RU2794594C2 - Moisturizing cream and lotion - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: personal hygiene.

SUBSTANCE: composition for personal care contains from 3 to 6 wt.% softener; from 1.5 to 3 wt.% softening wax; an emulsifier, the emulsifier being cetyl phosphate; gelling agent and water; wherein the composition for personal care contains ingredients in the following mass ratios: a) gelling agent/emulsifier: from 1 to 0.5; b) gelling agent/softener: from 1 to 0.02; and c) wax/softener: 0.5 or less.

EFFECT: invention provides excellent moisturizing properties.

5 cl, 2 dwg, 5 tbl, 22 ex

Description

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a personal care composition having excellent moisturizing properties, slipperiness and pumping speed.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Humectants are mixtures of chemical agents specially designed to soften the outer layers of the skin or hair. Personal care compositions having moisturizing properties are known. Consumers expect such compositions to satisfy a number of requirements. In addition to the skin/hair care effects that determine their intended use, various parameters such as dermatological compatibility, appearance, organoleptic feel, storage stability and ease of use are considered important.

US Patent Publication No. 20150190321 to Cognis discloses that a blend of 1:1 to 1.3.1 w/w mono- and dialkyl esters of glycerol has the emulsifying and body-building properties described therein.

U.S. Patent Publication No. 20100297044 to Cognis describes mixtures of emulsifiers that contain: (a) 0.1 to 60% by weight of a fatty alcohol or mixture of fatty alcohols, (b) 30 to 97% by weight of an ethoxylated fatty alcohol, or mixtures of ethoxylated fatty alcohols, (c) from 0.1 to 20 wt.% dialk(en)yl ether, dialk(en)yl carbonate or a mixture of these components and (d) less than 10 wt.% water.

US Pat. No. 8,765,967 issued to DSM describes sunscreen compositions that contain: (i) cosmetic excipients and additives and (ii) microcapsules with a UV filter function obtained by the sol-gel method. The referenced document describes that the sol-gel process involves the emulsification of crosslinkable monomers, preferably silanes with and without UV filter function, under high shear forces in an aqueous solution containing surfactants. such as cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and the like, and/or protective colloids such as PVP (polyvinylpyrrolidone), PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) and the like, which help to stabilize the emulsion.

US Pat. No. 6,395,260 issued to Haarmann & Reimer GmbH discloses skin whitening compositions containing benzaldoximes.

Bayer US Patent Publication No. 20030171617 describes the use of 3,4-dihydroxymandelic acid alkylamides as antioxidants.

European patent No. EP2545901B1 issued to Henkel describes a skin care composition containing a polymer derived from at least one acid-containing monomer, which is methacrylic acid, and at least one N-alkyl (meth)acrylamide monomer, and the acid-containing monomer is present in an amount of from 5 to 35 weight percent of the total monomer content in the polymer, and while N-alkyl (meth)acrylamide monomer is present in an amount of from 27 to 88 percent of the total weight of the monomer content in the polymer; and at least one sunscreen active.

There is a need for personal care compositions that meet a range of consumer needs.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The personal care composition according to the present invention contains the following ingredients:

softener, preferably coconut oil glyceride, about >0% to about 10%, preferably about 2% to about 6%; more preferably from about 3 to about 6%;

softening wax, preferably cetyl alcohol, from about >0% to about 8%, preferably from about 1% to about 4%; more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3%;

an emulsifier, preferably cetyl phosphate, from about 0.2% to about 1.4%, preferably from about 0.4% to about 1.4%; more preferably from about 0.5% to about 0.6%;

gelling agent, preferably carbomer, from about 0.4% to about 0.6%, preferably from about 0.4% to about 0.55%; And

about 60% to about 90% water.

For clarity and to avoid confusion between "softener" and "softening wax"; in many parts of the present description "softening wax" is called "wax".

The ingredients are present in the personal care composition of the present invention in the following ratios:

A) gelling agent/emulsifier: 1 to 0.5;

B) gelling agent/softener: 1 to 0.02; And

C) wax/softener: 0.5 or less.

