RU2773599C2 - Method for making clothes from linen fabrics - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: clothing industry.

SUBSTANCE: invention relates to the clothing industry, namely the production of clothing from linen fabrics. The method for making clothes from linen fabrics includes cutting out the details of the product and sewing the semi-finished product by harvesting individual components of the product, finishing the semi-finished product by treating it in a washing machine with a solution of an anti-creasing composition. This is followed by drying the semi-finished product at a temperature of 80-100°C, ironing, assembly of knots and heat treatment with steaming at a temperature of 140-160°C for 2-4 minutes. At the same time, the anti-crease composition contains cellulase in an amount that provides the level of endoglucanase activity in a solution of 40–100 units/ml, a complexing agent in an amount of 1.5–2 g/l, and a buffer mixture to ensure pH 4.5–6.0 with the addition of aqueous polyurethane dispersion in the amount of 0.5-1.5 g/l at a temperature of 25-55°C for 40-120 minutes.

EFFECT: invention makes it possible to improve the elastic properties of flax fiber, to reduce the accumulation of irreversible deformation under cyclic loads, to increase the resistance to repeated non-oriented crushing, to reduce the loss of mechanical strength, to increase the range of reduction in the stiffness index of fabrics to ensure high-quality fit and forms of stability of the product, to expand the model range of manufactured clothing.

7 cl, 4 dwg, 1 tbl, 4 ex

Description

The invention relates to the clothing industry, namely the production of clothing from linen fabrics.

State of the art

Clothing made from linen fibers has a number of undeniable advantages, which include providing a comfortable microclimate due to high hygroscopicity, air and vapor permeability, resistance to harmful microorganisms and insects. The unique advantages of products made from flax fibers include the ability to soften the radiation background, partially extinguish harmful electromagnetic radiation emitted by household appliances (mobile phones, microwave ovens, etc.), effectively reflect ultraviolet rays that adversely affect the human body [https:/ /ecotek.spb.ru/novosti/ekologicheskie-svoystva-lna-i-lnyanyh-tkaney.html].

A significant disadvantage of linen fabrics, which reduces the technological and operational properties of linen clothing, is the low resistance of linen fiber to the action of crushing loads. Both during the production of linen products and during their subsequent wear by the consumer, creases, folds and wrinkles are easily formed on the material, which not only do not recover on their own after the load is removed, but often cannot be smoothed either with dry ironing or using steam. A presentable appearance of the product can be returned only with the help of washing (rinsing).

Methods for increasing the wrinkle resistance of textile materials and clothing made of cellulose fibers using preparations based on formaldehyde, aminoaldehyde resin precondensates have almost a century-old history [DE 713744C, cl. D06M 13/127 Appl. 10/25/1934, publ. 11/14/1941; GB 455472 A, cl. D06M 13/127 Appl. 06/13/1935, publ. 10/21/1936; US 2441859 A, cl. D06M 13/12 Appl. 06/12/1945, publ. May 18, 1948; DE 906326 C, cl. D06M 13/127 Appl. 06/11/1950, publ. 03/11/1954; US 2950553 A, cl. D06M 15/423, Appl. 01/16/1957, publ. 06/30/1960; SU 1838486 A3, class. D06M 15/423, D06M 101/06, Appl. 04/24/1991, publ. 08/30/1993 and others]. These classical methods are based on the mechanism of formation of chemical crosslinks between cellulose macromolecules. This prevents irreversible deformation of the textile material under the action of crushing loads while maintaining the changed state of the fiber due to the formation of multiple interchain hydrogen bonds in cellulose fibrils.

The main disadvantage of the known methods of increasing wrinkle resistance using formaldehyde-containing preparations is the toxicity of formaldehyde released during the sewing production and operation of clothing.

A large number of solutions are known that eliminate this disadvantage by using crosslinkers that do not contain formaldehyde or are modified to increase the stability of bound formaldehyde. Examples of such drugs are given in patents [US 5273549 A, class. D06M 13/288, Appl. 10/30/90, publ. 12/28/1993; US 5496476 A, cl. D06M 13/203, 12/21/1992, publ. 03/05/1996; US 5496477 A, cl. D06M 15/667, Appl. 12/21/1992, publ. 03/05/1996; US 5705475 A, cl. D06M 13/203 Appl. 12/21/1992, publ. 01/06/1998; US 5728771 A, cl. D06M 15/667, Appl. 12/21/1992, publ. 03/17/1998; US 5965517 A, cl. D06M 23/02 Appl. 07/09/1997, publ. 10/12/1999; US 6277152 A, cl. D06M 15/3564, Appl. 07/28/1999, publ. 08/21/2001; CA 1205607 A, cl. D06M 13/148, Appl. 08/27/1984, publ. 06/10/1986; SU 11009487 A, class. D06M 13/46, D06M 15/52, App. 12/16/1982, publ. 08/23/1984, RU 2235156 C1, class. D06M 15/39, D06M 10/08, Appl. November 25, 2002, publ. 08/27/2004; RU 2374370 C1, class. D06M 15/267, Appl. 06/02/2008, publ. 11/27/2009; RU 2080333 C1, class. C08G 12/12, Appl. 07/14/1993, publ. 05/27/97; RU 2084448 C1, class. C08G 12/12, Appl. 07/14/1993, publ. 07/20/97; RU 2480548 C2, class. D06M 15/00 Appl. 08/03/2011, publ. 02/10/2013; WO 2018026368 A1, class. D06B 7/00 Appl. 08/04/2016, publ. 02/08/2018; RU 2692495 C1, class. D06M 15/00 Appl. 12/11/2018, publ. 06/25/2019 and others].

However, the practice of using low-formaldehyde preparations has shown a lower efficiency in reducing the wrinkling of cellulose tissues, along with an increase in the cost of processing, compared with the use of precondensates of urea- and melamine-formaldehyde resins. Therefore, methods for treating textile materials with formaldehyde-containing crosslinking agents remain in demand, primarily for the treatment of cotton and viscose fabrics, and are further improved. Known, for example, a method of indelible finishing with amino aldehyde resin [RU 2037593 C1, cl. D06M 15/243, D06M 101/06, Appl. 01/29/1993, publ. 06/19/1995], in which sodium dithionite is used as an acceptor of free formaldehyde.

The use of cross-linking preparations to reduce the wrinkling of linen fabrics and clothing obtained from them is complicated by the higher stiffness of linen fiber compared to materials made from cotton or regenerated cellulose. Cross-linking of cellulose with finishing preparations additionally increases the stiffness of the linen material and worsens the recovery of folds. In this regard, in the production of linen clothing, technological options for “easy care” (“easy ironing”) treatments are implemented with a small amount of aminoaldehyde resins introduced, sufficient to eliminate wrinkles and folds when wet or when ironing the product [CN 109722884 A, Appl. 12/24/2018, publ. 05/07/2019]. For example, information has recently been published on methods for manufacturing wrinkle-resistant clothing from linen-containing fabrics, involving the additional introduction of a certain amount of special softening agents into the finishing composition based on urea-formaldehyde resins [CN 111074570 A, class. D06M 13/432 Appl. 10/19/2018, publ. 04/28/2020; CN 111074451 A, cl. D06B 3/30 Appl. 10/18/2018, publ. 04/28/2020; CN 111074603 A, class D06M 15/423, Appl. 10/18/2018, publ. 04/28/2020].

The use of softeners is also a known and widely used method for improving the wrinkle resistance of cellulosic textiles and clothing. The achieved effect is ensured by blocking the functional groups of cellulose and reducing the likelihood of the formation of interchain hydrogen bonds capable of fixing the structure of the fiber, transformed during crushing. For this purpose, surfactants based on polyhydroxyl compounds, quaternary ammonium compounds or silicone preparations are used.

In particular, there is a method of facilitating the removal of wrinkles from tissue by treatment with a water-alcohol solution containing glycerol and a non-ionic surfactant [US 4806254 A, class. D06M 23/06 Appl. 05/26/1987, publ. February 21, 1989]. Facilitating the care of the product, reducing wrinkles after drying and ease of ironing provides the use of compositions based on polyols, in particular esterified sugars [JP 2008512581 A, class. C11D 3/3719, Appl. 09/15/2004, publ. April 24, 2008]. It is known to use for the care of cotton and linen fabrics compositions containing anionic polygalactomannan [EP 1326952 A1, class. C11D 3/226, Appl. October 17, 2001, publ. 01.02.2008], or polysaccharides with 1,3-β-glycosidic bonds having a specific spherical structure [US 7012053 B1, class. C11D 17/047, Appl. 10/22/1999, publ. March 14, 2006].

A common disadvantage of the known methods using polyhydroxyl preparations is the ease of their washing out of the fibrous material and the need to reapply with each subsequent wash. For solving the problems of the present invention, information about improving the stability of the finish (removing wrinkles, reducing the formation of wrinkles, restoring wrinkles, etc.) when implementing the fabric care method developed by Procter and Gamble Co [CA 2346771 C, class. C11D 3/3738, Appl. 10/23/1998, publ. 04/10/2012]. It is based on the use of polysaccharides with a spherical structure and particle size from 2 nm to 300 nm, which makes it possible for them to penetrate and more firmly fix in the nanopore spaces of the fibrous material.

