TW202338176A - Composite false twisted yarn, woven fabric and clothing - Google Patents

Composite false twisted yarn, woven fabric and clothing Download PDF

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TW202338176A
TW202338176A TW112110368A TW112110368A TW202338176A TW 202338176 A TW202338176 A TW 202338176A TW 112110368 A TW112110368 A TW 112110368A TW 112110368 A TW112110368 A TW 112110368A TW 202338176 A TW202338176 A TW 202338176A
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yarn
fiber
polyamide
polyamide fiber
composite
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TW112110368A
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Chinese (zh)
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中道慎也
稲田康二郎
大和宜民
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日商東麗股份有限公司
日商東麗紡織股份有限公司
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Publication of TW202338176A publication Critical patent/TW202338176A/en

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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01FCHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F8/00Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
    • D01F8/04Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers
    • D01F8/12Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers with at least one polyamide as constituent
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/02Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/18Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by combining fibres, filaments, or yarns, having different shrinkage characteristics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/24Bulked yarns or threads, e.g. formed from staple fibre components with different relaxation characteristics

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

The purpose of the present invention is to provide a composite false twisted yarn and a woven fabric having an excellent feeling of bulkiness and softness in addition to having excellent stretchability and being particularly suitable for use in clothing, and also to provide clothing using the same. The present invention provides a composite false twisted yarn comprising a polyamide fiber A and a polyamide fiber B, wherein the polyamide fiber A is a latent crimp yarn, the polyamide fiber B is not a latent crimp yarn, and the ratio of adjacent filament groups in the polyamide fiber A is 50% or more.

Description

複合假撚加工紗、編織/針織物及衣服Composite false twist processed yarn, woven/knitted fabrics and clothing

本發明是有關於一種聚醯胺複合假撚加工紗、編織/針織物及衣服。The invention relates to a polyamide composite false twist processed yarn, woven/knitted fabrics and clothes.

自先前以來,在衣料用纖維中,為了藉由提高穿著時的運動追隨性來提高穿著舒適性、或者效率良好地發揮運動功能,主要是在聚酯纖維中賦予伸縮性。另外,近年來,除了要求伸縮性之外,亦要求賦予蓬鬆性或柔軟性等手感。Conventionally, in fibers for clothing, stretchability has been mainly imparted to polyester fibers in order to improve wearing comfort by improving movement following properties during wearing, or to efficiently perform sports functions. In addition, in recent years, in addition to stretchability, it is also required to provide texture such as bulkiness or softness.

至今,在較聚酯纖維柔軟且觸感亦良好的聚醯胺纖維中,例如提出了如專利文獻1所揭示般的將組成不同的聚醯胺複合成並列(side-by-side)型的纖維。So far, for polyamide fibers that are softer than polyester fibers and have good touch, it has been proposed to combine polyamides with different compositions into a side-by-side type as disclosed in Patent Document 1. fiber.

另外,為了獲得蓬鬆性,例如提出了如專利文獻2所揭示般的、包含具有黏度差的兩種聚醯胺的並列型纖維與其他聚醯胺纖維的混纖紗,或如專利文獻3所揭示般的環紗(loop yarn),所述環紗包含以聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯為主成分的層與以聚對苯二甲酸三亞甲基酯為主成分的層複合成並列型或偏芯鞘-芯(shearth-core)型的聚酯系複合纖維以及聚醯胺系纖維。 [現有技術文獻] [專利文獻] In addition, in order to obtain bulkiness, for example, as disclosed in Patent Document 2, a mixed yarn containing side-by-side fibers of two types of polyamides with different viscosities and other polyamide fibers has been proposed, or as disclosed in Patent Document 3 Disclosed is a loop yarn, which includes a layer mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate and a layer mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate, compounded into a side-by-side or Shearth-core type polyester composite fiber and polyamide fiber. [Prior art documents] [Patent Document]

專利文獻1:國際公開第2015/129735號 專利文獻2:日本專利特開2004-270085號公報 專利文獻3:日本專利特開2005-146447號公報 Patent Document 1: International Publication No. 2015/129735 Patent Document 2: Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 2004-270085 Patent Document 3: Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 2005-146447

[發明所欲解決之課題] 作為柔軟性提高手段之一,可考慮使用較聚酯纖維柔軟的聚醯胺纖維的方法。但是,在如專利文獻1所揭示的技術中,雖然可在抑制細紋產生的同時提高伸縮性,但由於捲縮形態單一,因此成為蓬鬆性不充分的編織/針織物。 [Problem to be solved by the invention] As one method of improving softness, one may consider using polyamide fiber, which is softer than polyester fiber. However, the technology disclosed in Patent Document 1 can suppress the occurrence of fine lines and improve stretchability. However, since the crimp pattern is single, the fabric becomes a knitted/knitted fabric with insufficient bulkiness.

另外,在如專利文獻2所揭示的技術中,可獲得蓬鬆性優異的混纖加工紗,但在藉由進行混纖而表現伸縮性的並列型纖維的單紗間混合存在有不表現出伸縮性的聚醯胺纖維的單紗,因此,並列型纖維的捲縮表現受到阻礙而無法獲得充分的伸縮性。進而,在如專利文獻3所揭示的技術中,亦可獲得蓬鬆性,但藉由使用包含聚酯的並列型纖維,雖可獲得蓬鬆性,但與專利文獻2同樣地,並列型纖維的捲縮表現受到阻礙,並且由於聚酯與聚醯胺的染色性不同,均染性或堅牢度低,無法較佳地用於衣服。In addition, in the technology disclosed in Patent Document 2, a mixed-fiber processed yarn with excellent bulkiness can be obtained. However, the single yarns of side-by-side fibers that exhibit stretchability by blending are mixed with each other and do not exhibit stretchability. Because of the single yarn of polyamide fiber, the crimp expression of the side-by-side fiber is hindered and sufficient stretchability cannot be obtained. Furthermore, in the technology disclosed in Patent Document 3, bulkiness can also be obtained, but by using side-by-side fibers containing polyester, although bulkiness can be obtained, like Patent Document 2, the winding of the side-by-side fibers The shrinkage performance is hindered, and due to the difference in dyeability between polyester and polyamide, the leveling or fastness is low and cannot be used optimally for clothing.

因此,本發明的目的在於解決上述課題,具體而言,其課題在於提供一種優異的伸長性等功能與蓬鬆性、柔軟性等手感優異、尤其可較佳地用於衣服的複合假撚加工紗及編織/針織物、使用了該些的衣服。 [解決課題之手段] Therefore, an object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems. Specifically, the object is to provide a composite false-twisted yarn that has excellent functions such as elongation and has excellent handles such as bulkiness and softness, and can be preferably used for clothing. And woven/knitted fabrics and clothes using them. [Means to solve the problem]

本發明的複合假撚加工紗包含聚醯胺纖維A及聚醯胺纖維B,所述聚醯胺纖維A為潛在捲縮紗,所述聚醯胺纖維B不為潛在捲縮紗,所述聚醯胺纖維A的鄰接長絲群組比率為50%以上。The composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention includes polyamide fiber A and polyamide fiber B. The polyamide fiber A is a latent crimp yarn, the polyamide fiber B is not a latent crimp yarn, and the polyamide fiber A is a latent crimp yarn. The adjacent filament group ratio of the polyamide fiber A is 50% or more.

根據本發明的複合假撚加工紗的較佳態樣,所述聚醯胺纖維A與所述聚醯胺纖維B的伸度差為7.0%以上且40.0%以下。According to a preferred aspect of the composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention, the elongation difference between the polyamide fiber A and the polyamide fiber B is 7.0% or more and 40.0% or less.

根據本發明的複合假撚加工紗的較佳態樣,所述聚醯胺纖維B的單紗纖度為0.3分特克斯(dtex)以上且0.9分特克斯以下。According to a preferred aspect of the composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention, the single yarn fineness of the polyamide fiber B is 0.3 dtex or more and 0.9 dtex or less.

根據本發明的複合假撚加工紗的較佳態樣,所述聚醯胺纖維A為平衡回潮率6.3%以下的偏心芯鞘型複合剖面,構成芯成分的聚醯胺與構成鞘成分的聚醯胺的黏度比為1.20以上且1.40以下。According to a preferred aspect of the composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention, the polyamide fiber A is an eccentric core-sheath type composite cross-section with an equilibrium moisture regain of 6.3% or less, and the polyamide constituting the core component and the polyamide constituting the sheath component are The viscosity ratio of amide is 1.20 or more and 1.40 or less.

本發明的編織/針織物在至少一部分包含表現出捲縮的本發明的複合假撚加工紗。The woven/knitted fabric of the present invention contains at least a part of the composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention that exhibits crimp.

本發明的衣服在至少一部分包含表現出捲縮的本發明的複合假撚加工紗。The garment of the present invention contains at least a part of the composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention that exhibits crimp.

本發明的衣服在至少一部分包含本發明的編織/針織物。 [發明的效果] The garments of the present invention comprise, at least in part, the woven/knitted fabric of the present invention. [Effects of the invention]

藉由本發明,可獲得一種不僅伸長性優異,蓬鬆性、柔軟性等手感亦優異的複合假撚加工紗。尤其是本發明的複合假撚加工紗可製成可較佳地用於衣服的編織/針織物或使用了其的衣服。According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a composite false-twisted yarn that is excellent not only in elongation but also in textures such as bulkiness and softness. In particular, the composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention can be made into a woven/knitted fabric that can be preferably used for clothing or clothing using the same.

本發明的複合假撚加工紗包含聚醯胺纖維A及聚醯胺纖維B,所述聚醯胺纖維A為潛在捲縮紗,所述聚醯胺纖維B不為潛在捲縮紗,所述聚醯胺纖維A的鄰接長絲群組比率為50%以上。The composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention includes polyamide fiber A and polyamide fiber B. The polyamide fiber A is a latent crimp yarn, the polyamide fiber B is not a latent crimp yarn, and the polyamide fiber A is a latent crimp yarn. The adjacent filament group ratio of the polyamide fiber A is 50% or more.

本發明中的聚醯胺纖維A為潛在捲縮紗,且為包含收縮性不同的兩種以上的聚醯胺的、複合成並列型或偏心芯鞘型的形狀的纖維。潛在捲縮紗可藉由假撚加工等而預先賦予捲縮,亦包括藉由複合的聚合物的收縮差而捲縮增加的情況。The polyamide fiber A in the present invention is a latent crimp yarn, and is a fiber composed of two or more polyamides with different shrinkage properties and compounded into a side-by-side or eccentric core-sheath type shape. The latent crimp yarn can be preliminarily given crimp by false twisting processing, etc., and it also includes cases where the crimp increases due to the shrinkage difference of the composite polymer.

此處,並列型例如可為半圓狀的第一聚合物與半圓狀的第二聚合物接合而成的結構,亦可為弧狀的第一聚合物與第二聚合物接合而成的複合結構。只要不阻礙本發明的效果,則偏心芯鞘型的纖維亦可包含與第一聚合物及第二聚合物不同的聚合物。Here, the parallel type may be, for example, a structure in which a semicircular first polymer and a semicircular second polymer are joined, or a composite structure in which an arc-shaped first polymer and a second polymer are joined together. . As long as the effects of the present invention are not hindered, the eccentric core-sheath type fiber may contain a polymer different from the first polymer and the second polymer.

所謂偏心芯鞘型,是指至少兩種聚合物形成了偏心的芯鞘結構的複合纖維。此處,所謂偏心,是指在複合纖維的剖面中,構成芯成分的聚合物的重心點位置與複合纖維剖面的中心不同的情況。另外,所謂芯鞘,是指作為芯成分的第一聚合物由作為鞘成分的第二聚合物覆蓋的狀態。只要不阻礙本發明的效果,則偏心芯鞘型的纖維只要是第一聚合物經覆蓋的態樣,便可包含與第一聚合物及第二聚合物不同的聚合物。The so-called eccentric core-sheath type refers to a composite fiber in which at least two polymers form an eccentric core-sheath structure. Here, eccentricity means that in the cross section of the composite fiber, the position of the center of gravity of the polymer constituting the core component is different from the center of the cross section of the composite fiber. In addition, the core-sheath refers to a state in which the first polymer as the core component is covered with the second polymer as the sheath component. As long as the effects of the present invention are not hindered, the eccentric core-sheath type fiber may contain a polymer different from the first polymer and the second polymer as long as it is covered with the first polymer.

構成本發明的聚醯胺纖維A及聚醯胺纖維B的聚醯胺若為結晶性,則品質穩定性提高,因此較佳。所謂結晶性聚醯胺,是形成結晶並具有熔點的聚醯胺,且為所謂的烴基經由醯胺鍵而與主鏈連結的聚合物。具體而言,可列舉:聚己醯胺(polycapramide)、聚六亞甲基己二醯胺、聚六亞甲基癸二醯胺、聚四亞甲基己二醯胺、1,4-雙(胺基甲基)環己烷與線狀脂肪族二羧酸的縮聚型聚醯胺等,及該些的共聚體或該些的混合物等。It is preferable that the polyamide constituting the polyamide fiber A and the polyamide fiber B of the present invention is crystalline because quality stability is improved. The so-called crystalline polyamide is a polyamide that forms crystals and has a melting point, and is a polymer in which a so-called hydrocarbon group is connected to the main chain via a amide bond. Specifically, polycapramide, polyhexamethylene adipamide, polyhexamethylene adipamide, polytetramethylene adipamide, 1,4-bis Condensation-polymerized polyamides of (aminomethyl)cyclohexane and linear aliphatic dicarboxylic acids, and their copolymers or mixtures thereof, etc.

