US1003318A - Garment-fitter. - Google Patents

Description

I. M. BARTLBTT.

GARMBNT FITTER.

APPLIOATION FILED Nov. 22, 1910.

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IRENE MERRILL BARTLETT, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

GARMENT-FITTER.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Sept. 12, 1911.

Application filed November 22, 1910. Serial No. 593,600.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, IRENE MERRILL BART- LETT, a citizen of the United States, residing at the borough of Manhattan, in the city, county, and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Garment-Fitters, of which the following is a specification, reference being had to the accompanying drawings. y

This invention relates to improvements in garment fitters for use by garment-makers in obtaining the contour and the dimensions of the body of the customer to be fitted; and an object of this invention is to provide a garment-litter which may be readily applied to the body of the customer, which may be accurately fitted thereto and which will give reliable results.

Anot-her object of this invent-ion is to provide a garment-fitter which may be applied by unskilled persons with good results and which may, therefore, be shipped by the garment-maker to the home of the customer, applied by the latter to herself, then removed after being fitted and iinally sent back to the garment-maker. In this way time formerly spent in fitting garments may be savedand the customer is moreover saved the trouble and expense of leaving her home and going to the shop of the garmentmaker; for, the latter can ship the garmentfitter to the home of the customer whether that be in the city or country and the customer can with the assistance of a friend or a maid fit the garment-itter to her body, take the impression and return the garmenttter to the garment-maker.

Another object of this invention is to provide a garment-fitter which may be readily adjusted upon and accurately iitted to the body of the customer and which may be separated into sections, the latter forming complete patterns or guides from which can be accurately cut the desired garment for persons of either seX, whereby drafting, measuring by tape, refitting, stock patterns and the like 'are done away with absolutely.

A further object of this invention is to` provide a garment-fitter which may be read-` ily adjusted o-n the body of the customer so as to form an exact and accurately-fitted skeleton-drapery which may be separated into several sections, the same forming complete patterns or guides, from which the desired garment for persons of either seX may be accurately cut anddrafting, measuring by tape, refit-tings, stock patterns and the like may be absolutely done away with.

In the drawings illustrating'the principle of this invention and the best mode now` known to me of applying that principle, Figure l is a perspective view of my new garment-litter, the left side being shown thrown open and the right side of the back being mostly omitted for the sake of clearfv a guide.

The garment-fitter consists of two parts or halves which are substantially the same in construction; therefore, it will suihce to describe only one of the halves. Each half consists essentially of five sections; namely, a front or bust section, a side section, a hip section, a back section and a sleeve section.

The bust section may be described as follows: To the upper end of each of two longitudinal strips a, a', which are of unequal length, is fastened the base-plate Z2 (Fig. 4) of a two-part clasp-member c the other part of which is in the form of a small wheel pivotally and centrally mounted on the base-plate ZJ. Some of these small wheels are formed with hooks and are marked UZ (right-hand side of Fig. 8 and Fig. 5) while the others are formed ,with eyes and are marked CZ (left-hand side of Fig. The hooks of the wheels al are adapted to engage in the eyes of the wheels d so that the clasp-members may be interlocked with each other. Mounted on the strip a, which is the shorter one, is a number of'clasp-members c, through the wheel-members d of which is slipped the strip a (see dotted lines in Fig. 5). The other and longer strip a is slipped through the wheel-members d of two-part strip-guides c (Fig. 7 the base-members of which are in all respects like the base-plates b (Fig. 4) of the claspmembers c, c and which are in construction practically identical with the latter, the only dierence being that the wheelmembers d" are formed with neither hooks nor eyes. One end of a bust-impression strip a is slipped through the wheel d of the clasp-member c to which the upper end of thestrip a" is attached. The lower end' of;

this bust-impression strip is slipped through the wheel d of a strip-guide Gsecond from the top of the strip a and the body-portion of this strip a extends in the form of a V between the strips a, a with its mid-portion fitted slidablyin the wheel of the clasp- Inember c (or c) fastened to the top of the longitudinal strip a. To the base-plate Z) of each clasp-member c or G that is mounted lon the strip a isvfastened one end of a transverse strip e, the other end thereof being free and being passed slidably through the plate b of a strip-guide c mounted on the strip a and directly across from the clasp-member c (or 0) to which the end of the transverse strip e is fastened. It is obvious that the longitudinal strip af may be moved on the transverse'strips e toward and from the longitudinal strip a, since the strip-'guides are mounted slidably on thetransverse strips e, Through' the wheel of the claspfmember c to which is attachedY the upper end of the strip @there is passed the free lower end of a collar strip af the upper en'd of which is fastened to theback-plate of a clasp-member c. To the latteriis also fastened one end of a shoulder-impression strip e the other end ofwhich is free and is slipped through the wheel ofthe clasp-member 0 attached to the upper end4 of the longitudinal strip as.

