565636 A7 ___ B7 五、發明説明（1 ) 本發明係關於製造適合服裝織物最終用途之混合聚醯胺 紗之方法，及關於藉以可獲得之混合紗，織物和衣服。 需要提供特別適合服裝最終用途之織物材料，其包括一 種以上的聚合物單絲。更特定言之，如果織物含有^有不 同染料親和力之許多不同單絲，則引人注目之目視效果可 實現在染色之織物上。 熟知：使用一種以上之紗織造織物而提供此案混合之織 物材料。亦熟知提供雙組分單絲之紗，舉巧而言，具有第 一種聚合物之外皮及第二種聚合物的芯子之單絲。最後， 熟知：經由在變形工藝機器上摻和來自不同材料所纺之多 纖維紗而提供混合之單絲紗。然而，此方法並不完全令人 滿意且受限為製造捲曲變形之混合紗。 因此’可能需要發展適合服裝應用之新穎混合織物紗， 特別是聚醯胺紗而且可將它快速且廉價製造。 將極大多數的尼龍（聚醯胺）織物使用對於紗的胺端基具 有特別親和力之所謂陰離子染料來染色。一般，陰離子可 染色之聚酿胺含有每1 0 6克的聚合物至少約3 〇，更一般約 40至60且至多約80胺端基當量（AEG)。此等染料包括酸 性染料、金屬絡合染料，反應性染料等。 亦熟知：可致使通常經由陰離子染料予以強力染色之尼 龍紗經由改質聚合物化學性質而耐此等染料。經使用於將 聚酿胺改質之化學劑包括二官能羧酸，特別是磺酸化之有 機一官能酸及其醋。舉例而言，參閱授予杜邦公司之美國 專利案4,075,378號。將此等紗稱為陽離子染料可染色之紗 -4- 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準(CNS) A4規格(210 X 297公釐） 565636 A7 B7_ 五、發明説明（2 ) 或便利稱為cat-染色紗而有時稱為驗染色紗。此等紗通常 含有每1〇6克之聚合物少於約40而更一般15胺端基當量。 一般，陽離子染料可染色之聚醯胺含有每106克之聚合物 至少約5 0且較佳約7 0至1 5 0芳族磺酸鹽基團當量。熟知 將陽離子染色紗使用於製造地毯’於此情況，可能將彼等 與標準陰離子可染色之紗聯合而產生兩色混色效應或爽色 效應。 使用陽離子可染色之紗於服裝最終用途極為稀少，唯不 是不知道。因此，若干年來，有各種商業上Cat-染色紗， 例如授予帝國化學工業公司P L C之美國專利案3 682 866。 和授予BASF公司之美國專利案3,707,344。此等紗的共同 特徵即：彼等係通過習用之兩階段途徑經由相當慢速率纺 絲所造成。熟知：將陽離子染料可染色之尼龍聚合物纺絲 沒有將標準陰離子染料可染色之尼龍紡絲那樣好，且具有 較南之間斷速率’甚至在製造地毯紗時，使用於服裝織物 之分特紗愈輕，單絲愈細，而與高速纺絲相關.聯之極大應 炎速率直至目如排除使用c a t染色聚合物供服裝最終用途 用。這依然是該種情況，即使此等紗（特別當連同常規染 色尼龍而使用時）顯然是極需要，且以織物形式提供很多 種類之效應。一種特別需要之產物是eat染色尼龍部份取 向紗（POY)可將它連同標準染色紗使用於合成纖維變形工 藝而在染色後產生合成纖維變形之雙色調混合或夾色紗。 該技藝中需要一種更有效率及較高速率之設備來將使用 陽離子染料可染色之織物紗紡絲。將較高速率紡絲設備及 -5- 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準(CNS) A4規格（210X297公f 565636 五、發明説明（3 ) 此等高速方法的產物揭示於此處。藉本發明，可能以適合 商業上溶體纺絲程序之優良間斷（單絲斷裂）速率將ρ〇γ 和具有高陽離子染料親和力之高速全拉伸聚酿胺紗Ο 兩者纺絲。而且’本文中所揭示之單絲纺絲設備能將細單 絲纖度的臨界紗纺絲，特別是具有非圓形外形截面的單絲 之那些紗。 本發明發明人頃發現：可能以商業上熔體紡絲程序可接 受之間斷速率將P0Y及具有高陽離子染料親和力之高速 全拉伸（FDY)混合聚醯胺紗兩者紡絲，而且，甚至可能 將混合之臨界紗纺絲，例如含有細絲纖度的單絲紗及且= 非圓形外形截面之紗。此可經由在纺絲機器中將來自分開 絲組件之混合物的不同單絲紡絲’及在單絲已固化後但 將彼等捲繞前，在纺絲機器中藉喷氣交缠喷嘴將各 氣交纏予以實現。 ’、只 因此，本發明提供製造聚醯胺混合紗之方法包括 =的第-種聚酿胺單絲及第二組的與第一種聚酿胺不同 疋弟二種聚驢胺單絲同時纺絲，聯合第一組和第二組的單 絲通過-個嘴氣交纏之噴嘴；並繞緊經喷氣交纏之單絲。 經由本發明的万法所造成之紗通常是特別使用於衣料 用之織物紗。換言之，具有自約5至300分特之紗重量~ 自約0.5至約7分特之單絲重量的紗。較佳該紗 約3至約1 3 6支單絲。 較佳，此等紗具有約i 5%或更小的以烏斯特（uster)。〆。計 之單絲均勻度’更佳約1%或更小。為了使紗具有服裝應用 -6 本紙張尺度適用中81S豕標準(CNS) A4規格(21GX297公I) 565636565636 A7 ___ B7 V. Description of the Invention (1) The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a blended polyamide yarn suitable for the end use of clothing fabrics, and to a blended yarn, fabric, and clothing that can be obtained therefrom. There is a need to provide a fabric material that is particularly suitable for the end use of a garment, which comprises more than one polymer monofilament. More specifically, if the fabric contains many different monofilaments with different dye affinities, an eye-catching visual effect can be achieved on the dyed fabric. It is well known to use more than one yarn to weave a fabric to provide a blended fabric material. Yarns that provide bicomponent monofilaments are also well known, for instance, monofilaments having a sheath of a first polymer and a core of a second polymer. Finally, it is well known to provide mixed monofilament yarns by blending multiple fiber yarns spun from different materials on a texturing machine. However, this method is not entirely satisfactory and is limited to the manufacture of crimped hybrid yarns. It may therefore be necessary to develop novel hybrid fabric yarns, especially polyamide yarns, which are suitable for apparel applications and which can be made quickly and cheaply. Most nylon (polyamide) fabrics are dyed with so-called anionic dyes which have a special affinity for the amine end groups of the yarn. Generally, the anionic dyeable polyamines contain at least about 30, more typically about 40 to 60 and up to about 80 amine end group equivalents (AEG) per 106 grams of polymer. These dyes include acid dyes, metal complex dyes, reactive dyes and the like. It is also well known that nylon yarns, which are usually strongly dyed via anionic dyes, can be made resistant to these dyes by modifying polymer chemistry. Chemical agents that have been used to modify polyamines include difunctional carboxylic acids, especially sulfonated organic monofunctional acids and vinegars. For example, see U.S. Patent No. 4,075,378 to DuPont. These yarns are referred to as cationic dyeable yarns. 