本發明的聚醯胺纖維A為潛在捲縮紗,第一聚合物為第一聚醯胺,第二聚合物為第二聚醯胺。第一聚醯胺是尼龍6、尼龍66、尼龍4、尼龍610、尼龍11、尼龍12等及以該些為主成分的共聚體中與後述的第二聚醯胺不同種類的聚醯胺,只要不阻礙本發明的效果,則可在其重複結構中含有內醯胺、胺基羧酸、二胺及二羧酸以外的成分。其中,就製紗性或強度的方面而言,排除在重複結構中包含多元醇等的彈性體。The polyamide fiber A of the present invention is a latent crimp yarn, the first polymer is the first polyamide, and the second polymer is the second polyamide. The first polyamide is a different type of polyamide from the second polyamide described later among nylon 6, nylon 66, nylon 4, nylon 610, nylon 11, nylon 12, etc. and copolymers containing these as main components. As long as the effect of the present invention is not inhibited, components other than lactam, aminocarboxylic acid, diamine and dicarboxylic acid may be contained in the repeating structure. Among these, elastomers containing polyols and the like in a repeating structure are excluded from the viewpoint of yarn-making properties and strength.

另外,就製紗性、強度及防剝離性的觀點而言,較佳為將重複結構的90%以上設為單一的內醯胺、胺基羧酸或作為一組合的二胺及二羧酸的聚合體,更佳為重複結構的95%以上。就熱穩定性的觀點而言,尤佳的態樣為該成分是尼龍6或其共聚體。In addition, from the viewpoint of yarn-making properties, strength, and anti-peeling properties, it is preferable that at least 90% of the repeating structure be a single lactam, an aminocarboxylic acid, or a combination of a diamine and a dicarboxylic acid. polymer, preferably more than 95% of the repeating structure. From the viewpoint of thermal stability, a particularly preferred aspect is that the component is nylon 6 or its copolymer.

另外,第二聚醯胺例如藉由以癸二酸單元為主成分的二羧酸單元與二胺單元的組合而獲得。尤其可最佳地使用聚合性穩定而捲縮加工紗的黃化少、編織/針織物的伸縮性優異、染色性良好的尼龍610及其共聚體。此處,癸二酸例如可藉由自蓖麻油的種子進行精製而製造,從而被定位為植物來源原料。In addition, the second polyamide is obtained, for example, by a combination of a dicarboxylic acid unit and a diamine unit whose main component is a sebacic acid unit. In particular, nylon 610 and its copolymer, which have stable polymerization properties, less yellowing of crimped yarns, excellent stretchability of woven/knitted fabrics, and good dyeability, can be optimally used. Here, sebacic acid can be produced by purifying castor oil seeds, for example, and is positioned as a plant-derived raw material.

作為構成癸二酸單元以外的二羧酸單元的二羧酸,可列舉草酸、丙二酸、丁二酸、戊二酸、己二酸、庚二酸、辛二酸、壬二酸、鄰苯二甲酸、間苯二甲酸、及對苯二甲酸等,可在不損害本發明的效果的範圍內調配該些二羧酸。Examples of the dicarboxylic acid constituting the dicarboxylic acid unit other than the sebacic acid unit include oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, and ophthalmic acid. Dicarboxylic acids such as phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, etc. can be blended within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention.

另外,關於該些二羧酸,亦較佳為植物來源的二羧酸。作為所述癸二酸單元以外的二羧酸單元的共聚量,在全部二羧酸單元中較佳為0莫耳%~40莫耳%,更佳為0莫耳%~20莫耳%,進而佳的態樣為0莫耳%~10莫耳%。Moreover, regarding these dicarboxylic acids, plant-derived dicarboxylic acids are also preferred. The copolymerization amount of the dicarboxylic acid units other than the sebacic acid units is preferably 0 mol% to 40 mol%, more preferably 0 mol% to 20 mol%, in all dicarboxylic acid units. The best form is 0 mol% to 10 mol%.

作為構成二胺單元的二胺,可列舉碳數2以上的二胺、較佳為碳數4~12的二胺,具體而言,可列舉:丁二胺(putrescine)、1,5-戊二胺、六亞甲基二胺、三亞甲基二胺、壬二胺、甲基戊二胺、苯二胺、及乙胺丁醇(ethambutol)等。另外,關於該些二胺,亦較佳為植物來源的二胺。Examples of the diamine constituting the diamine unit include diamines having 2 or more carbon atoms, preferably diamines having 4 to 12 carbon atoms. Specific examples include butanediamine (putrescine) and 1,5-pentanediamine. Diamine, hexamethylenediamine, trimethylenediamine, nonanediamine, methylpentanediamine, phenylenediamine, ethambutol, etc. In addition, among these diamines, plant-derived diamines are also preferred.

聚醯胺纖維A的總纖度較佳為5分特克斯以上且300分特克斯以下,更佳為10分特克斯以上且200分特克斯以下。藉由設為所述總纖度的範圍,可在使複合假撚加工紗及編織/針織物的強度優異的同時獲得舒適的穿著感。另外,單紗纖度較佳為5.0分特克斯以下,更佳為2.5分特克斯以下。單紗纖度的下限實質上為0.7分特克斯。藉由設為該範圍的單紗纖度,捲縮的剛性不會變得過強,可獲得柔軟性更優異的複合假撚加工紗及編織/針織物。The total fineness of the polyamide fiber A is preferably 5 points-tex or more and 300 points-tex or less, more preferably 10 points-tex or more and 200 points-tex or less. By setting the total fineness within the above range, the composite false-twisted yarn and the knitted/knitted fabric can have excellent strength while achieving a comfortable wearing feel. In addition, the single yarn fineness is preferably 5.0 centtex or less, more preferably 2.5 centtex or less. The lower limit of single yarn fineness is essentially 0.7 decitex. By setting the single yarn fineness within this range, the rigidity of the crimp will not become too strong, and composite false-twisted yarn and knitted/knitted fabrics with improved softness can be obtained.

聚醯胺纖維A的伸度較佳為45%以上且90%以下,更佳為55%以上且80%以下。藉由設為所述伸度的範圍,可在複合假撚加工時充分延伸,能夠調整與後述聚醯胺纖維B的紗量差。The elongation of the polyamide fiber A is preferably from 45% to 90%, more preferably from 55% to 80%. By setting the elongation within the above-mentioned range, sufficient elongation can be achieved during composite false twist processing, and the difference in yarn amount from the polyamide fiber B described below can be adjusted.

本發明中的聚醯胺纖維B是與聚醯胺纖維A不同的聚醯胺纖維。聚醯胺纖維B不為潛在捲縮紗。藉由聚醯胺纖維B不具有潛在捲縮,進行染色加工後的複合假撚加工紗的膨脹變大。The polyamide fiber B in the present invention is a polyamide fiber different from the polyamide fiber A. Polyamide fiber B is not a latent crimp yarn. Since the polyamide fiber B does not have latent crimp, the expansion of the composite false-twisted yarn after dyeing becomes larger.

關於聚醯胺纖維B,只要不阻礙本發明的效果,則在尼龍6、尼龍66、尼龍4、尼龍610、尼龍11、尼龍12等及以該些為主成分的共聚體中,可在其重複結構中含有內醯胺、胺基羧酸、二胺及二羧酸以外的成分。其中,就製紗性或強度的方面而言,排除在重複結構中包含多元醇等的彈性體。As for the polyamide fiber B, as long as it does not hinder the effect of the present invention, it can be used in nylon 6, nylon 66, nylon 4, nylon 610, nylon 11, nylon 12, etc. and copolymers containing these as main components. The repeating structure contains components other than lactam, aminocarboxylic acid, diamine and dicarboxylic acid. Among these, elastomers containing polyols and the like in a repeating structure are excluded from the viewpoint of yarn-making properties and strength.

另外,就製紗性、強度及防剝離性的觀點而言,較佳為將重複結構的90%以上設為單一的內醯胺、胺基羧酸或作為一組合的二胺及二羧酸的聚合體,更佳為重複結構的95%以上。就熱穩定性的觀點而言,尤佳的態樣為該成分是尼龍6或其共聚體。In addition, from the viewpoint of yarn-making properties, strength, and anti-peeling properties, it is preferable that at least 90% of the repeating structure be a single lactam, an aminocarboxylic acid, or a combination of a diamine and a dicarboxylic acid. polymer, preferably more than 95% of the repeating structure. From the viewpoint of thermal stability, a particularly preferred aspect is that the component is nylon 6 or its copolymer.

聚醯胺纖維B的總纖度較佳為5分特克斯以上且200分特克斯以下,更佳為10分特克斯以上且150分特克斯以下。藉由設為所述總纖度的範圍,可在使複合假撚加工紗及編織/針織物的強度優異的同時獲得舒適的穿著感。另外,單紗纖度較佳為2.0分特克斯以下,更佳為0.9分特克斯以下。單紗纖度的下限較佳為0.3分特克斯。藉由設為該範圍的單紗纖度,編織/針織物表面的纖維變細,可獲得柔軟性更優異的複合假撚加工紗及編織/針織物。The total fineness of the polyamide fiber B is preferably 5 points-tex or more and 200 points-tex or less, more preferably 10 points-tex or more and 150 points-tex or less. By setting the total fineness within the above range, the composite false-twisted yarn and the knitted/knitted fabric can have excellent strength while achieving a comfortable wearing feel. In addition, the single yarn fineness is preferably 2.0 decitex or less, more preferably 0.9 decitex or less. The lower limit of single yarn fineness is preferably 0.3 decitex. By setting the single yarn fineness in this range, the fibers on the surface of the knitted/knitted fabric become thinner, and a composite false-twisted yarn and knitted/knitted fabric with more excellent softness can be obtained.

聚醯胺纖維B的伸度較佳為30%以上且90%以下,更佳為50%以上且80%以下。藉由設為所述伸度的範圍,在複合假撚加工時,藉由與聚醯胺纖維A的加工張力差,能夠控制與聚醯胺纖維A的紗長度差。The elongation of the polyamide fiber B is preferably from 30% to 90%, more preferably from 50% to 80%. By setting the elongation within the above range, the yarn length difference with the polyamide fiber A can be controlled by the difference in processing tension with the polyamide fiber A during composite false twist processing.

本發明的複合假撚加工紗中的聚醯胺纖維A(潛在捲縮紗)的鄰接長絲群組比率為50%以上,較佳為85%以上。潛在捲縮紗的鄰接長絲群組比率是藉由實施例記載的方法來算出。所謂潛在捲縮紗的鄰接長絲群組比率高,是指在複合假撚加工紗中潛在捲縮紗黏連存在,藉由設為該範圍的潛在捲縮紗的鄰接長絲群組比率,潛在捲縮紗充分表現出捲縮,可獲得優異的伸長性與蓬鬆性優異的複合假撚加工紗及編織/針織物。The adjacent filament group ratio of the polyamide fiber A (latent crimp yarn) in the composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention is 50% or more, preferably 85% or more. The adjacent filament group ratio of the latent crimp yarn was calculated by the method described in the Example. The so-called high adjacent filament group ratio of the latent crimp yarn refers to the presence of latent crimp yarn adhesion in the composite false-twisted yarn. By setting the adjacent filament group ratio of the latent crimp yarn to this range, Latent crimped yarn fully exhibits crimp, and composite false-twisted yarn and woven/knitted fabrics with excellent extensibility and bulk can be obtained.

本發明的複合假撚加工紗的伸縮復原率(鬈曲回復率(crimp recovery,CR))較佳為20%以上,更佳為25%以上。藉由設為該範圍的CR,可獲得高的伸長性與恢復性。The expansion and contraction recovery rate (crimp recovery rate (CR)) of the composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention is preferably 20% or more, more preferably 25% or more. By setting the CR in this range, high elongation and recovery properties can be obtained.

另外,本發明的複合假撚加工的CF值較佳為50以上且200以下,更佳為100以上且150以下。藉由設計成該範圍的CF值,可在不阻礙伸長性的情況下使步驟通過性良好。In addition, the CF value of the composite false twist processing of the present invention is preferably from 50 to 200, more preferably from 100 to 150. By designing the CF value into this range, the step passability can be improved without impeding the extensibility.

另外,根據需要,聚醯胺纖維A及聚醯胺纖維B可添加調配顏料、熱穩定劑、抗氧化劑、耐候劑、阻燃劑、塑化劑、脫模劑、潤滑劑、發泡劑、抗靜電劑、成形性改良劑、及強化劑等來使用。In addition, as needed, polyamide fiber A and polyamide fiber B can be added with pigments, heat stabilizers, antioxidants, weathering agents, flame retardants, plasticizers, release agents, lubricants, foaming agents, Antistatic agents, formability improvers, and strengthening agents are used.

本發明的複合假撚加工紗中的聚醯胺纖維A與聚醯胺纖維B的複合比率(重量)較佳為聚醯胺纖維A的比率為30%以上且80%以下,更佳為40%以上且80%以下。藉由設為該範圍的複合比率,可兼顧伸長性與蓬鬆性、柔軟性。The composite ratio (weight) of polyamide fiber A and polyamide fiber B in the composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention is preferably such that the ratio of polyamide fiber A is 30% or more and 80% or less, more preferably 40 % and above and below 80%. By setting the compound ratio in this range, it is possible to achieve both stretchability, bulkiness, and softness.