The personal care composition may be a lotion or cream. The lotion is a low viscosity topical preparation intended for application to the skin. On the contrary, the cream has a higher viscosity. The viscosity value acceptable to the consumer is in the range from 950 mPa.s to 1600 mPa.s for lotions and from 1400 mPa.s to 4800 mPa.s for creams.

The lotion according to the present invention may contain the following ingredients:

softener, about 4%;

softening wax, about 2%;

emulsifier, about 0.5%; And

gelling agent, about 0.4%.

The cream according to the present invention may contain the following ingredients:

softener, about 6%;

wax, about 3%;

emulsifier, about 0.6%; And

gelling agent, about 0.55%.

DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES

On FIG. 1 is a graph showing the values of slipperiness in relation to the amount of gelling agent and the amount of emulsifier.

On FIG. 2 is a graph showing the average pumping speed in relation to the amount of gelling agent and the amount of softener.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Moisture can be retained in the skin by applying a product to its surface, which blocks the exit of water. Ingredients that help create a barrier on the surface of the skin include petroleum jelly, high concentrations of glycerin or other silicones, dimethicone, and mineral oil. The addition of a barrier also helps to create conditions in which dry skin recovers faster and protects the skin from irritants or other harmful materials. Some moisturizing products contain synthetic biomimetic lipids that penetrate the stratum corneum and fill voids that lack skin lipids. These naturally occurring synthetic lipids mimic skin lipids by attracting water to the skin and helping to maintain the proper balance of oil and water in the skin.

Personal care compositions used to treat dry skin typically contain ingredients that compensate for dehydration by increasing the amount of water present in the stratum corneum. Such personal care compositions contain lipophilic wetting agents that inhibit water loss through occlusion. Suitable lipophilic moisturizing agents include polyols such as glycerol or glycols, or substances that protect the hydrolipidic film of the skin by preventing water evaporation through a barrier effect, including hydrocarbon substances such as liquid petroleum. However, the hydration provided by polyols is time limited, and it takes time for the barrier agents to form. Humidifiers can also be used to increase the moisture content of the skin. Humidifiers are ingredients, such as glycerin, that attract, retain, and retain moisture from the air. Unfortunately, such moisturizing techniques only lead to temporary relief of dry skin. More favorable treatments are those that restore and/or enhance the function of the skin barrier, as a result of which the skin remains more hydrated for a longer time and the skin has a revitalizing effect. A healthy skin barrier retains moisture and higher levels of hydration.

From a scientific point of view, skin hydration occurs due to stimulation of epidermal differentiation and maturation of the stratum corneum. The proliferation of keratinocytes in the stratum basale, the innermost layer of the skin, gradually differentiates as it passes through the spinous layer and the granular layer. During this keratinization process, keratinocytes produce natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) and lipids (ceramides, cholesterols and fatty acids) and form the stratum corneum, thereby promoting healthy skin barrier function and therefore hydrated skin that is less prone to irritation and the effects of aging. Thus, keratinocyte differentiation can provide skin hydration and resistance to skin irritation, inflammation and/or aging while providing the epidermis with the necessary cells and constituents to promote healthy skin barrier function and associated effective water control. Thus, methods for inducing differentiation of keratinocytes in the epidermis would be highly desirable for counteracting dehydration, dry skin conditions, the effects of aging, irritated and inflamed or otherwise sensitive skin.

One way of moisturizing the skin includes controlling the semi-permeability or water-holding capacity of the skin by enhancing the function of the epidermal barrier and renewing. The semi-permeability of the skin, in turn, plays a key role in moisturizing and protecting the skin. However, this semi-permeability can be affected by external damage and/or internal factors leading to a dry and/or sensitive skin condition. Thus, in addition to moisturizing, to effectively promote healthy skin barrier function, it is also necessary to control the inflammation and irritation that can occur, which in turn promotes healthy skin.