4- The paper size is applicable to the Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 specifications (210 X 297 mm) 565636 A7 B7_ 5. Description of the invention (2) or conveniently called cat- Dyed yarn is sometimes referred to as dyed yarn. These yarns usually contain less than about 40 and more typically 15 amine end group equivalents per 106 grams of polymer. Generally, cationic dye-dyeable polyamides contain at least about 50 and preferably about 70 to 150 equivalents of aromatic sulfonate groups per 106 grams of polymer. It is well known to use cationic dyed yarns for the manufacture of carpets'. In this case, they may be combined with a standard anion-dyeable yarn to produce a two-color mixing effect or a color-blending effect. The use of cationic dyeable yarns for garment end uses is extremely rare, but it is not known. As a result, over the years, there have been various commercial Cat-dyed yarns, such as US Patent 3 682 866 granted to Imperial Chemical Industries, LLC. And U.S. Patent 3,707,344 to BASF. A common feature of these yarns is that they are caused by spinning at a relatively slow rate through a conventional two-stage approach. Known: Spinning nylon polymers with cationic dyes is not as good as spinning nylons with standard anionic dyes, and has a higher break rate than the south. 'Even in the manufacture of carpet yarns, special yarns for apparel fabrics The lighter, the finer the monofilament, and the high speed spinning associated with it. The rate of inflammation should be extremely high until the use of cat dyed polymers for the final use of clothing is excluded. This is still the case, even though these yarns (especially when used in conjunction with conventional dyed nylon) are clearly highly desirable and provide many kinds of effects in the form of fabrics. A particularly desirable product is the eat-dyed nylon partially oriented yarn (POY), which can be used in combination with standard dyed yarns in a synthetic fiber texturing process to produce a two-tone mixed or color-stained yarn that deforms synthetic fibers after dyeing. This technique requires a more efficient and higher rate equipment for spinning fabric yarns that can be dyed with cationic dyes. The higher-speed spinning equipment and the paper size applicable to the Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 specifications (210X297 male f 565636) 5. Description of the invention (3) The products of these high-speed methods are disclosed here. By virtue of the present invention, It is possible to spin both ργ and high-speed fully-stretched polyurethane yarns 0 with high cationic dye affinity at an excellent discontinuous (monofilament break) rate suitable for commercial solution spinning procedures. And 'disclosed herein The monofilament spinning equipment can spin critical filaments of fine monofilament fineness, especially those with monofilament having a non-circular profile cross section. The inventors have discovered that it is possible to use a commercial melt spinning procedure to Accepts the discontinuity rate to spin POY and high-speed full-stretch (FDY) mixed polyamide yarns with high cationic dye affinity, and it is even possible to spin mixed critical yarns, such as filaments containing filament fineness Yarn and and = yarns with a non-circular cross-section. This can be done by spinning different monofilaments from a mixture of separate filament components in a spinning machine 'and after the monofilaments have been cured but before they are wound, Spinning machine The air-entanglement is realized by air-jet entanglement nozzles. 'Only for this reason, the present invention provides a method for manufacturing polyamide blended yarns, which includes the first polyamine monofilament and the second group of polyamines with the first type. Two kinds of polydonylamine monofilaments of different amines are spun at the same time, and the monofilaments of the first group and the second group are passed through an air-entangled nozzle; The yarns created by the invention of Waffa are usually fabric yarns especially used for clothing. In other words, yarns having a yarn weight from about 5 to 300 dtex to a monofilament weight from about 0.5 to about 7 dtex. Better The yarn is about 3 to about 136 monofilaments. Preferably, these yarns have an iust of about 5% or less. 〆. The uniformity of the monofilaments is more preferably about 1%. Or smaller. In order to make the yarn have clothing application-6 this paper size applies to 81S 豕 standard (CNS) A4 specification (21GX297 male I) 565636
