TR2023010621A2 - WOVEN DENIM FABRIC AND PRODUCTION METHOD - Google Patents

WOVEN DENIM FABRIC AND PRODUCTION METHOD

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Publication number
TR2023010621A2
TR2023010621A2 TR2023/010621 TR2023010621A2 TR 2023010621 A2 TR2023010621 A2 TR 2023010621A2 TR 2023/010621 TR2023/010621 TR 2023/010621 TR 2023010621 A2 TR2023010621 A2 TR 2023010621A2
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Turkey
Prior art keywords
cotton
fabric
feature
denim fabric
soy protein
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TR2023/010621
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Turkish (tr)
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Kaplangi̇ray Bi̇nnaz
Ener Gunduz Yasemi̇n
Ba Ak Bozeli̇ Ceren
Ta Tan Ozkan Esra
Original Assignee
Bursa Uludağ Üni̇versi̇tesi̇
İskur Deni̇m İşletmeleri̇ Sanayi̇ Ve Ti̇caret Anoni̇m Şi̇rketi̇
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Publication of TR2023010621A2 publication Critical patent/TR2023010621A2/en

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Abstract

Buluş, dokunsal ve vücut hareket konfor özelliklerine sahip denim kumaş ile ilgilidir.The invention relates to denim fabric with tactile and body movement comfort properties.

Description

TARIFNAME DOKUMA DENIM KUMAS VE ÜRETIM YÖNTEMI Teknik Alan Bulus, dokunsal ve vücut hareket konfor özelliklerine sahip denim kumas ile ilgilidir. Teknigin Bilinen Durumu Son yillarda hem tüketiciler hem de büyük denim üreticileri hizla degisen trendlerin de etkisiyle denim kumasta dogal Iiflerin kullanimina egilim göstermektedirler. Bunun yaninda giyim tercihlerinde giysi konforunun ve bununla ilgili kumas özelliklerinin öneminin arttigi görülmüstür. Bu kapsamda kumaslarin ve bunlardan üretilen giysilerin duyusal ve fizyolojik rahatlik saglama, boyutsal stabilite, hareket serbestligi, isi ve nem geçirgenlik gibi özellikleri ön plana çikmaktadir. Dokunsal konfor, vücudun tekstil yüzeyi ile direkt temasi aninda duyulan hislerin bir sonucudur. Bu temas sonucu hissedilen kumasin yumusakligi, sagladigi hareket serbestligi ve temas sirasinda ortaya çikan batma, kasinti ve yapisma gibi giysi konforunu negatif yönde etkileyen faktörleri içerir. Bu hisler; kumasin yüzey pürüzsüzlügü, agirlik, yumusaklik, yogunluk ve rijitlik gibi özellikleri ile dogrudan iliskilidir. Bir tekstil ürünün hareket serbestligine izin vermesi, istendiginde vücudun seklini almasi ve vücuda fazla yük bindirmemesi durumunda, dokunsal olarak konfordan söz edilebilir. Özellikle vücuda oturan giysilerde (pantolon, gömlek vb) bu durum daha da ön plana çikmaktadir. Denim kumaslar çözgüsü %100 pamuk ipligi, atkisi ise pamuk veya karisimlarindan (polyester, tensel, modal vb) genellikle D3/1 veya D2/1 örgü yapisinda dokunan kumaslardir. Atki iplikleri boyasiz (ham renkte) olarak kullanilirken rengini indigo boyali çözgü ipliklerinden almaktadir. Denim kumaslarin, yapisinda kullanilan pamuk lifi ve dokuma yapisi nedeniyle esneme özellikleri oldukça kisitlidir. Atki ipligine sentetik Iiflerin katilmasi ile bir miktar esneklik saglanmakla birlikte yeterli olmamaktadir. Bu nedenle atkida elastan kullanilarak kumaslarin esneklik özellikleri arttirilmaktadir. Kumaslardaki esneme özellikleri rahatlik esnekligi ve hareketlik esnekligi saglama durumuna göre degismektedir. Rahatlik esneklgi saglayan kumas yapilarinda yaklasik olarak %25-30 oraninda esneklik yeterli olabilmektedir. Ancak vücuda oturan giysilerde (pantolon gibi) kumasin yapisinda genellikle %2-3 oraninda elastan kullanilmaktadir. Teknigin bilinen durumuna yönelik gerçeklestirilen patent ve literatür arastirmasinda saptanan dokümanlar asagida özetlenmistir. yerine çift kat bükümden kaynakli ilave bükümle daha kivrak ve daha kivrimli bir iplik elde edilmesi ve bu ipliklerin kullanimi ile streç özelliginin iyilestirilmesini kapsamaktadir. arasinda degisen oranlarda angora tavsani lifi kullanilmasi ile denim kumasin soguk ve nemli havalarda ilk giyildiginde verdigi sogukluk hissin giderilmesini, Angora Iifinin yüksek isi tutuculuk özelligi sayesinde soguk havalarda da rahatlikla giyilebilen ürünlerin üretilmesini kapsamaktadir. TR 2016/06169 basvuru numarali patent basvurusu, soguk kis aylarinda isi izolasyonu saglayan, terletmeyen, nefes alabilen, anti bakteriyel kiyafetler ortaya koyulmasini saglayan havlu katmani, denim kumas katmani ve Iaminasyon malzemesine sahip termal denim kumas ile ilgilidir. CN214983784 U yayin numarali patent basvurusu, bir ana kumas tabakasi ve bunun dis tarafina yapistirilmis nefes alabilen, nem ileten ve antibakteriyel tabakadan olusan katmanli kumas yapisini içermektedir. Cilt dostu tabaka, kitosan lifleri ve soya fasulyesi proteini liflerini içermekte olup, nefes alabilen nem ileten katman renkli bir pamuk lifi tabakasindan olusmaktadir. Nefes alabilen nem ileten katmanin kalinligi, temel malzeme katmaninin kalinliginin 0.5-1.5 katidir. Dokümana konu olan yapi katmanli bir yapidir ve dokunsal konfor