Obviously, the internal or endogenous mechanism for maintaining skin hydration lies mainly in the optimal barrier function. The function of the skin barrier plays a key role in protecting the body from water loss and environmental aggression. Altered skin barrier function increases transepidermal water loss and leads to skin dryness and flaking, inflammation and injury.

A good humectant should: (i) enhance keratinocyte differentiation to provide the skin with the necessary cells and constituents to increase water content in the various skin layers of the epidermis and stratum corneum, (ii) increase the transport of water, water channel proteins and natural moisturizing factors that are involved in stimulation effectively control water content, and (iii) maintain an optimal balance of skin lipids by increasing the synthesis of new lipids. The personal care composition of the present invention can provide such functions.

DEFINITIONS

Naturally occurring skin lipids and sterols, as well as artificial or natural oils, humectants, emollients, lubricants, etc., may be part of the composition of commercially available personal care skin moisturizers.

A "softener" is an additive that has the quality of softening or soothing the skin. Emollients are basically complex mixtures of chemical compounds that hold water in the skin after application and help to smooth the skin. Emollients increase the hydration (water content) of the skin by reducing evaporation. Preferred emollients are coconut oil glycerides, which are mixtures of mono-, di-, and triglycerides derived from coconut oil.

A "softening wax" or "wax" is an additive that (1) has softening properties; (2) has an oil base; (3) is solid at room temperature. A preferred emollient wax is cetyl alcohol, palmitate/ether fatty alcohol, also known as hexadecan-1-ol or palmityl alcohol. Other examples include petroleum jelly and silicone-derived ingredients such as cyclomethicone.

An "emulsifier" is an additive that stabilizes a mixture of two or more liquids that do not normally mix. An example of an emulsifier is Emulsiphos®, a potassium salt of a complex mixture of esters of phosphoric acid and cetyl alcohol, manufactured by Symrise GmbH & Co., Holzminden, Germany.

A "gelling agent" is an additive that can form a polymeric gel composition by crosslinking or neutralization. Gelling agents can also stabilize emulsions, form gels, increase viscosity, and so on. Examples of gelling agents include polyacrylate (such as carbomer) and polysaccharide (such as cellulose). A preferred gelling agent is a carbomer, which is a polymeric chemical composed of acrylic acid monomers.

Unless otherwise stated herein, all percentages (%) are given in weight percent.

In accordance with the present invention, these amounts and ratios of ingredients are used to impart the desired properties to the personal care composition.

Quantity of ingredients

On the amount of ingredients in the compositions having the features of the invention, the authors of the present invention made the following conclusions:

Softener (coconut oil glyceride). When using a softener from 0.1% to 2%, the softening effect was low. When using a softener from 2% to 6%, good softening properties were observed. When used from 6% to 10% softener, the composition produced an oily feel.

Wax (cetyl alcohol). When used >0% to 1% wax, the composition showed low consistency (on the body). When using wax from 1% to 4%, the composition showed a good consistency (on the body). When using wax from 4% to 8%, the composition showed an even higher consistency (on the body), but may crystallize depending on the fatty phase of the composition (see ratio C below).

Emulsifier (potassium cetyl phosphate). When using from 0.2 to 0.4% of the emulsifier observed the risk of destabilization of the emulsion (and hence the composition). When using an emulsifier from 0.4 to 1.4%, the composition showed good emulsion stability.

Gelling agent (carbomer). When using carbomer in an amount of 0.2 to 0.3%, the composition was not sufficiently viscous, too fluid. When using carbomer in an amount of from 0.3% to 0.6%, the composition had an average viscosity. When using carbomer in an amount of from 0.6 to 1.4%, the composition was very viscous.

The ratio of ingredients

About the ratio of ingredients, the authors of the present invention made the following conclusions:

Ratio A) gelling agent/emulsifier: 1 to 0.5.

