US1023313A - Art of knitting seamless plated hosiery. - Google Patents

Description

E. A. HIRNER. ART 0F KNITTING SEAMLES8 PLATED HOSIERY.

APPLIUATKON FILED DEG 1, 1910 1,023,31 3. Patented Apr.16,1912

2 SHEETQP'SHEET l,

EL A. BLHN Am n KNITTING Em. PLMW manna.

"FPLZGATL'UR FRED M115 1, WW

1,0233% 1 3. Eatented Apr. 1. 6, 1912.

[5,1 lwwv' U cause them to be knit together but in such tempt has usually been ating perati n in 1h heel and r porrshirt :5. Examine, or mnurown, rmmsrnvsma ART or xun rms snnmnnss PLATED 308mm.

Specification of Letters Patent i Patented Apr. 16,

Application filed December 1, 1910. Serial No. 595,9"

To all whom'tt,myfconurn; I i p y Be it known t'lnit I, EMIL A HInNEn, oil Allentown, inrthe county of""'Leh1gh and State of Pennsylvania, have invented certainnew and useful Improvements in the Art of Knitting Seamless Plated Hosiery, whereof thefollowing is a specification, reference being had to the accompanying drawin s.

The operation of plating is well known in knitting and consists in so feeding two threads simultaneously to the needles as to a Way that one thread, called the plating yarn, always appears upon the face of the fabric, while the other, called the body yarn, always appears upon the back of thefabric.

In the knitting of seamless hosiery, no atmade to plate the heel and toe'pockets. The reason for this, is I that these pockets are the result of a fashioning operation, in which the knitting is performed by a reciprocatory motion of the machine accompanied. with narrowing andv widening" of a flat Web with interlooped selvages. Tho plating operation is a delicate one. its proper performance being dependent upon the relative positions and tensions of the threads as they enter the knitting oporation. In the fashioningof a heel or too pocket. the discovery ofthe proper position for the threads at the point where the sutures occur, 5. 0., the union or interloopmom of the selvages of the narrowed and widened fabrics, has been a difficult prob lent and has not heretofore been solved. This has prevented the general adoption of plated stockings, for although the plating opt-ration may be availed of in order to pr (lllll i-olor effects in hosiery. yet one of its important uses is to permit the lining of a llulilug with an undycd or unrolored yarn. llany persons for sanitary reasons prefer to hurtthe foot of a stocking made of such undyod yarn. and. for this reason parti-colorml stockings, sometimes called split-fhot slot-kings, are made with the leg! and in- Hr]; oi rolol'ctl yarn. andthe sole and heel and loo pot-hots ot' unrlyrd yarn. A much uoalor and more serviceable stocking is one made throughout of colored yarn or silk linwl upon the inside with plain or undyod cotton yarn by a plating operation. and yet 1 lhe iuilur lo scr-or-ssiullv a complish the ets, where its presence is most desired, has I limited the field of the plated st-ockin According to my invention I am a le to plate the entire seamless stocking so that, for instance, a colored yarn and an undyed yarn may be used throd bout, and throughout the stocking the colored yarn will appear on the outside and the undyecl yarn on the inside. In speakingl of a plated stocklog, I do not necessari y includes ribbed 5 top, although, of course, this maybe added and may also be plated if desired.

So far as concerns the parts of a seamless stocking which are knit in rotary fashion (that is to say, the entire leg and Toot), no description is here necessary, as they are composed of plain tubular rotary knitting, and are plated in the way which is known in the art. I will therefore confine my -de scription to the special robleni which I have sol'ved, to wit, the p sting of the heel and toe pockets, and, as they are reeilsely alike, a description of one is a description of the other. i

In the accompanying drawings, Figure I, is a diagrammatic View of a stocking with a small square indicated therein in dottedlinesto showthe precise position of the portion of knitting illustrated in Fig. IV.- Figs II,

and III, are enlarged views showing t e position of the threads upon, the needlesrespectively, immediately before and im'me (liately after the reversal of'the thread, in the formation of the suture loops. Fig. IV, shows upon an enlarged scale the structure of a plated fabric when made in accordance with my invention, taken from the'side of the heel pocket of the stocking illustrated in Fig. I, with the suture passing diagonally acrt'iss it. Referring now to Fig. IV :It wi l be observed that it consists of two knit salvaged fnbl'its with their courses at. right angles and their selvagos interlooped, and composed throughout of two yarns namely, a plating yarn 1, indicated throughout by striated shading, and a body yarn 2, indiratrd throughout by absence of shading. The two yarns are knit together simultaneously throughout, but in suoh fashion as to cause the plated yarn to always appear on the fare of the fabric, and the body yarn upon the hack. My invention relates to the method or process of knitting by which a 1 srhngml fabric of this character is to be diagonally arraii ed sides of the knitting p v knitting (not visible) lacks this ridged ap- On' the ot er hand, the back of the pearance and consists entirel of the tops bottoms oftheloopa; or, if we think of thefsucces's'ion of'loops in a course of knitting, as corresponding to waves, the back of the fabric consists, of the successive crests and furrowsj, It will be seenthat the loops damn lie lengthwise the fabric, but are almostliorizontal, that the ordinary knitting loop passes] twice through the fabric its head and foot occupying the back and its" sides dictate The'plating'yarn at the back of the fabric lies within the circles constituting the tops and bottoms of the loops rim-dc by the body yarn, consequently, the body yarn alone appears on the back and the platin yarn is here hidden, as for example, at 3, in Fig. IV. It must be borne in mind that the fabric is shown in a stretched condition so as to show as much, as possible of the loops. When relaxed the walls formed by theysidcsrof the loops are almost or quite in contact so that the tops andbottoms of the loops are not visibleon the face of the fabric. At the sides of the loops the yarns come to the face after being interlooped with the preceding course, and