özelliklerini içermemektedir. kumasi ile ilgilidir. Bu basvuruda soya, elastan ve pamuk içerigi açiklanmasina ragmen spesifik oranlar verilmemistir. Ayrica dokunsal konfor özelliklerinden bahsedilmemektedir. Sonuç olarak, yukarida anlatilan olumsuzluklardan dolayi ve mevcut çözümlerin konu hakkindaki yetersizligi nedeniyle ilgili teknik alanda bir gelistirme yapilmasi gerekli kilinmistir. Bulusun Amaci Mevcut bulus, yukarida bahsedilen gereksinimleri karsilayan, tüm dezavantajlari ortadan kaldiran ve ilave bazi avantajlar getiren, dokuma denim kumas ve üretim yöntemi ile ilgilidir. Bulus, mevcut durumlardan esinlenerek olusturulup yukarida belirtilen olumsuzluklari çözmeyi amaçlamaktadir. Bulusun ana amaci, dokunsal ve vücut hareket konfor özelliklerine sahip pamuk, elastan ve soya protein Iifi karisimi içeren denim kumas elde etmektir. Bulus ile klasik denim kumas yapisinda farkli atki ipligi kompozisyonu kullanarak yüksek esneme özelligi ile vücut hareket konforuna sahip ve ayni zamanda dokunsal konfor özellikleri iyilestirilmis denim kumas üretilmektedir. Bulus kapsaminda atki ipliginde pamuk, soya protein Iifi ve elastan karisimi atki ipligi kullanilmistir. Soya karisimi atki ipliginin yapiya dahil edilmesiyle birlikte üretilen denim kumaslarin termal konforunun yaninda dokunsal konfor özelliklerinin de gelistirilmesi saglanmaktadir. Genel olarak denim kumaslar %100 pamuk veya pamuk elastan karisimli olarak üretilmektedir. Bu da denim kumaslarin belirli bir iklim kosulunda kullanilabilmesine sebep olmakta, daha serin iklim kosullarinda tercih edilmemektedir. Yapi içerisinde soya atki ipliginin kullanilmasi kumasin termal özelliklerinde de iyilesmeye sebep olmustur. Böylece tasarlanan denim kumas yapisi kis kosullarinda da kullanim olanagi bulabilecektir. Pamuk ve soya protein lif karisimli atki ipliginin kullanilmasiyla yumusak, pürüzsüz ve isi tutma özelligine sahip denim kumas elde edilmistir. Böylece soya Iifinin sagladigi dokunsal konfor özellikleri sayesinde tüketicinin denim kumasa dokunarak satin almasi, kullanicinin termal konforun yaninda dokunsal olarak da konfor özelligine sahip olmasi saglanmistir. Ayrica bulus kapsaminda kumas yapisi içerisinde soya ipligi ile birlikte elastan iplik de kullanilmistir. Kumas yapisi içinde elastan kullanimi sayesinde kumasin elastikiyet özellikleri de arttirilmis, böylece kumasin giysi formuna vücut hareket konfor özelliklerinin de arttirilmasi saglanmistir. Bulusta, denim kumas yapisinda atki ipliginde tercihen %6 elastan kullanilmaktadir. Söz konusu denim kumas; iplik yapisinda kullanilan %15-50 soya protein lif karisimi nedeniyle daha pürüzsüz, yumusak ve daha iyi tutum özelligine sahiptir. Bulusta atki ipliginde %15 soya lifi kullanilarak toplamda kumas içerisinde soya lif oraninin %4 civarinda olmasi saglanmistir. Bulusun farkli uygulamalarinda, atki ipliginde soya kullanim orani °A›50,ye kadar çikarilarak, tüm kumas yapisi içinde soya lif orani %15, e kadar çikarilabilir. Bunun yaninda çözgü ipiginde soya protein lifi kullanilabilmektedir. Basvuruda korunmak istenen oranIarin neden seçildigi Bulusun Detayli Açiklamasi bölümünde yapilan test sonuçlarina dayanarak açiklanmistir. Bulusun yapisal ve karakteristik özellikleri ve tüm avantajlari asagida verilen sekiller ve bu sekillere atiflar yapilmak suretiyle yazilan detayli açiklama sayesinde daha net olarak anlasilacaktir ve bu nedenle degerlendirmenin de bu sekiller ve detayli açiklama göz önüne alinarak yapilmasi gerekmektedir. Bulusun Anlasilmasina Yardimci Olacak Sekiller Sekil 1*de %100 pamuk ve pamuk ve soya karisimli atki ipligi iIe dokunan kumaslarin esneklik özellikleri verilmektedir. Sekil ?de %100 pamuk ve pamuk ve soya karisimli atki ipligi ile dokunan kumaslarin sikistirilabilirlik özellikleri verilmektedir. Sekil 3,de %100 pamuk ve pamuk ve soya karisimli atki ipligi ile dokunan kumaslarin dökümlülük özellikleri verilmektedir. Sekil 4,te %100 pamuk ve pamuk ve soya karisimli atki ipligi ile dokunan kumaslarin yüzey pürüzlülügü özellikleri verilmektedir. Sekil Site %100 pamuk ve pamuk ve soya karisimli atki ipligi ile dokunan kumaslarin kayma diranci özellikleri verilmektedir. Sekil Gida kumaslarin sicak-soguk his degerlendirmeleri (1: soguk, 2: serin, 3: nötr, 4: iIik, 5: sicak) verilmektedir. Sekil 7,de kumaslarin tutum hissi degerlendirmeleri (1: çok kötü, 2: kötü, 3: orta, 4: iyi, 5: çok iyi) verilmektedir. Sekil 8ide sertlik-yumusaklik hissi degerlendirmeleri (1: çok sert, 2: sert, 3: orta, 4: yumusak, 5: çok yumusak) verilmektedir. Sekil 9tda yüzey pürüzlülügü degerlendirmeleri (1: çok pürüzlü, 2: pürüzlü, 3: orta, 4: düzgün, 5: çok düzgün) verilmektedir. Bulusun Detayli Açiklamasi Bu detayli açiklamada, bulusa konu olan denim kumasin tercih edilen yapilanmalari, sadece konunun daha iyi anlasilmasina yönelik olarak açiklanmaktadir. Bulus, dokunsal ve vücut hareket konfor özelliklerine sahip pamuk, elastan ve soya protein lifi karisimi içeren bir denim kumas ile