RU2776796C1 - Method for primary hair bleaching - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetics.

SUBSTANCE: inventions group relates to the cosmetic field and concerns means and methods for bleaching hair. The lightening composition for hair includes a dye of the 9th-10th row, a bleaching powder and an oxidizing agent in the following ratio of components, wt.%: dye of the 9th-10th row - 16.7-22.2%, bleaching powder - 11.1-16.7%, oxidizing agent - 61.1-72.2%, where the oxidizing agent is used in concentrations of 1.5-9%. Also disclosed is a method for primary bleaching of hair.

EFFECT: inventions group ensures the preservation of hair quality during hair bleaching, as well as uniformity of bleaching from roots to tips, a convenient method of applying to hair.

2 cl, 7 ex

Description

The invention relates to the cosmetic field and relates to means and methods for bleaching hair.

The closest in technical essence is the method of bleaching hair with subsequent dyeing (RU 2688160, publ. 05/20/2019 Bull. No. 14), according to which the hair is pre-treated with warm water at a comfortable temperature to open the hair scales and impregnate the hair; then apply a bleaching paste along the entire length of wet hair, while applying the bleaching paste, the hair should always be saturated with warm water; periodically comb the hair with a comb, keep the bleaching paste on the water-soaked hair until the desired lightening background is reached, after which the hair is washed and dyed. The disadvantage of this method is the uneven background of lightening, since it is difficult to control the uniformity of the applied product layer on moistened hair; the required combing greatly damages the hair structure during the process; the bleaching paste becomes liquid, which leads to an unclean performance: there are splashes and drops of product around.

Known methods of staining, which regulates the application of the composition first to the length, then to the roots. At the same time, a stress zone always remains - the zone of conjugation of the roots with the length, where the hair begins to break over time.

The claimed invention is aimed at solving the problem of bleaching even the most fragile hair without damaging them, using the developed composition and bleaching method.

This problem is solved by the fact that the method of bleaching hair includes preparing the scalp by applying the cream over the entire scalp with massage movements, including the marginal hairline and behind the auricles; applying a clarifying composition from the roots down 1.5 cm from the scalp according to the distribution scheme “central parting - radial parting”, using 1.5% oxidizing agent; applying a brightening composition to the length of the hair of the lower occipital zone with horizontal partings, overlapping each strand with thermal paper, carefully impregnating it using an oxidizing agent with a concentration above 1.5%; applying a brightening composition to the length of the hair of the temporal zones with the lower strand horizontal parting, overlapping each strand with thermal paper, thoroughly impregnating using an oxidizing agent with a concentration above 1.5%; after the last applied strand, applying to each strand having an uneven layer of brightening composition applied to the length of the hair; holding the composition on the hair for 10 - 50 minutes with periodic visual control; washing off the clarifying composition from the hair and scalp with warm water at a temperature of 36-40 ° C; rinsing hair and scalp with acidic hair conditioner; applying a moisturizing or nourishing mask to the hair for 10-20 minutes to even out the cuticular layer; the implementation of hair tinting with an ammonia-free dye, while the brightening composition includes a dye of 9-10 rows, a bleaching powder and an oxidizing agent in the following ratio, wt. %:

- dye 9-10 row - 16.7 - 22.2%

- bleaching powder - 11.1 - 16.7%

- oxidizing agent - 61.1 - 72.2%,

where the oxidizing agent is used in concentrations of 1.5 - 9%.

The technical result provided by the given combination of features is the maximum preservation of the quality of the hair during bleaching (lightening, dyeing) of the hair, as well as the uniformity of bleaching from roots to ends, a convenient method of application to the hair.

The main problem with bleaching hair is its fragility, uneven lightening background, contact with previously bleached hair, which ultimately makes it impossible to create healthy light and shiny hair.

According to this invention, a combination of powder for bleaching is used, which contains persulfates and ammonia dye of the 9-10 series.

When bleaching hair, a brightening composition is used with the following content of ingredients:

- ammonia dye 9-10 row - 16.7 - 22.3%

- bleaching powder - 11.1 - 16.7%

- oxidizing agent - 61.1 - 72.2%.

The quantitative composition of the ingredients varies depending on the place of application (roots, length).

The specified composition does not dry out, does not crumble, the hair does not become dry and brittle under it, it is easily distributed and evenly penetrates into the layers of the cuticle. Thus, thanks to this composition, hair can be tinted in one step with an ammonia-free dye immediately in the desired color. The composition softens the effect on the hair and speeds up and simplifies the dyeing process.

This composition is suitable for working with any% of oxidizing agent (here means the percentage of pure hydrogen peroxide) according to the principle: 1.5% higher than with the usual choice of oxidizing agent when working with bleaching powder.