A composition for removing wrinkles and folds containing a quaternary ammonium surfactant based on vegetable oil and an anionic fluorosurfactant is described in the technical solution [US 5573695 A, class. D06M 23/06 Appl. December 19, 1995., publ. November 12, 1996]. Examples of quaternary ammonium surfactants for softening fabrics and improving care when washing products are disclosed in numerous technical solutions, for example [US 3861870 A, class. C08F 4/025 Appl. 05/04/1973, publ. 01/21/1975; US 4233164 A, cl. D06M 13/463, Appl. 06/05/1979, publ. 11/11/1980; US 4308151 A, cl. D06M 13/463, Appl. 05/12/1980, publ. 12/29/1981; US 4401578 A, cl. C11D 3/2013, Appl. 01/11/1979, publ. 08/30/1983; US 4237016 A, cl. C08B 15/06 Appl. 21/11/1977, publ. 12/02/1980; US 4661269 A, cl. C11D 3/0015, Appl. 03/28/1985, publ. 04/28/1987; US 5545340 A, cl. C11D 1/62, Appl. 03/01/1993, publ. 08/13/1996; US 5747443 A, cl. C11D 1/645, Appl. 07/11/1996, publ. May 5, 1998; US 5830845 A, cl. C11D 1/62, Appl. 03/22/1996, publ. 03.11.1998; US 10415004 B2, cl. C11D 3/001, Appl. 06/22/2011, publ. 09/17/2019 and others].

Among the shortcomings of the known methods of softening and increasing the crease resistance of textile materials using preparations based on quaternary ammonium compounds, insufficient washing resistance is noted, as well as undesirable yellowing of fabrics under relatively high alkaline washing conditions and relatively high post-drying temperatures. The elimination of yellowing provides a method for treating fibrous materials with a composition containing quaternary ammonium and amino-functional silicone [JP 5226782 B2, cl. C11D 3/001, Appl. 06/15/2007, publ. 07/03/2013]. The combination of ingredients in the fabric softener reduces yellowing and fading of the product, increases the protection against wrinkles, without adversely affecting the softness characteristics when using high-alkaline detergents.

Numerous information is known about the different forms and conditions for the use of silicone softening preparations. Silicones can be used in liquid lipophilic compositions [US 4855072 A, class. C11D 3/0015, Appl. 07/02/1987, publ. 08.08.1989] or in pre-emulsified form [US 20050015888 A1, cl. D06M 23/06 Appl. 10/27/1999, publ. 27.01.2005]. To increase substantivity to cellulose material, silicones can be modified with grafting of cationic functional groups [US 5098979 A, class. D06M 15/6436, Appl. 03/25/1991, publ. 03/24/1992; US 5196499 A, cl. D06M 15/6436, Appl. 03/25/1991, publ. 03/23/1993], or can be derivatized with reactive, curable groups that condense to form higher molecular weight silicones [US 4419391 A, class. D06M 15/6436, Appl. 03/31/1981, publ. 12/06/1983]. The latter options eliminate one of the disadvantages of using silicone preparations associated with the low resistance of the product to washing. But at the same time, another undesirable effect of processing is enhanced, which is expressed in the deterioration of the hydrophilicity of the material and the increase in its electrification.

Known methods for increasing the crease resistance of fabrics and products from them using non-ionic polymer latexes, for example [WO 2003006595 A1, class. C11D 17/0013, Appl. 07/10/2002, publ. 01/23/2003; FR 2813312 A1, cl. C11D 3/3757, Appl. 08/25/2000, publ. 01.03.2002]. Along with an increase in resistance to wrinkling during washing, there is an undesirable effect of worsening the moisture absorption of materials, which is necessary for clothing in contact with the human body. A compromise change in consumer properties is provided by the processing of linen with compositions of nanoparticles of polymer latex with a particle size of 10 to 500 nm, preferably from 20 to 50 nm [US 20040038851 A1, class. D06M 23/08, Appl. 08/22/2001, publ. February 26, 2004].

Thus, all types of chemical softeners of cellulose materials are characterized by the same mechanisms for preventing wrinkling due to the suppression of the processes of formation of interchain hydrogen bonds in cellulose and a more or less strongly manifested disadvantage associated with the washing out of reagents from the material during subsequent washings.

The increased stiffness and wrinkling of products made from linen fabrics compared to cotton or viscose materials is largely due to the higher degree of polymerization and the degree of crystallinity of linen pulp. It is known that the destruction of cellulose under conditions of alkaline washing of linen products and, especially, under intense mechanical stress, in particular, using the “stone wash” method (washing with stones) helps to soften the material [http://www.e-maika.com /varka.html].

Known methods for obtaining the effects of permanent (wash-resistant) softening of linen fabrics due to the enzymatic effect on the polymer components of flax fiber, in particular, contributing to the catalytic degradation of cellulose. A comprehensive study of changes in the structure, stiffness and strength properties of linen materials under the action of enzyme preparations of cellulase action is presented in [Golovina L.A. Development and theoretical substantiation of the technology for the final finishing of linen fabrics using biopreparations based on cellulase / Diss. … Ph.D. M.: MTGU, 2007. 166 p.; https://www.dissercat.com/content/razrabotka-i-teoreticheskoe-obosnovanie-tekhnologii-zaklyuchitelnoi-otdelki-lnyanykh-tkanei-]. It is shown that a controlled change in the technological parameters of biomodification makes it possible to achieve a technologically significant decrease in tissue stiffness in combination with an inevitable, but acceptable level of reduction in tensile strength and abrasion. It was found that the composition based on Cellusoft APL (Novozymes, Denmark) has a milder effect, and an undesirable decrease in strength is observed more significantly when treated with domestic preparations Celloviridin G2x and Celloviridin G20x. This may be due to the complex multicomponent composition of the polyenzyme composition of domestic drugs, illustrated, in particular, in [Barysheva N.V. Development of the basics of the enzymatic technology of decoction of cotton fabrics / Diss. … Ph.D. - M.: RosZITLP, 2006. 179 p.; https://www.dissercat.com/content/razrabotka-osnov-fermentativnoi-tekhnologii-otvarki-khlopchatobumazhnykh-tkanei].

Known information about the use of cellulase preparations Enzitex (OOO Ferment, Belarus) and Bactosol (f. Archroma Management GmbH, Switzerland) for softening and improving the drapeability of linen fabrics [Ryklin D.B., Xiaotong T. Evaluation of the drapeability of pure linen linen fabrics weaves // Bulletin of the Vitebsk State Technological University, 2019, No. 1, pp. 103-110; https://doi.org/10.24411/2079-7958-2019-13611]. Changes in the wrinkle resistance of linen fabrics under these conditions were not analyzed.

Known enzymatic method of the final softening finish of linen fabrics using a composition of carbohydrases that do not contain cellulolytic enzymes [EN 2372429 C1, class. D06M 16/00, 101:06; C12S 3/06 Appl. 05/19/2008, publ. November 10, 2009]. The polyenzymatic preparation contains in certain proportions the enzymes endopolygalacturonase, endoxylanase, α-L-arabinofuranosidase, exoxylosidase, exogalactosidase and exoglucanase, as well as pectinesterase, exopolygalacturonase and endogalactanase, which act on the polymer satellites of flax cellulose. Their destruction provides an increase in the mobility of the fibrillar structure of the flax fiber and the possibility of mechanical destruction of the fibrils on the surface of the fabric during subsequent processing of the fabric on the needle pile equipment. The method makes it possible to reduce the value of the index of the bending stiffness of the fabric by 3.5-5 times compared to the level of the index for the original fabric, simultaneously with an increase in the strength of the material.

However, the use of linen fabrics treated with chemical softeners or enzymatic softening in the clothing industry causes a number of difficulties that complicate the technological process. An increase in the smoothness of the fibrous material leads to displacement of the fabrics in the flooring on cutting equipment and a deterioration in the accuracy of cutting clothing parts, and an increase in the mobility of threads in the weave structure manifests itself in increased deformation of the fabric along the seam lines.

There is information about the use of enzymatic softening methods in the processing of ready-made clothes made from unsoftened linen fabrics [https://izolna.ru/services/obrabotka-tkani/; https://www.linorusso.ru/volshebnoe-preobrajenie-lna.html]. At the same time, new difficulties and disadvantages appear, among which, first of all, it is necessary to note the shrinkage of the material up to 15-30% with its different values in the direction of the warp and weft threads, as well as for various types of thread seams, which distorts the size and shape of the product. The seams on the supporting surface of the garment are also softened, as a result of which its dimensional stability deteriorates. When carrying out enzyme washing on industrial washing units, a specific, difficult-to-remove “crash” effect appears - the bruising effect, which is applicable only to a narrow range of products.

It is known that the side effects of enzymatic treatment of textile materials may be associated with the presence of undesirable components in biological products. This is especially true for the use of “complete” cellulase compositions containing the entire complex of cellulolytic enzymes, including cellulase itself (endo-1,4-beta-glucanase, EC classification number 3.2.1.4, used designation EG), cellobiohydrolase (exo-1,4 -beta-glucanase, EC 3.2.1.91, designation CBH) and cellobiase (beta-glucosidase, EC 3.2.1.21, designation BG). In particular, in the description of the patent [WO 1994007983 A1, cl. C12N 9/2437, Appl. 09/30/1992, publ. 14.04.1994] the preference of the transition from native multicomponent biological products to the use of recombinant isolated enzymes in the processing of jeans products to obtain the effects of wear and dye removal is analyzed in detail. The target effect is provided by the impact of endoglucanase EG I and EG III, and the presence of cellobiohydralase CBH I in the system enhances the loss of material strength. Cellucast (Novo Industry, Denmark), Rapidase (Gist Brocades, Netherlands), Cytolase 123 (Genencor International, USA) are indicated as preferred.