ilgilidir. Bulus, dokunsal ve vücut hareket konfor özelliklerine sahip denim kumas ile ilgilidir. Bulus konusu denim kumas, pamuk, elastan ve soya proteini liflerinin karisimi içermektedir. Bulusun tercih edilen bir uygulamasinda atki ipliginde, agirlikça %79 pamuk, %15 soya protein ve %6 elastan bulunmaktadir. Bulusta konu olan kumasta, elastan orani, agirlikça % 2-3 araliginda olup, tercihen °/02,dir. Söz konusu kumasta atki ipliginde %6 elastan orani kullanilarak kumas içindeki elastan orani arttirilmistir. Bu oranin tercih edilmesinin nedeni denim kumastan yapilacak vücuda oturan giysilerde hareket konforu açisindan %45,in üzerinde esnekligin saglanmasidir. Bulusa konu olan kumasta, pamuk orani, agirlikça % 75-95 araliginda olup, tercihen %93,5,dir. Söz konusu kumasta soya protein elyaf orani, agirlikça % 4-25 araliginda olup, tercihen 4,5*tir. Bu oran belirlenirken soya protein elyafinin fiziksel, kimyasal ve teknik özellikleri dikkate alinmistir. Buna göre istemde belirtilen oranlar %100 pamuk denim kumasa göre karsilastirmali testlerin sonuçlarina göre belirlenmistir. Bulusta kullanilan soya protein elyafinin özelligi: Lif numarasi 1,5 denye Lif uzunlugu: 38 mm seklindedir. Asagidaki tabloda Ne 16 numarada %79 pamuk-%15 soya protein- %6 elastan karisimi atki ipliginin özellikleri verilmektedir. Düzgünsüzlük (%U) 9,27 -%50 Ince Yer (sayi/km) 0 +%50 Ince Yer (sayi/km) 16 +% 200 neps (sayi/km) 2 +% 280 neps (sayi/km) 2 Indeks 1,76 Iplik Tüylülügü (H) 6,74 Iplik Tüylülügü (sh) 1,34 Kopma Uzamasi (%) 9,32 Iplik Mukavemeti (rkm) 15,04 B-Force 544,32 Kumaslara yapilan yikama islemleri ve uygulanan kimyasallar, asagidaki tabloda verilmektedir. Proses Adim Islem Sartlari Süre Sicaklik Kimyasallar Kimya Ard Islem (dk.) (OC) sal -- Dispergatör 1 g/I . o" 10 50 °c Kirik Onleyici 0,5 g/I Duru'afna Rinse yikama 1 dk sogukta Kurutma 40 80 CC - - Sprey sonrasi Sicak enzim 0,5 g/I Enzim o Dispergatör 1 g/I Durulama Enzim Yikama 40 4060 C Islatic_i_ 0,5 g/I 1 dk sogukta Yikama Kirik Onleyici 0,5 g/I Kurutma i?) 80 CC - - Sprey sonrasi Sicak enzim 1g/I Durulama Tas 40- o Dispergatör 0,5 g/I v yikama 60 40'60 C Islatici 0,5 g/I .Itadktîrîigigretrange Tas+ Ponza tasi 10 kg s Enzim Durulam Yikama a 1 Sogukta - - - Kurutma 40 80 C - - Spray sonrasi v 0 Hypo 2 g/I Durulama Agartm Agartma 15 40'60 C 1 dk sogukta a Nötraliza - Sülfit 2 g/I Durulama syon 5 Sogukta 1 dk sogukta Kurutma ::g 80 °C - - Spray sonrasi Bulusa konu olan denim kumasin üretim yönteminde, ilk olarak, tercihen agirlikça % 79 pamuk, çözgü ipligi üretilmektedir. Çözgü ipligi tercihen %100 pamukludur. Bahsedilen atki ve çözgü ipIikIerinden denim kumas üretilmekte ve son olarak yikma makinelerinde denim yikanmaktadir. dokunmustur. Atki ipligi; iplik üretim tesislerinde tercihen agirlikça %79 pamuk, %15 soya protein Iifi ve%6 eIastan Iifi karisim oranlarinda ürettiriImistir. Bulusun tercih edilen bir uygulamasinda, öncelikle Ne 9,97/1 Ring Santuklu çözgü ipligi üretilmis ve çözgü ipliklerinin halat formunda boyama islemi yapilmistir. Daha sonra boyanmis çözgü ipIikIeri tekrar haIat açma islemine tabi tutulmus bunun sonrasinda çözgü ipIikIeri belirli bir hasiI reçetesi kullanilarak hasiIIanmistir. Ne 16/1 ((%85 pamuk+%15 soya protein) +78 Dtex ELS) atki ipligi kullanilarak kumaslar önceden belirlenen atki ve çözgü sikliginda 3/1 Z ve 3/1 8 olmak üzere iki farkli dokuma yönünde dokunmustur. Dokuma islemi sonrasi kumaslara yakma, hasiI sökme- merserizasyon- yikama- kurutma, apre-fiksaj ve son olarak sanfor islemleri uygulanmistir. Dokunan ve terbiye isleminden geçirilen soya atki ipligi karisimina sahip kumaslar son olarak dört farkli yikama islemine tabi tutulmustur. Bu yikama islemleri agartma yikama, enzim yikama, rinse yikama ve tas yikama islemlerini içermektedir. Bulusta uygulama sirasinda yikama sartlarina, sicakliklara ve yikama reçetelerinde belirtilen miktarlara dikkat edilmesi saglanmalidir. Aksi halde kumasin performans ve dokunsal özelliklerinde degisiklikler meydana gelebilir. Ayrica yikama islem adimlarindaki siraIama mevcut prosedürde verilen adimlara dikkat edilerek yapilmalidir. Kumaslarin dokunsal konfor özelliklerini belirlemek amaciyla objektif test yöntemlerinden sikistiriIabiIirIik, dökümIüIük, yüzey pürüzIüIügü ve kayma direnci testleri uygulanmistir. Kumaslarin dokunsal konforunun sübjektif olarak belirlenmesi için 30 katilimciya anket uygulamasi yapilmistir. Katilimcilardan kumaslari görmeden sadece dokunarak, 5 noktali skala kullanarak sicak-soguk hissi, genel tutum degeri, pürüzIüIük ve sertIik-yumasaklik açisindan degerlendirmeleri istenmistir. Pamuk, soya protein ve elastan atki ipligi ve %100 pamuk ve elastan atki ipligi ile dokunan denim kumaslarin dokunsal konfor özellikleri açisindan karsilastirilmasi asagida verilmektedir. Esneklik Özelligi: Sekil 1,de %100 pamuk ve pamuk/ soya karisimli atki ipligi ile dokunan kumaslarin atki yönündeki esneklik özellikleri verilmektedir. Kumas yapisinda atki yönünde %2 elastan kullanimi ile °A›45,in üzerinde esneklik degerleri elde edilmistir. Sikistlrllabilirlik Özelligi: Sekil ?de %100 pamuk ve pamuk / soya karisimli atki ipligi ile dokunan kumaslarin sikistlrllabilirlik özellikleri verilmektedir. Sikistlrllabilirlik davranisi, kumasin yapisal stabilitesi açisindan önemli rol oynar. Atki yönünde pamuk ve soya/elastan iplik kullaniminin tas yikama islemi disinda genel olarak sikistlrllabilirlik özelligini arttirmlstlr. Yapilan degerlendirmede kumas yapisina soya protein lifinin ilavesi ile istatistiksel olarak sikistlrllabilirlik özelliginde anlamli bir fark yarattigi belirlenmistir (p<0,05). Dökümlülük Özelligi: Sekil Bide %100 pamuk ve pamuk /soya karisimli atki ipligi ile dokunan kumaslarin dökümlülük özellikleri verilmektedir. Yapilan degerlendirmede kumas yapisinda pamuk ve soya protein/elastan atki iplik kullaniminin kumaslarin dökümlülük özelliklerinde istatistiksel olarak anlamli bir fark yarattigi belirlenmistir (p<0,05). Yüzey Pürüzlülügü: Sekil 4,de %100 pamuk ve pamuk/ soya karisimli atki ipligi ile dokunan kumaslarin yüzey pürüzlülügü özellikleri verilmektedir. Ra (Ortalama Mutlak Sapma); yüzey profilinde kaydedilen sapma degerlerinden elde edilen mutlak sapma degerlerinin aritmetik ortalamasldlr. Yapilan istatistiksel degerlendirmede pamuk ve soya protein atki ipligiyle dokunmus kumaslarin yüzey pürüzlülük degerleri daha düsük (düzgün) elde edilmistir (p<0,05). Kayma Direnci: Sekil 5lte %100 pamuk ve pamuk/ soya karisimli atki ipligi ile dokunan kumaslarin kayma diranci özellikleri verilmektedir. Yapilan istatistiksel degerlendirmede pamuk ve soya protein atki ipligiyle dokunmus kumaslarin kayma direnci degerleri daha yüksek elde edilmistir (p<0,05). Kumas Sübiektif Dokunsal Konfor Sonuçlari: Sicak-Soguk Hissi: Sekil Gida kumaslarin sicak-soguk his degerlendirmeleri (1: soguk, 2: serin, 3: nötr, 4: ilik, 5: sicak) verilmektedir. Kumaslarin sicak soguk hissi degerlendirildiginde genel olarak serin- nötr araliginda yer aldiklari görülmektedir. Pamuk ve soya atki ipligi S- yönlü dokuma kumaslarin degerinin nötr'e daha yakin hissedildigi görülmüstür Kumas Tutum Skalasi: Sekil 7,de kumaslarin tutum hissi degerlendirmeleri (1: çok kötü, 2: kötü, 3: orta, 4: iyi, 5: çok iyi) verilmektedir. Pamuk ve soya atki karisimli iplikle dokunan kumaslarin sübjektif tutum degerlerinin %100 pamuk ile dokunan kumaslardan daha yüksek olarak degerlendirildigi görülmüstür. Kumaslarin Sertlik-Yumusaklik Degerlendirmesi: Sekil 8ide sertlik-yumusaklik hissi degerlendirmeleri (1: çok sert, 2: sert, 3: orta, 4: yumusak, 5: çok yumusak) verilmektedir. Yapilan subjektif degerlendirmeler sonucunda pamuk ve soya atki ipligi ile dokunan denim kumaslar %100 pamuk atki ipligi ile dokunan kumaslara göre daha yumusak bulunmustur. Kumas Yüzey Pürüzlülügü Degerlendirmesi: Sekil 9ida yüzey pürüzlülügü degerlendirmeleri (1: çok pürüzlü, 2: pürüzlü, 3: orta, 4: düzgün, 5: çok düzgün) verilmektedir. Pamuk ve soya atki karisimli iplikle dokunan kumaslarin sübjektif tutum degerlerinin %100 pamuk ile dokunan kumaslardan daha yüksek olarak degerlendirildigi görülmüstür. TR DESCRIPTION WOVEN DENIM FABRIC AND PRODUCTION METHOD Technical Field The invention relates to denim fabric with tactile and body movement comfort properties. Known Status of the Technique In recent years, both consumers and large denim manufacturers have tended to use natural fibers in denim fabric, with the influence of rapidly changing trends. In addition, it has been observed that the importance of clothing comfort and related fabric properties has increased in clothing preferences. In this context, features of fabrics and the clothes produced from them, such as providing sensory and physiological comfort, dimensional stability, freedom of movement, heat and moisture permeability, come to the fore. Tactile comfort is the result of the sensations felt at the moment of direct contact of the body with the textile surface. This includes factors that negatively affect clothing comfort, such as the softness of the fabric felt as a result of contact, the freedom of movement it provides, and the stinging, itching, and sticking that occur during contact. These feelings; It is directly related to the properties of the fabric such as surface smoothness, weight, softness, density and rigidity. Tactile comfort can be mentioned if a textile product allows freedom of movement, takes the shape of the body when desired, and does not impose too much load on the body. This situation comes to the fore especially in body-fitting clothes (trousers, shirts, etc.). Denim fabrics are fabrics whose warp is made of 100% cotton yarn and the weft is made of cotton or its mixtures (polyester, tencel, modal, etc.), generally in a D3/1 or D2/1 weave structure. While the weft threads are used undyed (raw color), they get their color from indigo dyed warp threads. Denim fabrics have very limited stretching properties due to the cotton fiber and weaving structure used in their