This ratio affects the slipperiness of the composition. The term "slipperiness" means the degree to which the composition easily glides or causes slip due to hydration, smoothness or oiliness when applied to the skin. It is preferred that consumers have a product with a slipperiness in the range of 6-9.5 as described in the examples below, in particular for the texture of a hydrating cream to be applied to the skin and rubbed to penetrate it.

It has been noted that slipperiness can be controlled by the proportions and amounts of gelling agent and emulsifier. Slipperiness decreases as the amount of gelling agent increases. Slipperiness increases as the amount of emulsifier increases. It has been found that the best ratio to provide the desired lubricity while allowing the ingredients to impart their respective properties to the composition is in the range of 1 to 0.5. This unexpected effect was observed experimentally (see examples below). The inventors have found that the effect of the two ingredients on slipperiness is not the same and that at some point the effect of the gelling agent outweighs the effect of the emulsifier. It has been found that the ratio between gelling agent and emulsifier should be in the range of 1 to 0.5 to maintain satisfactory lubricity.

Ratio B) Gelling agent/softener: 1 to 0.02.

This ratio affects the pumping speed of the composition. The term "pumping speed" means the amount of product that can be removed from its packaging (for example, from a bottle using a pump). It is desirable that the consumer have a product with the highest possible pumping rate, preferably greater than 82% for a lotion. In the case of a cream, the packaging is different (eg jar) and the consumer has access to the entire product. It has been noted that this parameter can be controlled with the gelling agent and softener. The pumping speed decreases as the amount of gelling agent increases. The pumping speed decreases as the amount of softener is increased. It has been found that the best ratio to provide the desired pumping speed while allowing the ingredients to impart their respective properties to the composition is in the range of 1 to 0.02. This unexpected effect was observed experimentally (see examples below).

Ratio C) Wax/softener: less than or equal to 0.5.

This ratio affects the stability of the composition. The wax is essential for the formation of the lamellar structure, but it must also be dissolved to prevent crystallization and destabilization of the composition. It has been found that the proper amount of softener to dissolve the wax is at least 2 times the amount of wax used.

Additional ingredients.

The personal care composition may also contain additional ingredients commonly used in moisturizing compositions. For example, the composition may contain glycerin; preferably from about 5% to about 10%. The composition may also contain a preservative (phenoxyethanol; ethylhexylglycerin). The composition may also contain an absorbent (corn starch). The composition may also contain one or more diluents. Suitable diluents include water.

Comparative examples

The compositions in table 1, table 2 and table 3 were prepared as follows:

Water, disodium EDTA, and Carbopol Ultrez 10 were added to the main vessel.

Care was taken to ensure sufficient dispersion of Carbopol and then heated to 80 °C.

Glycerol was added and the temperature was controlled (80°C).

Emulsiphos 977660, Myritol 331 and Lanette16 were added.

Controlled that Emulsiphos was completely melted: emulsion phase 15 minutes at 80 °C.

Neutralized with an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide, p-anisic acid to the target pH=5.6.

Cooling to 35°C was started.

When the temperature reached 40°C, Euxyl PE9010 was optionally added followed by cornstarch.

It was checked that there was a good dispersion of purity and pH. If necessary, the pH was adjusted with NaOH to pH=5.6.

Myritol 331 (coconut oil glyceride) available from BASF.

Carbopol® Ultrez 10 (carbomer) available from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc., Cleveland, Ohio, USA.

Emulsiphos 977660 (Potassium Cetyl Phosphate) available from Symrise GmbH & Co.

Lanette16 (cetyl alcohol) available from BASF.

Euxyl PE9010 (phenoxyethanol; ethylhexylglycerin) available from Elton Chemicals S.A.

Measurements and observations were made for the compositions of Examples 1 to 16 as shown in the description below.