On the contrary, to achieve the effects of biopolishing cellulose materials, in particular, before dyeing, to increase the smoothness of the fiber and improve color perception, it is proposed to use multicomponent cellulases, for example, Cellusoft L (Novo Nordisk A/S, Denmark) [WO 1999016956 A1, cl. D06M 16/003, Appl. 09/29/1997, publ. 04/08/1999], or a recombinant composition with a predominant content of the CBH I enzyme described in the patent [WO 1992006209 A1, cl. D06M 16/003, Appl. 10/05/1990, publ. 04/16/1992], for example, Cellusoft Ultra (Novo Nordisk A/S, Denmark).

From the patent [WO 1995025840 A1, cl. C12Y 302/01091, Appl. 03/18/1994, publ. 09/26/1995] it is known that the BG component in the composition of cellulase compositions does not directly affect cellulose, but prevents the inhibition of EG and CBH enzymes by the products of enzymatic hydrolysis of cellulose. Therefore, the presence of one or more BG components in textile treatment solutions can enhance the overall hydrolysis of cellulose.

Known methods of processing cellulose materials, providing a reduction in the tendency to form pills (pellets), using cellulase compositions with a high content of the EG II component [US 5858767 A, class. C12N 9/2437, Appl. 11/25/1996, publ. 01.12.1999; US 5866407 A, cl. C12N 9/2437, Appl. 03/18/1997, publ. 02/02/1999; EP 0854190 A2, class. D06P 5/02 Appl. 11/25/1996, publ. 07/22/1998].

To improve the neck (softness) of cellulosic materials, it is known to use EG III type cellulases with a content of EG I type components of not more than 5%, calculated on the total mass of cellulase proteins [US 5770104 A, class. C12N 9/2437, Appl. 10/05/1990, publ. 06/23/1998]. The method allows to reduce material costs and surpass the technological efficiency of analogs involving the use of mixed compositions, in which only one specific fraction of endoglucanase is effective for improving tissue care [GB 2075028 A, cl. C12N 9/2437, Appl. 04/30/1980, publ. 03/28/1984; GB 2094826 A, cl. C11D 3/0084, Appl. 03/05/1981, publ. 06/12/1985; GB 2095275 A, cl. C11D 3/0084, Appl. 03/05/1981, publ. 08/07/1985; US 4435307 A, cl. C12N 9/2437, Appl. 04/30/1980, publ. 03/06/1984; EP 0269168 A2, class. C11D 3/38645, Appl. 11/21/1986, publ. 06/01/1988].

It is known that the subdivision of endoglucanase components is due to the difference in their molecular structure, which manifests itself in differences in the isoelectric point, pH optimum, and molecular weight. In particular, the molecular weight of the endoglucanase components of different strains of the fungus Tricoderma varies from 23 to 50 kD [WO 1996023928 A1, class. D06P 5/158 Appl. 02/01/1995, publ. 08.08.1996]. Differences in molecular weight are due to changes in the amino acid composition of the enzyme molecule. There are six varieties of endoglucanase with a molecular weight of 92, 75, 65, 60, 56 or 45 kD, obtained from Bacillus lautus, the amino acid sequence of which is disclosed in the patent [WO 199110732 A1, cl. C12Y 302/01039 , Appl. 01/19/1990, publ. 07/25/1991]. Patent [WO 1994028117 A1, cl. C12N 9/2437, Appl. 06/02/1993, publ. 12/08/1994] discloses the isolation and sequence of cellulase EG V from Trichoderma reesei with a molecular weight of 20-25 kD, and in the patent [WO 1998015619 A1, cl. C12N 9/2437, Appl. 10/09/1996, publ. 04/16/1998] describes cellulase EG VI with a molecular weight of about 95-105 kD.

Known information that to reduce the rigidity or lighten the color of tissue from cellulose fibers using highly purified endoglucanase obtained from Humicola insolens, with a molecular weight of 43 kD [WO 1991017243 A1, cl. C12Q 1/6895, Appl. 05/09/1990, publ. 11/14/1991]. At the same time, it is known that the reduction of strength losses during the processing of textile products is provided by preparations of increased cellulase, which contain a fusion enzyme formed by the expression of two or more cellulase genes [US 5989899 A, cl. C12N 9/2437, Appl. 12/23/1996, publ. November 23, 1999]. Options for using cellulolytic multimers, consisting of several subunits of protein molecules, are presented in patents [DE 69730446 T2, cl. C12N 9/2437, Appl. 12/16/1997, publ. 09/15/2005; AU 730115 B2, cl. C12N 9/2437, Appl. 12/23/1996, publ. 02/22/2001; WO 1998028411 A1, class. C12N 9/2437, Appl. 12/16/1997, publ. 07/02/1998].

It is known that an increase in the size of enzymes helps to reduce their allergenicity [WO 1991017243 A1, class. C12Q 1/6895, Appl. 05/09/1990, publ. 11/14/1991].

Manufacturers of industrial enzyme preparations, as a rule, do not provide information on the molecular weight of enzymes. Experimental determination of the molecular weight of proteins requires the use of rather complex methods of ultracentrifugation, gel chromatography and electrophoresis [Semak I.V., Zyryanov T.N., Gubich O.I. Biochemistry of proteins: workshop. - Minsk: BGU, 2007. 49 p.; http://www.bio.bsu.by/biohim/files/proteins.pdf]. At the same time, characteristics of the size of enzyme globules in hydrosol can be obtained by assessing the state of the dispersed phase by dynamic light scattering [Berne B.J., Pecora R. Dynamic Light Scattering., N.Y.: Wiley, 1976. 376 p.; https://books.google.ru/books?id=vBB54ABhmuEC&hl=ru&source=gbs_navlinks_s]. The use of the analyzer Zetasizer Nano ZS (F. Malvern Instruments Ltd., England) for registration of the phase distribution of the size of nanoparticles in polyfractional hydrosols is described [Koksharov S.A. On the application of the method of dynamic light scattering to estimate the size of particles in a bicomponent hydrosol, Izv. universities. Chemistry and chem. technology. 2015. V. 58. No. 1. S. 33-36; https://cyberleninka.ru/article/n/o-primenenii-metoda-dinamicheskogo-svetovogo-rasseyaniya-dlya-otsenki-razmera-nanochastits-v-bikomponentnom-gidrozole/viewer].

There is also information about the difference in the adsorption properties of cellulases with respect to solid-phase cellulose substrates, which is associated with the presence or absence of a cellulose-binding domain (CBD) enzyme in the globule [Rabinovich M.L., Melnik M.S. Progress in the study of cellulolytic enzymes and mechanisms of biodegradation of highly ordered forms of cellulose // Advances in biological chemistry. 2000. T. 40. S. 205-266; https://www.fbras.ru/uspehi-biologicheskoy-himii-40-tom.html]. The presence of CBD connected to the catalytic domain via a flexible linker causes the biocatalyzed destruction of cellulose macromolecules by the “multiple attack” mechanism with deep penetration of the catalytic domain into the fiber structure without changing the dislocation of the enzyme.

In this regard, for enzymatic bleaching of jeans products, in order to avoid large losses in the strength of the material, it is proposed to use modified EG II cellulase from Trichoderma reesei, which does not have CBD and is characterized by a molecular weight of about 48 kD [US 8043828 B2, cl. C12N 9/2437, Appl. 01/18/2007, publ. October 25, 2011]. It is known to use in the processes of removing coloring with Indigo dye from jeans products of cellulase of family 5 without CSD, which does not have a significant abrasive effect, but is capable of hydrolyzing p-nitrophenyl-β-1,4-cellobioside [WO 1997009410 A1, cl. D06P 5/158 Appl. 09/08/1995, publ. 03/13/1997], Cellulases with reduced affinity for non-cellulosic materials are described in the patent [JP 5690721 B2, cl. C12 No. 9/2437, Appl. 06/06/2008, publ. 03/25/2015],

Strongly adsorbed cellulases are used primarily in the processes of deep conversion of cellulose raw materials, in the production of fermentable sugars and bioethanol, for example [RU 2458128 C2, class. C12N 9/42 Appl. 12/15/2006, publ. 10.08.2012]. However, Procter & Gamble tissue care compositions are known that contain enzymes in which the amino acid sequence contains one or more CBD [WO 1999057156 A1, cl. C12N 9/2437, Appl. 05/11/1998, publ. 11/11/1999; US 6906024 B1, cl. C11D 3/38645, Appl. 05/01/1998, publ. 06/14/2005].

In order to ensure the durability of the product and reduce the aging of the cellulose material, it is known to use compositions based on cellulase with reduced mobility [WO 1997001629 A1, class. C12N 9/2437, Appl. 06/28/1995, publ. 01/16/1997]. Options have been proposed to increase the molecular weight or apparent size of the enzyme molecule by aggregating several cellulase molecules, or by using CBD to autoimmobilize the cellulase protein on an insoluble or soluble, preferably cellulose-containing, carrier. Examples of useful carriers are Avicel™, Vivicel™, Sigmacel™ containing cellulose and having an average particle size of 0.01 µm to 100 µm. Polyelectrolytes and charged oligomers are also indicated as carriers: polypeptides (for example, polylysic acid and polyaspartic acid), proteins, ionized polyacrylamides, methacrylic acid-methyl methacrylate copolymer, and minerals perlite, zeolite, bentonite, etc. Celluzyme™ (Novo Nordisk A/S) and KAC - 500(B)™ (Kao Corporation) based on cellulases produced by the Humicola insolens strain.

