US1491759A - Seamless stocking and method of making same - Google Patents

Description

Apfiil 22 3%24. 1,491,759

w. SCZOTT SEAMLESS STOCKING AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Dec. (30, 1922 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 Ami 22, 29:2 3,492,759

R. W. SCOTT SEAMLBSS STOCKING AND METHOD OF MAKING f-Aw Filed Dec. 50, 192;:- v 3 Sheets-Sheet3 igi I 1 imwemv GM/OW Patented Apr. 22, 1924,

UNITED STATES innate PATENT oFFicE.

RUFUS W. SCOTT, OF NEW YORK, N. Y., ASSIGNOR 'IO HEMPI-IILL COMPANY, OF CEN- TRAL FALLS, R-HODE ISLAND, A CORPORATION OF MASSACHUSETTS.

Application filed December 30, 1922.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that 1, Burns W. Soorr, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of New York, in the county and State of New York, have invented an Improvement in Seamless Stockings and Methods of Making Same, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like characters on the drawings representing like parts.

This invention relates to seamless stock ings and to the method of making the same. In order that the principle of the invention may be readily understood, I have disclosed certain embodiments of the stocking of my invention in the accompanying drawings, wherein- Fig. 1 is a side elevation of a seamless stocking embodying my invention;

Fig. 2 is an enlarged and somewhat diagrammatic detail showing one manner of forming the back part of the stocking;

Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 2, but of a somewhat modified form of my invention, and

Figs. 4 to 7 are enlarged and somewhat diagrammatic views of further modifications of my invention.

The stocking of my invention is a socalled circular or seamless knit stocking knitted upon a circular machine having means for forming the heel and toe pockets, such as narrowing and widening pickers. While any suitable mechanism may be employed in the production of the stocking, the machine should be equipped with means for introducing the main knitting yarn or thread and for introducing a reinforcing yarn or thread at the desired point or points and desirably with means for changing the stitch length as the knitting progresses.

My invention pertains more particularly to a structural variation in the knitting of the stocking, in combination with a reinforcing stripe, which features are so coordinated as to simulate certain full fashioned stockings, notably those wherein the selvaged edges of the leg portion thereof are reinforced, certain advantages hereinafter pointed out being obtained by the employment of a structural variation in the character of the knitting as a mock seam.

While the principle of my invention in- SEAMLESS STOCKING AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME.

Serial No. 609,832.

volving the coordination of a structural variation in the character of the knitting so as to form a mock seam during the knitting operation, and the stripe produced by an auxiliary or reinforcing yarn or thread, may be applied at any desired part of the stocking or other fabric, it is obvious that the simulation referred to can be best achieved by forming the same at the back of the leg of the stocking and accordingly such embodiment of the invention is herein disclosed and will be sufficiently described without limiting the invention strictly thereto. The structural variation to produce a mock seam during the formation of the stocking is desirably a tuck stitch formation, although other structural stitch changes may be employed, such, for example, as draw stitches. I preferably employ tuck stitches and, in order to emphasize the effect thereof, I may form two or other pluralities of vertical rows of vertically spaced tuck stitches, which rows may adjoin or which may be separated by one or more lines of regular stitches in the event that I employ two vertical rows of vertically spaced tuck stitches or which may be separated from each other by a single or other line of regular stitches at each side of the intermediate line of tuck stitches if three lines or wales of vertically spaced tuck stitches be employed. ,Other forms of my invention are clearly comprehended within the scope thereof as, for example, a single line or wale of vertically spaced tuck stitches.

In all cases based upon the embodiment of the invention shown in Fig. 2, the reinforcing yarn or thread is inter-knitted into and forms a structural part of the tuck stitches and also of the line or lines of regular stitches between the lines of spaced tuck stitches, if such line or lines of regular stitches be utilized. Certain important ad vantages grow out of such structure, and certain of them will be hereinafter pointed out. i

In another form of my invention, namely, that shown in Fig. 3, two independent reinforcing yarns or threads are introduced into the fabric and are respectively interknitted with the main thread. at the two outer sides of the row or rows of, vertically spaced tuck stitches for a sufiicient'distanoe in successive courses to form two stripes or two parts of one composite stripe between. which ap pear the said tuck stitches and into which tuck stitches neither of said reinforcing yarns or threads enters.