Table 1 - Comparative Examples 1-5

Comparison composition Comparison composition Comparison composition Comparison composition Comparison composition Name according to INCI (EU) Function Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Water Base solution 69.512 78.312 87.512 78.312 67.112 Carbomer (Carbopol® U10) Gelling agent 0.2 1.4 0.2 0.2 1.4 Potassium cetyl phosphate; hydrogenated palm oil glycerides Emulsifier 0.2 0.2 0.2 1.4 1.4 cetyl alcohol Softener (wax) 8 8 0 8 8 Coconut Oil Glycerides (Myritol® 331) softener 10 0 0 0 10 Glycerol humidifier 10 10 10 10 10 Disodium salt EDTA Chelating agent 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 p-anisic acid masking agent 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Sodium hydroxide pH regulator 0.188 0.188 0.188 0.188 0.188 Phenoxyethanol; Ethylhexylglycerin preservative 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 Corn starch; Water absorbent 1 1 1 1 1 Ethylhexylglycerin promotes/increases safety 0 0 0 0 0 100 100 100 100 100 Ratio A: Gelling agent/emulsifier 1.00 7.00 1.00 0.14 1.00 Ratio B: Gelling agent/softener 0.02 N/A N/A N/A 0.14 Ratio C: Wax/softener 0.80 N/A N/A N/A 0.80 pH 5.52 5.43 5.41 5.87 5.53 Viscosity 434 10700 14.6 1240 14100 pumping out 90.1 40.4 93.3 76.6 - Density 1.2 6.8 0.1 2.7 8.6 slipperiness 5.2 3.3 8.9 6.8 4.7 Braking 5.1 6.8 0.4 3.5 6.2

Table 2 - Comparative Examples 6-11

Comparison composition Comparison composition Comparison composition Comparison composition Comparison composition Comparison composition Name according to INCI (EU) Function Example 6 Example 7 Example 8 Example 9 Example 10 Example 11 Water carrier medium 78.312 76.312 76.312 76.312 67.112 76.312 Carbomer (Carbopol® U10) gelling agent 0.2 0.2 1.4 1.4 1.4 0.2 Potassium cetyl phosphate; hydrogenated palm oil glycerides emulsifier 1.4 1.4 0.2 0.2 1.4 1.4 cetyl alcohol Softener (wax) 8 0 0 0 8 0 Coconut Oil Glycerides (Myritol® 331) softener 0 10 10 10 10 10 Glycerol humidifier 10 10 10 10 10 10 Disodium salt EDTA chelating agent 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 p-anisic acid masking agent 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Sodium hydroxide pH regulator 0.188 0.188 0.188 0.188 0.188 0.188 Phenoxyethanol; Ethylhexylglycerin preservative 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 Corn starch; Water absorbent 1 1 1 1 1 1 Ethylhexylglycerin promotes/increases safety 0 0 0 0 0 0 100 100 100 100 100 100 Ratio A: Gelling agent/emulsifier 0.14 0.14 7.00 7.00 1.00 0.14 Ratio B: Gelling agent/softener N/A 0.02 0.14 0.14 0.14 0.02 Ratio C: Wax/softener N/A 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.80 0.00 pH 5.26 5.62 5.4 5.49 5.42 5.78 Viscosity 1040 41.6 8530 7630 13200 58 pumping out 79.5 93.2 30.3 36.1 15.8 93.1 Density 4.7 0.3 5.9 5.9 9 0.3 slipperiness 6.8 8.0 5.3 4.8 3.8 8.6 Braking 4.1 0.9 4.7 5.6 6.6 1.8