structure. Although some flexibility is provided by adding synthetic fibers to the weft yarn, it is not sufficient. For this reason, the elasticity properties of fabrics are increased by using elastane in the weft. The stretching properties of fabrics vary depending on whether they provide comfort flexibility and mobility flexibility. In fabric structures that provide comfort and flexibility, approximately 25-30% flexibility may be sufficient. However, in body-fitting clothes (such as trousers), 2-3% elastane is generally used in the structure of the fabric. The documents identified in the patent and literature research conducted regarding the known state of the art are summarized below. It involves obtaining a more flexible and curled yarn with the additional twist resulting from double twist instead, and improving the stretch feature by using these yarns. It involves eliminating the cold feeling that denim fabric gives when first worn in cold and humid weather by using Angora rabbit fiber in varying proportions between 10 and 100 mm, and producing products that can be easily worn in cold weather thanks to the high heat retention feature of Angora Fiber. The patent application with application number TR 2016/06169 is related to thermal denim fabric with towel layer, denim fabric layer and lamination material, which provides thermal insulation in the cold winter months and enables the production of anti-sweating, breathable and anti-bacterial clothes. The patent application with publication number CN214983784 U includes a layered fabric structure consisting of a main fabric layer and a breathable, moisture-transmitting and antibacterial layer adhered to its outer side. The skin-friendly layer contains chitosan fibers and soybean protein fibers, and the breathable moisture-transmitting layer consists of a colored cotton fiber layer. The thickness of the breathable moisture-conducting layer is 0.5-1.5 times the thickness of the base material layer. The structure subject to the document is a layered structure and does not include tactile comfort features. It's about fabric. Although soy, elastane and cotton content is disclosed in this application, specific proportions are not given. Additionally, tactile comfort features are not mentioned. As a result, due to the negativities described above and the inadequacy of existing solutions on the subject, it has become necessary to make a development in the relevant technical field. Purpose of the Invention The present invention relates to a woven denim fabric and production method that meets the above-mentioned requirements, eliminates all disadvantages and brings some additional advantages. The invention is inspired by current situations and aims to solve the drawbacks mentioned above. The main purpose of the invention is to obtain denim fabric containing a mixture of cotton, elastane and soy protein fiber with tactile and body movement comfort properties. With the invention, by using different weft yarn composition in the classical denim fabric structure, denim fabric with high elasticity, body movement comfort and at the same time improved tactile comfort features is produced. Within the scope of the invention, a blend of cotton, soy protein fiber and elastane weft yarn was used in the weft yarn. By incorporating soy blend weft yarn into the structure, tactile comfort properties as well as thermal comfort of the produced denim fabrics are improved. Generally, denim fabrics are produced with 100% cotton or cotton elastane blend. This causes denim fabrics to be used in certain climatic conditions, but they are not preferred in cooler climatic conditions. The use of soy weft yarn in the structure also caused an improvement in the thermal properties of the fabric. Thus, the designed denim fabric structure will be able to be used in winter conditions. By using cotton and soy protein fiber blended weft yarn, soft, smooth and heat-retaining denim fabric has been obtained. Thus, thanks to the tactile comfort properties provided by Soy Fiber, the consumer can purchase the denim fabric by touching it, and the user can have tactile comfort in addition to thermal comfort. Additionally, within the scope of the invention, elastane thread was used along with soybean thread in the fabric structure. Thanks to the use of elastane in the fabric structure, the elasticity properties of the fabric have also been increased, thus increasing the body movement comfort properties of the fabric in the garment form. In the invention, preferably 6% elastane is used in the weft thread in the denim fabric structure. The denim fabric in question is; It has smoother, softer and better handle properties due to the 15-50% soy protein fiber mixture used in the yarn structure. In the invention, 15% soy fiber was used in the weft yarn, thus ensuring that the total soy fiber rate in the fabric was around 4%. In different embodiments of the invention, the rate of soybean usage in the weft yarn