US1003986A

US1003986A - Sewing and embroidering machine.

Info

Publication number: US1003986A
Application number: US50346409A
Authority: US
Inventors: Robert Cornely
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1909-06-21
Filing date: 1909-06-21
Publication date: 1911-09-26
Anticipated expiration: 1928-09-26

Description

R. GORNELY. SEWING AND EMBBOIDEBING MACHINE. ArrLIoATIoN FILED JUNI: 21, 190s.

1,003,986. Patented Sept.26,1911.

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ROBERT CORNELY, OF PARIS, FRANCE.

SEWING AND EMBROIDERING MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

.Patented Sept. 26, 19.11.

Application filed .Tune 21, 1909. Serial No. 503,464.

To all whom it may concern;

Be it known that I, ROBERT CoRNnLY, resident of Paris, France, have invented new and useful Improvements in Sewing and Embroidering Machines, which invention is fully set forth in the following specification.

The present invention relates to improvements in universal feed sewing or embroidering machines and has for its object to provide such machines with means whereby the width of the seam as determined by the loscillation of the needle bar and the length of the stitch as determined by the feed, are automatically increased or decreased according to the direction of the feed in order to produce imitation of hand embroidery for embroidering names, monograms or any kind of other ornaments requiring a variable width, as the embroideries done by hand. The accompanying drawings represent an example of a machine constructed for this purpose, in which the needle produces a sealn of variable width according to the direction of the feed, said feed being under the control of a crank handle as is usual in universal feed sewing or embroidering machines.

In this machine forming the object of the present invention, to the contrary of universal feed machines, the needle bar does not turn with the crank handle which governs the direction of the feed, but on the contrary, said needle bar performs its oscillation always in one and the same direction, but these oscillations increase or decrease automatically according to the direction of the feed. But in order to obtain a perfect work, the crank handle must also control automatically the length of the feed, viz. the length of the stitches, so that the stitches become short when the oscillation of the needle is long and when the'oscillation of the needle becomes small, so that when the oscillation of the'needle is reduced to zero in order to produce a plain seam, then the length of the stitch must reach its maximum.

Figure 1 is a view in side elevation with certain parts broken away showing a machine embodying my invention. Fig. 2 is a front elevational view of the same machine. Figs. `3, l and 5 are diagrammatic views.

Main shaft 1 of the machine is provided with a gear wheel 2 which drives a gear Wheel 3 of double its size which is secured upon shaft 4. Shaft 4t drives a grooved Cam 5 which imparts an oscillating motion to lever 6 which swings on its fulcrum 7. This to and fro motion is transmitted by crank 9 and lever 10 which swings on fulcrum 12, to a rod 11 and finally to the needle bar 13 which latter needle bar is free to oscillate on its hinge 14. In the drawing, crank 9 represented in its Ymedium position, but its end 8 can move in the slot of lever 6, as the other end of crank 9 turns freely upon fulcrum 15 Vwhich secures it to lever 10. Now, when roller S of crank 9 is at the lowest part of the slot of lever 6, it is clear that the needle bar 13 will perform the maximum of its oscillation and when, on the other hand, roller 8 is at the highest part of the slot of lever 6, which position corresponds with the fulcrlun 7 of lever 6, then the oscillation of the needle will be entirely stopped and the machine will then produce the plain seam only without oscillation. For rendering the width of this oscillation of the needle automatically variable according to the direction of the crank handle 16 which governs the direction of the feed, `the turning motion of the crank handle 16 is transmitted by

cog wheels

17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25 and corresponding intermediate shafts to a grooved cam 26 which latter therefore turns with the crank handle 16. This cam 26 causes rod 33 to move up and down and this rod 33 transmits its up and down motion'to crank 9 and thus displaces roller 8 and thus increases or decreases the oscillation of the needle according to the position of the crank handle 16 which governs the direction of the feed. In order to produce a work which looks like hand embroidery, the oscillation of the needle must place the transverse or cross threads as close as possible together, but when said oscillations decrease and come down to a plain seam, then the length of the stitch must be gradually increased, as otherwise said stitches would come so close together that the cloth would be cut. This will be made clear by reference to diagrammatic view Fig. 5, wherein it will be observed that the needle performs its oscillations in a direction across the line of feed A-B. The needle first stitches into the cloth at a and then, vwhile the feed of the machine moves the cloth forward, the needle oscillates to b, where it stitches again into the cloth and thus leaves upon the cloth a transverse or cross-thread a. Then the feed of the machine and the oscillation of the needle continue simultaneously, transverse or cross-threads ZJ', c, cl, etc., being placed on the cloth. Thus the length of the feed must also be variable automatically according to the width or amplitude of the oscillation and according to the direction of the feed. This is obtained by the upper groove of cam 26 which actuates a lever 27 the opposite end of which is provided with a set screw 28 which governs the length of the feed in a manner presently to be described. An up and down motion is iniparted to slide 29 in a manner usual in this art and such means is illustrated, for example, in U. S. Patent to Bonnaz No. 83,910 of November 10, 1863. A part only of this mechanism is shown in Fig. 1 and consists of a cam 53 on the main shaft 1, a lever 54 operated by said cam the end ofvwhich lever presses on a shoulder 36 projecting from slide 29. This lever gives a positive down thrust to the slide and a spring 34 returns the slide to its initial position. Projecting from slide 29 is a bracket 29 which supports a sleeve 30 having an inclined groove and slidable on tube 49. As lever 27 which carries said set screw 28 receives an up and down motion from cam 26 and as said cam 26 turns with the crank handle 16, it is clear that according to the position of said crank handle 16, the length of the stitch will be increased or decreased automatically and as both cam grooves which produce the variation of the oscillation of the needle and the variation of the length of the stitch are provided on the same cylinder 26, both variations will take place simultaneously and automatically at the required moment of change in the direction of the feed.