Table 3 - Comparative Examples 12-17

Comparison composition Comparison composition Comparison composition Comparison composition Comparison composition Comparison composition Name according to INCI (EU) Function Example 12 Example 13 Example 14 Example 15 Example 16 Example 17 Water carrier medium 85.112 85.112 87.512 78.312 69.512 77.312 Carbomer gelling agent 1.4 1.4 0.2 1.4 0.2 0.8 Potassium cetyl phosphate; hydrogenated palm oil glycerides emulsifier 1.4 1.4 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.8 cetyl alcohol Softener (wax) 0 0 0 8 8 4 coconut oil glycerides softener 0 0 0 0 10 5 Glycerol humidifier 10 10 10 10 10 10 Disodium salt EDTA chelating agent 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 p-anisic acid masking agent 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Sodium hydroxide pH regulator 0.188 0.188 0.188 0.188 0.188 0.188 Phenoxyethanol; Ethylhexylglycerin preservative 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 Corn starch; Water absorbent 1 1 1 1 1 1 Ethylhexylglycerin promotes/increases safety 0 0 0 0 0 0 100 100 100 100 100 100 Ratio A: Gelling agent/emulsifier 1.00 1.00 1.00 7.00 1.00 1 Ratio B: Gelling agent/softener N/A N/A N/A N/A 0.02 0.16 Ratio C: Wax/softener N/A N/A N/A N/A 0.80 0.8 pH 5.43 5.49 5.5 5.52 5.46 5.44 Viscosity 6900 7730 18 12000 469 5650 pumping out 56.4 49.6 93.3 44.9 90.1 Density 6.2 5.3 0.1 7.9 1.5 7.1 slipperiness 4.9 5.4 7.9 3.1 5.2 5.3 Braking 5.0 5.2 0.8 7.1 5.3 4.6

Working examples in accordance with the present invention.

The compositions shown in Table 4 were prepared as described above. Measurements and observations were made for the compositions of Examples 17 to 21 as shown in the description below.

Table 4 - Inventive Examples 18-22

Invention Invention Invention Invention Invention Name according to INCI (EU) Function Example 18 Example 19 Example 20 Example 21 Example 22 Water Base solution 82.312 86.012 77.762 85.762 77.512 Carbomer gelling agent 0.5 0.4 0.55 0.4 0.55 Potassium cetyl phosphate; hydrogenated palm oil glycerides Emulsifier 0.6 0.5 0.6 0.5 0.6 cetyl alcohol Softener (wax) 1.5 2 3 2 3 coconut oil glycerides softener 3 4 6 4 6 Glycerol Humidifier 10 5 10 5 10 Disodium salt EDTA Chelating agent 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.2 0.2 p-anisic acid masking agent 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Sodium hydroxide pH regulator 0.188 0.188 0.188 0.188 0.188 Phenoxyethanol; Ethylhexylglycerin preservative 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 Corn starch; Water absorbent 1 1 1 1 1 Ethylhexylglycerin promotes/increases safety 0 0 0 0.2 0.2 100 100 100 100 100 Ratio A: Gelling agent/emulsifier 0.83 0.80 0.92 0.80 0.92 Ratio B: Gelling agent/softener 0.17 0.10 0.09 0.10 0.09 Ratio C: Wax/softener 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Viscosity 2440 1553 2947 1553 2947 pumping out N/A ¹ 83.9 N/A 83.9 N/A Density 3.0 2.1 3.3 2.1 3.3 slipperiness 9.1 9.3 9.0 9.3 9.0 Braking 1.2 1.0 1.4 1.0 1.4

1 N/A pumping speed values are due to the difference between cream and lotion. The pumping speed is applicable only for lotions (package equipped with a pump).

Measurements and observations

Slipperiness (Ratio A)

To evaluate the creams and lotions obtained in accordance with the invention, you can use organoleptic tests, as described below.

The slipperiness characteristic of the perceived skin feel of the compositions having the features of the invention can be assessed by ten trained tasters. Each taster should follow the protocol below:

1. Apply 0.07 ml to the back of the hand and smear it with 2 fingers (index and middle fingers).

2. Assess slipperiness during application after 2 circular application movements.

"Slipperiness" when applying a composition is determined based on how the product feels to the taster after two circular motions when applied with a finger to the back of the hand. Each taster notes the ease of moving a finger across the surface of the hand. The scale is from 0 to 10; 0 is not slippery and 10 is very slippery. The slipperiness value acceptable to the consumer is in the range from 6.5 to 9.5.