can be increased up to 50°A›, and the rate of soybean fiber in the entire fabric structure can be increased up to 15%. In addition, soy protein fiber can be used in the warp yarn. Why the ratios to be preserved in the application were chosen is explained based on the test results in the Detailed Description of the Invention section. The structural and characteristic features and all the advantages of the invention will be more clearly understood thanks to the figures given below and the detailed explanation written by making references to these figures, and therefore the evaluation should be made taking these figures and detailed explanation into consideration. Figures to Help Understand the Invention Figure 1 shows the elasticity properties of fabrics woven with 100% cotton and cotton and soy blended weft yarn. Shape ? Compressibility properties of fabrics woven with 100% cotton and cotton and soy blended weft yarn are given. Figure 3 shows the drape properties of fabrics woven with 100% cotton and cotton and soy blended weft yarn. Figure 4 shows the surface roughness characteristics of fabrics woven with 100% cotton and cotton and soy blended weft yarn. Figure Site Slip resistance properties of fabrics woven with 100% cotton and cotton and soy blended weft yarn are given. Figure: Hot-cold feeling evaluations of food fabrics (1: cold, 2: cool, 3: neutral, 4: warm, 5: warm) are given. In Figure 7, the handle feeling evaluations of the fabrics (1: very bad, 2: bad, 3: average, 4: good, 5: very good) are given. Figure 8 gives the hardness-softness feeling evaluations (1: very hard, 2: hard, 3: medium, 4: soft, 5: very soft). Surface roughness evaluations (1: very rough, 2: rough, 3: medium, 4: smooth, 5: very smooth) are given in Figure 9. Detailed Description of the Invention In this detailed explanation, the preferred embodiments of the denim fabric that is the subject of the invention are explained only for a better understanding of the subject. The invention relates to a denim fabric containing a blend of cotton, elastane and soy protein fiber with tactile and body movement comfort properties. The invention relates to denim fabric with tactile and body movement comfort properties. The denim fabric of the invention contains a mixture of cotton, elastane and soy protein fibers. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the weft yarn contains 79% cotton, 15% soy protein and 6% elastane by weight. In the fabric that is the subject of the invention, the elastane ratio is in the range of 2-3% by weight, preferably °/02. In the fabric in question, the elastane rate in the fabric was increased by using 6% elastane in the weft thread. The reason why this ratio is preferred is that it provides over 45% flexibility in terms of movement comfort in body-fitting clothes made of denim fabric. In the fabric subject to the invention, the cotton ratio is between 75-95% by weight, preferably 93.5%. The soy protein fiber ratio in the fabric in question is between 4-25% by weight, preferably 4.5*. While determining this ratio, the physical, chemical and technical properties of soy protein fiber were taken into account. Accordingly, the rates specified in the claim have been determined according to the results of comparative tests for 100% cotton denim fabric. Feature of the soy protein fiber used in the invention: Fiber number is 1.5 denier. Fiber length: 38 mm. The table below gives the properties of the weft thread, which is a blend of 79% cotton-15% soy protein-6% elastane, size Ne 16. Irregularity (%U) 9.27 -50% Fine Ground (n/km) 0 +50% Fine Ground (n/km) 16 +200% neps (n/km) 2 +280% neps (n/km) 2 Index 1.76 Yarn Hairiness (H) 6.74 Yarn Hairiness (sh) 1.34 Breaking Elongation (%) 9.32 Yarn Strength (rkm) 15.04 B-Force 544.32 Washing processes and chemicals applied to the fabrics, are given in the table below. Process Step Processing Conditions Time Temperature Chemicals Chemistry Post Treatment (min.) (OC) sal -- Dispergator 1 g/I . o" 10 50 °c Anti-Crack 0.5 g/I Rinse wash 1 min cold Drying 40 80 CC - - After spray Hot enzyme 0.5 g/I Enzyme o Dispergator 1 g/I Rinse Enzyme Wash 40 4060 C Wet_i_ 0.5 g/I 1 min cold washing Anti-crease 0.5 g/I Drying i?) 80 CC - - After spray Hot enzyme 1g/I Rinsing Stone 40- o Dispergator 0.5 g/I v washing 60 40'60 C Wetting agent 0.5 g/I . Itadktîrîiggretrange Stone+ Pumice stone 10 kg s Enzyme Rinse Washing a 1 In cold - - - Drying 40 80 C - - After spray v 0 Hypo 2 g/I Rinse Bleach Bleach 15 40'60 C 1 minute in cold a Neutralize - Sulphite 2 g/I Rinse 5 In cold 1 minute in cold Drying ::g 80 °C - - After spray In the production method of the denim fabric that is the subject of the invention, firstly, warp thread, preferably 79% cotton by weight, is produced. The warp yarn is preferably 100% cotton. Denim fabric is produced from the mentioned weft and warp yarns and finally the denim is washed in the washing machines. The weft yarn is preferably mixed with 79% cotton, 15% soy protein fiber and 6% elastane fiber by weight. It has been produced. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, firstly, Ne 9.97/1 Ring Santul warp yarn was produced and the warp yarns were dyed in rope form. Then, the dyed warp threads were subjected to the unwinding process again, and then the warp threads were processed using a specific harvesting recipe. Using Ne 16/1 ((85% cotton + 15% soy protein) +78 Dtex ELS) weft yarn, the fabrics were woven in two different weaving directions, 3/1 Z and 3/1 8, at predetermined weft and warp density. After the weaving process, burning, disassembly-mercerization-washing-drying, finishing-fixing and finally sanforizing processes were applied to the fabrics. Fabrics with soy weft yarn blend, which were woven and finished through the finishing process, were finally subjected to four different washing processes. These washing processes include bleach washing, enzyme washing, rinse washing and stone washing processes. During the application of the invention, attention should be paid to the washing conditions, temperatures and quantities specified in the washing recipes. Otherwise, changes may occur in the performance and tactile properties of the fabric. In addition, the order of the washing process steps should be done by paying attention to the steps given in the current procedure. In order to determine the tactile comfort properties of fabrics, objective test methods such as compressibility, drape, surface roughness and slip resistance tests were applied. A survey was administered to 30 participants to subjectively determine the tactile comfort of fabrics. Participants were asked to evaluate the fabrics in terms of hot-cold sensation, general handle value, roughness and hardness-softness, by touching them without seeing them and using a 5-point scale. The comparison of denim fabrics woven with cotton, soy protein and elastane weft yarn and 100% cotton and elastane weft yarn in terms of tactile comfort features is given below. Elasticity Feature: Figure 1 shows the flexibility properties in the weft direction of fabrics woven with 100% cotton and cotton/soy blended weft yarn. By using 2% elastane in the weft direction in the fabric structure, elasticity values above °A›45 were achieved. Compressibility Feature: Shape ? Compressibility properties of fabrics woven with 100% cotton and cotton / soybean blended weft yarn are given. Compressibility behavior plays an important role in the structural stability of the fabric. The use of cotton and soy/elastane yarn in the weft direction generally increased the compressibility feature, except for the stone washing process. In the evaluation, it was determined that the addition of soy protein fiber to the fabric structure created a statistically significant difference in the compressibility feature (p<0.05). Drape Feature: In the figure, the drape properties of fabrics woven with 100% cotton and cotton/soy blended weft yarn are given. In the evaluation, it was determined that the use of cotton and soy protein/elastane weft yarn in the fabric structure created a statistically significant difference in the drape properties of the fabrics (p<0.05). Surface Roughness: Figure 4 shows the surface roughness characteristics of fabrics woven with 100% cotton and cotton/soy blended weft yarn. Ra (Mean Absolute Deviation); It is the arithmetic average of the absolute deviation values obtained from the deviation values recorded in the surface profile. In the statistical evaluation, the surface roughness values of the fabrics woven with cotton and soy protein weft yarn were obtained lower (smoother) (p<0.05). Slip Resistance: Figure 5 shows the slip resistance properties of fabrics woven with 100% cotton and cotton/soy blended weft yarn. In the statistical evaluation, higher slip resistance values of fabrics woven with cotton and soy protein weft yarn were obtained (p<0.05). Fabric Subjective Tactile Comfort Results: Hot-Cold Feeling: Figure Hot-cold feeling evaluations of food fabrics (1: cold, 2: cool, 3: neutral, 4: warm, 5: hot) are given. When the hot and cold sensations of fabrics are evaluated, it is seen that they are generally in the cool-neutral range. It has been observed that the value of cotton and soybean weft yarn S-directional woven fabrics is felt closer to neutral. Fabric Attitude Scale: Figure 7 shows the attitude feeling evaluations of the fabrics (1: very bad, 2: bad, 3: medium, 4: good, 5: very good) is provided. It was observed that the subjective attitude values of fabrics woven with cotton and soy weft blended yarn were evaluated higher than those woven with 100% cotton. Hardness-Softness Evaluation of Fabrics: Figure 8 gives hardness-softness feeling evaluations (1: very hard, 2: hard, 3: medium, 4: soft, 5: very soft). As a result of subjective evaluations, denim fabrics woven with cotton and soy weft yarns were found to be softer than fabrics woven with 100% cotton weft yarns. Fabric Surface Roughness Evaluation: Figure 9 shows surface roughness evaluations (1: very rough, 2: rough, 3: medium, 4: smooth, 5: very smooth). It has been observed that the subjective attitude values of fabrics woven with cotton and soy weft blended yarn are evaluated higher than those of fabrics woven with 100% cotton. TR