As a dye, any ammonia dye of the 9-10 series of any pigment content is used.

The proportions of "dye: powder" may change downwards in terms of the amount of bleaching product, but more powder than 1: 1 is not allowed. It is also possible to reduce the proportions with the oxidizing agent in the case of working in closed techniques under foil, such as highlighting and Airtouch, to achieve a denser and thicker mixture.

The lower the percentage of oxidant, the slower the lightening process and the less aggressive the product for the scalp and hair structure.

The pigment content of ammonia dyes does not matter, since when mixed with a bleaching powder, any pigment burns out.

The following are examples of the implementation of the composition for bleaching hair.

Example 1

The composition contains:

- ammonia dye 40 g (16.7%)

- bleaching powder 40 g (16.7%)

- oxidizing agent 160 g (66.6%).

Example 2

The composition contains:

- ammonia dye 40 g (22.2%)

- bleaching powder 20 g (11.1%)

- oxidizing agent 120 g (66.7%).

When choosing the concentration of the oxidizing agent, the following recommendations are used.

For primary blonding in contact with the scalp, it is necessary to use a 1.5% oxidizing agent, and the proportions of dye with powder should be 2:1. For example, 40 g of dye and 20 g of powder - this will provide a gentle effect on the scalp and slow down the lightening process on fast-lightening roots.

When lightening regrown roots, the maximum allowable concentration of the oxidizing agent in contact with the scalp is 6%. 3-4.5% oxidizing agent is used along the length of the hair, and 4.5-9% at the ends.

The method of primary bleaching of hair includes the following steps:

- preparation of the scalp by applying a cream based on moisturizing ingredients of plant origin (for example, mint, castor or coconut oil, for example, Wella professionals invigo Color service, revlon professional barrier crem, lebel cosmetics IAU Lycomint root suppli) all over the scalp with massage movements, including the marginal hairline and behind the auricles;

- application of a clarifying composition from the roots down 1.5 cm from the scalp according to the distribution scheme "central parting - radial parting", using 1.5% oxidizing agent;

- application of a clarifying composition (depending on the structure of the hair, hair length and tone level) on the length of the hair of the lower occipital zone with horizontal parting, overlapping each strand with thermal paper, thoroughly impregnating, using an oxidizing agent with a concentration above 1.5%;

- application of a clarifying composition to the length of the hair of the temporal zones is carried out with the same composition as on the back of the head, starting from the bottom strand with horizontal partings on the left, then on the right, covering each strand with thermal paper, thoroughly impregnating.

- after the last applied strand, additional application to each strand where there is an uneven layer of the composition;

- holding the composition on the hair for 10-50 minutes with periodic visual control;

- washing off the clarifying composition from the hair and scalp with warm water (water temperature on average 37-40 ° C);

- rinsing the hair and scalp with an acidic hair conditioner (balm rinse) for hair. An acidic conditioner (for example, VIENO hypoallergenic conditioner and BIO + Hydra Balance for dry and sensitive scalp; Wella Oil Reflections cleansing co-washing hair balm) immediately stops the alkaline reaction on the hair, blocking the process of discoloration and opening the scales of the cuticular layer of the hair. Promotes alignment of the hair structure before subsequent toning, for an even coverage of color;

- applying a moisturizing or nourishing mask to the hair for 10-20 minutes to smooth the cuticular layer;

- implementation of hair tinting with ammonia-free dye.

At all stages of staining for each zone (roots, length), a different lightening composition is used with the following mass ratio of ingredients,%:

- ammonia dye 9-10 row - 16.7 - 22.3%

- bleaching powder - 11.1 - 16.7%

- oxidizing agent - 61.1 - 72.2%.

Below are examples of the invention.

Example 1

The client, a woman Olga, has thin, porous, previously bleached hair at tone level 9-10, regrown roots of tone level 6, 1.5 cm. Hair length is 35 cm.

A cream based on mint oil was applied to the scalp.

Further, applying a clarifying composition to the hair roots down 1.5 cm from the scalp according to the distribution scheme "central parting - radial parting", using the composition in the following proportion: 30 g of ammonia dye 9/0 + 30 g of bleaching powder + 120 g of 3% oxidizer.

Then a composition was applied to the length of the hair with the following content of ingredients: 40 g of ammonia dye 9/0 + 20 g of bleaching powder + 120 g of 3% oxidizing agent.

Then the composition used for applying to the length was applied to each strand where there was an uneven layer.

Withstood after applying the composition of 20 minutes. Washing the composition from the hair. Apply conditioner and rinse. Then applying a moisturizing mask for 10 minutes, rinsing it off. At the end, tinting with ammonia-free dye.

