201000145 » 六、發明說明： 【發明所屬之技術領域】 本發明係關於一種改良的調理組合物。 【先前技術】 儘管存在先前技術’仍需要改良的調理組合物。 【發明内容】 因此，提供一種頭髮調理組合物，其包含經疏水性修飾 的陰離子聚合物。 & 該經疏水性修飾的陰離子聚合物提供更佳清洗性質❹當 組合物係調理膜組合物時尤其如此。 該聚合物較佳係丙烯酸酯或甲基丙烯酸酯聚合物。 疏水性修飾較佳包含烧基化作用。 烷基較佳包含6至30個碳，更佳16至28個碳且最佳18至 24個碳。 杈佳聚合物係由Rohm & Hass出售，商品名為Aculyn。 > 其最佳為Aculyn28TM〇 該聚合物係以0·01至5重量％且更佳〇 〇5至1重量％存在。 根據任何先前請求之組合物較佳包含一種結構劑。該結 構劑改善產品在使用者手中的感覺。 用；、、’σ構化」根據本發明組合物之結構劑可為天然或 合成的結晶蠟。礦物質、動物或植物蠟均稱為天然蠟。合 成蠟為彼等由原料或經化學修飾的天然蠟所合成之聚合 蠟。 ’例如石蠟及微晶 可使用的天然結晶蠟為基於石油的蠟 140349.doc 201000145 壤微明蝶（MC)與石犧化學上非常相似係由長飽和煙鍵 、-且成兩種類型的蟻係從原油中分離得到’且Μ。蝶通常 具有較高分子量。石蠟係在提煉過程中，藉由冷卻及過 渡’從原油的高彿點㈣中提取。在去除蝶中殘留油分之 發汗製程之後’所得石環通常具有少於0.5%的油分。 有許夕種主要在於熔點不同之等級可以利用。石蠟一般 係無色或白色且透明的。石蠟主要由具有少量支鏈分子且 主要在鍵末端附近分支之直鏈分子組成。由於長直鍵，石 蠟具有良好形式的大晶體。石蠟之分子量-般在360至420 之間（26至30個碳原子），儘管可得到具有更長鍵的類型（分 子量高達600)…溶點通常為126134卞（me )，高分子 量類型具有接近17奸（77。〇之魅。石㈣碎且添加油會 弱化結構（降低拉伸強度）。 微晶堪（MC)與石蠛在物理性質、鍵結構及長度、及製造 方法上不同。其比石壤更杨性，更有撓性且具有更高的 拉伸強度及溶點》MC蟻對油具有高親和性，當添加其 時，可增加壤塑性。MC壤蒸館時無法避免分解，因此藉 由涉及在有機溶劑中再結晶及離心之㈣製程，將其從原 油的殘留蒸餘餾分中分離。油含量隨等級變化，但通常係 約⑽咖^蝶主要在沿著具有—些直鍵之鏈上包含 隨機分布的支鏈分子。熔點通常為145 195卞（63_91。〇。 高穿透值表示蠟的撓性，但撓性不隨熔點變化。 亦存在其它礦㈣，例如蒙旦壤、褐㈣、地壤、純地 蠟、猶他蠟及泥煤蠟。 140349.doc 201000145 動物蠟可自諸如蜜蜂、昆蟲或鯨之物得到。此等蠟包括 但不限於蜂蠟，蟲蠟、蟲膠蠟、鯨蠟及羊毛蠟。舉例而 言，歸類為動物堪之蜂堪係由蜜蜂分泌用於構造蜂巢。該 蠟係藉由熔化蜂巢及濾出蠟而收集。蜂蠟具有約61-65 °C 之熔點，且幾乎與所有蠟及油相容。 植物蠟可自豆類、葉及漿果而得到。植物蠟可包括揚 梅、小燭樹、巴西棕摘、棉花、梧牙草、冷杉、日本、小 冠椰子、棕橺、米糠油、甘蔗、肉豆蔻及可可脂。 可使用的合成結晶蠟為結晶聚合物（例如聚乙烯、聚曱 烯）、經化學修飾的蠟、聚合α烯烴及合成動物蠟。舉例而 言，可使用矽化蜂蠟，其為經化學修飾的蜂蠟。 可根據本發明使用的各種蠟之樣品及其等性質在下表1 中闡明。 表1 :蠟及其等性質 蠟 製造商 分類# 穿透值m (25〇C) 熔點 (°C) Ultraflex 琥珀 Bareco Products MC 27 74.1 Victory 琥珀 Bareco Products MC 28 79.1 白凡士林 Penreco MC 54 Multiwax ML-445 Crompton Corp. MC 30 79.4 Multiwax 180-M Crompton Corp. MC 18 85 Multiwax W-835 Crompton Corp. MC 70 76.7 Multiwax X145A Crompton Corp. MC 40 74 140349.doc 201000145 蠟 製造商 分類# 穿透值m (25〇C) 熔點 (°C) 石蠟50/155 Frank B. Ross Co., Inc. P 12 67 矽化蜂蠟 Koster Kuenen, Inc. DN N/A 70 Be Square 175白蠟 Bareco Products MC 15 82.5 Be Square 175黑蠟 Bareco Products MC 18 82.3 Parawax 2550F The international group MC N/A 40 蜂蠟NF Frank B. Ross Co., Inc. N 18 62.5 *MC :微晶；P :石壌；N :天然/動物；伽：天然/動物蝶的衍生物 穿透值.由製造商使用美國材料與測試協會(American Society for 油麟人度之鮮顧方法提 值“深度係由針入度計在100 ’用於結構化其它有益 林或礦物凍），其通常包 雜質之天然混合物。 為調理組合物的多種成 本發明之另一結構化材料（例如 製劑）係微晶蠟凡士林（亦稱為凡士 含約90重量％之微晶蠟與少量其它 根據本發明之組合物可包含常用 分中之任一種。 根據本發明之組合物亦可調西 ^ ^配成用於處理頭髮（通常名 洗髮後）及隨後清洗的調理劑。 此調理劑將包含一種或多種在 在化妝〇0上可接受且適用灰 局部施用於頭髮之調理界面活性劑。 適合的調理界面活性劑係選自 目陽離子界面活性劑，單3 或混合使用。實例包括四級銨氫 乳乳化物或其鹽，例如氣彳f 物。 140349.doc 201000145 適用於本發明之頭髮調理劑的陽離子界面活性劑包括十 六烷基三甲基氯化銨、二十二烷基三甲基氣化銨、十六燒 基氣化°比啶、四甲基氣化銨、四乙基氣化銨、辛烷基三甲 基乳化知：、十一烧基二曱基氯化録、十六院基三甲基氣化 銨、辛烷基二甲基节基氣化銨、癸烷基二甲基节基氣化 銨、十八娱;基二甲基节基氯化錢、雙_十二炫基二甲基氣 化銨、雙-十八烷基二甲基氯化銨、牛脂三甲基氣化銨、 椰油三甲基氯化銨及其相對應的氫氧化物。進一步合適的 陽離子界面活性劑包括CTFA名稱為Quaternium-5， Quaternium-31及Quaternium-丨8的材料。上述材料之任何 混合物亦適合。本發明之頭髮調理劑的特別有效陽離子界 面活性劑係十六烧基三甲基氯化錢，其可購得，例如 DEHYQUART(來自 Henkel)。201000145 » VI. DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION: TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to an improved conditioning composition. [Prior Art] There is still a need for improved conditioning compositions despite the prior art. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION Accordingly, a hair conditioning composition comprising a hydrophobically modified anionic polymer is provided. & The hydrophobically modified anionic polymer provides better cleaning properties, especially when the composition is conditioning the film composition. The polymer is preferably an acrylate or methacrylate polymer. The hydrophobic modification preferably comprises an alkylation. The alkyl group preferably contains from 6 to 30 carbons, more preferably from 16 to 28 carbons and most preferably from 18 to 24 carbons.