UA56991C2 - Cosmetic composition for topical application with anhydrous base (variants), method for its manufacture, eye shadows and cosmetic film-forming system - Google Patents

Abstract

Novel cosmetic compositions containing topical delivery systems for polar dermatologically active agents are disclosed. Active agents, for example, skin revitalizing alpha hydroxy acids are absorbed or adsorbed on to preferably porous carrier particles with the assistance of a viscous polar solvent such as glycerin, if necessary, and dispersed in an anhydrous cosmetic base along with a film-forming system. Such compositions can be formulated into a variety of different cosmetic products, for example eye shadows, eye treatment primers and lip treatments, each providing significant immediate cosmetic benefits and longer term dermatologic activity.

Description

Description of the invention

The invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing promising systems that provide new ways of applying dermatologically active agents to cosmetically significant areas of the stratum corneum of the skin. The composition of the invention is particularly, but not exclusively, useful for eye enhancement, which provides a cosmetic benefit to areas near the eyes such as the eyelids, under-eye skin, outer corners of the eyes, and useful for lip makeup and other important areas.

The invention includes new film-forming systems that contribute to the application of an active agent. These 710 film forming systems provide additional improvement and are useful independent of application systems.

A person's eyes themselves serve as a central factor in their identification and personification, and also attract the attention of other people. In any face-to-face contact, the eyes are an important means of non-verbal communication. The eyelids and facial skin around the eyes determine their appearance, and thus the impression of a person. Accordingly, compositions for eye make-up make up a significant part in the production of cosmetics. 12 Eyes are a cosmetically sensitive and sometimes difficult area for makeup. They can have birth defects, defects and disorders, with age, as well as due to weather, diet, etc., the areas near the eyes deteriorate rapidly.

High-quality eye makeup can cause a significant visual and cosmetic benefit to a person due to a dramatic improvement in their appearance.

Some common skin problems around the eyes include the formation of wrinkles, including small, cracking of the skin, acne and its discoloration. Such problems can also be caused by defects of the lower and upper eyelids, in particular areas. under the eyes, as well as the corners of the eyes, especially their outer corners, known as "sapiiv", which is prone to the appearance of cracks and wrinkles, often crudely called "crow's feet".

In view of these problems, the cosmetics industry offers a wide range of corrective products to hide, fill, color or otherwise treat unsightly areas of the skin near the eyes. Liquid mascara, eye pencils, and other eyelash treatments are used to enhance and emphasize the appearance of eyelashes, eyebrows, and the edges of the eyelids, and they can have a beneficial and even extraordinary effect on the eyes. A more significant object of the present invention is cosmetic products used for make-up of important areas of the skin near the eyes, especially the eyelids, areas located under the eyes and near the outer corners of the eyes. Such cosmetics are eye shadows, creams and pencils. Although general cosmetics such as primers and make-up can be used to make up areas of the skin near the eyes, caution is required as there is a risk of Ge! damage to the eyes by burning components or those that cause allergies, as well as due to the appearance of tumors or bacterial infection. at

A wide range of eye make-up products are available at any beauty supply store, and the patent literature is replete with hundreds, if not thousands, of suggestions and solutions to the various problems encountered in achieving the desired level of cosmetic improvement of the skin around the eyes. See, for example, Fr

Megsado O.5. Rayepi Mo4.783.333 5 Siegepdappeg O.5. Raiepi 5,073,364, the disclosure of which is provided in the following references.

However, in these given data, none of the suggestions or solutions provide a completely satisfactory eye make-up for many users. Existing eye pencils usually begin to fade within a few hours C after application, while sensitive facial skin may develop clearly visible wrinkles, defects c may also appear under the influence of water, for example, tears, rain, perspiration, etc. Eye pencil foundations can alleviate these problems, but they are not guaranteed to be safe for the skin.

Other eye products may be difficult to apply in an even or uniform layer, unpleasant or tacky to the touch, or have poor film-forming ability (difficult to apply), high resistance to application, or difficulty in removal. Few eye products provide long-lasting and structural improvement to the skin, with the exception of specialty eye creams and moisturizers, which

Ge") contain skin-nourishing ingredients. In general, such eye creams are intended for use at night and cannot satisfactorily hold the eyeliner layer, so they cannot be used during the day, as they do not provide a significant improvement in appearance.

Te) 20 In theory, it would be desirable to avoid filing separate applications for cosmetically effective and dermatologically active ingredients due to the direct introduction of the dermatologically active ingredient into

With a cosmetic composition for the eyes. However, this is difficult to do.

The term "dermatologically active" in this case defines materials whose effect on the skin provides a long-term improvement of one or another property, and this improvement continues or begins after the removal of cosmetic makeup. In this way, dermatological activity differs from cosmetic properties, which

GF) are effective only when cosmetics are applied to the skin. There are many known chemical compounds that have a profound physiological effect on the skin. One such group of dermatologically active compounds is alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids of relatively low molecular weight, for example, with 10 or less carbon atoms. These acids, commonly referred to as "alpha-hydroxy acids", 60 are known to have a number of beneficial effects on the skin. Abbreviated as "AHA" for them, common in both the popular press and technical literature, alpha hydroxy acids can moisturize dry skin and improve conditions including acne and psoriasis, as well as other skin abnormalities. AHAs are also effective in nourishing the skin.

Depending on the concentration and duration of application, they can cause or stimulate exfoliation and exfoliation of the outer layer of keratin and horny tissues of the skin, as well as stimulate the restoration of new layers of the skin, which provides a significant improvement in its appearance.

Some AHAs used for this purpose are simple alpha-hydroxy acids, namely glycolic acid, as well as lactic, citric and malic acids. These acids are known as "fruit acids" because they are found in fruits, while glycolic acid is found in sugar cane. There are many other AHAs, as well as alpha-keto acid equivalents and the like, that are known or hoped to be useful for skin nourishment and other skin-beneficial functions. Some beta-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid, also have beneficial properties for the skin. Some of these "leather acids" are listed in the UM ei ai

O.5.Raiepi Mo5.091.171, as well as in the links provided here.

The poor cosmetic condition of the skin around the eyes of many individuals leads to an attempt to make these areas 7/0 the primary target for skin-beneficial agents such as AHAs. The usefulness of AHAs is usually due to their hydrophilicity, easy solubility in water, and in the case of lactic acid, the fact that it is liquid at room temperature (above 16.8°C). This hydrophilicity, as a rule, is incompatible with such normally hydrophobic cosmetic products for eyes such as pencils or foundations The absence of water in such eye cosmetic compositions results in the small amount of active hydrophilic substances such as AHAs /5 May either lose their activity due to chemical and physicochemical interactions or cannot be applied to the skin in a similar hydrophilic or aqueous environment.

In addition, the preferred environments for such agents are very acidic, these conditions are difficult to provide on the surface of the skin, which is treated with anhydrous or substantially hydrophobic cosmetic preparations. A critical problem for any cosmetic products for the eyes is to get rid of their irritating or stimulating 2o allergy and pathogenic eye reaction properties. AHAs can be very acidic and are known to be strong irritants, even when used on less sensitive areas of the skin. The removal of irritant properties is of particular importance for products used during the day to treat the eyes and other sensitive areas of the skin.

One way of applying dermatologically and cosmetically active agents in a cosmetic preparation is to incorporate the active agent in or on suitable carrier particles. Small porous particles or microspheres are of special importance as carriers. In this approach, the problem is that there is an affinity between the medium i) containing the active product and the microspheres containing the active agent with which these microspheres are saturated, in which case it is necessary to overcome this affinity to release the active agent. It is also important that the applied base does not have a greater affinity for the dermatologically active substance than the carrier, because otherwise the active agent may be released from the pores of the carrier to the base prematurely and dissipate.