Manufacturers of industrial enzyme preparations, as a rule, do not indicate information about the adsorption properties of enzymes in their composition. Known methods for experimental determination of the adsorption capacity of cellulase preparations by the value of the adsorption coefficient of distribution of the enzyme between the solution and the surface of the solid-phase substrate (Henry adsorption constant) [A.P. Sinitsyn, V.M. Chernoglazov, A.V. Gusakov. Methods for studying and properties of cellulolytic enzymes. Itogi nauki i tekhniki. Series Biotechnology, T. 25. - M.: VINITI, 1990. - S. 132-134; https://istina.fnkcrr.ru/publications/book/452723/]. For strongly adsorbed cellulases, the Henry adsorption constant exceeds 0.3 l/g [A.P. Sinitsyn, A.V. Gusakov, V.M. Chernoglazov. Bioconversion of lignocellulosic materials: Uch. allowance. M.: MGU, 1995. S. 80-98; http://bookre.org/reader?file=470074&pg=3].

Recently, information has become known about polypeptides that have carbohydrate-binding activity in detergent compositions that facilitate ironing products and reduce creasing of cellulose-containing products, incl. linen fabrics in household or industrial washing processes [WO 2019201793A1, cl. C11D 11/0017, Appl. 04/17/2018, publ. October 24, 2019]. The polypeptide has glycoside hydrolase, xylanase, endoglucanase activity, and the detergent composition may additionally contain one or more enzymes selected from the group: proteases, lipases, cutinases, amylases, carbohydrases, cellulases, pectinases, mannanases, arabinases, galactanases, xylanases, oxidases, nucleases, for example laccases, and/or peroxidases. At the same time, the main component of the detergent composition is a numerous complex of surfactants and excipients. Commercially available products embodying the invention are listed, such as Tide TOTALCARE™ Liquid, Cool Cotton (Procter & Gamble). The effectiveness of the technical solution is shown using an expert organoleptic evaluation according to the test method AATCC TM 124-2018 test 124-TM 124 - visual comparison of the smoothness of the appearance of fabrics after home washing [access mode: https://members.aatcc.org/store/tm124/ 533/].

When reproducing this invention, the achievement of the claimed result - reducing wet wrinkle - was confirmed by us using an instrumental method in accordance with GOST 19204-73. The total (weft and warp) fold recovery angle of linen fabric in the wet state increases from 140 to 185 degrees, which ensures that the normative value of the wrinkle resistance index of clean linen fabrics with an LG finish (easy ironing) is exceeded in accordance with GOST 15968-87 (at least 45% of the value full disclosure - 2 * 180 degrees). However, in this case, the value of the total angle of wrinkle restoration in the dry state practically does not change and amounts to 110 ± 7 degrees. at the standard level of wrinkle resistance of clean linen fabrics with MC finishing (low wrinkle) of at least 42% (GOST 15968-87), i.e. not less than 151.2 degrees. The results are consistent with known data [SU 1118731 A, class. D06M 13/46 Appl. 12/16/1982, publ. 10/15/1984] that the methods of giving linen fabrics the effects of "easy ironing" allow obtaining high values of the total angle of opening of the fold in the wet state at the level of 230-250 degrees, but the value of the indicator when testing dry fabric is only 132-144 degrees.

A known method of processing fabrics for clothing from cellulose fibers [CN 102767083 B, Appl. 08/01/2012, publ. 08/13/2014], according to which high resistance to wrinkling is ensured through the complex enzymatic treatment with cellulases in the cycle of preparing the fabric for dyeing, as well as finishing with cellulose-crosslinking preparations in combination with film-forming and softening agents. As a result of the complex effect, the ability of the fibers to restore folds improves, the coefficient of friction decreases, the tactile sensation of the fabric improves, the tensile strength of the fabric and wear resistance increase.

However, the known method is unsuitable for making clothes from linen fabrics, since the fixing of the finishing composition worsens the plasticity and formability of flat cut parts when creating a three-dimensional construction of a garment. In addition, the description of the parameters of the enzymatic treatment does not indicate the type and properties of the cellulase preparation used, which, as shown above, can significantly change the result of the treatment. As a technological parameter that regulates the amount of enzyme in the solution, the percentage of cellulase (3% ~ 5%) is indicated. However, along with the enzyme protein, the composition of biological products includes various auxiliary components, which introduces uncertainty into the value of the indicator. Information is also known about the instability in time of the catalytic properties of the enzymatic protein, which can affect the result of processing.

In accordance with the recommendations of the Commission on Enzymes of the International Biochemical Union, the quantitative assessment of the content of a certain enzyme in a preparation (solution) is carried out not in generally accepted weight or volume units, but in units of activity according to the results of the reaction that it catalyzes, that is, to reduce the content of the initial substrate or the amount of reaction product formed. A unit of activity for any enzyme is understood as its amount that catalyzes the conversion of 1 µmol of the control substance in 1 min under the specified regulated conditions of the test experiment. Methods for determining the activity of enzymes, including in multicomponent systems, are described in numerous literature sources, for example [Polygalina G.V., Cherednichenko V.S., Rimareva L.V. Determination of enzyme activity: a handbook. - M.: DeLiprint, 2002. 376 p.; https://knigogid.ru/books/83211-opredelenie-aktivnosti-fermentov-spravochnik].

Modern trends in the rational organization of the production of clothing from cellulose materials provide for the transfer of finishing operations to the technological cycle for the manufacture of garments. Under the conditions of mass production of clothing, before processing a sewn product with a finishing composition, washing is carried out to remove industrial contaminants from the material and soften clothing, as well as to extract unbound formaldehyde from the product [CN 111074533 A, class. D06M 11/155 Appl. 10/18/2018, publ. 04/28/2020; CN 111074578 A, cl. D06M 15/17, Appl. 10/18/2018, publ. 04/28/2020; CN 111074631 A, cl. D06M 15/647 Appl. 10/19/2018, publ. 04/28/2020]. However, the use of such processes requires additional measures to clean the discharged wash water from environmentally hazardous contaminants.

Closest to the claimed invention in essence and achieved technical result is a method of manufacturing a linen shirt (men's shirt) with a wash-wear finish (without ironing) [CN 103628321 A, Appl. 12/09/2013, publ. 03/12/2014], which includes the following set of operations:

1 - cutting out the details of a product made of linen fabric;

2 - sewing a semi-finished product;

3 - processing of a semi-finished product in a rotary washing machine, including steaming with saturated water vapor at a temperature of 95 ° C with shock effects on the material of the rotor blades at a rotation speed of 40-60 rpm, for 2-4 hours to soften the linen fabric;

4 - processing of a semi-finished product with a finishing anti-crease composition containing a 2D modified resin (160-200 g/l), an inorganic magnesium salt (16-20 g/l), a modified organic silicon and polyethylene (30-50 g/l), for 0 .5 hours;

5 - drying at 40-50°C for 0.5 hours;

6 - processing on an ironing press weighing 5 kg at a temperature of 110-130°C for 15-25 s;

7 - heat treatment at 100-130°C for 300-600 s;

8 - washing at 40-60°C for 10-20 min to remove unbound formaldehyde;

9 - impregnation with a solution of an aqueous polyurethane dispersion (2-4 g/l) and acetic acid (0.5-1.0 g/l);

10 - final drying for 2.5-3 hours.

Linen shirts obtained according to the prototype do not require ironing after washing, are soft to the touch and have sufficient resistance to wrinkling in wear for shirt fabrics: the total opening angle of the fold according to GOST 19204-73 in the dry and wet state, respectively, is 170 and 190 degrees.

However, the known method has a number of disadvantages and limitations in use:

1) The low level of wrinkle resistance of products made from denser suit and dress fabrics: the total angle of opening of the fold in the dry state is 120-145 degrees, in the wet state 136-155 degrees, which does not meet the quality requirements for linen clothing fabrics with a wrinkle-resistant finish (GOST 15968-2014).

2) Insufficient elasticity of flax fiber in the resulting product, which manifests itself in the accumulation of irreversible deformation in the material under repeated cyclic loads. In tests for multiple stretching of threads isolated from fabric, in accordance with GOST 28890-90, the proportion of residual deformation in the total elongation is 0.51, and the proportion of slowly reversible deformation is 0.11. As a result, the product made of linen shirt fabric obtained by the prototype method does not provide the required level of resistance to multiple (cyclic) creases - the value of the wrinkle resistance coefficient when tested according to the method of A.N. Solovyov on the non-oriented crushing device STP-6 [https://pandia.ru/text/78/370/131-2.php] does not exceed 0.39 (from the height of the original sample before the test). For the profile type of the product according to the prototype method (men's shirt), this indicator is not of decisive importance, since during its operation the material experiences cyclic crushing loads only in the area of the elbow bend of the sleeves, and their intensity is low. At the same time, it is obvious that the known method cannot be applied, for example, to the manufacture of waist garments, since in the areas of the knee and hip joints, as well as in the folds under the buttocks of the consumer, when sitting, the amount of effort on the material is 6-40 times greater, and a significant increase in resistance to cyclic crushing loads is required.