Referring first to that form of my invention shown in Figs. 1 and 2, the stripe which preferably extends upon both sides of the line of tuck stitches is desirably formed by introducing an auxiliary or so-called reinforcing yarn or thread in any known manner, beginning at or near the upper end of the stocking and for any suitable width as, for example, from s'x to. ten walesupon each side of the line or lines of Vertically spaced tuck stitches, and also extends desirably throughout and is incorporated into the tuck stitches themselves. This result I have best accomplished by interknitting the auxiliary or reinforcingyarn or thread from edge to edge of the stripe and then floating the same back upon theinside of the fabric to the commencement edge of the stripe and repeating this operation throughout the formation of the entire stripe, the saidfloat ing portions of the yarn or thread being entirely disassociated from the tuck stitches or other 'uctural variations constituting the mock seam, but lying smoothly against the inner face of the stripe at the inside of the stocking and in parallelism with each other and not disarranged with respect to each other as would be the case were a mock seam of sewing machine stitches employed instead of the described structural variations.

Referring more particularly to the drawings, the stocking is'indicated generally at 1,

it having desirably a seamless heel 2 and toe The stocking may be knitted from any suitable material, as for example silk, and beginning at or near the upper end of the stocking as, for example, at the bottom of the socalled welt portion, I introduce a reinforcing yarn or thread which may be fed to the needles in any suitable manner, as for example, by a special yarn fingerat some point where the needles are divided by a special cam, so thatthe needles which are not to take the auxiliary yarn or thread are either elevated or depressed, and the auxiliary yarn or thread is delivered to the other needles including the tuck stitch needles, which tntal number of needles receiving the reinforcing yarn or thread may be of any desired number as, for example, from six to ten at each side of the back media-n line of the stocking.

In Fig. 2 I have represented the main yarn at l and the auxiliary yarn or thread at 5, and for convenience of illustration merely, have represented the two' yarns or threads as incorporated into the knitting at three walesv only beyond the tuck stitch wales at each side ofthe vertically'spaced tuck stitches, it being obvious that the entire reinforced stripe may be of any suitable width. Preferably, however, the stripe is relatively narrow and I am able tomake the stripe of the minimum desired width because the line or lines of vertically spaced tuck stitches forming the mock seam, being formed during the knitting operation, are accurately positioned in a straight line between the edges of the stripe, and at equal distances from both edges thereof, as would not with any certainty be the case ifa line or sewing machinestitches were employed instead of the structural variations.

The knitted loops whereinto the auxiliary yarn or thread 5 is introduced are desirably plain loops outside of the tuck stitches and arev such as are formed in regular knit-ting. At; the back median line of the stocking, I forinduring the knitting operation a mock seam by some suitablestructural variation of the fabric, such, for example, as two lines of vertically spaced tuck stiches, certain of suc-htuck stitches'being indicated at 6, 7, 8, 9, between which I have shown two lines of regular stitches 10, 11, the reinforcing yarn or thread 5 being interknitted as shown into said lines of vertically spaced tucks'titehes and into the lines of plain stitches 10, 11, if the latter be present. My invention is not limited to the employment of a plurality of rows of vertically spaced tuck stitches, as in certain cases a single row of vertically spaced stitches may be sufiicient, as shown in Fig. 4: at ll and the structural variation may be of any other suitable character that would constitute a satisfactory mock seam, as. for xample, drawstitches asshown in Fig. 5 at 11*, 7

Viewing Fig. 2, it will be observed that the auxiliary yarn or thread is incorporated into the rows of vertically spaced tuck stitches, certain of which are shown at 6, 7, '8. 9, so that said tuck stitches areso nearlv closed by the reinforcing yarn or thread that when the stocking is worn the tuck stitches are not sufficiently opened up or stretched to expose the flesh. llloreover the introduction of the reinforcing yarn or thread into thetucl; stitches enlarges to that extent the mock seam, and therefore more nearly simulates the real seam joining the salvage edges of a full fashioned stocking.