here the body yarn is buried in the fabric,

while the plating yarn appears upon. the

face, as shown at 4. The description thus given applies to the entire two fabrics shown, so far as they are composed of plain knitting. But these two fabrics have their courses at right angles to each other, and are finishedrby diagonal selvages each interlmit with the other. This is the structure which results from the fashioning operation as commonl practiced in the makingmf seamless hosiery, but it results in an irregularity in the knitting, and the roblem which I have solved has been the discovery of the method of laying the two threads during the interknitting of these selvages for the production of a suture, by which the same efl'ect is produced throughout, to wit, the plating yarn maintained constantly on the face of the fabric and the body yarn on the back, so that the suture is plated as welt as the ordinary straight courses of the narrowed and widened fabric. This plating of the suture is most important not only because of the improved appearance of 'the' iproducfl wliere the suture portions are plated, but because if there is here airsversal of the yarns, it perpetuates itsel'i in the straight courses of the heel or toe producing a mottled result.

The selvage formation wich is illus-j tra'ted, is that most commobf'l used in American seamless hosiery, imi-which'thd narrowing and widening process is performed upon what is known as the two and one method, a method wellilmo'wii to those skilled in the art and which need not be lierevdescribed,'but itis obvi'ousthat my in:

vention is equally :applicable to a selvag'e '80 Referring to' the selvage of that fabric" formed upon the one and'tone niethod.

must b'e-considered as runningone wayand the odd numbers running the other, It

be sufiicient to describe the selvage of two courses, asalltheothers are'identical. Taki ing for example, the course numberedIS, it is cut oil at the top'of B loop; -Aftebmbk1ng the complete loop the top ofi which is humbered 21, it (passes down a-t 224; 23; and

then instea of forming an or nary loop,

forms the selvage loop 24, in which as be fore the plating yarn is. mai:ntainedupon the inside of the loop, so that the body yarn is thrown to the back. With the yarns in this position the side of the selvage loop is retracted behind the" bottom "of the loop which immediately preceded the selvage loop re-a peering at 25. Durin this.d1stance the ody yarn has been maintained at the back, so that it maintains its position where the thread again interloops with the ri lit hand side of the loop whose top ismar ed- I 21, after which it re-appearsu on the .face of the fabric at 26, andy27, w ich are the sides of the loops of a new course '19. It will be observed that the plating yarn which has been burie'cl in the fabric since the formation of the selva loop 24, here pr0perl reappears upon ,t e face at the sides 0 the loops and continues i this the entire courseclil. Commgnow .to the other fabric formed of vertical courses", which anehmnbered from 30 to42, it will be convenient to {take the thread which is numbered 38,- and follow its course as indicating the course of all the other evenly numbered threads. It forms a loop the top of which is marked 44, with the plating .yarn held to the inside of the half circle formed by the body yarn which is there thrown to the back of the fabric. Wherethe head of the next loop should be formed, the yarns at 45, are both temporarily buried in the fabric, and then back. The yarns continue and completelyosition during encircle the sides of the selvage loop of the other fabric, which is formed by the yarn. l6, and come to the face of the fabric at 47, with the plating yarn forming the sides of a loop lying to the face. This loop just described constitutes the selva-ge loop of this course, that is to say, it is the point where the yarns after passing in one direction retrace their steps and are laid in the other direct -ion. This loop is completed at 49, after which the threads pass to the back after having interlooped with the bottom of the loops formed by the yarn 16, and pass diagonally at 50, Where the body yarn is visible upon the back and are retracted to form the loops, of which the sides are marked at 51. and At 53. these yarns are again at the hack of the fabric with the body yarn there showing, from whence their course to 39, is readily traced.