杈佳polymer is sold by Rohm & Hass under the trade name Aculyn. > It is preferably Aculyn 28TM. The polymer is present in an amount of from 0.01 to 5% by weight and more preferably from 5 to 1% by weight. The composition according to any of the prior claims preferably comprises a structurant. The structuring agent improves the feel of the product in the hands of the user. The structurant of the composition according to the present invention may be a natural or synthetic crystalline wax. Mineral, animal or vegetable waxes are referred to as natural waxes. Synthetic waxes are polymeric waxes synthesized from raw materials or chemically modified natural waxes. 'The natural crystalline wax that can be used, for example, in paraffin and microcrystalline, is a petroleum-based wax. 140349.doc 201000145 The soil micro-butterfly butterfly (MC) is very similar to Shisheng chemically. It is composed of long saturated smoke bonds, and is formed into two types of ants. It is isolated from crude oil and is Μ. Butterflies usually have a higher molecular weight. The paraffin wax is extracted from the high-folk point (four) of the crude oil by cooling and transition during the refining process. The resulting stone ring typically has less than 0.5% oil after the wicking process to remove residual oil from the butterfly. There are a variety of different levels of melting point that can be utilized. Paraffin wax is generally colorless or white and transparent. Paraffin wax is mainly composed of linear molecules having a small amount of branched molecules and mainly branching near the end of the bond. Paraffin wax has a good form of large crystals due to the long straight bond. The molecular weight of paraffin wax is generally between 360 and 420 (26 to 30 carbon atoms), although a type with a longer bond (molecular weight up to 600) can be obtained... the melting point is usually 126,134 卞 (me), and the high molecular weight type is close. 17 traitor (77. enchanted charm. Stone (four) broken and added oil will weaken the structure (lower tensile strength). Microcrystalline kan (MC) and sarcophagus differ in physical properties, bond structure and length, and manufacturing methods. It is more poplar than stone soil, more flexible and has higher tensile strength and melting point. MC ants have high affinity for oil. When added, it can increase soil plasticity. MC can not be decomposed during steaming. Therefore, it is separated from the residual vapor fraction of crude oil by a process involving recrystallization and centrifugation in an organic solvent. The oil content varies with grade, but usually it is about (10) The chain of straight bonds contains randomly distributed branched molecules. The melting point is usually 145 195 卞 (63_91. 高. High penetration value indicates the flexibility of the wax, but the flexibility does not change with the melting point. There are also other minerals (4), such as Dan, brown (four), soil, pure ground wax, still He waxes and peat wax. 140349.doc 201000145 Animal waxes are available from materials such as bees, insects or whales. These waxes include, but are not limited to, beeswax, insect wax, shellac wax, cetyl wax and wool wax. , classified as an animal, can be used by honeybees to construct a honeycomb. The wax is collected by melting the honeycomb and filtering out the wax. The beeswax has a melting point of about 61-65 ° C, and almost all waxes and oils. Compatible. Vegetable waxes are available from beans, leaves and berries. Plant waxes may include arbutus, candelaria, Brazilian brown, cotton, sedge, fir, Japanese, small crown coconut, palm sorghum, rice bran oil, Sugar cane, nutmeg and cocoa butter. Synthetic crystalline waxes which can be used are crystalline polymers (for example polyethylene, polydecene), chemically modified waxes, polymeric alpha olefins and synthetic animal waxes. For example, sulphurized beeswax can be used. It is a chemically modified beeswax. Samples of various waxes and their properties which can be used