Desirably at one outer edge of the stripe. namely the second formed edge thereof, the auxiliary yarn or thread is floated back to the opposite or first formed edge as indicated at 12 in Fig. 2, so that the floated por tions of the auxiliary yarn or thread lie against the inside of the fabric and being of'short lengths with relation to the entire circumference of the stocking, they are not removed, but being permitted to remain, they enhance or consolidate the stripe "appearance and even give a backing to the line or lines of tuck stitches or other structural variations constituting the mock seam.

T he tuck stitches in the same wales or row be spaced apart to any desired extent. In Fig. 2, I have shown seven courses of plain knitting between the tuck stitches, but this number may be lessened or increased and if desired the tuck stitches 6 and 8 and the tuck stitches 7 and 9 need not be side by side, but may be made to break joints, as it were; that is to say, the tuck stitches 6 and 8 would be at different heights, and this effect may be carried out throughout the entire mock seam, formation as shown in Fig. 6 at 11, 11, 11

It will. be eiddent that the line or lines of vertically spaced tuck stitches simulate the actual seam at the back of the leg of a full fashioned stocking and that the stripe simulates the reinforced selvaged edges characteristic of many full fashioned stocking legs.

Where the structural variations which simulate the mock seam are composed of two rows of vertically spaced tuck stitches or other distinguishing loops, it is obvious that such rows of vertically spaced tuck stitches need not be separated by a row or rows of regular loops, as represented in Fig. 2, but that they may be placed close together or adjoining, as shown in Fig. 7 at 11. My invention is not limited to the employment of a plurality of rows of vertically spaced tuck stitches or structural variations but more satisfactory results are secured by employing a plurality of such rows.

The character of the tuck stitch itself may be varied as desired from that shown in Fig. 2, where I have rep-resented each tuck stitch as receiving yarn from five plain loops.

Obviously my invention may be employed at any suitable part of the stocking or other fabric and may extend through any suitable part thereof.

In Fig. 3, I have represented another embodiment of my invention, and with respect thereto all that has been said with respect to the embodiment of the invention shown in 2 applies so far as the number of rows of vertically spaced tuck stitches or other structural variations is concerned and concerning the interposition or absence of a row or rows of plain loops between such tuck stitches or structural variations.

In Fig. 3, I have represented a pair of stripes 13, 14, together constituting a composite stripe, and between which are the tuck stitches or other structural variations.

The pair of stripes which are respectively upon opposite sides of the line of tuck stitches is desirably formed by introducing two auxiliary or so-calied reinforcing threads in any known or suitable manner, beginning desirably at or near the upper end of the stocking and for any suitable width, as, for example, from six to ten wales upon each side of the line or lines of tuck stitches, but without incorporation into the tuck stitches themselves. The result is best accomplished by introducing each of the two reinforcing threads to its series of needles so that said reinforcing threads are interknitted with the main yarn for a suitable number of stitches, after which each reinforcing yarn is floated back to the commencement edge of its own stripes, such action being repeated throughout the length of the stripe. While I refer to two distinct reinforcing yarns which are desirably introduced by two separate yarn guides or fingers, it is to be understood in certain cases I may use a single reinforcing thread which is first fed in each course to a sufficient number of needles to make one of said stripes and is, then severed in each course and then in each course reintroduced to a suflicient number of other needles to make the corresponding portion at the other side of the mock seam. Thus the two parts of the composite stripe are made substantially simultaneously, course after course. Preferably, however, I employ two separate reinforcing threads and in each case float each thread from the terminating edge of its stripe back to the commencement edge thereof. In each case each reinforcing yarn is preferably though not necessarily interlmitted with the main yarn or thread in every course throughout the length of the two stripes.