本發明的複合假撚加工紗中的聚醯胺纖維A與聚醯胺纖維B的伸度差較佳為7.0%以上且40.0%以下,更佳為9.0%以上且20.0%以下。若聚醯胺纖維A與聚醯胺纖維B的伸度差為7.0%以上,則例如在聚醯胺纖維B的伸度較聚醯胺纖維A高的情況下,聚醯胺纖維B在複合假撚加工紗的橫剖面中配置於外側而產生紗長度差,藉此複合假撚加工紗獲得蓬鬆性。另外,進行染色加工時的聚醯胺纖維B的顯色性變得良好,均染性亦優異。另外,若聚醯胺纖維A與聚醯胺纖維B的伸度差為40%以下,則假撚加工時的張力穩定,因此操作性優異。該範圍的伸度差可藉由將延伸倍率設定成在複合假撚加工中聚醯胺纖維A在延伸時的張力相對變高而獲得。The elongation difference between polyamide fiber A and polyamide fiber B in the composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention is preferably 7.0% or more and 40.0% or less, more preferably 9.0% or more and 20.0% or less. If the difference in elongation between polyamide fiber A and polyamide fiber B is 7.0% or more, for example, when polyamide fiber B has a higher elongation than polyamide fiber A, polyamide fiber B will The false-twisted yarn is arranged on the outside in the transverse section, resulting in a yarn length difference, whereby the composite false-twisted yarn acquires bulk. In addition, the color development properties of the polyamide fiber B during dyeing processing become good, and the leveling properties are also excellent. In addition, when the difference in elongation between the polyamide fiber A and the polyamide fiber B is 40% or less, the tension during false twist processing is stable, and therefore the workability is excellent. The elongation difference in this range can be obtained by setting the stretching ratio so that the tension of the polyamide fiber A during stretching becomes relatively high in the composite false twist processing.

另外,藉由設為本發明的複合假撚加工紗中的聚醯胺纖維A並非並列型複合纖維而為偏心芯鞘型複合纖維,能夠進行穩定的製紗,可獲得優異的品質。In addition, by using the polyamide fiber A in the composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention as an eccentric core-sheath type composite fiber instead of a side-by-side composite fiber, stable yarn production can be performed and excellent quality can be obtained.

在本發明中,聚醯胺纖維A較佳為設為溫度30℃下相對濕度90RH%、處理時間72小時時的平衡回潮率為6.3%以下。此處提及的所謂平衡回潮率,是指依據日本工業標準(Japanese Industrial Standards,JIS)L 1013 8.2(2021)而測定的平衡回潮率。藉由將平衡回潮率設為6.3%以下,精練步驟或染色加工步驟等濕熱條件下的聚醯胺纖維的膨潤變小,編織/針織物的延伸率變小並且可抑制細紋或褶皺。藉此,能夠在不對編織/針織物施加多餘的張力的情況下通過精練步驟或染色加工步驟等步驟,其結果,可獲得具有優異的伸縮性的編織/針織物。平衡回潮率較佳為6.0%以下。平衡回潮率較佳為1.0%以上。In the present invention, the polyamide fiber A preferably has an equilibrium moisture regain of 6.3% or less when the relative humidity is 90RH% at a temperature of 30°C and a treatment time of 72 hours. The so-called equilibrium moisture regain mentioned here refers to the equilibrium moisture regain measured in accordance with Japanese Industrial Standards (JIS) L 1013 8.2 (2021). By setting the equilibrium moisture regain to 6.3% or less, the polyamide fiber swells less under moist and hot conditions such as the scouring step or the dyeing process, and the elongation of the woven/knitted fabric becomes small, and fine lines and wrinkles can be suppressed. This allows the knitted/knitted fabric to pass through steps such as a scouring step or a dyeing process without applying unnecessary tension to the knitted/knitted fabric. As a result, a knitted/knitted fabric having excellent stretchability can be obtained. The optimal equilibrium moisture regain rate is below 6.0%. The optimal equilibrium moisture regain rate is above 1.0%.

另外,在本發明中使用的聚醯胺纖維A設為偏心芯鞘型複合纖維的情況下,構成鞘的第二聚醯胺的水分含有率較佳為4.0%以下,更佳為3.5%以下。水分含有率較佳為1.0%以上。較佳為將較本發明中的聚醯胺複合纖維的水分含有率低的聚醯胺、更佳為將較芯成分的第一聚醯胺的水分含有率低的聚醯胺配置於鞘側。藉由該些,可進一步抑制聚醯胺特有的由濕熱引起的膨潤,在通過染色加工步驟之後的製品中可獲得更良好的伸縮性。In addition, when the polyamide fiber A used in the present invention is an eccentric core-sheath type composite fiber, the moisture content of the second polyamide constituting the sheath is preferably 4.0% or less, more preferably 3.5% or less. . The moisture content is preferably 1.0% or more. It is preferable to arrange a polyamide with a lower moisture content than the polyamide composite fiber in the present invention, and more preferably a polyamide with a lower moisture content than the first polyamide of the core component on the sheath side. . By these, the swelling caused by moist heat, which is unique to polyamide, can be further suppressed, and better stretchability can be obtained in the product after the dyeing process.

水分含有率是依據JIS L 7251(2002)A法,對設為溫度23℃下相對濕度90RH%、處理時間72小時的試樣進行測定而得。在將偏心芯鞘型複合纖維的芯部分與鞘部分分離而僅使用鞘成分、或者在可特別指定鞘成分的情況下,使用與其相同的材料來進行測定。The moisture content is measured based on JIS L 7251 (2002) A method, with a relative humidity of 90RH% at a temperature of 23°C and a treatment time of 72 hours. The core part and the sheath part of the eccentric core-sheath type composite fiber are separated and only the sheath component is used, or when the sheath component can be specified, the measurement is performed using the same material.

另外,聚醯胺潛在捲縮紗的複合比率的較佳的態樣為第一聚醯胺:第二聚醯胺=6:4~4:6(質量比)。藉由將質量比設為6:4~4:6,容易將本發明中的聚醯胺複合纖維的平衡回潮率控制為6.3%以下,可對所獲得的複合假撚加工紗及編織/針織物賦予優異的伸縮性。In addition, a preferred aspect of the composite ratio of the polyamide latent crimp yarn is first polyamide: second polyamide = 6:4 to 4:6 (mass ratio). By setting the mass ratio to 6:4 to 4:6, it is easy to control the equilibrium moisture regain of the polyamide composite fiber in the present invention to less than 6.3%, and the obtained composite false-twisted yarn and knitting/knitting can be Provides excellent stretchability.

進而,本發明中的聚醯胺複合纖維較佳為:構成芯成分的聚醯胺與構成鞘成分的聚醯胺的黏度比、即無論是芯成分抑或是鞘成分的、複合的聚醯胺內相對黏度最大的聚醯胺的相對黏度除以相對黏度最小的聚醯胺的相對黏度而得的值為1.20以上且1.40以下,更佳為1.22以上且1.40以下,進而佳為1.30以上且1.40以下。藉由選擇使得黏度比進入該範圍的相對黏度的聚醯胺,在加熱處理後表現出收縮差,表現出更牢固的捲縮,編織/針織物的伸縮性提高。Furthermore, the polyamide composite fiber in the present invention is preferably: the viscosity ratio of the polyamide constituting the core component and the polyamide constituting the sheath component, that is, whether it is the core component or the sheath component, the composite polyamide The relative viscosity of the polyamide with the largest internal relative viscosity divided by the relative viscosity of the polyamide with the smallest relative viscosity is 1.20 or more and 1.40 or less, more preferably 1.22 or more and 1.40 or less, further preferably 1.30 or more and 1.40 the following. By selecting a polyamide with a relative viscosity that brings the viscosity ratio into this range, the polyamide exhibits a difference in shrinkage after heat treatment, exhibits stronger crimping, and improves the stretchability of the woven/knitted fabric.

在本發明中,藉由將平衡回潮率6.3%以下的偏心芯鞘型的聚醯胺複合纖維設為假撚加工紗,可進一步抑制膨潤的影響,可表現出作為假撚加工紗的效果。在平衡回潮率超過6.3%的情況下、或雖為複合纖維但為並列型的情況下,即使進行假撚加工,亦難以藉由步驟中的膨潤等獲得期待的效果。另外,亦可在不損害本發明的效果的範圍內包含並列型複合纖維中通常所使用的撚紗,但與假撚加工紗相比,有品質或手感、伸縮性差的傾向,因此要小心混合。In the present invention, by using the eccentric core-sheath type polyamide composite fiber with an equilibrium moisture regain of 6.3% or less as a false-twisted yarn, the effect of swelling can be further suppressed, and the effect of the false-twisted yarn can be exhibited. When the equilibrium moisture regain exceeds 6.3%, or when the composite fiber is of parallel type, even if false twisting is performed, it is difficult to obtain the desired effect due to swelling in the step. In addition, twisted yarn commonly used in side-by-side composite fibers may also be included within the range that does not impair the effect of the present invention. However, compared with false-twisted yarn, the quality, feel, and stretchability tend to be inferior, so careful mixing is required. .

本發明的編織/針織物在至少一部分包含表現出捲縮的本發明的複合假撚加工紗(以下,有時省略「表現出捲縮」而表示為「複合假撚加工紗」)。捲縮藉由染色加工來表現,其方法如後所述。The knitted/knitted fabric of the present invention contains at least a part of the composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention that exhibits crimp (hereinafter, “exhibiting crimp” may be omitted and referred to as “composite false-twisted yarn”). The curl is expressed by dyeing processing, and the method will be described later.

例如在編織物的情況下,為了使編織物的伸縮性更良好,經紗及緯紗中的至少一者可僅由本發明的複合假撚加工紗構成。另外,在針織物的情況下,構成紗的一部分只要是本發明的複合假撚加工紗即可,但為了使針織物的伸縮性更良好,亦較佳為在針織物的單面或雙面,本發明的複合假撚加工紗的混用率為50%以上。聚醯胺複合纖維的混用率藉由JIS L 1030-2(2012)來求出。再者,由於假撚加工紗在假撚加工中因在加熱狀態下收斂而進行剖面變形,因此可根據纖維橫剖面的觀察來判別有無假撚加工。For example, in the case of a knitted fabric, in order to improve the stretchability of the knitted fabric, at least one of the warp yarns and the weft yarns may be composed only of the composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention. In addition, in the case of a knitted fabric, a part of the constituting yarn only needs to be the composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention. However, in order to make the knitted fabric more stretchable, it is also preferable to form one or both sides of the knitted fabric. , the mixing rate of the composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention is more than 50%. The mixing ratio of polyamide composite fibers is determined according to JIS L 1030-2 (2012). Furthermore, since the false-twisted yarn is converged in a heated state during the false-twisting process and undergoes cross-sectional deformation, the presence or absence of the false-twisting process can be determined by observing the cross-section of the fiber.

在本發明的編織/針織物中,亦可在不損害本發明的效果的範圍內使用本發明的複合假撚加工紗以外的纖維,原材料並無特別限定,就染色堅牢度或伸縮性的觀點而言,較佳為使用包含聚醯胺纖維或陽離子可染聚酯纖維的伸縮紗、或將聚醯胺纖維、陽離子可染聚酯纖維或者各種天然纖維或半合成纖維被覆於聚胺基甲酸酯纖維而成的伸縮紗。另外,若使用包含聚醯胺纖維的伸縮紗,則表面品質亦優異,因此更佳。In the woven/knitted fabric of the present invention, fibers other than the composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention may be used within the scope that does not impair the effects of the present invention. The raw materials are not particularly limited, from the viewpoint of dyeing fastness or stretchability. In particular, it is preferable to use stretch yarns containing polyamide fibers or cationic dyeable polyester fibers, or to coat polyamide fibers, cationic dyeable polyester fibers or various natural fibers or semi-synthetic fibers on polyurethane. Stretch yarn made of acid ester fiber. In addition, it is more preferable to use a stretch yarn containing polyamide fiber because the surface quality is also excellent.

本發明的編織/針織物的組織並無限定,在編織物的情況下,根據所使用的用途,其組織可為平紋組織、斜紋組織、緞紋組織或該些的變化組織、及混合組織中的任一種。為了形成編織物的質地牢固的組織,較佳為約束點多的平紋組織或平紋雙面組織。另外,為了製成具有膨脹感、進而伸縮性優異的編織物,較佳為具有適度的約束點的斜紋組織。另外,在針織物的情況下,根據所使用的用途,其組織可為圓編物的平針組織、互鎖組織、經編物的半紗羅組織、緞組織、提花組織或該些的變化組織、及混合組織中的任一種,但較佳為作為針織物結構的蓬鬆性亦優異的雙羅紋組織或波紋板組織等。The weave of the woven/knitted fabric of the present invention is not limited. In the case of a knitted fabric, the weave may be a plain weave, a twill weave, a satin weave, a variation of these weaves, or a mixed weave depending on the intended use. any kind. In order to form a strong texture of the knitted fabric, a plain weave or a plain double-sided weave with many restraint points is preferred. In addition, in order to create a knitted fabric with a sense of expansion and excellent stretchability, a twill weave with moderate restraint points is preferred. In addition, in the case of knitted fabrics, depending on the intended use, the weave may be a plain knit weave of circular knitted fabrics, an interlocking weave, a semi-leno weave of warp knitted fabrics, a satin weave, a jacquard weave, or a variation of these weaves, and Any of mixed structures may be used, but a double rib structure or a corrugated plate structure that is also excellent in bulkiness as a knitted fabric structure is preferred.

關於本發明的編織/針織物的伸長率,在編織物的情況下較佳為15%以上,更佳為20%以上。上限並無特別限定,但考慮到恢復性,較佳為設計成50%以下。另外,在針織物的情況下,伸長率較佳為35%以上,更佳為45%以上。在針織物中,伸長率的條件亦無特別限定,但考慮到恢復性,較佳為設為150%以下。藉由設計成該些伸長率的範圍,製成衣服而穿著時運動追隨性高,穿著舒適性優異。The elongation of the knitted/knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably 15% or more in the case of a knitted fabric, more preferably 20% or more. The upper limit is not particularly limited, but considering recovery properties, it is preferably designed to be 50% or less. In addition, in the case of a knitted fabric, the elongation is preferably 35% or more, more preferably 45% or more. In knitted fabrics, the conditions for elongation are not particularly limited, but considering recovery properties, it is preferably 150% or less. By designing the elongation within these ranges, the garment can be made to have high movement tracking properties and excellent wearing comfort when worn.

接下來,對本發明的複合假撚加工紗及編織/針織物的製造方法的一例進行說明。Next, an example of a method for manufacturing the composite false-twisted yarn and knitted/knitted fabric of the present invention will be described.