The side section has three longitudinal strips f, f; f of unequal'length. The upper end of the long strip f is, like the up- 'per ends" of" the longitudinal strips a, a, stitched Lto thebase-plate b of a clasp-member c; and this strip VfA is,`like the strip a', passed lslidably through the wheels o-f stripguides'c. The upper end of the medium length strip fV is formed with a loop f* through which passes slidably .the sleeve band g. Like the strip'a, the strip f passes slidably throughthe wheels of clasp-members c. The short strip f is between the other two strips f, f and its upper end is fastenedt-o the back-plate or base-plate b of a strip-guide c. l about the hip line and the strip f extends slidably through the wheels of strip-guides 'in 'a manner entirely similar to the strip a. To the vupper end of the sleeve-band g is fastenedn one end h of a shoulder-impres-V sion strip L on which is slidably mounted the clasp-membe`r c or c that is attached to the'upper end of the strip f The other end of the shoulder-impression strip h is free and is opposed to the free-end of the shoulder-impression fstrip `ve. Just below Ythe transverse shoulder-impression stv-rip 7L and forming part of :the side sectionV is a transversestrip 'i one end i" of which is in the form of a loop through which passes freely the? sleeve`=band '9. TheV other end of `the strip i isV free and is slipped through the plateib" ofaV stripeguide Von the longitudinal The latter is located at strip To` the base-plate of each of the clasp-members c mounted on the longitudinal strip f is attached an end of a transverse strip j the other end of which is free and passes through the plate b of a stripguide c mounted on the longitudinal strip f'. Further, the transverse strips "j which lie below the hip line pass through plates b of strip-guides on the short strip f. From this it follows that the longitudinal strips f, f may be moved to and from each other and to and from the strip f on the transverse strips j.

The hip section, like the side section, has three longitudinal strips 7c, 7c', 7c of unequal length. Like the short strip f, the short strip 7c extends up to about the hip line and its upper end is fastened to the base-plate of a strip-guide c and lies between the other two strips 7c, 7c. The upper end of the long strip is fastened to the baseplate of a clasp-member c', while the upper end of the medium-length strip It is inY the form of a loop 7c* through which passes freely the sleeve-band g. The strip 7c is slipped through the wheels of claspmembers c which are adapted and arranged to interlock with the clasp-members c mounted on the strip f, whereby the side section and the hip section are detachably connected with each other. The long strip la isslipped through wheels of strip-guides and through the plates Z) of the latter are passed slidably the transverse strips m one end of each of which is free and the other end of each of which is fastened to the baseplate Z) of a clasp-member c mounted on the strip 7:. To the top of the sleeve band g is fastened an end 1L of a shoulder-impression strip m which passes through the wheel of the clasp-member c' that is attached to the upper end of the long strip 7c. Below the strip m is a transverse strip m having one of its ends in the form of a loop n through which passes freely the sleeve-band g and having its other and free end passed through the plate b of a strip-guide mounted on the long strip c. This hip section is provided with a pair of hip-impression strips o which cross each other somewhat in Vthe form of a letter X and which extend diagonally between the longitudinal strips L", 7c near the hip line. The ends of these hip-impression strips 0 are free and are passed through wheels of strip-guides on the strip and through wheels of claspmembers on the strip L, as shown in Fig. 1 (see dotted lines).

The back section has a pair of longitudinal strips p, p', the upper end of each of which is fastened to the back plate of a clasp-member. The strip y) extends through wheel-members of clasp-members c which are arranged to interlock with clasp-meinbers c on the adjacent strip p of the back section of the other half of the harness. The other strip p of the back section passes through Wheel-members of strip-guides c". One end of each of the transverse strips g of the back section is fastened to a baseplate of a clasp member mounted upon the strip 72,' and these transverse strips are slipped through the slotted base-plates of the strip-guides which are mounted upon the longitudinal strip 2) of the back section. rlhe other ends of these transverse strips g are free and are opposed to the free ends of the transverse strips m of the hip section. At its top the back section is provided with a clasp-member c* to the base-plate b of which are attached an end of the shoulder-impression strip r and a back collar-impression strip S. The latter extends toward the strip p and passes "r through the Wheel of the clasp-member attached to the upper end of the strip 29,' while the shoulder-impression strip r eX- tends in the opposite direction and passes through the Wheel of the clasp-member c l attached to the upper end of the strip 2?.

rlhe back section is further provided with al back-impression strip p which extends obliquely from the top of the strip p to the next-to-the-topmost clasp-member on the strip p, the lower end of the back-impression strip p passing through the Wheel of the last-named clasp-member, While its upper end is slipped through the Wheel of the clasp-member attached to the top of the strip p.

