RU2635506C9 - Complex for improved shine and saturation of keratin hair colour - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: pharmacology.

SUBSTANCE: complex includes Maltoolygosyl Glucosyde/Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate components in the amount of 3-5 wt %, Chitoxy 20 in an amount of 1-2 wt %, water-soluble silicone polymer PEG/PPG-15/15 Dimethicone in an amount of 2.5-5 wt %, Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-12, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Palmitate emulsifiers in an amount of 5-10 wt %, Methylchloroisothiazolinone/Methylisothiazolinone preservative in an amount of 0.1-0.2 wt % and water up to 100 wt %.

EFFECT: increased hair saturation and shine, hair structure protection against negative influences.

7 dwg, 1 tbl

Description

The invention relates to the field of cosmetology, in particular for the preparation of the U-Sonic Color System complex used as a component for hair coloring (persistent cream hair dyes, tinting agents, etc.). The complex helps to increase the saturation of color and shine of dyed hair, as well as maintaining the structure of the hair from negative influences in the process of dyeing. The proposed complex contains maltooligosyl glucoside, a hydrogenated starch hydrolysis product, a silicone copolymer of polysiloxane and polyester, chitosan, which is B- (1-4) -2-amino-2-deoxy-D-glycolopolysaccharide, an alloy of nonionic emulsifiers and ethoxylated alcohols with higher fatty alcohols same fractions. The problem solved by the present invention is to increase the saturation of the color and shine of the dyed hair, as well as maintaining the structure of the hair in the process of processing them with coloring cosmetic compositions. The technical result is to obtain a cosmetic emulsion in the form of a composition of components that, in combination, increase the saturation and shine of the hair, and also preserve the hair structure from negative influences, and will continue to be used as an additive to dyeing products (permanent cream hair paints, tinting agents and other).

Consider the structure of the hair and the factors affecting damage to the structure of the hair during their coloring.

Anatomically, the hair consists of a shaft (the visible part protruding above the surface of the skin) and a root located in the thickness of the skin, which ends in a hair follicle.

The hair shaft morphologically (Fig. 1) is the following structure: 12 - medulla, which consists of 1 - α-helix, 2 - protonity, 3 - proteins, 4 - tetramers, 5 - matrix, 6 - microfibrils, 7 - core, 8 - cell membrane complex, 15 - cortex, consisting of fibrous proteins, 13 - para-gel and 14 - ortho-gel and has the nature of a two-phase composite, 16 - cuticle, the outer layer of the hair, which is keratinized cell, consisting of 9 - epi-cuticle, 10 - exo-cuticle 11 - endocuticle.

In FIG. 1 shows the morphological components of the hair and the cell membrane complex of human hair [1].

[2]. По существующим представлениям α-спиральные участки полипептидов упаковываются в тетрамеры (~20

), которые затем переплетаются в микрофибриллы (~70-80

), которые затем превращаются как в аморфные, так и кристаллические области, из которых формируется центральная часть волоса - кортекс [1].The basis of the morphological structure of hair is a protein macromolecule having an α-helix configuration with a period of 9.8

[2]. According to existing ideas, α-helical sections of polypeptides are packed into tetramers (~ 20

), which are then intertwined into microfibrils (~ 70-80

), which then turn into both amorphous and crystalline regions, from which the central part of the hair, the cortex, is formed [1].

The crystalline component of the cortex can reach up to 30%. Outside, the cortex is surrounded by a sheath - a cuticle, which consists of keratinized cells. The proportion of cuticles in the hair is 15-36% [3]. According to electron microscopy, human hair 60-100 microns thick has a scaly layer, the cells of which are located in 6-10 layers [4]. Between keratin scales there is a protein-lipid layer consisting of fat cells, cholesterol, cholesterol sulfate, fatty alcohols.

The main protein that makes up the hair shaft is keratin. In the protein of a human hair - keratin, 18 types of amino acid residues were found. Table 1 presents the amino acids identified in human hair and epidermal keratin of the skin [1].