in accordance with the present invention are set forth in Table 1 below. Table 1: Wax and its equivalent wax manufacturer classification # Penetration value m (25〇C ) Melting Point (°C) Ultraflex Amber Bar Eco Products MC 27 74.1 Victory Amber Bareco Products MC 28 79.1 White Vaseline Penreco MC 54 Multiwax ML-445 Crompton Corp. MC 30 79.4 Multiwax 180-M Crompton Corp. MC 18 85 Multiwax W-835 Crompton Corp. MC 70 76.7 Multiwax X145A Crompton Corp. MC 40 74 140349.doc 201000145 Wax Manufacturer Classification # Penetration Value m (25〇C) Melting Point (°C) Paraffin 50/155 Frank B. Ross Co., Inc. P 12 67 Deuterated Beeswax Koster Kuenen, Inc DN N/A 70 Be Square 175 White Wax Bareco Products MC 15 82.5 Be Square 175 Black Wax Bareco Products MC 18 82.3 Parawax 2550F The international group MC N/A 40 Beeswax NF Frank B. Ross Co., Inc. N 18 62.5 * MC: microcrystalline; P: sarcophagus; N: natural/animal; gamma: natural/animal butterfly derivative penetration value. The American Society for Materials and Testing (American Society for Oil and Humanity) The value "depth is measured by needle penetration at 100 ' for structuring other beneficial forests or mineral jelly), which usually contains a natural mixture of impurities. Another structured material (e.g., formulation) for conditioning the composition is a microcrystalline wax vaseline (also known as a vase containing about 90% by weight of microcrystalline wax and a minor amount of other compositions according to the invention may comprise commonly used Any of the ingredients. The composition according to the present invention may also be formulated into a conditioning agent for treating hair (usually after shampooing) and subsequent cleaning. This conditioning agent will contain one or more of the ingredients in the makeup. A conditioning surfactant suitable for topical application to gray hair. Suitable conditioning surfactants are selected from the group consisting of cationic surfactants, either alone or in combination. Examples include a quaternary ammonium hydrogen emulsion or a salt thereof. For example, gas sputum. 140349.doc 201000145 Cationic surfactants suitable for use in the hair conditioning agents of the present invention include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium hydride, sixteen Burning base gasification ° pyridine, tetramethylammonium vapor, tetraethylammonium vapor, octyl trimethyl emulsification:, eleven alkyl dithiol chloride, hexadecanthyl trimethyl Gasified ammonium, octyl dimethyl section Base gasification ammonium, decyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium sulfate, hexadecene; dimethyl benzyl chlorinated money, bis-twelve dimethyl carbamide, bis-octadecyl Dimethylammonium chloride, tallow trimethylammonium vapor, coconut trimethylammonium chloride and its corresponding hydroxide. Further suitable cationic surfactants include CTFA under the name Quaternium-5, Quaternium-31 And Quaternium-丨8 materials. Any mixture of the above materials is also suitable. The particularly effective cationic surfactant of the hair conditioning agent of the present invention is hexadecyl trimethyl chlorinated, which is commercially available, for example, DEHYQUART (from Henkel).
本發明之調理劑中，陽離；R .工A 苟離子界面活性劑濃度較佳為组合 物之0.01至10重量〇/0，更祛盔丄 更佳為0.05至5重量％ ,最佳為〇」至In the conditioning agent of the present invention, the concentration of the cationic surfactant is preferably from 0.01 to 10% 〇/0 of the composition, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight. 〇" to