The fabric which I have thus described, in I believe new, considered as a structure. Its characteristic is that in the formation of the selvage loop; and during tho-entire irregular course which the are required to follow in order that they may take their place in the formation of the next course, (that is throughout the entire suture p0rtion), the special positions of the two yarns are maintained, that is to say, the plating yarn invariably takes theshort course in the rounding of the head or foot of the loop, so that the body yarn there appears upon the bark of the fabric, while on the other hand, at the sides of the loops the plating yarn overlies the body yarn on the face of the fabric. I have discovered that in order to pro duce a fabric of this character, in which a, fashioning suture is incorporated in the knitting and plated, it is essential that the two yarns shall be fed to the needles in a definite and predetermined way, and especially that this position of the yarns be maintained with great accuracy at a certain critical point of the operation, to wit:-tl1e point Where the return of the threads occurs in the. formation of the suture. The impor tance of properl) feeding the two threads to the needles at this point of the operation resides in the fact that if inversion of the threads occurs at this point, it perpetuates itself during the entire course of knitting which succeeds. thereby ruining the plated client. The method of knitting which I employ, and which results in the fabric which I have. described, will be understood by reference to l igs. H, and III, of the drawings.

rig. ll, represents three successive needles l. and 52. l llt" plating thread and the body thread are indicated at l, and 2, respco lively. As shown in Fig. ll, 61, is the last. needle of the fashioning set for the course which is being: unit. while 30, is the end needle of the idle holding a loop of the w ceding course.

The two threads 1, and 1.,

threads.

have been fedwithin the hooks of needles 62, and 61, so that the body yarn 2, lies uppcrmost upon the shank of the needle. While the plating yarn being fed at a more obtuse or flat angle lies below, the result being the for mation of a knit fabric in which the body yarn shows upon the hack and the plating yarn upon the face of the fabric. At the point in the knitting operation illustrated in Fig. I], the yarn rarrier is carrying the two yarns beyond the end of the fashioning set without rontinuatii'in of the knitting operation. because of the [art that the needles from 50. on. are raised. to the idle lore! and cannot knit. Soon the Yfiltl carriers return upon tl'ien'iselves occasimiingr. as this operaticis usually performed, a slackening of the tension. It is here that. the natural twist of the yarns enta-ngling the fuzz which ordinarily projects from knitting yarns, tends to occasion a reversal of the position of the This I avoid hyproperly controlling the position of the threads as the yarn carrier passes to the other side of the first needle of the fashioning set, as shown in Fig. I II, so that the threads are in their proper relative positions prior to the feeding of the. thread to the first and succeeding needles of this active series. served in the figure, that this needle has advanced snlliciently to take the. threads under its hoolr, and it must be especially observed that in this reversed position. the body thread is again led across the shank of the needle over the plating thread. This is accomplished by reversing the plating; yarn under tension, to a. symn'iet rival posit ion si llll lar to that which it occupicd when nioviin, in its first direction, and at. a similar obtuse angle. The body yarn is likewise reversed at its prior angle, both threads being: thus correctly positioned on the first and succeeding needles of the active series. By laying the threads in this fashion. at l": J 'LTlllGZil point, inversion of the threads is iirevcnted, and a continuation of the plating process course by course, is insured.

The i'nacliine which i have devi ed to en able me to most con eniently &'l (ml the process herein claimed. is i'l sryril-eil in an. application tiled o me under date it l chruary 15th. 1901', Serial Plumber 3514 I am awar of etlorts which ha e previously been made, although as for I can discover. always unsuited ful, to plate the straight courses of narrowed and widened fabric. which inulie up heel or t pockets.

The larlr of success of such ello has heen lue. as l iielie c. [re the to oi tin ltnib tor t realize how to plate the suture W t h to eluding all the selva tnre, and I find that culties which have h lating of the heel a ing, are done awa the suture loo scheme, the

ge loops of the strucby doing this, the difliofore been found in mi toe members of a with; since it once ps are plated accordi maintenance of the angular relation, with. the body thread uppermost on the shankof the needle, and the plating thread occupying the flatter angle; continuin this operationto the point Where the three. s turnupon themselves to form the sutureloops'of the fashioned portion; and

Y thereupon as the jdirection of the travel 015 sition of the thr presents no pal ghout the straight 'tieula r diflicult-y,

the threads is reversed, throwing the plating threadfto ,a' reversed position at a similar fiat ang1e,,a1'1'd throwingthe body thread over"the plating thread at'a higher angle if, as has heretofore ad to specially, me are allowed tiring this partally impossible position of the yarns rses of the narrowed since if the yarns start reversed position the reetuate itself.

g thus described my invention, I:

while on the otl been the case, plating the sut to lie in hapha of the lmittin to maintain th during the str and widened fabric, from the suture in a versal tends to perp no regard is h ure, and the ya zard relation d g, 1t 15 practie prior to'thea'f eeding ofthe thread to' the first and succeeding needles of the active series, \v'he fehy'the roper relation of the threads is Ina ntaineiil mediatelysuoceeding reversal, and through out the'lmitting operation. 5.

In testimony whereofirI have hereunto S1'gned, my, name at Allentown, Pa., this twenty-fifth 'da y'of November, 1910.

The improvement in seamless plated hosiery, feeding simultaneously to body thread and plating t the art of knit-ting.

which consists in the active'nee hread in dill EMIL A. HIRNER.

nesse muss. Ho'rrnnsrnm, R. R. ABBOTT.

during the loops im-

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