Among them, cystine is of particular importance. So, due to its ability to form -SS- disulfide bonds that hold keratin molecules firmly together, its presence gives mechanical strength to keratin. On the surface proteins have both carboxyl - COOH and the amino group - NH _2. To crown it all, chains are connected by various types of bonds: hydrogen, ionic and covalent [4]. Keratin content is 85-90%, 10-13% of the weight of the hair is water, lipids and pigment.

Damage to hair due to hydrogen peroxide

Of particular importance is the understanding of the effects on the hair of various reagents contained in cosmetic preparations. One of the most common reagents is hydrogen peroxide. It is used in household and professional preparations of persistent dyeing, in lightening agents, in preparations for perms. In cosmetic products, peroxide concentrations of 3–9% are most common. In the process of lightening, a break of 15-25% of disulfide bonds occurs, as a result of which the hair elasticity is reduced by 25%. In the process of extreme bleaching of hair, 45% S-S bonds break, which leads to a loss of elastic properties of wet hair by approximately 60% [1].

Changes in the hair structure occurring under the influence of a 6% peroxide solution at 30 ° C for 30 minutes were studied by scanning electron microscopy [5] using a JEOL electron scanning microscope. From the obtained data presented in FIG. 2-a and FIG. 2-b, it is seen that the surface of the hair after treatment with hydrogen peroxide (Fig. 2-b) is covered with transverse (and partially longitudinal) folds formed by the cuticle of the hair. At the same time, the cuticle scales bend around the folds, repeating their relief. This result is related to the specifics of the interaction of hydrogen peroxide with hair elements. Under the action of the oxidizing agent, the cortex undergoes contraction (shrinkage) to a greater extent than the denser cuticle, which leads to the formation of folds.

In a micrograph of a human hair: FIG. 2-a - healthy hair, FIG. 2-b - hair treated with hydrogen peroxide for 30 minutes

Damage to hair after applying oxidative (permanent) paint

и способны к достаточно быстрой диффузии. Молекулы с размерами более 10

имеют как низкое значение сорбции, так и невысокий коэффициент диффузии [8]. Это связано с пористостью волос и, соответственно, с различной скоростью диффузии красителей в волосы [9].Three types of hair coloring are distinguished: temporary coloring, semi-permanent coloring and permanent hair coloring. In the latter case, aromatic amines and phenols are used for dyeing [6, 7]. These coloring compounds quickly dye hair in almost all colors, give them fashionable shades, the resulting colors are highly resistant. The best dyeing results are obtained using substances with a small molecular weight and molecular size [6]. Such products include p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-diaminotoluene, 5-amino-o-cresol, some aminophenols and pyrimidines. These compounds of the benzene series, as well as some derivatives of naphthalene, are characterized by a molecule size of not more than 6-8

and capable of sufficiently fast diffusion. Molecules with sizes greater than 10

have both a low sorption value and a low diffusion coefficient [8]. This is due to the porosity of the hair and, accordingly, with different rates of diffusion of dyes into the hair [9].

Among the compounds capable of diffusing into human hair at a sufficient rate, the simplest derivatives of anthraquinone possess the largest molecules. Holmes [8] proved that dye diffusion into bleached hair is faster than untreated hair. This is due to the fact that bleached hair has a damaged hair cuticle and thereby the diffusion of the dye into the hair is facilitated.

The ability to give colored products during the oxidation of certain intermediate products, such as o- and p-aromatic diamines, o- and p-aminophenols and other substituted phenols

Hair dyeing according to the oxidative method involves the formation of a colored compound (dye) directly on the hair in the process of their treatment with a coloring composition. Therefore, the coloring composition (hair dye) consists of several components. Firstly, this is the so-called "primary intermediate", which is para-phenylenediamine, or para-aminophenols, which give colored products under the action of oxidizing agents. The second component is a “modifier”. This component is capable of forming colored compounds only in the presence of primary intermediates. “Modifiers” include meta-aminophenols, substituted phenols and pyrazolones. The oxidizing agent, which is usually hydrogen peroxide, although other compounds are also possible: persulfates, perborates, etc. [6]. In addition, the finished form contains a number of excipients: antioxidants, surfactants, etc., providing high-quality dyeing.