As shown in FIG. 1, the graph in Fig. 1 is based on the average values of slipperiness for comparative examples 1 to 16; in relation to their content of Carbopol® U10 (gelling agent) and Emulsiphos® (emulsifier). For example, the slipperiness for 0.2% Carbopol® U10 and 0.2% Emulsiphos® is the average of the slipperiness in comparative examples 1, 3, 14 and 16. The vertical axis represents the amount of slipperiness. The horizontal axis shows two types of formulations: on the left are formulations containing 0.2% Carbopol® U10; and on the right are formulations containing 1.4% Carbopol® U10. Round dots indicate the value estimated for formulations containing 0.2% emulsifier (Emulsiphos®). The square dots indicate the value estimated for formulations containing 1.4% emulsifier (Emulsiphos®). The two dots on the left of the graph represent the slipperiness for the two low gelling agent formulations (0.2%); a square represents a composition with a high content of emulsifier (1.4%), a circle represents a composition with a low content of emulsifier (0.2%). The two dots on the right side of the graph represent slipperiness for the two high gelling agent formulations (1.4%); a square represents a composition with a high content of emulsifier (1.4%), a circle represents a composition with a low content of emulsifier (0.2%). The solid line connects the points representing experiments with low emulsifier content (0.2%). The dashed line connects the dots representing experiments with high emulsifier content (1.4%). Surprisingly, the two lines were found to intersect even though they should be somewhat parallel. Surprisingly, a composition containing a high amount of gelling agent and a low content of emulsifier (round dot on the right side of the graph) was found to be lower relative to its high emulsifier equivalent. This means that, contrary to what is expected for a composition containing a high amount of gelling agent, slipperiness will be higher if the composition contains more emulsifying agent.

Pumping speed (B ratio)

A user-acceptable pumping rate should be at least about 82%. This applies in particular to lotions due to the influence of the packaging used for this type of composition (eg a bottle equipped with a pump). The pumping speed is obtained from an automatic compression test using a TA-XT texture analyzer.

The automatic compression test is performed as follows: 300 pump actuation cycles are performed by an automated system (TA-XT texture analyzer). The automatic system moves the pump mechanism up and down at a speed of 10 mm/s with a stroke of 17 mm. The pumping speed is calculated as the change in weight of the product in a 250 ml package, expressed as a percentage, between the initial weight (before 300 cycles) and the final weight (after 300 cycles). A pumping speed of 100% means that all product has been removed from the package; with a pumping rate of 50% meaning that half of the product was recovered.

On FIG. 2 is a graph showing the average pumping speeds for Comparative Examples 1 to 16; in relation to their content of Carbopol® U10 (gelling agent) and Myritol® 331 (softener). For example, the pumping rate for 0.2% Carbopol® U10 and 10% Myritol® 331 is the average of the pumping rates for examples 1, 7, 11, and 16. The vertical axis is the pumping rate, 100 means all product was recovered from the package; conversely, 20 means that only 20% of the product was recovered. The horizontal axis shows two types of formulations: on the left are formulations containing 0.2% Carbopol® U10; and on the right are formulations containing 1.4% Carbopol® U10. The square dots indicate the values estimated for the composition containing 10% softener (coconut oil glyceride); Round dots indicate values for compositions that do not contain softener. The two dots on the left of the graph represent the pumping rates for the two formulations containing low gelling agent content (0.2%); the square represents the composition with softener (10%), the circle represents the composition without softener. The two dots on the right side of the graph represent the pumping rates for two formulations having a high gelling agent content (1.4%); the square represents the composition with softener (10%), the circle represents the composition without softener. The solid line connects the points representing experiments without softener. The dashed line connects the dots representing experiments with 10% softener. Surprisingly, the two lines were found to intersect even though they should be somewhat parallel. Surprisingly, it was found that the composition containing a high amount of gelling agent and softener (square dot on the right of the graph) is lower in relation to its equivalent without softener. This means that, contrary to what is expected for a composition containing a low amount of gelling agent, the pumping speed will be better if the composition contains a softener.

Braking and Density

For examples 1-17 used a group of tasters in accordance with the following methodology. The same methodology can be used to evaluate the inventive creams and lotions of Examples 18-22.