2重量％。 本發明之調理劑宜添加脂肪醇物質。咸信調理組合物中 合併使用脂肪醇物質與陽離子界面活性劑尤其有利，因為 此導致層狀相的形成’陽離子界面活性劑分散其中。 代表性脂肪醇含8至22個碳 厌原于，更佳16至20個。合適 的月曰肪醇之實例包括十六烷 用此等物質亦有利，因1等產生二 其混合物。使 性質。 U，、等產生本發明組合物的全面調理 佔組合物之〇. 〇 1 脂肪醇物質在本發明 調理劑中之含量宜 140349.doc 201000145 陽離子界面活性劑與脂 較佳為4:1至1:8，最佳 至10重量％，較佳0.1至5重量0/〇。 肪醇之合適重量比為1〇:1至1:1〇， 為 1:1 至 1:4。 矽醐係本發明頭髮處理組合物中一種特別佳成分。具體 而言，本發明之調理劑較佳亦將包含矽酮的乳化顆粒了用 於增強調理性能。矽酮不溶於該組合物之水性基質，且因 此呈乳化形式存在’矽酮則以分散顆粒存在。 合適的矽酮包括聚雙有機矽氧烷，特定言之ctfa名稱 為聚二甲基矽酮（dimethic〇ne)之聚二甲基矽氧烷。亦適用 於本發明之組合物為具有末端羥基之聚二甲基矽氧烷，其 CTFA名稱為聚二甲基矽氧烷醇（dimethic〇n〇1)。亦適用於 本發明之組合物為具有低交聯度的矽酮膠，如 96/3 1188中所述。該等材料可賦予頭髮質地、蓬鬆及可塑 性，及良好的乾濕調理性。 乳化矽酮自身（非乳液或最終的頭髮調理組合物）之黏度 通常至少10,000 cst。一般，吾人發現調理效果隨黏度的 增加而增強。因此，矽酮自身之黏度較佳係至少6〇,〇〇〇 cst，最佳係至少5〇〇,〇〇〇 cst，理想係至少1〇〇〇 〇〇〇 cst。 為方便調配，該黏度較佳不超過1 〇9 cst。 用於本發明調理劑的乳化矽嗣通常在組合物中具有小於 30微米’較佳小於20微米’更佳小於1〇微米之平均矽酮粒 徑。吾人已發現減小粒徑通常改善調理性能，組合物中該 乳化矽酮之平均矽酮粒徑最佳為小於2微米，其理想為 〇·〇 1至1微米之間。具有SO. 15微米之平均石夕酮粒徑的石夕酮 140349.doc 201000145 乳劑通常稱為微乳劑。 粒徑可藉由雷射散射技術，使用Malvern儀器之2600D粒 度分析儀測量。 用於本發明之合適的矽酮乳劑亦可以預乳化形式購得。 合適的預形成乳劑實例包括乳劑DC2-1766、DC2-1784 及微乳劑DC2-1865及DC2-1870，其等均購自Dow Corning。該等均係聚二曱基矽氧烷醇之乳劑/微乳劑。交 聯之妙_膠亦可呈預乳化形式購得，其有利於方便調製。 較佳實例係購自Dow Corning的DC X2-1787材料，其係交 聯聚二甲基矽氧烷醇膠之乳劑。另一較佳實例係購自D〇w Coming的之DC X2-1391材料，其係交聯聚二曱基矽氧烷 醇膠之微乳劑。 本發明之調理劑中另一較佳石夕酮類係胺基官能性石夕嗣。 胺基B此性碎鲷」意指包含至少一個一級胺基，二級胺 基或三級胺基，或四級胺基的石夕酮。 合適的胺基石夕酮實例包括： ⑴聚碎氧烧’其CTFA名稱為「胺基二曱基聚碎氧燒 (amodimethicone)」及通式： H0-[Si(CH3)2-0-]x-[Si(0H)(CH2CH2CH2-NH-CH2CH2NH2).0-]y_H 其中，X及y係取決於聚合物分子量的數值，通常使分 子量在約5,000至500,000之間。 (ii)聚矽氧烷，其具有通式： R'aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n-(〇SiGbR，2-b)m-〇-SiG3-a-R，a 其中： 140349.doc 201000145 G係選自Η、苯基、烷基，例如曱基； a為0或1至3之間的整數，較佳為〇; b為0或1，較佳為1 ; m與η為使（m+n)在1至2000之間，較佳5〇至150之間的數 值； m為1至2000之間，較佳1至1〇之間的數值； η為0至1999之間，較佳49至149之間的數值，及 R係通式-CqHqL之單價自由基，其中q為2至8之間的數 值且L係選自下列的胺基官能團： -NR"-CH2-CH2-N(R )2 -n(r'，)2 -N+(R )3Α· -n+h(r")2a· -n+h2(r’’)a· -n(r")-ch2-ch2-n+h2(r")a· 其中R"係選自H、苯基、苄基或飽和單價烴基，例如c]2〇烷 基，及； A為_素離子，例如氣或漠。 根據上式之適宜胺基官能性矽酮包括如下述稱為「三甲 基矽烷基胺基聚二甲基矽氧烷」且其不溶於水之程度足以 適用於本發明組合物之聚石夕氧烧：2% by weight. The conditioning agent of the present invention is preferably added with a fatty alcohol material. The combination of a fatty alcohol material and a cationic surfactant in a salty conditioning composition is particularly advantageous because it results in the formation of a lamellar phase where the 'cationic surfactant' is dispersed. Representative fatty alcohols contain from 8 to 22 carbons, preferably from 16 to 20. Examples of suitable decyl alcohols include hexadecane which is also advantageous for use of such materials, as a result of the production of two mixtures thereof. Make nature. U,, etc. to produce a comprehensive conditioning of the composition of the present invention. 〇1 fatty alcohol material in the conditioning agent of the present invention is preferably 140349.doc 201000145 cationic surfactant and lipid is preferably 4:1 to 1 : 8, preferably up to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5 parts by weight. The suitable weight ratio of the fatty alcohol is 1 〇: 1 to 1:1 〇, which is 1:1 to 1:4. Tannins are a particularly preferred ingredient in the hair treatment compositions of the present invention. In particular, the conditioning agent of the present invention preferably also incorporates emulsified particles comprising anthrone to enhance conditioning performance. The fluorenone is insoluble in the aqueous base of the composition and is therefore present in an emulsified form. The fluorenone is present as dispersed granules. Suitable anthrones include polybiorganosiloxanes, in particular the ctfa name polyoxymethylene ketone (dimethic〇ne). Also suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention are polydimethyl methoxyalkanes having terminal hydroxyl groups, the CTFA designation being polydimethyl methoxy stanol (dimethic 〇 n 〇 1). Also suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention are those having a low degree of crosslinking, as described in 96/3 1188. These materials impart texture, fluffiness and plasticity to the hair, as well as good dry and wet conditioning. The viscosity of the emulsified fluorenone itself (non-emulsion or final hair conditioning composition) is