According to published data [10, 11], the oxidation of p-phenylenediamine is a rather complicated process, during which p-benzoquinondiimine (II), p-benzoquinone monoimine (III) and p-benzoquinone (IV) are formed.

Oxidative condensation of (I) with (II), (III) or (IV) leads to the indamine derivatives of types (V) and (VI) [10, 11].

Similarly, various other substituted anilines and phenols can participate in oxidative condensation processes. Thus, para-aminophenols, monohydric and polyhydric phenols, as well as various substituted ones, may be contained in a standard composition for oxidative hair dyeing. When such compositions are oxidized with hydrogen peroxide, a series of oxidative condensation reactions take place with the formation of dyes directly on the hair.

The process of oxidative dyeing of hair is also called "persistent dyeing." The colors formed in this process are distinguished by significant light fastness, resistance to wet treatments and the action of other external factors. This is due to the fact that the relatively small molecules of the components used in the compositions for oxidative dyeing quite easily penetrate the hair, and not only absorbed on its surface. Molecules of colored products formed during oxidation are much larger in size, and this makes it difficult to reverse diffuse from the internal cavities of the hair. Therefore, the desorption of such dyes during hair washing is significantly reduced. This is also facilitated by the fact that dyes formed in the process of oxidative dyeing do not dissolve in water.

Another method of dyeing is the so-called "direct dyeing". This method is also called tinting. The main difference between this method and oxidative dyeing is that the dye is already in the finished composition in the dye composition, and the dyeing process consists in the adsorption of this dye on the hair surface or its diffusion into the hair [7]. When implementing any mechanism, dyeing in this case will be an equilibrium process, and the quality of dyeing will largely depend on the presence of excipients and the conditions of the process. Thus, tinting is fundamentally unstable, and the conditions for dyeing are in a very narrow range: the temperature of the human head and the pH of the paint pH 5-8, as well as dyes should not cause allergic reactions of the body.

The main role in the process of tinting hair dyeing is played, apparently, by the structural features of a particular hair. Dyeing results may also depend on the ethnic origin of the hair. Moreover, the structure of the hair can in a certain way change within the same hair along its length. So, the ends of the hair, as a rule, are more damaged and are characterized by higher porosity than the hair at the base, which leads to differences in dyeability.

Detailed studies have shown that the high dye substantivity to the hair is due to the content of certain functional groups in the molecule structure. This is directly related to the surface nature of the protein substance.

In the compositions of hue dyeing, dyes of the following groups are used: nitro dyes (nitro derivatives of aromatic amines), basic (cationic), dispersed, acidic.

The most popular form of coloring is permanent hair coloring, but it is it that leads to the greatest damage to the hair [12, 13] due to the use of hydrogen peroxide and ammonia, and in the latter case, aromatic amines and phenols are used for dyeing. Due to the use of various brighteners, which, when bleaching hair, partially destroy melanin, this leads to brittleness and fragility of the hair. Studies of changes in the structure of hair under the influence of permanent dyes [13] indicate that when the alkaline base of the paint and hydrogen peroxide are exposed, the hair cuticle swells and the cuticular layer acquires a loose structure.

T. Kutri, L. Rongong [12] studied dyed, bleached and unprocessed hair using optical microscopy, scanning electron microscopy. A study was conducted to determine the electrokinetic potential of the hair and it was found that noticeable changes in surface potentials occur even after relatively soft treatment of natural hair.

Champen [14] conducted a generalized review in the field of studying the mechanical properties of keratin fibers. This review also addressed the issue of changing the mechanical properties of hair during various influences by the determining process.

An indicator of the quality of the hair after dyeing is the healthy appearance of the dyed hair, namely the shine of the hair, the color saturation and the intact cuticle of the keratin of the hair.