In the formation of the pair of stripes I introduce a pair of reinforcing yarns 15, 16, which may be fed to the needles in any suitable manner, as, for example, by two special fingers at suitable points where the needles are divided by special cams, so that the needles which are not to take the auxiliary yarns or threads are either elevated or depressed, and the auxiliary yarns or threads are delivered to the other needles which in each case may be of any desired number, as, for example, from six to ten of each side of the back median line of the stocking.

The stocking may be knitted upon any suitable type of machine, as, for example, a circular knitting machine wherein the needle cylinder is stationary and the cam ring rotates or a machine wherein the needle cylinder rotates and the cam ring is stationary. If knitted upon a machine wherein the needle cylinder rotates, I provide means, unnecessary to describe herein at length, to prevent the two reinforcing yarns 01' threads from twisting about each other during those times when said yarns or threads are not being interknitted with the main yarn, that is,

when said reinforcing yarns or threads have reached the concluding edge of each stripe and is withheld from action until such yarn or thread is reintroduced at the commencement edge of its stripe.

In Fig. 3, the main yarn is represented at 17 and the reinforcing yarns are interknitted therewith as described for the desired extent at each side of the rows of verticalhspaced tuck stitches 18, 19, 20, 521, said stitches or other structural variations being provided at suitable intervals throughout the entire length of the stripe as described with respect to Fig. 2. The auxiliary threads li'i, 16 are not incorporated into the tuck stitches but in each case the thread is floated back or away from said tuck stitches as indicated at 22. 23, a; the inside or back of the fabric. hus each stripe is wholly distinct from the mock seam, though coordinating or cooperating therewith to produce the simulation referred to.

It w'illbe evident that in the case of the construction shown in Fig. 3, the line or double line of vertically spaced tuck stitches or other structural variation simulates the actual seam at the back of a leg of a full fashioned stocking, and that the pair of stripes simulate the reinforced selvaged edges characteristic of many full fashioned stocking legs.

Inasmuch as in neither Figs. 2 or 3 are the floating threads sewed down between the two outer edges of the entire stripe, the

ransverse elasticity of the knitted portion of the fabric between said edges or elsewhere is in no way impaired and the float threads occupy such a relatively small'part of the circumference of the stocking or other fabric, that they do not impair its transverse elasticity. By employing a mock seam of tuck stitches or other structural variations I-do not impair the longitudinal elasticity of the stocking as is the case where a mock seam of sewing machine stitches is employed.

I have referred to the fact that a mock seam formed by a structural variation of the fabric and not by a sewed line of sewing machine stitches possesses certain distinct advantages. Among said advantages are the following: Said structural variation mock seam centers the seam with respect to the edges of the stripe and insures a perfectly straight seam. It permits the employment of a narrower stripe because of the certainty that the seam is centered with respect to the edges of the stripe. There is no weakening of the yarn or thread of the fabric by the piercing thereof by a sewing machine needle as is inevitably the case where a line of sewing machine stitches is sewed into the fab ric. The extra step of running the stocking after completion through a sewing machine to place alme of sewing machine stitches therein :is wholly avoided and, this very core siderably lessens the expense of production and especially where the production is great. There is no puckering or bunching or grouping of the floating threads by reason of the presence of the tuck stitches, as is necessarily the case where a sewed line of sewing machine stitches is run through the stripe and the floating threads at the back thereof. If a line of sewing machine stitches were employed and the same passed through the float threads, it is evident that the latter must of necessity be drawn out of true parallel lines with respect to each other, by the sewing machine needle or other parts of the sewing machine. By employing the structural variation mock seam all of the floated portions extend straight across from edge to edge of the stripe. This is particularly important in the case of thin or sheer stockings as in such stockings the bunched appearance of floated threads is very noticeable. Furthermore the employment of a structural variation mock seam eliminates or minimizes waste due to the difficulty of running a sewing machine line of stitches through a loose reinforcement, that is, one having floated threads.

i. do not herein claim the subject matter of my allowed co-pending applications as follows: 592,676, filed Oct. 6, 1922; 594,525, and Get. 14:, 1922; 594:,524, filed Oct. 14,1922.