所必須之高外觀均勻度及亦為了在合成纖維變形工藝，機 織和針織等操作時減少紗斷裂，這是需要的。 孩紗較佳具有自約2 0至約9 0 %之斷裂伸長率。該紗較 佳具有自約2 5至約65 cN/tex之韌度。此等抗拉性質對於 服裝織物應用十分需要。 在某些具體實施例中，第一種聚醯胺具有少於〇1重量 %之二氧化鈦含量較佳少於〇 · 〇 1重量％而第二種聚酿胺具 有大於0 · 3重量％之二氧化鈥含量較佳大於1 〇重量％。此 方式產生一種混合紗其含有來自增艷之透明或光亮第—組 份之光亮單絲高亮度對比無光或暗淡第二組份。 在某些具體實施例中，第一聚酿胺和第二聚酿胺具有使 用陰離子染料或陽離子染料之不同染色特性。此等染色特 性可能由於不同數目的胺端基所引起。舉例而言，第—聚 酿胺與第二聚醯胺中胺端基數目差別可能是每106克，胺 端基（AEG )的濃度至少8莫耳，較佳是每1 〇 6克，至少i 2 莫耳’更佳是每106克，至少15莫耳。AEG數目影響：聚 酿胺經由陰離子染料予以染色達多大深濃。或者或另外， 4酿胺之一可含有陰離子端基，例如橫酸鹽或竣酸鹽端基 其致使該聚醯胺用陽離子染料可染色。 在某些具體實施例中，第一聚醯胺包括陽離子染料聚醯 胺而第二聚醯胺包括陰離子染料聚醯胺。較佳，陽離子染 料聚酿胺具有每1〇6克，至少50陰離子端基（AEG)。因 此，根據本發明方法能第一次將服裝紗高速紡絲而可獲得 混色或夾色染色效應。 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準(CNS) A4規格（210 X 297公釐） 565636The high appearance uniformity required and also to reduce yarn breakage during operations such as synthetic fiber deformation processes, weaving and knitting are required. Kid yarn preferably has an elongation at break from about 20 to about 90%. The yarn preferably has a tenacity from about 25 to about 65 cN / tex. These tensile properties are highly desirable for apparel fabric applications. In certain embodiments, the first polyamine has a titanium dioxide content of less than 0.01% by weight, preferably less than 0.001% by weight, and the second polyamine has a ratio of greater than 0.3% by weight. The oxidation 'content is preferably greater than 10% by weight. This method produces a hybrid yarn that contains a bright monofilament from the brightening transparent or bright first component, a high brightness contrast to the dull or dull second component. In certain embodiments, the first polyamine and the second polyamine have different dyeing characteristics using an anionic dye or a cationic dye. These staining characteristics may be caused by different numbers of amine end groups. For example, the difference between the number of amine end groups in the first and second polyamines may be 106 grams per gram, and the concentration of the amine end groups (AEG) is at least 8 moles, preferably every 106 grams, at least i 2 Mohr 'is more preferably at least 15 Moore per 106 grams. AEG number effect: how deep the polyamine is dyed with an anionic dye. Alternatively or in addition, one of the amines may contain an anionic end group, such as a transverse acid salt or an end acid salt terminal group, which renders the polyamines dyeable with a cationic dye. In certain embodiments, the first polyamide comprises a cationic dye polyamide and the second polyamide comprises an anionic dye polyamide. Preferably, the cationic dye polyamine has at least 50 anionic end groups (AEG) per 106 grams. Therefore, according to the method of the present invention, it is possible to spin a garment yarn at a high speed for the first time to obtain a color mixing or color clamping effect. This paper size applies to China National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 X 297 mm) 565636
在某些具體實拖例中，產物紗中第一聚醯胺的單絲和第 一水酿胺的單絲顯示其沸水收縮性數值之至少1 〇 %絕對 差別如下文中所界定。此現象產生效果即：在隨後熱處理 時’南收縮單絲收縮而低收縮單絲則浮出，產生膨化變形 或變形工藝之外觀並授予紗或織物。 舉例而言，第一聚醯胺的胺組份包括已二胺而第二聚酶 胺疋一種共聚物其中胺組份包括已二胺與以二胺的總重量 為基準’至少20重量％之甲基戊二胺的混合物。較佳， 第一和第二聚醯胺的二胺組份是大體上或基本上由已二胺 和己二胺/20%甲基戊二胺所組成。在其他具體實施例 中’聚醯胺之一可包括尼龍6而其他聚醯胺可包括尼龍 6 6 ° 在某些具體實拖例中，各組單絲之一具有圓形單絲截面 而另外組之單絲具有非圓形單絲截面。此現象使在相同高 速纺絲程序中能獲得另外重要性目視效應。 非圓形單絲較佳具有大於2.5之個別單絲分特而圓形單 絲具有少於2之個別分特。 在某些較佳具體實施例中，非圓形單絲是具有大於丨2 和小於2 · 4改質比率之二葉形，較佳自約1 4至約1 8。改 質比率之定義是：外切外形之最小圓圈的半徑：經完全内 接入該外形中之最大圓圈半徑的比率。 在其他具體實施例中，將單絲截面伸長。該截面較佳具 有旋轉對稱的二重軸。舉例而言，單絲截面可由下列各形 狀組成之群中選出：橢圓形、帶形或扯鈐形等形狀。較 -8- 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準(CMS) A4規格(210 X 297公釐） 565636 A7 _______B7 五、發明説明（6 ) 佳’伸長之單絲截面的最長軸：與該最長軸成直角之最短 軸的長度比（縱橫比）是大於約5。 在較佳具體實施例中，第一組的單絲是光亮和三葉形具 有大於2 · 5之單絲分特，1 . 4至1 . 8間之改質比率且係由鹼 性染料聚合物所造成，而第二組的單絲是無光，圓形具有 小於2之單絲分特且係由酸性染料聚合物所造成。 將第一種和第二種許多的單絲以大體上習用方式纺絲通 過經侧向間隔之第一和第二許多的噴絲嘴％ (將此等喷絲 嘴孔各自餵供以熔融之第一種和第二種聚醯胺）。將喷絲 孔的因次，熔體速度、溫度、捲繞速率和其他纺絲條件以 習用方式選擇而產生所需要之單絲性質例如形狀、重量、 均勻性和韌度。將許多的單絲交織之事實引進限制即：就 兩種許多的單絲而論，捲繞速率按定義是相同。 交織，亦稱為摻和或纏結是該項程序，因此將新纺成絲 之多絲紗的大體上平行單絲經由周期性導致由較少單絲纏 結的部份所分隔之相間隔紗結或結點而授予内聚力。此周 期性結點結構係使單絲通經一流體喷嘴予以產生，流體一 般是壓縮空氣。交織引入内聚力在紗的各單絲中。 用於多絲紗交織之裝置包括來自英國Cheshire， Fibreguide有限公司之FG3型及來自瑞士，Wattwil， Heberlein Maschinenfabrik 公司之 Heberlein Polyjet SP。使 用 Heberlein Po,lyjet-SP-25，H133/C14 型在下列實例中。一 般，經供應至氣流喷射交纏裝置之空氣壓力是自5 5至200 kPa (8至30 psi)。交織的程度通常隨著空氣壓力增加及紗 -9- 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準(CNS) A4規格(210 X 297公釐)In some specific examples, the monofilament of the first polyamide and the monofilament of the first hydrolyzed amine in the product yarn show an absolute difference of at least 10% of its boiling water shrinkage value as defined below. This phenomenon has the effect that the 'South shrinkage monofilament shrinks and the low shrinkage monofilament emerges during the subsequent heat treatment, giving the appearance of puffing deformation or deformation process and granting yarn or fabric. For example, the amine component of the first polyamine includes hexamethylene diamine and the copolymer of the second polymerase amine, wherein the amine component includes