Hair shine

Gloss of the surface is due to specular reflection of light occurring simultaneously with diffuse (diffuse) reflection. A quantitative estimate of the surface brightness by an observer is determined by the ratio between the intensities of the specularly and diffusely reflected light. The physical, psychophysical and psychometric foundations of the concept of “surface gloss” are discussed in detail in the report of the ICE [15]. There are both domestic [16] and international standards [17, 18] for surface gloss, as well as instruments for its control [19]. The methods for controlling surface gloss, regulated by the mentioned standards, are reduced to measuring the reflection coefficients of light incident at different angles. Shine is one of the main indicators of hair quality. Currently, a number of methods have been proposed for assessing hair gloss, which include both expert assessments and measuring the mirror component using various instruments. So, by Dow Corning Corp. special equipment was developed that made it possible to unify the lighting and observation conditions [20].

Marcher, Jensen [21] made a number of measurements of the scattering of the mirror component of individual hair fibers. To simulate the reflection and scattering of light by the hair structure, the circuit shown in FIG. 3 [21]. At the same time, to assess the shine of the hair, criteria are necessary that take into account the specifics of light refraction depending on its structure.

In FIG. 3 presents the scattering of light by natural hair:

17 - incident beam; 18 - reflected beam from the surface; 19 - refraction of the beam; 20 - reflection of the beam from the inner surface [2].

In FIG. Figure 3 presents a 17-incident beam that experiences a series of successive reflections and refractions, forming a gloss effect. Cuticle flakes can be modeled by “steps” on the surface, directed from the root of the hair to its end and inclined to the axis. You can distinguish the following ways along which (17) a ray of light incident on the hair passes. Firstly, the incident ray is reflected from the surface of the hair - ray 18. Secondly, the ray is refracted, passes through the hair and exits from the opposite side - ray 19. Thirdly, the ray can penetrate the hair, bounce off the inner surface and exit the sides of the fall are beam 20. All three of these scattering rays are not equally involved in the formation. So, for a healthy pigmented hair, rays 19 and 20 due to the strong absorption of light inside the hair itself do not make a significant contribution to the total light scattering by the hair. The main contribution is made by the primary scattering of the beam 18 from the geometric surface of the hair. At the same time, for gray and optically transparent hair, the rays 19 and 20 are essential for the formation of shine.

Many researchers have determined the characteristics of the distribution of the intensity of the scattered light on the hair. C. Helen, V. Bustard [22] determined the amount of gloss not only from the properties of the hair (hair color and condition of the hair), but also from the direction of the incident light. An assessment was also carried out after hair treatment with a cosmetic preparation, and a gloss index was determined when compared with a control sample.

Known patents No. 2462228, publ. September 27, 2012 [23] and No. 2413499, publ. 03/10/2011 [24] to study the improvement of skin and hair keratin after exposure to oxidative dyes or brighteners. Known methods of using components for preserving the skin when dyeing hair [patent No. 2462228, publ. September 27, 2012], the use of a combination of amino acids and low molecular weight disulfides to improve the sensation on the skin during staining. The disadvantage of this invention is that there is no enhancement of color saturation and shine of dyed hair.

The problem solved by the present invention is to increase the saturation of the color and shine of the dyed hair, as well as maintaining the structure of the hair in the process of processing them with coloring cosmetic compositions.

The technical result is to obtain a cosmetic emulsion in the form of a composition of components that, in combination, increase the saturation and shine of the hair, and also preserve the hair structure from negative influences, and then they will be used as an additive to dyeing products (permanent cream hair paints, tinting agents and etc.).

To solve this problem, a complex of components is used: maltooligosyl glucoside, a hydrogenated starch hydrolysis product, a silicone copolymer of polysiloxane and polyester, B- (1-4) -2-amino-2deoxy-D-glycopolysaccharide, an alloy of nonionic emulsifiers and ethoxylated alcohols with higher fatty alcohols same fractions.

The components of the emulsion solve the complex problem when used in coloring cosmetic formulations, namely, they contribute to enhancing color saturation, shine of the hair and maintaining the structure of the hair during dyeing. The emulsion component Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-12, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Palmitate is an alloy of nonionic emulsifiers and ethoxylated alcohols with higher fatty alcohols of the same fraction.

Emulsifying base is intended for use as a self-emulsifying base and consistency regulator in oil / water systems in the cosmetic industry. Due to the presence of ethoxylated fatty alcohols in the alloy, the complex helps to soften the hair and preserve its structure from negative influences.