3) A significant deterioration in mechanical strength as a result of cumulative damage to flax fiber material under conditions of intensive mechanical processing, the influence of an acid catalyst (an inorganic magnesium salt, namely, MgCl ₂ ) in the processes of high-temperature pressing and heat treatment, as well as cross-linking of cellulose macromolecules with an anti-crease composition modified with formaldehyde resin . The decrease in the breaking load of the fabric (tests in accordance with GOST 3813-72) is 17% compared to the level before finishing the semi-finished product, the decrease in abrasion resistance (GOST 18976-73) is 15%, the level of indicators does not meet the totality of requirements for the quality of clothing linen fabrics (GOST 15968-2014).

4) Insufficient (no more than 20%) and indiscriminate reduction in material stiffness when processing all parts of a cross-linked semi-finished product, including softening of the main structural and shaping parts, which worsens the fit of the product and limits the product range. The method is applicable only for the manufacture of a narrow range of garments, namely, free-style linen shirts, the model solution of which initially does not imply high requirements for the dimensional stability of individual parts and the entire product as a whole. At the same time, even in a men's shirt of a strict office style, such details as a collar, cuffs, placket must remain rigid and have a stable shape throughout the entire service life. In other products, such details include the belt of a skirt and trousers, the collar and lapels of a jacket, the facing of the neck (armhole) of a dress, etc. The required value of material stiffness (tests in accordance with GOST 10550-93) for products of the dress group varies from 1.1 to 30 mN⋅cm ² , while the difference in stiffness of different parts in one product can reach 20 mN⋅cm ² .

5) Large shrinkage of the semi-finished product, which necessitates the transfer of the product to a smaller size category (by 1-2 dimensional units in accordance with the clothing parameters according to GOST 25294-2003, 25295-2003, 25296-2003 and 30327-2013).

6) Complexity, multi-stage, long cycle of finishing operations, which is at least 6 hours, the need to use a large number of additional equipment for repeated processing of the semi-finished product with technological solutions and drying, which makes it difficult to implement it in practice, a high level of material and energy intensity of the production process and cost received products.

Thus, there is no known simple and easy-to-implement method for the manufacture of garments from linen fabrics, which would make it possible to obtain clothes of various assortments with high resistance to wrinkling in dry and wet states, including multiple cyclic wrinkling, while simultaneously ensuring the required level of strength indicators and controlled shrinkage, which does not lead to a decrease in the size group of the product, as well as with adjustable rigidity of units and parts in products of a complex volumetric silhouette shape.

The essence of the invention

The inventive task was to find a simpler method for making clothes from linen fabrics, including cutting out the details of the product and sewing the semi-finished product, finishing the semi-finished product by processing it in a washing machine, applying an anti-crease composition and an aqueous polyurethane dispersion, drying, ironing and heat treatment, which, along with increasing wrinkle resistance of the product in a dry and wet state would provide high resistance to repeated cyclic wrinkling while reducing the loss of mechanical strength of the material and technological shrinkage to a level that meets the requirements of GOST 15968-2014 for the quality of linen clothing fabrics with a wrinkle-resistant finish and prevents a decrease in the dimensional parameters of the product, regulated GOST 25294-2003, 25295-2003, 25296-2003 and 30327-2013, would expand the range of manufactured products due to a wide range of adjustable reduction in the rigidity of product parts, as well as reduce the number of stages and the total duration of the process.

The technical result is achieved by the fact that in the method of making clothes from linen fabrics, including cutting out the details of the product and sewing the semi-finished product, finishing the semi-finished product by processing it in a washing machine with applying an anti-crease composition and an aqueous polyurethane dispersion, drying, ironing and heat treatment, sewing the semi-finished product is carried out by separate units of the product, and the assembly of the units is carried out between ironing and heat treatment, the finishing of the semi-finished product is carried out with a solution of an anti-crease composition at a temperature of 25-55 ° C for 40-120 minutes, the anti-crease composition contains cellulase in an amount that ensures the level of endoglucanase activity in the solution is 40-100 unit/ml, with the addition of an aqueous polyurethane dispersion in the amount of 0.5-1.5 g/l (in terms of the main substance), the drying of the semi-finished product is carried out at a temperature of 80-100 ° C, and the heat treatment is carried out with steaming at a temperature of 140 -160°C for 2-4 minutes. In this case, cellulase is used with a Henry adsorption constant of 0.02-0.20 l/g and/or 80-100% content of enzyme particles with sizes of more than 30 nm. The polyurethane dispersion can be introduced into the solution of the anti-crease composition 30 minutes after the start of finishing the semi-finished product, in addition, the aqueous polyurethane dispersion can be preliminarily ultradispersed to a particle size of 2-30 nm. The aqueous polyurethane dispersion may additionally contain colloidal silicon dioxide at a solids mass ratio of 3:1-5:1, while the mixture of aqueous polyurethane dispersion with colloidal silicon dioxide is preliminarily subjected to joint ultradispersion to 50-100% content of fractions with a particle size of less than 30 nm. Also, when assembling product nodes, unfinished nodes can be sewn to finished nodes.

The invention provides the following advantages:

1) To increase the value of the crease resistance of products and ensure compliance with the quality requirements for linen clothing fabrics with a crease-resistant finish (GOST 15968-2014) - the total angle of opening of the fold in the dry and wet state is increased to 160-180 and 172-219 degrees. respectively.

2) Improve the elastic properties of flax fiber, reduce the accumulation of irreversible deformation under cyclic loads, increase the resistance of clothing to multiple non-oriented crushing. When testing fabric threads for multiple stretching, the proportion of residual deformation was reduced to 0.30-0.35 versus 0.47-0.51 for the prototype, and the proportion of slowly reversible strain was doubled to 0.24-0.29 versus 0, 11-0.12 according to the prototype. The coefficient of crease resistance in tests for multiple non-oriented crushing is increased to 0.60-0.74 against 0.34-0.41 according to the prototype.

3) Reduce the loss of mechanical strength and ensure that the manufactured products comply with the requirements of GOST 15968-2014 in terms of the totality of strength criteria for the quality of clothing linen fabrics. The reduction in breaking load does not exceed 5% against 12-17% of the prototype. The decrease in the value of resistance to abrasion is not more than 10% against 15-20% of the prototype.

4) To increase the range of reduction in the stiffness index of fabrics and expand the model range of manufactured clothing due to the rational combination of the rigidity of knots and parts to ensure high-quality fit and dimensional stability of the product. In the manufacture of clothing from fabrics with a surface density of up to 200 g/sq. m rigidity of components and parts after finishing can be controlled lowered by more than 60% against 20% for the prototype. For fabrics with a surface density over 200 g/sq. m range of stiffness reduction is 30-40%. The possibility of sewing unfinished units during the assembly of the product ensures the high quality of structural and shaping parts, which are necessary in products of complex volume-silhouette shape and must remain rigid throughout the entire service life. In addition, the manufacture of a semi-finished product by harvesting individual units of the product makes it possible to vary the modes of finishing of different units and obtain products of the dress and costume group of various volume-plastic forms.

5) Reduce the technological shrinkage of the product by 3-7 times, which makes it possible to prevent an unproductive increase in the material consumption of products and ensure that the resulting products comply with the designed dimensional parameters of clothing in accordance with the regulatory requirements of GOST 25294-2003, 25295-2003, 25296-2003 and 30327-2013.

6) Simplify the technological process and reduce the processing time. The number of stages is reduced to 7 versus 10 according to the prototype. First of all, washing operations, which pose a great environmental hazard, are excluded, since sewing enterprises do not have their own systems for treating industrial effluents. The total duration of the cycle of finishing operations is reduced to 2.5-4 hours against 6-8.5 hours according to the prototype. The number of required additional equipment has been reduced to 2 units against 5 according to the prototype. By reducing the material and energy consumption of the production process, it is possible to reduce the cost of manufactured products.

Information confirming the possibility of carrying out the invention

The claimed method can be used to produce various types of light clothing from linen shirts and suit-dress fabrics without preliminary indelible or softening finishing. Preferred embodiments of the invention are described in the dependent claims.

The following reagents are used to carry out the method.

• Homogeneous and industrial enzyme preparations exhibiting endoglucanase activity, that is, containing endo-1,4-β-glucanase (the trivial name of cellulase, the classification number established by the current International Classification of Enzymes of 1961, CF 3.2.1.4). The best ratio of variable product properties is ensured if at least one of two complementary requirements for the properties of the enzyme preparation is met:

- cellulase should exhibit properties characteristic of a group of weakly adsorbing enzymes with respect to a solid-phase cellulose substrate, and, in particular, be characterized by a Henry adsorption constant of 0.02-0.20 l / g when assessed by a known method [https://istina. fnkcrr.ru/publications/book/452723/];

- cellulase should have large molecular sizes that prevent their penetration into the pore structure of the cell wall of the swollen elementary flax fiber and, in particular, be characterized by 80-100% content of enzyme particles with sizes of more than 30 nm when assessed, for example, by dynamic light scattering [ https://cyberleninka.ru/article/n/o-primenenii-metoda-dinamicheskogo-svetovogo-rasseyaniya-dlya-otsenki-razmera-nanochastits-v-bikomponentnom-gidrozole/viewer].