Zpaeiteg her aI. 0.5. Rayepi 5,292,512 discloses a cosmetic composition for topical use, in which such dermatologically active agents as anti-acne agents, for example, retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, hormones, antifungal agents, antibiotics, etc., are present. for application to the skin, absorbed on particles of the carrier. Typical carrier particles are microspheres made of organic polymers. The active product is introduced into the microspheres by dissolving it in suitable solvents, for example, water, glycerin and the like. (See column 4, lines 47 - 54). yu

The purpose of the treatment is to introduce active products into the sebaceous glands so that these products are released under the epidermis. For this Zpayeteg ey a! use very small microspheres, of which 8,095 have a diameter between 3 and 10 µm, which are suitable in size to enter the bags under the epidermis. (See column 1, line 45 and to column 2, line 40). Adhesives do not offer either a means of delivering dermatologically active agents to the outer surface of the stratum corneum, or a means of controlled release of active agents, especially hydrophilic active agents from an anhydrous cosmetic composition onto this surface. Zpaegteg her aI| also provide subcutaneous penetration without release on the surface. "" ЗПпайтег ей ал5 saturated microspheres are injected into various hydrophilic or hydrophobic gel-like compositions, which, as said, provide excellent properties against acme, which is mainly due to the penetration of active ingredients into sebaceous sacs. The composition of these ai/8 compositions is clearly aimed at the single case of drugs that provide better delivery of specifically active agents and do not have independent cosmetic benefits. If users wish to have cosmetic benefits in addition to the treatment of acme and other diseases, a cosmetic preparation must be used separately, which may be incompatible with

Te) means of treatment of acme. They do not try to introduce microspheres saturated with an active agent. into a cosmetic base or deal with problems that may arise in doing so. More specifically, ZNaegeg ei ai. not about the problem of delivering hydrophilic agents from a cosmetic composition on a hydrophobic basis to the skin surface, which should have its own useful cosmetic properties, independent or additional to the cosmetic properties due to the delivery of the active agent.

The claimed invention is intended to provide a therapeutic agent.

It solves the problem of how to introduce a dermatologically active hydrophilic agent for the eyes and other sensitive areas of the skin surface into a hydrophobic cosmetic composition. iF) To solve this problem, the invention offers a cosmetic composition in which a dermatologically active hydrophilic agent, which is a component of a liquid hydrophilic medium, is adsorbed or absorbed in or on particles of a suitable carrier. This system of carriers - active agent can be included in an almost anhydrous cosmetic base, for example, a cream suspension. The anhydrous base preferably includes one or more film-forming agents, providing a novel cosmetic composition that can be used to deliver a hydrophilic agent to specific areas of the skin. A preferred embodiment of the invention provides a solution to the problem of creating a useful cosmetic composition containing an effective concentration of a dermatologically active agent and provides a controlled release of a dermatologically active b5 agent on the skin.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be created within a wide range of cosmetic products, for example, pigmented eye pencils, non-pigmented eye pencil bases, lipsticks, moisturizers, lip medicines, foundations, etc. These new cosmetic products, in addition to valuable cosmetic properties, have dermatological activity and provide a long-lasting beneficial effect. So,

For example, eyeliners can be formulated with skin-nourishing agents such as alpha-hydroxy acids to provide both immediate and long-lasting positive effects on the eyelids.

The experiments and tests below show that such cosmetic compositions, which contain microspheres saturated with dermatologically active agents, such as AHA, according to the invention can 7/0 effectively deliver AHA in its active form to the surface of the skin from a substantially anhydrous solvent, in which dispersed film-forming agents or systems. The data presented here show that the AHA included in the composition according to the invention effectively transfers to the skin and provides a valuable effect on it, such as its nourishment, as indicated by a significant increase in skin moisture after four or more days of use.

Unexpectedly, dermatologically active agents were found to be successfully removed from microspherical carriers 7/5 incompatible with the foreign hydrophobic environment of the paste- or gel-like base in which they were formulated for testing. The hydrophobicity of the medium should prevent the release of the hydrophilic active agent from the microspheres. In the absence of any detailed theory, the concept of the invention is that rubbing and massaging, which usually accompany topical application of the product, bring the microspheres containing AHA into contact with the skin, with the wet skin extracting a hydrophilic solution from the microspheres, which

Contains AGK. When the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are used topically, say around the eyes or on the lips, they are constantly mixed as the eyelids blink and the lips are moved or wiped, ensuring a constant circulation of microspheres in contact with the surface of the skin, due to which the hydrophilic solution containing АГК, all the time comes to this surface.

Further, according to the theory, this manifests itself in the fact that the film-forming properties of the hydrophobic base of the skin form a barrier that reduces the loss of moisture from the surface of the skin. This decrease in water loss leads to an increase in the water content of the skin, which facilitates the release of the dermatologically active agent to i) the surface of the skin. In addition, water, or any other solvent suitable for dermatologically active agents, which are introduced for further use in secondary products for which the composition according to the invention is used as a base, can also assist the transfer of the active agent from the carrier to the skin. Microspheres made of organic polymers tend to stick together and not stick to the skin. Strong adhesive properties of microspheres can be provided by their introduction into anhydrous cosmetic compositions that contain suitable film-forming agents, including new film-forming systems according to Ge! an invention When such film systems are used in cosmetic compositions containing microspheres, a good water-free film can be obtained, which is perfectly applied to the skin, does not change and does not lag. ise)

Other useful cosmetic properties can also be obtained on the basis of compositions according to the invention. Clear wrinkles on the skin can be cosmetically disguised or hidden by filling them and absorbing light with microspheres, with simultaneous dermatological restoration of the skin due to its nourishment by the action of AHAs.

Preferably, compositions can also diffuse light, thanks to which dark circles under the eyes are hidden and a good look is ensured. Preferably, the embodiment of the invention can also increase the barrier properties of the surface of the skin, on which they are applied, with respect to water and thus enhance the effect of the dermatologically active hydrophilic agent that passes from the cosmetic preparation and increase the duration of the effect of cosmetic preparations that include the products of the invention . ;" Many of the following properties can be combined in one multifunctional cosmetic preparation, which simultaneously provides both immediate and long-term positive effects on the consumer.

Some embodiments of the invention, as well as one or more ways of its practical application, including the best methods of manufacture considered by the inventor who proposes the invention, will be described in more detail below. Several illustrative but non-limiting examples of the best embodiment will also be provided

Me. .

Ge) The best embodiments of the invention relate to new cosmetic compositions containing an effective amount of a polar dermatologically active agent, a necessary amount of a suitable adsorbing or absorbing agent, and a carrier that holds this agent, as well as one or more film-forming components in a practically anhydrous

Kk solvent or base, selected for the purpose of delivering the dermatologically active agent to the surface of the stratum corneum of the skin.

This composition provides properties that allow the consumer or wearer to enjoy it

Use, helping cosmetically, providing beauty, and at the same time, having one or more beneficial properties for the skin, the effect of which continues even after the removal of cosmetics. (F, The substantially anhydrous base provides a medium or solvent for dispersion of the active agent applied to the particles of the carrier, this medium may be liquid or semi-solid, for example, a dispersant or solvent for other cosmetic ingredients that give the composition the desired cosmetic properties. The anhydrous base may contain contains more or less volatile anhydrous cosmetic solvents, in which the thickening components are arbitrarily dispersed to achieve the desired consistency.

Absorbent media. According to the invention, a wide variety of materials can be suitable for transporting dermatologically active ingredients or agents, for example, alpha-hydroxy acids in their active form, to the skin, protecting the active drug from the influence of other cosmetic ingredients that can deactivate it. Suitable carrier materials include, but are not limited to, microspheres of organic polymers, as well as particles of inorganic origin. Some microspherical powder materials that are commercially available and used in the manufacture of cosmetic materials according to the invention include organic polymers, for example, polyethylene, polypropylene and their copolymers, polyurethane, polyesters, polyamides, polymethyl methacrylate, nylon, ethylene acrylate and polyvinylidene copolymers. In principle, any non-toxic, non-irritating, cosmetically compatible organic polymer materials can be used, which can be applied in a form that provides satisfactory adsorption or absorption properties for the purpose of the present invention, and which are compatible with the anhydrous base.

A few examples of inorganic particles include talc, clays, incl. modified with organic substances, kaolin, mica, calcium salicylate and various carbonates of various metals, for example, calcium and magnesium. 70 Carrier particles cannot be so large that their presence in the composition is noticed by the user as rough particles or sand, it is better when the cosmetics feel smooth. Therefore, at least eighty percent of the particles in size should not exceed 50, and preferably 20 microns. The particles should not be so small that they can get into the sebaceous sacs, which is undesirable, and also provide only a small volume of storage for the applied dermatologically active agent. Within the limits that provide a satisfactory feeling when applying cosmetics, the particles of the carrier must be relatively large to be able to release the active filler from the surface or through holes in the surface from the internal volume of the particles. It is preferred that at least eighty percent of the carrier particles have a diameter of at least 10 microns. More. the best limits for at least eighty percent of the particles are 10 to 20 microns, and the best are 10 to 15 microns. The average size of the particles used is within 12 - 20 microns.