[聚醯胺纖維的製造方法] 首先,針對聚醯胺纖維的熔融紡紗,先例示說明藉由高速直接紡紗的製造方法。為了設為本發明中的平衡回潮率或黏度比的範圍,較佳為參考單一成分的聚醯胺纖維的平衡回潮率或相對黏度來適宜地選擇芯成分的第一聚醯胺與鞘成分的第二聚醯胺。將所選擇的第一聚醯胺與第二聚醯胺分別熔融,使用齒輪泵進行計量並輸送,直接藉由通常的方法形成複合流以取得芯鞘結構,並自偏心芯鞘型複合纖維用紡紗嘴噴出。利用風筒(chimney)等紗條冷卻裝置對噴出的聚醯胺複合纖維紗條吹送冷卻風,藉此將紗條冷卻至30℃,由供油裝置供油並且進行收斂,利用牽引輥以1500 m/min~4000 m/min進行牽引,並通過牽引輥與延伸輥。此時,依照牽引輥與延伸輥的圓周速度之比而以1.0倍~3.0倍進行延伸。進而,利用延伸輥對紗條進行熱定型,以3000 m/min以上的捲繞速度捲繞成捲裝。另外,接下來另行例示說明聚醯胺複合纖維的熔融紡紗的藉由高速直接紡紗的製造方法。將第一聚醯胺與第二聚醯胺分別熔融,使用齒輪泵進行計量並輸送,直接藉由通常的方法形成複合流以取得芯鞘結構,使用偏心芯鞘型複合纖維用紡紗嘴自紡紗嘴噴出。利用風筒等紗條冷卻裝置對噴出的聚醯胺複合纖維紗條吹送冷卻風,藉此將紗條冷卻至30℃,由供油裝置供油並且進行收斂,利用牽引輥以1500 m/min~4500 m/min進行牽引,並通過牽引輥與延伸輥,此時,依照牽引輥與延伸輥的圓周速度之比而以1.0倍~1.2倍進行微延伸。進而,以3000 m/min以上的捲繞速度捲繞成捲裝。 [Production method of polyamide fiber] First, regarding the melt spinning of polyamide fiber, the manufacturing method by high-speed direct spinning will be exemplified. In order to set the range of the equilibrium moisture regain or viscosity ratio in the present invention, it is preferable to appropriately select the first polyamide of the core component and the sheath component with reference to the equilibrium moisture regain or relative viscosity of the single-component polyamide fiber. The second polyamide. The selected first polyamide and the second polyamide are melted separately, metered and transported using a gear pump, and a composite flow is directly formed by the usual method to obtain the core-sheath structure, and the eccentric core-sheath type composite fiber is used. The spinning nozzle spurts out. Use a sliver cooling device such as a chimney to blow cooling air on the sprayed polyamide composite fiber sliver, thereby cooling the sliver to 30°C. The oil supply device supplies oil and converges it, and uses a traction roller to rotate at 1500°C. m/min~4000 m/min for traction, and passes through the traction roller and extension roller. At this time, stretching is performed at 1.0 times to 3.0 times according to the ratio of the peripheral speeds of the traction roller and the stretching roller. Furthermore, the yarn is heat-set using a stretching roller and wound into a package at a winding speed of 3000 m/min or more. In addition, a manufacturing method of melt spinning of polyamide composite fiber by high-speed direct spinning will be explained separately below. The first polyamide and the second polyamide are melted separately, measured and transported using a gear pump, and a composite flow is directly formed by the usual method to obtain the core-sheath structure. An eccentric core-sheath type composite fiber spinning nozzle is used to automatically The spinning nozzle spurts out. Use a sliver cooling device such as an air duct to blow cooling air on the sprayed polyamide composite fiber sliver, thereby cooling the sliver to 30°C. The oil supply device supplies oil and converges it, and uses a traction roller to rotate at 1500 m/min. Traction is carried out at ~4500 m/min, and passes through the traction roller and the stretching roller. At this time, micro-stretching is performed at 1.0 times to 1.2 times according to the ratio of the peripheral speeds of the traction roller and the stretching roller. Furthermore, it is wound into a package at a winding speed of 3000 m/min or more.

尤其是以相對黏度高的聚醯胺的熔點為基準來適當地設計紡紗溫度。若紡紗溫度變高,則結晶部增大,平衡回潮率降低,若紡紗溫度變低,則有可動非晶量增大、剛直非晶量稍微降低的傾向。因此,紡紗溫度較佳為較聚醯胺的熔點高的235℃~270℃,更佳為245℃~260℃。藉由適當地設定紡紗溫度,可控制本發明中使用的聚醯胺複合纖維的平衡回潮率及剛直非晶量,可獲得所期望的熱收縮應力與伸縮伸長率。In particular, the spinning temperature should be appropriately designed based on the melting point of polyamide, which has a relatively high viscosity. When the spinning temperature becomes high, the crystalline portion increases and the equilibrium moisture regain decreases. When the spinning temperature becomes low, the movable amorphous amount tends to increase and the rigid amorphous amount tends to decrease slightly. Therefore, the spinning temperature is preferably 235°C to 270°C, which is higher than the melting point of polyamide, and more preferably 245°C to 260°C. By appropriately setting the spinning temperature, the equilibrium moisture regain and rigid amorphous content of the polyamide composite fiber used in the present invention can be controlled, and the desired thermal shrinkage stress and stretch elongation can be obtained.

一般在並列型複合剖面的情況下,因流動速度差而容易產生紗彎曲,操作性劣化,但藉由形成偏心芯鞘型複合剖面,製紗性變得良好,即使是單紗細纖度品亦可容易地獲得。Generally, in the case of a parallel type composite cross-section, yarn bending is likely to occur due to the difference in flow speed, and workability is deteriorated. However, by forming an eccentric core-sheath type composite cross-section, the yarn production properties become better, even for single yarn fineness products. Can be easily obtained.

藉由對牽伸延伸(牽引速度)進行適當設計,亦可控制聚醯胺複合纖維的平衡回潮率。若牽引速度快,則有結晶性變高、平衡回潮率變小的傾向,若牽引速度慢,則結晶性變低,平衡回潮率容易變大。另外,剛直非晶量增加,熱收縮應力與伸縮伸長率提高。牽引速度較佳為2500 m/min~4000 m/min。By appropriately designing the draft extension (drawing speed), the balanced moisture regain of the polyamide composite fiber can also be controlled. If the pulling speed is fast, the crystallinity becomes high and the equilibrium moisture regain tends to become small. If the pulling speed is slow, the crystallinity becomes low and the equilibrium moisture regain tends to increase. In addition, the amount of rigid amorphous material increases, and the thermal shrinkage stress and tensile elongation increase. The preferred traction speed is 2500 m/min ~ 4000 m/min.

在獲得延伸紗的情況下,有時藉由將牽引輥作為加熱輥來實施熱延伸,亦可減小本發明中使用的聚醯胺複合纖維的平衡回潮率。另外,剛直非晶量增加,熱收縮應力提高。延伸倍率較佳為1.1倍~3.0倍,更佳為1.3倍~3.0倍。熱延伸溫度較佳為30℃~90℃,更佳為40℃~60℃。另外,藉由將延伸輥作為加熱輥來實施熱定型,可適當地設計聚醯胺複合纖維的熱收縮應力。熱定型溫度較佳為130℃~180℃。When a stretched yarn is obtained, the equilibrium moisture regain of the polyamide composite fiber used in the present invention can also be reduced by performing thermal stretching using a traction roller as a heating roller. In addition, the amount of rigid amorphous material increases and the thermal shrinkage stress increases. The extension ratio is preferably 1.1 times to 3.0 times, more preferably 1.3 times to 3.0 times. The thermal extension temperature is preferably 30°C to 90°C, more preferably 40°C to 60°C. In addition, by using the stretching roller as a heating roller to perform heat setting, the heat shrinkage stress of the polyamide composite fiber can be appropriately designed. The preferred heat setting temperature is 130℃~180℃.

另外,亦能夠在捲繞之前的步驟中使用公知的交織裝置來實施交織。若有必要,亦能夠藉由賦予多次交織來提高交織數。進而,亦能夠在即將進行捲繞之前追加賦予油劑。In addition, interleaving can also be performed using a known interleaving device in the step before winding. If necessary, the number of interleavings can also be increased by providing multiple interleavings. Furthermore, the oil agent can also be added immediately before winding.

[複合假撚加工步驟] 複合假撚加工紗的製造方法需要分別控制聚醯胺纖維A及聚醯胺纖維B的延伸倍率,因此,需要使用如圖1所示般具有多個進給輥的設備。假撚方式並無特別限定,較佳為根據纖度或撚數,使用凸釘型(pin type)、摩擦型(friction type)及帶夾型(belt nip type)等實施假撚,尤佳為操作性優異的摩擦型或帶夾型。 [Composite false twist processing steps] The manufacturing method of the composite false-twisted yarn requires controlling the stretching ratio of the polyamide fiber A and the polyamide fiber B separately. Therefore, it is necessary to use equipment with multiple feed rollers as shown in Figure 1. The method of false twisting is not particularly limited, but it is preferable to use pin type, friction type, belt nip type, etc. to perform false twisting according to the fineness or number of twists. It is especially preferable to use Friction type or belt clamp type with excellent performance.

此處,基於圖1來說明本發明的複合假撚加工紗的製造方法。Here, the manufacturing method of the composite false-twisted yarn of this invention is demonstrated based on FIG. 1.

自第一進給輥(1)進行聚醯胺纖維A(A)的給紗,自第二進給輥(2)進行聚醯胺纖維B(B)的給紗,並利用引導件(3)使該些合流後,在加熱器(4)、冷卻板(5)、撚紗機(6)、第三進給輥(7)之間進行延伸同時假撚加工。此時,藉由分別調整第一進給輥(1)與第二進給輥(2)的速度來控制聚醯胺纖維A與聚醯胺纖維B的延伸倍率,具體而言,將延伸倍率設定成使得聚醯胺纖維A的假撚後伸度成為30%以上且45%以下、較佳為30%以上且40%以下,聚醯胺纖維B的假撚後伸度成為40%以上且70%以下、較佳為40%以上且55%以下。藉由設為該範圍的延伸倍率,可充分獲得複合假撚加工紗的強度或捲縮性,另外,藉由聚醯胺纖維A的延伸時的張力相對變高,使得聚醯胺纖維A偏向存在於複合假撚加工紗的紗條的中心,可將聚醯胺纖維A的鄰接長絲群組比率設為50%以上。Polyamide fiber A (A) is fed from the first feed roller (1), polyamide fiber B (B) is fed from the second feed roller (2), and the guide (3) is used. ) After these are merged, the stretching and false twisting process is performed between the heater (4), the cooling plate (5), the twisting machine (6), and the third feed roller (7). At this time, the stretching ratio of polyamide fiber A and polyamide fiber B is controlled by adjusting the speed of the first feeding roller (1) and the second feeding roller (2) respectively. Specifically, the stretching ratio is The polyamide fiber A is set so that the false twist elongation is 30% or more and 45% or less, preferably 30% or more and 40% or less, and the polyamide fiber B is set so that the false twist elongation is 40% or more and 40% or less. 70% or less, preferably 40% or more and 55% or less. By setting the stretch ratio in this range, the strength or crimpability of the composite false-twisted yarn can be fully obtained. In addition, the tension during stretching of the polyamide fiber A becomes relatively high, causing the polyamide fiber A to deviate. The adjacent filament group ratio of the polyamide fiber A can be set to 50% or more in the center of the sliver of the composite false-twisted yarn.

另一方面,延伸時的張力相對變低的聚醯胺纖維B一邊纏繞於聚醯胺纖維A上一邊延伸,藉此獲得與聚醯胺纖維A的紗長度差,且由於偏向存在於複合假撚加工紗的表面,因此當染色加工時不易看到由聚醯胺纖維A與聚醯胺纖維B的染著差引起的色不均。On the other hand, the polyamide fiber B, which has a relatively low tension during stretching, is stretched while being wound around the polyamide fiber A, thereby obtaining a yarn length difference from the polyamide fiber A, and due to the bias, the composite dummy fiber B is The surface of the yarn is twisted, so color unevenness caused by the difference in dyeing between polyamide fiber A and polyamide fiber B is less likely to be seen when dyeing.

在複合假撚加工中,加熱器(4)較佳為150℃以上且200℃以下,更佳為160℃以上且180℃以下。藉由設為該範圍的加熱器溫度,可對複合假撚加工紗賦予強的捲縮。In the composite false twist processing, the heater (4) is preferably 150°C or more and 200°C or less, and more preferably 160°C or more and 180°C or less. By setting the heater temperature within this range, strong crimp can be imparted to the composite false-twisted yarn.

另外,在聚醯胺纖維的情況下,撚係數K較佳為稍高地設定為26000~33000。具體而言,在摩擦型的情況下,有效的是增加盤片數、或使盤速度增速,在帶夾型的情況下,可藉由增大帶交叉角、或增強帶的接觸壓力來控制撚係數K。作為一例,在摩擦型的情況下,較佳為盤片數為8片以上、盤速度/紗速之比為1.5以上。在帶夾型的情況下,較佳為帶交叉角為100°以上、帶的接觸壓力為1 g/dtex以上。藉由設為該範圍的撚係數K,不僅捲縮性提高,聚醯胺纖維B配設於複合假撚加工紗的外側的成數亦變多,因此可獲得良好的柔軟性或均染性。In addition, in the case of polyamide fibers, the twist coefficient K is preferably set to a slightly higher value of 26,000 to 33,000. Specifically, in the case of the friction type, it is effective to increase the number of discs or increase the disc speed. In the case of the belt clamp type, it can be achieved by increasing the belt intersection angle or increasing the contact pressure of the belt. Control the twist coefficient K. As an example, in the case of a friction type, it is preferable that the number of disks is 8 or more and the disk speed/yarn speed ratio is 1.5 or more. In the case of a belt clamp type, it is preferable that the belt intersection angle is 100° or more and the belt contact pressure is 1 g/dtex or more. By setting the twist coefficient K in this range, not only the crimpability is improved, but also the number of polyamide fiber B disposed on the outside of the composite false-twisted yarn is increased, so that good softness or leveling properties can be obtained.