Example 2

The client is a woman, Elizabeth. Fully natural long hair, straight, thin, at level 7, ends at tone level 8. Hair length 70 cm.

A cream based on coconut oil was applied to the scalp.

Next, applying a clarifying composition to the hair roots down 1.5 cm from the scalp according to the distribution scheme “central parting - radial parting”, using the composition in the following proportion: 40 g of ammonia dye 9/0 + 20 g of bleaching powder + 120 g 1, 5% oxidant.

Since the hair is very long, the brightening composition was applied in stages: to the length up to the shoulders, the length below the shoulders and the ends, using different compositions.

For shoulder length: 40 g of ammonia dye 9/0 + 40 g of bleaching powder + 160 g of 3% oxidizer.

For a length below the shoulders: 40 g of ammonia dye 9/0 + 40 g of bleaching powder + 160 g of 4.5% oxidizing agent.

For ends 15-20 cm: 40 g of ammonia dye 9/0 + 40 g of bleaching powder + 160 g of 6% oxidizing agent.

Then the composition was applied to each strand where there was an uneven layer.

Withstood after applying the composition of 30 minutes. The composition was washed off from the hair, followed by the application of a conditioner. Then a moisturizing mask was applied for 20 minutes, washing it off. In conclusion, there was hair tinting with ammonia-free dye.

Example 3

The client is a woman Christina. It has regrown roots at tone level 7 1.5 cm. Previously discolored length at tone level 8-9. Hair damaged, dry, hard. Hair length 45 cm.

A cream based on castor oil was applied to the scalp.

Further, applying a clarifying composition to the hair roots down 1.5 cm from the scalp according to the distribution scheme “central parting - radial parting”, using the composition in the following proportion: 30 g of ammonia dye 9/0 + 30 g of bleaching powder + 120 g of 3% oxidizing agent .

Since the hair is long, the brightening composition was applied in stages: to the length up to the shoulders, the length below the shoulders, using different compositions.

For shoulder length: 40 g of ammonia dye 9/0 + 40 g of bleaching powder + 160 g of 4.5% oxidizing agent.

For lengths below the shoulders: 40 g of ammonia dye 9/0 + 40 g of bleaching powder + 160 g of 6% oxidizing agent.

Then the composition was applied to each strand where there was an uneven layer.

Withstood after applying the composition of 15 minutes. The composition was washed off from the hair, followed by the application of a conditioner. Then a nourishing mask was applied for 20 minutes, washing it off. In conclusion, there was hair tinting with ammonia-free dye.

Example 4

The client is a woman Alena. Has natural hair of tone level 7-8 with previously bleached strands and ends of tone level 10. Very thin. Fragile. Hair length 50 cm.

A cream based on mint oil was applied to the scalp.

Further, applying a clarifying composition to the hair roots down 1.5 cm from the scalp according to the distribution scheme "central parting - radial parting", using the composition in the following proportion: 40 g ammonia dye 9/0 + 20 g bleaching powder + 120 g 1, 5% oxidant.

Since the hair is long, the brightening composition was applied in stages: to the length up to the shoulders, the length below the shoulders, using different compositions.

For shoulder length: 40 g of ammonia dye 9/0 + 40 g of bleaching powder + 160 g of 3% oxidizer.

The ends of the hair were not dyed at first. The total exposure time is 30 minutes.

In the last 15 minutes of the exposure time, a mixture was applied to the ends with a composition of 10 g of ammonia dye 9/0 + 10 g of bleaching powder + 40 g of 3% oxidizing agent.

The composition was washed off from the hair, followed by the application of conditioner. Then a nourishing mask was applied for 20 minutes, washing it off. In conclusion, there was hair tinting with ammonia-free dye.

Example 5

The client is a woman named Dana. It has regrown roots at the 6th tone level 4 cm. Previously dyed length at the 7th level. The ends are partially discolored up to tone level 10. The hair is thin. Hair length 35 cm.

A cream based on castor oil was applied to the scalp.

Further, applying a clarifying composition to the hair roots down 1.5 cm from the scalp according to the distribution scheme "central parting - radial parting", using the composition in the following proportion: 40 g ammonia dye 9/0 + 20 g bleaching powder + 120 g 1, 5% oxidant.

Since the hair is long, the brightening composition was applied in stages: to the length up to the shoulders, the length below the shoulders, using different compositions.

For shoulder length: 40 g of ammonia dye 9/0 + 40 g of bleaching powder + 160 g of 3% oxidizer.