The component of the Maltoolygosyl Glucosyde / Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate emulsion, which is part of the complex, helps to moisturize and restore the surface of the hair after its use. Maltoolygosyl Glucosyde / Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate is a new starch-derived saccharide with the main component maltooligosyl glucoside, as well as hydrogenated starch hydrolysis products. It has various properties, such as activation of cells, preservation of cells, prevention of damage to cells during UV irradiation, anti-inflammatory effect and mitigation of the coarsening of the surface of the skin and hair.

When used in cosmetics, it helps moisturize and restore skin and hair. The studies were performed using a scanning electron microscope [Hayashibara Co., LTD 2-3 Syimoishii 1-cyome, Okayama, 700-0907, Japan] [25]. A 50% Maltoolygosyl Glucosyde / Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate solution was applied to damaged hair, and was washed off after 20 minutes. After drying, the hair was photographed using an electron microscope (× 700). The effect of restoring the hair cuticle after treatment with Maltoolygosyl Glucosyde / Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate is quite effective.

In FIG. 4 shows micrographs of damaged and treated hair using a scanning electron microscope (× 700).

In FIG. 4-a depicts damaged hair, FIG. 4-b - damaged hair processed by Maltoolygosyl Glucosyde / Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate [25].

Tests for measuring smoothness of hair showed that when using Maltoolygosyl Glucosyde / Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, damaged hair was restored, became smoother and easier to comb. The component of the emulsion Chitoxy 20 polyethylene glycol ether of chitosan is a derivative of chitin - the result of processing chitin under harsh conditions with an alkali solution, allows replacing the chitin acetyl groups with amino groups. Chitosan is - B- (1-4) -2-amino-2deoxy-D-glycopolysaccharide, i.e. aminopolysaccharide obtained by removing the acetyl group from position C2 in chitin. Chitosan has a high hygroscopicity, because the molecule contains many hydroxyl, amine and other groups. According to this indicator, chitosan is second only to glycerin and surpasses polyethylene glycol and calleriol (high polymer alcohol from pears).

Film-forming properties of chitosan

If you apply a layer of chitosan acetic acid solution on a glass plate and dry it, you can get a transparent film that is relatively good in oxygen and moisture and has certain antistatic properties. The surface resistance of the film is 1.5-5 * 108 Ohm⋅g / sq.cm, which is less than the resistance of the hair at a relative humidity of 85% and is 1.5 * 1013 Ohm⋅g / sq.cm, so this film has the property of preventing adhesion dust, can be used for hair care and protection.

Chitosan - a cationic polysaccharide, can be widely used in cosmetics due to its structure-forming properties. Chitosan carries a strong positive electrostatic charge, which allows it to bind to negatively charged surfaces such as hair and skin.

When using chitosan in hair cosmetics, an important feature is its adsorption on the hair. Chitosan has several times greater water-holding ability compared to low molecular weight compounds used for these purposes as part of cosmetics for hair. Due to the retained water, the electrical conductivity of the hair surface increases, the accumulation of the resulting electrostatic charges is inhibited, and the presence of cationic groups at the same time leads to a strong effect of removing negative charges from the hair surface due to neutralization. As a result of this effect, agglomerates are formed that contribute to enhancing the color saturation of colored hair.

The hair product uses the ability of chitosan to form a protective film on the surface of the hair. Compared to films formed by most synthetic polymers, chitosan films are more stable under conditions of high humidity. Processing hair with chitosan-containing products removes electrostatic charge, gives shine, and improves combing.

PEG / PPG-15/15 Dimethicone water-soluble silicone polymer. Silicones are synthetic polymers that can protect your hair from many environmental factors. Due to the low surface energy, silicones are evenly distributed over the entire length of the hair. In addition, silicones improve distribution and increase the stability of other ingredients of the formulations, causing a synergistic effect. Excellent distribution, high molecular weight and maximum proximity to the hair surface allow silicones to form a stable and uniform film on the entire hair surface, which contributes to the shine of the hair.