The sleeve section is shown in Fig. 2 and consists of a series of longitudinal strips t the upper end of each of which is formed With a hook 15 and of transverse strips u the ends u of which are free. The longitudinal strips t are passed through Wheelmembers of clasp-members and of stripguides c and the transverse strips u are fastened to the slotted base-plates b of these clasp-members and the strips themselves are passed through the base-plates of these stripguides. The strip ends f", ffl, n and a" are formed with eyes t adapted to engage the hooks t on the ends of the longitudinal sleeve strips t. It is obvious that after the main portion of the garment-fitter shown in Fig. l has been fitted to the person, the sleeve section (shown in Fig. 2) may be hooked to the body portion of the garmentlitter and an impression taken of the sleeve.

In assembling the sections of the garmentfitter, the clasp-members c on the longitudinal strip f are interlocked with the clasp- -mernbers c on the longitudinal strip la', whereby the side and hip sections of each half are detachably connected With each other. rEhe ba'ck sections of each half are similarly detachably connected with each other by the interlocking of the clasp-ineinbers c, c on the strips p of those sections lar-impression strip s. The clasp-members 0 at the tops of the longitudinal strips a, f are interlocked with the clasp-members c fastened to the tops of the longitudinal strips p', 7c, respectively.

To make the impression, the garmentfitter is assembled and adjusted on the person of the customer, the sleeve section being left off for the time being and the clasp-members e, 0 of the several sections being interlocked, as above set forth. The loose or free 4ends of the collar-impression strips, the shoulder-impression strips and the transverse strips are now manipulated, as by pulling, and the longitudinal strips are pulled into such a position that all the strips finally fit the body of the customer. When the front collar-impression strips a* are in their proper positions, their free ends are pinned to the upper ends of the strips a. The loose or free ends of the back collarimpression strips s are pinned to each other, when adjusted, and the opposed free ends of the transverse strips j, e are similarly pinned in pairs, as are also the opposed free ends of the transverse strips g, m, of the back and hip sections. The opposed free ends of the shoulder-impression strips c, 7L, and m', r are likewise pinned together. The bust-impression strip a is drawn down over the bust by pulling on its ends and the latterl are pinned to the longitudinal strips which they overlie. The hip-impression strips 0 are drawn taut and their loose ends are pinned to the longitudinal strips Which they overlie. The back impression strip ya is adjusted in the same manner as the bustimpression strip and its loose ends pinned. To indicate the proper length of the dress or other garment, markers 'v are fastened to the longitudinal strips. The sleeve sections are then adjusted and the strips Z5, u are drawn into place in the same manner as the strips of the body of the harness.

In the manipulation of t-he strips, it is desirable that they yield readily and conform snugly to the irregularities of the body. The two-part clasp-members and strip-guides having their parts movable With respect to each other insure that the strips may be accurately and readily positioned and that the garment-fitter, When adjusted and then removed, shall present a true impression of the body of the person to be fitted. Of course, the loose ends of the various strips may be fastened together in any desirable and suitable manner other than pinning, although I have'found pinning them the most expeditious Way of fastening these ends. The strips may be formed of any desirable material but I prefer to use Woven-Web material vvhich has a certain amount of stillness and affords a certain degree of frictional resistance to movement, after its adjustment, particularly where tivo strips pass each other in the same stripguide or clasp-member. Again, the st-ripguides c may be used in place of the claspmembers c, c and the ends of the strips would in that case be provided with hooks and eyesjust as the ends of the strips t of the sleeve section and the ends of the strips mf and z', for example, are thus provided. Of course, the clasp members c, c are true V'strip-guiding members as Well as` claspmembers.

I am aware that it is not new to provide in a garment-litter of the character hereinbefore described a strip-connecting member having a base-plate in Which is mount-ed a clasp and in which are held lboth the longitudinal and transverse strips; but, so far as known to me, I am the first to provide in a garment-litter of this type two-part. stripguiding members in -which the parts are movable with respect to each other and in which both the parts are adapted, designed and used to carry and guide the strips, one part of these strip-guides guiding and carrying the transverse strips and the other part of the strip-gui des carrying and guiding the longitudinal strips. In the structure just referred to as old, the clasp neither carries nor guides the strips and the latter are carried solely by the other part of the stripconnecting device,`towit, by the base-plate on-vvhich the clasp is rotatably mounted.

I claim:

l. A garment-fitter of the character described having a flexible longitudinal strip; a flexible transverse strip; and a two-part strip-guiding member the parts of which are movable With respect to each other; the longitudinal strip being mounted in and carried by one of said parts and the transverse strip being mounted in and carried by the other of said parts.