typically at least 10,000 cst. In general, we have found that the conditioning effect increases with increasing viscosity. Therefore, the viscosity of the fluorenone itself is preferably at least 6 〇, 〇〇〇 cst, preferably at least 5 〇〇, 〇〇〇 cst, and ideally at least 1 〇〇〇 〇〇〇 cst. For ease of formulation, the viscosity is preferably no more than 1 〇 9 cst. The emulsified mash used in the conditioning agent of the present invention typically has an average fluorenone particle size of less than 30 microns, preferably less than 20 microns, and more preferably less than 1 Å in the composition. We have found that reducing the particle size generally improves the conditioning performance, and the average fluorenone particle size of the emulsified fluorenone in the composition is preferably less than 2 microns, which is desirably between 1 and 1 micron. Anthraquinone having an average particle size of SO. 15 microns 140349.doc 201000145 Emulsions are commonly referred to as microemulsions. The particle size can be measured by laser scattering techniques using a 2600D particle size analyzer from Malvern Instruments. Suitable ketone emulsions for use in the present invention are also commercially available in pre-emulsified form. Examples of suitable preformed emulsions include emulsions DC2-1766, DC2-1784 and microemulsions DC2-1865 and DC2-1870, all of which are commercially available from Dow Corning. These are all emulsions/microemulsions of polydidecyloxyalkanols. The cross-linking _ gum can also be purchased in pre-emulsified form, which is advantageous for convenient preparation. A preferred example is DC X2-1787 material available from Dow Corning as an emulsion of a cross-linked polydimethyl methoxyalkanol gum. Another preferred embodiment is DC X2-1391 material available from D〇w Coming, which is a microemulsion of a crosslinked polydecyl decyl oxycohol. Another preferred material of the conditioner of the present invention is an amine functional rhododendron. "Amino B" is meant to mean at least one primary amine group, a secondary amine group or a tertiary amine group, or a quaternary amine group. Examples of suitable carborazepines include: (1) Polyoxymethane, whose CTFA name is "aminodimethicone" and the formula: H0-[Si(CH3)2-0-]x - [Si(0H)(CH2CH2CH2-NH-CH2CH2NH2).0-]y_H wherein X and y are based on the molecular weight of the polymer, usually having a molecular weight of between about 5,000 and 500,000. (ii) a polyoxyalkylene having the formula: R'aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n-(〇SiGbR,2-b)m-〇-SiG3-aR, a wherein: 140349.doc 201000145 G system Selected from fluorene, phenyl, alkyl, such as fluorenyl; a is 0 or an integer between 1 and 3, preferably 〇; b is 0 or 1, preferably 1; m and η are such that (m+ n) between 1 and 2000, preferably between 5 and 150; m is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 1 and 1; η is between 0 and 1999, preferably 49 a value between 149 and R, a monovalent radical of the formula -CqHqL, wherein q is a number between 2 and 8 and L is selected from the group consisting of: -NR"-CH2-CH2-N ( R )2 -n(r',)2 -N+(R )3Α· -n+h(r")2a· -n+h2(r'')a· -n(r")-ch2-ch2- n+h2(r")a· wherein R" is selected from H, phenyl, benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon group, such as c] 2 decyl, and; A is a _ s ion, such as gas or desert. Suitable amine functional anthrone according to the above formula includes, as hereinafter referred to as "trimethylsulfonylalkylaminopolydimethyloxane", which is insoluble in water to a degree sufficient for the composition of the present invention. Oxygen burning:
Si(CH3)3-0-[Si(CH3)2-0-]x-[Si(CH3)(R-NH-CH2CH2NH2)_ 0-]y-Si(CH3)3 其中x+y為約50至約500之間的數值，且其中R為具有2至5 140349.doc •10· 201000145 個碳原子的伸烷基。x+y較佳在約100至約3〇〇之間β (iii) 四級矽酮聚合物，其具有通式： {(R1)(R2)2(R3)N+CH2CH(OH)CH2〇(CH2)3[Si(R4)(R5)-0-]n-Si(CH3)3-0-[Si(CH3)2-0-]x-[Si(CH3)(R-NH-CH2CH2NH2)_0-]y-Si(CH3)3 wherein x+y is about 50 A value between about 500, and wherein R is an alkylene group having 2 to 5 140349.doc • 10· 201000145 carbon atoms. X+y is preferably between about 100 and about 3 Å of a β(iii) quaternary fluorenone polymer having the formula: {(R1)(R2)2(R3)N+CH2CH(OH)CH2〇 (CH2)3[Si(R4)(R5)-0-]n-
Si(R6)(R7)-(CH2)3-〇-CH2CH(OH)CH2N+(R8)(R9)(R10)}(X')2 ， 其中r1&r1(>可相同或不同且可分別獨立選自Η、飽和或不 ，飽和的長或短鏈烷（烯）基、分支鏈烷（烯）基及C5_C8環系； R2至R9可相同或不同且可分別獨立選自Η、直鏈或分支 鏈低碳數烷（烯）基、及C5-C8環系； ❿ η為約6 0至約12 0之間的數值，較佳約8 〇，及 X—較佳為醋酸根’但可改用例如鹵離子、有機竣酸根、 有機磺酸根等。 在ΕΡ-Α-0 530 974中描述此類中合適的四級石夕酮聚合 物。 適用於本發明之調理劑的胺基官能性石夕酮的胺官能團莫 耳°/。通常為約0· 1至約8.0莫耳％，較佳約〇丨至約5.〇莫耳 ❿ ％，最佳約〇·1至約2.〇莫耳％。通常胺濃度不應超過約8.〇 莫耳％ ’因為吾人已發現過高的胺濃度對總矽酮沉積不利 且因此不利於調理性能。 * 胺基官能性石夕酮之黏度非特別關鍵且可在約1 〇〇至約 . 500,000 cst之間適當地變化。 適用於本發明之胺基官能性矽酮的具體實例係胺基矽酮 油 DC2-8220、DC2-8166、DC2-8466、及 DC2-8950-114(均 來自 Dow Coming)、及 GE 1149-75(來自 General ElectricSi(R6)(R7)-(CH2)3-〇-CH2CH(OH)CH2N+(R8)(R9)(R10)}(X')2 , wherein r1&r1(> may be the same or different and may be respectively Independently selected from hydrazine, saturated or unsaturated, long or short alk(en)yl groups, branched alk(en)yl groups and C5_C8 ring systems; R2 to R9 may be the same or different and may be independently selected from fluorene and linear Or a branched lower alkane (alkenyl) group, and a C5-C8 ring system; ❿ η is a value between about 60 and about 120, preferably about 8 Å, and X is preferably acetate 'but For example, halides, organic citrates, organic sulfonates, etc. may be used. Suitable quaternary alkene ketone polymers of this type are described in ΕΡ-Α-0 530 974. Amine functionalities suitable for use in the conditioning agents of the present invention. The amine functional moieties of the sulphonic acid ketone are usually from about 0.1 to about 8.0 mol%, preferably from about 〇丨 to about 5. 〇mol ❿ %, most preferably from about 1 to about 2. 〇mol%. Usually the amine concentration should not exceed about 8. 〇mol% 'Because we have found that too high amine concentration is detrimental to total fluorenone deposition and is therefore not conducive to conditioning performance. * Amine functional rhodamine Viscosity is not particularly critical and can be around 1 〇〇 Appropriately varied between about 500,000 cst. Specific examples of the amino-functional fluorenone suitable for use in the present invention are the amino fluorenone oils DC2-8220, DC2-8166, DC2-8466, and DC2-8950-114 (both From Dow Coming) and GE 1149-75 (from General Electric
Silicones) 〇 140349.doc -11 · 201000145 具有非離子及/或陽離子界面活性劑的胺基官能性矽酮 油之乳劑亦合適。 該等預形成之乳劑在組合物中適宜具有小於30微米，較 佳小於20微米，更佳小於10微米之平均胺基官能性矽酮粒 徑。吾人已再次發現減小粒徑通常能改善調理性能。組合 物中平均胺基官能性矽酮粒徑最佳係小於2微米，理想係 0.01至1微米之間。具有S0.15微米之平均矽酮粒徑的矽酮 乳劑通常稱為微乳劑。 胺基官能性矽酮之預形成乳劑亦可自矽酮油供應商購 得，例如Dow Corning及General Electric。具體實例包括 DC929陽離子乳劑、DC939陽離子乳劑、及非離子乳劑 DC2-7224、DC2-8467、DC2-8177及 DC2-8154(均來自 Dow Corning) 〇 用於本發明的四級矽酮聚合物之實例係材料K3474(來自 Goldschmidt) ° 併入本發明組合物的矽酮總量取決於所需的調理程度及 使用的材料。較佳量係佔總組合物之0.01至約1〇重量％， 儘管該等限制並非絕對。該下限係由.達到調理之最低濃度 決定，且該上限係由避免頭髮及/或皮膚出現不可接受的 油膩之最高濃度決定。 吾人已發現佔總組合物0.3至5重量％，較佳0.5至3重量％ 之矽酮總量係合適濃度。 其它成分可包括黏度改性劑、防腐劑、著色劑、多元醇 如丙三醇及聚丙二醇、螯合劑例如EDTA、抗氧化劑如維 140349.doc -12- 201000145 生素E醋酸醋、香料、抗微生物劑及防曬劑。該等成分之 個別含量將為可達成其目的之有效量。通常此等視需要選 用成分之含量分別可佔總組合物之至高約5重量％。 本發明之組合物較佳亦含有適於頭髮護理的輔助劑。通 常該等成分之含量分別可佔總組合物之至高2重量％，較 佳為至高1重量％。 合適的頭髮護理輔助劑係： φ (1)天然髮根營養素，例如胺基酸及糖類。合適的胺基 酸實例包括精胺酸、半胱胺酸、麩醯胺、麩胺酸、異白胺 酸、白胺酸、曱硫胺酸、絲胺酸、纈胺酸、及/或其前體 及何生物。該等胺基酸可單獨添加，以混合物或以肽形式 (例如一及三肽）添加。該等胺基酸亦可以蛋白水解產物形 式添加，例如角蛋白或膠原蛋白水解產物。合適糖類係葡 萄糖、右旋糖及果糖。其等可單獨添加或以例如水果提取 物的形式添加。 • (U)有利於毛髮纖維之製劑。實例為： "神經醯胺，其用於濕潤纖維及維持角質層完整性。神 經醯胺可自天然原料中提取，或作為合成神經醢胺及類神 * 經醯胺得到。較佳的神經醯胺係Ceramide π (來自Quest)。 ‘神經醢胺混合物亦合適，如：Ceramide LS(來自Silicones) 〇 140349.doc -11 · 201000145 An amine-based fluorenone oil emulsion having a nonionic and/or cationic surfactant is also suitable. Preferably, the preformed emulsions have an average amine functional anthrone particle size of less than 30 microns, preferably less than 20 microns, more preferably less than 10 microns, in the composition. We have again found that reducing the particle size generally improves the conditioning performance. The average amine functional fluorenone particle size in the composition is preferably less than 2 microns, ideally between 0.01 and 1 micron. Anthrone emulsions having an average fluorenone particle size of S 0.15 microns are commonly referred to as microemulsions. Pre-formed emulsions of amino-functional fluorenone are also available from decyl ketone oil suppliers such as Dow Corning and General Electric. Specific examples include DC929 cationic emulsion, DC939 cationic emulsion, and nonionic emulsions DC2-7224, DC2-8467, DC2-8177, and DC2-8154 (both from Dow Corning). Examples of quaternary anthrone polymers useful in the present invention. The material K3474 (from Goldschmidt) ° The total amount of anthrone in the composition of the invention depends on the degree of conditioning desired and the materials used. Preferred amounts are from 0.01 to about 1% by weight of the total composition, although such limitations are not absolute. The lower limit is determined by the minimum concentration at which conditioning is achieved, and the upper limit is determined by the highest concentration that avoids unacceptable greasy hair and/or skin. It has been found that the total amount of anthrone of 0.3 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight, based on the total composition is a suitable concentration. Other ingredients may include viscosity modifiers, preservatives, colorants, polyols such as glycerol and polypropylene glycol, chelating agents such as EDTA, antioxidants such as vitamin 140349.doc -12- 201000145, vitamin E acetate, perfume, anti-drug Microbial agents and sunscreens. The individual levels of such ingredients will be an effective amount to achieve their purpose. Generally, such optional ingredients may each comprise up to about 5% by weight of the total composition. The compositions of the present invention preferably also contain adjuvants suitable for hair care. Usually, the ingredients may each comprise up to 2% by weight, preferably up to 1% by weight, of the total composition. Suitable hair care adjuvants are: φ (1) natural hair root nutrients such as amino acids and sugars. Examples of suitable amino acids include arginine, cysteine, branamine, glutamic acid, isoleucine, leucine, guanidine thioglycolic acid, serine, valine, and/or Precursor and what creatures. The amino acids may be added singly, in a mixture or in the form of peptides (e.g., mono- and tripeptides). The amino acids may also be added in the form of a protein hydrolysate, such as a keratin or collagen hydrolysate. Suitable sugars are glucose, dextrose and fructose. They may be added separately or in the form of, for example, a fruit extract. • (U) is good for hair fiber preparations. Examples are: "Neuroamine, which is used to wet the fibers and maintain the integrity of the stratum corneum. The guanamine can be extracted from natural raw materials or obtained as a synthetic neuropterin and a genus * by guanamine. A preferred neuropterin-based Ceramide π (from Quest). ‘The mixture of neural guanamine is also suitable, such as: Ceramide LS (from