In accordance with the invention, high molecular weight cellulase from Trichoderma longibrachiatum described in the patent [WO 1998015619 A1, cl. C12N 9/2437, Appl. 10/09/1996, publ. 04/16/1998], multimeric cellulolytic preparations described in the patent [WO 1998028411 A1, cl. C12N 9/2437, Appl. 12/16/1997, publ. 02.07.1998], cellulase EG II from Trichoderma reesei, described in the patent [US 8043828 B2, cl. C12N 9/2437, Appl. 01/18/2007, publ. October 25, 2011], homogeneous preparations Cellulase Type I (Sigma Chemicals), Wallerstein-Cellulase (Sigma Chemicals), Cellulase Serva (Serva Laboratory), or commercial preparations Celluzyme™ (Novo Nordisk A/S), KAC - 500(B)™ (Kao Corporation), Enzitex TsKP and Enzitex AS (LLC Ferment, Republic of Belarus), Ksibeten-Tsel (LLC Biovet-ferment, Russia), etc.

The dosage of cellulase is carried out by controlling the level of endoglucanase activity in accordance with generally accepted methods of test experiments [https://knigogid.ru/books/83211-opredelenie-aktivnosti-fermentov-spravochnik].

• Colloidal systems of polyurethane urea derivatives stabilized by hydrophilic groups of non-ionic, cationic or anionic type, for example, varieties of polyurethane dispersions with aliphatic isocyanate of the Aquapol series (LLC NPP Makromer named after V.S. Lebedeva, Vladimir, Russia) or DIS-LINE 01 aromatic isocyanate (OOO PolyMix Kazan, Russia). Variants of thermally activated polyurethane-polycarbamide dispersions are described in patents [DE 2804609 A1, cl. C08G 18/0819 Appl. 02/03/1978, publ. 08/09/1979; DE 3728140 A1, C08G 18/2865, Appl. 08.22.1987, publ. 03/02/1989]. It is possible to use commercial preparations Liopur PFL 1964 (Synthopol, Germany), Evo® Soft (Dy Star, Germany), NeoRezU-471 (DSM NeoResins, USA), Dispercoll® U (Nortex LLC, Moscow, Russia), FOLCO® LIT PU-D (LLC SPS TECHNO, Krasnoyarsk, Russia), nanodispersed hydrosol EH 1050 (LLC TPK Infrakhim, Yaroslavl, Russia), etc.

• As an additive to the polyurethane dispersion, colloidal silicon dioxide (silica) can be used, obtained by precipitation of amorphous silicic acid from sodium silicate solutions with acidic reagents (hydrochloric acid, carbonic acid, etc.) at 70-90°C in the presence of metal salts of groups II or III , or synthesized by sol-gel technology [Shabanova N.A., Sarkisov P.D. Sol-gel technology. Nanodispersed silica: monograph. - M.: Binom. Lab. knowledge, 2012. 328 p.; https://www.studmed.ru/shabanova-na-sarkisov-pd-osnovy-zol-gel-tehnologii-kremnezema_953bccc8caf.html]. It is possible to use commercial preparations of silica, for example, manufactured by Guangzhon Jiechuang Trading Co. Ltd. (China), with preliminary dispersion operations.

• Distilled or technical softened water can be used to prepare the anti-crease composition.

• As additional components, the anti-crease composition may contain complexing agents, wetting agents, antifoam agents, buffer systems, and neutral electrolytes.

The method can be implemented using typical sewing, ironing equipment and devices for wet heat treatment. Treatment with an anti-crease composition can be carried out on standard industrial washer-dryer equipment, for example, a set of devices of the VO-20 and VS-20 brands (JSC Vyazemsky Machine-Building Plant, Smolensk region, Russia) or an Alliance NT3JLASP403NW22 washer-dryer.

For preliminary ultradispersion of an aqueous polyurethane dispersion or its mixture with colloidal silicon dioxide, ultrasonic treatment methods can be used, for example, in the UZDN-2T disintegrator, or mechanical activation with the combined effect of high shear stresses, ultrasound and cavitation using rotary-pulse devices [https:/ /dewa.tech/products/ria/] or colloid mill described in the patent [RU 136745 U1, cl. B02C 7/06 Appl. 04/18/2013, publ. 01/20/2014].

The method is implemented by sequentially carrying out the following stages:

- Cutting the details of the product from linen suiting and dress fabric without preliminary wrinkle-resistant or softening finish.

- Tailoring of a semi-finished product.

The stage involves the preparation of individual units of the product, such as: a shelf (front), back, sleeves, cuffs and a collar in the manufacture of a men's shirt, dress or jacket (jacket); front and back halves, belt (turning) in the manufacture of a skirt or trousers. The stage includes a set of operations for processing internal cuts and connecting parts, taking into account the presence and number of divisions of each node in the manufactured clothing model (tucks, reliefs, coquettes, folds, pockets, etc.), as well as connecting with gaskets if they are used. A grouping of product nodes is carried out taking into account the required level of wrinkle resistance and rigidity in different zones of the model solution of the manufactured clothing.

- Finishing the semi-finished product with a solution of anti-crease composition.

EFFECT: invention makes it possible to carry out three options for finishing the semi-finished product with an anti-crease composition. The first option provides for the same changes in the properties of linen fabric in all nodes of the semi-finished product, which are subjected to simultaneous processing. The second option assumes the possibility of obtaining unequal changes in the properties of the fabric in different nodes of the semi-finished product, taking into account the features of the volumetric plastic form of the manufactured clothing model. In this case, the cut knots of the same type are subdivided into groups that undergo separate processing with different technological parameters within the established intervals of their variation. According to the third option, only a part of the product nodes can be finished, if it is advisable for the remaining part to retain the original characteristics of the linen fabric or the node connected to the gasket.

The anti-crease composition contains cellulase in an amount that provides the level of endoglucanase activity in a solution of 40-100 units/ml, and an aqueous polyurethane dispersion in an amount of 0.5-1.5 g/l (in terms of the main substance). The solution also contains a complexing agent 1.0-1.5 g/l, a buffer system that ensures the creation of an optimal pH level in accordance with the recommended cellulase activity peak, and, if necessary, a wetting agent, an antifoam agent, and neutral electrolytes. The temperature of the solution is 25-55°C, preferably 40-45°C.

The treatment with the solution is carried out while mixing the liquid and the semi-finished product in a washing machine for 40-120 minutes. The preferred value of the liquid processing module (the ratio of the volume of the solution in liters and the mass of the semi-finished product in kilograms) is 10:1. After processing, the semi-finished product without washing is centrifuged to remove excess moisture.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cellulase preparation used must satisfy at least one of the criteria:

- the value of the Henry adsorption constant is 0.02-0.20 l/g;

- 80-100% content of enzyme particles larger than 30 nm.

It has been found that each of the conditions individually and preferably in combination provide the best combination of improved functional properties of the manufactured clothing due to the effective modification of the primary cell wall of the flax fiber without introducing into the main layer of the secondary cell wall of the elementary fiber.

It is also a preferred option to introduce the polyurethane dispersion into the solution of the anti-crease composition 30 minutes after the start of finishing the semi-finished product. This has been found to provide efficient uptake of cellulase from solution by the flax fiber material.

Another preferred embodiment of the invention provides for pre-ultraspersing the aqueous polyurethane dispersion to a particle size of 2-30 nm. This has been found to allow diffusion of the polyurethane dispersion particles into the mesopore spaces of the swollen flax fiber and to prevent the fiber surface from being blocked by the modifying action of the cellulase.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, an aqueous polyurethane dispersion pre-modified with colloidal silica is used. Moreover, in this case, the mixture at a solids mass ratio of 3:1 - 5:1 is subjected to joint ultradispersion, providing at least 50% content in the hydrosol of fractions with a particle size of less than 30 nm when measured by dynamic light scattering. It was found that the mechanical activation of the blended preparation promotes interparticle interactions of nanodispersed silicon dioxide with the hydrophilic groups of polyurethane macromolecules, and the resulting adduct interacts with the functional groups of the biocatalyst and linen cellulose under conditions of heat treatment with steaming, which contributes to a comprehensive improvement in the elastic-elastic properties of the manufactured linen clothing. Additives of colloidal silicon dioxide make it possible to adjust the temperature intervals of phase and chemical transformations in the system to the technological parameters of the final heat treatment stage with steaming to fix the structure and volumetric shape of the clothes being made.

- Drying.

To remove the moisture remaining after pressing (centrifuging) the semi-finished product, any method of heating the material is applicable, preferably the use of convective or thermoradiation methods of heat transfer. Under drying conditions at a temperature of 80-100°C, thermal inactivation of cellulase occurs and its catalytic action is terminated. It is preferable to carry out drying to a residual moisture content of linen material of 15±3%.

- Ironing.

Traditional ironing temperature regimes are used for linen products, avoiding the formation of wrinkles, and, mainly, with strong pressure on the material.

- Installation of product components.

The stage provides for a typical procedure for connecting nodes to obtain a finished product: connecting side and shoulder seams, sewing in sleeves and a collar, connecting cuffs in shoulder products, connecting side and step seams, sewing a belt (turning) in belt products, buttonholes, fastening forniture, decorative elements and so on. At the same time, the conformity of the dimensional characteristics of the manufactured clothing is observed. The invention provides for the possibility of using a certain group of nodes during the installation of the product, which, taking into account the properties of the source material, were not subjected to finishing and are attached to the main group of semi-finished product nodes subjected to finishing.

- Heat treatment.