hexamethylenediamine and at least 20% by weight based on the total weight of the diamine. A mixture of methylpentanediamine. Preferably, the diamine components of the first and second polyamines consist essentially or essentially of hexamethylenediamine and hexamethylenediamine / 20% methylpentanediamine. In other embodiments, one of the polyamides may include nylon 6 and other polyamides may include nylon 66. In some specific embodiments, one of the groups of monofilaments has a circular monofilament cross section and the other The monofilament of the group has a non-circular monofilament cross section. This phenomenon allows another important visual effect to be obtained in the same high speed spinning process. Non-round monofilaments preferably have individual monofilament dtex greater than 2.5 and round monofilaments have individual dtex less than 2. In some preferred embodiments, the non-circular monofilament has a bilobal shape with a modification ratio greater than 2 and less than 2 · 4, preferably from about 14 to about 18. The definition of the modification ratio is: the radius of the smallest circle of the circumscribed shape: the ratio of the radius of the largest circle that is completely inserted into the shape. In other embodiments, the cross-section of the monofilament is elongated. The cross-section preferably has a double axis of rotation symmetry. For example, the cross-section of a monofilament can be selected from the group consisting of the following shapes: oval, ribbon, or ragged shape. More than -8- This paper size applies the Chinese National Standard (CMS) A4 specification (210 X 297 mm) 565636 A7 _______B7 V. Description of the invention (6) The longest axis of Jia's stretched monofilament cross section: at right angles to the longest axis The length ratio (aspect ratio) of the shortest axis is greater than about 5. In a preferred embodiment, the monofilament of the first group is bright and trilobal with a monofilament dtex greater than 2.5, a modification ratio of 1.4 to 1.8 and polymerized by basic dye The monofilament of the second group is matte, the round has a monofilament dtex of less than 2 and is caused by the acid dye polymer. The first and second plurality of monofilaments were spun in a generally customary manner through the laterally spaced first and second plurality of spinnerets. (These nozzle holes were fed separately for melting. The first and second polyamines). The factors of the spinneret, melt speed, temperature, winding speed and other spinning conditions are customarily selected to produce the desired monofilament properties such as shape, weight, uniformity and toughness. The fact that many monofilaments are interlaced is introduced into the limitation that, for two and many monofilaments, the winding rate is by definition the same. Interlacing, also known as blending or entanglement, is the procedure, so that the substantially parallel monofilaments of newly spun multifilament yarns are separated by a period that causes them to be separated by less tangled portions of the monofilaments Knots or knots give cohesion. This periodic node structure causes the monofilament to be generated through a fluid nozzle, and the fluid is generally compressed air. Interlacing introduces cohesion into the individual filaments of the yarn. The equipment used for interlacing multifilament yarns includes Model FG3 from Fibreguide Ltd., Cheshire, England, and Heberlein Polyjet SP from Heberlein Maschinenfabrik, Switzerland, Wattwil. Heberlein Po, lyjet-SP-25, H133 / C14 is used in the following examples. Generally, the air pressure supplied to the air jet entanglement device is from 55 to 200 kPa (8 to 30 psi). The degree of interweaving usually increases with air pressure and yarn -9- This paper size applies to China National Standard (CNS) A4 (210 X 297 mm)
装 訂Binding
線 565636 五、發明説明（ 線張力之減小而増加。. 二前’可將許多的單絲個別換和而產生每種 ’色：：：、.:，、结。此方式提供具有條狀外觀之強夾 色在最終織物中。省略此步 、e八 7驟埝成當聯合時，單絲之緊密 2° 心時期混色外觀在織物中。關於特別程序條 :甚組份的適當含量和聯合摻和可經由實驗予以快速測定 而產生所需要之外觀。 =本發明所造成之紗較佳具有每米自6至4()交織節點。 ^據本發明之方法可另外包括經由假檢變形或空氣嗜射 .又形而將混合聚醯胺紗合纖變形工藝的步驟。 尚 車义佳將紗以至少3000米/分鐘之速率捲繞，更佳是 少测米/分鐘，最佳以至少4〇〇〇米/分鐘之速率捲繞。 種同速率紡絲’（關於陽離子染色聚醯胺截至目前為止 未實施）提供高紗產量且亦提供單絲的定向程度。 ^某些具體實拖例中，將紗以實質上不須中間拉伸步驟 之南速捲，.心，因此该紗是經部份定向之紗（p〇y )。 在其他具體實拖例中，將紗以具有中間拉伸步驟之高逯 捲繞。較佳，此方式導致全拉伸絲（{：1^)。 、 弟方面本發明&供經由根據本發明之方法可獲得 之混合聚醯胺紗其包括與第二組的與第一聚醯胺不同 二聚醯胺單絲交織之第一組的第一聚醯胺單絲。 