Porous carrier particles are particularly advantageous because the liquid phase can be absorbed inside the particle, occupying, for example, 10 to 90 percent of its volume, which is better than when it is located just on the surface of the particle.

Absorbent powders as carriers for local release of dermatologically active agents or solutions may include microspheres of porous organic polymeric materials, for example, such cosmetically acceptable polyamides as nylon-12 in a proportion of from about 0.1 to 40 percent, preferably from 5.0 up to 20 percent, even better from 6.5 to 10 percent by weight of the cosmetic composition. In addition to the transfer of AHAs or other (8) dermatologically active agents, microspheres made of organic materials provide the desired silky feel of the ready-to-use composition and light scattering properties when applying creams and powders. After the removal of AHA or other dermatologically active agent, microspheres made of organic polymer acquire the properties of absorbing skin fat, helping to fight with breaks in the cosmetic layer due to the breakdown of fat. b»

Dermatologically active agents. Examples of suitable dermatologically active agents that can be delivered to the skin by the compositions of the invention include, but are not limited to, the following: anesthetic drugs, for example, benzyl alcohol, lidocaine and menthol; ise) binding agents, for example, witch hazel (Natateii migdipiapa), aluminum or aluminum-zirconium salts and benzoic acid; exfoliating preparations, for example, resorcinol, salicylic, ascorbic and acetic acids; exfoliating preparations, for example, lactic, glycolic and other alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids; vasoconstrictors, for example, phenylepinephrine hydrochloride; "external pain relievers, for example, tripellenamine hydrochloride and camphor; with c anti-inflammatory, for example, salts of licorice acid, alpha-bisabolol; . derivatives of salicylic acid and ibuprofen; and?" anti-irritants, for example, allantoin, proteins, trimethylglycine, glycine, ascorbic and ferulic acids, sodium lactate; whitening agents, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, kojic acid hydrogen peroxide, and hydroquinone; c lipolytic agents, for example, caffeine, aminophylline and other xanthine bases; pigmentation enhancers, for example, dihydroxyacetone;

Me. Sunscreens, e.g. diethanolamine paramethoxycyanamate, aminobenzoate

Ge) glyceryl, 2-hydroxy--methoxy-benzophenone-5-sulfonic acid, 2-phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.

Moisturizers and emollients, for example, panthenol, lactamidopropyltrimonium chloride (Iasiatiodorgorui and ihitopisht), salts of pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and polyethylene glycol with a molecular weight of 40 to 10,000 sh daltons, propylene glycol/ethylene glycol copolymer, glycerin, polyglyceryl polymers, mono-, di- , tri- and polysaccharides or reduced mono-, di-tri- and polysaccharides and their derivatives, propylene glycol, polypropylene glycol with a molecular weight from 100 to 10,000 daltons, hygroscopic amino acids, peptides and polypeptides or their derivatives, glycosaminoglycans. amides or esters of alpha- or beta-hydroxy acids, ethoxylate derivatives of glycerol, propylene glycol, butanol or pentanol, inositol and choline chloride; (F) nutritional supplements, such as vitamins C, B, folic acid, and mineral supplements, such as calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc, manganese, selenium, and phosphorus compounds.

Equivalents of the above examples and other indications suggest other dermatologically active agents suitable for use in the compositions of the invention. Some such agents are listed in OTO Mopodgaryz 5

RPiviviap OezKKeitegepze, including additional links. Some of these and other agents are disclosed in Patent Application No. 5,292,512, which is also incorporated by reference. The cosmetic carriers specified in the Appendix are not at all similar to those corresponding to the proposed invention. ZPPaiiteg ei aiYi,, offer such small ultramicroscopic carrier particles to ensure subcutaneous intrusion or transfer of particles saturated with active b5 agents directly into the openings of sebaceous sacs or follicular openings of the skin. The particles of the media offered by Zpayeteg ei AI. must be less than 10 microns in diameter in order to be able to reliably and constantly enter the openings of the sebaceous sacs. Since the active materials are adsorbed on, or absorbed into, particles of a carrier that is dispersed in a substantially anhydrous cosmetic base or solvent, it is preferred that the dermatologically active agent or ingredient be polar and have little or no affinity for the components of the substantially anhydrous base.

One or more dermatologically active agents in the range from 0.01 to 1095 by weight of the composition can be introduced into its variant, which is considered the best. Even better, the agent content is between 0.5 and 8.095, and most preferably between 1.0 and 5.095. Other active agents can be used in equivalent proportions depending on their activity, but the indicated proportions are preferred for sensitive areas around the eyes. 70 The best dermatologically active agents are those belonging to the exfoliant class, namely alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids. These substances can be used both for moisturizing and nourishing the skin to give it better structural properties and appearance. These benefits can only be achieved after long-term use of the cosmetic preparation according to the invention, when used correctly, for example daily, for days or days, starting from fourteen or twenty-one days and 7/5 continuing from three to six months, applying once or twice per day, or even continuing to use it indefinitely.

In conclusion, new, practically anhydrous cosmetic compositions for eyes and lips according to this embodiment of the invention contain as dermatologically active hydrophilic agents at least one alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), for example, lactic, citric, malic, mixed fruit acids or a mixture thereof, which 2or is held on the matrix or on the porous particles of the carrier. AHC is better retained on the carrier particles when it is on the surface of the pores of the carrier particles, as well as inside the internal pores communicating with the external pores, due to which the AHC, distributed in a hydrophilic medium, can come to the surface of the carrier particle and transfer from it to moist skin due to capillary interactions.

Some other alpha-hydroxy acids that can be practically used in accordance with the present invention include straight or branched chain aliphatic acids having no more than three substituents in the aliphatic chain, said substituents need not be basic and must be selected from the group consisting of i) hydroxyl, aldehyde, ketone, carboxyl, nitro group and chlorine. Acidity and solubility in water and hydroalcoholic solutions are desirable characteristics of alpha-hydroxy acids used in accordance with the present invention. Some more suitable alpha-hydroxy acids contain at least one hydrophobic group, which is a carbon atom that forms four substantially nonpolar bonds, for example, with carbon or hydrogen atoms. b"

Such hydrophobicity, one might guess, is useful for balancing the negatively charged hydroxyl and He! carboxyl groups in order to increase the biological compatibility and effectiveness of the drug.

Certain other alpha-hydroxy acids are preferably monocarboxylic acids selected from the group consisting of: 2-hydroxy-p-butanoic, 2-hydroxyisobutanoic, 2-hydroxy-p-pentanoic, 2-hydroxyisopentanoic, 2-hydroxy-p-hexane, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid. It is also possible to use their di- or polyhydroxy analogs, for example, 2,X-hydroxy analogs, in which "X" can be from 3 to 6 depending on the selected monohydroxy acid, indicating the number (except for the first and second) of the carbon atom to which the second is attached hydroxyl substituent. It is better to balance the additional electronegative properties of such a dihydroxy acid with a hydrophobic group, as described above. in c While some dermatologically active agents have properties, for example, quite low

And the melting temperature, which allows them to be adsorbed or absorbed on or into the matrix of the carrier and? directly, others are in a crystalline state at room temperature and it is better to dissolve them in a suitable hydrophilic solvent. It is also better that the solvent has no or little affinity for the practically anhydrous base of the drug. It is important that the carrier holds both the solvent and the dermatologically active agent dissolved in it to maintain the desired functioning of the dermatologically active agent.

Me. In addition, the solvent must have a suitable viscosity to further ensure the delayed co-migration from the carrier of the dermatologically active agent. The solvent must also be inert or inactive, or at least not adversely affect the functional properties of the dermatologically active agent. ik Hydrophilic solvents. Some classes of liquid hydrophilic solvents or phase-dispersing media that may be used alone or in combination to help saturate the surface or bulk of the carrier particles with a dermatologically active agent include, but are not limited to, water, alcohols, and ethers.