進而,較佳為在第三進給輥(7)與第四進給輥(9)之間進行交織處理。在交織處理中使用交織噴嘴(interlacing nozzle)的情況由於可維持聚醯胺纖維A的鄰接長絲群組比率而較佳。Furthermore, it is preferable to perform an interlacing process between the third feed roller (7) and the fourth feed roller (9). It is preferable to use an interlacing nozzle in the interlacing process because the ratio of the adjacent filament groups of the polyamide fiber A can be maintained.

然後,利用捲取機(10)進行捲繞,獲得複合假撚加工紗的捲裝。Then, winding is performed using a winding machine (10) to obtain a package of the composite false-twisted yarn.

[編織/針織物的形成步驟] 本發明的編織/針織物能夠依照公知的方法進行編織及針織,在編織物的情況下,使用噴氣織機、噴水織機、劍桅式織機(rapier loom)、片梭織機(projectile loom)、梭織機(shuttle loom)等進行編織。在針織物的情況下,使用平編機、收放針(full-fashioned)針織機、圓編機、電腦提花針織機、織襪機、圓筒編機等緯編機,或翠可特(Tricot)經編機、拉舍爾(Raschel)經編機、米蘭尼斯平型經編機(Milanese loom)等經編機進行針織。 [Steps for forming braided/knitted fabrics] The woven/knitted fabric of the present invention can be woven and knitted according to known methods. In the case of the knitted fabric, an air-jet loom, a water-jet loom, a rapier loom, a projectile loom, or a shuttle loom can be used. (shuttle loom) etc. for weaving. In the case of knitted fabrics, use a weft knitting machine such as a plain knitting machine, full-fashioned knitting machine, circular knitting machine, computerized jacquard knitting machine, sock knitting machine, cylinder knitting machine, or Tricote ( Tricot warp knitting machine, Raschel warp knitting machine, Milanese loom and other warp knitting machines are used for knitting.

[染色加工步驟] 本發明的編織/針織物在編織或針織後,依照公知的方法進行染色加工。在本發明中,將精練、鬆弛處理、中間熱定型、染色加工(狹義)、精加工熱定型的加工統稱為「染色加工」。接下來,示出本發明的染色加工步驟的一例,但本發明的染色加工步驟並不限定於以下記載的步驟或條件,只要使用公知的染色加工步驟即可。 [Dyeing Processing Steps] After the woven/knitted fabric of the present invention is woven or knitted, it is dyed according to a known method. In the present invention, the processes of scouring, relaxing treatment, intermediate heat setting, dyeing processing (narrow sense), and finishing heat setting are collectively referred to as "dyeing processing." Next, an example of the dyeing process step of the present invention will be shown. However, the dyeing process step of the present invention is not limited to the steps or conditions described below, and a known dyeing process step may be used.

染色加工步驟的一例:精練(80℃、20分鐘、濕熱)→鬆弛處理(100℃、30分鐘、濕熱)→中間熱定型(180℃、1分鐘)→染色加工(黑色、100℃、60分鐘)→精加工熱定型(170℃、30秒)。另外,在本發明中,方便起見而稱為「染色加工步驟」,但無論如何只要包括加熱步驟,便為「染色加工步驟」,精練、鬆弛處理、中間熱定型、染色加工(狹義)、精加工熱定型中的任一者皆可省略。另外,即使不使用染料而為原色品亦無任何問題。An example of dyeing processing steps: Scouring (80°C, 20 minutes, moist heat) → Relaxation treatment (100°C, 30 minutes, damp heat) → Intermediate heat setting (180°C, 1 minute) → Dyeing processing (black, 100°C, 60 minutes )→Finishing heat setting (170℃, 30 seconds). In addition, in the present invention, it is called "dyeing processing step" for convenience, but in any case, as long as it includes a heating step, it is called "dying processing step", scouring, relaxing treatment, intermediate heat setting, dyeing processing (narrow sense), Either of the finishing heat setting can be omitted. In addition, there is no problem even if it is a natural color product without using dye.

為了獲得充分的伸長性,較佳為在染色加工步驟中調整、控制加工條件。在大量使用水或熱水、蒸汽的染色加工步驟中,尤其要控制加工張力。在經向或緯向的加工張力高的情況下,在施加高張力的方向上編織/針織結構內的纖維的捲縮表現受到抑制,有伸長性變低的傾向。在編織/針織物的染色加工步驟中,一般而言,聚醯胺纖維會因水分等而膨潤,存在細紋等品質降低或步驟通過性劣化,因此施加較高的張力進行加工。在本發明的較佳的態樣中,藉由為使用偏心芯鞘型的聚醯胺潛在捲縮紗作為聚醯胺纖維A的編織/針織物,可抑制細紋等品質降低或步驟通過性的劣化。另外,藉由控制加工張力,能夠在染色加工後表現出充分的捲縮,可獲得高的伸長性。In order to obtain sufficient elongation, it is preferable to adjust and control the processing conditions during the dyeing processing step. In dyeing processing steps that use a large amount of water, hot water, or steam, it is especially necessary to control the processing tension. When the processing tension in the warp or weft direction is high, the crimp expression of the fibers in the braided/knitted structure is suppressed in the direction in which the high tension is applied, and the extensibility tends to be reduced. In the dyeing process of woven/knitted fabrics, generally speaking, polyamide fibers swell due to moisture, etc., resulting in reduced quality such as fine lines or deterioration in step passability. Therefore, high tension is applied for processing. In a preferred aspect of the present invention, by using an eccentric core-sheath type polyamide latent crimp yarn as the woven/knitted fabric of the polyamide fiber A, it is possible to suppress deterioration in quality such as fine lines or in step passability. of deterioration. In addition, by controlling the processing tension, sufficient crimp can be expressed after dyeing processing, and high extensibility can be obtained.

本發明的編織/針織物可利用其伸長性或蓬鬆性、柔軟性而用於衣服或寢具、包、床單、手套、地毯、表皮材等各種用途,其中,藉由製成在至少一部分包含該編織/針織物的衣服,不會阻礙身體的活動且手感亦優異,因此可獲得穿著感優異的衣服。即,本發明的衣服在至少一部分包含表現出捲縮的本發明的複合假撚加工紗或本發明的編織/針織物。The woven/knitted fabric of the present invention can be used for various purposes such as clothing, bedding, bags, sheets, gloves, carpets, surface materials, etc. by utilizing its stretchability, bulkiness, and softness, wherein at least part of it is made of Clothes made of this woven/knitted fabric do not hinder the movement of the body and have excellent feel, so clothes with excellent wearing feel can be obtained. That is, the garment of the present invention contains at least a part of the composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention or the woven/knitted fabric of the present invention that exhibits crimp.

本發明的衣服的用途並無限定,是以羽絨服(down jacket)、擋風夾克(windbreaker)、高爾夫球服(golf wear)、防水衣(rainwear)、瑜伽服(yoga wear)等為代表的運動、休閒服或時裝、內衣(inner)或襪套(leg)等內衣褲、襪子等。尤其可較佳地用於運動服。 [實施例] The use of the clothing of the present invention is not limited, and is represented by down jackets, windbreakers, golf wear, rainwear, yoga wear, etc. , casual wear or fashion, underwear (inner) or socks (leg) and other underwear, socks, etc. It is particularly suitable for use in sportswear. [Example]

接下來,基於實施例來具體說明本發明。但是,本發明並不僅限於該些實施例。再者,在各物性的測定中,無特別記載者是基於上文所述的方法進行測定的物性。Next, the present invention will be specifically described based on examples. However, the present invention is not limited to these embodiments. In addition, in the measurement of each physical property, unless otherwise stated, the physical property was measured based on the method mentioned above.

[測定方法] (1)相對黏度 將聚醯胺切屑(chip)試樣0.25 g溶解成相對於濃度98質量%的硫酸25 ml而成為1 g/100 ml,使用奧士華(Ostwald)型黏度計測定25℃的溫度下的流動時間(T1)。接著,測定僅濃度98質量%的硫酸的流動時間(T2)。將T1相對於T2之比、即T1/T2設為硫酸相對黏度。 [Measurement method] (1) Relative viscosity 0.25 g of a polyamide chip sample was dissolved into 25 ml of sulfuric acid with a concentration of 98% by mass to obtain 1 g/100 ml, and the flow at a temperature of 25°C was measured using an Ostwald viscometer. Time (T1). Next, the flow time (T2) of only sulfuric acid with a concentration of 98% by mass was measured. Let the ratio of T1 to T2, that is, T1/T2, be the relative viscosity of sulfuric acid.

(2)平衡回潮率 依據JIS L 1013 8.2(2021年度版),根據在絕乾狀態與溫度30℃、相對濕度90%RH下處理72小時而得的質量測定平衡回潮率。 (2) Balanced moisture regain In accordance with JIS L 1013 8.2 (2021 edition), the equilibrium moisture regain is measured based on the mass obtained by processing for 72 hours in an absolutely dry state at a temperature of 30°C and a relative humidity of 90% RH.

(3)水分含有率 水分含有率是依據JIS L 7251 A法(2002)對設定為溫度23℃下相對濕度90RH%、處理時間72小時的試樣進行測定而得。 (3) Moisture content rate The moisture content is measured based on JIS L 7251 A method (2002) on a sample set to a relative humidity of 90RH% at a temperature of 23°C and a treatment time of 72 hours.

(4)總纖度 依據JIS L 1013 8.3(2021)。將纖維試樣在1/30(g)的張力下使用框周長1.125 m的檢尺機製作成200匝的絞紗。在105℃的溫度下乾燥60分鐘並移至乾燥器(desiccator)中,在溫度20℃、相對濕度55%RH環境下放置冷卻30分鐘,根據測定絞紗的質量而得的值算出每10000 m的質量,並利用依據JIS L 0105 4.1(2020)的公定回潮率算出纖維紗條的總纖度。進行5次測定,將平均值設為總纖度。 (4) Total fineness According to JIS L 1013 8.3 (2021). The fiber sample was made into a skein of 200 turns using a gauge machine with a frame circumference of 1.125 m under a tension of 1/30 (g). Dry at 105°C for 60 minutes, move to a desiccator, and leave to cool for 30 minutes at a temperature of 20°C and a relative humidity of 55% RH. Calculate the weight per 10,000 m based on the value obtained by measuring the mass of the skein. quality, and calculate the total fineness of the fiber sliver using the public moisture regain based on JIS L 0105 4.1 (2020). The measurement was performed five times, and the average value was defined as the total fineness.

(5)CR(伸縮復原率) 依據JIS L 1013 8.12(2021)。 (5) CR (Telescopic recovery rate) According to JIS L 1013 8.12 (2021).

(6)交織度(CF值) 使用纏結測試儀(羅斯柴爾德(Rothschild)公司製造,纏結測試儀型號(Entanglement Tester Type)R2072),如以下般求出交織度。在將針刺入紗條的狀態下,施加初張力10 g而使其以一定速度5 m/min移行,在交織點處對張力達到規定值(脫線等級(trip level))即15.5 cN時的長度(開纖長度)進行30次測定,基於將30次的值加以平均而得的長度(平均開纖長度:mm),使用下述式求出每1 m紗條的交織度(CF值)。 交織度CF=1000/平均開纖長度。 (6) Interweaving degree (CF value) Using an entanglement tester (Entanglement Tester Type R2072, manufactured by Rothschild Co., Ltd.), the degree of interlacing is determined as follows. With the needle inserted into the yarn, an initial tension of 10 g is applied and it moves at a certain speed of 5 m/min. When the tension reaches the specified value (trip level) at the interlacing point, that is, 15.5 cN The length (spreading length) is measured 30 times, and based on the length obtained by averaging the 30 values (average spread length: mm), the degree of interlacing (CF value) per 1 m of yarn is calculated using the following formula ). Interweaving degree CF=1000/average fiber opening length.

(7)潛在捲縮紗的鄰接長絲群組比率 本發明中提及的所謂鄰接長絲群組,是指在複合假撚加工紗的橫剖面中將潛在捲縮紗的單纖維(以下有時稱為單纖維)的總數設為N的情況下,N×0.2根以上的潛在捲縮紗的單纖維鄰接相連的集合體,所謂潛在捲縮紗的鄰接長絲群組比率,是指在將構成鄰接長絲群組的潛在捲縮紗的單纖維的總數設為Ns的情況下由Ns/N×100(%)表示者。 (7) Adjacent filament group ratio of latent crimp yarn The so-called adjacent filament group mentioned in the present invention refers to the case where the total number of single fibers (hereinafter sometimes referred to as single fibers) of the latent crimp yarn in the cross section of the composite false-twisted yarn is set to N. , a collection of adjacent single fibers of N×0.2 or more potentially crimped yarns. The so-called adjacent filament group ratio of potentially crimped yarns refers to the single fibers of potentially crimped yarns that constitute adjacent filament groups. When the total number of fibers is set to Ns, it is represented by Ns/N×100 (%).