To fix the bulk form of the product, heat treatment is carried out in a steam-air environment at a temperature of 140-160°C for 2-4 minutes, the preferred moistening of the fibrous material to a moisture content of 20-30%.

Evaluation of the effectiveness of the method of manufacturing clothes from linen fabrics according to the invention and the prototype was carried out in the same way according to the following set of indicators:

1. The total angle of opening of the fold of the test samples in the dry state (SURS _C , deg.) and in the wet state (SURS _M , deg.) - controlled in accordance with GOST 19204-73 on the SMT device; the indicator is calculated by summing the values of the opening angle of the pleat in the direction of the warp and weft threads.

2. The coefficient of resistance to multiple crushing (K _N ) - controlled by the method of A.N. Solovyov on the STP-6 non-oriented crushing device [https://pandia.ru/text/78/370/131-2.php]; the indicator is calculated from the ratio of the height of the test sample after testing to the value for the original fabric.

3. The proportion of the components of the relative elongation of the thread from the fabric of the manufactured product during single-cycle tests [GOST 28890-90], including:

- rapidly reversible elongation (δ _bo ) - characterizes the magnitude of the elastic deformation of the flax fiber when stretched;

- slowly reversible elongation (δ _mo ) - characterizes the elastic component of tensile strain;

- residual elongation (δ _ost ) - characterizes the irreversible deformation that accumulates in the material under tension.

4. The stiffness of the fabric in bending (EI, mN⋅cm ² ) - was determined by the cantilever method on the device PT-2 according to GOST 10550-93. The amount of reduction in bending stiffness (ΔEI,%) was calculated with respect to the index value for the original fabric.

5. Reducing the breaking load relative to the original fabric (ΔР,%); the value of the breaking load was determined on a tensile testing machine according to GOST 3813-72.

6. Decrease in abrasion resistance relative to the original fabric (ΔI,%) - the amount of abrasion resistance was determined on the DIT-M device according to GOST 18976-73.

7. Technological shrinkage (Y _T ,%) - was determined by changing the size of the nodes of the semi-finished product before and after finishing with a solution of anti-crease composition in accordance with the requirements of GOST 3811-72 in terms of determining the linear dimensions of textile materials of piece goods.

8. Dimensional parameters of products according to GOST 25294-2003, 25295-2003, 25296-2003 and 30327-2013 and their compliance with cut parameters.

The invention is illustrated by the following examples:

Example 1

For the manufacture of men's trousers with a soft-fixed shape in accordance with the model shown in fig. 1a, used suit linen art. 06S397 with a surface density of 240 g/m ² and an initial hardness of 22.6 mN⋅cm ² . The production was carried out according to the following technological regime:

1 - Cutting parts according to patterns of basic size-growth 182-100-84 in accordance with GOST 31399-2009.

2 - Sewing of the semi-finished product was carried out by harvesting the main units in accordance with the block diagram shown in fig. 1b ("Blank" block). Separation of nodes into groups was not carried out, since for all nodes of the semi-finished product, the achievement of the required indicators of crease resistance is necessary with the same decrease in the stiffness index to 14-17 mN⋅cm ² .

3 - To finish the semi-finished product, a solution of an anti-creasing composition based on Cellulase Type I (Sigma Chemicals) was used at a concentration that provided the value of the endoglucanase activity in the solution of 60 units/ml, with the addition of Trilon B complexone 1.5 g/l, a buffer mixture of CH ₃ COOH (1N) 104.6 ml/l and NaOH (1N) 100 ml/l to provide a pH of 6.0.

Processing of the semi-finished product was carried out in a washing machine VO-20, the value of the liquid module 10:1, temperature 25°C. 30 minutes after the start of treatment, 5 g/l of an aqueous polyurethane dispersion of Aquapol 21 with a dispersed phase content of 30 ± 2% was added to the solution of the anti-creasing composition, which was preliminarily subjected to ultradispersion on a rotary pulse apparatus to a particle size of the dominant fractions of 2–30 nm.

After a total processing time of 100 min, the semi-finished product was centrifuged without washing.

4 - Drying of the semi-finished product was carried out in a VS-20 dryer with hot air at a temperature of 80°C to a residual moisture content of the material of 15%.

5 - Ironing was carried out using a hot press Japsew SR-600 (China) at a temperature of 120°C.

6 - Installation of product nodes was carried out in accordance with the block diagram shown in fig. 1b ("Installation" block).

7 - Heat treatment was carried out on a steam press PM PRIMULA at a temperature of 140°C for 4 minutes with moistening of the material to a moisture content of 20%.

For comparison, trousers were made with the reproduction of the technological mode of processing the semi-finished product with the full connection of the nodes according to the prototype.

The table shows the results of a comparison of the totality of the analyzed indicators for trousers made according to the proposed method for making clothes from linen fabric and according to the prototype.

Example 2

For the manufacture of men's shirts in accordance with the model shown in fig. 2a, used a shirt linen fabric art. 03C68 - ShR with a surface density of 124 g/m ² and an initial hardness of 12.8 mN⋅cm ² . The fabric was processed according to the following technological regime:

1 - Cutting parts according to patterns of basic size-growth 182-100-41 in accordance with GOST 30327-2013.

2 - Sewing a semi-finished product in accordance with the block diagram shown in fig. 2b ("Blank" block). Since the details of the collar and cuffs require a rigidity of more than 24 mN⋅cm ² , they were duplicated with a cushioning material. Group “A” (which does not require finishing with an anti-crease composition) included a collar, cuffs and a cutting bar. Group "B" combined the rest of the components of the semi-finished product to carry out their finishing under the same conditions.

3 - To finish the group "B" of the semi-finished product, a solution of an anti-creasing composition based on Cellulase Serva (Serva Laboratory) was used at a concentration that provided the value of the endoglucanase activity in the solution of 40 units/ml, with the addition of Trilon B complexone 1.5 g/l, buffer mixture of CH ₃ COOH (1N) 146.8 ml/l and NaOH (1N) 100 ml/l to ensure a pH of 5.0.

Processing of the semi-finished product was carried out in a washing machine VO-20, the value of the liquid module 10:1, temperature 40°C. 30 minutes after the start of treatment, 1.7 g/l of an aqueous polyurethane dispersion of Aquapol 23 with a dispersed phase content of 30 ± 2% was added to the solution of the anti-creasing composition, which was preliminarily subjected to ultrasonic treatment on a UZDN-2T disintegrator until the dominant fractions reached a particle size of 15- 30 nm.

After a total processing time of 40 minutes, the semi-finished product was centrifuged without washing.

4 - Drying of the semi-finished product was carried out in a VS-20 dryer with hot air at a temperature of 90°C to a residual moisture content of the material of 18%.

5 - Ironing was carried out using a heat press type Japsew SR-600 (China) at a temperature of 140°C.

6 - Installation of product nodes was carried out in accordance with the block diagram shown in fig. 2b ("Installation" block).

7 - Heat treatment was carried out on a steam press PM PRIMULA at a temperature of 140°C for 2 minutes with moistening of the material to a moisture content of 25%.

For comparison, a men's shirt was made with the reproduction of the technological mode of processing a semi-finished product according to the prototype with a full connection of nodes.

The table shows the results of comparing the totality of analyzed indicators for men's shirts made according to the prototype and according to the proposed method for making clothes from linen fabric with differentiation of material properties for nodes combined into groups "A" and "B".

Example 3

For the manufacture of a women's dress with a soft-plastic cut-off skirt in accordance with the model shown in fig. 3a, used linen dress fabric art. 01S840 - ShR with a surface density of 144 g/m ² and an initial hardness of 48.8 mN⋅cm ² . The fabric was processed according to the following technological regime:

1 - Cutting parts according to patterns of basic size-growth 164-92-98 in accordance with GOST 31396-2009.

2 - Sewing a semi-finished product in accordance with the block diagram shown in fig. 3b ("Blank" block). The nodes of the semi-finished product were divided into two groups for different modes of finishing with an anti-crease composition. The “H” group included the nodes of the lower part of the product, which need to be given the maximum level of wrinkle resistance, as well as the details of the sleeves, which have a soft-plastic shape. The group "B" united the nodes of the front, back and neckline, for which lower values of resistance to crushing are acceptable, but it is necessary to maintain the rigidity of the material at the level of 25-27 mN⋅cm ² for a high-quality fit of the product.

3 - Both groups of nodes of the semi-finished product were finished with solutions of an anti-creasing composition based on the Wallerstein-Cellulase preparation (Sigma Chemicals) at a concentration that provides an indicator of endoglucanase activity in a solution of 80 units/ml, with the addition of complexone Trilon B 1.5 g/l, buffer a mixture of CH ₃ COOH (1N) 114.8 ml/l and NaOH (1N) 100 ml/l to provide a pH of 5.5. Processing of the semi-finished product was carried out in a washing machine VO-20, the value of the liquid module 10:1, temperature 45°C.

For nodes of group “H”, 30 minutes after the start of treatment, 2 g/l of aqueous polyurethane dispersions of Liopur PFL 1964 with a dispersed phase content of 50 ± 2% were added to the solution of the anti-crease composition. After a total processing time of 80 minutes, the semi-finished product was centrifuged without washing.

For units of group “B”, 30 minutes after the start of treatment, 2.4 g/l of a mixed hydrosol of aqueous polyurethane dispersion Liopur PFL 1964 with colloidal silicon dioxide was added to the solution of the anti-crease composition in 30 minutes after the start of treatment at a solids mass ratio of 5: 1, which was previously subjected to ultradispersion on a rotary -impulse apparatus to achieve at least 50% content of fractions with a particle size of less than 30 nm. After a total processing time of 40 minutes, the semi-finished product was centrifuged without washing.

