appear, it is essential that thev graduations and their distances from the center of the pattern should be eX- actly the same both in regard to the distance down from the top edge c and the distance at which they start from the center, and in this pattern apertures are formed with the graduation c and g at the margins thereof for convenience in marking.

Now assuming that the lapel of the garment passed over the pattern Fig. l at 5 at the top edge and 6 at the upper graduated margin of slot g, the procedure would be to place the pattern shown in Fig. 3 on the cloth with the line 'le registering with what is to be the center of the collar, and then to mark the points aforesaid upon the cloth and these will indicate the dimensions of the collar as shown by broken lines Fig. 3. The cloth having been marked and cut, is Worked up with the iron in the usual manner to the shape as registered by the indicator at lower graduated margin of slot g of the pattern.

What I do claim as my invention and desire to secure by Letters Patent is l. An adjustable pattern for the collars of coats and similar garments, comprising in gig:

combination, a body portion cut to the shape of the fall of the coat collar and provided with transverse slits open to the bottom margin thereof, and longitudinally extending apertures adjacent to the ends of the body portion with graduated margins, a tape secured to said body portion centrally thereof and adjacent the open ends of the said slits therein, with relative movement between the said tape and body portion at both sides yof the point of connection therebetween for fitting th'e pattern in place, and indicators carried by said tape for coperation with the graduations at the margins of said apertures in said body portion for determining the dimensions of the collar to be formed according thereto.

' 2. An adjustable pattern for the collars of coats and similar garments, comprising in combination, a body portion cutto the shape of the fall ofthe coat collar and provided with transverse slits open to the bottom margin thereof, and longitudinally extending apertures adjacent to the ends of the body portion with graduated margins, a tape secured to said body portion centrally thereof and adjacent the open ends of the said slits therein, with relative movement between the said tape and body portion `at both sides of the point of connection therebetween for fitting the pattern in place, indicators carried by said tape for coperat-ion with the graduations at the margins of said apertures 1n said body portion for determining the dimensions of the collar to be formed according thereto, and a supplementary portion for said body portion, provided with slits open to the bottom margin thereofand disposed in staggered relation to the said slots in said body portion, whereby a uniform or uninterrupted bottom margin is provided for when the pattern is in place.

3. In patterns for the collars of coats and similar garments, the combination, an adjustable pattern including a body portion cut to the shape of the fall of the coat collar and provided with transverse slits open to the bottom margin thereof, and lonthe ends of the body portion with graduated margins, a scale carried by said body portion and extending longitudinally along the top margin thereof, a tape secured to said body portion centrally thereof and adjacent to the open ends of said slits therein with relative movement between said tape and said body portion at both sides of the point of connection therebetween for fitting the pattern in place, indicators carried by said tape for cooperation with the graduations at the margins of said apertures in said body portion for determining the dimensions o-f a collar to be formed according thereto, and a rigid pattern for supplementing said adjustable pattern and provided with a scale identical to the said scale of said adjustable pattern, an aperture, provided with graduated margins, homologous to one of the said apertures in said body lportion with respect to said scale, and an index for positioning the rigid pattern to the material from which the collar is to be formed and relative to the transverse center f thereof.

at. In patterns for the collars of coats, and similar garments, the combination, an adconnection therebetween for yiitting the patftern in place, indicators carried by said tape for coperation withA the graduations at the y.margins of said apertures in said body por- "tion for determining the dimensions of the collar to be formed according thereto, a supllplementary portion kfor said body portion provided with slits open to the bottom mar#` l gin thereof and disposed in staggered rela- Ition to the said slots in said body portion,

`whereby a uniform or uninterrupted bottom margin is provided for when the pattern is Sin place, and a rigid pattern'for supplementling said adjustable pattern and provided with a scale ident-ical to the said scale of fsaid adjustable pattern, an aperture, with graduated margins, homologous to 'one of the said apertures in said body portion with gitudinally extending apertures adjacent to TGSpCt t0 the Sad S0310, and an ndeX fOI' positioning the rigid pattern to the material from which the collar is to be formed and relative to the transverse center thereof.

In testimony whereof I afhx my signature `in presence of two witnesses.

HARRY ROBERT WE STERN.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents,

' Washington, D. G.

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