A suitable class of alcohols for this includes mono-, di-, tri-, or polyhydric alcohols having the formula: ho (on)

F) ko- (sn), - (c), - (sn,), - V! yu (On) (on) in which KUN, CH»z or a saturated, unsaturated, cyclic or branched radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; X - 0 - 1,000,000; F- 0 - 100; 7 - 1 - 10; and K. - Н, СН3, О-СН3, О-СНоО-СН".

Suitable ethers include substituted and unsubstituted ethers, for example solvents from Opiope Sagride such as

SOM (trade mark) fluid, Opiop Sagride Sogr. ог ООМ/АМОГ. (trademark) fluids, Oom/ Spetis! Sotrapi og SAKVITOI (trademark) and SePozoime (trademark).

In general, hydrophilic solvents and their mixtures of the desired viscosity can be used together with dermatologically active agents in a ratio of 99: 1 to 1: 99.

However, the required proportions are chosen taking into account the physical or physicochemical characteristics of the solvent required for the transition of the dermatologically active agent into the liquid phase in the active form with subsequent absorption by the particles of the carrier. In achieving this, a low proportion of solvent may be useful in some circumstances, but a high proportion of solvent is more desirable, for example an agent to solvent ratio of 1 : 1 to 1 : 20 by weight. While such proportions may be effective in in the case of an intercellular active agent, more effective intracellular active agents, for example, hydrophilic or water-soluble hormones such as corticosteroids, which can be used in relatively lower proportions, for example, in an agent to solvent ratio of 1 : 999 to 1 : 20. A more preferred solvent for dermatologically active substances , for example, alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), is glycerol. The viscosity of the solvent allows the AHA to be retained inside or on the surface of the carrier particles, while the hydrophilicity allows skin moisture to pick up the dissolved AHA from the microparticles.

Film-forming agents. According to the invention, it is desirable that the film-forming agents promote adhesion of the saturated particles of the carrier to the skin and help form an impermeable barrier to increase the water content at or near the surface of the skin. Film-forming means those that form an impeccably continuous layer /5 of the product on the surface of the skin. Impermeable means that the barrier located on the surface of the skin significantly blocks the loss of volatile substances from the surface of the skin and leaves them in its upper layers. According to the purpose of the present invention, the barrier film is preferably hydrophobic.

Some classes of cosmetic film-forming agents that may be used alone or in combination include, but are not limited to, metal soaps, waxes, and 2o film-forming emollients. Some non-limiting examples of each of these classes of cosmetic film-forming agents are provided below. Others are well known to those skilled in the art.

Metal soaps are useful materials for providing adhesion and promoting the formation of a hydrophobic film.

Metal gel soaps can be alkaline earth metal or aluminum alkanoates, the chains of which contain from six to twenty carbon atoms, for example, calcium laurates, oleates, or stearates, with magnesium, aluminum, zinc, or lithium, or a mixture thereof. Cosmetic metal soap, for example, zinc laurate, can be used in proportions from 1.0 to 5.0 percent, preferably 3.0 percent by weight of the composition. Metal soaps i) function as ionic thickeners that strengthen adhesion and add hydrophobicity to the formed film.

Waxes are other film-forming agents. Many of them, which can function as film-forming agents in the compositions according to the proposed invention, are well known in cosmetic practice. typical such materials are compounds of the formula K-X, in which K is a saturated, unsaturated, cyclic or branched long-chain radical containing from 8 to 1,000,000 carbon atoms; X - -H, -OK' or -C-OK", where Me)

K - H, saturated, unsaturated, cyclic or branched radical with the number of carbon atoms from 1 to 24; KK" - b

H or the residue of a mono-, di-, tri- or polyhydroxy compound capable of forming mono-, di-, tri- or polyesters. ise)

Preferred waxes have a melting point above 100°F. Materials such as waxy esters of glycerol, ceresine, beeswax, palm and candelilla, and other cosmetically acceptable waxes may be used.

According to the invention, a total wax content of 0 to 10.0 percent is adequate to provide satisfactory cosmetic properties. It is desirable that the total wax content does not exceed 5.0 percent, and even better - 3.0 percent. Suitable waxes are glycerol tribehenate ester, ceresine and microcrystalline waxes, used in a proportion of 0 to 5.0 percent, preferably 0.1 to 1.5 percent. Even better . use from 0.25 to 0.5 per cent of such a wax as glyceryl tribehenate, and in a somewhat higher proportion from i?' 1 to 2 percent - ceresine wax.

The low wax content achievable in cosmetic compositions according to the invention is advantageous in that it provides

Low application effort and increased mobility. Useful functions of wax are adhesive, as well as those that give the product a greasy feeling, film-forming and those that increase viscosity.

Other useful film-forming compounds are emollients. These materials are usually rare

Me, at temperatures between 32"E and 100"P. According to the present invention, useful emollients are those that

Ge) include compounds of the formula SeNop-o-x, where n o - from b to more than one million, and X - no more than n, and 5p Include saturated, unsaturated, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon chains. Examples are: mineral oils, petrolatum, RECMETNU/ (trademark) fluids and polybutylenes. Further, useful film-forming emollients include mono-, di-, tri- and poly-saturated, -unsaturated, branched and cyclic esters and ethers of di-, tri-, polyhydroxy compounds, for example, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin, sorbitol or polyol Examples of such emollients include, but are not limited to, vegetable oils such as soybean, palm, cottonseed, castor, Chinese tallow, sgatbre, regia, Danish rapeseed, rice bran, palm nut, olive, linseed, coconut, safflower, sunflower, peanut and corn oils. Desired saturated and

F) unsaturated vegetable oils contain fatty acid components with the number of carbon atoms from 6 to 24. ka Further emollients suitable for film-forming agents include esters of the formula:

В/-С-оВ,, or trak 60 И o o where КИ and К2 are saturated, unsaturated, branched or cyclic radicals with the number of carbon atoms from 2 to 24, and n is in the range from 0 to 20.

Auxiliary film-forming agents based on silicone. New cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also contain silicone materials, which provide to some extent auxiliary film-forming ability. Suitable silicone materials are mostly insoluble in water and cyclomethicone, polyalkylsiloxanes,

polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polysiloxane resins, amino-functional polysiloxanes and polyethersiloxane polymers. Directions for additional silicone materials can be found in

O.5. 4,788,006; Sh.5. 4,341,799; 4.152.416; 3,964,500; R.208.911; 4.364.837 and T.5. 4,465,619, disclosure of which

ALSO included in the links provided here.

Auxiliary polyalkylene oxide film-forming agents. Another class of suitable auxiliary film-forming agents includes substances formed by the polymerization of alkylene oxide monomers of the formula:

These materials can be homogeneous polymers or copolymers of two or more monomers.

Examples of homogeneous polymers include polypropylene oxide and butylene oxide polymers. Typically, the 72 molecular weights of these materials are between 100 and 10,000 daltons. In addition, these materials can be condensed with mono- or polyhydroxyalcohols, which are exemplified by SOM (trademark) fluids from Opiop Sagride Sogr.

Film-forming agents can be used alone or in combination with other film-forming agents to achieve the desired aesthetic properties of the final product.

The preferred content of film-forming agents is from 1 to 9995, more preferably from 1 to 5095 by weight of the composition.

Suitable non-curing film formers, such as dimethicone, may be used in an amount of from 0.5 to 5.0 percent, preferably from 0.6 to 1.5 percent, more preferably up to 1.0 percent. Desired functions include film formation, skin protection or water barrier formation, lubricating and emollient (silky feel) properties. with

Film-strengthening agents may be used, for example, mica treated with aluminum myristate, at a d) content of 4.0 to 20.0 percent by weight of the composition, preferably 5.0 to 8.0 percent, even better 6.5 percent.

Desirable film-enhancing functions include adhesion to the skin, imparting a silky and soft feel to the composition, and enhancing the hydrophobicity of the film.