2. A garment-fitter of the character described having flexible longitudinal strips; flexible transverse strips; and two-part strip-guiding members the parts of Which are movable With respect to each other and Which are formed with interlocking means for detachablypconnecting said strips; t-he latter being mounted in and carried by the parts of said strip-guiding members and eachA of said parts carrying and having mounted Within it one of said strips. K 3. A garment-litter of the character described having a flexible longitudinal strip;

a flexible transverse strip; and a two-part strip-guiding device consisting of a baseplate member and a Wheel member mounted rotatably thereon, one of said strips being carried by said base-plate member and the other of said strips being mounted in and carried by said Wheel member.

4f. A sectional garment-fitter of the character described having a pair of front or bust sections detachably connected with ea ch other; a pair of back sections detachably connected with each other; said sections consisting of flexible longitudinal strips and transverse strips; two-part strip-guides the parts of which are movable with respect to each other; said longitudinal strips being mounted in and carried by one part of each of said strip-guides and said transverse strips being mounted in and carried by the other part of each of said strip-guides; a pair ot' front collar strips, one for each of said front sections; and a pair of back collar strips, one for each of said back sections; one end of each of said front collar strips being connected to an end of one of said back collar strips and the other ends of said strips being mounted slidably in and carried by said strip-guides and being normally free and arranged to be fastened in adjusted position.

5. A sectional garment-fitter of the character described having a front section; a side sect-ion; a hip section; and a back section; each of said sections being provided with a shoulder strip and with means for detachably connecting said sections together; one end of each of said strips being fastened in place and the other ends of said strips being free and arranged to be fastened together in pairs.

G. A sectional garment-fitter of the character described consisting of a plurality of sect-ions provided With means for detachably connecting said sections together and each of said sections being provided with a shoulder strip; one pair of said sections being each provided with a front collar strip and another pair of said sections being each provided with a back collar strip; said back collar strips having free ends adapted to be fastened together and said shoulder strips having free ends arranged to be fastened together in pairs in adjusted position; two-part strip-guides the parts of Which are pivotally connected With each other; said free ends being mounted in and carried by parts of said two-part stripguides.

7. A sectional garment-litter of the character described havinga pair of front or bust sections detachably connected with each other; a pairY of back sections detachably connected with each other; two-part stripguides; a pair of front-collar strips, one for each of said front sections; and a pair of back-collar strips, one for each of said back sections; one end of each of said front-collar strips being connected to an end of one of said back-collar strips and the other ends of said strips being normally free and arranged to be fastened in adjusted position; the parts of said two-part strip-guides being rotatable with respect to each other and said free ends being mounted in the rotatable parts of said strip-guides.

8. A garment-litter of the character described having flexible longitudinal strips; flexible transverse strips; two-part stripguiding members the parts of which are pivotally connected and which are rotatable with respect to each other, said strips being mounted in and carried by the parts of said strip-guiding members; and a strip the ends of which are mounted in and carried by the parts of the latter and which extends obliquely between a pair of said strips.

9. A garnient-tter of the character described having flexible longitudinal strips; flexible transverse strips; two-part stripguiding members one part of each of which is attached to an end of one of said transverse strips and through and by the other part of each of which one of said longitudinal strips passes slidably and is carried; and two-part strip-guiding members through and by one part of each of which one of said transverse strips passes slidably and is carried and through and by the other part of each of which passes slidably and is carried the other of said longitudinal strips; the other ends of said transverse strips being normally free.

l0. A garment litter of the character described having flexible transverse strips provided with clasp devices; iexible longitudinal strips one of which is carried by said clasp devices; and two-part strip-guiding members the parts of which are movable with respect to each other; another of said longitudinal strips being mounted in and carried by one part of each of said members and said transverse strips being mounted in and carried by the other part-s of said members.

11. A garment-fitter of the character described having fiexible transverse strips provided with clasp devices; iexible longitudinal strips one of which is carried by the latter; and two-part strip-guiding members the parts of which are rotatable with respect to each other and in and by one part of each of which the other of said longitudinal strips is mounted and carried and through and by the other part of which pass and are carried said transverse strips.

12. A sectional garment-litter consisting of a pair of halves which are of substantially the same construction and each of which consists of a front section; a back section; a side section; and a hip sect-ion; said front sections being provided with means for detachably fastening the same together; said back sections being provided with means for detachably fastening them together; said hip and side sections being provided with means for fastening the same detachably together and with sleeve bands; and each of said sections being made up of flexible longitudinal and transverse strips and of two-part strip-guiding members in and by the parts of which the latter are mounted and carried; the parts of said members being movable with respect to each other.

13. A garment-fitter of the character described having flexible longitudinal and transverse strips which cross one another; and two-part strip-guiding members the parts of each of which are pivotally connected and rotatable with respect to each other; said strips being mounted in and carried by each of said parts.

In witness whereof I hereunto set my hand this twenty-first day of November; 1910; at New York city, New York, in the presence of the two undersigned witnesses.

IRENE MERRILL BARTLETT.

Witnesses:

E. I. MCCARTHY, JAMES HAMILTON.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for ive cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. C.

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