較佳，根據本發明之紗是直絲紗，但是或者，它可能是 (合成纖維）變形紗，或是聯合具有不同縮率之單絲的直絲 紗，當歷經隨後之染色和整理操作時產生一種變形外觀和 10- 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準(CNS) A4規格(210X297公釐） 565636Thread 565636 V. Description of the invention (The thread tension decreases and increases. Two fronts can change a lot of monofilaments individually to produce each kind of color :: ,,: ,, knot. This method is provided with a stripe The strong color of the appearance is included in the final fabric. Omit this step, and e-8 7 will be a combination of monofilament tight 2 ° heart period mixed appearance in the fabric when combined. About special procedures: the appropriate content of the component and Joint blending can be quickly determined through experiments to produce the desired appearance. = The yarns produced by the present invention preferably have 6 to 4 () interlaced nodes per meter. ^ The method according to the present invention may additionally include deformation through false inspection Or air spitting. The shape of the hybrid polyamide yarn synthetic fiber deformation process. Shangche Yijia winds the yarn at a rate of at least 3000 meters / minute, more preferably less meters / minute, the best is Winding at a rate of at least 4,000 meters per minute. This kind of spinning at the same rate (for cationic dyed polyamides has not been implemented so far) provides high yarn yield and also provides a degree of orientation of the monofilaments. ^ Some specific facts In the example, the yarn is stretched so The speed of the step is south, so the yarn is a partially oriented yarn (p0y). In other specific examples, the yarn is wound at a high reed with an intermediate drawing step. Better, This method results in a fully drawn yarn ({: 1 ^). The present invention & a hybrid polyamide yarn obtainable by the method according to the invention includes a second group different from the first polyamide Dimer polyamide monofilament is interwoven with the first polyamide monofilament of the first group. Preferably, the yarn according to the present invention is a straight yarn, but alternatively, it may be a (synthetic fiber) textured yarn or a combination of Monofilament yarns with different shrinkage ratios have a deformed appearance when subjected to subsequent dyeing and finishing operations. 10- This paper size applies to China National Standard (CNS) A4 (210X297 mm) 565636
手感。Feel.
織物，較佳在相同染浴中。此等織物特別顯示引人注目之 在第三方面， 物。舉例而言， 色彩效應。 在第四方面，本發明提供包括根據本發明之織物在其可 見部份中之衣服。 ~ 本發明的特定具體實施例現在將參照附隨圖式經由實例 予以更進一步敘述，其中·· 复上是依照本發明，用於將陽離子可染色之聚醯胺紗高 速紡絲之較佳方法示意圖。 本說明書中此處和別處，程序參數和紗線以下列方式量計。 紗&聚合物相對黏度係在2 5 °C下，使用紗在含有10 %水 之甲酸中的8.4% w/w溶液予以量計（ASTM美國材料試驗 學會D789)。所使用之儀器是定時流動υ管型的自動化毛 細管黏度計。 紗分特（線密度）是根據BISFA ”用於測試聚醯胺單絲紗 之國際贊同方法’’ 1995，在2 0 °C和6 5 %相對溼度時使用繞 絲輪和增重平衡予以量計。 f國國家標準(CNS) A4規格(210X297公釐) 565636 A7 _— B7 五、發明説明（9 ) 、厂、泉治度均勻度’亦稱.為紗烏斯特(⑴…)百分數(u %) 係使用C型，Uster均勻度試驗儀3予以測定。 紗上之油百分數係使用Bruker NMR (核磁共振）⑹⑴邛⑶ pc-120儀器予以測定。校正係對著所熟知之標準（於此情 況，油含量係由利用熱石油醚自紗中萃出油，蒸發並權重 殘渣予以量計）而進行。 紗之抗拉性質（斷裂力，韌度、斷裂伸長率百分數和導 出之參數T*RE其中T是韌度將它乘#RE，斷裂伸長的平 方根）係使用BISFA ’’用於測試聚酿胺單絲紗之國際贊同方 法’’ 1995中所述之條件，在4301型，Instr〇n電子強力測試 儀上量計。 父織係根據ASTM標準方法e>4724_87 (重認可1992 )予以 量計。此方法包括經由針插入之交織測量之一般步驟。結 果以每米的所交織之紗，交織結點數目而示出。測量交織 結點之適當裝置疋來自瑞士，Zurich, Traubenstrasse 3, Rothschild測量儀器公司之Rothschild R2071/72自動交織試 驗儀。 沸水收縮率係根據BISFA ”用於測試聚醯胺單絲紗之國 際贊同方法"1995予以量計。 述及圖1，在10和10’處，將第一和第二熔融聚合物引 入聚合物濾器喷絲頭組件（12，12’）並計量通過噴絲板 (14，14’）而形成具有不同單絲截面之兩經空間分隔之許 多單絲（18，18·)。將各單絲經由驟冷風筒（16，16，）中調 濕空氣的侧流予以驟冷。較佳，將出現之單絲在兩個分開 -12- 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準(CNS) A4規格(210 X 297公釐） 565636 五、發明説明 A7The fabric is preferably in the same dye bath. These fabrics are particularly striking in the third aspect. For example, the color effect. In a fourth aspect, the invention provides a garment comprising a fabric according to the invention in its visible part. ~ The specific embodiment of the present invention will now be further described by way of example with reference to the accompanying drawings, wherein the above is a preferred method for high-speed spinning of cationic dyeable polyamide yarns according to the present invention schematic diagram. Here and elsewhere in this manual, program parameters and yarns are measured in the following manner. The relative viscosity of the yarn & polymer was measured at 25 ° C using an 8.4% w / w solution of the yarn in 10% water in formic acid (ASTM American Society for Testing and Materials D789). The instrument used is an automated capillary viscometer with a time-flow tube type. Yarn dtex (linear density) is based on BISFA "Internationally Approved Method for Testing Polyamide Monofilament Yarns" 1995, measured at 20 ° C and 65% relative humidity using a winding wheel and weight gain balance F. National Standard (CNS) A4 specification (210X297 mm) 565636 A7 _ — B7 V. Description of invention (9), uniformity