4 - Both groups of units of the semi-finished product were dried in a VS-20 dryer with hot air at a temperature of 100°C to a residual moisture content of the material of 18%.

5 - Ironing was carried out using a hot press Japsew SR-600 (China) at a temperature of 120°C.

6 - Installation of product nodes was carried out in accordance with the block diagram shown in fig. 3b ("Installation" block).

7 - Heat treatment was carried out on a steam press PM PRIMULA at a temperature of 150°C for 2.5 minutes with moistening of the material to a moisture content of 20%.

For comparison, a women's dress was made with the reproduction of the technological mode of processing a semi-finished product according to a prototype with a full connection of knots.

The table shows the results of a comparison of the totality of the analyzed indicators for samples of women's dresses, made according to the prototype and according to the proposed method for making clothes from linen fabric with differentiation of material properties for nodes combined into groups "H" and "B".

Example 4

For the manufacture of a jacket for a female model, shown in fig. 4a, used suit linen art. 115 with a surface density of 228 g/m ² and an initial hardness of 32.6 mN⋅cm ² . The fabric was processed according to the following technological regime:

1 - Cutting parts according to patterns of basic size-growth 164-92-98 in accordance with GOST 31396-2009.

2 - Sewing a semi-finished product in accordance with the block diagram shown in fig. 4b ("Blank" block). The nodes of the semi-finished product were divided into two groups for different modes of finishing with an anti-crease composition. The main group "O" combined the nodes of the shelves, back and sleeves, which need to be given the greatest effect of wrinkling. The group "P" combined the knots of the headboards and the collar, for which the finishing mode should be selected taking into account the necessary preservation of the rigidity of the material at the level of 23-25 mN⋅cm ² for a high-quality fit of the product.

3 - Both groups of nodes of the semi-finished product were finished with solutions of an anti-creasing composition based on Celluzyme™ at a concentration that provides an indicator of endoglucanase activity in a solution of 100 units/ml, with the addition of complexone Trilon B 2.0 g/l, a buffer mixture of CH ₃ COOH ( 1n) 248.2 ml/l and NaOH (1n) 100 ml/l to provide a pH of 4.5.

For group “O” units, when preparing a solution of an anti-creasing composition, 4 g/l of EH 1050 aqueous polyurethane dispersion with a content of a nanosized dispersed phase of 34±1% was added together with all components. Processing of the semi-finished product was carried out in a washing machine VO-20, the value of the liquid module 10:1, temperature 55°C. After a total processing time of 120 min, the semi-finished product was centrifuged without washing.

For units of group “P”, when preparing a solution of an anti-crease composition, together with all components, 5.2 g / l of a mixture of aqueous polyurethane dispersions EH 1050 with colloidal silicon dioxide was added at a solids mass ratio of 3: 1, which was previously subjected to ultradispersion in a rotary-impulse apparatus until reaching 100% content of fractions with a particle size of less than 30 nm. After a total processing time of 90 minutes, the semi-finished product was centrifuged without washing.

4 - Both groups of units of the semi-finished product were dried in a VS-20 dryer with hot air at a temperature of 100°C to a residual moisture content of the material of 15%.

5 - Ironing was carried out using a hot press Japsew SR-600 (China) at a temperature of 120°C.

6 - Installation of product nodes was carried out in accordance with the block diagram shown in fig. 4b ("Installation" block).

7 - Heat treatment was carried out on a steam press PM PRIMULA at a temperature of 150°C for 4 minutes with moistening of the material to a moisture content of 30%.

For comparison, a women's jacket was made with the reproduction of the technological mode of processing a semi-finished product according to a prototype with a full connection of knots.

The table shows the results of a comparison of the totality of the analyzed indicators for samples of women's dresses made according to the prototype and according to the proposed method for making clothes from linen fabric with differentiation of material properties for nodes combined into groups "O" and "P".

An analysis of the data presented in the table shows that the claimed method is applicable for the manufacture of a wide range of clothing from shirt, dress and suit linen fabrics with improved dry and wet wrinkle resistance, high resistance to repeated cyclic wrinkling while reducing the loss of mechanical strength of the material and technological shrinkage to a level that meets the requirements of GOST 15968-2014 for the quality of linen clothing fabrics with a wrinkle-resistant finish and prevents a decrease in the dimensional parameters of the product regulated by GOST 25294-2003, 25295-2003, 25296-2003 and 30327-2013. Along with a decrease in the number of technological stages of anti-crease finishing and a 1.6-2.4-fold reduction in the total duration of the process, the method provides the possibility of a rational combination of the level of anti-crease imparted to the material and controlled changes in the stiffness parameter of parts to achieve the designed volume-plastic shape of the product, which is the main a condition for creating products with increased consumer demand.

In particular:

1) Non-crease indicators in dry and wet conditions are increased by 1.15-1.45 times in comparison with the results of the prototype. At the same time, both for a product made of shirt fabrics and when using denser dress and suit linen fabrics, the value of the indicators of the total angle of opening of the fold meets the requirements of GOST 15968-2014 for the quality of linen clothing fabrics with an indelible finish.

2) The resistance to repeated cyclic crushing is increased by 1.6-2.1 times, which is due to the increase in the elastic properties of flax fiber - the ratio of the components of irreversible (residual) and slowly reversible deformation is reduced from 4.0-4.6 times compared to the prototype up to 1.03-1.45 times.

3) For the profile according to the prototype type of product - men's shirt - the effectiveness of reducing stiffness according to the invention is 4 times higher than the level of the comparison sample. The range of adjustable decrease in stiffness of the studied range of linen fabrics is from 25.8 to 79.1%. This makes it possible to make the material as flexible as possible in the areas of the greatest crushing effects, along with reaching the required level of stiffness index to obtain clothes of complex three-dimensional silhouette shapes. At the same time, for the materials of the collar, cuffs and straps, not subjected to finishing, a level of rigidity unattainable for the prototype, required for a shirt of a strict business style, was obtained. And this does not exclude the possibility of obtaining products that generally correspond to any other model image, for example, rustic (rustic chic) or country (practicality and versatility).

4) Improving the strength properties of clothing manufactured by the proposed method, demonstrate the data of reducing the loss of breaking load by 3.4-4 times and abrasion resistance by 1.7-3 times compared with the prototype.

5) Of fundamental importance is the result of the delicate impact of cellulases that meet the conditions of the invention, expressed in a decrease in the shrinkage index by 3-7 times relative to the level of the prototype. In the comparison samples, as a result of finishing operations, the shrinkage of the fabric in the semi-finished product is 5.1-8.5%. In this regard, the parameters of the finished product are at least 1 dimensional unit less than the values \u200b\u200bthat are laid down in the patterns of the basic size-growth used for cutting. The greatest deviations are observed in example 1 (men's trousers) in terms of "growth" - by 2 dimensional units.

The absolute value of the shrinkage index according to the invention does not exceed 1.7%, which is easily corrected at the stage of installation of the product components. As a result, the dimensional characteristics of products manufactured by the proposed method fully correspond to the specified parameters of the cut of the parts. Thus, the practical application of the invention will not require any adjustments to the traditional methods of designing clothing models and to the methods for constructing flat drawings (sweeps) of parts to obtain the necessary parameters of the three-dimensional shape of the product.

Claims (7)

1. A method for making clothes from linen fabrics, including cutting out the details of the product and sewing a semi-finished product, finishing the semi-finished product by processing it in a washing machine with the application of an anti-creasing composition and an aqueous polyurethane dispersion, drying, ironing and heat treatment, characterized in that the sewing of the semi-finished product is carried out by preparing separate product nodes, and the installation of product nodes is performed between ironing and heat treatment, finishing of the semi-finished product is carried out with a solution of an anti-crease composition at a temperature of 25-55 ° C for 40-120 minutes, the anti-crease composition contains cellulase in an amount that provides an endoglucanase activity level in a solution of 40-100 units/ml, a complexing agent in the amount of 1.5-2 g/l and a buffer mixture to ensure pH 4.5-6.0 with the addition of an aqueous polyurethane dispersion in the amount of 0.5-1.5 g/l in terms of the main substance, while drying the semi-finished product is carried out at a temperature of 80-100 ° C, and heat treatment is carried out with steam at a temperature of 140-160°C for 2-4 minutes. 2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that cellulase is used with a Henry adsorption constant of 0.02-0.20 l/g and/or 80-100% content of enzyme particles with sizes over 30 nm. 3. The method according to p. 1, characterized in that the polyurethane dispersion is introduced into the solution of the anti-crease composition 30 minutes after the start of finishing the semi-finished product. 4. The method according to p. 1, characterized in that the aqueous polyurethane dispersion is preliminarily subjected to ultradispersion to a particle size of 2-30 nm. 5. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the aqueous polyurethane dispersion additionally contains colloidal silicon dioxide at a solids mass ratio of 3:1–5:1. 6. The method according to p. 5, characterized in that the mixture of aqueous polyurethane dispersion with colloidal silicon dioxide is preliminarily subjected to joint ultradispersion to 50-100% content of fractions with a particle size of less than 30 nm. 7. The method according to p. 1, characterized in that during the installation of the product nodes, the nodes that have not been finished are sewn to the finished nodes.

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