Although strong adhesive properties can be given to an anhydrous cosmetic composition by the introduction of wax - film-forming! agents, but the high wax content leads to difficulty in application and the appearance of Ge"! an unwanted feeling of stickiness when using cosmetics, and can also make it difficult to get rid of the cosmetic product. b

To solve this problem, according to the invention, new film-forming systems containing relatively many thickeners based on mineral particles, for example, bentonite clay particles, as well as

A fraction of metal soaps, for example, zinc laurate, but which are used only with a low wax content. i am

When using these systems in cosmetic compositions containing microspheres, it is possible to obtain good water-free films with excellent spreadability and lack of stickiness. These desirable properties appear as a result of a unique combination of good adhesive properties of metal soaps in relation to the skin with lubricating properties due to the presence of spherical microspheres. With 70 In one of the practical embodiments of the invention, carriers saturated with our AHAs are obtained by dissolving AHAs in glycerol and absorbing the formed AHAs solution with porous microspheres or very small polymer particles. This z" system is intended for use in a hydrophobic environment, in which AHA is stored in the pores of the microspheres.

When applied to the skin, as the cosmetics are rubbed into the skin or massaged, the microspheres move relative to the surface of the skin, come into contact with moisture, which takes away the hydrophilic AHA-glycerin solution from the microscopic polymer particles. After losing the AHA-glycerin solution, the microspheres acquire the ability to absorb fat, preventing it from breaking through the layer of cosmetics.

AGC is desirable for saturating carrier particles, for example, porous nylon particles in a liquid medium, which should have a suitable viscosity to be retained in the pores of the particles during the composition process. Lactic (se) 20 acid melts at 16.8"7C and can be absorbed in the pores of the carrier particles without any auxiliary substances at temperatures above the melting point by mixing in suitable proportions, for example, about 1: 1 by mass, until lactic the acid will be absorbed.Other acids, such as mixed fruit acids, can similarly be applied to the carrier particles by mixing, i.e., addition of additives using their very fine powders consisting of particles small enough to fit into the pores of the carrier.

The benefit of nourishing the skin with AGC is manifested in the best structural and visual qualities of it, which can

GF) begin to appear only after long-term use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention with regular, for example, daily application for a period of one week to, for example, four or six weeks, or more.

In conclusion, the new practically anhydrous cosmetic compositions for eyes and lips according to the embodiment of the invention 60 contain as dermatologically active agents at least one AHA, for example, lactic or mixed fruit acids, held on the matrix or in the porous particles of the carrier in the form of a powder of a synthetic organic polymer , for example, nylon. It is desirable that the AHA is located in the surface pores of the noria particles, as well as in the internal pores communicating with these surface pores, so that the AHA can move to the surface of the particle and from there to the moist skin. because the invention also provides a film-forming base for cream-powder with a small wax content or without it,

for the above-mentioned saturated AHA systems. These low wax systems allow for a unique combination of a relatively high content of a thickener such as bentonite and a high content of soap metal in a preferably volatile solvent system such as cyclomethicone such as dimethicone or a non-polar solvent such as a volatile hydrocarbon.

Unexpectedly, due to the inclusion in the composition of microspheres saturated with AHAs, a base with good film-forming ability, which is easy to apply and has low stickiness, acquires the above-described property of rolling sliding ("goyipo zviirz"zu. Metal soaps do not provide stickiness or adhesion by themselves, and these adhesive properties are necessary for applying a cosmetic base to the skin, and in the case of a primary composition, they / o provide a suitable cosmetic base for the last layer, for example, an eye pencil.

The desired result, which is achieved thanks to such new cosmetic products, is a feeling of silkiness when applying powder. The advantage of the adhesive, in the absence of stickiness properties of the new eye improvers according to the invention is an unexpectedly long stability, which has been proven by comparative tests. While traditional eye make-up may need to be reapplied after 7/5 several hours and usually fades noticeably after about six hours, the make-up obtained according to the invention can remain satisfactory for more than 12 hours without adverse effects.

Cream-powders according to the invention are quick-drying. The solvent evaporates in seconds, providing a silky-to-the-touch tar powder. The inclusion of light-scattering agents ensures the scattering of light in shadows inside wrinkles or other skin defects and helps to obtain a product with a "soft-focus" look. Such eye improvers according to the invention provide a synergism between the film-forming system and the microspheres containing AHA and provide an improvement in appearance when applied, which gives the skin the illusion of an improvement in its quality, while the alpha-hydroxy acids, coming into contact with the skin, actively it is affected and nourished, so that after regular use for at least four weeks, the appearance of the skin improves even when there is no cosmetics on it. high school

Placing AHA in the pores of microspherical particles, using glycerol as a solvent for AHA effectively isolates hydrophilic ingredients from hydrophobic ones without creating a separate aqueous phase for dispersion. Another i) benefit of using microspheres is the reduction of diffusion into sensitive tissues near the eyes due to the binding effect of microspheres.

The preferred hydrophobic medium for the microsphere particles containing the active agent is a silicone gel, which is best obtained using a volatile silicone solvent such as dimethicone. A preferred thickener is bentonite powder. b"

As stated above, according to the invention, it is desirable to use cosmetic film-forming systems with a low wax content, including in percent by weight of the composition from 5.0 to 13.0 percent of particles of a mineral thickener, for example, bentonite, and at least 1.0 percent of a thickener, which is metal soap, and ise) zv Not more than 5.0 percent of cosmetic wax dispersed, if available, in a volatile cosmetic solvent, preferably cyclomethicone in an amount from 30.0 to 70.0 percent.

A volatile solvent, for example, cyclomethicone, preferably in the form of a pentamer, can be used as a hydrophobic solvent for, for example, a cream-powder composition. Suitable proportions are from 20.0 to 70.0 percent by weight of the composition, preferably from 30 to 40 percent, and even better - 33.0 percent. Functions as a “Wetting agent while quickly evaporating after application. Some alternative or additional volatile silicone solvents are described below. . A thickener suitable for a volatile solvent, for example, diaegpicht-18 bentonite at a content of 1.0 to 1? 15.0 percent, preferably 3.0 to 10.0 percent, more preferably 5.0 to 6.0 percent, physically stabilizes the compositions and functions as a pigment suspension, grease absorption, and gloss reduction medium.

Surfactants. Surface-active agents, for example, sorbitan isostearate, can be used in an amount from 1.0 to 10.0 percent by weight of the composition, preferably from 3.5 to 4.5 percent, even more preferably 4.0 percent. Desirable surface agents allow to increase the capacity of solid materials and

Me, give the film hydrophobic properties.

Ge) Polymeric microspheres for addition to the composition. Synthetic polymer microspheres, which are added to 5g powder carriers of AHA, for example, polymethyl methacrylate, can be used at a content of from 8.0 to 20.0 percent by weight of the composition, preferably from 10.0 to 15.0 percent, even more preferably - about 12 percent Such as additional polymer microspheres serve to improve the sensations from the cosmetic preparation, providing a "ballooning" sensation during application and a feeling of dry velvet after application and evaporation of the solvent. Additional features include light diffusion and giving the product a powdery feel.

Fatty esters. Fatty low-volatile ester solvents such as isononyl isononanoate are used to control the volatility and molecular weight of the solvent in a proportion of 1.0 to 10.0 percent, preferably from

F) 4.0 to 6.0 percent, even more preferably - about 5.0 percent by weight of the solvent. Acceptable solvents also function as lipophilic emollients, aid in solubilization of ingredients, and are miscible with a volatile base solvent such as dimethicone. in Vlozhnyuvacchi. One or more fat-soluble humectants, such as lauryl DEW, in a proportion of 0.4 to 2.5 percent, preferably about 0.5 percent, or cetyldimethicone in a proportion of 1.0 to 5.0 percent by weight of the composition may be used to strengthening hydration. Cetyldimethicone provides a feeling of dryness and tenderness, and also contributes to the formation of a film.

Fat absorbents. Kaolin or other fat absorbents can be used in a proportion of 0.50 to 3.0 65 percent by weight of the composition, preferably 0.7 to 1.5 percent, even more preferably 1.00 percent. Desirable functions of fat absorbents are absorption of excess sebum, adhesion to skin, light scattering and opacity.

Darkeners. Darkening agents, such as titanium dioxide, can be used in a proportion of 0.10 to 5.0 percent by weight of the composition, preferably 0.3 to 1.0 percent, even more preferably 0.50 percent, which provides coverage and helps mask defects .

Plasticizers. The volatile solvent for the polar activator of the thickener, for example, hexylene glycol, can be used in a proportion of 0.75 to 1.75 percent by weight of the composition, preferably about 0.85 percent.