of plant, spring, and degree of uniformity 'also known as the percentage of Uster (斯特 ...) (u%) is measured using Type C, Uster Uniformity Tester 3. The oil percentage on the yarn is measured using Bruker NMR (nuclear magnetic resonance) ⑹⑴ 邛 pc-120 instrument. Calibration is based on well-known standards ( In this case, the oil content is carried out by extracting oil from the yarn with hot petroleum ether, evaporating and weighting the residue to measure it. The tensile properties of the yarn (breaking force, toughness, percentage elongation at break, and derived parameters T * RE where T is the tenacity, multiply it by #RE, the square root of the elongation at break) using the conditions described in BISFA "Internationally Approved Method for Testing Polyvinyl Monofilament Yarns" in 1995, type 4301, Instr〇n electronic strength tester on the gauge. e > 4724_87 (Re-approved 1992). This method includes the general steps of interlaced measurement via needle insertion. The results are shown in the number of interwoven yarns per intermeter and the number of interlaced nodes. Appropriate device for measuring interlaced nodes自动 Rothschild R2071 / 72 automatic interweaving tester from Zurich, Traubenstrasse 3, Rothschild Measuring Instrument Company, Switzerland. Boiling water shrinkage is measured according to BISFA "Internationally Approved Method for Testing Polyamide Monofilament Yarns" 1995 Referring to FIG. 1, at 10 and 10 ', the first and second molten polymers are introduced into the polymer filter spinneret assembly (12, 12') and metered through the spinnerets (14, 14 ') to form Many monofilaments (18, 18 ·) separated in space by two monofilament cross sections. Each monofilament is quenched through a side stream of humidified air in a quench air cylinder (16, 16,). It is better to separate the emerged monofilaments in two. -12- This paper size applies the Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 specification (210 X 297 mm) 565636 5. Description of the invention A7
<風筒中冷卻以使可分開使每種組份驟冷流速及其他參數 (會聚距離等）最適化。將經驟冷之單絲在集束導絲器 (20，2(V)處會聚（較佳分開）成為紗並在輥（22，22，）上I 油而形成纺絲上油 < 前紡紗（24，24,），將彼等在2 5處經 由氣流喷射交織設備予以交織。 經交織之紗可採取A途徑而最後形成F D γ或採取B途徑 而形成Ρ Ο Y。遵循沿著A途徑，將紗經由餵料輥組合 2 6 (不意式只顯不一個單輥）自驟冷風筒退繞並經由輥組 合2 8 (亦示意式只顯示一個單輥）予以拉伸（輥組合2 8具有 大於輥組合2 6者之表面速率）。將經拉伸之紗在3 2處使用 常壓蒸汽回縮並視需要，藉3 4予以摻和並捲繞成為全拉 伸紗3 6的捲裝。遵循沿著B途徑，將紗經由進料和紗張力 控制輥組合2 6 ’和2 8 ·自驟冷風筒1 6，退繞。在捲繞階段期 間’ ” S -繞絲"構型提供良好紗線張力控制及在捲繞成ρογ 3 6 ’的捲裝前視需要施加換和器階段3 4，。 在Ρ Ο Y纺絲程序中，控制張力之導絲輥是視需要。任 何組份摻和步驟可在第一輥前，接著在POY程序中各輥 前，中間或後，聯合摻和器。 在FDY程序中，可將噴氣交纏噴嘴設置在拉伸輥前， 或回縮裝置後，或在捲繞前之任何其他階段因為與拉伸紗 相關聯之南張力，進料與拉伸棍間之交織並不佳。 實例1 下列組別的實驗舉例說明：在單一紡絲機器上，經由經 濟的Ρ Ο Y或F D Y途徑製造混合複絲或異質複絲的可能 -13- 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準(CNS) A4規格(210X297公釐) 565636 A7 _ B7 五、發明説明（~~) ~ 性，不須依賴分開捲繞及復合陽離子染料和陰離子染料組 份紗。 就大體而論，將兩種分開之聚合物，一種具有標準（陰 離子）染色聚醯胺而另種具有陽離子染色聚醯胺個別溶 化’並經由各自之計量泵分開前送至紡絲機器上之兩個接 鄰組件。兩組件的喷絲嘴個別具有相同設計或具有不同設 計而容許聯合不同單絲截面以使增加一個另外因次至紗的 差別外觀。將出現之溶融單絲經由驟冷空氧流冷卻，會聚 並在紡絲整理給液輥上上油，及聯合單絲通過噴氣交纏之 噴嘴。 在P 0 Y紗的情況中，然後將所聯合之異質複絲導引成 為簡單S -繞絲在一對的導絲輥上，最後捲繞在高速捲繞 機上成為筒管。為了控制紗線張力及捲裝成形，使用導絲 棍有利，但非必需。 在拉伸紗的情況中，將聯合之異質複絲前送而造成數匝 環繞一組的導絲輥（餵料輥），租數是足夠防止此等輥上之 滑移’然後通過以充分速率旋轉之另組的輥（拉仲棍）上來 拉伸紗接近預定數量（拉伸比），最後使用蒸氣箱熱定形。 將紗最後以每分鐘超過3000米之速率捲繞。視需要，可能 使用一種替代定形方法例如加熱之輥，並可將附加組的導 絲輥併合在拉伸輥與捲繞機之間來控制當使紗定形或回縮 時之張力。視需要，在最後捲繞步驟前亦可施加第二次應 用的纺絲油劑及/或附加之交織。 陽離子染色之聚醯胺含有經由摻合5 -磺酸基-間苯二酸 -14- 本紙張尺度適财@ g家標準(CNS) M規格(·χ297公爱) 565636< Cooling in the fan to optimize the quench flow rate and other parameters (convergence distance, etc.) of each component separately. The quenched monofilament is converged (preferably separated) into a yarn at a bunching guide (20, 2 (V)) and is oiled on a roller (22, 22,) to form a spinning oiling < pre-spinning Yarn (24, 24,), interweaving them at 25 points through the air jet weaving equipment. The interwoven yarns can take the A route to form FD γ or the B route to form P 0 Y. Follow along A Way, the yarn is unwound from the quenching air cylinder through the feeding roller combination 2 6 (unexpectedly showing only a single roller) and stretched through the roller combination 2 8 (also schematically shows only a single roller) (roll combination 2 8 has a surface velocity greater than that of the roller combination 2 6). The stretched yarn is retracted at 3 2 using normal pressure steam and if necessary, blended and wound by 3 4 to become a fully stretched yarn 3 6 Package. Follow the path B, and pass the yarn through the feed and yarn tension control roller combination 2 6 'and 2 8 · from the quench air blower 16, unwinding. During the winding phase' "S-Winding" The configuration provides good yarn tension control