The feed bar 32 which holds the presser foot 38 is suspended at a double hinge or universal joint 35 47, Fig. 2, which permits said feed bar 32 to move in all directions, as hinge 35 is supported by a collar 48 which is movable upon the central tube 49 of the machine, while the shaft 47 of said collar 48 engages in a projection 46 of slide 44 wherein it is also movable. This slide 44 with spring 45 controls the up and down motion of the feed bar 32 by means of cam 40 of main shaft 1 of the machine acting through the usual bell crank lever means 41 on a projection 43 of slide 44.

mounted on pin 51 secured to bracket 52 fast to tube 49. The lower end of lever 31 engages in collar 37 connected with the feed bar 32. Any movement of the upper part of lever 31 caused by its engagement with surface 50 causes the lower arm to swing the feed bar 32, the extent of this movement depending on the position of the member 30 which is determined by the cam 26 through its connecting means therewith. The arrangement for governing this feed in all directions under the control of handle 16 is as follows: The bracket 52 which supports the feed lever 31 is secured upon the central tube 49 of the machine which latter is free to turn within

brackets

56 and 57 of the front plate 39 and said tube 49 is governed from the crank handle 16 by means of

cog wheels

17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 58 and 59 and the

intermediate shafts

63, 64 and 65, thus the direction of the feed is caused to follow always the direction of the crank handle 16, which constitutes the well known universal feed motion in all directions.

The up and down motion o-f the needle bar is obtained in the well known manner by means of a reciprocating slide 60 engaging a pin 61 of main shaft 1.

From the foregoing description, it will be understood that the length of the feed z'. e. the length of the stitches measured in the direction of feed and the oscillation of the needle bar or the width of the seam as meas- 'f ured across the direction of feed are auto-- matically varied according to the direction of the feed, thereby producing effects in embroidering which are produced by hand.

Fig. 4 lines of embroidery obtained by my improvements corresponding to dierent posit-ions of the handle 16; and in order to simplify the explanation, the circle of revolution of the illustrates diagrammatically 'the crank handle 16 has been divided in four sections only with the corresponding positions of said crank handle. Vhen, for instance, the crank handle 16 is moved in the direction of the arrow from position d to position a (so that the feed works toward the operator) then the machine will produce the embroidery seam shown between lines and z with the largest4 width and the shortest stitches; when moving the handle further to position b (the machine working toward the Y d thevmachine working to the right) then the seam shown between lines v and will be produced with increasing width of the seam and gradually decreasing of the length of the stitches. It is clear that in this manner the machine will produce automatically and according to the direction of the feed broad, fine, increasing and decreasing lines, exactly like a writing pen, thus imitating perfect-ly the embroidery of monograms, letters, such as shown in Fig. 3, figures, scallops or any kind of designs as when embroidered by hand.

I wish it to be distinctly understood that I do not confine myself to the use of the particular mechanisms and devices herein shown and described for accomplishing the several objects in View, as it is evident that their mechanical equivalents may be substituted without departing from the spirit of my invention. It is also evident that the forces for actuating the devices or mechanisms may be derived from any other shaft or movingpart of the machine.

What I claim is l. In a sewing or embroidering machine, the combination of a universal feed mechanism, a needle holder and means oscillating the same in a fixed plane and automatic means simultaneously controlling the amplitude of the oscillations of said holder inversely as the length of feed according to the direction of said feed.

2. In a sewing or embroidering machine, the combination of a universal feed mechanism, a needle holder and means oscillating the same, cam operated means for Varying the amplitude of the oscillations of said holder while inversely varying the length of said feed, and means for simultaneously changing the direction of said feed and operating said cam means.

3. In a sewing or embroiderin machine, the combination of a universal feed mechansm, an oscillating needle holder and means for oscillating thc same, and aut-omatic means simultaneously controlling the amplitude of the oscillations of the needle holder and the length of the feed according to the direction of said feed.

4. In a sewing or embroidering the' combination of a universal feed mechanism, an oscillating needle holder, and means for oscillating the same and automatic means simultaneously controlling the amplitude of the oscillations of said needle holder inversely as the length of the feed according to the direction of said feed.

5. In a sewing or embroidery machine, the combination of a universal feed mechanism and hand-operated means for varying the direction of its feed, a needle holder and means for oscillating the same, cam-operated means for simultaneously and inversely varying the amplitude of the oscillations of the needle holder and the length of the feed, said cam means being operated by said hand-operated means.

In testimony whereof I have signed this specification in the presence 0f two subscribing Witnesses.

ROBERT CORNELY.

Witnesses:

EMIL CORNELY, H. C. Coxn.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. C.

machine,