It must serve as a binding plasticizing agent, solvent and softener, and at the same time provide resistance to moisture and oxidation.

Preservatives. Preservatives such as, for example, methyl or propylparaben can be used in a ratio of, for example, 0.1 to 0.395, as known to those skilled in the art.

Optional ingredients. As experts know, other ingredients can be used, including pigments and fragrances. Some other optional ingredients include: Vitamin E Linoleate at about 0.1095 as an additional moisturizer, Vitamin E Acetate at about 0.1095, which functions as a free radical scavenger and antioxidant, Retinyl Palmitate at about 0.196, which functions as a derivative of retinoic acid to reduce fine lines; ceramides, with a content of less than 0.395, which strengthen the skin; sphingolipids, which serve to strengthen the skin, in an amount less than 0.395, and also strengthen the barrier properties of the skin, thanks to which its moisture increases and the penetration of irritating substances decreases.

Alternative volatile silicone solvents. The class of cyclomethicone compounds suitable for use in cosmetic compositions according to the invention is exemplified by compounds of the formula -(K 1K»ziO)rd, in which Ku and K» are lower alkyl containing from one to four carbon atoms with or without deleterious substituents , selected from the group containing halogen atoms, hydroxyl, carboxyl and methoxyl groups, and n - C - 6; while these compounds are cyclic. The above volatile cyclomethicone solvents can be used alone or in a mixture, in addition, each compound can be a homopolymer in which all the monomer units are the same, or a heteropolymer in which they are different. Some of the preferred cyclomethicones are the dimethicones, especially polymers in which the C's are 0400-0055 and the CC's and Co's are both omethyl, i.e., octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and odecamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

Depending on the nature of the final product of the composition, for example, eye enhancer, eye pencil base, lipstick, blush, make-up, etc., other optical ingredients known to those skilled in the art may be used, and in amounts known to them. Such ingredients include, but are not limited to, fragrances, dyes, pigments, surfactants, preservatives, grease absorbers, darkeners and antioxidants.

The following examples illustrate the practical application according to the invention in more detail. The Me) content of the ingredients used in the examples is set forth below in the various tables identified in the examples. Gee!

Table 1 lists the ingredients used in examples 1 and 2. (Se) with yu

And (maybe 111120

Example 1: In example 1, porous microspheres made of nylon-12 are saturated with a solution of lactic acid in glycerol. Glycerin is mixed in a mixer with the same amount of lactic acid with formation of phase A, using the proportions given in Table II. Nylon-12 powder is added to phase A at a ratio of two parts of phase A to three parts of nylon-12. The glycerol-lactic acid phase is almost completely absorbed by microspheres of nylon-12, at why their density increases, with the formation of a loose powder.This composition is stirred during (22) one time until the formation of a physically stable, slightly sticky powdery mixture of lactic acid, which is further used in example 9.

Example 2 se) 50 Example 1 is repeated, replacing lactic acid with mixed fruit acids in the proportions indicated in Table 1. A physically stable, slightly sticky powder is obtained, which is further used in Example 10. 5925. yu ven 00000001 900 (in |titanium dioxide/ | in 60 Example C

Dry mixture for drawing eyes

The dry mix for use in eye liner compositions was prepared as a single phase using the ingredients listed in Table II. Zinc laurate powder is combined with aluminum myristate applied to mica, kaolin and titanium dioxide and mixed to obtain a smooth, homogeneous powder, because the ingredients used in examples 4 - 5 are listed in Table II.

s (in fructose 005000 (s lactic acid | 2000

Example 4

A solvent-free mixture of nylon-12 and lactic acid carrier. In this example, porous 70 nylon-12 microspheres are saturated with lactic acid without the use of a solvent. The phase A ingredient is slowly added to the phase B ingredient while stirring in a mixer at room temperature. The preparation with a nylon-12/lactic acid ratio of 4:1 in the mixture was used in example 7.

Example 5

A solvent-free blend of nylon-12 carrier with mixed fruit acids.

The process is carried out as in example 4 with the replacement of lactic acid with mixed fruit acids and a reduction in the ratio of nylon-12/mixed fruit acids to 1:1. This preparation is used in example 6.

The table below shows the ingredients used in examples 6 - 8.

SA ribeenatshu 00010007

A Niznyuollavkiytserayain 11101007

A Mkrokrystalchnyvs 10010007 - zo i

A jumemono 00000011 in F in leuvatsian 300300 300

In | Mica 0152 1200 001200

S. Odeyeidtuu 00000000 is 00000000 in B Barlamolocular CTO I 11000105 «O (the most luminariter 0000500 2 in the MVHVU (RMMA) polymethyluetuyutit BA 1200 1200.

SE (Vetynillalmtyat 1000000002o0 blo

Svozhovtmyfvoma 00000003 s In red vom 00000000

Ф St. black 11111101 00051 (se) Example 6 c 50 Mixture of nylon-12 with mixed fruit acids, which does not contain a solvent, in an anhydrous basis

Example b includes a composition made, as in example 5, on an anhydrous basis, the content of components -. and are listed in Table I. Phase B ingredients are dispersed by stirring at high speed for at least three minutes. After that, phase B is added to phase C and mixed at low speed for one minute. Phase A ingredients are mixed and heated to 65 degrees Celsius until clear. After transparency is achieved, a mixture of phases B and C is added to phase A and mixed with the help of a propeller mixer until a homogeneous state is achieved and there are no lumps. After that, the ingredients of phase 0 are added to this homogeneous mixture and again mixed to a homogeneous state. Example 7

Mixture of a carrier of nylon-12 and solvent-free lactic acid in anhydrous medium 6o0 Example 6 is repeated with the addition of nylon-12 to phase B to further improve the feel of the composition with the substitution of a mixture of nylon-12 and solvent-free lactic acid , as done in example 4, to a mixture of nylon-12 with mixed fruit acids, not containing a solvent, as done in example 5. Replacing the acid mixture gives a composition with an increased content of alpha-hydroxy acids.

Example 8 bB Mixture of nylon-12 with mixed fruit acids, containing no solvent, in an anhydrous medium acting as a color base

Example 8 uses the procedure described in example b, with the introduction of phase E containing additives and dyes. This final phase includes a mixture that has been heated to 45 degrees Celsius, to which the ingredients of phase E have been added, followed by mixing until uniform. Cetyldimethicone and dimethicone are actually replaced by cyclomethicone. Due to the lower volatility of cetyldimethicone, the product is obtained as a cream composition, while when using the more volatile cyclomethicone, a composition is obtained that is rubbed into a cream-powder base. You can use different color agents by introducing them into the composition of phase B. Table M indicates the ingredients used in examples 9 10.

In (cim 11111100 700 la (nan? 00000000 50 sc o Powder mixture of mixed frusovikkielot 0000500 o (o (Powder mixture of milk cheese OB

Sr Mvkhvs MMA polmethylyatilate 01200 1200 - from F

F

Thixogel SUM (Hexylene glycol/Oa(egisht-18th-o

Bentonite/cyclomethicone

Example 9

Eye enhancer with lactic acid

To the mixture of the compositions from example 9, obtained as described in examples 1 and 5, added the ingredients described in " table IP. The procedure for making the product of Example 9 is the same as Example 8. Example 9 70 uses a hydrophobic sphingolipid complex to promote skin firming. - c Example 10 a Improver of the appearance of the eyes with mixed fruit acids "» Example 9 repeats example 2. but with the replacement of the powder mixture of lactic acid given in example 1 with a powder mixture of mixed fruit acids.

The products of Examples 9 and 10 were tested to determine their dermatological and cosmetic 1 properties. Some of these results are listed below.