and, if necessary, a changer stage 3 4 before winding into a package of ρογ 3 6 '. In the P 0 Y spinning process The godet roller for controlling tension is optional. Any component blending step can be before the first roller, then before, during, or after each roller in the POY program, combined with the blender. In the FDY program, the air jet can be passed. The winding nozzle is set before the stretching roller, or after the retracting device, or at any other stage before winding because of the south tension associated with the stretching yarn, the interweaving between the feed and the stretching rod is not good. Example 1 The following groups of examples illustrate the possibility of manufacturing mixed multifilament or heteromultifilament on a single spinning machine through the economical POY or FDY route. 13- This paper applies the Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 specification ( 210X297 mm) 565636 A7 _ B7 V. Description of the invention (~~) ~, do not need to rely on separate winding and composite cationic dye and anionic dye component yarn. As a general rule, two separate polymers, one Two adjacent components with standard (anionic) dyed polyamide and the other with cationic dyed polyamide melted separately and sent to the spinning machine separately by their respective metering pumps. The spinnerets of the two components each have Same design or Different designs allow the combination of different monofilament cross sections to add a different appearance to the yarn. The melted monofilaments that have emerged are cooled by a quenched air stream of oxygen, converge and oil the liquid roll during spinning finishing, And the combined monofilament passes through the air-jet entangled nozzle. In the case of P 0 Y yarn, the combined heterogeneous multifilament is then guided into a simple S-winding on a pair of godet rollers, and finally wound on a high speed It becomes a bobbin on the winding machine. In order to control the yarn tension and package formation, the use of a guide wire rod is advantageous, but not necessary. In the case of drawing the yarn, the combined heterogeneous multifilament yarn is fed forward, causing several turns to surround Group of godet rollers (feeding rollers), the number of rents is sufficient to prevent slipping on these rollers' and then draw the yarn close to a predetermined number (stretching by rotating on another group of rollers (pulling rods) at a sufficient rate) Ratio), and finally use the steam box heat setting. The yarn is finally wound at a rate of more than 3000 meters per minute. If desired, an alternative setting method such as heated rollers may be used, and an additional set of godet rollers may be combined between the draw roller and the winder to control the tension when the yarn is shaped or retracted. If desired, a second application of spinning oil and / or additional interlacing can be applied before the final winding step. Cationic dyed polyamide contains 5 -sulfonic acid-isophthalic acid through blending. -14- This paper is suitable for standard @ g 家 标准 (CNS) M specifications (· 297297)
之納鹽（分子量2 6 8 )所y入之 聚合物且右类1 + Μ ΤΤ.»、Polymer of sodium salt (molecular weight 2 6 8) and right class 1 + ΜΤΤ. »,
入之磺酸官能基。所使用之特定 …。經使用於此等異質複絲之 物的細節示於表1中，而特定紗 實例和紡絲細節示於表2中。 自表2中可見：ί列示各種異質複絲，此等包括下列各項 之聯合： -陽離子染料和陰離子染料可染色之紗（全部上述）； -陽離子和深染陰離子（高Α ε g )紗（G，Η) ·; -陽離子染色和高縮率陰離子染色紗（丨）； -ΡΟΥ紗（D至Η)及FDY(a至C和I);及 -圓/圓截面（A，I)，in/扯鈐形（B，F)圓/三葉形（c，h) 雖然試驗的規模太小而不能授予纺絲間斷速率之精確指 示，但是並無嚴重紡絲困難之跡象。擠壓是清潔的，而噴 絲嘴面未顯示較通常使用標準高速程序時更多污染。紗均 勻性程度良好，具有約0.8%的Uster%數值而紗之筒管並 無顯著毛圈。 將自陰離子可染色/陽離子可染色之單絲組合所紡成之 紗針織成為襪統，將每一襪統使用相同染浴中適當組合在 一起之陰離子染料和陽離子染料以單一染浴操作染色。一 般，染色是在100°C和ρΗ=5·0時，於一種抗浴澱劑之存在 下進行歷1小時而防止兩種染料間相互作用。 經染色之彳蔑統具有最引人·/主目之混色或夹色外觀，每種 紗吸收適當染料。經由選擇特別染料，色對比可自稀薄變 更至強烈。而另外變更可經由聯合不同之紗截面、變更不 本紙張尺度適州中國國家標準(CNS) Α4規格(210 X 297公釐） 565636 A7 B7 五、發明説明（13 ) 同之單絲纖度及調整摻和之程度而增加。 表1 聚合物 RV AEG -so3h Ti〇2% Cat-1 31.5 41 55 0.02 Cat-2 45 45 72 0.27 AN-1 40 50 0 0.009 AN-2 40 50 0 1.0 AN-3 40 70 0 1.6 AN-4* 44 45 0 0.3 *聚醯胺- AN-4是己二酸和己二胺與20 %甲基戊二胺的 共聚酿胺。 表2 實驗 A B C D E F G H I 紗型 FDY FDY FDY POY POY POY POY POY FDY 分特 156 156 156 156 156 156 156 156 156 單絲 88 46 71 71 71 77 88 71 88 陰離子染色組份 78f68 7806 78f51 78f51 78f51 78f31 78f20 78f20 78f20 截面* R D TR TR R R R R R 陰離子染色聚醯胺 AN-1 AN-1 AN-1 AN-1 AN-2 AN-2 AN-3 AN-3 AN-4 陽離子染色組份 78f20 78f20 78f20 78f20 78f20 78f26 78f68 78f51 78f68 截面* R R R R TR D R TR R 陽離子染色聚醯胺 CAT-2 CAT-2 CAT-2 CAT-2 CAT-1 CAT-1 CAT-2 CAT-2 CAT-1 擠壓溫度ΓΟ 280 279 280 280 278 279 280 280 278 驟冷空氣速度(米/分） .35 .35 .35 .35 .40 .40 .35 .35 .35 拉伸比 1.6 1.6 1.6 1 1 1 1 1 1.6 捲繞速率(米/分） 4200 4200 4200 4200 4200 4200 4200 4200 4200 韌度(cN/tex) 44 43 44 32 34 33 32 30 39 延伸率 4() 48 47 74 66 68 73 72 53 -16- 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準(CNS) A4規格（210 X 297公釐） 565636 A7 B7 五、發明説明（ *截面：R =圓或環形；TR =三葉形；亞鈐形或二葉形 較淡色彩或色澤變體係由聯合具有相同型式之染料親和 力但截面不同之紗，二氧化鈦去光劑之含量，來自不同濃 度的胺端基之染色特性的深度，或使用其他聚合物變體例 如與尼龍6 6聯合之尼龍6紗予以產生。 