若使用圖2進行說明,則在複合假撚加工紗(11)的橫剖面中,潛在捲縮紗(聚醯胺纖維A)的單纖維(以下,設為潛在捲縮紗的單纖維)(12)的總數(N)為11根,鄰接長絲群組(13)中6根潛在捲縮紗的單纖維(12)鄰接相連,單纖維的根數滿足2.2根(11×0.2根)以上。此處,鄰接的單纖維(14)中,僅2根潛在捲縮紗的單纖維(12)鄰接相連,單纖維的根數不滿足2.2根(11×0.2根)以上,因此不為鄰接長絲群組。If explained using Figure 2, in the cross section of the composite false-twisted yarn (11), a single fiber of the latent crimp yarn (polyamide fiber A) (hereinafter, referred to as a single fiber of the latent crimp yarn) ( The total number (N) of 12) is 11, and the single fibers (12) of the 6 potentially crimped yarns in the adjacent filament group (13) are adjacent and connected, and the number of single fibers satisfies 2.2 or more (11×0.2) . Here, among the adjacent single fibers (14), only two single fibers (12) of the potentially crimped yarn are adjacently connected, and the number of single fibers does not satisfy more than 2.2 (11×0.2), so it is not an adjacent length. Silk group.

另外,所謂單纖維鄰接相連,是指如圖2的鄰接長絲群組(13)或鄰接的單纖維(14)般,在任意的單纖維與距離最近的同一單纖維之間,不存在聚醯胺纖維B的單纖維(15)等其他的單纖維。進而,在複合假撚加工紗的橫剖面中存在多個該鄰接長絲群組的情況下,構成該些的單纖維的總數成為構成鄰接長絲群組的單纖維的總數Ns。In addition, the so-called single fibers are adjacently connected means that there is no agglomeration between any single fiber and the nearest single fiber like the adjacent filament group (13) or the adjacent single fiber (14) in Figure 2. Amide fiber B single fiber (15) and other single fibers. Furthermore, when there are a plurality of adjacent filament groups in the cross section of the composite false-twisted yarn, the total number of single fibers constituting the adjacent filament groups becomes the total number Ns of single fibers constituting the adjacent filament groups.

構成鄰接長絲群組的潛在捲縮紗的單纖維的計數是基於如下圖像來實施:利用環氧樹脂等包埋劑將自染色加工後的編織/針織物中抽出的複合假撚加工紗包埋,以在其橫剖面中利用基恩士(Keyence)製造的VE-7800型掃描式電子顯微鏡(scanning electron microscope,SEM)可觀察到10根以上的單纖維的倍率,對所有的單纖維進行拍攝而得的圖像。在10處以上實施所述測定,將該計測結果的簡單數量平均值的小數點第一位四捨五入,設為所評價的紗束的潛在捲縮紗的鄰接長絲群組比率。The counting of single fibers constituting potentially crimped yarns of adjacent filament groups is carried out based on the following image: a composite false-twisted yarn extracted from a woven/knitted fabric after dyeing using an embedding agent such as epoxy resin Embedding, the magnification of more than 10 single fibers can be observed in its cross section using the VE-7800 scanning electron microscope (SEM) manufactured by Keyence, and all single fibers Images taken. The measurement was performed at 10 or more places, and the simple numerical average of the measurement results was rounded off to the first decimal place, and was used as the adjacent filament group ratio of the latent crimp yarn of the yarn bundle being evaluated.

再者,在試樣為複合假撚加工紗的情況下,在以下條件下製作染色加工後的編織物來用於評價。 ・經紗:56T-48F(N6延伸紗) ・緯紗:作為評價對象的複合假撚加工紗 ・組織:1/3斜紋(twill) ・坯布密度:經130根/吋(inch)、緯120根/吋 ※為緯紗100分特克斯的情況。在纖度不同的情況下,設計成覆蓋係數相同。 覆蓋係數=密度(根/吋)/√(纖度(分特克斯)×0.9) ・染色加工條件:精練(80℃、20分鐘、濕熱)→鬆弛處理(100℃、30分鐘、濕熱)→中間熱定型(180℃、1分鐘)→染色加工(黑色、100℃、60分鐘)→精加工熱定型(170℃、30秒)。 In addition, when the sample is a composite false-twisted yarn, a dyed knitted fabric is produced under the following conditions for evaluation. ・Warp yarn: 56T-48F (N6 extended yarn) ・Weft yarn: Composite false-twisted yarn to be evaluated ・Tissue: 1/3 twill ・Grey fabric density: warp 130 threads/inch (inch), weft 120 threads/inch ※This is the case when the weft yarn is 100 points tex. In the case of different fineness, the coverage coefficient is designed to be the same. Covering coefficient = density (root/inch)/√ (denier (dectex) × 0.9) ・Dyeing processing conditions: Scouring (80°C, 20 minutes, moist heat) → Relaxation treatment (100°C, 30 minutes, damp heat) → Intermediate heat setting (180°C, 1 minute) → Dyeing processing (black, 100°C, 60 minutes) →Finishing heat setting (170℃, 30 seconds).

(8)紗長度差 對常規方法的染色加工後的編織/針織物在20℃、65RH%的環境中進行24小時以上的調濕,自該編織/針織物中取出約5 cm長度的紗,以纖維自身不會伸長的方式格外小心地分解為一根根單紗。將分解後的單紗搭載於塗佈有甘油的刻度板上,在施加有0.11 cN/dtex的負荷的狀態下測定纖維長度,將纖維長度相對短的單紗群組的平均長度設為La,將纖維長度相對長的單紗群組的平均長度設為Lb,利用下式來算出。構成複合混纖纖維的所有單紗按照纖維長度而分類為任一單紗群組。進行20次試驗,將其平均值根據JIS Z 8401(2019)的規則B(四捨五入法)捨入至小數點後一位。再者,在試樣為複合假撚加工紗的情況下,與(7)項同樣地製作染色加工後的編織物來用於評價。 ・紗長度差(%)={(Lb-La)/La}×100。 (8) Yarn length difference The woven/knitted fabric dyed by the conventional method is subjected to humidity control for more than 24 hours in an environment of 20°C and 65RH%, and a yarn of about 5 cm in length is taken out from the woven/knitted fabric so that the fiber itself does not stretch. is broken down into individual yarns with great care. The decomposed single yarns were placed on a scale plate coated with glycerin, and the fiber length was measured with a load of 0.11 cN/dtex applied. The average length of the single yarn group with a relatively short fiber length was set to La. Let Lb be the average length of the single yarn group with a relatively long fiber length, and calculate it using the following equation. All single yarns constituting the composite mixed fiber are classified into any single yarn group according to fiber length. Conduct 20 tests and round the average value to one decimal place in accordance with Rule B (rounding method) of JIS Z 8401 (2019). In addition, when the sample is a composite false-twisted yarn, a dyed knitted fabric is produced and used for evaluation in the same manner as in item (7). ・Yarn length difference (%) ={(Lb-La)/La}×100.

(9)伸度差 對常規方法的染色加工後的編織/針織物在20℃、65RH%的環境中進行24小時以上的調濕,自該編織/針織物中取出約30 cm長度的紗,以纖維自身不會伸長的方式格外小心地分解為一根根單紗。依據JIS L 1013(2010)8.5.2標準時試驗所示的恆速伸長條件,利用滕喜龍(Tensilon)拉伸試驗機,以試樣長度20 cm、拉伸速度20 cm/min自初始負荷0.1 cN/dtex伸長至斷裂為止,根據最高負荷時的延伸率,求出每一根單紗的伸度。將伸度相對低的單紗群組的平均伸度設為Sa,將伸度相對高的單紗群組的平均伸度設為Sb,利用下式來算出。構成複合混纖纖維的所有單紗按照伸度而分類為任一單紗群組。進行20次試驗,將其平均值根據JIS Z 8401(2019)的規則B(四捨五入法)捨入至小數點後一位。再者,在試樣為複合假撚加工紗的情況下,與(7)項同樣地製作染色加工後的編織物來用於評價。 ・伸度差(%)=Sb-Sa。 (9) Difference in elongation The woven/knitted fabric dyed by the conventional method is subjected to humidity control for more than 24 hours in an environment of 20°C and 65RH%, and a yarn of about 30 cm in length is taken out from the woven/knitted fabric so that the fiber itself does not stretch. is broken down into individual yarns with great care. According to the constant speed elongation conditions shown in the test according to the JIS L 1013 (2010) 8.5.2 standard, a Tensilon tensile testing machine was used to test the specimen with a sample length of 20 cm and a tensile speed of 20 cm/min starting from the initial load of 0.1 cN. /dtex is stretched until it breaks, and the elongation of each single yarn is calculated based on the elongation at the highest load. Let the average elongation of the single yarn group with relatively low elongation be Sa, and let the average elongation of the single yarn group with relatively high elongation be Sb, and be calculated by the following equation. All single yarns constituting the composite mixed fiber are classified into any single yarn group according to elongation. Conduct 20 tests and round the average value to one decimal place in accordance with Rule B (rounding method) of JIS Z 8401 (2019). In addition, when the sample is a composite false-twisted yarn, a dyed knitted fabric is produced and used for evaluation in the same manner as in item (7). ・Difference in elongation (%)=Sb-Sa.

(10)單紗纖度 除了將試樣長度設為10 cm以外,依據JIS L 1013 8.3B法(2010)。 (10)Single yarn fineness Except that the sample length is set to 10 cm, it is based on JIS L 1013 8.3B method (2010).

(11)伸長率 依據JIS L 1096 8.16(2010)。關於編織物,依據B法(編織物的恆定負荷法),根據以夾持間隔500 mm、負荷14.7 N保持1分鐘後的長度算出伸長率。另外,關於針織物,藉由依據D法(針織物的恆定負荷法)的抓樣法,根據以拉伸速度100 mm/min拉伸至14.7 N並保持1分鐘後的長度算出伸長率。 (11) Elongation According to JIS L 1096 8.16 (2010). Regarding the braided fabric, according to method B (constant load method for braided fabrics), the elongation rate was calculated from the length after holding for 1 minute at a clamping interval of 500 mm and a load of 14.7 N. In addition, regarding the knitted fabric, the elongation was calculated based on the length after stretching to 14.7 N at a stretching speed of 100 mm/min and holding for 1 minute by the grab method based on the D method (constant load method for knitted fabrics).

(12)操作性 對於實施例及比較例的複合假撚加工紗或複合混纖紗,根據108紗錠、每24小時的斷紗次數來判定操作性。按照以下5個階段進行評價,將評價分的平均值的小數點一位四捨五入。將3分以上設為操作性良好。 5分:小於3次 4分:3次以上且小於5次 3分:5次以上且小於7次 2分:7次以上且小於10次 1分:10次以上。 (12) Operability The operability of the composite false-twisted yarn or composite mixed fiber yarn of the Examples and Comparative Examples was determined based on the number of yarn breaks per 24 hours with 108 spindles. Evaluation is conducted according to the following five stages, and the average of the evaluation scores is rounded to one decimal place. A score of 3 or more points was considered good operability. 5 points: less than 3 times 4 points: more than 3 times and less than 5 times 3 points: more than 5 times and less than 7 times 2 points: more than 7 times and less than 10 times 1 point: more than 10 times.

(13)均染性 藉由熟練技術人員(5名)的目視,針對編織/針織物的均染性,按照以下5個階段進行評價,將各技術人員的評價分的平均值的小數點一位四捨五入。將3分以上設為均染性良。再者,在試樣為複合假撚加工紗的情況下,與(7)項同樣地製作染色加工後的編織物來用於評價。 5分:非常優異 4分:優異 3分:稍優異 2分:稍差 1分:差。 (13) Even dyeing Through the visual inspection of skilled technicians (5 people), the level dyeing properties of woven/knitted fabrics are evaluated according to the following five stages, and the average value of each technician's evaluation score is rounded to one decimal place. A score of 3 or more was regarded as good uniformity. In addition, when the sample is a composite false-twisted yarn, a dyed knitted fabric is produced and used for evaluation in the same manner as in item (7). 5 points: very good 4 points: excellent 3 points: Slightly excellent 2 points: slightly worse 1 point: Poor.

(14)柔軟性 藉由熟練技術人員(5名)的觸感,針對編織/針織物的柔軟性,按照以下5個階段進行評價,將各技術人員的評價分的平均值的小數點一位四捨五入。將3分以上設為柔軟性良。再者,在試樣為複合假撚加工紗的情況下,與(7)項同樣地製作染色加工後的編織物來用於評價。 5分:非常優異 4分:優異 3分:稍優異 2分:稍差 1分:差。 (14) Softness The softness of knitted/knitted fabrics is evaluated according to the following 5 levels through the touch of skilled technicians (5 people), and the average of the evaluation scores of each technician is rounded to one decimal place. A score of 3 or more was considered to have good softness. In addition, when the sample is a composite false-twisted yarn, a dyed knitted fabric is produced and used for evaluation in the same manner as in item (7). 5 points: very good 4 points: excellent 3 points: Slightly excellent 2 points: slightly worse 1 point: Poor.