Physiological benefit. Control biophysical determination of the consequences of using cosmetic compositions for

F eye c, examples 9 (lactic acid) and 10 (mixed fruit acids) demonstrated a beneficial improvement in se) structural dermatological properties. Some control tests showed a significant increase in the moisture content of the canthus (outer corner of the eyes) and the skin under the eyes, which was also accompanied by an increase in its density and restoration of fine lines and other imperfections. - and 20 women for each product from examples 9 and 10 tested them, applying them to half of the face. Each of these products was applied individually around one eye, and around the other eye, an eye moisturizing cream-concentrate was applied prior to the product. Facial treatment was performed twice a day, except in the morning of the day when the measurements were taken. The hydration, skin density, and structural characteristics of the canthus that were determined are listed below. o Moisturization of the skin. Impedance measurements of the canthus and cheeks under the eyes with a skin meter of another phase showed an average increase in moisture content, which is shown below in the MI and MII tables, respectively, where the data are compared with control measurements taken before the use of the drug (not shown): 60 (weeks) acid without additives acid moisturizer without acid additives iz- moisturizer in vv01000881111118 8 4 20.1 24.9 16.2 212 now only

Thus, after six weeks of use, the moisture gain was at least 20905 for all formulations, the lactic acid formulation of Example 9 was more effective than the mixed fruit acid formulation of Example 10, and the eye cream provided an additional beneficial effect after four or more weeks of use. Similar, though slightly lower, results were obtained for the cheeks under the eyes, as shown in the MY table below. days (weeks) with acid without additives | moisturizer with fruit acids

Skin density. Cantus skin density was determined using a ballestometer as an indicative time and compared with similar data (not shown) obtained before using the drug. The results are shown below in the MI table: (weeks) with acid without additives |moisturizer with acids without additives moisturizer Га го о вх 111111111ме 1111

These results indicate a significant 19 percent increase in skin density obtained with the lactic acid formulation of Example 9 after only four weeks of use. The mixed fruit acid formulation of Example 10 was slightly less effective, but still produced (22) a significant increase in skin density. The best results were obtained after six weeks of use and with the use of moisturizers.

Measurement of skin structure. With the use of a computer image analyzer, measurements were made of the re)prints of the canthus, which showed a decrease in clear wrinkles and other defects compared to their number before using the drug. The measurement results are presented below in Table IX:

Time of use | Recipe with lactic acid Lactic acid "| Recipe with mixed fruit Mixed fruit acids same 2 (weeks) that without additives moisturizer with acids without additives moisturizer with with" vva 1111111yuv1111111

Their results shown in Table 1 show a significant 16 percent improvement in skin density when using the formula from Example 9 with lactic acid after just four weeks. The recipe from example 10 with mixed fruit acids is slightly less effective, but leads to a significant improvement

Ge" skin density. The best results were obtained after six weeks of use and with the use of a moisturizer. Other control tests showed that the compositions according to the invention can be used as bases for

Ge) 20 eyeliners to reduce creasing and color loss, as well as waterproofing.

Wrinkling of the layer from eye pencils. Wrinkling or flaking of the eyeliner layer is a well-known phenomenon that often occurs in people with oily skin and manifests itself as uneven color or the displacement of the applied layer into folds and deep wrinkles, which can occur within a few hours after use eye pencil 99 A study of twelve groups of adult women in military service, each with an experience

GF) eye pencil layer wrinkling, showed that the use of an eye cosmetic composition according to the invention as a base was effective in experiments to study the eye pencil layer wrinkling applied on top of the base.

The invented eyeliner base formulation was applied to only one eyelid in each group, then allowed to dry for one minute, after which both eyelids were treated with a pink eyeliner. Immediately after pencil treatment, the eyelids were videotaped and a picture of the center of each eyelid was retained for image analysis. This procedure was repeated three and six hours after the first application. Image analysis showed that primed lids had a slight increase in the unevenness of the eyeliner layer even six hours after application. In contrast, the unevenness of the layer from the eyeliner, which was applied to the eyelids without a base, increased significantly both three and six hours after application.

Eye pencil color. Other tests showed that the eyeliner base composition of Example 9 was effective in determining the color loss of the eyeliner layer. As shown by measurements on a colorimeter, no formulation changed the color of the applied pencil layer.

Due to the difficulties of reliably determining the color of the eyelids, the forehead, which is physiologically similar to the eyelids in terms of the presence of a skin fold and other properties, was chosen as the area for color control. Foundation and eyeliner were applied to one side of the forehead of each of the twelve study subjects. A pencil without a base was applied to the other side of the forehead. Color measurements were taken immediately after each application and repeated three and six hours later. 70 No loss of color was observed even after six hours when the skin was treated with a base, which contrasted with untreated skin, where the loss of color was statistically significant.

It is important that the color of the eye pencil layer does not change if it has been applied to the base composition according to the invention.

Color loss of pencil layers applied with the base composition of the invention was apparently negligible after six hours and actually less than the primed side after three hours.

Water resistance. Further tests of twelve research objects demonstrated water resistance.

The eyeliner and base formulation were applied to the forearm as described above for comparison. Immediately after the colorimetric measurements, the hand was wetted, dried in the air, after which the measurement was carried out again. The obtained data indicate that the loss of blue color from the surface not treated with the base was 20 significant, while no color changes were observed from the treated side. Determination of color loss indicates that significant water resistance is due to the use of the base.

Barrier properties and introduction of acids into the skin. Measurements of water loss through the epidermis showed that the products from examples 9 and 10 can significantly reduce water loss, that is, provide an increase in the barrier functions of the skin. This increased barrier function can increase the penetration of active ingredients into the stratum corneum under this barrier, for example, alpha-hydroxy acids contained in porous microspheres. This postulates that the microspheres saturated with alpha-hydroxy acids according to the invention can participate in the improvement of the barrier i) function with the simultaneous transfer of acids to the skin, when the acid comes out of the microspheres due to the affinity of the glycerin solvent to skin moisture.

Further determinations have shown that the products can provide refinement for a short period of time - more than six hours and do not show a direct physical effect on contact lenses made of polymacon or surfylcon A. Me

This invention is particularly suitable for use in modern industrial processes. In particular, it would be useful in the cosmetic industry, where it can provide new products that offer new benefits to the user, as described herein. ise)

As illustrative embodiments of the invention have been described above, it is of course clear that various modifications should be apparent to those of ordinary skill in the art.

Claims (34)