表2中之紗〖例示含有高及低收縮率聚醯胺兩種組份之根 據本發明之紗。將該紗針織成襪統並在陰離子染料中染 色。染色後之織物具有膨大變形之外觀及由於紗的不同收 縮率所產生之手感。 上述具體實施例僅經由實例予以敘述。屬於附隨之申請 專利範圍的範圍以内，本發明的許多其他具體實施例將為 熟練讀者顯然可見。 -17- 本紙張尺度適用中國國家標準(CNS) A4規格(210X297:釐) " 一 " 'Into the sulfonic acid functional group. The specific used ... Details of the materials used in these heteromultifilaments are shown in Table 1, and specific yarn examples and spinning details are shown in Table 2. It can be seen from Table 2: that various heterofilaments are listed, including combinations of the following:-cationic and anionic dyeable yarns (all above);-cationic and deep-dying anions (high A ε g) Yarn (G, Η) ·;-cationic dyeing and high shrinkage anion dyeing yarn (丨);-ΟΟΥ yarn (D to Η) and FDY (a to C and I); and-round / round cross section (A, I ), In / pulled (B, F) round / trilobal (c, h) Although the scale of the test was too small to give an accurate indication of the spinning discontinuity, there were no signs of serious spinning difficulties. Squeezing is clean, and the spinneret face does not show more contamination than is usually the case with standard high-speed procedures. The yarn uniformity was good, with a Uster% value of about 0.8% and the yarn bobbin had no significant loops. The yarn spun from an anion-dyeable / cation-dyeable monofilament combination is knitted into hosiery, and each hosiery is dyed in a single dyeing bath using an anionic dye and a cationic dye appropriately combined together in the same dye bath. Generally, dyeing is performed at 100 ° C and ρΗ = 5.0 in the presence of an anti-bath agent for 1 hour to prevent interaction between the two dyes. The dyed slander system has the most attractive / main color mixed or sandwiched appearance, and each yarn absorbs the appropriate dye. By choosing special dyes, the color contrast can be changed from thin to strong. And other changes can be made by combining different yarn cross sections and changing the paper size. Shizhou Chinese National Standard (CNS) A4 specification (210 X 297 mm) 565636 A7 B7 5. Invention description (13) Same monofilament fineness and adjustment The degree of blending increases. Table 1 Polymer RV AEG -so3h Ti〇2% Cat-1 31.5 41 55 0.02 Cat-2 45 45 72 0.27 AN-1 40 50 0 0.009 AN-2 40 50 0 1.0 AN-3 40 70 0 1.6 AN-4 * 44 45 0 0.3 * Polyamine-AN-4 is a copolymerized amine of adipic acid and hexamethylenediamine with 20% methylpentanediamine. Table 2 Experimental ABCDEFGHI yarn type Cross section * RD TR TR RRRRR Anion-stained polyamine AN-1 AN-1 AN-1 AN-1 AN-2 AN-2 AN-3 AN-3 AN-4 Cationic staining component 78f20 78f20 78f20 78f20 78f20 78f26 78f68 78f51 78f68 cross section * RRRR TR DR TR R Cationic dyed polyamide CAT-2 CAT-2 CAT-2 CAT-2 CAT-1 CAT-1 CAT-2 CAT-2 CAT-1 Extrusion temperature ΓΟ 280 279 280 280 278 279 280 280 278 Quench air velocity (m / min) .35 .35 .35 .35 .40 .40 .35 .35 .35 Stretch ratio 1.6 1.6 1.6 1 1 1 1 1 1.6 Winding rate (m / min) 4200 4200 4200 4200 4200 4200 4200 4200 4200 4200 Toughness (cN / tex) 44 43 44 32 34 33 32 30 39 Elongation 4 () 48 47 74 66 68 73 72 53 53 -16- This paper size applies to Chinese national standards (CNS ) A4 size (210 X 297 mm) 565636 A7 B7 V. Description of the invention (* Cross-section: R = round or circular; TR = trilobal; sub- 钤 or two The lighter color or color change system consists of yarns with the same type of dye affinity but different cross sections, the content of titanium dioxide matting agent, the depth of dyeing characteristics from different concentrations of amine end groups, or using other polymer variants such as Nylon 6 yarn combined with nylon 6 6 was produced. The yarns in Table 2 exemplify yarns according to the present invention containing two components of high and low shrinkage polyamides. The yarns were knitted into hosiery and subjected to an anionic dye Medium dyeing. The dyed fabric has the appearance of swelling and deformation and the feel due to the different shrinkage of the yarn. The above specific embodiments are described by way of example only. Within the scope of the scope of the attached patent, many other aspects of the invention Specific embodiments will be apparent to the skilled reader. -17- This paper size applies to China National Standard (CNS) A4 (210X297: centimeter) " a " ''