(15)蓬鬆性 藉由熟練技術人員(5名)的觸感,針對編織/針織物的膨脹度,按照以下5個階段進行評價,將各技術人員的評價分的平均值的小數點一位四捨五入。將3分以上設為膨脹度良。再者,在試樣為複合假撚加工紗的情況下,與(7)項同樣地製作染色加工後的編織物來用於評價。 5分:非常優異 4分:優異 3分:稍優異 2分:稍差 1分:差。 [實施例1] (15) Fluffiness The swelling degree of knitted/knitted fabrics was evaluated according to the following five stages through the touch of skilled technicians (5 people), and the average of the evaluation scores of each technician was rounded to one decimal place. A score of 3 points or more was regarded as a good degree of expansion. In addition, when the sample is a composite false-twisted yarn, a dyed knitted fabric is produced and used for evaluation in the same manner as in item (7). 5 points: very good 4 points: excellent 3 points: Slightly excellent 2 points: slightly worse 1 point: Poor. [Example 1]

作為聚醯胺纖維A(以下有時稱為「纖維A」),將樹脂(1):尼龍6(相對黏度3.32)與樹脂(2):尼龍610(相對黏度2.71)分別熔融,使用偏心芯鞘型複合纖維用紡紗嘴(24孔、圓孔),將樹脂(1):尼龍6(相對黏度3.32)配置於芯中,且使樹脂(2):尼龍610(相對黏度2.71)成為鞘的樹脂,以尼龍6(相對黏度3.32)與尼龍610(相對黏度2.71)的複合比率(質量比)5:5進行熔融噴出(紡紗溫度270℃)。對於自紡嘴噴出的紗條,利用紗條冷卻裝置將紗條冷卻固化,利用供油裝置進行含水油劑的供油後,利用流體交織噴嘴裝置賦予交織,然後利用牽引輥(室溫25℃)以3700 m/min進行牽引,在延伸輥(室溫25℃)間以1.1倍進行延伸後,以捲繞速度4000 m/min捲繞成捲裝,獲得捲繞總纖度70分特克斯、長絲數24根、伸度60%的聚醯胺潛在捲縮紗(聚醯胺纖維A)。As polyamide fiber A (hereinafter sometimes referred to as "fiber A"), resin (1): nylon 6 (relative viscosity 3.32) and resin (2): nylon 610 (relative viscosity 2.71) are melted separately, and an eccentric core is used Sheath type composite fiber spinning nozzle (24 holes, round hole), resin (1): nylon 6 (relative viscosity 3.32) is arranged in the core, and resin (2): nylon 610 (relative viscosity 2.71) is made into a sheath The resin is melt-sprayed at a composite ratio (mass ratio) of 5:5 of nylon 6 (relative viscosity 3.32) and nylon 610 (relative viscosity 2.71) (spinning temperature 270°C). For the yarn ejected from the spinning nozzle, the yarn cooling device is used to cool and solidify the yarn, and the oil supply device is used to supply the water-containing oil agent, and the fluid interweaving nozzle device is used to impart interweaving, and then the traction roller (room temperature 25°C ) is pulled at 3700 m/min, stretched between stretching rollers (room temperature 25°C) at 1.1 times, and then wound into a package at a winding speed of 4000 m/min to obtain a total winding fineness of 70 decitex , polyamide latent crimp yarn (polyamide fiber A) with 24 filaments and 60% elongation.

另外,作為聚醯胺纖維B(以下有時稱為「纖維B」),將尼龍6(相對黏度2.63)熔融,使用68孔、圓孔的紡嘴進行熔融噴出(紡紗溫度270℃)。自紡嘴噴出的紗條與纖維A同樣地捲繞成捲裝,獲得總纖度44分特克斯、長絲數68根、伸度60%的聚醯胺纖維B。In addition, as the polyamide fiber B (hereinafter sometimes referred to as "fiber B"), nylon 6 (relative viscosity 2.63) was melted and melt-blasted using a 68-hole, round-hole spinning nozzle (spinning temperature: 270°C). The yarn sliver ejected from the spinning nozzle was wound into a package in the same manner as fiber A, and a polyamide fiber B with a total fineness of 44 decitex, a number of filaments of 68, and an elongation of 60% was obtained.

對所獲得的纖維A及纖維B,利用圖1所示的撚紗機為帶夾型的假撚機,以加熱器溫度170℃、假撚時的撚係數K=31000、纖維A的延伸倍率1.250、纖維B的延伸倍率1.100、流體處理噴嘴(交織噴嘴)在交織壓力0.2 MPa下實施複合假撚加工,獲得總纖度100分特克斯、長絲數92根的複合假撚加工紗。For the obtained fiber A and fiber B, the twisting machine shown in Figure 1 is a belt-clamp type false twisting machine, and the heater temperature is 170°C, the twist coefficient during false twisting K=31000, and the elongation ratio of fiber A. 1.250, the elongation ratio of fiber B is 1.100, the fluid treatment nozzle (interweaving nozzle) performs composite false twist processing at an interweaving pressure of 0.2 MPa, and a composite false twist processed yarn with a total fineness of 100 decitex and a number of filaments of 92 is obtained.

使用所述複合假撚加工紗製作雙羅紋組織,藉由液流精練-液流染色進行精練與染色加工,對染色加工前後的布料乾熱定型(中間熱定型及精加工熱定型)進行適宜調整,獲得伸縮性、蓬鬆性、柔軟性優異的針織物。將複合假撚加工紗及針織物的特性示於表1。The composite false-twisted yarn is used to make a double rib structure, and the scouring and dyeing processes are carried out through liquid flow scouring and liquid flow dyeing. The dry heat setting (intermediate heat setting and finishing heat setting) of the fabric before and after the dyeing process is appropriately adjusted. , to obtain knitted fabrics with excellent stretchability, bulkiness and softness. Table 1 shows the characteristics of the composite false-twisted yarn and knitted fabric.

[實施例2] 將實施例1的複合假撚加工紗用於經紗及緯紗來製作平紋雙面組織,並與實施例1同樣地進行染色加工,獲得伸縮性、蓬鬆性、柔軟性優異的編織物。將複合假撚加工紗及編織物的特性示於表1。 [Example 2] The composite false-twisted yarn of Example 1 was used for the warp and weft yarns to produce a plain double-sided structure, and the dyeing process was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric excellent in stretchability, bulkiness, and softness. Table 1 shows the characteristics of the composite false-twisted yarn and knitted fabric.

[實施例3] 除了將聚醯胺潛在捲縮紗(聚醯胺纖維A)的樹脂(2)設為尼龍6(相對黏度2.63)以外,藉由與實施例1相同的方法,獲得伸縮性、蓬鬆性、柔軟性優異的針織物。將複合假撚加工紗及針織物的特性示於表1。 [Example 3] Stretchability, bulkiness, and softness were obtained by the same method as in Example 1, except that the resin (2) of the polyamide latent crimp yarn (polyamide fiber A) was nylon 6 (relative viscosity 2.63). Excellent knitted fabric. Table 1 shows the characteristics of the composite false-twisted yarn and knitted fabric.

[實施例4] 除了將複合假撚加工時的聚醯胺纖維B的延伸倍率設為1.230以外,藉由與實施例1相同的方法,獲得伸縮性、蓬鬆性、柔軟性優異的針織物。將複合假撚加工紗及針織物的特性示於表1。 [Example 4] A knitted fabric excellent in stretchability, bulkiness, and softness was obtained by the same method as in Example 1, except that the stretch ratio of the polyamide fiber B during the composite false twist processing was set to 1.230. Table 1 shows the characteristics of the composite false-twisted yarn and knitted fabric.

[實施例5] 除了將複合假撚加工時的聚醯胺纖維B的延伸倍率設為1.000以外,藉由與實施例1相同的方法,獲得伸縮性、蓬鬆性、柔軟性優異的針織物。將複合假撚加工紗及針織物的特性示於表1。 [Example 5] A knitted fabric excellent in stretchability, bulkiness, and softness was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the stretch ratio of the polyamide fiber B during the composite false twist processing was set to 1.000. Table 1 shows the characteristics of the composite false-twisted yarn and knitted fabric.

[實施例6] 除了提高熔融紡紗時的聚醯胺纖維B的延伸倍率而設為伸度40%以外,藉由與實施例5相同的方法,獲得伸縮性、蓬鬆性、柔軟性優異的針織物。將複合假撚加工紗及針織物的特性示於表1。 [Example 6] A knitted fabric excellent in stretchability, bulkiness, and softness was obtained in the same manner as in Example 5, except that the draw ratio of the polyamide fiber B during melt spinning was increased to 40%. Table 1 shows the characteristics of the composite false-twisted yarn and knitted fabric.

[實施例7] 除了將熔融紡紗時的聚醯胺纖維B的紡嘴設為36孔以外,藉由與實施例1相同的方法,獲得伸縮性、蓬鬆性、柔軟性優異的針織物。將複合假撚加工紗及針織物的特性示於表1。 [Example 7] A knitted fabric excellent in stretchability, bulkiness, and softness was obtained by the same method as in Example 1, except that the spinning nozzle of the polyamide fiber B during melt spinning was set to 36 holes. Table 1 shows the characteristics of the composite false-twisted yarn and knitted fabric.

[比較例1] 除了使用聚醯胺潛在捲縮紗(聚醯胺纖維A)代替聚醯胺纖維B、並將假撚時的延伸倍率設為1.250以外,藉由與實施例1相同的方法獲得針織物。所獲得的製品雖然伸長性優異,但蓬鬆性或膨脹度差。將複合假撚加工紗及針織物的特性示於表2。 [Comparative example 1] A knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that polyamide latent crimp yarn (polyamide fiber A) was used instead of polyamide fiber B, and the stretch ratio during false twisting was set to 1.250. Although the obtained product was excellent in extensibility, it was poor in bulkiness or expansion. Table 2 shows the characteristics of the composite false-twisted yarn and knitted fabric.

[比較例2] 在加熱器溫度170℃下,以延伸倍率1.250對實施例1中記載的聚醯胺潛在捲縮紗(聚醯胺纖維A)進行延伸,以延伸倍率1.100對聚醯胺纖維B進行延伸。將所獲得的延伸紗以聚醯胺纖維B相對於聚醯胺潛在捲縮紗(聚醯胺纖維A)的過量進給率11.0%導入流體處理噴嘴中,獲得實施了流體湍流加工的複合混纖加工紗。對於所獲得的複合混纖加工紗,與實施例1同樣地進行針織、染色加工。所獲得的針織物中,潛在捲縮紗的鄰接長絲群組比率低,因此未充分表現出捲縮,伸長性、蓬鬆性、柔軟性差。將複合混纖加工紗及針織物的特性示於表2。 [Comparative example 2] The polyamide latent crimp yarn (polyamide fiber A) described in Example 1 was stretched at a heater temperature of 170° C. at a stretching ratio of 1.250, and the polyamide fiber B was stretched at a stretching ratio of 1.100. The obtained stretched yarn was introduced into a fluid treatment nozzle at an overfeed rate of 11.0% for the polyamide fiber B relative to the polyamide latent crimp yarn (polyamide fiber A), to obtain a composite mixture subjected to fluid turbulence processing. Fiber processing yarn. The obtained composite mixed fiber processed yarn was knitted and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1. In the obtained knitted fabric, the adjacent filament group ratio of the latent crimp yarn was low, so crimp was not fully expressed, and the extensibility, bulkiness, and softness were poor. The characteristics of composite mixed fiber processed yarn and knitted fabric are shown in Table 2.

[比較例3] 將極限黏度為1.31的聚對苯二甲酸三亞甲基酯與極限黏度為0.52的聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯分別獨立地熔融,在紡紗溫度260℃下,自24孔的偏心芯鞘型複合纖維用紡紗嘴(24孔、圓孔)以聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯/聚對苯二甲酸三亞甲基酯的重量比率成為50/50的方式噴出,並以紡紗速度1400 m/min進行牽引,獲得總纖度165分特克斯、長絲數24根的未延伸紗。進而,使用熱輥-熱板系延伸機,以熱輥溫度70℃、熱板溫度145℃、延伸倍率3.0進行延伸,獲得總纖度56分特克斯、長絲數24根、伸度40%的聚酯潛在捲縮紗。 [Comparative example 3] Polytrimethylene terephthalate with an ultimate viscosity of 1.31 and polyethylene terephthalate with an ultimate viscosity of 0.52 were melted independently, and at a spinning temperature of 260°C, from a 24-hole eccentric core-sheath type The composite fiber spinning nozzle (24 holes, round hole) is ejected so that the weight ratio of polyethylene terephthalate/polytrimethylene terephthalate becomes 50/50, and the spinning speed is 1400 m /min to obtain an unextended yarn with a total fineness of 165 decitex and a filament count of 24. Furthermore, a hot roller-hot plate stretching machine was used to stretch with a hot roller temperature of 70°C, a hot plate temperature of 145°C, and a draw ratio of 3.0 to obtain a total fineness of 56 decitex, a number of filaments of 24, and an elongation of 40%. Polyester latent crimp yarn.

除了將纖維A設為所述聚酯潛在捲縮紗、並將複合假撚加工中的纖維A的延伸倍率設為1.100以外,與實施例1同樣地進行針織、染色加工。所獲得的針織物使用了聚醯胺與聚酯這樣的不同的原材料,因此難以穩定地製造複合假撚加工紗,伸長性或均染性差。將複合假撚加工紗及針織物的特性示於表2。由於對極限黏度而非相對黏度進行了測定,因此相對黏度、黏度比的項設為「-」。比較例4亦同樣如此。Knitting and dyeing were performed in the same manner as in Example 1, except that fiber A was the polyester latent crimp yarn and the stretch ratio of fiber A in the composite false twist processing was 1.100. The obtained knitted fabric uses different raw materials such as polyamide and polyester, so it is difficult to stably produce a composite false-twisted yarn and has poor extensibility or level dyeing properties. Table 2 shows the characteristics of the composite false-twisted yarn and knitted fabric. Since the ultimate viscosity is measured instead of the relative viscosity, the terms of relative viscosity and viscosity ratio are set to "-". The same is true for Comparative Example 4.

[比較例4] 將極限黏度為0.65的聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯熔融,使用68孔、圓孔的紡嘴進行熔融噴出(紡紗溫度285℃)。對於自紡嘴噴出紗條,利用紗條冷卻裝置將紗條冷卻固化,並利用供油裝置進行油劑的供油後,利用流體交織噴嘴裝置賦予交織,然後利用牽引輥(室溫25℃)以2300 m/min進行牽引,以捲繞速度2300 m/min捲繞成捲裝,獲得總纖度84分特克斯、長絲數96根、伸度130%的部分配向聚酯纖維。 [Comparative example 4] Polyethylene terephthalate with an ultimate viscosity of 0.65 is melted, and a 68-hole, round-hole spinning nozzle is used for melt ejection (spinning temperature: 285°C). For the yarn ejected from the spinning nozzle, the yarn cooling device is used to cool and solidify the yarn, and the oil supply device is used to supply oil, and the fluid interweaving nozzle device is used to impart interweaving, and then the traction roller (room temperature 25°C) is used It was pulled at 2300 m/min and wound into a package at a winding speed of 2300 m/min to obtain a partially oriented polyester fiber with a total fineness of 84 decitex, a number of filaments of 96, and an elongation of 130%.