The formula of the invention «| | | 1. Practically anhydrous cosmetic composition for local application, which contains: a) an effective amount of at least one dermatologically active polar component, b) a sufficient number of adsorbing or absorbing particles of the carrier to hold the indicated dermatologically active polar agent, and at least 8095 of the indicated carrier in the form of particles Having a size greater than 10 μm, c) a hydrophobic cosmetic base, which, being practically anhydrous, has a sufficient amount of film-forming component to form the desired cosmetic film when said cosmetic composition is applied to the skin, and in which the carrier, saturated active component dispersed in a cosmetic base. 2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, which differs in that it contains in mass fractions: a) 0.01-1095 of a dermatologically active polar component, b) 0.1-40.095 of a dispersed carrier, in which at least 8095 particles have the size is more than 10 μm and c) 1.0-99.095 of the film-forming component, due to which the local application of the cosmetic composition to the skin causes the controlled transfer of the active component to the surface of the stratum corneum of the skin. 3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, which is characterized by the fact that it contains a liquid solvent of the active polar component, which is practically not able to mix with the hydrophobic base in a mass ratio to (F; the active component from about 1:99 to 99:1), and the carrier contains dissolved polar component GI 4. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, which is characterized by the fact that the dermatologically active component contains one or more substances selected from the group consisting of skin-exfoliating acids, water-soluble vitamins, astringents, external pain relievers, wart removal agents , anesthetics, keratolytics, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-dandruff agents, bleaching agents, chemical sun protection agents, moisturizers, deodorants, color enhancers, intercellular active components and hormones. 5. Cosmetic composition according to item C, which is characterized by the fact that the dermatologically active component is 65 skin-nourishing alpha-hydroxy acid or beta-hydroxy acid. b. Cosmetic composition according to item C, which differs in that the dermatologically active component is lactic acid. 7. Cosmetic composition according to claim 5, which is characterized by the fact that it contains a dermatologically active component, the mass fraction of which is 0.1-4.095. 8. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, which is characterized by the fact that the adsorbing or absorbing carrier is selected from the group consisting of synthetic organic polymer microspheres, silicon dioxide, starch, polystyrene, spherical cellulose acetate, polyethylene, styrene, polytetrafluoroethylene, polymethyl methacrylate, acrylate polymers , talc, kaolin, mica, calcium silicate, nylon, magnesium carbonate and other salts, boron nitride, polyvinylidene copolymers, silicone resins, polyurethanes, clays 7/0 "Rebellious or modified with organic substances. 9. Cosmetic composition according to claim 8, which is characterized by the fact that the absorbent carrier is porous. 10. The cosmetic composition according to item C, which differs in that the absorbent carrier is nylon-12, the mass fraction of which is 5.0-20.0905. 11. Cosmetic composition according to claim 3, which is characterized in that the solvent is selected from the group consisting of 7/5 glycerin, water-soluble cosmetically compatible glycol, water, alcohol, sodium citrate, oleyl ether of polypropylene glycol-650, polyglycol ethers of glycerin having degree of ethoxylation 4 or 5, lactates, ethoxydiglycol, nonoxynol 10, 12, 14, 40, 50; octoxynol 11, 40; dilaurate polyethylene glycol-4, polyglycol ethers of glycerol, having a degree of ethoxylation of 7 or 26; methylated cyclodextrin, polyethylene glycol-40, polysorbate 20, as well as dimethyldodecylamine oxide. 12. Cosmetic composition according to claim 3, which differs in that the solvent is glycerin. 13. Cosmetic composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the carrier is porous and the solvent has a viscosity of about 5 to about 100,000 cPs for controlled release of the active component from the pores of the carrier. 14. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, which is characterized by the fact that the film-forming component is selected from the group consisting of solid, liquid or semi-solid saturated, unsaturated or branched fatty esters, amides, alcohols, soap, wax and their powders and mixtures. 15. Cosmetic composition according to claim 14, which is characterized by the fact that the film-forming component is selected from i) group, which consists of glycerol tribehenate, ceresin, microcrystalline wax, volatile silicone, dimethicone, sorbitan isostearate, isononyl isononate, cetyldimethicone, as well as zinc laurate. 16. Dermatologically active, hydrophobic, cosmetic composition for areas of the skin around the eyes, which has dermatological properties and contains: a) dermatologically acceptable and harmless porous dispersed carriers, the average particle size of which Me exceeds 10 microns, Ge! b) a dermatologically active hydrophilic component, which is introduced into the pores of the dispersed carrier, c) a hydrophobic film-forming uncured system for the formation of an opaque film containing ise) 335 particles of the carrier are saturated with the active component and cover the skin when the cosmetic composition is applied to the skin (MU and d) film-forming adhesive for maintaining an opaque film on the skin. 17. Cosmetic composition according to claim 16, which differs in that the dermatologically active component is a skin-nourishing alpha-hydroxy acid. " 18. Cosmetic composition according to claim 17, which is characterized by the fact that the alpha-hydroxy acid is selected from the group consisting of lactic, glycolic, citric, malic acid, their equivalents and mixtures of the above . ingredients, and is present in the composition in mass fractions from 0.5 to 8.095. and?" 19. Cosmetic composition according to claim 16, which is characterized by the fact that the carrier in the form of particles is porous synthetic organic polymer microspheres with a particle size greater than 10-100 microns. 20. The cosmetic composition according to claim 16, which is characterized by the fact that to significantly increase the cosmetic properties, it contains opaque colored pigments, the mass fraction of which is from 0.10 to 3.095. 21. Cosmetic composition according to claim 16, characterized in that the hydrophobic film-forming system Me. contains: He) a) hydrophobic phase solvent in which the active component of the carrier is dispersed and saturated; b) dispersed mineral thickener; and, c) thickener based on metallic soap; as well as ke d) wax cosmetic material. 22. Cosmetic composition according to claim 21, which differs in that the carrier of the hydrophobic phase is a volatile polysiloxane, the dispersed mineral thickener is a bentonite thickener, the mass fraction of which is from 5.0 dv to 13.0705, the thickener based on metallic soap is an alkanoate (from six to twenty carbon atoms in the chain) alkaline earth metal or aluminum, the mass fraction of which is from 1.0 to 5.095, and also waxy (F, a cosmetic material selected from the group consisting of waxy glycerol esters, ceresine waxes and microcrystalline waxes , their equivalents and mixtures of the above cosmetic waxes. 23. An eye pencil containing the cosmetic composition according to claim 16 and having skin moisturizing properties. in 24. A cosmetic composition for local use, which contains: a) an effective amount of a dermatologically active hydrophilic component, b) a porous dispersed carrier of an active hydrophilic component with an average particle size of 10 to 50 μm and with an active component in its pores, c) a hydrophobic phase carrier , and the medium saturated with the active component is dispersed in the specified 65 medium; as well as d) a viscous hydrophilic solvent of the active component, which practically does not mix with the hydrophobic carrier and in which the active component is dissolved with the production of a viscous solution, which is retained in the pores of the porous carrier, due to which, during local application of the cosmetic composition, in the viscous solution comes into contact with the skin and leaves this carrier thanks to the moisture of the skin and transfers the active component to the stratum corneum of the skin. 25. A cosmetic composition for local use according to claim 24, characterized in that the dermatologically active hydrophilic component is an alpha-hydroxy acid selected from the group consisting of a mixture of fruit acids, lactic, glycolic, citric, malic acids, and the mass fraction of which is from 0.5 to 8.090. 26. The cosmetic composition for local application according to claim 24, which is characterized by the fact that the porous 70 dispersed carrier of the active hydrophilic component is a synthetic organic polymer microsphere, the mass fraction of which is from 5.0 to 20.095. 27. Cosmetic composition for local use according to claim 24, which is characterized in that the hydrophobic carrier is a volatile polysiloxane. 28. Cosmetic composition for local use according to claim 24, which is characterized by the fact that the viscous solvent 7/5 is glycerin. 29. A cosmetic film-forming system with a low wax content, suitable for use in cosmetic compositions for areas of the skin around the eyes, which contains in mass fractions from the mass of the composition: a) at least 5.095 of a mineral dispersed thickener of a volatile cosmetic solvent, b) at least 1.095 of a thickener based on a metal soap, and c) from 0 to 5.095 cosmetic wax materials dispersed in a volatile cosmetic solvent. 30. The film-forming system according to claim 29, which is characterized by the fact that it contains from 8.0 to 2095 synthetic organic polymer microspheres. 31. The film-forming system according to claim 21, in which: a) mineral dispersion thickener contains bentonite thickener, the mass fraction of which is from 5.0 to 13.090; b) a thickener based on metallic soap is an alkanoate (with the number of carbon atoms in the chain from six to i) twenty) of an alkaline earth metal, the mass fraction of which is from 1.0 to 5.090; c) a waxy cosmetic material selected from the group consisting of waxy glycerol esters, ceresine waxes and microcrystalline waxes, their equivalents and mixtures of the above-mentioned cosmetic wax ingredients; and the volatile cosmetic solvent is cyclomethicone, the mass fraction of which is from 30.0 to 70.095. me) 32. The film-forming system according to claim 31, which is characterized by the fact that it contains from 8.0 to 20.095 synthetic b organic polymer microspheres. 33. A cosmetic composition, the majority of which is a film-forming system with a low content of wax) and which contains: a) a solvent of the hydrophobic phase, in which a carrier saturated with the active component is dispersed, and the said solvent of the hydrophobic phase contains cyclomethicone in a mass fraction of 30.0 -70.0965, b) a mineral thickener in the form of particles, which contains a bentonite thickener with a mass fraction from 5.0 to 13.09, « c) a thickener based on metallic soap, which contains an alkanoate (with the number of carbon atoms in the chain from six pt") c to twenty) alkaline earth metal with a mass fraction from 1.0 to 5.095, d) a cosmetic wax material selected from the group consisting of wax-like glycerine;" esters, ceresin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, their equivalents and mixtures of the above cosmetic wax ingredients, and e) about 8.0-20.09o of synthetic organic polymer microspheres, c and having the form of a cream or powder. 34. The method of manufacturing a cosmetic composition for local use according to claim 1, which consists in: Me. a) mixing the dermatologically active component or its solution with an absorbent dispersed carrier until the active component is completely absorbed by the indicated carrier, as well as b) adding the complex of the indicated carrier and the dermatologically active component to the hydrophobic and cosmetic base. - Official bulletin "Industrial Property". Book 1 "Inventions, useful models, topographies of integrated microcircuits", 2003, M 6, 15.06.2003. State Department of Intellectual Property of the Ministry of Education and Science of Ukraine. F) name) 60 b5