It is clearly to be understood that my invention may be incorporated in knitted fabric other than stockings and hose.

Having thus described certain specific embodiments of my invention and the best mode known to me for producing the same, I desire it to be understood that although specific terms are employed, they are used in a generic and descriptive sense and not for the purposes of limitation, the scope of the invention being set forth in the following claims.

Claims:

1.. A so-called seamless stocking having lengthwise spaced structural stitch varia tions extending as a whole through a substantial part of the stocking, the adjoining part of the stocking and said structural variations thereof having an auxiliary yarn or thread incorporated thereinto so as with said structural variations to constitute a simulation of a seamed reinforced selvage of a full fashioned stocking, said structural stitch variations constituting an emphasized and substantially closed mock seam because of the incorporation of the reinforcing yarn orthrcad into said seam.

'2. A so-called seamless stocking havingat the backot the leg, a .mock sea-m extending lengthwise thereof, said mock seam being composed of lengthwise spaced structural variations in the knitted fabric, said stocking having, at the back of the leg thereof, a stripe composed-of the regular yarn or lit) thread and a reinforcing yarn or thread, the latter being incorporated into the structure of the said variations.

3. a so-called seamless stocking having at the hack of the leg, a longitudinally extending line of lengthwise spaced tuck stitches constituting a mock seam, and at each side of and incorporated into said line of tuck stitches, a knitted-in auxiliary thread providing a stripe paralleling and embracing said line of tuck stitches and cooperating therewith to produce a simulation of the seamed reinforced selvage of a full fashioned stocking, said mock seam being emphasized and rendered substantially closed in use by the presence of said knitted-in auxiliary thread.

4. A so-called seamless stocking having at the hack of the leg a longitudinally extending duplex line of lengthwise spaced tuck stitches constituting a mock seam and at each side thereof and incorporated into said mock seam a stripe composed of that portion or" the main yarn and an auxiliary yarn knitted in with the main yarn at each side of and also into the line of tuck stitches but floated across said tucl; stitches at the inside of the stocking from the edges of the stripe, thereby producing a simulation of the seamed reinforced selvage of a full fashioned stocking, said auxiliary yarn enlarging the line of tuck stitches and rendering said tuclr stitches substantially closed in use.

5. A so-called seamless stocking having at the back of the leg a longitudinally extending line of lengthwise spaced tuck stitches constituting a mock seam and at each side ill thereof and in close proximity thereto a knitted in auxiliary thread providing a stripe cooperating with said mock seam to produce a simulation of the seamed reinforced selvage of a full fashioned stocking.

6. A. so-called seamless stocking having at the bt ck of the leg a longitudinally extending mock seam composed of lengthwise spaced tuck stitches, and a reinforcement having portions at opposite sides thereof but adjacent thereto and paralleling the same, each said portion of said reinforcement be ing composed of a portion of the main yarn or thread and an auxiliary yarn or thread interknitted therewith but floated at the inside of the stocking, each floating yarn or thread being confined to the lateral dimensions of the stripe, whereby a simulation of the seamed reinforced selvage of a full fashioned stocking is produced and whereby the floated portions are of such short length as not to impair the transverse elasticity of the stocking.

7. A so-called seamless stocking having at the hack of the leg a longitudinally extending line of lengthwise spaced, structural stitch variations constituting a mock seam and at each side thereof and in close proximity thereto, a knitted-in auxiliary thread providing a stripe cooperating with said mock seam to produce a simulation of the seamed, reenforced selvage of a full fashioned stocking.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification.

RUFUS W. SCOTT.

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