Serobiologiques)。 _游離脂肪酸，其用於角質層修復及防止受損。實例為 分支鏈脂肪酸，例如1曱基二十烷酸及該系列之其它同 系物，直鏈脂肪酸，如：硬脂酸、肉豆蔻酸與棕櫊酸，及 140349.doc 13 201000145 不飽和脂㈣’如：油酸、亞麻油酸、次亞麻油酸及花生 四烯酸。脂肪酸較佳係油酸。該等脂肪酸可單獨添加，呈 混&物添加，或以自例如羊毛脂提取物得到的混合物形式 添加。 亦可使用上述任何活性成分的混合物。 在第一態樣中，提供一種用於製造根據第一態樣的調理 組合物的方法。該方法包括形成包含陽離子界面活性劑及 脂肪材料的調理凝膠相，並另外形成經疏水性修飾的聚合 物之溶液，該溶液可視需要使用陽離子界面活性劑，其若 存在時，需先加入水中。 然後在加入剩餘成分前，先混合此兩種混合物，形成調 理組合物。 附加成分較佳包括香料、增稠劑、防腐劑、顏料及調理 性碎酮。 【實施方式】 實例1 根據本發明調配物。其製法為加熱約35重量％水至65_ 70 C後’再添加硬脂醯胺丙基二曱基胺。繼續混合直至產 物完全溶解。 在高剪切下加入Aculyn28以協助分散。 另外將二十二烷基三曱基氣化銨、鯨蠟硬脂醇、硬脂酸 及石蠛一起溶化，且將此熔融混合物與Acuiyn及硬脂醯胺 丙基二曱基胺加入至主混合器中。 冷卻至40-45°C ’然後加入調理性矽酮、香料及防腐劑。 140349.doc -14- 201000145 成分 重量％ 二十二烷基三曱基氯化銨 1.05 硬脂醯胺丙基二曱基胺 1.50 録躐硬脂醇 6.00 丙烯酸酯/山窬醇聚醚-25曱基丙烯酸酯 0.10 硬脂酸 0.10 石壤 1.00 調理性石夕酮 3.00 香料 1.00 乙二胺四乙酸二鈉 0.10 苯氧基乙醇 0.40 對羥基苯曱酸曱酯 0.20 水 至100 實例2 組合物A係根據本發明之組合物，且藉由與實例1描述相 似的製程而製得。組合物B係一種對照組合物，其不包含 任何經疏水性修飾的聚合物。 成分 重量％ A B 二十二烷基三甲基氣化銨 1.05 1.05 硬脂醯胺丙基二曱基胺 1.50 1.50 鯨蠟硬脂醇 6.00 6.00 丙烯酸酯/山薔醇聚醚-25曱基丙 烯酸酯 0.10 - 調理性矽酮 3.00 3.00 香料 1.00 1.00 乙二胺四乙酸二鈉 0.10 0.10 苯氧基乙醇 0.40 0.40 對羥基苯甲酸甲酯 0.20 0.20 水 至100 至100 140349.doc 15 201000145 一對一比較組合物A及B，其中專家組所做的評估為易 清洗。12位專家評估者中，有11位認為組合物A更易清 洗0 140349.doc •16·Serobiologiques). _ Free fatty acids, which are used to repair the stratum corneum and prevent damage. Examples are branched chain fatty acids such as 1 mercaptohexanoic acid and other homologues of the series, linear fatty acids such as stearic acid, myristic acid and palmitic acid, and 140349.doc 13 201000145 unsaturated lipids (iv) 'Example: oleic acid, linoleic acid, linoleic acid and arachidonic acid. The fatty acid is preferably oleic acid. These fatty acids may be added separately, added as a mixture & or as a mixture obtained from, for example, a lanolin extract. Mixtures of any of the above active ingredients can also be used. In a first aspect, a method for making a conditioning composition according to a first aspect is provided. The method comprises forming a conditioning gel phase comprising a cationic surfactant and a fatty material, and additionally forming a solution of the hydrophobically modified polymer, the solution optionally using a cationic surfactant, if present, first added to the water . The two mixtures are then mixed prior to the addition of the remaining ingredients to form a conditioning composition. Additional ingredients preferably include perfumes, thickeners, preservatives, pigments, and conditioning ketones. [Examples] Example 1 A formulation according to the present invention. It is prepared by heating about 35% by weight of water to 65-70 C and then adding stearylamine propyl decylamine. Continue mixing until the product is completely dissolved. Aculyn 28 was added under high shear to aid dispersion. In addition, tetradecyltrimethylammonium vapor, cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid and sarcophagus are dissolved together, and the molten mixture is added to Acuiyn and stearylamine propyl decylamine to the main In the mixer. Cool to 40-45 ° C' and then add the oxime oxime, flavor and preservative. 140349.doc -14- 201000145 Ingredient wt% Dodecyltridecyl ammonium chloride 1.05 Stearic acid propyl decylamine 1.50 Record stearyl alcohol 6.00 Acrylate / behenol-25 Acrylate 0.10 Stearic acid 0.10 Stone soil 1.00 Conditioning leecin 3.00 Fragrance 1.00 Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium 0.10 Phenoxyethanol 0.40 Hydroxybenzoic acid oxime ester 0.20 Water to 100 Example 2 Composition A The composition of the present invention was prepared by a process similar to that described in Example 1. Composition B is a control composition which does not contain any hydrophobically modified polymer. Ingredient% by weight AB Didodecyltrimethylammonium oxide 1.05 1.05 Stearic acid propylaminodecylamine 1.50 1.50 Cetearyl alcohol 6.00 6.00 Acrylate / behenyl ether-25 methacrylate 0.10 - oxime oxime 3.00 3.00 perfume 1.00 1.00 disodium edetate 0.10 0.10 phenoxyethanol 0.40 0.40 methylparaben 0.20 0.20 water to 100 to 100 140349.doc 15 201000145 one-to-one comparison composition A and B, where the assessment made by the expert group is easy to clean. Eleven of the 12 expert evaluators considered composition A to be easier to clean. 0 140349.doc •16·