For the length below the shoulders: 40 g of ammonia dye 9/0 + 40 g of bleaching powder + 160 g of 4.5% oxidizing agent.

Previously bleached ends were treated with a mixture of 3% for the last 15 minutes of curing.

Then the composition was applied to each strand where there was an uneven layer. The total exposure on the hair was 30 minutes. The composition was washed off from the hair, followed by the application of a conditioner. Then a nourishing mask was applied for 20 minutes, washing it off. In conclusion, there was hair tinting with ammonia-free dye.

Example 6

The client is a woman Natalia. Fully natural hair at tone level 7-8. Thin. Direct. Hair length 50 cm.

A cream based on coconut oil was applied to the scalp.

Next, applying a clarifying composition to the hair roots down 1.5 cm from the scalp according to the distribution scheme “central parting - radial parting”, using the composition in the following proportion: 40 g of ammonia dye 9/0 + 20 g of bleaching powder + 120 g 1, 5% oxidant.

Since the hair is long, the brightening composition was applied in stages: to the length up to the shoulders, the length below the shoulders and the ends, using different compositions.

For shoulder length: 40 g of ammonia dye 9/0 + 40 g of bleaching powder + 160 g of 4.5% oxidizing agent.

For the length below the shoulders: 40 g of ammonia dye 9/0 + 40 g of bleaching powder + 160 g of 6% oxidizing agent.

Then the composition was applied to each strand where there was an uneven layer.

Withstood after applying the composition of 20 minutes. The composition was washed off from the hair, followed by the application of a conditioner. Then a moisturizing mask was applied for 20 minutes, washing it off. In conclusion, there was hair tinting with ammonia-free dye.

This client underwent a trichological study. The results are presented in Table 1. The table shows that the structure of the hair after dyeing (bleaching) remained unchanged, which damages the technical result, namely, the preservation of hair quality during bleaching. It is also worth noting that the scalp after bleaching does not have peeling.

Example 7

The client - a woman Tasya has completely natural hair of 4-5 tone levels. Hair length 45 cm.

A cream based on mint essential oils was applied to the scalp.

Further, applying a clarifying composition to the hair roots down 1.5 cm from the scalp according to the distribution scheme “central parting - radial parting”, using the composition in the following proportion: 40 g of ammonia dye 9/0 + 20 g of bleaching powder + 120 g of 3% oxidizer.

Since the hair is long, the brightening composition was applied in stages: to the length up to the shoulders, the length below the shoulders and the ends, using different compositions.

For shoulder length: 40 g of ammonia dye 9/0 + 40 g of bleaching powder + 160 g of 6% oxidizer.

For a length below the shoulders: 40 g of ammonia dye 9/0 + 40 g of bleaching powder + 160 g of 9% oxidizing agent.

Then the composition was applied to each strand where there was an uneven layer.

Withstood after applying the composition of 40 minutes. Washing the composition from the hair. Apply conditioner and rinse. Then applying a moisturizing mask for 20 minutes, washing it off. At the end, tinting with ammonia-free dye.

The above examples are illustrative of the present invention and are in no way intended to limit the scope of the present invention.

Claims (17)

1. Lightening composition for hair, including dye 9-10 series, bleaching powder and oxidizing agent in the following ratio, wt.%: - dye 9-10 row - 16.7-22.2% - bleaching powder - 11.1-16.7% - oxidizing agent - 61.1-72.2%, where the oxidizing agent is used in concentrations of 1.5-9%. 2. The method of primary bleaching of hair, including: - preparation of the scalp by applying the cream all over the scalp with massage movements, including the marginal hairline and behind the auricles; - application of a clarifying composition from the roots down 1.5 cm from the scalp according to the distribution scheme "central parting - radial parting", using 1.5% oxidizing agent; - applying a brightening composition to the length of the hair of the lower occipital zone with horizontal partings, covering each strand with thermal paper, thoroughly impregnating it using an oxidizing agent with a concentration above 1.5%; - application of a clarifying composition to the length of the hair of the temporal zones with the lower strand horizontal parting, overlapping each strand with thermal paper, thoroughly impregnating using an oxidizing agent with a concentration above 1.5%; - after the last applied strand, additional application to each strand having an uneven layer of a clarifying composition applied to the length of the hair; - holding the composition on the hair for 10-50 minutes with periodic visual control; - washing off the clarifying composition from the hair and scalp with warm water at a temperature of 37-40 ° C; - rinsing the hair and scalp with an acidic hair conditioner; - applying a moisturizing or nourishing mask to the hair for 10-20 minutes to smooth the cuticular layer; - implementation of hair tinting with ammonia-free dye, in this case, the brightening composition according to claim 1 is used as a brightening composition.

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