Claims (12)

1.IISTEMLER Dokunsal ve vücut hareket konfor özelliklerine sahip bir denim kumas olup, özelligi; o pamuk, soya proteini lifi ve elastan lifi içermesi, o söz konusu kumasta soya protein elyaf oraninin agirlikça % 4-25 araliginda olmasi, o söz konusu kumasta elastan oraninin, agirlikça % 2-3 araliginda olmasi, o söz konusu kumasta pamuk oraninin, agirlikça % 75-95 araliginda olmasidir.1.CLAIMERS It is a denim fabric with tactile and body movement comfort features, and its feature is; o It contains cotton, soy protein fiber and elastane fiber, o The soy protein fiber ratio in the said fabric is between 4-25% by weight, o The elastane ratio in the said fabric is between 2-3% by weight, o The cotton ratio in the said fabric is between 2-3% by weight It is between 75-95%. 2.Istem 1,e uygun bir denim kumas olup, özelligi; söz konusu kumasta soya protein elyaf oraninin agirlikça % 4,5 olmasidir.2. It is a denim fabric in accordance with claim 1, and its feature is; The soy protein fiber ratio in the fabric in question is 4.5% by weight. 3.Istem 1,e uygun bir denim kumas olup, özelligi; söz konusu kumasta elastan oraninin, agirlikça %2 olmasidir.3. It is a denim fabric in accordance with claim 1, and its feature is; The elastane rate in the fabric in question is 2% by weight. 4.Istem 1,e uygun bir denim kumas olup, özelligi; söz konusu kumasta pamuk oraninin, agirlikça %93,5 olmasidir.4. It is a denim fabric in accordance with claim 1, and its feature is; The cotton ratio in the fabric in question is 93.5% by weight. 5.Istem 1,e uygun bir denim kumas olup, özelligi; atki ipliginde agirlikça %79 pamuk, %15 soya protein lifi ve %6 elastan lifi içermesidir.5. It is a denim fabric in accordance with claim 1, and its feature is; The weft yarn contains 79% cotton, 15% soy protein fiber and 6% elastane fiber by weight. 6.Istem 1,e uygun bir denim kumas olup, özelligi; Ne 9,97 Ring %100 pamuk çözgü ipligi ve Ne 16/1 (pamuk/soya protein) ve 78 dtex elastan corespun karisimi atki ipliginden D3/1 örgüsünde dokunmus olmasidir.6. It is a denim fabric in accordance with claim 1, and its feature is; It is woven in D3/1 weave from Ne 9.97 Ring 100% cotton warp yarn and Ne 16/1 (cotton/soy protein) and 78 dtex elastane corespun blended weft yarn. 7.Istem 1,e uygun bir denim kumas olup, özelligi; Ne 9,97 Ring %100 pamuk çözgü ipligi ve Ne 16/1 (pamuk/soya protein) ve 78 dtex elastan corespun karisimi atki ipliginden D2/1 örgüsünde dokunmus olmasidir.7. It is a denim fabric in accordance with claim 1, and its feature is; It is woven in D2/1 weave from Ne 9.97 Ring 100% cotton warp yarn and Ne 16/1 (cotton/soy protein) and 78 dtex elastane corespun blended weft yarn. 8.Istem 1,e uygun bir denim kumas olup, özelligi; kullanilan soya protein elyafinin özelligi: lif numarasinin 1,5 denye , lif uzunlugunun 38 mm olmasidir.8. It is a denim fabric in accordance with claim 1, and its feature is; The feature of the soy protein fiber used is: fiber number is 1.5 denier and fiber length is 38 mm. 9.Istem 1,e uygun bir denim kumas üretim yöntemi olup, özelligi; 0 Pamuk, soya protein lifi ve elastan lifi içeren atki ipligi üretilmesi, 0 Pamuk, soya protein lifi içeren çözgü ipligi üretilmesi, o Bahsedilen atki ve çözgü ipliklerinden denim kumas üretilmesi, o Elde edilen denim kumasin yikanmasi islem adimlarini içermesidir.9. It is a denim fabric production method in accordance with claim 1, and its feature is; It includes the process steps: 0 Production of weft yarn containing cotton, soy protein fiber and elastane fiber, 0 Production of warp yarn containing cotton and soy protein fiber, o Production of denim fabric from the mentioned weft and warp yarns, o Washing of the resulting denim fabric. 10. Istem 9,a uygun bir denim kumas üretim yöntemi olup, özelligi; atki ipliiginin % 79 pamuk, %15 soya protein ve %6 eIastan içermesidir.10. It is a denim fabric production method in accordance with claim 9, and its feature is; The weft yarn contains 79% cotton, 15% soy protein and 6% elastane. 11. Istem 9,a uygun bir denim kumas üretim yöntemi olup, özelligi; çözgü ipliginin %100 pamuklu olmasidir.11. It is a denim fabric production method in accordance with claim 9, and its feature is; The warp thread is 100% cotton. 12. Istem 9*a uygun bir denim kumas üretim yöntemi olup, özelligi; çözgü ipigininin soya protein Iifi içermesidir. TR12. It is a denim fabric production method in accordance with claim 9, and its feature is; The warp yarn contains soy protein Iifi. TR
TR2023/010621 2023-08-29 WOVEN DENIM FABRIC AND PRODUCTION METHOD TR2023010621A2 (en)

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