除了將纖維B設為所述部分配向聚酯纖維以外,與比較例3同樣地進行針織、染色加工。所獲得的針織物包含剛性高的聚酯,因此柔軟性差。將複合假撚加工紗及針織物的特性示於表2。Knitting and dyeing were performed in the same manner as in Comparative Example 3 except that fiber B was the partially aligned polyester fiber. The resulting knitted fabric contains polyester with high rigidity and therefore has poor softness. Table 2 shows the characteristics of the composite false-twisted yarn and knitted fabric.

[表1] [表1] 實施例1 實施例2 實施例3 實施例4 實施例5 實施例6 實施例7 原紗 纖維A 品種 70T-24F 70T-24F 70T-24F 70T-24F 70T-24F 70T-24F 70T-24F 剖面 偏心芯鞘 偏心芯鞘 偏心芯鞘 偏心芯鞘 偏心芯鞘 偏心芯鞘 偏心芯鞘 樹脂 (1) 組成 尼龍6 尼龍6 尼龍6 尼龍6 尼龍6 尼龍6 尼龍6 相對黏度 3.32 3.32 3.32 3.32 3.32 3.32 3.32 水分含有率 7.80% 7.80% 7.80% 7.80% 7.80% 7.80% 7.80% 樹脂 (2) 組成 尼龍610 尼龍610 尼龍6 尼龍610 尼龍610 尼龍610 尼龍610 相對黏度 2.71 2.71 2.63 2.71 2.71 2.71 2.71 水分含有率 3.30% 3.30% 7.80% 3.30% 3.30% 3.30% 3.30% 黏度比 1.23 1.23 1.26 1.23 1.23 1.23 1.23 平衡回潮率 5.7% 5.7% 7.7% 5.7% 5.7% 5.7% 5.7% 纖維B 品種 44T-68F 44T-68F 44T-68F 44T-68F 44T-68F 44T-68F 44T-36F 組成 尼龍6 尼龍6 尼龍6 尼龍6 尼龍6 尼龍6 尼龍6 伸度(%) 60 60 60 60 60 40 60 加工條件 纖維A 延伸倍率 1.250 1.250 1.250 1.250 1.250 1.250 1.250 纖維B 延伸倍率 1.100 1.100 1.100 1.230 1.000 1.000 1.100 複合 加工紗 複合加工方法 假撚 假撚 假撚 假撚 假撚 假撚 假撚 CR(%) 30.7 30.7 24.0 30.5 30.8 30.5 30.4 布帛設計 組織 雙羅紋 雙面織 雙羅紋 雙羅紋 雙羅紋 雙羅紋 雙羅紋 特性 紗長度差(%) 10.7 10.7 10.5 5.0 22.0 20.0 11.0 潛在捲縮紗的 鄰接長絲群組比率(%) 80 80 80 65 83 70 81 伸度差(%) 11.4 11.4 11.4 5.0 23.0 2.0 11.7 單紗纖度 (分特克斯) 纖維A 2.33 2.33 2.33 2.33 2.33 2.33 2.33 纖維B 0.59 0.59 0.59 0.53 0.65 0.65 1.11 伸長率(%) 55 22 37 56 54 56 56 119 26 60 120 119 120 115 操作性 5 5 5 5 3-4 4 5 均染性 5 5 5 3 4-5 3 4-5 柔軟性 5 5 4 4 5 4 3 蓬鬆性 5 5 4 3 5 4 4 [Table 1] [Table 1] Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Example 6 Example 7 Original yarn Fiber A Variety 70T-24F 70T-24F 70T-24F 70T-24F 70T-24F 70T-24F 70T-24F profile Eccentric core sheath Eccentric core sheath Eccentric core sheath Eccentric core sheath Eccentric core sheath Eccentric core sheath Eccentric core sheath Resin (1) composition Nylon 6 Nylon 6 Nylon 6 Nylon 6 Nylon 6 Nylon 6 Nylon 6 relative viscosity 3.32 3.32 3.32 3.32 3.32 3.32 3.32 Moisture content 7.80% 7.80% 7.80% 7.80% 7.80% 7.80% 7.80% Resin(2) composition Nylon 610 Nylon 610 Nylon 6 Nylon 610 Nylon 610 Nylon 610 Nylon 610 relative viscosity 2.71 2.71 2.63 2.71 2.71 2.71 2.71 Moisture content 3.30% 3.30% 7.80% 3.30% 3.30% 3.30% 3.30% Viscosity ratio 1.23 1.23 1.26 1.23 1.23 1.23 1.23 equilibrium moisture regain 5.7% 5.7% 7.7% 5.7% 5.7% 5.7% 5.7% Fiber B Variety 44T-68F 44T-68F 44T-68F 44T-68F 44T-68F 44T-68F 44T-36F composition Nylon 6 Nylon 6 Nylon 6 Nylon 6 Nylon 6 Nylon 6 Nylon 6 Elongation (%) 60 60 60 60 60 40 60 Processing conditions Fiber A Extension ratio 1.250 1.250 1.250 1.250 1.250 1.250 1.250 Fiber B Extension ratio 1.100 1.100 1.100 1.230 1.000 1.000 1.100 Composite processing yarn Composite processing method false twist false twist false twist false twist false twist false twist false twist CR(%) 30.7 30.7 24.0 30.5 30.8 30.5 30.4 fabric design organization double rib Double sided weave double rib double rib double rib double rib double rib characteristic Yarn length difference (%) 10.7 10.7 10.5 5.0 22.0 20.0 11.0 Adjacent filament group ratio of latent crimp yarn (%) 80 80 80 65 83 70 81 Elongation difference (%) 11.4 11.4 11.4 5.0 23.0 2.0 11.7 Single yarn fineness (dectex) Fiber A 2.33 2.33 2.33 2.33 2.33 2.33 2.33 Fiber B 0.59 0.59 0.59 0.53 0.65 0.65 1.11 Elongation (%) vertical 55 twenty two 37 56 54 56 56 horizontal 119 26 60 120 119 120 115 operability 5 5 5 5 3-4 4 5 Even dyeing 5 5 5 3 4-5 3 4-5 Softness 5 5 4 4 5 4 3 Fluffiness 5 5 4 3 5 4 4

[表2] [表2] 比較例1 比較例2 比較例3 比較例4 原紗 纖維A 品種 70T-24F 70T-24F 70T-24F 70T-24F 剖面 偏心芯鞘 偏心芯鞘 偏心芯鞘 偏心芯鞘 樹脂 (1) 組成 尼龍6 尼龍6 PPT PPT 相對黏度 3.32 3.32 - - 水分含有率 7.80% 7.80% 0.40% 0.40% 樹脂 (2) 組成 尼龍610 尼龍610 PET PET 相對黏度 2.71 2.71 - - 水分含有率 3.30% 3.30% 0.40% 0.40% 黏度比 1.23 1.23 - - 平衡回潮率 5.7% 5.7% 0.4% 0.4% 纖維B 品種 44T-68F 44T-68F 84T-96F 組成 尼龍6 尼龍6 PET 伸度(%) 60 60 130 加工條件 纖維A 延伸倍率 1.250 1.250 1.100 1.100 纖維B 延伸倍率 1.250 1.100 1.100 1.100 複合 加工紗 複合加工方法 假撚 混纖 假撚 假撚 CR(%) 33.3 20.9 25.7 30.7 布帛設計 組織 雙羅紋 雙羅紋 雙羅紋 雙羅紋 特性 紗長度差(%) 0.0 11.0 15.0 20.0 潛在捲縮紗的 鄰接長絲群組比率(%) 100 20 80 77 伸度差(%) 0.0 12.0 18.0 60.0 單紗纖度 (分特克斯) 纖維A 2.33 2.33 2.65 2.65 纖維B 2.33 0.65 0.65 0.80 伸長率(%) 60 30 33 36 125 78 68 75 操作性 5 5 3 3 均染性 5 4 1 3 柔軟性 2 2 3 2 蓬鬆性 2 2 3 3 [Table 2] [Table 2] Comparative example 1 Comparative example 2 Comparative example 3 Comparative example 4 Original yarn Fiber A Variety 70T-24F 70T-24F 70T-24F 70T-24F profile Eccentric core sheath Eccentric core sheath Eccentric core sheath Eccentric core sheath Resin (1) composition Nylon 6 Nylon 6 PPT PPT relative viscosity 3.32 3.32 - - Moisture content 7.80% 7.80% 0.40% 0.40% Resin (2) composition Nylon 610 Nylon 610 PET PET relative viscosity 2.71 2.71 - - Moisture content 3.30% 3.30% 0.40% 0.40% Viscosity ratio 1.23 1.23 - - equilibrium moisture regain 5.7% 5.7% 0.4% 0.4% Fiber B Variety 44T-68F 44T-68F 84T-96F composition Nylon 6 Nylon 6 PET Elongation (%) 60 60 130 Processing conditions Fiber A Extension ratio 1.250 1.250 1.100 1.100 Fiber B Extension ratio 1.250 1.100 1.100 1.100 Composite processing yarn Composite processing method false twist Mixed fiber false twist false twist CR (%) 33.3 20.9 25.7 30.7 fabric design organization double rib double rib double rib double rib characteristic Yarn length difference (%) 0.0 11.0 15.0 20.0 Adjacent filament group ratio of latent crimp yarn (%) 100 20 80 77 Elongation difference (%) 0.0 12.0 18.0 60.0 Single yarn fineness (dectex) Fiber A 2.33 2.33 2.65 2.65 Fiber B 2.33 0.65 0.65 0.80 Elongation (%) vertical 60 30 33 36 horizontal 125 78 68 75 operability 5 5 3 3 Even dyeing 5 4 1 3 Softness 2 2 3 2 Fluffiness 2 2 3 3

A:聚醯胺纖維A B:聚醯胺纖維B 1:第一進給輥 2:第二進給輥 3:引導件 4:加熱器 5:冷卻板 6:撚紗機 7:第三進給輥 8:流體處理噴嘴 9:第四進給輥 10:捲取機 11:複合假撚加工紗 12:潛在捲縮紗(聚醯胺纖維A)的單纖維 13:鄰接長絲群組 14:鄰接的單纖維 15:聚醯胺纖維B的單纖維 A:Polyamide fiber A B:Polyamide fiber B 1: First feed roller 2: Second feed roller 3: Guide 4: Heater 5:Cooling plate 6:Twisting machine 7:Third feed roller 8: Fluid handling nozzle 9:Fourth feed roller 10: Coiler 11: Composite false twist processed yarn 12: Single fiber of latent crimp yarn (polyamide fiber A) 13: Adjacent filament group 14: Adjacent single fibers 15: Single fiber of polyamide fiber B

圖1是本發明的複合假撚加工紗的製造製程的概略圖。 圖2是本發明的複合假撚加工紗的纖維橫剖面的概略圖的一例。 Fig. 1 is a schematic diagram of the manufacturing process of the composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention. FIG. 2 is an example of a schematic cross-sectional view of the fiber cross section of the composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention.

11:複合假撚加工紗 11: Composite false twist processed yarn

12:潛在捲縮紗(聚醯胺纖維A)的單纖維 12: Single fiber of latent crimp yarn (polyamide fiber A)

13:鄰接長絲群組 13: Adjacent filament group

14:鄰接的單纖維 14: Adjacent single fibers

15:聚醯胺纖維B的單纖維 15: Single fiber of polyamide fiber B

Claims (7)

一種複合假撚加工紗,包含聚醯胺纖維A及聚醯胺纖維B,所述聚醯胺纖維A為潛在捲縮紗,所述聚醯胺纖維B不為潛在捲縮紗,所述聚醯胺纖維A的鄰接長絲群組比率為50%以上。A composite false-twisted yarn, including polyamide fiber A and polyamide fiber B. The polyamide fiber A is a latent crimp yarn, the polyamide fiber B is not a latent crimp yarn, and the polyamide fiber B is not a latent crimp yarn. The adjacent filament group ratio of the amide fiber A is 50% or more. 如請求項1所述的複合假撚加工紗,其中,所述聚醯胺纖維A與所述聚醯胺纖維B的伸度差為7.0%以上且40.0%以下。The composite false-twisted yarn according to claim 1, wherein the elongation difference between the polyamide fiber A and the polyamide fiber B is 7.0% or more and 40.0% or less. 如請求項1所述的複合假撚加工紗,其中,所述聚醯胺纖維B的單紗纖度為0.3分特克斯以上且0.9分特克斯以下。The composite false-twisted yarn according to claim 1, wherein the single yarn fineness of the polyamide fiber B is 0.3 decitex or more and 0.9 decitex or less. 如請求項1所述的複合假撚加工紗,其中,所述聚醯胺纖維A為平衡回潮率6.3%以下的偏心芯鞘型複合纖維,構成芯成分的聚醯胺與構成鞘成分的聚醯胺的黏度比為1.20以上且1.40以下。The composite false-twisted yarn according to claim 1, wherein the polyamide fiber A is an eccentric core-sheath type composite fiber with an equilibrium moisture regain of 6.3% or less, and the polyamide constituting the core component and the polyamide constituting the sheath component The viscosity ratio of amide is 1.20 or more and 1.40 or less. 一種編織/針織物,在至少一部分包含表現出捲縮的如請求項1至4中任一項所述的複合假撚加工紗。A woven/knitted fabric containing at least a part of the composite false-twisted yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4 showing crimp. 一種衣服,在至少一部分包含表現出捲縮的如請求項1至4中任一項所述的複合假撚加工紗。Clothing including at least a part of the composite false-twisted yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4 that exhibits crimp. 一種衣服,在至少一部分包含如請求項5所述的編織/針織物。A garment comprising, at least in part, the woven/knitted fabric of claim 5.
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