Composition of the U-Sonic Color System

Complex production technology,%:

Deionized water up to 100 Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-12, Cetearyl Alcohol, 5-10 Cetyl palmitate Maltoolygosyl Glucosyde / Hydrogenated 3-5 Starch hydrolysate PEG / PPG-15/15 Dimethicone 2.5-5 (polysiloxane and polyester) Hitoxy 20 Chitosan Polyethylene Glycol Ether 1-2 (B- (1-4) -2-amino-2-deoxy-D-glycopolysaccharide) Methylchloroisothiazolinone / 0.1-0.2 Methylisothiazolinone

Production technology

The aqueous phase is prepared with the input of the calculated amount of deionized water and the components of the aqueous phase: Maltoolygosyl Glucosyde / Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate and PEG / PPG-15/15 Dimethicone. Next, heating is carried out to 70-75 ° C.

In parallel, prepare the fat phase. Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-12, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Palmitate are introduced into a special reactor. Next, we carry out heating to 70-75 ° C.

Upon reaching the set temperatures, we mix the fat and water phases, and then emulsify the emulsion using a homogenizer. We emulsify the emulsion for 20 minutes, then turn on the cooling. Upon reaching a cooling emulsion of 50 ° C, we introduce the calculated amount of Chitoxy 20 Chitosan polyethylene glycol ether. And when the temperature reaches 30 ° C, we introduce the preservative Methylchloroisothiazolinone / Methylisothiazolinone

To determine the quality of the shine of the hair, use a spectrocolorimeter. A typical spectrocolorimeter circuit is shown in FIG. 5. The principle of operation of the device is based on the simultaneous measurement of reflection or transmission coefficients in the visible region of the spectrum of 380-720 nm. The mirror component is determined by comparing the spectral distribution of reflection coefficients without a mirror component and with a mirror component.

In FIG. Figure 5 shows a typical spectrocolorimeter scheme based on measuring the reflection or transmission coefficients in the visible spectral region 380-720 nm.

If the studied object is a lock of hair, the sample is located in the window of the integrating sphere and illuminated by diffuse light. Spectrocolorimeter scheme: 21 — light source, 22 — curtain, 23 — sample, 24 — receiver, 25 — waveguide, 26 — light flux from the sample, 27 — diffuse illumination, 28 — spectral analyzer, 29 — microprocessor, 30 — computer. In general, there are various methods of lighting a strand of hair in an integrating sphere. However, due to the pronounced characteristic texture of the strand, reproducible results can be achieved using the Diff / 0 type geometry, in which the angle between the normal to the sample and the direction of registration of the reflected beam is small (usually does not exceed 8 °). A sphere with a diameter of 150 mm is the most common. The inner surface of the integrating sphere is covered with material with strong scattering and high reflectivity: barium sulfate. Further, the spectral dependence of the reflection coefficient is used to automatically calculate color characteristics using the so-called MCO addition functions and the function of a light source without a mirror component and with a mirror component. It is in this way that the color measurements used in these measurements are organized.

Determination of the mirror component (shine) of the hair

According to GOST R 52662-2006 (ISO 7724-261984), the mirror component (ZS) for all wavelengths (A)

where R (λ) _{with zerk sost} is the aperture reflection coefficient with a mirror component;

R (λ) _{without a Mirror sost} - aperture reflectance without specular component.

Accordingly, the spectrocolorimeter is calibrated with a mirror component and without a mirror component and measurements are made on hair samples treated with a cosmetic product.

According to the calculation of color characteristics using, the functions of a light source without a mirror component and with a mirror component, we calculate the following characteristics:

hair gloss assessment with the U-Sonic Color System complex;

cosmetic coloring composition with the complex U-Sonic Color System;

determination of hair gloss ΔY gloss, by increasing the proportion of surface reflection of light.

In FIG. 6 is a graph of diffuse reflection spectra of colored hair with a mirror component and without a mirror component. The composition of the cosmetic coloring agent includes the U-Sonic Color System complex.