Organoleptic test - Application braking performance protocol: Apply 0.07 ml to the back of the hand and smear it with 2 fingers (index and middle fingers). Measure the rate of appearance of the braking effect (friction) when distributing the product over the skin (20 circular movements are applied in total on the back of the hand). This test must be performed by a group of 10 trained tasters. A group of tasters notes the number of circular movements they make until a braking effect (friction) is observed. The scale is from 0 to 10 (0 is high friction and 10 is no friction). Acceptable braking value for the consumer is in the range from 1 to 5.

Sensory Test - Density Characterization Protocol: Open the product in the jar. Assess the resistance of the product when inserting the index finger into the vessel. This test must be performed by a group of 10 trained tasters. The scale is from 0 to 10 (0 is loose (i.e. water) and 10 is very dense (i.e. jelly)). The density value acceptable for the consumer is in the range from 1.5 to 5.

Viscosity

The viscosity value acceptable to the consumer is in the range from 950 mPa.s to 1600 mPa.s for lotions and from 1400 mPa.s to 4800 mPa.s for creams. Viscosity can be measured with an Anton Paar MCR 301 rheometer using the following protocol:

1. Adjust to 20°C for 120 s. No shear rate.

2. 3 measurements every 10 s at 5 s ^-1 .

3. 9 measurements every 4 s increasing from 5 s ^-1 to 45 s ^-1 .

4. 2 measurements every 5 s at 45 s ^-1 .

5. The value recorded for the viscosity is the second value at 45 s ^-1 .

Based on the measurements and panel of tasters described above, the appearance of the personal care composition for Inventive Examples 18-22 can be observed as indicated in Table 5 below:

Table 5

Composition Is the appearance of the product acceptable? Aspect Example 1 No Very runny with grains Example 2 Yes Thick and matte emulsion Example 3 No Phase separation, precipitation Example 4 No translucent, grain Example 5 No Thick with lots of grains Example 6 No Cetyl alcohol grains Example 7 No phase separation Example 8 Yes Smooth and thick white emulsion Example 9 No Grains from Carbopol® U10 Example 10 No White and thick emulsion with many grains Example 11 No phase separation Example 12 Yes translucent gel Example 13 Yes Thick translucent gel Example 14 No Phase separation, precipitation Example 15 No White and thick emulsion with many grains Example 16 No Very runny with grains Example 17 Yes Thick and matte emulsion Example 18 (invention) Yes Smooth and thick white emulsion (thick for a creamy texture) Example 19 (invention) Yes Smooth and liquid white emulsion (lotion texture liquid) Example 20 (invention) Yes Smooth and thick white emulsion (thick for a creamy texture) Example 21 (invention) Yes Smooth and thick white emulsion (thick for a creamy texture) Example 22 (invention) Yes Smooth and liquid white emulsion (lotion texture liquid)

Claims (15)

1. Composition for personal care, containing: from 3 to 6 wt.% softener; from 1.5 to 3 wt.% softening wax; an emulsifier, the emulsifier being cetyl phosphate; gelling agent; And water; wherein the composition for personal hygiene contains ingredients in the following mass ratios: a) gelling agent/emulsifier: 1 to 0.5; b) gelling agent/softener: 1 to 0.02; And c) wax/softener: 0.5 or less. 2. The personal care composition of claim 1 wherein the emollient is coconut oil glyceride. 3. The personal care composition of claim 1 wherein the emollient wax is cetyl alcohol. 4. The personal care composition of claim 1 wherein the gelling agent is a carbomer. 5. Personal care composition according to claim 1, wherein the personal care composition contains from 0.2 wt.% to 1.4 wt.%, preferably from 0.4 wt.% to 1.4 wt.%, more preferably from 0.5 wt.% to 0.6 wt.% emulsifier. 6. Personal care composition according to claim 1, wherein the personal care composition contains from 0.4 wt.% to 0.6 wt.%, preferably from 0.4 wt.% to 0.5 wt.% gelling agent.

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