In FIG. Figure 6 shows the diffuse reflection spectra of colored hair in black tone with the U-Sonic Color System complex:

solid line of the reflection spectrum - with a mirror component,

the dashed line of the reflection spectrum - without a mirror component,

Y without zerk. sost = 1.72, Y zerk. sost = 2.45,

ΔY = 2.45-1.72 = 0.73.

The percentage of surface reflection is 29.7%. Thus, after staining with oxidative dye using the U-Sonic Color System complex, hair shine is enhanced by about 30%. For comparison, the gloss of hair dyed with a cosmetic coloring agent was assessed, with an identical composition but not containing the U-Sonic Color System complex.

In FIG. 7 is a graph of diffuse reflection spectra of colored hair with a mirror component and without a mirror component. The composition of the cosmetic coloring agent does NOT include the U-Sonic Color System complex.

In FIG. 7 shows the spectra of diffuse reflection of colored hair in a black tone without the U-Sonic Color System complex:

solid line of the reflection spectrum - with a mirror component,

the dashed line of the reflection spectrum - without a mirror component,

determination of hair gloss ΔY gloss, by increasing the proportion of surface reflection of light,

Y without zerk. sost = 1.72 Y zerk. sost = 1.97,

ΔY = 1.97-1.62 = 0.35.

The percentage of surface reflection is 17.7% when stained with a cosmetic coloring compound without this complex.

The use of the U-Sonic Color System complex in cosmetic hair dyes enhances the shine of hair.

Color difference in hair color saturation

The measured diffuse reflection spectra for samples of colored hair with the U-Sonic Color System complex and without this complex determine the color difference by the color saturation of the hair.

Cosmetic coloring composition with a complex of U-Sonic Color System. The color saturation in the stained sample with the U-Sonic Color System complex is S = 9.214.

For comparison, the saturation of the color of the hair dyed with a cosmetic dye, with an identical composition, but not containing the U-Sonic Color System complex, was evaluated.

The saturation of the color of hair dyed with the same coloring composition, but without this complex, is S = 1.832.

The use of the U-Sonic Color System complex in cosmetic hair dyes helps to increase the saturation of hair color.

Thus, it was experimentally determined that the introduction of the U-Sonic Color System complex in hair dye products increases the color saturation and shine of dyed hair, and also preserves the hair structure from negative influences during hair dyeing.

46 questionnaires of respondents aged 30 to 60 were processed. The standard scheme was used, the number of respondents meets the criterion of representativeness. Used oxidizing paint Concept 1 - standard and 2 - using the complex U-Sonic Color System. Each of the respondents evaluated visual sensations by three indicators after hair dyeing:

1) color and shine of hair;

2) the condition of the hair after dyeing (dryness, brittleness or smooth, not brittle hair);

3) ease of combing, silkiness.

Testing was anonymous, each respondent received an oxidizing paint kit in the same package.

The assessment was carried out on a 4-point system. All paints had the same ingredient composition, the Concept paint was taken as the basis.

Key Results

Most of the respondents rated one of the two variants of the samples made with the U-Sonic Color System complex. Respondents noted the rich color and shine of the hair with the U-Sonic Color System 2-3 complex. The condition of the hair improved after dyeing with paint, which includes the U-Sonic Color System complex, is noted: the hair has a well-groomed appearance, smooth, not brittle and easy to comb.

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25. Hayashibara Co., LTD 2-3 Syimoishii 1-cyome, Okayama, 700-0907, Japan.

Claims (2)

A complex for enhancing shine and color saturation of keratin hair, including the components Maltoolygosyl Glucosyde / Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate and Chitoxy 20, water-soluble silicone polymer PEG / PPG-15/15 Dimethicone, emulsifiers Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteareth-20, Ceteylth-20, Ceteyl Palmitate, a preservative of Methylchloroisothiazolinone / Methylisothiazolinone and water, in the following ratio, wt. %: Maltoolygosyl Glucosyde / Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate 3-5 Hitoxy 20 1-2 PEG / PPG-15/15 Dimethicone 2,5-5 Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-12, 5-10 Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Palmitate Methylchloroisothiazolinone / Methylisothiazolinone 0.1-0.2 Deionized water Up to 100

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